James Halliday Interactive Wine Companion 1999

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work makAll play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All HBAM2016AUG95 Pro 3.0 All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a goodCopyright 1984-1997 Claris Corporation and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. years during peter draper's brief tenure wines gilbert quantities vintage mamre brook split itsel@ botrytis-infected@ distinctly@ first sauvignon blanc having decided sauvignon blanc hunter resisted temptation chardonnay grapes grown loamy willunga ninth island previous tasmania overwhelmingly@ produced hectares estate plantings pokolbin@ received bronze medal zealand sourced vineyards victoria always containing falcon vineyard selected potential produc@ abbey vale's successful wines vines@ HBAM3016AUG95@ abbey river adams adelaide alkoomi saints allan allan scott allandale allanmere allinda amberley amberley estate amery andrew andrew garrett andrew harris angove's apsley apsley gorge aquila aquila estate ariki arlewood arlewood estate arrowfield arthurs arthurs creek ashbrook ashbrook estate ashtonD ashton hillsD ashwell ashwell vineyards askerne rangi My Wine 24/7/98 24/7/98 4/7/98 24/7/98 augustine auldstone austin's austin's barrabool avalon avalon vineyard avoca babich baileys mountain baldivis baldivis estate balgownie balnaves bannockburn barossa barossa settlers barossa valley estate barrabool barratt barrington barrington estate barry barwang basedow bassb phillipb beckett's beckett's beckworth bellingham beresford best's bethany bianchet bimbadgen bimbadgen estate bindi birdwood birdwood estate black black ridge blackjack blass bleasdale bloodwood bloodwood estate pyrenees pyrenees estate boneo boneo plains bortoli boston boston botobolar bowenh bowen estateh boynton's boynton's bright brand'sl brand's lairal brangayne brangayne orange bream bream creek breeze bremerton briagolong briagolong estate brianianianianianianianianbrianbrianbrianian brian brian barry briar briar ridge bridgewater bridgewater bright brindabellao brindabella hillso britannia britannia falls broke broke estate brokenwood brook brookfields brooklandt brookland valleyt brothersv brownv brown brothersv browns browns padthaway bruer bullers bullers bullers bullers calliope burge{ burge family{ buring burramurra cairnbrae calais calais estates calliope cambewarra cambewarra estate campbells canadoro canobolas-smith clairault jaffa mentelle capel capel capercaillie carabooda carabooda estate carbunup carbunup estate casella cassegrain castle castle castle estate catherine catherine cellars cellier cellier chain chain ponds chalice chancellor chandon chapel chapel chard chard charles charles cimicky charles melton charles sturt charles sturt university charley charley brothers chateau chateau leamon chateau chateau tahbilk chatsfield chestnut chestnut grove chifney chittering chittering estate ciavarella cimicky clair clair clairault clare clarendon clarendon hills clearview clearview estate cleveland cliff cliff house clifford clifford clifton clifton clonakilla clare clouds cloudy cloudy clover clover cobaw cobaw ridge cockfighter's cockfighter's ghost cofield coldstream coldstream hills collards conders conders constable constable hershon conti coolangatta coolangatta estate coombend coonawarra coonawarra coopers coopers creek cooter cope-williams corbans coriole corner cottage covell covell estate cowra cowra estate crabtree crabtree watervale craig craig craiglee craigmoor cranswick cranswick estate crawford crawford river creek cross cross roads cruickshank-callatoo cullen currency currency creek d'arenberg dalfarras dalrymple dalwhinnie daniel daniel schuster darling darling estate darling darlington darlington estate david david traeger bortoli gyffarde deakin deakin estate delatite delegat's demondrille dennis deredcliffe derwent derwent estate devil's devil's diamond diamond valley domaine domaine chandon domaine chandon donnelly donnelly river doole doonkuna doonkuna estate dowie dowie doole downs drayton drayton's driftwood driftwood estate dromana dromana estate river drylands dulcinea duncan duncan estate eastern eastern peake elderton eldredge elgee elgee eling eling forest elsewhere elsewhere vineyard enough eppalock eppalock ridge valley estateh estate estate estates eurunderee eurunderee flats evans evans family evans eyton-on-yarra fairhall fairhall downs estate falls family{ farrell's farrell's limestone creek felix fergusson fermoy fermoy estate estate field fields fishburn fishburn o'keefe flats flight folly forest forrest forrest estate creek foxes foxes island framingham francis frankland frankland estate fraser freycinet fyffe fyffe field galafrey galah galah garden garden gully garrett gembrook gembrook geoff geoff merrill geoff weaver ghost ghost giaconda gibbston gibbston valley giesen giesen estate gilbert gillan gisborne gladstone glenara glenayr glenmark gloucester gloucester ridge golders goldwater goldwater estate goona goona warra gorge goundrey gralyn gramp granite grant grant burge great greenhough greenhough vineyard grosset grove grove gully estate gyffarde hackett hallett hamelin hamelin hamilton hanging hanging hanson happs hardys harewood harewood estate harrier harrier harris harwood haselgrove ariki hawkesbridge hawley hawley vineyard hayward's hayward's whitehead creek heemskerk heggies heights helen helena helm's henschke heritage heritage wines hermitage hermitage herons herons flight hershon hickinbotham highbank highfield highfield estate highland highland heritage hill-smith hill-smith estate hillsD hillstowe hollick hollyclare holmes holmes brothers homme honeytree honeytree estate horrocks hotham hotham valley houghton house howard howard huberts hamilton hungerford hungerford hunter hunter ridge hunter's huntington huntington estate hurtle huthlee huthlee estate idyll inglewood ingoldby isabel isabel estate island jackson jackson estate jackson's jackson's jaffa james brook jardee jasper jasper jenke barry jingalla johanneshof johanneshof cellars kaesler kairanga kangarilla kangarilla kangaroo kangaroo island vines karina seppelt karrivale karriview katnook katnook estate amery kellybrook kemblefield kemblefield estate kidman killawarra killeen killerby crawford kindale kings kings creek kingston kingston estate kingtree kinvarra kinvarra estate knappstein knight knight granite hills kominos koppamurra kraanwood krondorf kumeu kumeu river kyeema kyeema estate lairal barrington breeze chalice lake's lake's folly lalla lalla gully lamont langmeil laurel laurel lauren lauren brook lawson lawson lawsons lawsons hills leamon leasingham leconfield leeuwin leeuwin estate lehmann lengs lengs cooter lennards lennards brook estate lenswood lenswood vineyards lenton lenton estate buring leonards liebichwein lillydale lillypilly lillypilly estate limestone lincoln lindemans linden linden estate lintz lintz estate lirralirra little's gully longleat family lubiana madew maglieri ridge majella malcolm malcolm creek mania margrain maria marienberg mariners mariners maritime maritime estate rattray marribrook marsh marsh estate martinborough martinborough vineyard mary's marybrook marybrook estate massoni massoni creek matariki matawhero matilda's matilda's meadow matthias matua matua valley maxwell mcalister mcdonald mcguigan mcguigan brothers mcwilliam's mcwilliam's mount pleasant meadow meadowbank meerea meerea melton mentelle merlen merricks merricks estate merrill merrivale mildara millinup millinup estate mills mills millton mintaro miramar miranda miranda rovalley estate mission mitchell mitchelton monichino montana montrose moondah moondah moondah brook moorilla moorilla estate moorooduc moorooduc estate morningside mornington mornington estate morris morton morton estate brothers mount mount avoca mount beckworth mount gisborne mount helen mount horrocks mount hurtle mount mount mount prior mount riley mountadam mountain mountford moutere moutere hills house muirlea muirlea murdoch murdoch james estate murrindindi narkoojee nautilus nepenthe nepenthe vineyards nesbit neudorf ngatarawa nicholson nicholson river nobilo normans notley notley gorge o'keefe oakridge oakridge estate oakvale okahu okahu estate river omaka omaka springs omihi omihi hills orange orlando osborns osborns harwood osicka padthaway padthaway estate palliser palliser estate palmara palmers panorama paracombe paradise paradise enough paringa paringa estate parker parker coonawarra estate passing passing clouds pattersons conti osicka paulett peake pegasus pegasus pendarves pendarves estate penfolds penley penley estate pepper pepper pepper pertaringa petaluma peter peter lehmann peter rumball peterson peterson house petersons pewsey pewsey phillipb phillip island phillip island vineyard picardy piccadilly piccadilly fields pierro piesse piesse brook pikes pipers pipers brook pirramimma pizzini plains plantagenet pleasant pleasant valley plunkett ponder ponder estate ponds poole's poole's poplar poplar phillip estate portree preston preston primo primo estate prior providence punters punters corner pyrenees queen queen adelaide quelltaler rangi rattray ravenswood ravenswood ray-monde estate redbank redgate redman drayton reilly's reilly's cottage renmano reynell reynolds reynolds yarraman ribbon ribbon richard richard hamilton richmond richmond richmond grove ridge riley rimfire rippon rippon vineyard rivendell river riverina riverina wines riverside roads robinsons robinsons family robinvale rochecombe rochford rockford rocklea rocklea vineyard rongopai rosabrook rosabrook estate rosebank rosebank estate rosemount rosemount rosemount estate rossetto rothbury rothbury estate rotherhythe rouge rouge homme rovalley rumball rymill kidman wines sacred sacred saddlers saddlers creek saint saint clair estate saints salisbury salisbury estate salitage saltram hills sandalford sandihurst sandihurst wines sandstone scarborough scarpantoni scarpantoni estatestate scarpantoni estate schuster scotchmans scotchmans scott seaview seifried seifried estate selaks selaks drylands estate seldom seldom seppelt seppelt great western seresin seresin estate serventy settlers sevenhill sevenhill cellars seville seville estate shantell smith shottesbrooke simon simon hackett skillogalee smithithZ smithsmith smith smithbrook soljans sorrenberg spencer spencer spencer estate spring spring springs francis hallett helena estate huberts leonards mary's matthias nesbit stanley stanley brothers stanton stanton killeen station stefano stefano lubiana steins stephen stephen sterling sterling heights stevens stone stone ridge stoney stoney vineyard stonier'snier'sier's stonier's stonyridge stringy stringy stumpy stumpy gully sturt summerfield sutherland t'gallant tahbilk taltarni talunga tamburlaine tarrawarra tatachilla taylor taylors kairanga mania estate estate temple temple bruer terrace terrace thistle thistle adams gramp tingle-wood tipperary tipperary tipperary tollana torbreck torlesse traeger trentham trentham estate trinity trinity tuck's tuck's ridge tulloch turkey turkey tyrrell's university valleyt vasse vasse felix vavasour vidal vidal estate villa villa maria vines vineyard vineyards violet violet virage virgin virgin hills estate voyager voyager estate waipara waipara springs waipara springs wines wairau wairau river walker walker estate walnut walnut ridge wandin wandin valley wandin valley estate waninga wantirna wantirna estate warra warramate warramate warrenmang water water wheel watervale weaver wellington wendouree brook westend western westfield wharncliffe wheel whitehaven whitehead wignalls wilderness wilderness estate wildwood taylor willespie willow willow willow creek wilson wilton wilton estate windy windy ridge wines winstead wirilda wirilda creek wirra wirra wirra wither wither hills blass woodonga woodonga woodstock woody woody wyndham wyndham estate wynns wynns coonawarra estate xanadu yaldara yalumba yanwirra yarra yarra yarra yarra ridge yarra valley hills yarra yarra yarra yering yarrabank yarraman yellowglen yering yering station yeringberg estate 000-case 1-hectare 1.3-hectare 1.5-hectare 1.5-litre 1.8-metre 10-hectare 100-hectare 100-point 100-year-old 10000 101-year-old 11-hectare 11.95 12-14 12-18 12-hectare 12-month 14-hectare 145-year-old 15-year-old 150th 16.25 18-20 18-year-old 180-hectareU 1815-1890 1850s 1860s 1870K 1880s 19.50 1920K 1920s 1934w 1940s 1950s 1955X 1960O 1960s 1960s 1962w 1970w 1970s 1971-72 1980s 1983^ 1985U 1986N 1990P 1990'sw 1990s 1991K 1993B marked first hastings valley release semillon 1994X produced benchmark tasmania 1994-95 1994/95 1995X marked first single-vineyard estate-grown vintage first release unwooded chardonnay first vintage under label produced 1996t marked fifth release varietal merlot capel marked transition regime yering outstanding vintage wellington/wairarapa debut vintage produced grapes grown marked first cottage block marlborough sauvignon first varietal sauvignon blanc produced 1998v 19th-century 2-hectare 2.5-hectare 20-day 20-year 20-year-old 21-hectare 21-year-old 25-hectare 25-year-old 3.5-hectare 30-year-old 4-hectare 4-tonne 40-year-old 400-500 44-year-old 45-year-old 5-hectare 5-hectare 5.2-hectare 50/50 500-600 50thK 6-hectare 6-litre 6.5-hectare 6.6-hectare 60-strong 60-year 60-year-old abbey@ tine@ bindi@ brian bullers cellars@ clair coonawarra currency@ domaine chandon estate farrell's limestone creek@ ghost estate@ hermitage road@ honeytree@ jane@ kingston@ family@ mcdonald@ moondah moutere hills@ osborns@ pepper phillip estate@ richmond rosemount scarpantoni estate smith stonier's tipperary vidal estate@ warramate blass@ 1960s marked first cottage block marlborough sauvignon 5-hectare WINE STYLE 5-hectare 99-year-old cabernet sauvignon produced hectares vines@ blend cabernet sauvignon mclaren blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc blend cabernet sauvignon merlot which spends blend cabernet sauvignon merlot blend great years going early blend cabernet sauvignon malbec cabernet franc merl@ blend grenache shiraz vintage trophy@ blend riesling late-picked gewurztraminer classic hunter semillon direct unwooded style continuation brand extension nucleus genuine reserve limited quantities built 65-year-old 70-strong 70-year 75-strong 75-year-old 750-ml 77-year-old 99-year-old 99-year-old cabernet sauvignon produced hectares vines estate-grown redbrook vineyard using estate-produced petaluma's hanlins merlot hawke's sophisticated winemaking blend shiraz merlot cabernet sauvignon blend merlot malbec cabernet franc drawn blend cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet blend cabernet sauvignon shiraz deriving blend chardonnay pinot which blend chardonnay pinot which spends blend semillon sauvignon blanc barrel- blend shiraz cabernet sauvignon sourced blend goulburn valley mclaren coonawa blend cabernet sauvignon shiraz merlot blend cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet blend cabernet sauvignon mclaren blend padthaway mclaren cowra fruit blend sauvignon blanc semillon blend barossa valley-grown material rowland blend cabernet sauvignon shiraz merlot blend cabernet sauvignon shiraz drawn blend merlot cabernet sauvignon cabernet blend pinot chardonnay coming mclar blend pinot chardonnay varies slightl blend sauvignon blanc semillon partly barrel- blend semillon chardonnay sauvignon blanc blend sauvignon blanc semillon predominantly blend cabernet sauvignon merlot coming blend cabernet sauvignon merlot which spends blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc blend cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet blend cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet franc blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet blend cabernet sauvignon merlot matured blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc blend merlot malbec cabernet franc blend semillon sauvignon blanc fermented blend semillon sauvignon blanc blend semillon fermented months blend shiraz malbec hectares blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc blend cabernet sauvignon merlot matured blend cabernet sauvignon merlot separately blend cabernet sauvignon merlot which spends blend cabernet sauvignon merlot which spends blend mclaren goulburn valley doubtless blend cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet blend shiraz cabernet sauvignon sourced blend cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc blend cabernet sauvignon merlot grown blend cabernet sauvignon merlot matured blend cabernet sauvignon margaret river blend sauvignon blanc semillon partially blend sauvignon blanc semillon sourced blend semillon sauvignon blanc portion blend shiraz malbec rigid fruit blend shiraz mourvedre brady blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc blend cabernet sauvignon merlot blend cabernet sauvignon merlot grown blend cabernet sauvignon merlot predominantly blend cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet blend chardonnay semillon produced blend mclaren coonawarra grapes blend pinot chardonnay pinot meuni blend sauvignon blanc semillon stainless blend cabernet sauvignon merlot blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet blend sauvignon blanc semillon barrel-ferment blend semillon sauvignon blanc blend semillon sauvignon blanc which performe blend cabernet sauvignon merlot blend about cabernet sauvignon merlot which blend great years going early blend approximately cabernet sauvignon shiraz blend around cabernet sauvignon grown mulberrc blend barossa-grown shiraz cabernet sauvignon cabernet blend cabernet shiraz little merlot added blend cabernet merlot malbec cabernet franc which blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc which blend cabernet sauvignon merlot drawn blend cabernet sauvignon merlot first blend cabernet sauvignon merlot grown charles blend cabernet sauvignon merlot grown villa blend cabernet sauvignon merlot roughly correspondi blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc merlot blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc merlot blend cabernet sauvignon dominant merlot blend cabernet sauvignon malbec cabernet franc blend cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet franc blend cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet franc blend cabernet sauvignon shiraz merlot cabernet blend cabernet sauvignon syrah merlot cabernet blend cabernet sauvignon typically merlot typica blend chardonnay semillon grown mclare blend chenin blanc semillon first released blend equal portions cabernet sauvignon malbec blend estate-grown shiraz cabernet sauvignon which blend estate-grown shiraz cabernet sauvignon merlot blend gippsland yarra valley grapes produced blend gisborne martinborough sauvignon blanc blend grapes grown lower hunter valley orang blend grapes sourced victoria coonawarra altho blend grenache shiraz vintage trophy blend highly botrytised riesling gewurztraminer blend marlborough kauwhata hawke's grapes blend mclaren coonawarra cabernet matured blend mclaren hunter shiraz which demonstrates blend mclaren padthaway barossa riverland blend merlot cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc blend mount barker margaret river grapes which blend pinot chardonnay estate-grown blend pinot chardonnay consultancy blend pinot chardonnay principally sourced blend pinot chardonnay sourced regio blend pinot chardonnay which spends years blend predominantly cabernet sauvignon includi blend predominantly semillon barossa valley blend riesling late-picked gewurztraminer blend semillon chardonnay portion barrel-ferm blend semillon sauvignon blanc which deliberatel blend semillon grown geelong estate blend semillon sauvignon blanc chardonnay blend shiraz grown angove's anchorage nanya blend shiraz touriga durif principally drawn blend valley-sourced cabernet shiraz brand extension chais clarendon extend fiefdo brilliant piece label design introduced cellar-door special extraordinary challenging high-quality blend varieties chardonnay-dominant blend traditional hunter-style chardonnay-predomina style given months classic hunter semillon large measure reflecting classic hunter semillon direct unwooded style classic riesling which region classic style illustrious record classic without question foremost example clean well-made which nonetheless raises question clean well-made varietal character introduc cleverly named blend cabernet sauvignon grown orange cocktail blend favoured margaret complex blend which shows miranda/rovalley complex fermented french barriques complex which would expect complex which bronze medal winner confidently showing range consistent which testament winemaking consistently excellent region known continuation brand extension nucleus conventionally which relies proposition convincing celebrate commissioning marlb coonawarra cabernet sauvignon which curiously named somewhat curiously packaged non-vintag debut release which lends strong support deliberately lighter style predominantly cabernet deluxe version stevens shiraz produced distinguished which thoroughly deserves reserve famous label zealand relatively history difficult variety macedon region finer crisper elegant watervale french hybrid cross which strongly resistant downy fruit-driven style matured months older full-blown style which indicates barrel-fer genuine reserve limited quantities built great achievement landmark handful wines grape which normally high-quality riesling coming amberley district highly unusual release blend cabernet sauvignon hugely underrated which suffered someth junior brother classic clare weight label change sauvignon blanc sauvignon blanc semil label conjured moment label which australia's answer california's bonny label startling innovative design found light fresh uncomplicated pinot consumed young lillypilly specialty botrytised muscats logical counterpart chardonnay sense questions still remain answered about lovely during peter draper's brief tenure lower-priced version partially barrel-fermented french magnificent first released commemorat cases produced sourced omihi hills vineyard modest enough price robert fiumara modest no-frills sauvignon blanc discipline interesting blend cabernet sauvignon shiraz merlot interesting varietal delatite removed interesting which received considerable interesting strong regional identity unusual blend cabernet franc multi-district blend manner krondorf alway multi-region blend sourced barossa clare vallM blend gisborne marlborough grapes barrel-fe addition knappstein range interestin lovely during peter draper's brief tenure rather bizarre terms design label which sugg@ superbly packaged presented premium range pleasant which indicates blend relatively deredcliffe which hitherto slightly rustic varietal character@ stylish restrained style using techniques@ vertical tasting vintages going class grapes sourced various which acquired status removed from@ which reflects vintage exceptional pedigree deserved reputation abundance@ achievement adjacent after mercifully brief quite disastrous flirtation rather bizarre terms design label which arrival among dazzling hungerford labels arrival earlier vintages being sauvigno arrival scene destined outst direction cross roads produced standard direction knight granite hills being blend edition glenara range showing adelaide label which almost label selaks which debut label babich dropping blanc label geoff merrill range particular product introduced vintage inevita range admit strong allergic reactio super-premium release alkoomi first super-premium grant burge presented superbly packaged presented premium range varietal release mcwilliam's mount pleasant venture angove's which hitherto produced almosB venture temple bruer robert crabtree picking popula no-frills ever-reliable unwooded marlborough sauvignon non-vintage blend pinot chardonnay grown non-vintage blend pinot chardonnay typically one-off release grapes hand-picked piercingly no-frills marlborough style consisten pinot dominant typically around blend chardonv pleasant direct style wonder whether there eithe pleasant no-frills style which honoured pleasant rose-style early-picked cabernet sauvig pleasant which indicates blend pleasant which indicates blend pleasant which demonstrates virtues powerful concentrated strongly structured which powerful fruit-driven style which relies neither premium label introduced vintage named quiet performer cabernet sauvignon estate-grown quite delicious blend grenache range vintages available cellar showing grape variety brought northeast victoria around grape variety originally rhone valley relatively addition lindeman range relatively arrival chittering which traditionally relatively arrival scene wignalls which relatively direction bowen estate intriguingly relatively direction domaine chandon relatively deredcliffe which hitherto relatively recent arrival scene brand's relatively recent introduction penfolds range firstP relatively unusual blend cabernet sauvignon relatively unusual style hawke's which normally generous bottle-developed which predates deliberately alister purbrick unspecified varieties seemingly includi silver medal winner class liquorland similar fruit standard draycott shiraz simple well-made direct style showing excessi single vineyard sauvignon blanc which entirely barrel-f single vineyard produced grapes grown single-vineyard produced estate established slight valley region origin slightly rustic varietal character small quantity grapes harvested hectares solid class reserve solidly structured drawn vineyards somewhat amorphous blend grapes including pinot special bottling named memory simon hackett's special bottling limited quantities varietal merlot special limited release selected tasmanian merchan special release marked ribbon around special selection oldest plantings shiraz special selection pinot which produced winewise small makers competition performer sydney international compe striking first-up hardy winemaking stamp strikingly packaged blend semillon sauvignon blanc stylish restrained style using techniques super-premium blend shiraz barossa valley superbly balanced constructed muscat distinctly surprise packet valley which performed excep surprise performer score sheet least testament all-round winemaking skills schmi throw-back oceans zealand white tight classic mount barker riesling slow-developing produc totally delicious which villa maria's traditional reasonably full-bodied barossa semillon style watervale riesling likewise vicke typically concentrated rutherglen shiraz terms fruit variable blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc variable blend chardonnay semillon years variable blend merlot predominant followed caberne vertical tasting vintages going cleverly sourced entirely contract-gro competently barrel-fermented matured complex blend pinot chardonnay sourced high-flavoured style always released early interesting which parallels interesting which years well-made fermentation commenced stainle voluptuous early-developing barossa-style which stood famous vintage immediately forev utterly distinctive style strong europ intermittently colin preece appreciated sydney market which ensures consistently quality years tight exceptional unusual quality grapes class grapes sourced various unusually consistent style which invariably attracted favourable comment mentelle portfolio which support denmark/alban which weight argument pemberton which attests ability orange region which bears testimony common ownership which bobbed great australian shiraz which burst winning trophy which deserves reserve which marvell which distinguished itself score sheet least which nothing answer eternal question which forces drink words always which excels itself which acquired status removed which attracted great attention partly which largely responsible phenomenal which consistently impressed gaining power which evolved dramatically years which given tremendous pleasure years which occasions astonishingl which propelled hallett international which surged prominence recent years which testament production skills which produced every vintage those which sometimes malbec sometimes which sometimes plain sometimes quite brilliant which first appearance grapes which picks where shiraz leaves which reflects vintage which reflects hay's three years study germany which reflects white winemaking skills which seems somewhat unusual history which seems reflect varying conditions which shows excellent fruit character littl which shows glenara situated warmest which shows cabernets castle which shows hazards vintage generalisations which shows limitation symbol ratib which simultaneously underlines consistency which serve intensify debate times illustrious history distinguished pedigree going proud history numbering among vintage exceptional pedigree deserved reputation extraordinary pedigree 60-year histo winemaking force world's leading abandoned abbey abbott's abbreviated abbruzzi ability aboriginal abound about above above-average absence absent absinent absolute absolutely absolutely extraordinary labelling abstinent abundance abundant abutting accelerating accentG accept acceptable acceptance accepted accessibility accessible accident acclaim accolade accolades accommodate accompanied accompanying accomplished accorded according accordingly account accounting accounts accumulate accumulated accumulation accusation accuse achieve achieved achieved immediate bortoli swept achievement achievement achieves achieving acidic acidityD ackland acknowledged_ acknowledged zealand classic produced acquired acquired roseworthy agricultural college roseworth acquisition acre{ acreages acres across acted active activities activity actually adams adddition added added another medal incredibly distinguished adding addition additional address adelaide adherence adjacent adjacent adjoining adjoins adjustment admirable admirably admirer admiti admittedly admitting adopted adoption adopts adorned advantage adverse advertiser advice advocate aerobic affair affected affecting affixed afield afraid africa after after formidable indeed intimidating comes after mercifully brief quite disastrous flirtation after excellent wines produced between quality after peregrination settled nelson again again produced hectares estate-grown grapes against age-worthy agedc aged-vintage ageing agency agesD ageworthy agglomerate aggressive agree agreement agricultural agriculture ahead aimed aiming air-dried airways alain^ alambie mccorkindale shown particular flair handling alarmingly albeitw albert alchemy alcoholi aldehyde aldehydes aldridge alexander alike alister alkoomi alkoomi hectares sauvignon blanc ashbrook estate wines estate-grown semill t'gallant wines feature brilliant packaging wines gilbert quantities wines gilbert quantities all-important all-powerfulX all-round all-time allan allandale allanmere allanmere vineyards long-term allergic allied allier alliers allocationH allow_ allowed allowing allows alluvial almostB almost hectares estate plantings huber almost diametrically opposed style collards rothes almuth wines gilbert quantities almuth although although label totally specific matter always full-blown american australian classic dating deriving extraordinarily impressive given price perha@ interesting because similar prem@ unashamedly commercial sourced gisborne predomi@ andrew nothing economical label another estate-grown produced under palmer labe@ another string bethany wines unde@ applied arguably interesting quite almuth alone along along cabernet sauvignon which really establis alongside} alreadyP alsace alsatian alsoX first appearance direct reflection alter altering alternative althoughi although although easiest vintages kellybrook although precise source state although labelled cabernet merlot although simply labelled cabernet sauvignon usually although would vigorously dispute doubt although chais clarendon label strictly brand although front label reference although front label unoaked although label totally specific matter although label makes mention stephen george altitude altitudes altogether alwaysD always intense striking which right always delicate style typified always full-blown always-rich alwyn amadeus amadeus second christian mozart amadio amadios amalgam amarone amass amassed amazing amazingly amberley amberley's ambient ambition ameliorate amenable americanM american among amongst amorphous amount amounting amounts amphitheatre amphitheatre/bowl ample amused almost startlingly different style normally always interesting grapes typica} approximately equal blend barossa valley coonawarr attractive irrigated beverford vineyard attractive family style though australian classic dating deriving early-ripening variety typically picked elegant demonstration capacity marlborough elegant which performed shows elegantly packaged employing ancient dumbbell enigmatic standards perversely enormously powerful which tasted blind seems entirely estate-grown blend descending order cabern estate-grown bordeaux blend percentage cabern estate-grown highest quality which since estate-grown which achieved considerable succes exceptionally complex which really heigh exceptionally concentrated powerful fully reflec exceptionally price average extension lenswood range wines impressiv extraordinarily impressive given price perha extraordinarily powerful complex extraordinary pinot grown extremely which deservedly medal extremely complex oaked style sauvignon blanc extremely full-blown style which extremely well-made luscious style which immensely distinguished terms history imperious which spent awesome impressive debut hectares estate plantings impressive early release full-frontal regional style interesting example changes underway penfolds interesting style given treatment delib interesting unwooded varietal blend which first interesting which given brief contact interesting because similar interesting pinot chardonnay interesting informed without filtrati interesting released market interesting which padthaway component interesting which blend sauvignon blanc interesting which well-enough which interesting which reflects changing attitudes within interesting which shows achieved intermittent release d'arenberg years opulent barrel-fermented style which almost invariably opulently flavoured showing range winema outstanding hawke's sauvignon blanc picked outstanding which belief ultra-scarce single barrel bottles selection unashamedly commercial sourced gisborne predomi unashamedly commercial which modestly priced unoaked blend barossa valley chenin blanc semillon unspecified blend chenin blanc riesl unusual blend least reflecting unusual labelling exercise reserve included unusual zealand scheme things being anaerobic analysis ancestor ancestral ancestry anchorage anchored anchored yarra valley reserve pinot ancient and/orB anderson andrew andrew nothing economical label angeles angelus angove'sB anita annie's anniversaryK announced announcement annual anonymity another another blockbuster although awe-inspiring another classic marlborough skill discipl another distinguished cool-climate lenswood another estate-grown produced under palmer another excellent under mariners label another extremely distinguished goldwater estate another estate-grown mount langi ghiran perha another barossa reserve quartet fashioned genero another lindemans cellar-style label proud another mainstream idyll which always elected another outstanding estate-grown grapes which another powerful pinot vintage perhaps little another prestige capel whispering another recent introduction bleasdale range although another shining score sheet least another single vineyard sauvignon blanc usually fermented another slow-developing estate-grown grapes another unique blend however common another string bethany wines another tollana classic proud history entirely another complex great sophisticated another jenke showing skilled sensitive winema another philip jones which strikes another wellington stable repay cellaring another no-holds-barred mintaro style another score solidly hunter valley another combination winemaking another uncompromisingly reflect climate another undergo various metamorphoses years another which shows ever-growing sophistication answer answered answering antecedents anticipating antipodean antique anxious anyone anyone chalambar shiraz between anything anywhere apart aperitif-style appalling apparent apparently appeal appeals appear appearance appeared appearing appears appellation applaud applauded apple applied applied applies applying apppropriate appreciable appreciate appreciatedr approach approachable approaching appropriate appropriately approve approximately apricot aprilv apsley aquila ararimu archetypal architecture areat areasB arguable arguably arguably winery range although arguably value riesling country label arguably best-value pinot produced australia arguably distinguished wines produced arguably distinguished collards wines provin arguably distinguished coonawarra arguably famous coonawarra years arguably interesting quite argue argued arguing argumentM ariki arlewood armagh arnie arnold aroma aromas aromatic aromatics aroundc arrangements array arrivall arrowfield arrowfield releases reserve shiraz lower-p arthur arthurs artifice artificially artist vintages doonkuna clonakilla helm's consistentl fastidiously produced character special selection wines mountford single vineyard label replaced former previously labelled western australia vintage mamre brook split itsel grant burge grape variety produces which written times chardonnay unusually appropriate diametrically opposed style sauvignon blanc drawing would expect distinctly weight complexit revamp buring range plunkett himself observes vintage abbreviated suggests blend cabernet label attests drawn entirely mclaren vineya label indicates entirely single planting label itself proclaims second vintage label coonawarra shiraz sourced label suggests entirely marlborough region implies chardonnay grapes sourced vintage mamre brook split itsel@ indicates mixed regional source huntington estate wines entirely wines entirely estate-grown white wines ready there indeed almost point there riesling planted coon@ attractive clean which significant australia avant-garde packaging might suggest serious bankside@ barossa-grown@ barrel-fermented barriques based seppelt dorrien vineyard barossa valle@ being between blanc blend bloodwood always malbec produce botrytis-infected indicates mixed regional source implies ultra-late harvest style suggests blend canberra district-sourced suggests bordeaux-blend which offers pretty suggests vineyard selection suggests produced primarily hectare suggests vintage winemaker suggests top-of-the-range chardonnay release suggests vines dating tells produced low-yielding grenach perfectly evident problems alkoomi wines produced estate-grown d'arenberg wines ebenezer range opulently oaked goona warra wines estate-grown notewo huntington estate wines entirely jud's wines estate-grown produce maxwell wines sourced primarily millton wines estate-grown according padthaway estate wines sevenhill heroic style tahbilk wines estate-grown produced wines under dromana estate label wines under premium mountadam label ashton hills wines these pinots relying bannockburn wines estate-grown bianchet wines estate-grown wines estate-grown covell estate wines organically kyeema wines sourced vineyards wines entirely estate-grown seresin estate wines complex range shingle wines produced hectar willespie wines estate-grown produced small mount barker wineries dependent southcorp group wines surpr cabernet franc hectares estate merlot chardonnay three vintages available premium cabernet sauvignon caberne riesling produced almost entirely large riesling vineyard selection coupled sauvignon blanc estate-grown hectares semillon something moving feast albeit shiraz bowen believes ripeness tokay range accent thrown white wines ready there indeed almost ascribed ashbrook ashtonE asian aside asked asking aspects aspire aspiring assemblage asserting assertive asserts asset assistance assisted associate associates association assume assumed assumes assuming assumption assured assuredly astonishing astonishingly astringency astringent astronomically 1960s potenti point there riesling planted macrae still offering nineteenth century number hunter lighter spectrum sometimes little opposite spectrum babich's opulent at-times athelstan attached attack attacks attain attains attempt attempts attendant attention attest attested attesting attests attitudes attract attracted attractions attractivei attractive clean which significant attribute attributed attributes auckland auckland's auctions audience augmented augurs august auricht auslese auspicious austere australasia australia australia australia'sX australia's greatest turbulent early historyX australianN austrians authentic authority autumn availability availabler avalon avant-garde avant-garde packaging might suggest serious average averages avoid awanga award awarded awardst aware awatea awatere awe-inspiring awesome awkward babich babich's bachelor bachtebel backw back-blended backbone background badge baileyK baileysG baileys founded varley bailey bakers balancev balanced baldivis baldivis releases wooded lightly oaked baldwin balgownie ballarat ballarat-grown ballingal balls balmoral balnaves banana bandwagon bandwagons banknote banks bankside bannockburn_ bantry barbera bareX barely barest bargain bargains barker barker/frankland barns barnsely baroque barossaM barossa-based barossa-grown barossa-style barossan barrel barrel-aged barrel-ferment barrel-fermented barrel-fermented barrel-fermented french produced hectare barrelsM barrington barrique barriquesq barriques barry barry's barwang based^ based low-yielding shiraz grown predominantly central based precious patch 145-year-old vines based seppelt dorrien vineyard barossa valle basic basically basis basketq basket-pressed bastard batch batch-bottled batches battle battleship baume bay's bay-style beach beacon beamish bearing bears beatrice beaujolais beautiful beautifully beauty becamel becauseH become becomesr becoming beenN befits beforer begging beginning begins_ behind beholder beingv being belford belgiorno-nettis belied belief believe believers believesi bell-clear bellingham belonging below belsham benchmark benchmarks bendigo benefit benefiting benfield bennett benson bernard berries berrima berry bestI best's best-known best-selling best-value besting bestowed bestowing bestows bethany betterB better-kept better-known better-quality better-than-average bettering betweenG between between barrel-fermented french beverford beverly bewitch beyond bianchet bigger biggest dwt18 constant number which change bindi bindi produces complex notably long-lived chardonna biodynamic birds birthday birthplace bisected bistro-style bitter bizarre black blackjack blackwell blackwell shiraz named after long-term winemaker stuart blackwood bladen blanct blanc blanc-like blancs blass blass's blatantly bleasdale blendM blend blend blendedv blending blends blessed blewitt blind blockK blockbuster blocks blood bloodwood bloodwood always malbec produce blowsy board boards boast boasting bobbed bodied bold-style bolstered bone-dry bonesX bonny bookX boots-and-all bordeaux bordeaux-blend bordeaux-style borders bornW vigorous rivalry between radically differentW borrowed bortoli bortoli-like liqueur muscat tokay extreme qualit varietal merlot cabernet merlot blend sugge wooded unwooded versions chardonnay produced botobolar botrytisw botrytis-affected botrytis-infected botrytis-influenced botrytisedw bottleD bottle-developed bottle-fermented bottled_ bottles botrytis-infected@ bottles brand's bristol brown brothers pioneers planting business-class@ cabernet californian-trained carabooda@ cast@ challenge character chardonnay chateau tahbilk quite extensive plantings chardonnay christchurch@ clarified classically@ clonakilla fermented early bottled preserve maximum fruit comes@ commentators@ competition complexed@ compromise confused@ consistent contact contract-grown conventionally coonawarra country creek decades delatite-style@ denote@ descriptors develop difficult disastrous@ bottles bottling bottlings bottomG bounced bound boundaries boundary bounds bouquet bourgogne boutique bouverie bowenh boweya bowling boynton boynton's bracingly bracket bradley brady bradys bragato brajkovich brajkovichs branched brancott brand brand extension these brand'sl brand's brand-extended branded brands brandy brasserie brasserie/cafe bratasiuk brave brayne breadth break bream bream creek situated coldest sites tasma breathtakingly breed breezes bremerton brentwood brewing brian briar bridge bridgetown bridgewater brief briefly brien brighams bright brightwater brilliance brilliant brilliantly brindabella bring bringing brings brisbane bristol bristol british broadv broad-ranging broadened broader broadfield broadfield's broke brokenwood brokenwood acquisition controlling brokenwood wanders country search appropriate brokenwood's bronze brook brook's brookdale brookland brother brothersv brought brownI brown brothers pioneers planting bruer brussels brydon bucketful buckling budgetary build-up building builds builds-up built bullers bullied bunch bunch-thinning bunches burge burge's burgermeister burgundian burgundies burgundy^ buring buring's burke burnham burnt burramurra burst bursting burton busby bush-pruned bushel bushfires bushing business business-class butler buttery buxton large prefer unwooded wines oakvale greatest drayton's lambkin estate means flashy reserved style unequ by-product bygone bypassed cabernetO cabernet cabernet cabernet sauvignon always winery specialty cabernet sauvignon widely planted variety cabernet sauvignon variety planted viney cabernet-based cabernet-blend cabernet-dominant cabernets cabinet caboodle cachet cafe-style cafe/brasserie cairnbrae cakes calamities california california's californian californian-born californian-trained californian-trained californian-trained winemaker grant taylor gibbston called calligraphic cambewarra cambridge unheralded unexpectedly sweep mount cameron campbell campbell's campbells} absolutely outstanding canberrao canberra-based cane-cut canes canning cannot canobolas canobolas-smith canopy canterbury capable capacity clairault little hectares sauvignon capel capel continues flourish fashion capercaillie capital capitalised capped capsule capsules captive capture carabooda carbunup career careful carefully carey carlo carlsfield carlsfield vineyard planted sweeping hillsi carpenter carping carr's carried carries carries almost forbidding strength earthy carrodus carry carson carved cascade casesK cashew casks cassegrain castella castle catch categories category cattle caught cause caused caution cavalcade ceased cedary celebrateK celebrated celebration celebrations cellar cellar-door cellar-style cellardoor cellared cellaring cellarmaster cellarmaster's cellars cellier cellier branched table non-sparkling cent} centenary central central-france centre century century-old ceramic certain_ certainlyh certified cessation chablis-style chaffey chain chairman's chais chalambar challenge challenge challenged challengers challenges challenging chamber chambers chambourcin chambourcin french-bred hybrid hitherto mainly produced chambourcin french-bred hybrid which highly resistan chambourcins champagne champagnes champenoise champion chance chandon chanel change changed changes changing channels chapel charactert character characteristic characteristics characters chard chardonany chardonnayB chardonnay chardonnay chardonnay particularly valley produci chardonnay occupies major portion 4-hectare estate chardonnay occupies lion's share strip block chardonnay little under hectares accounts chardonnay-dominant chardonnay-predomina chardonnay-style chardonnays charge charles charles melton known shiraz rhone-style charles sturt university limited vineyards charlie charlotte chateau chateau tahbilk quite extensive plantings chardonnay chateau tahbilk particularly known riesl chatsfield chaytor cheap cheaper cheaper version reserve sourced check chemical chemistry chenin chequered cherry cherry-accented cherry/berry chest chief chief winemaker moularadellis graduated rosewo chieflyX chifney children chinon chips chittering chloe choice choices choose chore chose chosen chris chris first vigneron plant vines christchurch christian christobels christobels/antipode christopher chronically chronicledX church church block typically blend around cabernet sauvign circle circumstances citrus citrussy claimw claimed claims clair clairault clancy's clans clansmen clareM clare-style clarendon claret claret-shaped clarets clarification clarified clarified clarity classK classed classes classicr classic old-vine clare cabernet unforced probably classic riesling jekyll jekyll formerly classically classicsG classy claudio clays clean cleaned cleansing clear clear-cut clearest clearly clearview cleveland clever cleverly cleverness cliche clifford cliffs climate climates climatic climaxed climbed clings clive clock clonakilla clonakilla clonakilla's clonal clone clonesE close close-planted closed closely^ closer clouds cloudy cloying clumsy clutch clutter co-owner coarse coarsen coast coastal cobaw cocktail cofield coincided coincidence coincidentally coincidentally otherwise wildwood chardonnay fermented early bottled preserve maximum fruit cold-climate cold-fermented cold-settled cold-soak coldest coldstream coleraine colin collards collected collection college collotype colombard colombard/chardonnay colour coloured combination combined combining comes comes hectares estate plantings comes hectare estate plantings contrary normal comes predominantly vines annie's comes hectares estate plantings comingG commemorate commence commenced commencing commendable commendably commensurate commensurately comment commentators comments commerce commercialw commercialise commerciallyw commissioning commitment common commonly commonplace communal companies companion company comparative comparatively compare compared comparison comparisons compatibility compelling compelling proof hastings valley north coast competent competently competently direct no-frills style moderately competing competitiont competition competitions competitive competitively competiton complain complaint complementD complementing complete completed completely completion complex complex winemaking techniques obviously complexed complexities complexityE complicated component components composed composed equal portions gisborne marlborough chard composition comprehension comprehensively comprehensively demondrille range comprisingv compromise compromise compromising compton conceivably conceivedP concentrate concentrated concentrationt concept concerned concerning concessions conclusion concours concrete concurrently condition conditions conducted confection-like confess confidently confines confirm confirmed confirms conformity conforms confound confuse confused confusing confusingly confusingly victoria chardonnay indicate appella confusion conjunction conjure conjured connection connoisseurs consciousness consecrated consecutive consequence consequently conservative consider considerable considerations considered considers consigned consigning consistency consistentD consistent consistentlyt consistently zealand's wines currentl consistently paulett range always consistently castle estate wines consistently seville estate wines little conspicuous conspicuously constant constitute constituted constitutes constrained constraints constructed consultancy consultant consumed consumers consummate consumption contactr contact contacts contain contained containers containing contains contenders content contenting contention contentious contesting context conti continental continuation continue continued continues continuing contract contract-growers contract-grown contract-grown contract-made contract-made petaluma coming hectares contract-made andrew quantities since contract-making contract-winemaker contract-winemaking contracted contracts contrary contrary might expect marked first contrast contrasting contribute contributed contributing contribution contributors control controllable controlled controlling controversial controversy conventional conventionally conventionally converse convert convicts convinced convincing cool-climate cool-country cool-fermented cool-grown coolangatta cooler coolest coombsville coona coonawarraN coonawarra coonawarra's cooper cooperage coopers cope-williams copied coquard corban corban's corbans corbans first producer release noteworthy pinot cordon corino coriole corks corner cornucopia coromandel corporation correct correctly correlative corresponding corriedale cosmetic costing cottage couldb counterpart counterparts country country country's coupled courageously courier-mail/sherato course court cousins covell covering coveted cowan cowra crabtree crabtree's craft crafted craggy craig craiglee craigmoor crammedh crappsley's crawford crawford's crawley craze creaminess create created creating creation creations creative credence credible credit creditable creditably creekM creek creek-blend creeps crest cricket cricketing cringed crisis crispr crisper crispness critical criticised criticism critics crittenden croft crofters cropping crops croser croser's cross cross-regional crossing crossings crouchen crown crozes^ crush crushed crystal crystal-pure csiro cuisine cuisine's cullen cullulleraine cultured cumming curiousN curiouslyN curiously penfolds every vintage currency current currently curtain curve custom-made customary customer cutthroat cutting cuvee cuvees cygnet cyril d'arenberg d'yquem d5v12 daisy dalfarras dalfarras offers chardonnays unoaked released damage daniel danny dared dargaud darling darlington darren dartmoor dashwood dates dating daughter daunting dauntingly daverne's david davorenW daylight daysH dazzling deadman's deakin dealing death debatable debate debut decade decades decades decemberX decent deceptive deceptively decided decidedly decisionw declaration declassified decline declining decreed dedicated deepens deeply defence defiance defies define defined definitely definition definitively degree_ degrees dehydration deigned delamere delatite delatite leader correct labell delatite-style delays delectable delegat's deliberate deliberately^ deliberately consistently fuller delicacy delicate delicious deliciously delight delighted delightful delineation delivery deluxe demand demanded demanding demands demise demondrille demonstrate demonstrated demonstrates demonstrating demonstration demptos denbarker denied denman denmark denmark/albany dennis denote denotes dense densely densities density departed departure depend dependable dependent depending{ depending vintage lillypilly releases depends depicting depicts depth deputy deredcliffe derek derivation derive derived derives deriving derwent descend descendant descended descending describe described describes describing description descriptor descriptors descriptors deserve deserved deservedlyH deservedly broke through zealand deserves deserves recognition greatest yarra deserving design designation designed designed poacher's blend similarly designs desirable desire desired desist despite dessert dessert-style destemmed destination destined destroyed detail determination determine detracting detuned deutz devastation_ developl develop developed developing development develops devices devil's devotees dexter diabetics diagonal dialectic diametrically diamond dictate dictates difference differentE differentialb differentiation differently differing differs difficult difficult difficulties difficulty diffuse dillon's diluted dilution dimension dinner dinners dioxide directb direct no-frills winemaking places primary emphasis directed direction directly director directors disagree disappear disappeared disappearing disappoint disappointing disappointment disappointments disapprove disarmingly disastrous discernible discipline disciplined disclosed disconcerting disconcertingly discontinuation discontinued discordant discovered discovery discredit discreet discussion disease disfigure disgorged disgorgementv disgorging dismally disparate dispense dispersed display displayed disposed disproportionate dispute dissatisfied dissimilar distance distanced distinctN distinction distinctiveG distinctly distinctly distinguishedv distinguishes distinguishing distraction distribute distributor districto district-sourced diverse diverted dividends dividing divorce dodds does_ distinctly dotted@ drawn drawn primarily hectares estate plantings draws hectares estate vineyards management dwt18 early-developing@ effectively@ elects@ emergence enhanced entirely estate-grown shiraz forms total vineyar@ established estate estate-grown estate-grown mendoza clone mvig-1 clone@ estate-grown stainless steel fermented@ evocatively exceptional expects extract famous favourable@ fermentation fermented fickle finite@ first first intervening years produc@ first greatest riesling made@ first release returning doesn't doggedly doing dolan dolcetto dollars dollop dolly domaine^ domestically domicile dominantv dominate dominated dominates don't donaldson doole doonkuna dorado dorrien dosage dotted double doubled doubly doubto doubtful doubting doubtless doubtless important white version jacobs creek doubts dough downM downhill downright downy doyles dozen average years blended reserve drained dramatic dramatically draper's drawing drawn drawn drawn hectares estate plantings vines drawn hectares estate pinot drawn little hectares estate plantings drawn little hectares estate plantings drawn about hectares estate plantings drawn dry-grown mclaren shiraz first drawn range montana's hawke's vineyards drawn spread vineyard sources utilised drawn various vineyard sources mclaren principa drawn vineyards across south-eastern australia drawn vineyards various altitudes valley drawn hectare estate plantings conventiona drawn hectares estate cabernet sauvignon drawn primarily hectares estate plantings drawn primarily hectares estate plantings drawn principally estate plantings which yield draws draws hectares estate sauvignon blanc draws hectares estate cabernet sauvignon draws hectares bearing cabernet sauvignon draws 20-year-old vines potaka estate barrel- draws hectares estate plantings produce draws hectares estate plantings draws hectares estate plantings likely incorpo draws hectares estate plantings while region draws hectares estate plantings estate merlot draws hectares estate vineyards which draws hectares estate vineyards management draws little hectares estate plantings draws little under hectares estate plantings draws various estate plantings hanson draycott{ drayton drayton's dreadful dreadnought-class dreams dried drier drinkb drink-now drinkability drinker drinker's drinkers drinking drive driven drives driveway driving dromana dropped dropping drought drove drumborg drunkr dry-grown drying dryland drylands dryness dubbedO release october ultra-close spacing vineyard exceedin dujac^ dumbbell dundon dunsborough dunstans duplex duplicate durability durif durif exceedingly obscure variety closely related during during vintage small quantity fruit dwt18 dwt18 dyed-in-the-wool dyson eachK each-way eagerly earlier earlier-maturing earlier-ripening earliest-ripening earlyU early-bottled early-bottling early-developing early-drinking early-maturing early-picked early-release early-ripening earned earth earthy easiest easily eastU easter easternH eastfields ebenezer echelon echoes eckersley economical eddie edelstone edenW edged edges edging edition editions edward edwards effect effective effectively effectively takes previously simply label effectively third chardonnay ranked after effects effort efforts eggwhite eggwhite-fined eggwhites eight eight hectares estate vineyards provide eight-acre eight-year eighteenth eighty eighty fruit destemmed fermented eileen either elaborate elastic elderton elderton's elderton's strength hectares prime barossa eldredge elected elects eleganceE elegantD elegantly elegantly packaged traditional hock-style bottle element elements elevated elevation eleven elgee eliminated eling eliza elizabeth ellen ellis eloquently else's elsewhere elspeth elston elstree elusive email emanating embarked embarrassing embarrassingly embellishments embossed emerged emerged shadows spectacular fashion emergence emergence emerging emily's eminentlyo empathise emphasisM emphasise emphasised emphasises emphasising emphatic emphatically empire employed employing employsE encountered encounters encouraged encourages encouraging endeavour endeavoured endeavours engaging engine-room engineers england engraved enhanced enhanced enhances enigmatic enjoy enjoyed enjoying enjoyment enormous enormously enough ensuing ensure ensuresr enter entered enthusiasm enthusiastic enthusiastically entire entirelyN entirely estate-grown regularly producing powerful full-fl entirely estate-grown shiraz forms total vineyar entirely sourced pepper tree's jointly owned coonawarra entitledX entries entry environment environs enzyme-driven enzymes eppalock equal equalled equally equaly equivalent equivocal ernest errant erratic erroneous escape escaped escapes escarpment especially essayed essential essentially establish established established establishing establishment estateo estate estate means estate-grown coonawarr estate's estate-grown} estate-grown estate-grown medal winner liquorland estate-grown relatively varietal ruthergl estate-grown mendoza clone mvig-1 clone estate-grown american eight months carri estate-grown barrel-fermented french estate-grown given winemaking treatment before estate-grown produced total hectares estate-grown showing technical perfection would estate-grown vinified using range burgundian techni estate-grown selected various vineyard blocks accor estate-grown conventionally fermented on-site estate-grown immaculately tended vineyards barrel-ferme estate-grown vines which years estate-grown hand-picked grapes barrel-fermented estate-grown hand-pruned hand-picked matured estate-grown matua valley's waimauku vineyard which estate-grown petrie vineyard rakaia south canterbu estate-grown stainless steel fermented estate-grown vintage estate-grown distinguished scotchmans estate-owned{ estate-produced estates esteem esters eternal eucalypt eucalyptus european european-style evan's evans evans first producers australia even_ even-rarer event eventual rarely these wines auctions ever-growing ever-increasing ever-reliable ever-swelling everling everyN every zealand botrytised every since seppelt release everyone everyone's everything everywhere evidence evidenced evident evidently evocation evocative evocatively evocatively evokes evolve evolved evolvesD ewell ex-cellar ex-chateau exacerbated exactly example examples exceeded exceeding exceedingly exceeds excellence excellentt excelling excels except exceptionW exceptional exceptional exceptionally excess excessive excessively excitement exciting excluded exclusion exclusive exclusively excuse executive exemplary exemplified exercise exhausted exhibited exhibiting exhibition exhibits exhilarating existing exotic exotically expanded expansive expectI expectancy expectations expected expecting expects expects expense expensive experience experienced experiences experiment experimental experimentation experimenters experimenting expertise experts explain explained explanation exportN exported exposure express expressing expression extend extended extendingv extends extension extensive extensively extent externalities extinction extra extract extract extraction extractive extraordinarilyv extraordinaryE extraordinary packaging feature xanadu extravagant extreme extremely extremes eyelash eyton eyton's eyton-on-yarra fabio faces facilities factors failed faint faint-hearted faintly fairhall fairly faith faithfully falcon faltered famed families family family-owned famous famous famously fanatical far-riper farmB farmhouse farming farms farr^ fashion fashionable fashioned fast-developing fast-maturing fastidiously father fault faultless favour favourable favoured favourite feast feats feature featured features featuring februaryv felix fellow fellows fergus fergusson fergusson's fergussons ferment fermentationX fermentation fermentations fermentedq fermented fermented bone-dry which everling warwick foley fermented spends months american fermented half-tonne fermenters footstampi fermenter fermentersq fermenting fermoy fernhill fertile festooned fickle fickle fiefdom field field's fifteen fifth fifty filsell filtered filtering filtration final finalist finally finding finds fined finely finer finesseE finest finetuning fingerprint fingerprints fining finish_ finishedX finishes finishing finite firmly firmness firstK first first appeared scene vintage first introduced ararimu label become first introduced first introduced under label although there first introduced controversial first launched vintage released first promptly dubbed man's grange first hiatus between first intervening years produc first established itself first sandalford valley first fashioned entirely first sourced premium areas across first produced estate vineyards first wines australia include first hectares riesling first bucketful remarkable change first superb quality which still first leading sparkling first pipers brook first vintaged years first chequered career first unirrigated low-yielding first greatest riesling first taking first immediately established itself first signature grant burge first consistent performer since first overnight success although first immediately caught first really jackpot first isolation ridge moved being first utilising grapes grown premium cool-cl first profile first evolved improved first undoubtedly merits reserve design first partner mitchelton white first blend chardonnay first release returning first follow-on vintage first estate-grown blend cabernet sauvign first modern trend first cowra recognised high- first blend merlot shiraz caberne first mudgee-grown grapes emphasi first massive style which roman first received after indiffere first lowest-yielding parcels first judgment first using grapes available cooper first immediate success against first receiving immediate recognition first third vintage moving closer first sauvignon blanc first produced vines grown typical first taking fruit 44-year-old first mouthful first vintage released first vintage which immediately first vintage pressed traditiona first appalling vintage sharing first difficult vintage follow-up first outstanding coonawarra vintage first debut sweeping before first produced grapes planted first produced blend cabernet sauvignon first produced intermittently thereafter first produced immediate success winnin first sauvignon blanc first produced under reserve label drawn@ fishing flavour fluctuate@ forces@ founder franc french hickinbotham estate plantings which include unus@ fruit fruity-style fully botrytised semillon picked baume garden geographic gimblett given graham stevens planted zinfandel almost years sometim@ grapes great-grandchildren@ grossman@ grown gundagai hallmarks@ handsome@ releases jud's label having decided sauvignon blanc hunter first produced under reserve label drawn first released flagship first released first released continuing towards rathe first released entirely great western first released celebrate 150th birthday first released package blatantly copied first released blend grapes first released representing brand extension first released february single-vineyard shiraz first released 1960s barossa valley shiraz first released under label vintage althou first released under label immediat first-class first-crop first-ever first-hand first-up fishburn fishing fishing above poacher's blend gamekeeper's fitting fittingly fiumara five-star five-star/classic five-year flabby flag-bearer flag-bearers flagon flagship flagships flair flamboyant flash flashy flats flatter flattery flavourh flavour flavoured flavoursE flavoursome flawless flesh fleshed fleshy fletcher flick flirtation flooding floor floral florance florita flourish flourishes flower flowers flows fluctuate fluctuated fluke fly-fisherman flying focus focused focusing foley follett follies follow follow-on follow-up followed following follows follows track sister super-abundant folly foodD food-style foot-stamped foot-trodden footbolt foothills footstamping footsteps relatively small producer significant ngata decades flag-bearer vasse felix always benchmarks pinot australasia muscat greatest expression northeastern observers zealand's finest pinot certa years moorilla estate harboured ambition decade which offered extraordinary better decades tollana riesling second three years notley gorge years totally distinctive fast-maturing over-t forbidding force forced forces forcing fordwich/broke forefathers forefront foreknowledge foremost forest foresty/plummy/earth forever forgot forgotten formal formed former formerly formidable forming forms formula forrest forte fortification fortifiedI fortifying fortnightly fortunes forty forward fosters found foundation foundation shiraz tatachilla's flag-bearer taking foundedK founderI founder founders founding fourI clones pinot under zealand numbering system hundred fifty cases handcrafted wines produc four-vintage fourteen fourth fowler foxes fraction fragrance fragrant fragrantly framework framingham francU franc france^ franco francois francs frank frankland frankly freakish frederick free-draining free-range free-run freedom freely freeze freezes frenchN french french french-bred french-coopered french-influenced frequent frequently freres fresh fresherw freshness freycinet freycinet produced remarkable string vintages betwe friend friend's friendly frighteningh frills fringe fromB 2-hectare plantings olive vineyard barwang vineyard hilltops region young hickinbotham estate plantings which include yallambee vineyards heavyweight long-established lindemans-owned steven vineyard newly acquired deredcliffe marlborough vineyard vineyard chris goodchild kalunga fromenteau front frontignacI frontignan fronts frost frosts fruitD fruit fruit-driven fruitier fruits fruity fruity-stylestyle fruity-style frustrating frustratingly frustration fulfil fullE full-blooded full-blown full-bodied full-flavoured full-frontal full-throated fuller fullest fullyh fully botrytised semillon picked baume fully deserves reserve label sourced premium fully-mature fumagalli function fundamental fundamentally fungal furnished furtherE future fyffe gainedB gainingt galactica galafrey gallagher gallo galway gamay gamay grape beaujolais france extremely gamays gamekeeper's games gaminess gamutE garden garden garlicky garnered garry gary^ france every since whil^ gauged gauntlet geber geelong_ geisenheim gembrook general generalisations generalise generally generally regarded zealand's shirazs generation generosity generous generously geneva genius genre gentle gentlemen gently genuine genuinely geoff geoff merrill veteran maker particularly geographic geographic geographical georgeE georgia's georgia's paddock larger vineyard gerard german german-bred germans germany gertrudis gesture getting gewurztraminer gewurztraminer relatively grape hunter gewurztraminer seems wherever grown gewurztraminer variety which matawhero famous gewurztraminers ghiran giaconda giant giants gibbston gibbston valley produced rieslings vintage gibraltar giesen gifted gilbert giles gillan gimblett gimblett gimmick gimmickry gingham gingin gingin/darling gippsland gisborne gisborne's give-away givenN given given mildara's penchant creating labels brand given normal vintage conditions classic example given treatment whole-bunch pressing fermen given winemaking treatment barrel-fermented given winemaking treatment three hours given volume which gives} giving gladstones glass glasses glenara glengarry glenmark glenn glenrowan glenrowan/rutherglen glorious gloriously glory gobble godfrey going goldI medal winner royal adelaide gold-rush goldbeeren golden goldwater gonew goodM good-quality goodchild goona gooseberry gordon gorge goulaine goulburn goundrey goundrey's grace graced gracefully grade gradually graduated graduating graeme grafted graham graham stevens quarter hectare zinfandel estab graham stevens planted zinfandel almost years sometim grahm graillot^ gramp gramp's grams grand grandchildren granddaughter grandfather grangeM granite granitic grant grant burge purchasing grapes dennis kraft granted grapeW grapefruit grapesB grapes grapes grapevine graphic grass grassier grassy gravel gravelly gravels graveyard gravy greatG great-grandchildren great-grandfather great-great greaterH greatestX greatlyl greatness green green's o'keefe draws vineyards north south grenache grenache easily flabby cloying sickly sweet grenache typically shiraz typically mourvedre griffith grigio grilli gross grosset grossman group grove grower growers growers experimenting shiraz length growing grownH grown grown belford contain limestone grown extreme cabernet sauvignon always grown murchison cooler valley region grown river terraces adjoining awatere river grown banks tamar river excelle grown ohiti estate blend cabernet sauvign grows growth guarantee guard guess guessing guide guigal guises gully gundagai gundagai habermann habit hackett hackett's hail_ hairs halcyon hectare estate plantings produced first vintag half-bottles half-dozen half-hectare half-new half-tonne half-used halfway hallett hallmark hallmarks hamilton hamilton's hamish hancock handb picked label proclaims release hand-harvested hand-harvested hawke's grapes barrel-fermented hand-me-downsP hand-pick hand-picked hand-picked fruit hand-sorted before being fermented hand-plungedq hand-plunging hand-prune hand-pruned{ hand-sorted handcrafted handedM handful handle handled handling hands handsome handsomely handy hanging hanlins hanson happ's happened happening happens happilyi happs happy harboured hard-pressed hard-to-describe hardcastle hardened hardly hardness hardy hardy's hardys harewood harking harold harpers harris harry harshness harvestv harvested harvested estate vineyards taken harvesting always extremely concentrated full- appeared under various guises since first experiment consistent style years releases jud's label performers lenton overshadowed shiraz usefu performer chatsfield vintages light intensely flavoured style rapidly become flag-bearer pepper which replaced pinot product roster perhaps stood shadow craiglee shiraz vertica winemaker's fingerprints haselgrove hasn't hastings haunt havei havelock having having decided sauvignon blanc hunter hawke's hawke's cabernet sauvignon zealand hawkesbridge hay's hazard hazards head-to-head headed heading headlines healthy heard heart hearty heathcote heaviest heavily heavy heavy-handed having decided sauvignon blanc hunter heavy-handed hectares helena@ heytesbury flagship vasse felix taking highest-pointed hills hogsheads hours hunter ideal@ illustration@ important mitchelton conceived staging print produced grapes grown solely yarra valle@ midst debate rhine including indicates initial intended intermittently introduced introduced redman range early 1990s sinc@ should surprise having recognised jangling@ heavy-handed heavyweight hectareE hectareso hectares heeding heemskerk heemskerk/jansz/roch heggies height heights helen helena helga helm's helped helping helps hence{ henceforth henderson henriW henry henschke henschke's henschkes herbaceous herbaceous/dimethyl herbal herbal/hay/straw herds component material greater hermann hermitage^ heroes heroic hesitate hesitated heytesbury heytesbury flagship vasse felix taking hiatus hickinbotham hickson hidden hierarchy highD high-alcohol high-altitude high-bank high-class high-flavour high-flavoured high-level high-profile high-quality high-tech high-toned high-wall high-yielding higherP higher-priced highest highest-pointed highest-pointed highest-qualityW highest-rated highfield highland highlands highlight highly highly rated magazine hillU hill-grown hillsE hills hillside hillsides hillstowe hillstowe's hilltops himself^ hired historic historically historyX hit-and-miss hithertoB hitting hobart hock-style hoddles hoffman hogarth's hogshead hogsheads hogsheads hohnen hohnen's holdings holds hollick hollow hollyclare holmes holystone homesteadc homme honest honesty honour honourable honoured honours hood's hooke hooke'sX hooper hooper's hopefully horgan horrocks horse hotham houghton houghton's hours hours house housing vines there legal definition howard howecroft howeverN hubert's huberts hugely humid humidity humour hundred} hungerford hunterr hunter hunter's hunter-style huntington huonX hurtle husband hutton hyatt hybrid hyperbole always uneasy about names director applaud decision leave semillon devices derivation finally terms olive bottles little background except remain convinced anyone should planting suspect necessity mother invention suspect replaces former semillon sauvignon thought outstanding white wines about brand little learnt winemaking chateau reynella idealD ideally ideas identical identification identified identifying identity idiomatic idiosyncratic idyll idyll vineyard always produced gewurztraminer chardonnay presents challenge nelson climate possible reserve pinot includes range proud looking chardonnay drink dolly ignatius ignored illustration illustriousP image imaginable imagine imagines imitate imitation immaculate immaculate viticulture mixture high-tech trellis immaculate viticulture great attention detail immaculately immature immediate immediatelyK immense immensely immigrated impact impart impeccable imperative imperfection imperious implication implies importance important important importantly importation importations imported impose impossible impossibly impressedt impressesB impression impressive impressively imprinted improbable improve improvedl improvement colin gramp orlando's managing director embarke craigmoor together tyrrell's vintaged mitchelton conceived staging print pinot blend neerim yarra again paracombe's least distinctly robinson diamond valley one-off decision separately produced wooded unwooded suspec again alwyn corban stables distinctly different style green's adelai similar mould sauvignon blanc although almost embarrassing display another april long-awaited white grange finally distinguished brindabe contrast vavasour reserve which barrel-fe early vintages offer under blend cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet produced grapes grown solely yarra valle simply labelled yeringberg blass bandwagon flag-bearer willespie typical marga halcyon university student paul's consistently moorilla estate outstanding mountadam recent years giesen established vineyards recent years killerby wines response hardys ever-growing empire brokenwood tradition complex regional blend early great names majority vintages voyager estate produces chardo manner chateau d'yquem grapes manner socrates dissatisfied stephen webber midst debate rhine style riesling wobbled around tradition majority sparkling wines henschke family acquired 14-hectare style quality class caberne vintages marked yields excelle inability inauguralB inauspicious inception incessantly incidencew incidentally inclined include included includes including^ including inclusion inclusive incognito inconsistent incorporate incorporatedw incorporates incorporating incorporation incorrect incorrectly increase increased increases increasing increasingly incredible incredibly indeedb indefatigable indefinite indent independent indeterminate indian indicate indicated indicates indicates indication indicative indifferent indigenous individual individuality individually industry industry veteran james irvine producing grand inevitable inevitably inevitably lives shade leeuwin estate's chardonnay inexpressiveD infamous infected infection inferior infinitely influenceW influenced influences_ influencing influential information informed infrequentlyw ingoldby ingredients inherent initial initial initiallyP initially blend cabernet sauvignon merlot since initials initiated inland innerstaves innoculated innocuous innovation innovative innovators innumerable inoculated inoculation inoffensive input inputs insipid insist inspiration inspire inspired installed instance instances instant instantaneous instead instrumental insurance intact intake integrate integrity intelligence intelligently intended intended intense intensely intensifies intensify intensity intensive intensive viticulture trimming leaf-plucking bunch-thinn intention interaction interest interesting} interestingly intermediate intermittent intermittently intermittently internationalt interspersed intervals intervening intervention intervin intimidating intor intriguing intriguingly intrinsic introduce introduced introduced introduced named after local landmark which introduced repositioning refocusi introduced semillon riesling blend introduced companion meshach medal introduced distinctive label introduced another glorious cullen while introduced added introduced deredcliffe range barrel-f introduced barrel-fermented french introduced replaced former barrel fermented introduced underneath hamilton ewell introduced early 1990s towards introduced mid-1990s volume underneat introduced redman range early 1990s introduced vintage fermented american introduces introductionP intrusion intrusive invariable invariablyD invariably richer fuller mount barker rieslin invention invest invested investing investment invests invites involvedl involves involving ironic ironically ironstone ironstone-laced irregular irrigated irrigation irvine isabel island isn't isolation issue draws hectares estate plantings style varyi difficult whether cleverness label develop early substantial input never rains waiheke island lead-up vintage seems quite certain years ahead adelaide should surprise having recognised desire riesling particular desire great sparkling which prima would indeed surprise disappointment stephe would little higher would cuvee victoria regarded yellowglen italian italian-born italian-style italians italy itself insist grapes white fruit jackpot jackson jackson's jackson's winery australasia jacobs jacobs creek marketing miracles modern jaegle jaffa james james pennington learnt craft extraordinarily jamiesons jammy jancis janet jangling january japan jarrah jeffrey jekyll jenke jenke regards prices accordingly jenkins jeremy jewel jewels jewelstone jigsaw irvine believes making statement merlot jimmy jindong jingalla's joadja joanna grilli always conjure something quite johnW belsham deliberately adopts profile kosovich trophy resisted temptation chardonnay wilson always powerful riesling polis john's johns joined jointly joking jones jonsson jordan's journalist-turned-gr initials james stanley malpas jud's estate matua valley-owned vineyard judged judges judging judging alcohol disclosed label title judgment judicious judiciously juggernaut juice juicy julio jumped jungle-juice resisted temptation chardonnay jungle-juice hectares estate plantings shira@ label labelled barrique matured fruit largely laughton leconfield leeuwin less-expensive@ lighten@ little's white wines fermented emphasis@ chardonnay volume brand stonier's derived semillon drawn hectares estate plantin@ limited lirralirra follows variable roster semillon looked lower entirely cabernet sauvignon grown 12-hectar@ hectares immaculately tended estate plantings@ certified biodynamic estate-grown grapes vinif@ grapes grown loamy willunga jungle-juice junior shiraz produced dryland serious example sauvignon blanc often eastern peake vineyards gauged makes one's growing riesling justice justifiably justifiably regarded zealand chenin blanc justification justified justifies justify kairanga kaiser kaleidoscopic kalunga hectares estate plantings shira karstrom katnook katnook's kauwhata kawarau keenly keeping keeping twists turns penfolds development keeping veritable cascade sauvignon blanc keeps keith boynton elects cabernet sauvignon merlot kelly kellybrook kelman kemblefield's kevin keyes killed killerby kilometres kingv kingdom kings kingston kinnaird kinzbrunner kinzbrunner's knappstein knight knocked knockout knowing knowledge knownI knows kominos koonunga koppamurra koppamurra/naracoort kosovich kraan kraanwood kraft krister krondorf kuitpo kumeu kyeema labassa labelI label labelled labelled barrique matured fruit labelled simply sauvignon which argue correct labelling labelsN lacked lacking lacklustreN lacks lake's lakewood lakewood-style lakey lalla lambkin lamont lance's landmark landmarks langhorneM langi langmeil lansdowne large large-volume largely largely larger largest larry larry mckenna works wines focusing laser-flat lashings latev late-harvest late-harvested late-picked late-ripening later later-ripening latin latour latter latter's laughton laughton launceston launch launched launching lavish lawson lawson's lawsons layer layers laying lead-up leader leaders leading leads leaf-plucking leaf/cedar leafier leafy leafy/minty league leaping leapt learn learned learner learning learnt leasingham leask leastb leave leaves leaving leconfield leconfield leconfield's lee's leesv lees-aged leeuwin leeuwin legal legendary legends legion legitimacy legitimatelyw lehmann leith's evans planted gamay vineyards surrounding lends length lennards lenswood lenton leonard leonards leonay lessG less-expensive less-intrusive less-tricky less-warm lesser lesser-quality lesson let-down letters leunig level levelsh leviathan-style lewis library/museum licensed liebich's lifted lifting light light-bodied light-year lighten lighter lightly lights scotchmans wines estate-grown ashton hills wines relatively slow-developing kyeema wines sourced canberra district little's white wines fermented emphasis sister vintage without kaleidoscopic array wines villa himself never controversy again classic clare shiraz massively producers haselgrove joined grenache yarra valley producers lirralirra produced botobolar shiraz produced organically grown chais clarendon shiraz primarily sourced chardonnay estate-grown chardonnay chardonnay entirely estate-grown martinbo chardonnay quantities again chardonnay primarily yallambee chardonnay produced grapes grown chardonnay taken bottle carson chardonnay volume brand stonier's derived coleraine longer single vineyard-based eldredge riesling full-bodied early-maturing excellent methode champenoise barrington flag-bearer elspeth given treatment matariki sauvignon blanc first while nepenthe chardonnay shows skilled high-q pinot grown gravelly soils ohiti pinot alkoomi works pinot produced hectare estate reserve chardonnay restricted quantities riesling one-off vintage riesling first regional variet riesling produced little hectare sauvignon comes original plantings establi semillon drawn hectares estate plantin semillon first which takes semillon sauvignon blanc grapes grown shiraz estate-grown purchased shiraz primarily grapes grown estate wines colin preece seppelt great western likely likes likewise liking lillydale lillydale vineyards first producers sauvig lillypilly lilydale limestone limestone-based limestone-impregnate limit limitationb limitations limitedB limited limits lincoln lindeman lindemans lindemans first release sauvignon blanc coonawarra lindemans stop-start relationship riesling lindemans verdelho planted padthaway vineyard lindemans-owned lindsay lindy line-up lineage links lintel lintz lion's lionel's liqueurI liqueured liquid liquorice liquorland lirralirra lirralirra follows variable roster semillon listed lists literature litre little little's lived lively liverpool lives living lloyd loaded loader loads loams loamy local located location lodge lofthouse's lofty logical loire london longr established stalwart allandale range long-awaited long-established long-lived long-serving long-since long-term long-used longer longer-lived longest longevity longleat longridge look-alike looked looked looking looks loose loosely lorenz lorenz's losing louise lovedale lovely lover lovers low-cropping low-priced low-yield low-yieldingX lower lower lower-pricedP lower-yielding lowes lowest-yielding loxton lubiana lucky lunch lured lurking luscious lushM lushly lustre lyncroft lyndoch macarthur macdonald macedon macerated maceration machine machine-harvested mackey macrae madeH almost entirely pinot small compone indicates grapes grown waipara indicates marlborough-grown grapes lintz estate input james walker showin named after michael hutton produced chris lintz lintz estate ariki estat reynolds reynolds yarraman consistent rayner glenmark winery waipara canterb petaluma bridgewater given extended previous owner graham stevens grapes grown steve lubiana substantial winery estab entirely 100-year-old shiraz vines entirely cabernet sauvignon grown 12-hectar entirely chardonnay given almost three years entirely chardonnay sourced australi entirely estate-grown fruit years entirely estate-grown grapes yarraman entirely hand-picked pinot described entirely macedon ranges grapes estate-grow entirely mclaren chardonnay barrel-f entirely shiraz grown sandy soils entirely shiraz grown mount edelstone viney entirely former prigorje vineyard which adjoin entirely yarra valley grapes partially estate-grow cabernet sauvignon cabernet merlot hawke's chardonnay fermented hectares fully mature vines planted adjacent hectares immaculately tended estate plantings pinot chardonnay pinot meunier pinot chardonnay unspecified pinot chardonnay marlborough-so blend pinot chardonnay again blend merlot cabernet sauvignon cabernet franU little hectare estate plantings single block vines named honour small portion grapes harvested varying blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet almost equal quantities cabernet sauvignon barossa-grown palomino matured traditiona estate-grown grapes grapes purchased botrytis-affected chenin blanc riesling grapes brown frontignac otherwise known brown muscat certified biodynamic estate-grown grapes vinif chardonnay grown clare barossa valleys contract-grown barossa valley grapes treated contract-grown grapes marlborough contract-grown grapes sourced waimea contract-grown grapes sourced throughout hawke estate plantings perhaps showing young estate plantings established ancient estate-grown chardonnay pinot estate-grown grapes drawn seifried's upper estate-grown grapes houghton's gingin vineyar estate-grown grapes produced vines which estate-grown sauvignon blanc produced grapes grown vineyards surroundin grapes grown tietjen gisborne's grapes grown loamy willunga grapes grown principally framingham vineyar grapes produced best-k hectare estate plantings winner hectare estate plantings employing hand-harvested estate-grown grapes barrel-fe hand-harvested grapes selected particular hand-picked grapes grown single vineyard heavily botrytis-infected estate-grown grapes heavily botrytised coonawarra valley late-harvested semillon fruit which quite margaret river cabernet sauvignon silver grenache packaged those unirrigated bush-pruned vines principally shiraz grown seppelt great western grapes grown loamy willunga relatively low-yielding estate-grown grapes yarra valley grapes estate-grown limited quantities now-mature estate plantings versions being major unoaked version using lakey describes technology mainstream@ makers malolactic marion@ marlborough's@ material matured maximum mclaren medal medals merchant merlot mid-1993@ minor moment months montview second chardonnay nicholson river mourvedre muscats named named honour veteran winemaker stockhausen neatly nevers@ relatively low-yielding estate-grown grapes riesling grapes which botrytis affected shiraz grown mclaren langhorne block riesling substantial classic blend chardonnay pinot initial 2-hectare plantings semillon muscadelle grape minor component hectares estate-grown cabernet unquestionably inferior bachtebel clone selection hectares estate parcels fruit harvested different ripene verdelho clean direct style harvested riesling picked early low-yielding mclaren shiraz fortifi vines planted mariginiup vineyard yarra valley grapes estate-grown classically uncomplicated fashion night-harvested consistent style throughout 1990s always showi deliberately direct unwooded-style gently no-frills fashion given hours contact no-frills style quite excellent no-frills unoaked style vintage particularly full-blown sometimes rustic style quite different mould margaret river different style other consistently unashamedly commercial mould contact uncomplicated direct style years unwooded style consistent quality wooded unwooded versions barrel-f canterbury marlborough-grown grapes consulta limited quantities now-mature estate plantings mainstream barossa-style plenty fruit mainstream marlborough-style unoaked minuscule quantities grapes purchased similar dense concentrated style similar style similar winemaking philosophies quantities barely commercial modern style without early bottled modern unwooded style fermented modern unwooded style showing high- possible extensive stainles traditional hunter fashion unoaked begging traditional hunter-style without resorting traditional style american making signifi styles unwooded version released earlier versions being major unoaked version uncompromising barossa-style fruit grown limited quantities these released described somewhat old-fashion debut intervening years debut grapes harvested seddon needless estate-grown grapes barrel-fer primarily estate-grown grapes which barrel primarily riesling grown strathbogie ranges solely riverina-grown grapes suite solely 5.2-hectare vineyard established solely low-yielding mendoza clone through using cordon technique which involves cutting using gamut pinot techniques using panoply winemaking techniques using lakey describes technology meticulous attention detail clear intention obtaining every ounce european approach almuth lorenz typical multi-region sourcing without which understandable bolstered without estate-grown grapes produce madeira madeleine madfish magazine magazine's magic magical magill maglieri magnificent magnificently magnum mailing mainU mainland mainland-grown mainly mainstay mainstream maintained majella majestically major majority mistake about orange region means maker maker's makers makers makes makeup makingB malbecU malbecs malolacticv malolactic malolactic-fermentat malpas mamre man'sM managed management manager manages managing mangatahi mania manifest manifestation manifested manipulation manjimup manner manyH great leconfield cabernet sauvignons appeared observers believe merlot rather cabernet march margarett marginal marginally maria maria's marienberg marienberg vineyards relying mariginiup mariners marion maritime maritime-cooled mark's marked markedly marketN marketed marketing marketplace marking marks marks partial return building marlborough marlborough's marlborough-grown marlborough-grown unoaked marlborough-sourced marlborough-style marques marquis marriage married marry marsanne marsh martin martinborough martinborough/wairar marvellous marvellously mary's marybrook masquerading masses massive massively master masterclasses mastered mastering masterly masterpieces masters masterton matador matariki mataro matawhero matched matching material material matter matters matua maturationr mature mature vines adams winemaking stamp produce mature-release maturedN matured matures maturingB maturity maurice maximise maximised maximum maximum maxine maxwell maxwell produces shiraz-based wines ellen street maxwell early experimenters merlot maxwell's maybe mccabe mccall mccallum's mccarthy mccorkindale mccreanor mcdonald mcguigan mcintyre mckenna mclarenM mclaren mclaren adjacent hills proved mclintock mcnamara mcwilliam'sl mcwilliam's winemaker brayne mastered technicall meadowbank meaning means meant measure measures medalt medal medal-winning medallist medals medals medical medium medium-bodied medium-term medium-toast meets melba melbourne_ melton memorable memorial memories memory mendoza mentelle mention mentioned mentioning mentor menzies merbein merchant merchant mercifully merging merit meritorious merits merlen merlen's merlotU merlot merlot happ's speciality happs merlot varieties included hecta merlot-dominant merlots merrill meshach message metala metamorphoses method methode methods^ meticulous metre metres meunierv michael michael brajkovich holds firmly auckland region micro microscope microwave mid-1970s mid-1990s mid-1993 mid-1994 mid-1995 mid-1997 mid-70s mid-995 mid-april mid-january mid-march mid-market mid-may mid-price mid-priced mid-range mid-year middle middle-aged middle-vintage midpointG midst might milawaw mildara mildara's mildew mildews mildly mildura miller millers millinup million mills millton minerally mini-vertical minimalW minimum minor minor mintaro minty minuscule minute minutes miracle miracles miraculous miramar miramar leading producers chardonnay miranda miranda unabashed supporters miranda's miranda/rovalley mirror mirrored misfortune mislead misnomer missed misses missile-shaped missing mission mission vineyards first producers missouri mistake mistakenly mitchell mitchells mitchelton mitchelton adopts precisely opposite approach chateau mixed mixtureO model moderately modern modes modest modestly modify moist moisture mokoan molloy moment moment momentarily monde mondeuse mondeuse imported australia specifically mondiale money montana montana's montana's brancott estate photograph montara month month's monthsc months montrose montrose followed closely footsteps neighbour montrose established italian-born engineers carlo montview montview second chardonnay nicholson river monument monumental moondah moorilla moppa moreG moreau moreys mornington morrisG mortals morton morton's mostB most-awarded mostly moteo mother moularadellis mouldI moulds mount mount horrocks originally wine-production mountadam mountain mountains mountford mountview mourvedre mourvedre moutere mouth} mouthfeel mouthfilling mouthfilling-style mouthful mouthwateringly moved movement movers moves moving mozart muchr attention focused mount much-awarded much-bemedalled much-touted much-underrated mudgee mudgee-grown mulberryc muller multi multi-district multi-regionM multi-regional multi-trophy multiple multiple vineyard sites multiple pickings multiple vintages available winery multiplicity multiply multitude multitudinous munzbergc murchison murphy murphy's murray murrumbatemano muscadelleH muscatH muscatsI muscats muscle muscular museum mvig-1 myself mysteriously mystery mystic mythical nagambie nameB named named named after nineteenth-century pioneer surveyor robert named after one-tonne which ignati named after alexander berry edward wollstonecraft named after maglieri owner founder steve maglieri named after coonawarra's pioneer viticulturists named after peter louise fergusson's jeremy named after third fergusson children produced named after alexander berry founders named honour burton hamilton richard named honour colin preece great winemakers named honour harold viticulturist point named honour visionary viticulturist romeo bragato named honour veteran winemaker stockhausen namely names nanyaB naracoorte narrow narrowly national nationally native naturalD naturally nature nautilus near_ near-sand nearby nearest nearing nearly neatly neatly nebbiolo necessarilyE necessary necessity necessity probably mother invention needed needing needless needless estate-grown produced carefully needs neerim neglect negociants neighbour neighbouring neill neither nellie nelson nepenthe nesbit nestles nestling network neudorf neudorf's neutral never nevers newell newer newest newly newly introduced vintage blend caber newly packaged design label terrace newsletter nextr ngakirikiri ngakirkiri ngarurora ngatarawa nicely nicholas nicholson nickname nicknamed night night-harvested nights nine-year-old nineteenth nineteenth-century ninety ninth ninth island previous tasmania nioka particular region origin claimed region origin claim front label no-frills ninth island previous tasmania no-frills nominal@ north notably nowhere oakvale octavius super-premium yalumba first vintage often current releases clarendon hills oldest legitimately argue about level surprisingly rieslings grown northern pioneers quality sauvignon blanc mclaren possessed arguably distinctive labe@ limited quantities reserve wines typica@ opposite other years which performed no-frills no-holds-barred no-nonsense nobilo noble noir_ noirs_ nomenclature nominal nominate nominated non-botrytised non-interventionist non-irrigated non-reserve non-sparkling non-stop non-vintage non-winemaking non-wooded nonetheless noongar normal normally normally blend cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc normally chardonnay produced jackson estate normans norrie northH north north-eastern north-facing northeast northeast-facing northeastern northern northwest norwood nostalgia common blend mclaren drawing little major hunter's line-up attractive dalfarras wines different style might expect ultimate chardonnay statement label might suggest single vineyard first tuck's ridge produced striking class neudorf's chardonnay nonetheless every conditions surprisingly almuth lorenz makes chardonnays using surprisingly medal clare valley confused though inevitably lindemans not-so-original notable notably notably notedt notes noteworthy nothing noticedw notion notley notorious notwithstanding notwithstanding rosemount's domicile upper hunter notwithstanding strong protestations contrary notwithstanding inability spell mourvedre notwithstanding cabernets almost entirel notwithstanding scott-henry trellis notwithstanding pretentious label nourish nouveau november firmly established clonakilla's indeed blass wendy stuckey grapes named after lovedale vineyard which comes produced entirely hectares estate-grown produced vidal's vineyard ngakirkiri planted now-mature nowhere nowhere nucleus numberX numbering numbers numerous nursery nutty/buttery nyrang o'callaghan o'keefe o'leary o'shea oak-aged oak-driven oak-influencedb oak-matured oaked oakey oakridge oakvale oakvale oakvale produces wooded unwooded chardonnay oatley obscure observation observers observes obtain obtained obtaining obviousE obviously obviously enough blend cabernet sauvignon shiraz obviously enough brother reserve chardonnay obviously enough sister winemakers selection occasion occasionalB occasionally occasions occupation occupies occur occurred occurrence occurring occurs ocean oceans octaves octavius octavius super-premium yalumba first vintage october octogenarian oenotech off-again off-putting offence offer offered offering offers official offsets finest selection coming oftenD often challenging suspects there often lacking fruit richness heggies merlot often somewhat lighter biggest wines wellingto often current releases clarendon hills often successful bream creek wines challenge ohiti old-fashioned old-style old-timers old-vine olderO oldest oldest olive oliver omaka omihi omitted omnipresent omrah on-again on-going on-site again steve pulled something ordina again perhaps unfashionable little known again great about which once-unfashionable assumes label cabernet sauvignon wonder huberts attains sweetness legitimately argue about level legitimately argue about level bernard abbott's years vasse felix throu hundred barrel-fermented blend hundred barrel-fermented french followed hundred botrytis semillon sourced single hundred cabernet sauvignon fermented hand-p hundred estate-grown vines varying hundred estate-grown components picked hundred hunter valley chardonnay machine harves hundred semillon picked abbey vale's wildw super-premium fortified wines produced series grove single-variety single-vineyard australia's best-known tawny ports barossa mclaren vale's distinguished shiraz wines zealand's highly rated chardonnays drawn surprisingly rieslings grown northern better penfolds white wines although tends exceptionally varietal gamays produced varietal cabernet francs being austra first producers cabernet merlot australia great classic hunter valley semillons produced wines rockford always limited elegant refined australian chardonnays understated classic wines produced entirely distinguished striking wines exotic blends found australia highly regarded hawke's chardonna interesting roses currently australi unwooded chardonnays pioneers chardonnay white makin pioneers quality sauvignon blanc mclaren quartet reserve white wines released yarra valley gewurztraminers which signature wines katnook estate small wellington/wairarapa vineyards which suppor specialities winery since vintage sporadic limited release wines charles sturt thundering unwooded chardonnays reaso half-dozen shirazes australia flag-bearers bremerton lodge other zealand rieslings without wines fulfil promise three wines quality rothbu chardonnays produced simon hackett wines lennards brook entered possessed arguably distinctive unusual feature produced would surprised lakewood capitalise one's one-off one-third one-tonne one-year one-year-old ongoing onlyK half-bottles cases seasonal variation normans crush estate-grown remainder includ cases pinot produced hectare cases really side-line lenswood vineyards coming bailey carrodus could limited quantities which price seems limited quantities reserve wines typica intermittently vineyard conditions permit produced seasonal conditions permit rarely chenin blanc produce memorable outside rocky o'callaghan could possibly three vintages released quantities onset onwards obscure designation which delighted openq open-fermented opened openingD operated operation opinion opinions opportunity opposed opposite opposite oppositesW oppressively optima optima specialised german crossings optimising option opulence opulent opulently orange orchard orchards ord's order ordinary oregon organic organically organically-grown organised orientation origin original originally originally sourced lower hunter valley originally flag-bearer supplanted winemak originsw orlando orlando chardonnay stands roland orlando's ormond osborn osborne oscillated osicka otago otherb other other knappstein blanc which incorporates others otherwiseI ought ounce out-performed outbuildings outclassed outcome outcrops outpaced outperformed outperforming outpointing output outset outside outside chinon region loire valley outskirts outstanding ovens overN 20-year privileged taste years which performed years blackwood claim years rieslings accumu years ingoldby produced quite wonderful years moorilla estate produced quite exhil over-cropping over-extracted over-extractive over-oaked over-ripe over-size over-the-top over-wooded overall overall shiraz performer classy overblown overcome overcrop overcropped overdone overlook overlooking overlooks overnight overripe overseas overshadowed overstated overtaken overtones overwhelmed overwhelming overwhelmingly overworked owing owned owner owners ownership ownerships oxidation oxidatively oyster pacesetters pacific package packaged packaged distinctive ceramic glass bottle packaging packed packet paddock padthawayO overwhelmingly@ padthaway relaunch leonards label particularly penfolds percentage@ periods@ peterkin@ picked pinot placed plantings pleasant porongurups@ poured@ predominantly preferred presumably repository pieces primarily prior release vintage might argued@ produced produced entirely padthaway-grown grapes ultra-@ produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares grapes dunsborough vine@ produced hectares estate vineyards produced hectares estate plantings shows produced hectares estate-grown grapes padthaway padthaway-grown palate palates palliser palmer palmers palomino pander panel pannell panoply paracombe's paradise paradoxical paralleled parallels paramount parcels parchment parent parents paringa parker paroxysm estate-grown sourced other yarra valley range yalumba wines released predom range wines which appear sporadically utilising suite white wines maxwell which veritable cascade labels which tumbled mysteriously labelled mid-range series hastings valley reserve range cassegrain hugely successful italian range produced newly introduced premium range highfield portfolio wines which garnered briar ridge relaunch leonards label riverina wines juggernaut liquorland robard butler range which extends tank-fermented barrel-fermented part-completed part-time partalunga partial partially partially barrel-fermented entirely hawke's particular particularlyw particularly particularly tasted company mainland-grown partlyo partner partners partnership parton parts party passed passing passion passionate passionfruit passionfruit/goosebe patch patches patience_ paton patrick pattern pattersons pattie conti developed carabooda vineyard early paul's paulett peachy peachy/buttery peake peaking peccadilloes peculiar pedigree pedralba pegasus pegasus produced astonishing deeply coloured pejoratively pellion pelorus peloursin pemberton pemberton various prophets notably gladstone pemberton-warren pemberton/warren penchant pendarves penetration penfold penfoldsN penfolds penfolds wines produced sporadically penguin peninsula peninsula-style penley pennington people pepper pepper/spice peppermint peppertree peppery peppery/spicy percentage percentages perceptible perception peregrination perfect perfection perfectly performanceN performed performer performers performing performs perfumed perhaps perhaps interesting chain ponds perilously period periods permanent permanently permit permitting perpetual persevered perseveres persistent personal personalityh personally personification personifies perspective persuaded persuasion pertaringa pertaringa finest vineyards mclaren pertht perth-based perth/sheraton perverse perversely perversely bottled green claret-shaped bottle pesticides petaluma petaluma's peter peter cumming always generously flavoured const peter lehmann joined ever-swelling grape peter schulz effectively turkey vigneron peterkin peterson petersons petit petit verdot least known principal bordeaux petite petrie petrus pewsey phase phenolic phenomenal phenomenon philip phillip phillipa phillips philosophiesW philosophy phoenix phomopsis photograph photographed phrase phrased phyll phyll pattie chardonnay maker stated phylloxera-affected physical physiological piccadilly pichon-laland picked picked picked two-week period march mid-a picking pickings picks picnic picture picturesque piece pieces piercingly pigeage pikes pinchem pineau pineau spelling pinot sparkling pinney pinotE pinot pinot first plantings gibbston valley pinot consistently outstanding rochfo pinotsE pinpointing pioneer pioneered pioneers pipeliner pipers pirie pirramimma pirramimma hectares chardonnay product pitched pizzini place placed placed places placing plain plains plant planta plantagenet plantedE planting planting vineyard commenced early 1980s plantingso plantings plateau played playingB plays pleasant pleasant pleasantly please pleased pleasing pleasurableb pleasureh plenty plummy plunging plunkett plunketts plush poacher's pockets poet's point pointed pointing points pokolbin polarW polarise polarised polarises policy polishU ponder ponds poorM poorer popes popular popularityH porongurup porongurups portfolio portion portions ports portuguese porty poses position positioned positive positively possess possessed possesses possessing possible possiblyb post-fermentation potaka potel potent potential potts poured pousse powdery powerE powerful powerfully powerhouse practice practices practitioner praise praised prayer pre-dates pre-eminent pre-fermentation pre-mildara pre-release precariously precedes preceding precious precipitated precise precisely precluding preconceived predates predecessor predecessors predominant predominantly predominantly predominantly cabernet sauvignon small percentage predominantly cabernet sauvignon small percentage predominantly cabernet sauvignon small quantities predominantly pughs vineyard hectares predominantly estate-grown shiraz significa predominantly shiraz little viognier scraps predominantly sourced kings creek vineyards predominantly sourced estate vineyard preece prefer preferable preference prefermentation preferredH preferred preferring prefersh prejudice premier premises premiumB prepared present present-day presented presenting presents preservative-free preserve preserving press pressedq pressing pressings prestige prestigious presumably presumably repository pieces pretender pretensions pretentious prettier pretty preventing prevents previous previously previously called hermitage re-badged shiraz priceP price-cutting priced prices pricing pride prides pridmore prigorje primarily primarily primaryG prime primo prince princess principal principally principally hectare estate plantings print priorv prior contract-grown fruit prior vintage adams acquired hectares prior release vintage might argued prior vintages often shown pronounced prisoners private privileged prized prizes probability probable probably problem problematically problems proceedings proceeds process proclaimingK proclaims procure produce producedB produced produced produced produced katnook estate wines estate- produced label indicates blend young produced riesling occasio produced entirely hectares estate plantings produced entirely cabernet sauvignon merlot grown produced entirely estate-grown grapes matured produced entirely estate-grown grapes coming produced entirely hectare estate plantings produced entirely martinborough grapes barrel-fe produced entirely padthaway-grown grapes ultra- produced entirely pinot grown hectares produced hectare trellis-trained produced hectares 15-year-old cabernet sauvignon produced hectares chardonnay planted produced hectare cabernet sauvignon produced hectare estate merlot grown planti produced hectare estate plantings produced hectare estate plantings raises produced hectare estate plantings underlines produced hectare estate plantings charlie brydon produced hectare estate plantings which produced hectare estate plantings clones produced hectare riesling planted produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings grapes produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings competently produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings initi produced hectares estate shiraz produced hectares immaculately maintained estate produced hectares low-yielding dry-grown vines produced hectares sauvignon blanc estate-grown produced hectares low-yielding vines produced hectares estate plantings well-drain produced hectares grapes dunsborough produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares close-planted low-yie produced estate-grown grapes barrel-fermented produced hectares estate-grown grapes produced hectares estate plantings grown produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings competentl produced hectares estate plantings established produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings usually produced hectares estate sauvignon blanc produced hectares estate sauvignon blanc produced hectares estate semillon without produced hectares estate vineyards produced hectares estate-grown grapes typically produced hectares estate-grown sauvignon blanc produced hectares riesling clones includi produced hectares semillon grown uniquely produced hectares estate plantings early produced hectares estate plantings elevati produced hectares estate plantings style produced hectares estate vineyards planted produced hectares chardonnay situated produced hectares estate vineyards perfo produced hectares estate plantings silver produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings shows produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate vineyards quality produced hectares estate plantings interesting produced hectares estate plantings established produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares low-yielding estate plantings produced hectares sauvignon blanc owned produced hectares shiraz hectares caber produced hectares low-yielding estate plantin produced hectares chardonnay grown carey produced hectares estate plantings right produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate-grown grapes produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings fruit produced 30-year-old vines grown vineya produced hectares cabernet sauvignon cabernet produced hectares estate plantings almost invariab produced hectares estate plantings under produced hectares estate plantings polish produced hectares estate-grown grapes along produced hectares low-yielding grapes especially produced hectares shiraz owned adams produced hectares estate plantings technical produced hectares estate plantings light produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate plantings barrel-ferm produced hectares estate plantings pokolbin produced hectares estate-grown grapes produced hectares existing plantings further produced hectares estate plantings produced pinot chardonnay grown produced hectares estate shiraz matured produced hectares estate-grown grapes which accoun produced hectares estate plantings several produced hectares cabernet sauvignon grown produced hectares estate plantings right produced hectares which largest produced hectares estate plantings produced hectares estate planting quality produced hectares estate plantings invariably produced 1.3-hectare estate planting really produced hectares estate plantings pokolbin@ produced blend semillon sauvignon blanc produced little hectare estate plantin produced charles sturt's vineyards surrounding produced grapes grown marlborough's awatere valley produced grapes grown somerset vineyard oakey@ produced low-yielding grapes grown riverina regi@ produced kauwhata grapes months produced saint clair estate vineyards wairau@ produced blass's significant vineyard holding@ produced partly hectares estate plantings producing early-bottled riverland promise provided qualifications quantities quite ralph@ rapidity reaction@ produced blend semillon sauvignon blanc produced blend mclaren adelaide hills produced blend watervale polish hill-grown produced careful selection estate produced fraction under hectares old-vine estate produced little hectare chardonnay planted produced little hectare estate plantings produced little hectares estate-grown produced little hectares estate plantings produced little hectares estate-grown grape produced little hectares estate-grown produced little hectares estate vineyards produced little hectares relatively low-yie produced little hectares estate plantings produced little hectare estate plantinantin produced little hectare estate plantin produced little under hectare estate plantings produced little under hectare estate plantings produced little under hectares low-yielding produced estate-grown contract-grown grape produced select riverland growers separa produced selection estate-grown grapes produced single 1.5-hectare block mourvedre produced single vineyard marlborough's cooler produced single vineyard mclaren pleasa produced single vineyard planted cabernet produced estate-grown blend cabernet sauvignon produced low-yielding vineyard which explain produced chardonnay grown adelaide hills produced charles sturt's vineyards surrounding produced charles sturt's vineyards surrounding produced dry-grown grapes storton's vineyard produced estate plantings ironstone produced estate-grown fruit eyton-on-yarra draws produced estate-grown grapes another medal produced estate-grown grapes bottled tiraged produced estate-grown grapes chambourcin particularl produced estate-grown grapes grown hectares produced estate-grown grapes which particular produced estate-grown grapes clones barrel produced different vineyard sites around kumeu produced fully-mature estate vineyards established produced grapes grown creek vineyard produced grapes grown maglieri blewitt spring produced grapes grown mcwilliam's long-serving winem produced grapes grown marlborough's awatere valley produced grapes grown small local vineyards produced grapes grown hilltops region produced grapes grown riverina barossa valle produced grapes grown cambridge river produced grapes grown hectare vines produced grapes grown small clare valley vineya produced grapes grown orlando's helga vineyard produced grapes grown punters corner victoria produced grapes grown brentwood vineyard produced grapes grown estate vineyard which produced grapes grown florance vineyard cygne produced grapes grown hillside vineyard tukit produced grapes grown renwick vineyard produced grapes grown potaka estate silty produced grapes grown somerset vineyard oakey produced hectare 18-year-old vines producing produced hectare estate plantings produced hectare estate plantings fermen produced hectare estate plantings which produced hawke's fruit fermented stainless produced hawke's grapes first produced heavily botrytised semillon grapes grown produced hillstowe's buxton vineyard established produced houghton's large frankland river vineyard produced hunter valley grapes predominantly produced under hectare estate-grown riesling produced under hectare estate-grown produced low-yielding barossa valley shiraz typical produced low-yielding estate-grown vines approachin produced low-yielding grapes grown riverina produced mature low-yielding vines which encouraged produced mendoza clone chardonnay grown awatere produced merlot coming lowest-yielding section produced merlot grown marlborough cabernet sauvi produced 70-year low-yielding vines produced low-yielding dry-grown barossa shiraz produced low-yielding shiraz vines grown produced organically-grown sauvignon blanc planted produced hectares estate plantings produced relatively low-yielding vineyards shing produced riesling grown estate banks produced roughly equaly quantities grapes grown produced slightly hectares estate-grown produced small patches low-yielding shiraz scatt produced kauwhata grapes months produced hectares estate plantings sauvig produced 11-hectare point vineyard marlborou produced hectares estate plantings across produced 21-hectare heemskerk estate vineyards produced hectares estate plantings which surro produced 6-hectare whitecliff vineyard established produced estate-owned draycott vineyard hence produced extensive plantings owned barry produced gully blocks hollyclare produced half-hectare estate plantings produced heart hectares estate plantings produced hillside vineyards blackjack produced dry-grown vineyards surrounding produced oldest vines which ultra-close planted produced saint clair estate vineyards wairau produced small hillside block front evans produced small-berried mendoza clone chardonnay produced small-berried mendoza clone which produced substantial pertaringa vineyard establishe produced unirrigated villa block produced three vineyards nagambie produced three-quarters hectare estate-grown produced ultra-close-planted vines metres produced unirrigated vineyards scottsdale produced verdelho predominantly grown produced vines dating harvested produced vines grown stony river flats ohiti produced vines grown waimea plains brightwate produced relatively estate vineyards produced blass's significant vineyard holding produced consistent style which appeal those produced conventional late-picked modes produced direct full-flavoured style again consiste produced limited quantities exported australia produced limited quantities relatively small produced minuscule quantities these packaged produced small quantities cases flags produced typically elegant restrained style produced quantities 5-hectare vineyard plante produced limited quantities little produced limited quantities small estate produced needless minuscule quantities produced ballarat-grown grapes bendigo produced vintages three wines produced partly hectares estate plantings produced predominantly plantings cabernet sauvig produced predominantly pinot selected parcels produced solely grapes grown various vineyards produced using freeze concentration unfermented juice producer producers produces producingt producing early-bottled riverland product production products professional professionally professor profile profiles profound profoundly programme programmesM progress progression progressively projected prolific prolonged prominence prominent prominently promise promise promisesq promising promotional prompted promptlyO prone pronounced proof propagated propelled propelling propensity proper property prophets proponents proportion proportioned proportions proposition propped proprietary proprietor proprietors prospect prospects protect protected protection protective protects protestations proud proudly prove proved proven provenance proverbial proves provide provided provided provides providingE province proving provocative proximity prune public pughs pulford pulled pulling puncheon puncheons pungent punters purbrick purchase purchasedB purchasers purchases purchasing purely purity purple purpose purposes pushed pushing putting puzzle pyrenees pyrus qantas qualifications qualifications qualityP quantitiesH quantities quantity quantum quarrel quarter quarters quartet quartz quasi-chablisr quealy quealy mccarthy believers virtues quealy/harris queen queen's queensland queensland-grown quelltaler quest question questionable questions quibble quibbles quick-developing quick-maturing quicker-developing quickly quiet quite quite quite evidently specially selected parcels quite obviously using array burgundian quite simply testament murphy's winemaking skills rabbit rabbits rack-dried rack-matured racked racking rackings radburnd radenti radical radicallyW radke rain-affected rained rainfall rains raises raisin raisined raisining rakaia ralph randall rangeG ranged} ranges rangi ranging ranked ranking ranks ranks second armagh shiraz terms price rapaura rapid rapidity rapidity rapidly rarely rarer rarest rarity rateb ratedX rates rathbone ratherE ratingb ratio rationalisation rattray rawson rawson's rayner rayner's razor's re-badged re-launch re-released reach reached reaches reaching reaction readily reads ready ready-to-drink realised reality reallyB really impressed vintage which true-blue reappearance reappraisal reason reasonable reasonably reasons reblended rebound recalling recalls receive received received bronze medal south wales small received bronze medal zealand receives receiving recentB recently recioto recognise recognised recognition recommended recordP records recovery received bronze medal zealand refinements@ region reintroduced release released under so-called label introduced remembered@ reputation's@ resource@ retention richly riesling ripeh river rothesay@ sauvignon scottsdale selected three finest estate blocks being hand@ semillon serious@ sharefarmers@ shiraz short showed shows significantly simply since jeffrey grosset sourced chardonnay skills small socrates@ sometimes sourced sourced variety vineyards spread capel redbank redbrook redeems redman reduce reduced reducing reduction redwood reference refermented refers refine refined refinement refinements reflect reflected reflecting reflection reflects refocusing refreshingly refreshingly different style sauvignon blanc altho refurbished regained regard regarded regardless regards regent regime regimen regionU region region's regional regional/varietal regionally regionsM registered registers regretting regular regularity regularly reids reincarnation reinforce reintroduced reintroduced reintroduced vintage-dated reiterated rejoins related relationship relative relativelyP relaunch relbia releaseB release release/winemakerB releasedH released honour great released seemingly deliberate challenge released under label blend cabernet released under so-called label introduced releasesr releasing relegated reliable reliance relied relief relies religion relish reluctance reluctant relyingE remain remainder remained remaining remains remark remarkable remarkably remember remembered remembering reminds reminiscent remote remoteness remove removed renaissance renamed rendition renowned renwick repackaged repackaged slender clear glass olive repay repays repeated repeating replace replaced replaces replacing replanted replete replete striking label photograph jarra replicas repositioned repositioning repository represent represented representing represents reproduced reputationN reputation's require required_ requirements requires requisite reschke resemblance resembles reservations reserveb reserved residence residual resistance resistant resisted resolved resorting resource resources respect respectable respected respectively respects respond response responsible restaurant restaurants restoration restored restrained restricted restricts result resultant resulted resulting results resurgence resurgent retail retailers retain retaining retains retasting retention retention retirement retreat return returned returning revamp reveal reversal reverse reversion revert reverted reverting review reviewed reviews revival rewarded reynella reynolds rhine rhone^ rhone-influenced^ rhone-inspired rhone-style ribbon richG richard riche richert richest richly richly richly flavoured juicy typical mudgee style course richmond richness ridden riddoch ridge riedel rieslingo riesling riesling consistent medal winners riesling proved itself suited canterbury riesling-makers rieslings riggs right right outset gibbston valley hesitated right outset estate-grown rightful righthand rightly rights rigid rigorous riley rimfire rimfire utilises estate-grown grapes grapes purchas ringland ripeh ripenh ripened ripenessi ripening ripens riper ripest ripper risen rises rising rivalryW rivals riverU river river-sourced river-style river/richmond riverbed riverina riverina-grown riverlandB rivers riverview roads robard robb's robert robert stein produced absolutely marvellous shiraz roberts robertson robin robinson robinsons robinvale robust rochford rocket rocketing rockford rockley rocky rodney roger roland roleB rolls roman roman bratasiuk achieves things merlot romanee romantic romeo rookh roost rorhlach rosabrook rosabrook estate still early pannell rose-style rosee rosehill rosemount rosemount making reserve shiraz low-yielding rosemount's rosemount's reserve label means reall roses roseworthy rossa roster rotary rothbury rotherhythe rothesay rothvale rouge roughly rouguenant roundabouts rounded rounding roundly roundness} rounds roussane roussanne rovalley rowland roxburgh royalv royce rozenzweig shiraz named after robert strangways wigley found rubbed rukero ruled rules rumball run-down run-off runner runner-up running runrig rustic rutherglen rutherglen kelly country ryecroft rymill sacred sacrificing saddlers sadgrove saidX botrytised berry selection which matured imported casks month sailed sailing sailor sailors saint saints sales salinger salitage salitage's sally salteri saltram sameM sample sandalford sandhill sandihurst sandstone sandy sangiovese santa sappy sappy/earthy sarniaB satellite satisfaction satisfactorily sauternes sauvignonO sauvignon sauvignon sauvignon blanc grown satisfactorily canterbur sauvignon blanc always important variety sauvignon blanc first released under sauvignons saved saving quealy mccarthy marketed saying almuth lorenz riesling should delicate scalew scaled scales scanlan scarborough scarce scarcity scarpantoni scattered scenel scheduled scheme schist schmidt school schubertW schulz schuster schwarzenegger science scope score scored scores scoring scotchmans scotland scotland's scott scott-henry scottish scottsdale scottsdale scraps scrub scruff scrupulous scrupulously seabrook seafood seamlessly search season_ seasonal seasoned seaview secondB second coriole hierarchy after scarce lloyd shira second-highest second-rate second-tier second-use secondary secondly secret secrets section sector seddon see-through seeking seemed seeming seemingly seemingly focus attention bridgewa seems seguin seifried's selak selak's selaks selaks multiplicity sauvignon blanc brands seldom select selected selected three finest estate blocks being selecting selectionB selections selects self-taught selling sellsr selwin semillon semillon semillon zealand produce semillon marybrook estate under semillons semmler seniorw sensation sensational sense sensible sensibly sensitive sensitively sensory separate separated separately seppelt seppelt's seppelt's flagship methode champenoise varietal seppelts september seresin series serious seriously serve served serves service serviceable services setting settle settled settlement settling seven sevenhill sevenhill's seventy seventy-five several severe severed severing seville seymour shade shaded shadow shadows shantell shantell produced consistently cabernet sauvignon shape shaped shaping share shared sharefarmers shareholder shares shares deliciously fruit characters sharing sheep sheerP sheet shell shepherd shepherds sheratont sheraton/courier-mai sherry shield shift shine shingle shingle marlborough label matua valley almost shining shirazK shiraz shiraz arguably variety grown granite shiraz-based shirazes shirazs shoalhaven shone short short shortcomings shortly shotgun shottesbrooke shouldM showP showcase showed showed showed extremely sydney international showed extremely winewise small makers shower showered showing shown showsU shows shows high-yielding grenache long-used around shrieks shrink sickly side-by-side side-line siegerrebe siegerrebe german-bred cross gewurztraminer signature significance significantw significantly significantly significantly pinot noirs between signifying signs silence silent silty silver silvers similar similarly simon simple simple-minded simpler simply simply simultaneous simultaneously sinceN since flagship rosemount estate least since bordeaux-style blend typically composed since white moved conventional austra since winemaking carried mitchelton since jeffrey grosset sourced chardonnay since well-put-together blend yarra valley since stellar debut quite outstanding since vintage rosemount achieved since arrival hardy scene already since1994 sincerest sinewy single single-variety single-vineyard singularly sister sited sites sitsi bottom price range peter chanel underneath reserve chardonnay sitting situated situated adjacent freycinet shares remarkabl situated warmer western adelaide hills six-year sixty sixty-six skilful skilfully skilfully contract-made frills embellishments skill skilled skillogalee skills skills skilly skinr skin-contacted skins slade slate slender slight slightly slightly hectare chardonnay established slipped slipping slope slopes sloping slouch slow-developing slower slowlyD small small small parcels which susan roberts considers small-batch small-berried small-winemaker smaller smallest smart smartest smartly smith smith's smooth sneaking sneddon's sneer snows snowy aware recent introduction moorilla aware grapes harvested aware commercial pinot grigio dryland hand-pruned hand-picke so-called soaring socially society socrates soften softened softer softly softness} soils sojourn soldN cellar order initial solely solera solid solidly solids solution someN exceptionally wines appeared under label somehow someone somerset something something signature david traeger although something surprise packet coming predominantly sometimesh sometimes sometimes cabernet sauvignon sometimes produced cabernet sauvignon somewhat somewhere sonoma soon-to-be-outlawed sooner sophisticated sophisticated winemaking grapes destemmed sophistication sorrenberg sorting sorts sought souls sound source sourcedM sourced sourced entirely single vineyard upper sourced entirely estate-grown grapes blend sourced entirely hunter valley shiraz sourced number growers hawke's simply cold- sourced number vineyards macedon ranges sourced range vineyards clare valley sourced total hectare vineyards sites sourced variety vineyards spread capel sourced victoria albert block sourced botrytised semillon grown griffith regio sourced brown brothers estate milawa mystic sourced different marlborough vineyards sourced under hectare estate plantings sourced low-yielding barossa valley vines miran sourced rosemount's giants creek roxburgh vineyards sourced barnsely chaytor giles vineyards sourced lindsay vineyard situated upper sourced riverina lesser percentage sourced spread capel vale's western australia sourced large modern cowra vineyard sourced quite distinct pockets clare valley sourced vineyards nagambie valley predo sourced vineyards victoria always containing sourced predominantly gingin vineyard sourced primarily estate-grown grapes mclaren sourcesW sourcing south south-eastern southcorp southcorp chiefly through agency seppelt quite southeast southeastern southerly southern southern-most southwest spacing spadesh spanv spans spared sparkler sparklingv sourced vineyards victoria always containing sparkling spends sprang national prominence vintage stainless start@ steep stoniest@ strikingly style{ stylised success sugar sundry surged@ sweet table taking taste techniques hectares cabernet sauvignon attest hectares estate plantings windswept extremely strong class clare valley shiraz available leasingham clearview vineyards planted free-draining shing@ distinctive gingham check label hanging picn@ sparkling sparsely spartan spatlese speak speaking spearheaded specialK specialised specialist specialities speciality speciallyr specialty specific specifically specifications specified specify spectacular spectacularly spectatorX spectrumt spell spellcheck spelling spence spencer spend spending spendsv spends spent spice spiced spicy spicy/peppery spirit split sponsorship spontaneous spontaneously sporadic sporadically spotlessly spotlessly clean relatively light-bodied sprang sprang national prominence vintage spread spring spring frost damage springs square squarely huberts pinot always lived shadow leonards interesting stabilisation stable stablemate stables stafford stage stages staging stainless stainless staked stakes stakes strong claim australia's chenin blanc produ stalky/tobacco stalwart stalwarts stamp stamped stamping chifney threatened remove chardonnay stand standardb standardsN standing stands stands alongside sauvignon blanc katnook's consisten stands releases stanitzki stanley starb star-studded stardom stark starring starst start_ started startingI startling startlingly state state-of-the-art stated statement states stating station statue stature status staying steadied steadily steading steel steel-fermented steely steep steep steeplechaser steeply stein steingarten stellar stelvin stemmy stephenE stephen john's strength these emphatically sterling steve steven stevens stewart sticky still still-generous still-youthful stipulated stirred stirring stock stock-in-trade stockhausen stocks stodart stone stoneleigh stones stonewell stoney stonier's stoniest stony stonyfell stood stop-start stopped storehouse storton's story straight straight-sided straightforward straightforward making early bottling while strain strait strands strange strangways strat strathbogie streak streaks stream street strengthw strengthened strengths stretch stretching strewn strictH strictly strike strikes striking strikingly strikingly strikingly packaged generation rocket string strings stringy strip strong_ strongest strongly^ strongly flavoured positively styled first struck structural structure structured struggle stuart stuckey student study stuff stuhl stumpy stunning sturt sturt's styleD style{ style styled styles stylised stylised stylish stylishly styrene subdistrict subdistricts subdivided subdued subject subliminal submerging subregion subsequent subsequently subsoil subsoils substance substantial substantially substitution subsumed subtitle subtitled subtitled selak drove subtle subtleties subtly suburban succeed succeeded succeeding succeeds success success successes successful successfully succession successive successor succumbed suchr sudden suddenly suffer suffered suffers suffice sufficient sufficiently sugar sugar suggest suggested suggesting suggestion suggests suitability suite suitedo suits sulphide sulphur sultana summation summer summerfield summers sunbury sunday sundry sundry sunlight super super-abundant super-deluxe super-premium superb superbly superfluous superior superlative supplanted supple supplement supplementedo suppleness supplied supplier supplies supply support supported supporters supporting supports suppose supposed supremacy supreme supremely surely surely extraordinary table wines surer surged surprise surprised surprises surprising surprisingly surround surrounding surveyor survives susan susceptible suspect suspects suspended suspicion sustain sustainable sutherland sutherland always makes wines drought years sutton swallowed swallows swamp swapped swathes sweep sweeping sweetG sweet sweeten sweeter sweetness swept swings swinton swinton takes property established switched sydneyr sydney's symbiotic symbolb synergies synergy synthetic syrah systemb systems t'gallant table} table tablelands tables tahbilk tahbilk's tailored taint takeaway takenN takeover takes takes grapes hectares estate plantings expansi taking taking talented talking tally taltarni tamar tamburlaine taminga taminga grape variety which csiro tank-fermented tanks tannic tannin tannins tanunda tapestry target tarrahill tarrawarra tarter tasmania tasmania's tasmanian taste taste tasted taster tastes tasting tastingsr tatachilla's tate's tattslotto tawny taylor taylor's taylors teaching teams technical technically technique techniquesE techniques technology teeters tells telltale temperamental temperature temperature-controll temperatures tempering temple temptation ten-year tendl tended tendency tending tends tends reflect climate tenpin tentative tenth tenuous tenure termed terms terra terrace terraced terraces terrible terribly terrific terroir terrorising terry testament testimonial testimony tests teutonic textural texturally texture textured textures thanE thankfully thanks thatB that's hectare cabernet sauvignon years hectare verdelho produced jingalla's hectares pinot planted hectares sauvignon blanc spread number hectares estate vineyards drawn label hectares cabernet sauvignon attest hectares cabernet sauvignon attest vintage first release steph vintages among pinot paralleled success sister vintage magnificent which swept vintage medal intern vintage produced 100-year-old vines vintage sourced riverina valle vintage performer vintage first-crop fruit grown vintage released under label which vintage caused enormous excitement first mount barker riesling released vintage played strange tricks tasmanian hectares estate cabernet franc produce hectares estate plantings windswept hectares estate plantings produce mainstr hectares chardonnay stafford ridge hectares estate chardonnay partly directed hectares cabernet sauvignon amount 5-hectare lyncroft vineyard owned geoff slade thoroughly impressive vintages entered tasma vintage first cabernet released surprise packet hunter's tasted winner medal royal melbourne vintages tasted vintage proved emphatically vintage received trophy chardonnay vintage placed first 75-strong class extremely strong class vintage multiple trophy winner vintage gisborne fruit silver medal winner barossa trophy medal winner royal exceptional achievement difficult vintag label equivocal about regional sources barrel-fermented chardonnay enormously successf clare valley shiraz spent years basic riesling buring range sourced bastard chardonnay pinot launc range introduced market early benchmark capercaillie produced predominantly chardonnay picked riper degrees versus clare valley shiraz available leasingham clare valley shiraz available leasingham known chateau tahbilk's wines illustriou known balgownie wines height estate-grown grapes selected white doonkuna wines usually blend average years blend shiraz cabernet sauvignon first blend cabernet sauvignon malbec blend cabernet malbec clare valley specialty blood brother peter lehmann riesling botobolar vineyard granted certified organic buxton vineyard produces cabernet merlot shiraz cabernet sauvignon other performer classic blend semillon sauvignon blanc together classic release cabernets first marketed clearview vineyards planted free-draining shing river region relatively arrival river region rivals tamar valley capacit cold-climate ridge vineyard peculiar things combined efforts martinborough river commercial sauvignon blanc planting dates continental climate barwang vineyard marked converse blanc blancs entirely pinot climate macedon ranges clearly suited corbans estate low-priced range wines series chardonnay block comes small planting 25-year cottage block range corbans marlborough crofters range wines first released diamond valley label denotes wines grapes distinctive gingham check label hanging split personality grams litre elderton wines always full-flavoured elegantly labelled reserve series wines valley chenin blanc matured months estate hectares cabernet sauvignon estate range replaces private range estate vineyards approaching years evans family continues multiply ideal evocative graveyard derives evocatively named abbott's prayer links history experience radburnd shows through extensive chardonnay plantings cloudy almost vineyard called granite hills fairhall estate montana primarily planted falcon vineyard selected potential produc family reserve range brown brothe fermoy estate reserve range limited first cabernet sauvignon released grant burge first cabernet sauvignon produced after first commercial release first fruits parker coonawarra estate first merlot stumpy gully absolutely delicio first abbey catch performi first produced cousins roger trott first regional release rosemount mudgee first release matariki sauvignon blanc first release aquila estate produced limite first release gillan produced eastfields first release draycott merlot vines planted falcon vineyard selected potential produc@ first release yarrabank blend pinot front label eloquently@ hand-picked grapes whole-bunch pressed label these wines geographic confusion mountadam chardonnay accounts around total@ opulent might loosely called principal difference between private reserve chardonnay introduced effect second release which blend semil@ strikingly labelled named madfish designed treasure chest series coonawarra clarets meaning shir@ which gembrook first prominence there these first release yarrabank blend pinot first three vintages first vintage released february having first vintage cases medal first vintage delegat's oyster sauvignon blanc first vintage kraanwood pinot yielded first vintages produced grapes grown geoff first harewood estate anything first yarra valley pinot tasted largely flag-bearer collards rieslings until known flagship chardonnay mills ranking above flagship chardonnay briar ridge barrel-fermented flagship barossa valley estate grapes grown flagship pendarves sense along former chateau struggle convert front label eloquently fruit source varies gewurztraminer initially estate-grown label lansdowne chardonnay burst scene goulburn valley capable producing enormously power grapes sourced dry-grown low-yielding vineyards grapes supplied under ongoing contract whole-bunc grapes single vineyard awatere valley grapes collards rothesay vineyard waimauku grapes sourced primarily grapes 30-year-old vines growing grapes nelson grapes whole-bunch pressed direct grapes produce specified green point varietal table wines slowly steadil hand-picked grapes whole-bunch pressed hawkesbridge wines contract-made zeala hillside vineyards skillogalee years immaculately tended lalla gully vineyard produced inaugural shiraz trophy inaugural release partners medal inaugural vintage which blend influence lindemans chief winemaker phillip initial release coonawarra cabernet sauvignon under initial release seven inspiration explained intriguingly named shiraz richly deserves silver junior hastings valley chardonnays fromenteau label specify percentage components label specific about fruit sources label these wines geographic confusion label proudly proclaims grapes hand-picked longridge range product marketin pinot comes forms varietal macedon region produces number well-known sparkling mamre brook chardonnay being entirely barossa-based marion vineyard original hamilton ewell metala label originally stonyfell itself long-si midpoint tokays produced baileys coming betweeG mirror image chardonnay always full-bodied moondah brook label something misnomer fruit mornington peninsula unlikely place produce famous world sauvignon blanc internatio famous helena wines lineage going strikingly individual style paringa range mountadam chardonnay accounts around total comes adjoining vineyard which comes hunter valley homestead conjured specific grove olive names first wines released witness reserve range currently merlot shiraz create super-premium flagship wines range oakridge cabernet sauvignons reliable those obvious question classic label depictin often outstanding quality recent years omrah chardonnay first unwooded chardonna arlewood estate evidence hotham valley portfolio every margaret river region large so-called premium varietal range opulent might loosely called original plantings hectares chardonnay original primo estate harvest dessert wines original vines block planted richard over-size striking labels everyone's partalunga vineyard adelaide hills region partner oyster sauvignon blanc prominentl petaluma sharefarmers wines coonawarra petrie vineyard selection drawn blocks plunketts established hectares vineyards precise source cabernet sauvignon stated premium bordeaux-blend mildara utilising estate-gro premium sparkling seaview first prestige cabernet maxwell vintage being prestige semillon briar ridge drawn vineyards principal difference between private principal skillogalee produced hectares principal produced cowra estate drawn progress pinot sunbury macedon prospect vineyard situated across provenance zinfandel stated quality gisborne chardonnay recognised recently introduced top-of-the-range adding third brother white blend wines doonkuna particular cabernet regional varietal moved around remarkable climate freycinet vineyard reputation rieslings clare valley reserve appellation reserve barrel fermented suggests reserve chardonnay introduced effect result quite complicated winemaking architecture revival fortunes mourvedre mataro robinsons family wines always exceptionall rorhlach family growing grapes barossa rosehill vineyard shares terra rossa saints range wines relatively introduction sophisticated handling evident clearview sauvignon blanc accounts cases total sauvignon blanc component cold-fermented stainless scott henry trellis system shoalhaven ideal second label leeuwin chardonnay second label simply selection those barrels second label clearview second label katnook which progressively returned second release which blend semil second string pattersons although pinot second vintage marsanne stumpy gully semillon vines quelltaler clonal selections shantell vineyard producing high-quality chardo shepherds croft vineyard belonging shiraz always presented which encourages sister edwards chaffey shiraz sister tokay again featuring relatively entry lennards brook mount barker jaffa vineyards somewhat off-putting should mislead sourcing making similar shira omrah sailing built which regularl striking collection label introduced strikingly labelled named madfish designed style oscillated wildly years sunday creek comes western victoria where super-premium edwards chaffey range introduced super-premium hollick entirely caber langmeil describe classic example cordon describes grapes which thorn vineyard situated valley italian varietal range created garry range chardonnay wilderness estate ferme range clearview estate which throws wirilda creek limited barrel selecti top-end saddlers creek range top-of-the-line sauvignon blanc brook particul top-of-the-range chardonnay kumeu river named treasure chest series coonawarra clarets meaning distinguished wines reynolds portfolio varietal composition specified majority barossa valley semillons heavy growing conditions cope-williams macedon conditions resulted excelle unusual climate southern zealand vineyard progressively planted between vineyard planted blass vineyard planted elevation conditions vintage ideal wellington/wairarapa region seems produce excellent whitecliff range sacred moderately priced comes subregion hawke's comes vineyard estates which which gembrook first prominence barrel-fermented two-year-old french challenging because fermented fermented tanks matured month grapes hand-picked number solely low-yielding vineyards under contract frankland estate produced blend cabernet sauvignon cabeq which heggies distin which started mentelle juggernaut yarra valley famous marsanne nineteen their themselves thenI then-currently theory thereM there there hectares semillon hillside vineyard there tricks barossa valley white frontignac which there hectares shiraz robinsons which there surprisingly yarra valley varietal shirazs there marvellous petersons chardonnays there reserve shiraz which theory superio there doubt pinot mount barker region there question often baroque there great semillon grown yarra there place australia which could produce there exceedingly complex family history involved thereabouts thereafter thereby therefore theseD these these individually named vineyard wines first released thick-skinned thing things thinki thinning third third-useM thirty thirty fermented thisW blend semillon sauvignon blanc chardonnay verdel abbey vale's successful wines wines produced vintages descendant rouge homme claret engine-room coopers creek winery first wignalls cabernet sauvignon remember first produced cellarmaster's flagship chardonnay hunter valley sitti fourth vintage deadman's creek vineyard second label eyton-on-yarra still drawn second-tier chardonnay neudorf initially standard release winery standard release sourced vineyards third varietal release jenke vineyards quite simply great sparkling shiraz inspired really amazing basically consigned abbey vale's successful wines south gippsland location clearly ideally suited produced every three thrown@ sophisticated winemaking techniques took@ totally tragically included classic productio@ trial trophy turvey@ vintages typically available typically ultra-competitive under unfashionable@ unoaked picked vines which years unwooded usually style occasionally prod@ vale's@ valley value varietals@ varying fruit sources vintage victoria south gippsland location clearly ideally suited first focus attention extraordin top-pointed among rieslings blended constant quality style amasse caused sensation first released comes hectares estate plantings formed re-launch mount helen everything smartest drinker could based predominantly cabernet sauvignon blend marks important penfolds developed penfolds on-going search introduced almost years after robert largely responsible initial phenomenal vines years grown first kemblefield's vineya produced every thistle thomas thomas's thomson thorn thoroughly thorpv those though thought thousand thread threat threaten threatened threatens threats threeb three three vintages chardonnay available cellar three-quarters three-year-old threshold thriving throughM throughout throw throw-back throwback thrown throws thumbprint thumbprints thumping thundering thurgau tietjen tightD tight-grain tight-grained tightened tighter tightly adams immensely experienced winemaker creeps riesling mastered temperamental nelson climate produ turvey makes spectacular chardonnays timew time-honoured times tinge tinyw tiragedv tiraging tireless tisdall title palate better italian-style sophisticated winemaking techniques toast toasty tobacco today today's together together montrose coriole pioneers together other wine-writers judges together pinot riesling variety suited tokay tokaysG token tolerant tollana tolpuddle tonne tonnes{ murphy often managed conjure something specia top-class top-end top-of-the-line top-of-the-range top-of-the-range chardonnay hastings river vineyard top-pointed topped topping torbreck torlesse total totallyG totally totals touch tough toughen toughest toughness touriga towards toying traced tracesw traces origins first incidence track trade trade-marked trademark tradition traditionalW traditional-style traditionalist traditionally traeger tragically tragically included classic productio train trained training tramillon tramillon trade-marked proprietary blend traminer transferred transfield transformation transforms transition transported travelling treasure treat treated treatment treatments trebbiano tree's trees trellis trellis-trained trellises trellising tremendoush tremendously trend trendy trevor trial trial trialled tribute tricks tried trimmed trimming trinity trish triumph triumphant triumphantly trockenbeerenauslese trois troncais trophies trophyv trophy trophy-winning tropical trott trott's trucked truckload true-blue truly trumper trumper's trunk truth truths tuck's tucker tukituki tulloch tumbarumba tumbled turbulentX turkey turnN turned turning turns turramurra turvey tutaekurai tutaekuri twentieth twenty twenty-five twice twists vintages typically available vintages shiraz available two-thirds two-thirds fermented stainless steel two-week two-year-old typeface typical typicallyv typically typically blend chardonnay pinot pinot typically blend cabernet sauvignon malbec typically blend hawke's auckland marlborough typically harvested early small estate plant typically elegant wines which years typically reliable wyndham estate typically picked april sometimes typically picked april after tradi typically sourced vineyards tutaekurai typified typifies typing tyrrell's ullaged ultimate ultimatelyI ultra-careful ultra-close ultra-close-planted ultra-competitive ultra-competitive ultra-cool ultra-favourable ultra-late ultra-ripe ultra-scarce unabashed unadorned unaffected unambiguously unanimous unashamedly unattractive unbottled uncertain unchallenged unchanged unclarified uncommon uncomplicated uncompromising uncompromisingly unconventional unctuous under under under-appreciated underestimated undergo undergoesv undergoing undergone underline underlined underlines underlining underlying undermade underneath underpinning underpriced underrated understand understandable understandably understanding understated understatement undertone underway underwent undimmed undoubtedb undoubtedly undoubtedly slow-developing style riesling unduly uneasy unequivocally unexpected unexpectedly unfashionable unfermented unfiltered unforcedr unforgettable unforgiving unhappily unhappy unheralded uniformly unimpressed uninitiated unique uniquely unirrigated united universally universally recognised zealand's finest university university's unless unlike unlike domaine chandon sparkling wines sourced entirely unlike early estate wines martinborough unlikely unlucky unmistakable unmistakably unoaked unoaked picked vines which years unoaked-style unpleasant unprecedented unpredictable unpretentious unprocurable unqualified unquestionably unspecified unsuccessfully unsurprisingly until_ until reserve chardonnays giesen estate until mid-1997 bellingham small stocks unusual unusuallyD unusually complex winemaking techniques produce unveil unwooded unwooded unwooded masses fruit flavour unwooded chardonany joined poet's corner range unwooded-style up-market upcomingq upgrading upper upstaging upwards usage usedM useful using usual usually usually draws different vineyards mount usually style occasionally usually frankland estate wines consisten utilisation utilise utilised utilises utilises hectares estate plantings which utilising utterly vagaries valeM vale's vale/adelaide valid valleyO valley valley's valley-grown valley-owned valley-sourced valley-style valley/gingin valleysM value value vanguard vanilla variable variant variants variation variations varied varies varietalt varietals varieties varietyo variousB variously varleyK varying varying fruit sources vintage vasse vastly vaughan vavasour vavasour's veered veering vengeance ventureB verdelho verdelho grown potts bleasdale verdelho first released consistently verdot veritable versa version versions versus vertical vertically verve veryH competent tightly controlled winemaking produce expression kauwhata region climate semillon typically around baume fermented without errant characters veteran vibrant vibrantly vicinity vickery vickery's victim victor victoriaI victoria victorianH victorian-grown victory vidal's viewed viewpoint vigneron vignerons vigorousW vigorously vigour villa village vincent vinesE vines vineyardB vines vineyard vineyards vintage vintages virtue@ watson well-made western whether james phillipa daverne's granddaughter firs@ which while brown brothers pioneered botrytis riesling australi@ while temple bruer winery viticultural whitecliff wildly winemaker compton prides himself knowledge winemaking wines winner winter@ without world yarra year-in@ years yellowglen another pinot marlborough suggesting with@ yield zealand years 10-15 years@ years vineyard vineyard's vineyard-based vineyards_ vineyards vinifera vinification vinified vinimatic vinomatics vinosity vinous vintageB vintage vintage vintage-dated vintage-dependent vintaged vintaged pinot little chardonnay grown vintaged pre-mildara blass selected vintagesw vintages vintech vintners viognier virtually virtue virtues virus vision visionary visited visitor visually viticola viticultural viticultureB viticulturist viticulturists vivid volcanic volume volumes voluptuous vosges voyager voyages waechter wagga waghorn wahlquist's waiheke waiheke island continues unveil extremely impressive waimauku waimea waipara waipara/canterbury wairarapa wairau wake_ walch wales walker walking walks wander wandered wanders wandin wantirna wants warbyG warmer warmest warra warren warwick waste watch watched^ watching water watercourses waters watervale watson watson wax-lined waxed highland clans runrig system distr produced grapes grown weather webber weedy weekly weeks weighingi weight weighted welcome wellB well-above-average well-cellared well-constructed well-corked well-crafted well-credentialled well-deserved well-deserving well-drained well-enough well-handled well-judged well-known well-made well-made well-priced well-put-together well-treated wellington wellington/wairarapa wendouree wendouree's wendy western western western-facing wetter whatX flagship lincoln which what's what's prior peter lehmann riesling whatever wheel whenD first released around benchmark which seemed first released simply called first tasted simply called caberne rosemount acquired ryecroft winery ryecroft reids acquired run-down phylloxera-affected decade wirra wirra incorporated whence where where stephen bullied learned winemaking whereasi wherever whether whether james phillipa daverne's granddaughter whether mudgee really suited merlot questionable whether much-touted comparisons chateau pichon-l whichB which which which while^ while traditional hunter valley blend elsewhere while brown brothers always fortified while brown brothers pioneered botrytis riesling australi while given fairly extended maturation beyond reason while reservations about classic reserve while price terms flagship range while often montrose chardonnays catch while trendy variety shows while joadja sources output estate-grown while merlot cabernet merlot blends often produced while heavyweight means shows varietal while looking hunter valley while perhaps quite league haselgrove while semillon grown quite extensively marlborough while significant quantities semillon grown while stocks saints while dalfarras wines particularly while temple bruer winery viticultural while major estate plantings cabernet while pokolbin hills estate first planted while style dalfarras wines intended aliste while trinity three distinct areas within hawke's while viognier grown mornington peninsula whilst whimsy whisker whispering whitev whitecliff whitecliff whites whitlandsv whitmore's whittaker whole whole-bunch wholesale wholly whose widely_ widely acknowledged australia's pinot noirs wider widespread widest wigley wignalls wilderness wildly wildly wildwood will_ willespie william willow wills willunga wilson winds windswept windy wineD wine's wine-buying wine-growing wine-production wine-styles wine-tasting wine-writers winemakerE winemaker macrae since proved expertise winemaker crawford believes grapes something winemaker compton prides himself knowledge winemaker strat canning produces wines abundant charact winemaker'sG winemaker-style winemaker/owner winemakersH winemakingE winemaking winemaking family seems richard crabtree winemaking/consultin wineries winery winesB wines wines winestate winewise winnert winner winner trophy sparkling winners winningw winning medal class liquorland winter winter's wirilda wirra wisdom wished wishes wishing withB hectares shiraz dominant variety among vickery's experience impeccable contacts hectare planted sauvignon blanc humidity rainfall region vitic underlying philosophy matching variety regio withdrawn within withoutr without withstanding witness witnessed wobble wobbled wollstonecraft wonder wonderful wonderfully wood-aged wood-matured wooded wooden woodside woody woolshed wordsX work_ worked^ workers working workmanlike works worldX world world's world-class world-first worldwide worse worst worth worthwhile worthy wouldI wrath writers written wrong wyberba wyndham wynns xanadu yallambee yalumba yalumba first winery south australia yalumba's yarra yarra yarra ridge leapt blocks public yarrabank yarraman yearK offers value year's year-in year-out yearsN years yeastv yeasts yellow yellowglen yellowglen yering yeringberg another auckland district chardonnay prove worth another distinguished string vasse felix another villa maria sauvignon blanc drawn another phillip estate without another mclaren shiraz score points another label change which keeps another label mitchelton using blend another outstanding chapel utilising another pinot marlborough suggesting another riesling vintage another success mount barker another testament winemaking skills partic another attesting strength another kingston estate which reflects another margaret river which emphasises first another pemberton debut after another riverina suggesting another substantial residual another underline quality great southern another which points strange phenomenon while further evidence restoration fortunes mount hurtle immaculately yet-to-be-released yield yield yielded yielding yields{ youngD youngerw youngest youthb youthful zealand zealand zealand's zealand-style zeppel zesty zierner zinfandel zirilli years years years years years years yearsP years vintages years vintagesh 10-12 10-12 years 10-15M 10-15 years 10-20 10-20 years 15-20 15-20 years 15-20-year 15-20-year potential 15-25 15-25 years years years leave alone years 2-10r yearsr yearsE years years} years years years young again after years@ drink drink now-3 years short typically years@ years knows perhaps century@ years augustine@ lovely during peter draper's brief tenure wines gilbert quantities vintage mamre brook split itsel@ botrytis-infected@ distinctly@ first sauvignon blanc having decided sauvignon blanc hunter resisted temptation chardonnay grapes grown loamy willunga ninth island previous tasmania overwhelmingly@ produced hectares estate plantings pokolbin@ received bronze medal zealand sourced vineyards victoria always containing falcon vineyard selected potential produc@ abbey vale's successful wines vines@ years years richer dishes@ nelson vineyard@ riesling@ australia@ coriole lalla rookh semillon@ langmeil selwin's cabernet grenache shiraz@ myra@ queen adelaide woodley treasure chest claret@ white yalumba christobels white@ vineyard@ years years years years years years moreO years years years years yearsB years perhaps years years years 4-10b yearsb years depending vintage years years years yearsU years years years years years moreD years years years depending vintage years years years years yearsN yearsi years years years years years years years years years years decade according after again alone always each-way proposition corks attractive attractive young cellar remarkably basically basically drink bestW drunk young drink young young young again after years better better vintages years disgorged versions cellar century certain classic classic each-way conservatively conservatively years corks could could surprise packet years decade depending desirably desirably years developing develops develops early disgorged don't drinkt drink drink drink drink drunk years preferably earlier years years years later years now-3 years years each-way earlier early early-developing early-developing style early-drinking early-drinking style emphatically emphatically drink forever goodh structure number yearsv simply don't indefinite irrelevant knows largely largely irrelevant lastv later leave years years years long-lived long-lived years mediumq medium medium years medium years medium years medium yearsq medium years moreD necessary needed neither neither necessary recommended particular certain necessary really necessary really needed required years years years years now-10w now-10 yearsw now-2 now-2 years now-3 now-3 years now-3 years now-4 now-4 years now-5 now-5 years numberv option option years packet particular perfect perfect years perhaps possibly potential preferably probably probably short proposition quick quick-developing quick-developing style quite ready ready really recommended relatively relatively short relatively short years release remarkably required short short short short years short short quick developing short years short medium years simply structurev style surprise termq theoretically typicallyM typically 10-15 yearsM typically years typically years uncertain uncertain quite possibly years uncertain theoretically years years years years years yearsK years years vintagesW years years years vintages years years yearsX yearso years years years usually usually ready release varies varies according vintage varies usually always years versions vintage vintagesW while while young knows perhaps century yearsB years years years years young 53-'63 53-'63 virtually@ itself@ angus@ asian australian parmesan@ barbecued steak@ blanquette@ braised dishes@ casserole cheese chinese coffee petits fours@ mussels daube dishes english cheddar@ cheddar@ fresh abalone@ full-flavoured@ gippsland cheese@ grilled flounder@ herb@ jugged provencale@ light green curry dishes@ margaret river chevre mature cheese mushrooms pan-fried whitebait pasta salmon@ pizza ginger quail rtually virtually release release itself summer's morning winter's night abalone accompaniment afterG after coffee after coffee alternative cognacH after dinner fillet pasta white dishes seafood seafood white dishes shellfish light white dishes almonds alone alternativeH angels angels horseback angus angus antipasto antipasto grilled fruit-based dessert dessert anything aperitifG aperitif light d'oeuvres aperitif digestif aperitif light seafood aperitif oysters aperitif oysters shellfish aperitif shellfish aperitif sweeter seafood dishes aperitif-style apple apricot apricot souffle apricots artichoke artichoke salad artichokes aperitif digestif friends possible asian asian asian dishes asian cuisine asian cuisine kinds asian cuisine pasta asian dishes asian asian dishes asian kinds asian pasta white dishes asian prawn dishes asian prawns asian seafood asian seafood dishes asparagusD asparagus prosciutto asparagus salmon salad asparagus quiche asparagus salad asparagus hollandaise sauce asparagus prosciutto atlantic australian australian parmesan avocado avocado prawn salad avocado seafood avocado seafood salad avocado pasta avocado salad avocado seafood baked baked apple baked baked baked kidney baked schnapper balmainr balmain bugsr barbecue barbecued barbecued barbecued barbecued barbecued chops barbecued barbecued marinated steak barbecued quail barbecued barbecued barbecued steak barbecued spatchcock barbecued steak barbecued t-bone barbecued t-bone steak barossa barramundi basil beefB olives bordelaise bourguignon casserole goulash black sauce sauce provencaleB shashlik sirloin spare stroganoff wellington olives beer's berries cellar better beurre biggest biltong biscuits bisque bistecca bistecca fiorentina bistro black blanc blanquette blanquette swimmer blue-lipped blue-lipped mussels blue-lipped mussels sauce bluff bluff oysters bolognese boned boned boned boned spatchcock bordelaise borsch borscht bouillabaisse bourguignon brains brains black butter braised braised braised chinese-style braised olives braised braised dishes braised braised shanks braised braised cheek braised cheek sauce braised cheek glaze braised oxtail braised oxtail better still braised pheasant braised braised braised brasserie brasserie brasserie italian cuisine brasserie-type brasserie-type dishes bratwurst bream breast breast chicken breast breast glaze breast squab breast turkey brulee buffalo bugsr butter butterfly butterfly butterly butterly cacciatore caesar caesar salad coffee cake-type cakes calamari calf's calf's liver calf's liver italian style camembert cannelloni capsicum caramelised caramelised fruit carbonara carpaccio carpaccio carpaccio tasmanian salmon cashew casseroleM casserole casserole venison casseroles cassoulet caviar caviar grandchildren caviar course caviar shellfish cellar char-grilled char-grilled char-grilled fresh salmon char-grilled kangaroo char-grilled octopus char-grilled char-grilled char-grilled char-grilled salmon char-grilled salmon quail char-grilled steak char-grilled t-bone cheddarN cheek cheeseU cheese cheesecake cheeses cherry chevre chicken chicken chips chicken breast chicken cacciatore chicken fillets chicken fricassee chicken pasta chicken chicken poached white chicken quail chicken supreme chicken turkey chicken cashew chicken yakitori chinese chinese chinese cashew prawns chinese chicken cashew chinese chicken dishes chinese dry-fried shredded chinese mushrooms chinese fried chinese lemon chicken chinese cuisine chinese chinese cashew chinese ginger chinese prawns chinese prawns cashew chinese seafood chinese steamed chinese stir-fry chinese-style chinese-style prawn dishes chips chocolates choose chopsO chowder chump chump chops clams clams pippies coffeeH coffee chocolates coffee petits fours coffee high-quality biscuits coffee petits fours cognacH dishes meats smoked meats smoked trout tomato basil cold-smoked cold-smoked tasmanian salmon coloubiac coloubiac salmon confit confit consomme coquilles coquilles saint jacques coquilles jacques corn-fed corn-fed chicken cotechino cotechino sausages course couscous bisque lobster mornay mussels mussels shellfish prawns shellfish mayonnaise crayfish cream creamed creamed scallops creamy creamy fettuccine creamy pasta creme creme brulee crepinette crispy crispy chicken crumbed crumbed brains crumbed lamb's brains crustacea cuisine curry cutlets d'oeuvres dappled dappled sunlight datew daube daube daube decade deep-fried deep-fried calamari deep-fried chicken deep-fried quail deep-sea deep-sea delicate delicate asian dishes delicate asian seafood delicate chinese dishes delicate seafood delicate white-fleshed delicately delicately spiced seafood depends depends dessert desserts devilled devilled kidneys diane diced diced chicken diced digestif dinnerG dinosaur dinosaur dishesX dishes domestic{ doubleO double chopsO dried dried fruits dry-fried duck{ breast casserole venison risotto eggplant eggplant terrine either either aperitif english english cheddar entrecote entrecote excellent excellent aperitif fruit-based desserts expresso fillet fillet failing{ fetta fettuccine fettuccini filletP fillet fillet marrow fillet kangaroo fillet lambc fillet fillet steak fillets cheddar parmesan dishes zealand finer finest fiorentina cheddar fisho chips asian cuisine chicken consomme black butter sauce mornay terrine chicken dishes white meats slightly sweet sauce flathead flathead fillets flavoured flounder fours freshD fresh abalone fresh asparagusD fresh asparagus asian seafood fresh asparagus hollandaise sauce fresh atlantic salmon fresh fresh fruit fresh fruit fresh lobster fresh mussels fresh oysters fresh pasta fresh salmon fresh seafood fresh shellfish fresh slow-cooked salmon fresh snapper fresh tasmanian salmon fricasee fricasee chicken fricassee fricassee fried fried chicken fried oysters friends fruit fruit fruit ice-cream sweet pastries fruit fruit-based fruits full-blooded full-blooded italian cuisine full-flavoured full-flavoured asian dishes full-flavoured asian seafood full-flavoured cheddar meats full-flavoured chicken dishes full-flavoured salads full-flavoured white dishes full-flavoured white dishes italian chinese cuisine fuller-flavoured gameX jugged garfish garnished garnished lobster gazpacho gently gently spiced asian dishes gently spiced asian gently spiced asian dishes george ginger ginger ginger prawns gippsland gippsland cheese gippsland glaze globe globe artichoke globe artichokes hollandaise sauce gnocchi gnocci goat's goreng goulash grandchildren grass-fed grass-fed scotch fillet gravlax green green salad green salad hazelnut grill grilledo grilled grilled bream whiting grilled calf's liver grilled chicken grilled chops grilled chump chops grilled eggplant grilled fisho grilled flounder grilled kidneys grilled chops grilled grilled quail grilled rabbit grilled steak grilled salmon grilled sardines grilled scallops grilled scampi grilled south australian whiting grilled spatchcock grilled tasmanian salmon grilled chops grilled white-fleshed grilled whiting guacamole guinea guinea sauce guinea turkey guineafowl haddock hamburger course squab haunch haunch hawkesbury hawkesbury oysters hawkesbury river oysters hazelnut hearty hearty fetta cheese pastry herbed herbed high-class high-class hamburger high-quality high-quality highly highly flavoured seafood dishes highly spiced meats highly spiced hollandaise homemade homemade fruit ice-cream honey honey chicken honey prawns honey-baked honey-baked honey-glazed honey-glazed served honeyed honeyed chicken d'oeuvres d'oeuvres asian d'oeuvres oysters horseback honey-glazed hummus ice-cream ideal ideal aperitif illabo illabo illabo spring imaginable indian indian asian cuisine interesting interesting aperitif prosciutto melon island italian italian brasserie italian cuisine italian light italian light italian mediterranean cuisine italian-accented italian-style itself jacques japanese japanese cuisine japanese rolls japanese seafood jugged jugged jugged juniper kangarooP kangaroo filleth kangaroo kangaroo strong strong cheese kangaroo kangaroo venison kasslar kassler kebabs kentucky kentucky fried chicken kidneyW kidneys kilpatrick kinds george whiting island cheddar prawns kraft kraft australian parmesan kraft victorian parmesan lambM casserole chops cutlets fillet fillets fillets mature cheddar pastry kebabs casseroleM provencale rabbit shanks shashlik shoulder strong cheddar redcurrant sauce lamb's lamb's brains lamb's lasagne leave leave alone leave cellar leave cellar decade onion lemon lemon chicken lemon chicken salad light light asian cuisine light asian dishes light brasserie light cake-type desserts light green curry dishes light italian light dishes pasta light mediterranean dishes light dishes light seafood light seafood dishes light seafood oysters lighter lighter italian asian dishes lighter dishes lightly lightly poached asparagus lime-marinated lime-marinated seafood liver lobster lobster bisque lobster lobster mornay lobster shellfish loinO milk-fed poached stock lorraine maggie maggie beer's margaret margaret river chevre margaret river chevre marinara marinated marinated marinated dried stone fruit marinated grilled octopus marinated rabbit marinated scallops marinated spatchcock marinated venison marron marron course marron crayfish marron lobster marron yabbies marron yabbies marrow mature mature cheddar mature cheddar finer dishes mature cheddar kraft parmesan mature cheese mayonnaise meats medallions medallions mushrooms mediterranean mediterranean bistro mediterranean eggplant mediterranean italian cuisine mediterranean-style mediterranean-style dishes mediterranean-style seafood medium medium weight dishes medium-weight medium-weight shellfish dishes melon milawa milawa washed-rind cheese mildN cheddar cheese curry cheese indian curry mature cheese mature cheese milk-fed milk-fed milk-fed milk-fed mixed mixed grill moreton moreton mornay morning moroccan moroccan chicken moroccan chicken stuffed raisins moroccan couscous moroccan curry moroccan asian dishes white dishes mountains moussaka mousse mousseline mousseline whiting multicultural multicultural dishes mushroom mushroom risotto mushrooms mushrooms mussel mussel mussels mussels white sauce goreng nectarines needs needs accompaniment zealand crayfish zealand zealand spring zealand venison zealand whitebait nicoise night noodles nothing nothing anything octopus olives omelette onion orange orange souffle oven-roasted oven-roasted oxtail oyster oyster oysters oysters kilpatrick oysters mussels oysters shellfish oysters shellfish paella pan-fried pan-fried breast chicken pan-fried chicken breast pan-fried pan-fried fillet pan-fried scallops pan-fried trout pan-fried trout black butter pan-fried pan-fried abalone mushrooms pan-fried whitebait pan-fried whitebait pancakes parma parma parmesan parmesan cheese parmigiana pastal pasta bolognese pasta carbonara pasta cheese pasta chicken turkey pasta eggplant pasta marinara pasta italian-accented dishes pasta seafood pasta salads pasta white dishes pasta creamy sauce pasta tomato sauce pasta cream sauce pasta creamy sauce pasta salmonl pasta smoked salmon pasta tomato sauce pastrami pastrami salad pastrami smoked pastries pastry terrine peach peach peach-fed peach-fed peaches pecan pecan peking peking pepper pepper steak pesto petits petits fours pheasant pheasant guineafowl pheasant turkey pheasant truffles pickled pickled octopus pig's pig's trotter crepinette pigeon pippies pizza pizza poached poached fruit poached fruit fruit poached nectarines poached peaches poached peaches island cream poached salmon poached salmon asian cuisine poached scallops poached tasmanian salmon chops fillet fillet apricots fillets rillettes spare apple peach apricots ginger ginger porterhouse porterhouse steak possible pot-au-feu potent potent cheeses strong meats poultry poultry rabbit powerful powerful cheese prawn prawn avocado salad prawn salad prawns prawns creamy pasta prawns shell prawns ginger prawns walnuts prime prime prosciutto prosciutto prosciutto melon prosciutto pastrami provencaleB puddingw quail quail quail asian cuisine quail quail quail quail salad quality queensland queensland quiche quiche lorraine rabbit rabbit zealand ragout ragout ragout ragout sweetbreads ragout sweetbreads brains ragout ragout venison raisins rareK fillet char-grilled steak fillet fillet fillet roast roast squab_ steak steak venisonK scotch fillet sirloin steak ratatouille ravioli rooster chicken redcurrant richX cakes casserole casserole dishes casseroles chicken chicken dishes desserts dishes pasta dishesX steak strong cheese^ pasta dishes meats seafood seafood seafood pasta seafood seafood beurre blanc sauce ripened cheese stews sweet fruit-based desserts white white dishes richer richer asian seafood dishes richer dishes richer italian dishes richer seafood dishes richer seafood white meats richer spicier chinese richer chicken dishes richer white dishes kinds richest richest strongest cheese richlyi richly sauced casserolei richly sauced casserole richly sauced casseroles richly sauced richly sauced white dishes rillettes island ripened ripened camembert risotto river roast_ roast richer dishes@ roast chicken@ salad salt-bush lamb@ scallops white sauce seafood shellfish@ shredded@ smoked breast@ south@ spring stir-fried stuffed eggplant@ tandoori@ turkey kidneys@ virtually dessert@ yarra valley goat's cheese adelaide hills auckland barossa barossa valley clare coonawarra great hawke's hills lower hunter valley@ margaret marlborough mclaren mornington nelson roast chicken roast roast black cherry sauce roast lambq roast roast pigeon roast pigeon breast roast roast quail roast squab roast stuffed chicken roast turkey roast roast mature cheddar crayfish lobster rockmelon rockmelon cakes rolls rooster rotisserie rotisserie chicken roulade rumpK steak saddle saddle saddle saint salad salad salad antipasto salad nicoise salad salad seafood salads salads meats salads kinds salads seafood salmonb salmon mousse salmon pancakes salmon pizza salmon roulade salmon tartare salmon terrine salt-bush salt-bush saltimbocca sardines sashimi sashimi fuller-flavoured satay sauce saucedi sausage sausages sauteed sauteed prawns sauteed scallops sauteed scallop scallop vegetable terrine scallop mousseline scallop terrine scallops scallops ginger scallops cream sauce scallops white sauce scallops mussels scallops white sauce scallops white sauce scaloppine scampi scampi marron schnapper schnitzel scotch scotch fillet seafood seafood antipasto seafood asian cuisine seafood bisque seafood chowder seafood light pasta seafood pasta seafood risotto seafood salad seafood shellfish seafood terrine seared seared seared fillet venison seared kangaroo fillet seared seared slow-cooked salmon asian cuisine seared salmon seared scallops seared tasmanian salmon seared venison served shanghai shanghai shanks shashlik shell shellfish shellfish shellfish creamy sauce shellfish crustacea shellfish oysters shepherd's shepherd's shoulder shoulder shredded simple simple dishes simple seafood dishes singapore singapore noodles sirloin sirloin slightly slow-cookedb slow-cooked fresh salmon slow-cooked salmon slow-cooked tasmanian salmonb slow-roasted slow-roasted tasmanian salmon smoked smoked smoked cheese smoked chicken smoked chicken avocado salad smoked smoked breast smoked smoked smoked haddock smoked haddock smoked kangaroo smoked kangaroo fillet smoked smoked redcurrant sauce smoked smoked smoked quail smoked salmon smoked salmon omelette smoked salmon pasta smoked trout smoked trout mousse smoked trout smoked trout risotto smoked turkey snapper snowy snowy mountains trout mature gippsland cheese cheese ripened cheese souffle south south australian whiting spaghetti spaghetti bolognese spaghetti pesto spare spatchcock spiced spiced asian cuisine spiced asian dishes spiced asian seafood spiced barossa sausage spiced spiced chicken spiced spiced kebabs spiced moroccan spiced prawns spiced quail spiced sausage spicier spicy spicy asian dishes spicy asian spicy chinese cuisine roast spring spring spring spring pastry spring rolls squab george whiting steakK steak kidney steak diane steak black sauce steak mushrooms steamed steamed asparagus steamed steamed black sauce steamed chinese-style steamed snapper stewed stewed oxtail stewed venison stews stickyw sticky puddingw still stilton stir-fried stir-fried stir-fried asian stir-fried stir-fried chicken stir-fried chicken cashew stir-fried stir-fried prawns stir-fried prawns cashew stir-fried vegetables stir-fry stock stone strictly strictly depends strictly unnecessary itself stroganoff strong^ strong cheddar strong asian strong cheese strong dishes strong mature cheddar stilton strong dishes strong-flavoured strong-flavoured strongest strongly strongly flavoured cheese stuffed stuffed baked apple stuffed calamari stuffed capsicum stuffed eggplant stuffed mussels stuffed shoulder stuffed spatchcock style sugar-cured sugar-cured salmon sugar-cured summerG summer salads summer's sunlight supreme sushi sweet sweet sweet fruit-based tarts sweet white-fleshed sweetbreads sweeter sweeter asian dishes swimmer t-bone takeaway takeaway chicken takeaway tandoori tandoori chicken tartare tartare atlantic salmon tartare fresh tasmanian salmon tartare salmon tarte tarte tatin tarts tasmanianb tasmanian lobster tasmanian salmon tasmanian seafood tasmanian venison tatin tea-smoked tea-smoked tea-smoked tempura teriyaki teriyaki terrine terrine salmon terrine scallops terrine smoked salmon chicken cuisine prawns that{ biggest steak imaginable finest quality double expresso coffee richest possible richest possible ultimate winter aperitif thick thick tiger tiger prawns tomato tongue tortellini tripe trotter trout trout mousse trout salmon mousse truffles aperitif turkey turkey turkey ultimate ultimate seafood style unnecessary valley vealN chicken chops chops italian-style cutlets fricassee goulash white sauce white sauce italian-style kidneys cheddarN parmigiana pasta saltimbocca scaloppine shanks steak terrine turkey vegetable vegetable terrine vegetables vegetarian vegetarian dishes venisonK venison venison sauce venison kangaroo venison kangaroo filletP venison ragout venison venison juniper berries dishes sweet desserts victorian victorian parmesan cheese virtually virtually dessert virtually seafood virtually anything choose volute volute chicken wairau wairau river trout walnuts walnuts almonds washed washed cheese washed-rind weight weiner weiner schnitzel weisswurst wellington australian crayfish white white-fleshed white-fleshed whitebait whiting wiener wiener schnitzel wild{ failing domestic duck{ mushroom risotto winterG winter aperitif coffee winter aperitif summer after dinnerG winter's withl wonton wonton wood-fired wood-fired pizza yabbies yabbies hollandaise sauce yabbies marron yakitori yakitori chicken yamba yamba prawns yarra yarra valley goat's cheese yarra valley goat's cheese yarra valley smoked trout yarra valley venison yarra valley yabbies yearlingU yearling yearling steak yearling steak cheddar yearling steak cheeseU yearling steak yellow-fin yellow-fin zealand adelaideD adelaide hillsD adelaide hills adelaide plains auckland auckland auckland ballarat barossaM barossa barossa valleyM barossa valley bendigo benson canberrao canberra districto canterbury central central victorian country clare clare clare valley coast coonawarra coonawarra country cowra creek darling districto valley south victoria geelong geographe gippsland gisborne glenrowan goulburn goulburn valley grampians granite granite great great great southern hastings hastings river hawke's hawke's hawke's hillsD hills hilltops hunterr island kingv valleyv koppamurra langhorne langhorne creek lowerr lower hunter valleyr macedon margarett margaret margaret rivert marlborough marlborough matakana mclaren mclaren mclaren mornington mornington mornington peninsula mount mount benson mudgee murray murray darling nelson nelson northern northern tasmania northland northland matakana orange otago other nelson other plenty sunbury upper hunter valley valleyN yarra full-bodied white oaked/non-oaked light-bodied full-bodied aromatic@ full-bodied non-oaked oaked/non-oaked sparkling white athelstan@ beach@ carabooda clarendon@ crest@ estelle@ gallery@ series valley@ reserve@ james larose@ mamre brook@ mclaren vine@ ovens@ pokolbin@ reserve robard butler mendoza shingle helene@ trial adelaide hills@ other other wineries other wineries other wineries other wineries ovens ovens valley padthaway pemberton peninsula perth perth hills plains plenty plenty pyrenees rivert riverina riverland rutherglen shoalhaven south south coast southern southern tasmania sunbury sunbury district tasmania upper upper hunter valley upper hunter valley valleyM valleyN valley valley valley victoria victorian waiheke waiheke island waikato waikato plenty wairarapa wineries yarra yarra yarra valley aromatic light bodied white non-oakedD full-bodied white oaked/non-oakedl full-bodied white oaked/non-oaked full-bodied white oaked/non-oaked sweet white table light-bodied light-bodied full-bodied full-bodied full-bodied sparkling fortifiedG aromaticD bodiedD cabernet chardonnay chardonnay shiraz cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet franc fortifiedG franc full-bodiedB full-bodied full-bodied full-bodied full-bodied lightD light-bodiedE merlot non-oakedD non-oaked oaked/non-oakedl oaked/non-oaked pinot sanderson sauvignon semillon shiraz sparkling sparkling sweet table traminer traminer semillon chardonnay verduzzo pinot shiraz verduzzo whiteD white white collection vines 1920'sK 1920's blockK coonawarra bridges abbott's abbott's prayer ad2015 adelaide adelaide hills alchemy alexander alexander berry alexanders alexandra alfred alfred pizzini aloysius alwyn alwyn noble harvest amadeus amarone amberley amberley private angel angel blend angelus annie's annie's anthony's antipodean ararimu armagh series astralis athelstan australia autumn autumn awanga awatea awatere awatere valley block ballingal ballingal estate ballingal estate premium selection balmoral barker barossa barossa barossa ranges barossa reserve barossa/coonawarra barrel barrel fermented barrique barrique fermented barrique fermented matakana barrique reserve basket basket press basket pressed bastard bastard bazzani beach beach ben's ben's blend cabernet bendigo benjamin bernoota berry berrys berrys beach coonawarraN ad2015 vintage watervale dwt18 black black label black wattle blackbutt blackwell blackwood blackwood blackwood ridge blanc blanc blanc blend blockK block block label ridge bobbie} bobbie burns} bortoli boston botrytis botrytis reserve botrytised boweya bragato bragato reserve brajkovich brajkovich signature brancott brancott estate bremerton bremerton blend brian brian light reserve briarston bridges bridie's brokenback brokenstone brook brookdale/lost brookdale/lost block sauvage bullnose burnham burns} burton's burton's vineyard butler buxton buxton mclaren cabernet cabernet sauvignon cabernets cameron cameron canobolas canterbury crest carabooda caraboodaoda carabooda carlsfield carlsfield vineyard carlyle carramar carramar estate castle castle crossing castle catherine caversham celebre cellar cellar selection central central otago chaffey chairman's chairman's selection chais chais clarendon chalambar chalice chapel chardonnay charlotte chest chloe choice christobels christobels white church church block church church reserve clairault clancy's clareU clare estateU clare valley clare valley vines clare valley unwooded clarendon clarendon vineyard classic classic classic clare classic classic hunter white classic classic release classic reserve classic style classic white clifford clover clover cluny coast coleraine colin colin preece collection collectors cooks cooks winemaker's reserve coonawarraN coonawarra vineyard coppermine cordon cordon corella corella ridge corner cornucopia cottage cottage block cottage block gisborne cottage block marlborough cottage block noble country cowra craighall creek crest cricket cricket pitch crittenden croft crofters croser crossing custodian cuvee cuvee marlborough cyril cyril henschke d'arry's d'arry's original dalry dalry damask dashwood david david man's dedication bortoli bortoli delmelza deutz deutz devil's devil's devil's river fabio diamond diamond label diamond white directors directors reserve disgorged point marlborough domaine domaine dorrien draycott draycott reserve reserve dryland durham dwt18 black pepper eaglehawk early early harvest coast eastfields ebenezer edelstone valley edition edwards edwards chaffey eight eileen eileen hardy eliza elizabeth elizabeth berry ellen ellen street elspeth elston elstree elstree botrytised elstree reserve emily's emily's paddock enterprise enterprise reserve valley esslin estateU estate marlborough estelle evan's evan's vineyard moutere ewell exotica extra extra fabio fairhall fairhall estate family family reserve family selection valley family selection farmB block farms fergus fermented festival festival white fifth fifth fifth white first first growth first ridge vineyard flanagan's flanagan's ridge fleurieu florance footbolt foundation founderG founder liqueurG founders founders reserve matador estate frank frank potts frankland frankland river fromenteau frost frost hollow gallagher's gallagher's choice gallery gallery series gamekeeper's gamekeeper's reserve garry garry crittenden garry crittenden riserva gathering geoff geoff hardy kuitpo george georgia's georgia's paddock gibsons gibsons creek giles gisborne glazebrook label reserve golden golden goodchild goulburn goulburn valley grace grace elizabeth graeme's graeme's blend gramp's grand grand pyrenees grand reserve grandfather grange graveyard great great grandfather green green point green's green's grenache series series series eries series valley grove growers growth station gully gully winds reserve hamilton hamilton ewell reserve vines picked handpicked hardy harvest hastings hastings river hawke's hawke's hawke's reserve helene helga henriW henry henry henschke heytesbury country hilary grace grace reserve hills hillside hilltops hollow holystone block howecroft huapai huapai reserve huntaway huntaway reserve hunter hunter river hunter river classic release hunter river reserve hunter valley block hutton ignatius white inheritance irongate ironstone ironstone pressings irvine isabella island isolation isolation ridge ivanhoe jacaranda jacaranda ridge jacobs jacobs creek jacobs creek limited release james james james irvine grand jamiesons jamiesons jamiesons reserve jeremy jewelstone mcwilliam riverina riddoch joseph joseph amarone jud's jud's handpicked estate judge judge julius julius valley kalimnaM kalimna kathleen keyneton keyneton estate keystone yallambee kingv valleyv kinnaird koombahla koonunga koonunga kraft kraft vineyard kuitpo label lakes lakewood lakewood whitmore lalla lalla rookh lambkin langi lansdowne larose disgorged harvest lawson's lawson's padthaway lenswood lenswood giles leonay light limestone limestone coast limestone ridge limited limited edition limited release limited release cowra lindauer lindsay lindsay liqueurG liquid liquid lloyd lloyd reserve creek longest longridge longridge hawke's lovedale lunch lyncroft macedon macedon ranges madfish madfish premium maestro magill magill estate maglieri mamre mamre brook man's mangatawhiri estate margaret margaret river margaret river mount barker mariginiup marion marion vineyard reserve marlborough marlborough marlborough reserve marlborough reserve vineyard selection marlborough roseland marrowbone kathleen matador matakana vineyard matthew maurice maurice o'shea mcalister mccrae mccrae mclaren mclaren padthaway mclaren mclaren anthony's reserve mclaren mclaren vale/coonawarra mcw11 mcw11 liqueur mcwilliam melba mendoza mentor menzies merchant merchant prince merlot merlot cabernet sauvignon meshach metala metala black label methode methode traditionnelle michael michael hutton milburn milburn millstone mirrool mirrool creek mondiale montview moonambel mount mount barker mount canobolas mount edelstone mountain mountain moutere pickwick family reserve reserve nelson popes ninth ninth island ninth island straits white nobbies noble noble vintage norma norma catherine nyrang o'shea o'shea marlborough ochre octavius odyssey block boston collectors premium liqueur barossa valley vines winery olive olive olmo's olmo's reward omrah optima optima noble selection orange original original blend oscar's oscar's traditional otago ovens ovens valley oyster oyster paddock padthaway liqueur partalunga partners patriarch pavilion pavilion peach peach peaks pellion pelorus pepper peppertree peppertree vineyard personal personal selection petrie petrie vineyard selection piccadilly piccadilly valley picked pickwick picnic picnic white pinchem pineau pineau chloe pinot pinot chardonnay pinot pinot chardonnay pitch pitchfork pitchfork pizzini plains poacher's poacher's blend poet's poet's corner point pokolbin pokolbin hills polish polish polish river vineyard popes portsorts potts prayer preece prelude premier premier cuvee premium premium mclaren president's president's selection press pressed pressings prince print print label private private private gisborne private hawke's private marlborough private rhine promenade promenade riverina proprietor's proprietor's reserve hawke's proprietors proprietors reserve prospect prospect vineyard pyrenees pyrus queen queen charlotte ranges liqueur raven ravenswood rawsons rawsons retreat ochre stripe tingle release reserve reserve reserve barrel fermented reserve barrique fermented reserve reserve canterbury reserve canterbury burnham school reserve clifford reserve coonawarra reserve hawke's reserve hunter valley reserve marlborough reserve noble reserve noble selection retreat reunion reward rhine richardson's richardson's block richmond richmond plains riddoch ridge ridgewood riesling riesling valleys riserva river riverina rivers robard robard butler mendozandoza robard butler mendoza robertson's robertson's rookh rorhlach rorhlach reserve label orange virginia rosehill roseland rothesay rovalley rovalley ridge roxburgh rubicon runrig russet russet ridge coonawarra saints saints gisborne saints marlborough salinger sally's sally's paddock salmon sandhill sarniaB sarnia farmB sauvage sauvignon schinus schinus longest lunch school school block secession select selectionH selwin's selwin's series shadrach sharefarmers sharefarmers sheoak shepherds shepherds croft shingle shingle shingle shingle marlborough reserve reserve reserve siegersdorf signature signature selection silver silver label single single vineyard james james vintage skilly skilly hills solaire solaire reserve sophie's sophie's vineyard south south island southern southern lakes special special special liqueur special reserve special select harvest special aloysius estelle george eorge george eorge helene helga valley henriW hilary padthaway ignatius yvette stables stafford stafford ridge station statue statue vineyard pinot steading steingarten steve steve maglieri steven stevens stockhausen stocks stoneleigh stonewell storton storton straits strathbogie strathbogie ranges street stripe style sunday sunday creek swamp swamp reserve swinton synergy t-trellis tapestry tasman tasman tasman nelson tasman reserve awanga terra terra terrace terrace terraces cuvee angelus armagh athelstan barossa cabernets chapel reserve chapel reserve clairault coppermine custodian farms fergus footbolt gathering growers trinity mcalister menzies nobbies olive grove raven steading stocks terraces valleys vicar thomas thomas hardy thomson thomson family thorn thorn vineyard thoroughbred three three vineyards tietjen tietjen gisborne tingle tintara traditional traditionnelle tramillon treasure trial trial adelaide hills tribute trinity trinity blend trout tumbarumba tunnel tunnel twenty twenty eight peaks cabernets rivers vineyards udy's udy's underhill unwooded uppercase vale/coonawarra valleyv valleys vasse vasse river vicar victoria victoria reserve victorian vines vineyard vineyard vineyards vintage vintage cuvee victoria vintage pinot chardonnay vintage reserve virgin virgin hills virginia virtuoso wahgunyah waiheke waiheke island waiheke island esslin waimauku waipara waipara reserve wairarapa wairau wairau valley reserve warburn warburn estate watervale wattle plains western western australia classic whispering whispering white white label white label hawke's white label marlborough whitecliff whitecliff hawke's whitmore william willowbank willowbank vineyard willowbrook vineyard winds@ blanc blanc blanc@ cabernet cabernet merlot cabernet sauvignon chardonnay durif@ marlborough@ methode champenoise pinot pinot sauvignon sauvignon blanc semillon shiraz tawny zinfandel merlot@ sweet white blanc blends cabernet cabernet blends cabernet sauvignon chardonnay other other varietals blends pinot pinot sauvignon sauvignon blanc shiraz shiraz blends traminer varietals white winds windy windy winemaker'sH winemaker's selectionH winemakers winemakers reserve winemakers selection winery woodley woodley treasure chest reserve wyangan wyangan estate yallambee yarra yarra valley yarraman yarraman black yattarna yellow yellow tingle young young young/cowra yvette alexandria barbera blanct blanc blanc blanc blanc blancs blanc noirs blancs blend block botrytis botrytis riesling botrytis riesling botrytis selection riesling botrytis semillon botrytis semillon botrytised botrytised riesling bottle bottle fermented cuvee burgundy cabernetB cabernet cabernet cabernet blend cabernet franc cabernet franc merlot cabernet grenache shiraz cabernet malbec cabernet malbec merlot cabernet merlotc cabernet merlot cabernet merlot franc cabernet merlot malbec cabernet nouveau cabernet sauvignonB cabernet sauvignon cabernet sauvignon tr222 cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet sauvignon shiraz cabernet shirazO cabernet shiraz dolcetto cabernet shiraz merlot cabernets cabernets merlot cabernets quintet cellar chambourcin champenoise chardonnay chardonnay chardonnay chardonnay chardonnay reserve chardonnay semillon chenin chenin blanc claret classic classic white colombard coonawarra coonawarra cuvee cuvee riche cuvee rosee cuvee dolcetto dp117 white durif fermented franc franc cabernet frontignac blanc gamay gewurztraminer golden golden botrytis grenache grenache grenache shiraz grigio harvest hawkes hawkes chardonnay hermitage harvest riesling harvest semillon picked riesling liqueurH liqueur malbec marlborough marlborough cuvee marsanne marsanne/roussanne mataro merlotc merlot merlot cabernet merlot cabernet franc merlot cabernet sauvignon merlot malbec cabernet franc method methode methode champenoise methode champenoise meunier mondeuse mourvedre muscat muscat muscat alexandria noirE noirs oaked chardonnay nouveau oaked liqueur muscat liqueur tokayH petit petit verdot picked pinotE pinot pinot blanc pinot chardonnayv pinot chardonnay pinot chardonnay meunier pinot grigio pinot pinot reserve pinot meunier pinot noirE pinot pinot cellar reserve pinot selection quintet reserve riche riesling riesling riesling riesling vineyard riesling traminer rosato malbec rosee roussanne sangiovese sauternes sauvignonB sauvignon sauvignon sauvignon blanct sauvignon blanc sauvignon blanc semillon sauvignon semillon selection semillon semillon semillon chardonnay semillon sauternes semillon sauvignon blanc sherry sherry dp117 shiraz shiraz shiraz cabernet shiraz cabernet franc shiraz cabernet malbec shiraz cabernets shiraz grenache shiraz malbec shiraz malbec mourvedre shiraz mataro shiraz merlot shiraz merlot cabernet franc shiraz mondeuse shiraz pinot shiraz viognier sparkling sparkling burgundy sparkling pinot sparkling shiraz sweet sweet white syrah taminga tawny tawny tawny tawny tokay tokay tr222 traditional traditional method traminer traminer riesling unoaked unoaked chardonnay unwooded unwooded chardonnay valley verdelho verdelho chardonnay verdot vineyard vintage vintage vintage tawny viognier white white block white burgundy white frontignac yarra yarra valley zinfandel zinfandel merlot fortified sparkling sweet sweet white white white white blanct blanc blendsO blends blends cabernetB cabernet cabernet cabernet blendsO cabernet blends cabernet sauvignonB cabernet sauvignon chardonnay chardonnay chardonnay muscat noirE other other other varietals blends other varietals blends other white varietals blends pinotE pinot pinot noirE pinot riesling sauvignonB sauvignon sauvignon sauvignon blanct sauvignon blanc semillon sherry shiraz shiraz shiraz blends shiraz blends sparklingv sparkling sparkling whitev sweet tokay traminer traminer varietals varietals whitev white australia australia australia zealand zealand abbey verdelho@ allan scott autumn riesling@ angel@ askerne sauvignon blanc@ baileys founder liqueur muscat@ barossa valley estate black pepper shiraz@ bimbadgen estate chardonnay blanc bleasdale frank potts cabernet malbec merlot@ bortoli brand's laira cabernet sauvignon briar ridge stockhausen semillon@ brokenwood graveyard shiraz@ brown brothers valley pinot chardonnay@ burge cabernet campbells@ capel riesling@ catherine chardonnay@ chandon chardonnay chateau tahbilk vines shiraz@ clareU cliff house riesling@ coldstream hills reserve cabernet sauvignon coolangatta estate verdelho@ corbans australia australia australia australia zealand zealand zealand zealand zealand zealand zealand 1920'sK abbey abbey cabernet sauvignon abbey verdelho abbey festival white abbey semillon abbott's ad2015 river pinot river yarra traminer adams adelaide alchemy alexander alexanders alexandra alexandria alfred alkoomi alkoomi blackbutt alkoomi cabernet sauvignon alkoomi chardonnay alkoomi classic alkoomi classic white alkoomi riesling alkoomi sauvignon blanc alkoomi shiraz saints classic release muscat saints classic release tokay saints harvest semillon saints orange muscat saints shiraz saints reserve tokay allan allan allan scott autumn riesling allan scott marlborough riesling allan scott marlborough sauvignon blanc allandale allandale hilltops riesling allandale hunter river chardonnay allandale matthew shiraz allandale semillon allanmere allanmere durham chardonnay allinda allinda cabernets aloysius alwyn amadeus amarone amberley amberley estate cabernet merlot amberley estate sauvignon blanc amberley estate semillon amberley estate semillon sauvignon blanc amberley estate shiraz amery andrew andrew garrett shiraz andrew garrett chardonnay andrew garrett vintage pinot chardonnay andrew harris premium cabernet sauvignon andrew harris premium chardonnay andrew harris reserve cabernet sauvignon andrew harris reserve chardonnay angel angelus angove'sB angove's classic reserve shiraz angove's mondiale shiraz cabernet angove's sarnia cabernet sauvignonB annie's anthony's antipodean apsley apsley gorge chardonnay apsley gorge pinot aquila aquila estate cabernet sauvignon aquila estate chardonnay ararimu ariki arlewood arlewood estate cabernet sauvignon armagh arrowfield arrowfield shiraz arrowfield reserve chardonnay arthurs arthurs creek cabernet sauvignon arthurs creek chardonnay ashbrook ashbrook estate chardonnay ashbrook estate semillon ashtonD ashton hills chardonnay ashton hills pinot noirE ashton hills rieslingD ashton hills salmon ashwell ashwell vineyards sauvignon blanc askerne askerne sauvignon blanc askerne semillon sauvignon blanc astralis rangi celebre rangi craighall chardonnay rangi pinot athelstan augustine augustine cabernet sauvignon auldstone auldstone boweya muscat auldstone cabernet sauvignon auldstone shiraz austin's austin's barrabool riesling australia autumn avalon avalon vineyard pinot methode champenoise avoca awanga awatea awatere babich babich coast chardonnay babich irongate chardonnay babich estate chardonnay babich estate sauvignon babich estate syrah babich marlborough sauvignon blanc baileysG baileys 1920's block shirazK baileys classic style shiraz baileys founder liqueur muscatI baileys founder liqueur tokayG baileys winemaker's selection liqueur muscat baileys winemaker's selection liqueur tokayH mountain chardonnay mountain shiraz mountain shiraz cabernet baldivis baldivis estate unwooded chardonnay balgownie balgownie estate cabernet sauvignon balgownie estate shiraz balgownie premier cuvee chardonnay ballingal balmoral balnaves balnaves cabernet merlot balnaves cabernet sauvignon balnaves chardonnay balnaves shiraz bannockburn^ bannockburn chardonnay bannockburn pinot noir_ bannockburn shiraz^ barbera barker barossa barossa settlers gully winds riesling barossa valley estate black pepper shiraz barossa valley estate ebenezer chardonnay barossa valley estate ebenezer shiraz barossa/coonawarra barrabool barratt barratt chardonnay barratt piccadilly valley pinot barrel barrington barrington estate yarraman black chardonnay barrique barry barwang barwang cabernet sauvignon barwang chardonnay barwang shiraz basedow basedow barossa chardonnay basedow oscar's traditional semillon basedow oscar's traditional white burgundy basket bassb phillip pinot noirb phillip premium pinot phillip reserve pinot bastard bazzani beach beckett's beckett's sauvignon blanc semillon beckworth bellingham bellingham riesling ben's bendigo benjamin beresford beresford mclaren cabernet merlot beresford mclaren padthaway chardonnay bernoota berry berrys best's best's shiraz best's cabernet sauvignon best's pinot meunier best's thomson family shiraz bethanyc bethany cabernet merlotc bethany chardonnay bethany shiraz bethany special select harvest riesling bethany semillon bianchet bianchet pinot bimbadgen bimbadgen estate chardonnay bimbadgen estate chardonnay bimbadgen estate shiraz bindi bindi chardonnay bindi pinot birdwood birdwood estate chardonnay black black ridge pinot black wattle cabernet sauvignon blackbutt blackjack blackjack shiraz blackwell blackwood blanct blanc blancs blass bleasdale bleasdale bremmerview shiraz bleasdale frank potts cabernet malbec merlot bleasdale sandhill verdelho blend blockK bloodwood bloodwood estate cabernet bloodwood estate chardonnay bloodwood estate riesling bloodwood estate riesling bloodwood estate malbec pyrenees estate pyrenees estate chardonnay pyrenees estate cabernet sauvignon riesling sauvignon blanc bobbie} boneo boneo plains chardonnay bortoli bortoli boston boston cabernet sauvignon boston chardonnay boston merlot boston riesling botobolar botobolar cabernet sauvignon botobolar shiraz botrytis botrytised bottle bowenh bowen estate cabernet sauvignoni bowen estate cabernet sauvignon merlot cabernet franc bowen estate shirazh boweya boynton's boynton's bright cabernet sauvignon boynton's bright merlot boynton's bright noble chardonnay boynton's bright sauvignon blanc semillon boynton's bright shiraz bragato brajkovich brancott brand'sl brand's laira cabernet sauvignonignonignon brand's laira cabernet sauvignonignonignon brand's laira cabernet sauvignon brand's laira chardonnayl brand's laira riesling brangayne brangayne orange premium chardonnay brangayne orange reserve chardonnay brangayne orange shiraz bream bream creek cabernet sauvignon bream creek chardonnay bream creek riesling breeze bremerton bremerton bremerton blend bremerton cabernet sauvignon bremerton shiraz briagolong briagolong estate chardonnay brian brian barry jud's handpicked cabernet sauvignon brian barry jud's handpicked merlot brian barry jud's handpicked riesling briar briar ridge cabernet sauvignon briar ridge chairman's chardonnay briar ridge early harvest semillon briar ridge picked chardonnay briar ridge stockhausen hermitage rmitage briar ridge stockhausen semillon briarston bridges bridgewater bridgewater chardonnay bridgewater millstone shiraz bridgewater sauvignon blanc bridie's bright brindabellao brindabella hills cabernetq brindabella hills rieslingo brindabella hills sauvignon blanc semillon brindabella hills shiraz brindabella hills vintage reserve chardonnay britannia britannia falls sauvignon blanc britannia falls semillon broke broke estate limited edition cabernets broke estate limited edition chardonnay brokenback brokenstone brokenwoodr brokenwood cabernet sauvignon brokenwood cricket pitch brokenwood cricket pitch sauvignon blanc semillon brokenwood cricket pitch unwooded chardonnay brokenwood graveyard chardonnay brokenwood graveyard shiraz brokenwood semillonr brokenwood shiraz brook brookdale/lost brookfields brookfields chardonnay brookfields gewurztraminer brookfields label cabernet merlot brookfields pinot brookfields reserve cabernet sauvignon brookfields reserve chardonnay brooklandt brookland valley cabernet merlot brookland valley merlot brookland valley sauvignon blanct brothersv brownv brown brothers classic release cabernet sauvignon brown brothers family reserve chardonnay brown brothers family selection valley chardonnay brown brothers family selection tokay brown brothers valley pinot chardonnayv brown brothers noble riesling brown brothers pinot chardonnay brown brothers victorian shiraz browns browns padthaway family reserve cabernet sauvignon browns padthaway t-trellis shiraz bruer bullers bullers calliope liqueur muscat bullers calliope liqueur tokay bullers limited release shiraz mondeuse bullers liquid muscat bullers liquid tokay bullers white label cabernet sauvignon bullnose burge{ burge burge family draycott merlot burge family draycott reserve shiraz burge family draycott shiraz{ burge family olive riesling burgundy buring burnham burns} burramurra burramurra cabernet merlot burton's butler buxton chardonnay reserve cabernet sauvignon reserve chardonnay sauvignon blanc cabernetB cabernet cabernet cabernets cairnbrae cairnbrae chardonnay cairnbrae reserve chardonnay cairnbrae reserve riesling cairnbrae riesling cairnbrae sauvignon blanc cairnbrae semillon calais calais estates reserve shiraz calliope cambewarra cambewarra estate cabernet sauvignon cambewarra estate chambourcin cambewarra estate verdelho cameron campbells} campbells bobbie burns chardonnay campbells bobbie burns shiraz} campbells isabella tokay campbells merchant prince muscat canadoro canadoro cabernet sauvignon canobolas canobolas-smith canobolas-smith alchemy canobolas-smith chardonnay canobolas-smith merlot canterbury clairault riesling clairault sauvignon blanc clairault semillon sauvignon blanc jaffa cabernet sauvignon mentelle cabernet sauvignon mentelle chardonnay mentelle semillon sauvignon blanc mentelle shiraz mentelle zinfandel capel capel chardonnay capel unwooded chardonnay capel howecroft cabernet sauvignon merlot capel kinnaird shiraz capel merlot capel riesling capel sauvignon blanc capel whispering riesling capercaillie capercaillie hunter valley chardonnay capercaillie hunter valley semillon carabooda carabooda estate shiraz carbunup carbunup estate vasse river chardonnay carlsfield carlyle carramar casella casella carramar estate botrytis semillon cassegrain cassegrain chambourcin cassegrain first ridge vineyard semillon cassegrain fromenteau chardonnay cassegrain hastings river chardonnay cassegrain hastings river semillon cassegrain reserve cabernet merlot cassegrain reserve chardonnay castle castle cabernet sauvignon castle estate chardonnay castle estate pinot castle estate riesling catherine catherine chardonnay catherine semillon caversham celebre cellar cellars cellier cellier blanc blancs cellier methode traditionnelle cellier cellier terrace sauvignon blanc cellier vintage central chaffey chain chain ponds amadeus cabernet sauvignon chain ponds chardonnay chain ponds pinot chain ponds riesling chain ponds sauvignon blanc semillon chain ponds semillon chairman's chais chalambar chalice chambourcin champenoise chancellor chancellor waipara cabernet sauvignon chancellor waipara sauvignon chandon chandon chapel chapel mclaren vale/coonawarra cabernet sauvignon chapel reserve cabernet shiraz chapel reserve chardonnay chapel shiraz chapel vicar cabernet shiraz chapel unwooded chardonnay chard chard bragato reserve pinot chard gewurztraminer chard judge chardonnay chard pinot chard sauvignon blanc chard southern lakes chardonnay chardonnayl chardonnay chardonnay chardonnay charles charles cimicky signature shiraz charles melton cabernet sauvignon charles melton grenache charles melton popes charles melton virginia charles melton shiraz charles sturt chardonnay charles sturt limited release cabernet sauvignon shiraz charles sturt limited release cowra chardonnay charles sturt university cabernet shiraz merlot charley charley brothers cabernet merlot charley brothers chardonnay charley brothers shiraz charlotte chateau chateau leamon pinot chateau leamon shiraz chateau shiraz chateau tahbilk vines shiraz chateau tahbilk cabernet sauvignon chateau tahbilk chardonnay chateau tahbilk marsanne chateau tahbilk riesling chateau tahbilk shiraz chateau tahbilk special chatsfield chatsfield cabernet franc chatsfield chardonnay chatsfield gewurztraminer chatsfield mount barker riesling chatsfield shiraz chenin chest chestnut chestnut grove cabernet merlot chestnut grove verdelho chifney chifney cabernet sauvignon chifney chardonnay chittering chittering estate reserve chardonnay chittering estate semillon sauvignon blanc chloe choice christobels church ciavarella ciavarella chardonnay cimicky clair clairault clancy's clareclare clareU clarendon clarendon hills astralis clarendon hills cabernet merlot clarendon hills cabernet sauvignon clarendon hills merlot clarendon hills vines grenache clarendon hills shiraz claret classic clearview clearview estate basket press cabernet clearview estate beach chardonnay clearview estate blanc clearview estate reserve cabernet franc clearview estate reserve chardonnay clearview estate reserve merlot clearview estate awanga sauvignon blanc cleveland cleveland cabernet sauvignon cleveland macedon cleveland pinot cliff cliff house pinot cliff house riesling clifford clifford sauvignon blanc clifton clifton cabernet sauvignon clonakilla clonakilla cabernet merlot clonakilla riesling clonakilla shiraz clare riesling clouds cloudy cloudy chardonnay cloudy pelorus cloudy sauvignon blanc clover clover cluny coast cobaw cobaw ridge chardonnay cockfighter's cockfighter's ghost chardonnay cockfighter's ghost semillon cockfighter's ghost shiraz cockfighter's ghost unwooded chardonnay cofield cofield cabernet merlot cofield merlot cofield shiraz coldstream coldstream hills briarston coldstream hills chardonnay coldstream hills pinot coldstream hills reserve cabernet sauvignonignonignon coldstream hills reserve cabernet sauvignon coldstream hills reserve chardonnay coldstream hills reserve pinot coldstream hills sauvignon blanc coleraine colin collards collards hawke's chardonnay collards hawke's chenin blanc collards marlborough sauvignon blanc collards queen charlotte riesling collards riesling collards rothesay chardonnay collards rothesay sauvignon blanc collection collectors colombard conders conders sauvignon blanc constable constable hershon chardonnay conti cooks coolangatta coolangatta estate alexander berry chardonnay coolangatta estate cabernet shiraz coolangatta estate eileen chambourcin coolangatta estate elizabeth berry cabernet sauvignon coolangatta estate semillon sauvignon blanc coolangatta estate verdelho coombend coombend cabernet sauvignon coonawarraN coopers coopers creek gisborne chardonnay coopers creek gisborne blanc coopers creek hawke's cabernet sauvignon coopers creek hawke's chardonnay coopers creek hawke's reserve riesling coopers creek hawke's riesling coopers creek huapai reserve cabernet merlot coopers creek harvest riesling coopers creek marlborough sauvignon blanc coopers creek marlborough sauvignon blanc coopers creek swamp reserve chardonnay cooter cope-williams cope-williams chardonnay cope-williams macedon ranges cope-williams coppermine corbans corbans corbans amadeus corbans amberley private riesling corbans cooks winemaker's reserve chardonnay corbans cottage block gisborne chardonnay corbans cottage block marlborough sauvignon blanc corbans cottage block merlot corbans cottage block noble riesling corbans cottage block pinot corbans estate marlborough sauvignon blanc corbans huntaway reserve semillon corbans longridge hawke's chardonnay corbans private chardonnay corbans private hawke's cabernet sauvignon corbans private hawke's pinot corbans private marlborough sauvignon blanc corbans robard butler mendoza chardonnay corbans stoneleigh riesling corbans stoneleigh sauvignon blanc cordon corella coriole coriole chenin blanc coriole lalla rookh grenache shiraz coriole lalla rookh semillon coriole lloyd reserve shiraz coriole kathleen cabernet blend coriole sangiovese coriole semillon sauvignon blanc coriole shiraz corner cornucopia cottage country covell covell estate chardonnay cowra cowra estate cabernets cowra estate chardonnay cowra estate classic cabernet merlot cowra estate directors reserve merlot crabtree crabtree watervale grenache craig craig chardonnay craighall craiglee craiglee shiraz craiglee chardonnay craiglee shiraz craigmoor craigmoor chardonnay craigmoor semillon cranswick cranswick estate autumn botrytis semillon cranswick estate young chardonnay crawford coriole lalla rookh semillon@ crawford river cabernet merlot@ cuvee dalwhinnie pinot noir@ bortoli melba@ delegat's oyster chardonnay@ diamond valley estate cabernet sauvignon@ drayton dulcinea pinot noir@ elspeth estate eyton-on-yarra chardonnay fishburn frankland@ gembrook pinot noir@ gibbston valley pinot noir@ glenara shiraz gralyn grenache hamelin chardonnay@ hardys thomas hardy cabernet sauvignon@ hawley rubicon chardonnay henschke cyril henschke cabernet sauvignon@ highfield estate chardonnay@ hills horrocks cabernet sauvignon@ jackson estate sauvignon blanc@ jingalla semillon@ katnook crawford awatere sauvignon@ knight granite hills reserve cabernets@ kyeema estate cabernet merlot@ crawford river cabernet merlot crawford river cabernet sauvignon crawford river riesling crawford river semillon sauvignon blanc creek crest cricket crittenden croft crofters croser cross cross roads riesling cross roads reserve cabernet merlot cross roads reserve chardonnay cross roads reserve pinot cross roads sauvignon crossing cruickshank-callatoo cruickshank-callatoo cabernets cullen cullen cabernet merlot cullen cabernet sauvignon cullen chardonnay currency currency creek sauvignon blanc custodian cuvee cuvee cyril d'arenberg d'arenberg d'arry's original shiraz grenache d'arenberg shiraz d'arenberg ironstone pressings d'arenberg noble riesling d'arenberg ochre d'arenberg coppermine cabernet sauvignon d'arenberg custodian grenache d'arenberg footbolt shiraz d'arenberg olive grove chardonnay d'arenberg twenty eight mourvedre d'arry's dalfarras dalfarras cabernet sauvignon dalfarras sauvignon blanc dalfarras shiraz dalfarras unoaked chardonnay dalry dalrymple dalrymple chardonnay dalrymple sauvignon blanc dalwhinnie dalwhinnie chardonnay dalwhinnie moonambel cabernet dalwhinnie moonambel shiraz dalwhinnie moonambel shiraz dalwhinnie pinot damask daniel daniel schuster canterbury chardonnay daniel schuster canterbury pinot daniel schuster hawke's chenin blanc daniel schuster petrie vineyard selection chardonnay daniel schuster reserve pinot darling darling estate koombahla chardonnay darling cabernet merlot darling chardonnay darling pinot darlington darlington estate cabernet sauvignon darlington estate chardonnay dashwood david david traeger cabernet david traeger shiraz david traeger verdelho bortoli bortoli chardonnay bortoli bortoli cabernet sauvignon bortoli botrytis semillon bortoli station chardonnay bortoli melba bortoli noble botrytis semillon bortoli semillon bortoli windy chardonnay bortoli windy pinot bortoli windy riesling bortoli yarra valley cabernet sauvignon bortoli yarra valley chardonnay bortoli yarra valley pinot bortoli yarra valley shiraz gyffarde sauvignon blanc deakin deakin estate cabernet sauvignon deakin estate chardonnay deakin estate colombard deakin estate shiraz dedication delatite delatite chardonnay delatite man's gewurztraminer delatite delmelza pinot chardonnay delatite devil's river delatite malbec delatite riesling delatite sauvignon blanc delatite shiraz delegat's delegat's delegat's oyster chardonnay delegat's oyster sauvignon blanc delegat's proprietors reserve cabernet sauvignon delegat's proprietors reserve chardonnay delegat's proprietors reserve merlot delegat's proprietors reserve sauvignon blanc delmelza demondrille demondrille raven shiraz dennis dennis chardonnay deredcliffe deredcliffe dedication chardonnay deredcliffe mangatawhiri chardonnay deredcliffe marlborough riesling deredcliffe proprietor's reserve hawke's merlot deredcliffe semillon chardonnay derwent derwent estate riesling deutz devil's devil's devil's chardonnay devil's fifth devil's fifth white fabio shiraz diamond diamond valley label pinot diamond valley estate cabernet sauvignon diamond valley estate chardonnay diamond valley estate pinot directors disgorged dolcetto domaine domaine chandon blanc blancs domaine chandon blanc noirs domaine chandon domaine chandon domaine chandon cuvee riche domaine chandon cuvee yarra valley domaine chandon green point chardonnay domaine chandon green point pinot domaine chandon disgorged donnelly donnelly river chardonnay doole doonkuna doonkuna estate cabernet merlot doonkuna estate chardonnay doonkuna estate riesling doonkuna estate sauvignon blanc doonkuna estate shiraz dorrien dowie dowie doole semillon sauvignon blanc downs dp117 draycott{ drayton drayton drayton's drayton's hermitage drayton's cabernet sauvignon drayton's chardonnay drayton's semillon drayton's william shiraz driftwood driftwood estate cabernet sauvignon driftwood estate semillon driftwood estate chardonnay driftwood estate semillon dromana dromana estate cabernet merlot dromana estate chardonnay dromana estate pinot dromana estate reserve chardonnay dromana estate schinus longest lunch river botrytis selection riesling river pinot dryland drylands dulcinea dulcinea cabernet sauvignon dulcinea chardonnay dulcinea pinot dulcinea sauvignon blanc dulcinea shiraz duncan duncan estate chardonnay durham durif dwt18 eaglehawk early eastern eastern peake chardonnay eastfields ebenezer edelstone edition edwards eight eileen elderton elderton cabernet sauvignon elderton cabernet shiraz merlot elderton shiraz eldredge eldredge cabernet sauvignon eldredge grenache eldredge semillon sauvignon blanc elgee elgee chardonnay elgee pinot eling eling forest riesling eliza elizabeth ellen elsewhere elsewhere vineyard methode champenoise elsewhere vineyard pinot elspethspeth elspeth elston elstree emily's enough enterprise eppalock eppalock ridge shiraz valley black label sauvignon blanc valley private hawke's chenin blanc valley private sauvignon blanc valley reserve chardonnay valley terraces esslin estateU estate estate estates estelle eurunderee eurunderee flats shiraz evan's evans evans family chapel gamay evans family hillside pinot evans family pinchem chardonnay evans family statue vineyard pinot methode champenoise evans margaret river cabernet sauvignon evans margaret river chardonnay evans margaret river merlot evans margaret river sauvignon blanc evans margaret river semillon evans margaret river shiraz evans vineyards chardonnay evans western australia classic ewell exotica extra eyton-on-yarra eyton-on-yarra cabernets eyton-on-yarra chardonnayonnay eyton-on-yarra chardonnay eyton-on-yarra dalry unwooded chardonnay eyton-on-yarra reserve shiraz eyton-on-yarra pinot fabio fairhall fairhall downs estate chardonnay fairhall downs estate sauvignon blanc falls family{ farmB farms farrell's farrell's limestone creek semillon felix fergus fergusson fergusson benjamin cabernet sauvignon fergusson jeremy shiraz fergusson victoria chardonnay fermented fermoy fermoy estate reserve chardonnay estate semillon festival field fields fifth first fishburn fishburn fishburn o'keefe pinot fishburn o'keefe riesling fishburn o'keefe trout flanagan's flats fleurieu flight florance folly footbolt forest forrest forrest estate gibsons creek forrest estate marlborough chardonnay forrest estate riesling forrest estate sauvignon blanc forrest estate semillon foundation founderG founders creek shiraz cabernets creek reserve cabernet sauvignon creek reserve shiraz creek verdelho foxes foxes island chardonnay framingham framingham classic riesling framingham riesling framingham sauvignon blanc franc francis frank frankland frankland estate isolation ridge frankland estate olmo's reward frankland estate riesling fraser fraser chardonnay freycinet freycinet chardonnay freycinet pinot fromenteau frontignac frost fyffe fyffe field diamond white fyffe field shiraz galafrey galafrey riesling galafrey shiraz galah galah clare valley shiraz galah clare valley cabernet malbec galah sparkling shiraz gallagher's gallery gamay gamekeeper's garden garden gully shiraz garden gully sparkling burgundy garrett garry garry crittenden barbera garry crittenden riserva garry crittenden rosato gathering gembrook gembrook chardonnay gembrook pinot gembrook sauvignon blanc geoff geoff merrill cabernet sauvignon geoff merrill premium chardonnay geoff merrill premium mclaren semillon geoff merrill premium sauvignon blanc geoff merrill premium shiraz geoff merrill reserve cabernet sauvignon geoff merrill reserve chardonnay geoff merrill reserve shiraz geoff weaver stafford ridge chardonnay geoff weaver stafford ridge riesling geoff weaver stafford ridge sauvignon blanc george georgia's gewurztraminer ghost giaconda giaconda chardonnay giaconda pinot gibbston gibbston valley central otago pinot gibbston valley central otago riesling gibbston valley marlborough sauvignon blanc gibbston valley pinot gibbston valley reserve pinot gibsons giesen giesen estate extra riesling giesen estate harvest riesling giesen estate marlborough sauvignon blanc giesen estate reserve canterbury pinot giesen estate reserve chardonnay giesen reserve canterbury burnham school chardonnay gilbert gilbert chardonnay gilbert riesling gilbert shiraz giles gillan gillan eastfields sauvignon blanc gisborne gladstone gladstone cabernet sauvignon gladstone riesling gladstone sauvignon blanc glazebrook glenara glenara adelaide hills riesling glenara cabernet sauvignon glenara limited release pinot glenara pinot bottle fermented glenara sauvignon blanc semillon glenara shiraz glenara shiraz glenayr glenayr pinot glenayr riesling glenmark glenmark plains riesling gloucester gloucester ridge sauvignon blanc golden golders golders pinot goldwater goldwater estate point marlborough sauvignon blanc goldwater estate marlborough roseland chardonnay goldwater estate waiheke island cabernet merlot franc goldwater estate waiheke island esslin merlot goodchild goodchild chardonnay goona goona warra cabernet franc gorge goulburn goundrey goundrey reserve cabernet sauvignon goundrey reserve chardonnay goundrey reserve pinot goundrey reserve sauvignon blanc goundrey reserve shiraz goundrey unwooded chardonnay grace graeme's gralyn Wgralyn gralyn gralyn cabernet nouveau gralyn cabernet shiraz gralyn michael hutton shiraz gramp gramp's grand grandfather grangeX granite grant grant burge barossa ranges chardonnay grant burge cameron cabernet sauvignon grant burge kraft vineyard sauvignon blanc grant burge frontignac grant burge meshach shiraz grant burge shadrach cabernet sauvignon grant burge trinity grant burge thorn vineyard riesling grant burge virtuoso graveyard great green green's greenhough greenhough vineyard pinot greenhough vineyard riesling greenhough vineyard sauvignon blanc grenache grenache grigio grosset grosset grosset piccadilly chardonnay grosset polish riesling grosset reserve pinot grosset semillon sauvignon blanc grosset watervale riesling grove grove lansdowne chardonnay grove marlborough chardonnay grove marlborough riesling grove marlborough sauvignon blanc grove winemakers reserve gewurztraminer growers growth gully estate chardonnay gyffarde hackett hallett hamelin hamelin chardonnay hamelin sauvignon blanc hamelin semillon sauvignon blanc hamilton handpicked hanging hanging macedon cuvee hanging picnic white hanging sauvignon blanc hanging victoria chardonnay hanging victoria semillon sauvignon blanc hanging victoria shiraz hanson hanson cabernet sauvignon hanson cabernets happs happs cabernet merlot happs chardonnay happs merlot hardy hardys hardys eileen hardy chardonnay hardys eileen hardy shiraz hardys hardys padthaway unwooded chardonnay hardys siegersdorf riesling hardys james cabernet shiraz merlot hardys james vintage hardys thomas hardy cabernet sauvignon hardys tintara grenache hardys tintara shiraz hardys vintage harewood harewood estate chardonnay harewood estate pinot harrier harrier cabernet franc harrier uppercase merlot harris harvest harwood haselgrove haselgrove grenache haselgrove reserve cabernet sauvignon haselgrove reserve chardonnay haselgrove reserve shiraz haselgrove unwooded chardonnay hastings ariki sauvignon blanc hawke's hawkes hawkesbridge hawkesbridge sophie's vineyard chardonnay hawkesbridge willowbank vineyard sauvignon blanc hawley hawley rubicon chardonnayardonnayonnay hawley rubicon chardonnay hawley vineyard unwooded chardonnay cabernet sauvignon pinot pitchfork sauvignon blanc semillon hayward's hayward's whitehead creek shiraz heemskerk heemskerk chardonnay heemskerk pinot heemskerk riesling heggies heggies botrytis riesling heggies chardonnay heggies merlot heggies riesling heggies viognier heights helen helena helene helga helm's helm's cabernet merlot helm's oaked chardonnay helm's henriW henry henschke henschke abbott's prayer cabernet merlot henschke croft chardonnay henschke cyril henschke cabernet sauvignon henschke green's riesling henschke grace henschke julius valley riesling henschke keyneton estate shiraz cabernet malbec henschke lenswood giles pinot henschke mount edelstone heritage heritage wines cabernet malbec heritage wines cabernet sauvignon heritage wines riesling hermitage hermitage reserve chardonnay hermitage reserve merlot hermitage reserve semillon herons herons flight barrique fermented matakana chardonnay herons flight matakana cabernet sauvignon merlot hershon heytesbury hickinbotham hickinbotham chardonnay highbank highbank basket pressed cabernet blend highfield highfield estate chardonnay highfield estate elstree botrytised semillon sauvignon blanc highfield estate elstree cuvee highfield estate elstree reserve sauvignon blanc highfield estate harvest riesling highfield estate merlot highfield estate sauvignon blanc highland highland heritage mount canobolas chardonnay hilary verdelho hill-smith hill-smith estate chardonnay hill-smith estate sauvignon blanc hillsD hills hillside hillstowe hillstowe buxton chardonnay hillstowe buxton mclaren sauvignon blanc hillstowe buxton shiraz hillstowe mclaren chardonnay hillstowe udy's chardonnay hilltops hollick hollick botrytis riesling hollick chardonnay hollick coonawarra cabernet blend hollick ravenswood hollick terra hollow hollyclare hollyclare chardonnay holmes holmes brothers richmond plains holmes brothers richmond plains sauvignon blanc holystone homme honeytree honeytree estate cabernet sauvignon honeytree estate semillon horrocks horrocks hotham hotham valley cabernets hotham valley chardonnay hotham valley chenin blanc hotham valley classic white hotham valley semillon houghton houghton crofters cabernet merlot houghton crofters semillon sauvignon blanc houghton frankland river riesling houghton reserve verdelho houghton houghton stripe cabernet sauvignon houghton semillon sauvignon blanc houghton reserve riesling houghton white burgundy house howard howard cabernet merlot howard chardonnay howard madfish premium howard madfish premium white howard riesling howecroft huapai huberts hamilton chardonnay cabernet sauvignon shiraz gewurztraminer sauvignon blanc hungerford hungerford cowra chardonnay hungerford tumbarumba chardonnay hungerford tumbarumba sauvignon blanc hungerford young semillon hungerford young/cowra cabernet sauvignon huntaway hunter hunter ridge verdelho hunter's hunter's chardonnay hunter's sauvignon blanc hunter's pinot hunter's riesling hunter's sauvignon blanc huntington huntington estate cabernet merlot huntington estate cabernet sauvignon huntington estate shiraz huntington estate special reserve shiraz hurtle huthlee huthlee estate cabernet sauvignon hutton idyll idyll cabernet shiraz idyll classic gewurztraminer ignatius inglewood inglewood reserve chardonnay inglewood rivers semillon sauvignon blanc ingoldby ingoldby cabernet sauvignon ingoldby chardonnay inheritance pinot grigio semillon sauvignon blanc unwooded chardonnay irongate ironstone irvine isabel isabel estate marlborough chardonnay isabel estate marlborough pinot isabel estate marlborough sauvignon blanc isabella island isolation ivanhoe jacaranda jackson jackson estate reserve chardonnay jackson estate riesling jackson estate sauvignon blanc jackson's jackson's cabernet franc jacobs jaffa james james irvine grand merlot jamiesons brook cabernet merlot brook chardonnay brook shiraz jardee jardee chardonnay jasper jasper emily's paddock shiraz cabernet franc jasper georgia's paddock shiraz jenke jenke cabernet franc jenke cabernet sauvignon jenke chardonnay jenke mourvedre jenke semillon jenke shiraz jeremy jewelstone barry mccrae cabernet malbec barry mccrae shiraz barry personal selection cabernet sauvignon barry armagh barry watervale riesling jingalla jingalla reserve shiraz jingalla riesling jingalla semillon jingalla verdelho johanneshof johanneshof cellars gewurztraminer joseph jud's judge julius kaesler kaesler grenache kaesler vines shiraz kairanga kalimnaM kangarilla kangarilla shiraz kangarilla zinfandel kangaroo kangaroo island vines florance cabernet merlot sauvignon blanc shiraz cabernet karina karina cabernet merlot karina chardonnay karina riesling seppelt sauvage seppelt cabernet sauvignon seppelt chardonnay karrivale karrivale riesling karriview karriview chardonnay karriview pinot kathleen katnook katnook katnook estate cabernet sauvignon katnook estate chardonnay katnook estate merlot katnook estate odyssey cabernet sauvignon katnook estate riddoch cabernet shiraz katnook estate riddoch sauvignon blanc katnook estate riesling katnook estate sauvignon blanc amery block shiraz amery cabernet sauvignon kellybrook kellybrook chardonnay kellybrook pinot kellybrook shiraz kemblefield kemblefield estate chardonnay kemblefield estate gewurztraminer kemblefield estate reserve sauvignon blanc keyneton keystone kidman killawarra killawarra vintage killawarra premier killeen killerby killerby cabernet sauvignon killerby chardonnay killerby shiraz crawford awatere sauvignon crawford marlborough riesling crawford marlborough sauvignon blanc crawford marlborough unoaked chardonnay crawford tietjen gisborne chardonnay kindale kindale willowbrook chardonnay kingv kings kings creek chardonnay kings creek pinot kingston kingston estate cabernet sauvignon kingston estate chardonnay kingston estate reserve chardonnay kingston estate semillon sauvignon blanc kingston estate shiraz kingtree kingtree riesling kinnaird kinvarra kinvarra estate riesling knappstein knappstein botrytised riesling knappstein cabernet merlot knappstein cabernet sauvignon knappstein enterprise reserve shiraz knappstein riesling knappstein sauvignon blanc semillon knight knight granite hills reserve cabernets knight granite hills riesling knight granite hills shiraz kominos kominos shiraz koombahla koonunga koppamurra koppamurra cabernet merlot koppamurra cabernet sauvignon koppamurra merlot koppamurra riesling kraanwood kraanwood pinot kraft krondorf krondorf coonawarra shiraz krondorf family reserve cabernet sauvignon krondorf family reserve chardonnay krondorf semillon krondorf reserve cabernet sauvignon kuitpo kumeu kumeu river brajkovich signature chardonnay kumeu river brajkovich signature sauvignon kumeu river chardonnay kumeu river vineyard chardonnay kumeu river merlot malbec cabernet franc kumeu river sauvignon semillon kumeu river semillon kyeema kyeema estate cabernet merlot kyeema estate chardonnay kyeema estate shiraz label lairal barrington alexandra methode champenoise barrington pinot breeze bernoota breeze cabernet sauvignon breeze winemakers selection cabernet sauvignon breeze winemakers selection shiraz chalice sauvignon blanc lake's lake's folly cabernets lake's folly chardonnay lakes lakewood lalla lalla gully sauvignon blanc lambkin lamont lamont barrel fermented chardonnay lamont verdelho langi langi cabernet merlot langi shiraz langmeil langmeil chardonnay langmeil selwin's cabernet grenache shiraz langmeil shiraz langmeil white frontignac lansdowne cabernet merlot chardonnay pinot riesling larose laurel laurel cabernet merlot laurel pinot laurel sauvignon blanc lauren lauren brook cabernet sauvignon lauren brook riesling lawson lawson dryland cabernet sauvignon lawson merlot lawson verdelho lawson's lawsons lawsons hills chardonnay lawsons hills gewurztraminer lawsons hills riesling lawsons hills sauvignon blanc chardonnay sauvignon blanc leamon leasingham langmeil selwin's cabernet grenache shiraz@ leasingham cabernet malbec@ lenton@ lincoln marlborough sauvignon blanc@ lintz estate cabernet merlot@ lunch@ margrain riesling@ matua valley shingle sauvignon blanc@ mcwilliam's mcwilliam riverina botrytis semillon@ merlen sauvignon blanc@ merrivale tapestry cabernet sauvignon millton riesling vineyard@ mission pinot gris@ montana fairhall estate cabernet sauvignon@ moorooduc estate chardonnay@ mount mountadam@ wine@ nicholson orange@ padthaway estate eliza chardonnay@ parker coonawarra estate first growth cabernet sauvignon@ pegasus sauvignon blanc semillon penfolds valleys chardonnay@ peter lehmann ad2015 vintage port@ pierro chardonnay pinot plantagenet shiraz@ prayer leasingham cabernet malbec leasingham shiraz leasingham classic clare cabernet sauvignon leasingham classic clare shiraz leconfield leconfield cabernet leconfield chardonnay leconfield shiraz leeuwin leeuwin estate series cabernet sauvignon leeuwin estate series chardonnay leeuwin estate series sauvignon blanc leeuwin estate prelude chardonnay lehmann lengs lengs cooter clare valley vines shiraz lengs cooter clare valley unwooded semillon lengs cooter swinton lennards lennards brook estate chardonnay lennards brook estate verdelho lenswood lenswood vineyards cabernets lenswood vineyards chardonnay lenswood vineyards pinot lenswood vineyards sauvignon blanc lenswood vineyards semillon lenton lenton estate sauvignon blanc lenton estate semillon sauvignon blanc buring barossa/coonawarra cabernet sauvignon buring watervale riesling buring dwt18 riesling buring clare valley riesling buring clare valley semillon buring leonay riesling leonards leonay liebichwein liebichwein riesling valleys liebichwein riesling traminer light lillydale lillydale chardonnay lillydale pinot lillydale sauvignon blanc lillypilly lillypilly chardonnay lillypilly estate noble muscat alexandria lillypilly estate noble riesling lillypilly estate tramillon limestone limited lincoln lincoln marlborough sauvignon blanc lincoln president's selection chardonnay lindauer lindemans lindemans chardonnay lindemans semillon chardonnay lindemans coonawarra vineyard riesling lindemans coonawarra vineyard sauvignon blanc lindemans hunter river classic release semillon lindemans hunter river reserve shiraz lindemans hunter river semillon lindemans hunter river shiraz lindemans limestone coast chardonnay lindemans limestone ridge lindemans nyrang semillon lindemans nyrang shiraz lindemans padthaway cabernet merlot lindemans padthaway chardonnay lindemans padthaway verdelho lindemans pyrus lindemans george lindemans steven hermitage linden linden estate valley chardonnay lindsay lintz lintz estate cabernet merlot lintz estate chardonnay lintz estate optima noble selection lintz estate pinot lintz estate reserve riesling lintz estate sauvignon blanc liqueurG liquid lirralirra lirralirra pinot lirralirra sauvignon blanc lirralirra semillon lirralirra semillon sauvignon blanc lirralirra yarra valley cabernets little's little's gewurztraminer little's semillon little's vintage lloyd gully chardonnay gully sauvignon blanc longest longleat longleat cabernet sauvignon longleat chardonnay longleat riesling longridge lovedale family orange family unwooded semillon lubiana lunch lyncroft pinot cellar reserve riesling shiraz macedon madew madew riesling madfish maestro magill maglieri maglieri cabernet sauvignon maglieri semillon maglieri shiraz maglieri steve maglieri shiraz ridge chardonnay ridge pinot majella majella cabernet sauvignon malbec malcolm malcolm creek cabernet sauvignon malcolm creek chardonnay mamre man's mangatawhiri mania margaret margrain margrain chardonnay margrain pinot margrain riesling maria marienberg marienberg chardonnay mariginiup mariners mariners chardonnay mariners pinot marion maritime maritime estate chardonnay rattray waipara chardonnay rattray waipara pinot marlborough marribrook marribrook cabernet malbec marribrook unwooded chardonnay marrowbone marsanne marsanne/roussanne marsh marsh estate semillon sauternes martinborough martinborough vineyard chardonnay martinborough vineyard pinot martinborough vineyard reserve pinot mary's marybrook marybrook estate semillon massoni massoni creek chardonnay massoni creek pinot matador matakana matariki matariki chardonnay matariki sauvignon blanc mataro matawhero matawhero gewurztraminer matilda's matilda's meadow cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc matilda's meadow pinot matilda's meadow unwooded chardonnay matthew matthias matua matua valley ararimu chardonnay matua valley cellar selection chardonnay matua valley hawke's gewurztraminer matua valley hawke's sauvignon blanc matua valley estate chardonnay matua valley shingle marlborough chardonnay matua valley shingle pinot matua valley shingle sauvignon blanc matua valley waimauku cabernet sauvignon maurice maxwell maxwell cabernet merlot maxwell chardonnay maxwell ellen street shiraz maxwell cabernet sauvignon maxwell reserve shiraz maxwell sauvignon blanc maxwell semillon mcalister mcalister mcalister mccrae mcdonald mcdonald church cabernet merlot mcdonald church chardonnay mcdonald church reserve cabernet merlot mcdonald church reserve chardonnay mcdonald church reserve merlot mcguigan mcguigan brothers hermitage mclaren mcw11 mcwilliam mcwilliam's mcwilliam's valley riesling mcwilliam's inheritance shiraz cabernet mcwilliam's mcwilliam riverina botrytis semillon mcwilliam's mcw11 liqueur muscat mcwilliam's mount pleasant elizabeth mcwilliam's mount pleasant lovedale semillon mcwilliam's mount pleasant maurice o'shea mcwilliam's mount pleasant merlot mcwilliam's mount pleasant o'shea chardonnay mcwilliam's mount pleasant o'shea shiraz mcwilliam's mount pleasant rosehill shiraz mcwilliam's mount pleasant verdelho meadow meadowbank meadowbank grace elizabeth chardonnay meadowbank pinot meadowbank riesling meerea meerea cabernet merlot meerea chardonnay meerea lindsay verdelho meerea sauvignon blanc semillon melba melton mendoza mentelle mentor menzies merchant merlen merlen chardonnay merlen riesling merlen sauvignon blanc merlen semillon merlotc merricks merricks estate shiraz merrill merrivale merrivale brian light reserve shiraz merrivale tapestry cabernet sauvignonignonignonignonignon merrivale tapestry cabernet sauvignon merrivale tapestry cabernet shiraz merrivale tapestry shiraz meshach metala method methode meunier michael milburn mildara mildara coonawarra cabernet sauvignon mildara alexanders mildara coonawarra cabernet sauvignon mildara flanagan's ridge cabernet sauvignon mildara jamiesons coonawarra mildara jamiesons reserve mildara robertson's cabernet sauvignon millinup millinup estate peaks riesling mills mills elspeth chardonnay mills reserve chardonnay mills vintage traditional method millstone millton millton barrique fermented chardonnay millton chenin blanc millton riesling vineyard millton cuvee mintaro mintaro cabernet sauvignon mintaro shiraz miramar miramar cabernet sauvignon miramar chardonnay miramar semillon miramar shiraz miranda miranda botrytis semillon miranda golden botrytis miranda country chardonnay miranda mirrool creek chardonnay miranda rovalley estate series valley riesling miranda rovalley estate series semillon miranda rovalley estate rovalley ridge chardonnay miranda rovalley estate reserve chardonnay miranda rovalley estate reserve shiraz cabernet miranda reserve shiraz miranda wyangan estate chardonnay mirrool mission mission chardonnay mission jewelstone chardonnay mission jewelstone franc cabernet mission pinot mitchell mitchell cabernet sauvignon mitchell peppertree vineyard shiraz mitchell growers grenache mitchell growers semillon mitchell watervale riesling mitchelton mitchelton blackwood riesling mitchelton goulburn valley marsanne mitchelton goulburn valley shiraz mitchelton mitchelton white mitchelton preece cabernet sauvignon mitchelton preece chardonnay mitchelton print label mitchelton victoria reserve chardonnay mondeuse mondiale monichino monichino shiraz montana montana brancott estate sauvignon blanc montana deutz blanc blanc montana deutz marlborough cuvee montana fairhall estate cabernet sauvignon montana gisborne chardonnay montana lindauer montana marlborough reserve chardonnay montana marlborough reserve vineyard selection sauvignon montana saints gisborne chardonnay montana saints marlborough sauvignon blanc montana sauvignon blanc montrose montrose barbera montrose cabernet sauvignon montrose chardonnay montrose poet's corner unwooded chardonnay montview moonambel moondah moondah brook cabernet sauvignon moondah brook chardonnay moondah brook chenin blanc moondah brook shiraz moondah brook verdelho moorilla moorilla estate botrytis riesling moorilla estate chardonnay moorilla estate pinot moorilla estate reserve pinot moorilla estate riesling moorooduc moorooduc estate chardonnay moorooduc estate pinot morningside morningside pinot mornington mornington estate chardonnay mornington estate pinot morris morris durif morris liqueur muscat morris liqueur tokay morris premium liqueur muscat morris shiraz morton morton estate black label chardonnay morton estate black label merlot morton estate white label hawke's chardonnay morton estate white label hawke's sauvignon blanc morton estate white label marlborough chardonnay brothers cabernet merlot cabernet sauvignon semillon mount mount mount avoca cabernets mount avoca chardonnay mount avoca sauvignon blanc mount avoca shiraz mount beckworth cabernets mount beckworth pinot mount beckworth shiraz mount beckworth unwooded chardonnay mount gisborne chardonnay mount helen cabernet merlot mount horrocks cabernet merlot mount horrocks chardonnay mount horrocks cordon riesling mount horrocks semillon mount horrocks watervale riesling mount hurtle cabernet merlot mount hurtle chardonnay mount hurtle grenache mount hurtle sauvignon blanc semillon mount hurtle shiraz mount shiraz mount cabernets quintet mount pinot mount prior chardonnay mount prior durif mount riley cabernet merlot mount riley chardonnay mount riley sauvignon blanc sauvignon blanc riley sauvignon blanc mountadam mountadam cabernet sauvignon mountadam chardonnay mountadam david cabernet sauvignon mountadam patriarch shiraz mountadam pinot chardonnay mountain mountford mountford merlot cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc mountford pinot mountford sauvignon blanc semillon mourvedre moutere moutere hills barrique fermented sauvignon blanc moutere hills cabernet merlot moutere hills chardonnay moutere hills nelson riesling house sauvignon blanc muirlea muirlea pinot murdoch murdoch james estate pinot murdoch james estate shiraz murrindindi murrindindi cabernets merlot murrindindi chardonnay muscatI narkoojee narkoojee cabernets merlot narkoojee chardonnay narkoojee athelstan merlot nautilus nautilus chardonnay nautilus cuvee marlborough nautilus marlborough sauvignon nautilus reserve chardonnay nelson nepenthe nepenthe vineyards chardonnay nepenthe vineyards semillon nepenthe vineyards unwooded chardonnay nesbit neudorf neudorf moutere chardonnay neudorf moutere pinot neudorf nelson chardonnay neudorf riesling neudorf sauvignon blanc chardonnay sauvignon blanc ngatarawa ngatarawa alwyn noble harvest ngatarawa glazebrook cabernet merlot ngatarawa glazebrook chardonnay ngatarawa stables chardonnay ngatarawa stables sauvignon blanc nicholsonnicholsonolson nicholson nicholson river chardonnay nicholson river montview chardonnay nicholson river semillon nicholson river shiraz pinot ninth nobbies nobilo nobilo grand reserve chardonnay nobilo grand reserve sauvignon blanc nobilo chardonnay nobilo gewurztraminer nobilo sauvignon blanc noblew noirE noirs chalice grenache shiraz reserve cabernet sauvignon solaire reserve grenache norma normans normans chardonnay normans chais clarendon cabernet sauvignon normans chais clarendon chardonnay normans chais clarendon shiraz normans family reserve cabernet sauvignon normans shiraz notley notley gorge cabernet merlot notley gorge chardonnay notley gorge pinot nouveau nyrang o'keefe o'shea oaked oakridge oakridge chardonnay oakridge estate reserve merlot oakridge reserve cabernet sauvignon oakridge reserve chardonnay oakvale oakvale peach semillon oakvale peach unwooded chardonnay ochre octavius odyssey okahu okahu estate shiraz river chardonnay river pinot olive olmo's omaka omaka springs cabernet merlot omaka springs chardonnay omaka springs sauvignon blanc omihi omihi hills waipara reserve pinot omrah optima orange original orlando orlando gramp's botrytis semillon orlando jacaranda ridge cabernet sauvignon orlando jacobs creek chardonnay orlando jacobs creek limited release chardonnay orlando jacobs creek limited release shiraz cabernet orlando jacobs creek riesling orlando lawson's padthaway shiraz orlando chardonnay orlando russet ridge coonawarra cabernet shiraz merlot orlando helga valley riesling orlando hilary padthaway chardonnay orlando cabernet sauvignon orlando steingarten riesling osborns osborns harwood chardonnay osborns harwood pinot oscar's osicka otago ovens oyster paddock padthaway padthaway estate eliza chardonnay padthaway estate pinot chardonnay cuvee padthaway estate unwooded chardonnay palliser palliser estate chardonnay palliser estate noble chardonnay palliser estate pinot palliser estate riesling palliser estate sauvignon blanc palmara palmara exotica palmara pinot palmers palmers cabernet sauvignon palmers chardonnay palmers merlot palmers sauvignon blanc panorama panorama pinot paracombe paracombe cabernet franc paracombe sauvignon blanc paracombe shiraz cabernet paradise paradise enough reserve chardonnay paringa paringa estate chardonnay paringa estate pinot paringa estate shiraz parker parker coonawarra estate first growth cabernet sauvignon partalunga partners passing passing clouds angel blend passing clouds ben's blend cabernet shiraz passing clouds graeme's blend shiraz cabernet passing clouds shiraz patriarch pattersons pattersons chardonnay pattersons pinot pattersons shiraz conti carabooda chardonnay conti mariginiup shiraz osicka shiraz paulett paulett cabernet merlot paulett riesling paulett shiraz pavilion peach peake peaks pegasus pegasus chardonnay pegasus maestro pegasus pinot pegasus sauvignon blanc semillonsus sauvignon blanc semillonillonillonsus sauvignon blanc semillonillonillon pegasus sauvignon blanc semillon pellion pelorus pendarves pendarves estate cabernet merlot malbec pendarves estate chardonnay pendarves estate verdelho penfoldsM penfolds coonawarra shirazN penfolds cabernet shirazO penfolds cabernet sauvignonP penfolds cabernet sauvignon penfolds clare estateU penfolds clare estate chardonnay penfolds grandfather penfolds grangeX penfolds great grandfather penfolds kalimna shirazM penfolds koonunga shiraz cabernet penfolds magill estate penfolds barossa valley semillon penfolds rawsons retreat cabernet shiraz penfolds reserve chardonnay penfolds special penfolds henri cabernet shirazW penfolds henri cabernet shirazW penfolds valleys chardonnay penfolds trial adelaide hills chardonnay penfolds trial adelaide hills semillon penfolds yattarna chardonnay penley penley estate cabernet sauvignon penley estate chardonnay penley estate shiraz cabernet pepper pepper chardonnay pepper coonawarra unwooded chardonnay pepper frost hollow pepper reserve coonawarra merlot pepper reserve semillon peppertree personal pertaringa pertaringa barrel fermented semillon pertaringa cabernet sauvignon pertaringa geoff hardy kuitpo shiraz petaluma petaluma chardonnay petaluma coonawarra petaluma croser petaluma merlot petaluma riesling petaluma sharefarmers peter peter lehmann barossa riesling peter lehmann ad2015 vintage peter lehmann clancy's peter lehmann clancy's classic white peter lehmann grenache peter lehmann mentor peter lehmann stonewell shiraz peter lehmann barossa shiraz peter rumball pinot chardonnay peterson peterson house pinot chardonnay meunier petersons petersons block shiraz petersons chardonnay petersons semillon petit petrie pewsey pewsey cabernet sauvignon pewsey riesling phillipb phillip island sauvignon blanc phillip island vineyard berrys beach cabernet sauvignon phillip island vineyard nobbies pinot picardy picardy pinot piccadilly piccadilly fields chardonnay picked pickwick picnic pierro pierro cabernets pierro chardonnay pierro chardonnay pierro semillon sauvignon blanc piesse piesse brook shiraz pikes pikes reserve riesling pikes riesling pikes sauvignon blanc pikes shiraz pinchem pineau pinotE pinot pipers pipers brook chardonnay pipers brook ninth island chardonnay pipers brook ninth island straits white pipers brook pellion pipers brook riesling pirramimma pirramimma cabernet sauvignon pirramimma chardonnay pirramimma petit verdot pirramimma semillon chardonnay pitch pitchfork pizzini pizzini alfred pizzini shiraz cabernet plains plantagenet plantagenet cabernet sauvignon plantagenet henry plantagenet mount barker plantagenet mount barker chardonnay plantagenet omrah chardonnay plantagenet omrah sauvignon blanc plantagenet pinot plantagenet riesling plantagenet shiraz pleasant pleasant valley hawke's sauvignon blanc pleasant valley signature selection chardonnay plunkett plunkett blackwood ridge sauvignon blanc semillon plunkett blackwood ridge shiraz plunkett strathbogie ranges chardonnay poacher's poet's point pokolbin polish ponder ponder estate sauvignon blanc ponds poole's poole's chardonnay popes poplar poplar pineau chloe phillip estate chardonnay phillip estate pinot phillip estate sauvignon blanc phillip estate shiraz portree portree chardonnay portree damask portsorts potts prayerrayerrayerrayerrayerrayer prayer preece prelude premier premium president's press pressed pressings preston preston cabernets preston sauvignon blanc semillon preston semillon chardonnay primo primo estate adelaide shiraz primo estate botrytis riesling primo estate colombard primo estate joseph amarone cabernet merlot prince print prior private promenade proprietor's proprietors prospect providence providence chardonnay providence pinot punters punters corner cabernet sauvignon punters corner chardonnay punters corner shiraz pyrenees pyrus queen queen adelaide woodley treasure chest claret quelltaler quelltaler annie's cabernet merlot quelltaler annie's chardonnay quelltaler annie's riesling quelltaler annie's semillon quelltaler annie's shiraz quelltaler carlsfield vineyard riesling quelltaler polish river vineyard riesling quelltaler prospect vineyard riesling quintet ranges rangi rattray raven ravenswood ravenswood chardonnay ravenswood reunion shiraz ravenswood gathering sauvignon blanc rawsons ray-monde ray-monde pinot estate chardonnay estate pinot queen adelaide woodley treasure chest claret@ estate sparkling pinot@ reserve reynolds yarraman orange chardonnay@ ridge riesling riverina ballingal estate merlot@ rochford pinot noir@ rosemount estate diamond label chardonnay@ rotherhythe cabernet sauvignon@ sacred whitecliff hawke's chardonnay@ saltram shiraz@ sauvignon scarpantoni estate block shiraz seifried estate sauvignon blanc@ semillon seppelt great western sparkling burgundy@ shiraz siegersdorf@ sparkling helena estate chardonnay@ steins street@ taltarni sauvignon blanc@ tollana chardonnay@ trinity wairarapa riesling@ unwooded vavasour@ villa vineyards wairau river sauvignon blanc@ water wheel bendigo chardonnay@ white estate sparkling pinot redbank redbank sally's paddock redgate redgate cabernet sauvignon redgate semillon redgate reserve sauvignon blanc redman redman cabernet merlot redman cabernet sauvignon redman shiraz drayton ivanhoe shiraz drayton lambkin semillon drayton pokolbin hills chardonnay drayton pokolbin hills chardonnay semillon reilly's reilly's cottage watervale riesling release renmano renmano chairman's selection chardonnay reserve reserve retreat reunion reward reynell reynell basket pressed cabernet sauvignon reynell basket pressed merlot reynell basket pressed shiraz reynolds reynolds yarraman hunter valley chardonnay reynolds yarraman hunter valley semillon reynolds yarraman orange cabernet sauvignon reynolds yarraman orange chardonnay reynolds yarraman shiraz rhine ribbon ribbon cabernet sauvignon ribbon sauvignon blanc ribbon semillon richard richard hamilton burton's vineyard grenache shiraz richard hamilton chardonnay richard hamilton block semillon richard hamilton hamilton ewell reserve vines shiraz richard hamilton block cabernet sauvignon richard hamilton marion vineyard reserve grenache shiraz richard hamilton mclaren shiraz richard hamilton synergy white richardson's riche richmond richmond grove barossa riesling richmond grove coonawarra cabernet sauvignon richmond grove cowra chardonnay richmond grove watervale riesling riddoch ridge ridge ridgewood rieslingD riesling riley rimfire rimfire chardonnay rimfire family reserve verdelho chardonnay rimfire reserve sauvignon blanc rimfire shiraz rippon rippon vineyard chardonnay rippon vineyard pinot rippon vineyard pinot selection riserva rivendell rivendell semillon sauvignon blanc rivendell verdelho river riverina riverina ballingal estate cabernet sauvignon riverina ballingal estate chardonnay riverina ballingal estate merlot riverina ballingal estate premium selection chardonnay riverina ballingal semillon riverina ridgewood semillon chardonnay riverina warburn estate cabernet sauvignon riverina wines ridgewood cabernet sauvignon rivers riverside riverside cabernet merlot riverside reserve hawke's chardonnay riverside sauvignon blanc roads robard robertson's robinsons robinsons family cabernet sauvignon robinsons family chardonnay robinsons family shiraz robinsons family shiraz cabernet robinvale robinvale chardonnay robinvale zinfandel merlot rochecombe rochecombe pinot rochecombe riesling rochecombe sparkling rochford rochford chardonnay rochford pinot rockford rockford basket press shiraz rockford black shiraz rockford valley riesling rocklea rocklea vineyard norma catherine chardonnay rongopai rongopai botrytis reserve rongopai sauvignon blanc rongopai sauvignon blanc rookh rorhlach rorhlach reserve merlot rosabrook rosabrook estate cabernet merlot rosato rosebank rosebank estate marlborough chardonnay rosebank estate marlborough riesling rosebank estate waipara chardonnay rosee rosehill roseland rosemount rosemount estate balmoral syrah rosemount estate diamond label cabernet sauvignon rosemount estate diamond label chardonnay rosemount estate diamond label shiraz rosemount estate rosemount estate hunter valley semillon rosemount estate mountain shiraz cabernet rosemount estate reserve chardonnay rosemount estate reserve shiraz rosemount estate label orange chardonnay rosemount estate roxburgh chardonnay rosemount estate semillon chardonnay rosemount estate reserve semillon rosemount estate traditional rossetto rossetto promenade riverina cabernet merlot rothbury rothbury estate barrel fermented chardonnay rothbury estate brokenback semillon rothbury estate brokenback shiraz rothbury estate cowra chardonnay rothbury estate hunter valley semillon rothbury estate reserve hunter valley shiraz rothbury estate shiraz rothbury estate silver label chardonnay rotherhythe rotherhythe cabernet sauvignon rotherhythe pinot rothesay rouge rouge homme cabernet sauvignon rouge homme chardonnay rouge homme pinot rouge homme richardson's block rouge homme richardson's white block rouge homme shiraz cabernet roussanne rovalley roxburgh rubicon rumball runrig russet rymill rymill cabernet sauvignon rymill coonawarra rymill traminer rymill sauvignon blanc rymill shiraz kidman wines shiraz sacred sacred basket press cabernet sauvignon sacred brokenstone merlot sacred reserve barrel fermented hawkes chardonnay sacred reserve barrel fermented sauvignon blanc sacred reserve noble selection sacred whitecliff hawke's chardonnay sacred whitecliff hawke's sauvignon blanc saddlers saddlers creek marrowbone chardonnay saint saint clair estate marlborough chardonnay saint clair estate marlborough riesling saint clair estate marlborough sauvignon blanc saints salinger salisbury salisbury estate castle crossing chambourcin salisbury estate castle crossing shiraz malbec mourvedre salisbury estate milburn grenache salitage salitage cabernet merlot salitage pinot salitage sauvignon blanc salitage unwooded chardonnay sally's salmon saltram saltram barossa reserve shiraz saltram mamre brook chardonnay saltram mamre brook shiraz saltram metala black label shiraz saltram pickwick tawny saltram shiraz hills shiraz sandalford sandalford collection classic white sandalford caversham cabernet shiraz sandalford margaret river mount barker chardonnay sandalford margaret river mount barker riesling sandalford margaret river mount barker shiraz sandalford margaret river verdelho sandhill sandihurst sandihurst pinot reserve sandihurst reserve gewurztraminer sandihurst wines riesling sandstone sandstone semillon sangiovese sarniaB sauternes sauvage sauvignonB sauvignon sauvignon scarborough scarborough chardonnay scarborough pinot scarpantoni scarpantoni estate block shirazhirazhirazhiraz scarpantoni estate block shiraz scarpantoni estate gamay scarpantoni estate sauvignon blanc scarpantoni estate school block scarpantoni estate unwooded chardonnay schinus school schuster scotchmans scotchmans chardonnay scotchmans pinot scotchmans sauvignon blanc scott seaview seaview cabernet sauvignon seaview chardonnay seaview chardonnay methode champenoise seaview edwards chaffey cabernet sauvignon seaview edwards chaffey chardonnay seaview edwards chaffey pinot chardonnay seaview edwards chaffey shiraz seaview pinot chardonnay methode champenoise seaview shiraz seaview verdelho secession seifried seifried estate chardonnay seifried estate seifried estate riesling seifried estate sauvignon blanc selaks selaks blanc blanc methode champenoise selaks drylands estate chardonnay selaks drylands estate founders reserve matador estate sauvi selaks drylands estate marlborough sauvignon blanc selaks drylands estate marlborough sauvignon blanc semillon selaks marlborough sauvignon blanc seldom seldom chardonnay select selectionH selwin's semillonr semillon seppelt seppelt liqueur seppelt dorrien cabernet sauvignon seppelt great western chalambar shiraz seppelt great western colin preece seppelt great western corella ridge chardonnay seppelt great western hermitage seppelt great western original sparkling shiraz seppelt great western partalunga chardonnay seppelt great western salinger methode champenoise seppelt great western sheoak riesling seppelt great western sparkling burgundy seppelt great western sunday creek pinot seppelt liqueur vintage tawny seppelt sherry dp117 seppelt reserve muscat seppelt tawny seresin seresin estate chardonnay seresin estate chardonnay reserve seresin estate sauvignon blanc series serventy serventy shiraz settlers sevenhill sevenhill cellars cabernet sauvignon sevenhill cellars riesling sevenhill cellars shiraz sevenhill cellars aloysius sevenhill cellars ignatius seville seville estate cabernet sauvignon seville estate shiraz shadrach shantell shantell cabernet sauvignon shantell chardonnay shantell semillon sharefarmers sharefarmers smith reserve chardonnay smith sauvignon blanc smith unoaked chardonnay sheoak shepherds sherry shingle shirazK shiraz shottesbrooke shottesbrooke chardonnay shottesbrooke eliza shiraz shottesbrooke fleurieu sauvignon blanc siegersdorf signature silver simon simon hackett mclaren anthony's reserve shiraz simon hackett mclaren cabernet sauvignon simon hackett mclaren chardonnay simon hackett mclaren grenache simon hackett semillon single skillogalee skillogalee picked riesling skillogalee riesling skillogalee shiraz skillogalee cabernets skilly smith smithbrook smithbrook cabernet merlot smithbrook chardonnay smithbrook merlot smithbrook pinot solaire soljans soljans barrique reserve chardonnay sophie's sorrenberg sorrenberg cabernet merlot franc sorrenberg gamay sorrenberg sauvignon blanc semillon south southern sparkling sparkling special spencer spencer estate chardonnay spencer estate tasman chardonnay spencer estate tasman reserve spencer evan's vineyard moutere chardonnay spencer tasman nelson riesling spring spring chardonnay springs estelle semillon chardonnay francis grenache francis boston collectors hallett blackwell shiraz hallett cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc merlot hallett valley riesling hallett gamekeeper's reserve hallett block shiraz hallett poacher's blend hallett semillon sauvignon blanc helena estate chardonnay helena estate pinot blanc helena estate pinot helena estate pinot helene cabernet shiraz huberts cabernet merlot huberts cabernet sauvignon huberts chardonnay huberts pinot huberts roussanne leonards carlyle cabernet sauvignon leonards carlyle chardonnay leonards harvest semillon leonards wahgunyah shiraz mary's riesling matthias riesling nesbit cabernet merlot yvette chardonnay stables stafford stanley stanley brothers thoroughbred cabernet sauvignon stanton stanton killeen durif stanton killeen special liqueur muscat stanton killeen vintage station statue steading stefano stefano lubiana stefano lubiana riesling steingarten steins steins steins chardonnay steins harvest riesling steins shiraz stephen stephen cabernet sauvignon stephen watervale riesling stephen watervale shiraz sterling sterling heights chardonnay sterling heights pinot sterling heights riesling steve steven stevens stevens chardonnay stevens three vineyards shiraz stevens zinfandel stockhausen stocks stone stone ridge cabernet malbec stone ridge shiraz stoneleigh stonewell stoney stoney vineyard domaine cabernet sauvignon stonier's stonier's chardonnay stonier's pinot stonier's reserve chardonnay stonier's reserve pinot stonyridge stonyridge larose cabernets storton storton riesling straits strathbogie street stringy stringy cabernet sauvignon stringy riesling stringy shiraz stripe stumpy stumpy gully marsanne stumpy gully merlot stumpy gully pinot stumpy gully sauvignon blanc sturt style summerfield summerfield cabernet sauvignon summerfield shiraz sunday sutherland sutherland chardonnay swamp sweet swinton synergy syrah t'gallant t'gallant pinot grigio t'gallant holystone t'gallant chardonnay t'gallant lyncroft pinot t'gallant tribute pinot t'gallant unwooded chardonnay t-trellis tahbilk chardonnay taltarni taltarni merlot taltarni merlot taltarni merlot cabernet taltarni sauvignon blanc taltarni shiraz talunga talunga sauvignon blanc tamburlaine tamburlaine cabernet merlot malbec tamburlaine semillon tamburlaine chapel reserve chardonnay tamburlaine chapel reserve tamburlaine verdelho taminga tapestry tarrawarra tarrawarra chardonnay tarrawarra pinot tarrawarra tunnel pinot tasman tatachilla tatachilla chardonnay tatachilla clarendon vineyard merlot tatachilla clarendon vineyard riesling tatachilla foundation shiraz tatachilla keystone tatachilla partners cabernet sauvignon shiraz tawny taylor taylors taylors cabernet sauvignon taylors chardonnay taylors clare riesling taylors shiraz kairanga cabernet merlot kairanga chardonnay kairanga pinot kairanga reserve chardonnay kairanga reserve pinot kairanga sauvignon blanc mania estate chardonnay mania estate block sauvignon blanc estate awatea cabernet merlot estate bullnose syrah estate crest sauvignon blanc estate castle sauvignon blanc estate coleraine cabernet franc merlot estate elston chardonnay temple temple bruer botrytis riesling temple bruer cabernet merlot temple bruer cornucopia grenache temple bruer riesling temple bruer shiraz malbec terra terrace terrace semillon terraces clairault thistle thistle cabernet sauvignon thistle chardonnay thistle merlot thomas thomson thorn thoroughbred three tietjen adams cabernet adams riesling adams semillon adams shiraz adams fergus grenache gramp grenache shiraz gramp mclaren shiraz gramp watervale riesling tingle tingle-wood tingle-wood tingle shiraz tingle-wood yellow tingle riesling tintara tipperary tipperary cabernets tipperary shiraz tokayG tollana tollana botrytis riesling tollana cabernet sauvignon tr222 tollana chardonnay tollana riesling tollana semillon tollana reserve shiraz torbreck torbreck runrig shiraz viognier torbreck steading grenache shiraz torlesse torlesse marlborough sauvignon blanc torlesse south island chardonnay torlesse waipara riesling tr222 traditional traditionnelle traeger tramillon traminer treasure trentham trentham estate chardonnay trentham estate merlot trentham estate noble taminga trentham estate shiraz trial tribute trinity trinity shepherds croft chardonnay trinity shepherds croft sauvignon blanc trinity shepherds croft shiraz merlot cabernet franc trinity wairarapa chardonnay trinity wairarapa riesling trout tuck's tuck's ridge chardonnay tuck's ridge pinot tuck's ridge riesling tuck's ridge semillon tulloch tulloch cabernets tulloch classic hunter white tulloch unoaked chardonnay tulloch verdelho tumbarumba tunnel turkey turkey grenache turkey turkey semillon turkey shiraz twenty tyrrell's tyrrell's brookdale/lost block semillon tyrrell's winery cabernet merlot tyrrell's winery chardonnay tyrrell's winery shiraz tyrrell's stevens shiraz tyrrell's semillon tyrrell's chardonnay tyrrell's shiraz udy's underhill university unoaked unwooded unwooded uppercase vale/coonawarra valleyt valleys vasse vasse felix cabernet sauvignon vasse felix classic white vasse felix heytesbury vasse felix reserve chardonnay vasse felix semillon vasse felix shiraz vavasour vavasour awatere valley cabernet sauvignon vavasour awatere valley chardonnay vavasour awatere valley sauvignon blanc vavasour dashwood sauvignon blanc vavasour pinot vavasour single vineyard chardonnay vavasour single vineyard sauvignon blanc verdelho verdot vicar victoria victorian vidal vidal estate hawke's chardonnay vidal estate pinot vidal estate private blanc vidal estate private gewurztraminer vidal estate reserve cabernet merlot vidal estate reserve cabernet sauvignon vidal estate reserve chardonnay vidal estate chardonnay vidal hawke's sauvignon blanc villa villa villa maria cellar selection chardonnay villa maria cellar selection sauvignon blanc villa maria private gisborne chardonnay villa maria private rhine riesling villa maria private sauvignon blanc villa maria reserve barrique fermented chardonnay villa maria reserve cabernet sauvignon villa maria reserve clifford sauvignon blanc villa maria reserve marlborough chardonnay villa maria reserve merlot cabernet villa maria reserve noble riesling villa maria reserve riesling villa maria wairau valley reserve sauvignon blanc vines vineyard vineyards vineyards vintage viognier violet violet merlot virage virage cabernet merlot virage semillon chardonnay virgin virgin hills virginia virtuoso estate pinot estate reserve chardonnay estate sauvignon blanc voyager voyager estate cabernet merlot voyager estate chardonnay voyager estate semillon noble sauvignon blanc sauvignon blanc wahgunyah waiheke waimauku waipara waipara springs chardonnay waipara springs riesling waipara springs sauvignon blanc waipara springs wines pinot wairarapa wairau wairau river chardonnay wairau river sauvignon blanc walker walker estate riesling walnut walnut ridge botrytised sauvignon blanc walnut ridge pinot wandin wandin valley estate bridie's shiraz wandin valley estate semillon wandin valley estate reserve cabernet sauvignon wandin valley pavilion wandin valley reserve chardonnay waninga waninga cabernet sauvignon waninga shiraz waninga skilly hills riesling wantirna wantirna estate cabernet merlot wantirna estate isabella chardonnay wantirna estate pinot warburn warra warramate warramate cabernet sauvignon warramate riesling warramate shiraz warrenmang warrenmang bazzani cabernet shiraz dolcetto warrenmang estate shiraz warrenmang grand pyrenees water water wheel bendigo chardonnay water wheel cabernet sauvignon water wheel shiraz watervale wattle weaver wellington wellington chardonnay wellington riesling wellington pinot wellington riesling wendouree wendouree cabernet malbec wendouree cabernet sauvignon wendouree shiraz wendouree shiraz malbec wendouree shiraz mataro brook barrique fermented chardonnay brook ridge sauvignon blanc westend westend bridges cabernet sauvignon westend golden botrytis semillon western westfield westfield chardonnay wharncliffe wharncliffe chardonnay wheel whispering white white whitecliff whitehaven whitehaven sauvignon blanc whitehead whitmore wignalls wignalls cabernet sauvignon wignalls chardonnay wignalls pinot wignalls reserve pinot wilderness wilderness estate reserve chardonnay wildwood wildwood cabernets wildwood chardonnay wildwood merlot cabernet franc wildwood pinot taylor adelaide hills sauvignon blanc taylor clare valley riesling willespie willespie cabernet sauvignon willespie sauvignon blanc willespie semillon sauvignon blanc william willow willow chardonnay willow shiraz merlot willow creek pinot willow creek unwooded chardonnay willowbank willowbrook white wilson@ wither hills sauvignon blanc@ wynns coonawarra estate black label cabernet sauvignon@ yalumba cabernet merlot yarra yarra semillon sauvignon blanc@ adams avalon vineyard@ bellingham vineyards@ bowen brookfields cambewarra estate@ chapel clifford cooter cruickshank-callatoo@ derwent elgee@ estate fishburn o'keefe giesen estate@ grove hayward's whitehead creek hillsD hunter's wines kairanga knappstein wines@ lawsons hills lindemans karadoc@ marlborough meadow mitchelton mount helen@ noon@ paracombe wines peterson house 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young/cowra yvette estate cabernet sauvignon estate cluny estate shiraz zinfandel abbey abbey river adams adams adelaide alkoomi saints allan allan scott wines allandale allanmere allinda amberley amberley estate amery andrew andrew garrett andrew harris vineyards angove's apsley apsley gorge vineyard aquila aquila estate ariki arlewood arlewood estate arrowfield arthurs arthurs creek estate ashbrook ashbrook estate ashtonD ashton hillsD ashwell ashwell vineyards askerne rangi auckland augustine auldstone austin's austin's barrabool avalon avalon vineyard avoca babich baileysG baileys glenrowanG mountain baldivis baldivis estate balgownie balgownie estate balnaves balnaves coonawarra bannockburn^ bannockburn vineyards^ barossa barossa settlers barossa valley estate barrabool barratt barrington barrington estate barry barwang barwang vineyard basedow bassb phillipb beckett's beckett's beckworth bellingham bellingham vineyards beresford beresford wines best's best's wines bethanyc bethany winesc beverford bianchet bimbadgen bimbadgen estate bindi bindi growers birdwood birdwood estate black black ridge blackjack blackjack vineyards blass bleasdale bleasdale vineyards bloodwood bloodwood estate pyrenees estate vineyard boneo boneo plains bortoli boston boston wines botobolar bowenh bowen bowen estateh boynton's boynton's bright brand'sl brand's lairal brangayne brangayne orange bream bream creek vineyard breeze bremerton bremerton wines briagolong briagolong estate brian brian barry wines briar briar ridge bridgewater bridgewater bright brindabellao brindabella hillso britannia britannia falls estate broke broke estate brokenwood brook brookfields brookfields brookfields vineyards brooklandt brookland valleyt brothersv brownv brown brothersv browns browns padthaway bruer bullers bullers beverford bullers calliope burge{ burge family winemakers{ buring burramurra winery cairnbrae cairnbrae wines calais calais estates calliope cambewarra cambewarra estate campbells 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coopers creek cooter cooter cope-williams corbans corbans auckland corbans gisborne corbans hawke's corbans marlborough coriole corner cottage covell covell estate cowra cowra estate crabtree crabtree watervale craig craig vineyard craiglee craigmoor cranswick cranswick estate crawford crawford river wines creek cross cross roads winery cruickshank-callatoo cruickshank-callatoo estate cullen currency currency creek wines d'arenberg dalfarras dalrymple dalwhinnie daniel daniel schuster darling darling estate darling darlington darlington estate david david traeger bortoli bortoli victoria gyffarde redcliffe estates deakin deakin estate delatite delegat's delegat's estate demondrille demondrille vineyards dennis derwent derwent derwent estate devil's devil's diamond diamond valley vineyards domaine domaine chandon donnelly donnelly river wines doole doonkuna doonkuna estate dorrien dorrien estate dowie dowie doole downs drayton drayton's driftwood driftwood estate dromana dromana estate river drylands dulcinea duncan duncan estate eastern eastern peake elderton eldredge elgee elgee eling eling forest winery elsewhere elsewhere vineyard enough eppalock eppalock ridge valley estate estateh estate estate estates eurunderee eurunderee flats winery evans evans family evans eyton-on-yarra fairhall fairhall downs estate falls family{ farrell's farrell's limestone creek felix fergusson fermoy fermoy estate estate field fields fishburn fishburn o'keefe fishburn o'keefe flats flight folly forest forrest forrest estate creek wines foxes foxes island wines framingham francis frankland frankland estate fraser fraser vineyard freycinet fyffe fyffe field galafrey galah galah garden garden gully vineyards garrett gembrook gembrook geoff geoff merrill geoff weaver ghiran ghost giaconda gibbston gibbston valley giesen giesen estate gilbert gillan gillan wines gisborne gladstone gladstone vineyard glenara glenara wines glenayr glenmark glenmark wines glenrowanG gloucester gloucester ridge vineyard golders golders vineyard goldwater goldwater estate goona goona warra vineyard gorge goundrey gralyn gralyn cellars gramp granite grant grant burge great greenhough greenhough vineyard grosset grove grove grove growers gully estate gyffarde hackett hallett hamelin hamelin hamilton hanging hanging winery hanson happs hardys hardys padthaway harewood harewood estate harrier harrier vineyard harris harwood haselgrove ariki wines hawke's hawkesbridge hawkesbridge wines hawley hawley vineyard hayward's hayward's whitehead creek hayward's whitehead creek heemskerk heggies heggies vineyard heights helen helena helm's henschke heritage heritage wines hermitage hermitage wines herons herons flight hershon hickinbotham highbank highfield highfield estate highland highland heritage estate hill-smith hill-smith estate hills hillsD hillstowe hollick hollyclare holmes holmes brothers homme honeytree honeytree estate horrocks hotham hotham valley estate houghton house howard howard huberts hamilton hungerford hungerford hunter hunter ridge hunter's hunter's wines hunter's wines huntington huntington estate hurtle huthlee huthlee estate idyll idyll vineyard inglewood inglewood vineyards ingoldby wines irvine isabel isabel estate vineyard island jackson jackson estate jackson's jackson's jaffa james brook estate jardee jasper jasper jenke jenke vineyards barry wines jingalla johanneshof johanneshof cellars kaesler kairanga kairanga kangarilla kangarilla vineyard winery kangaroo kangaroo island vines vineyard karadoc karina karina vineyard seppelt karrivale karriview katnook katnook estate amery kellybrook kemblefield kemblefield estate kidman killawarra killeen killerby crawford wines kindale kindale wines kings kings creek vineyard kingston kingston estate kingtree kingtree wines kinvarra kinvarra estate knappstein knappstein wines knight knight granite hills kominos koppamurra kraanwood krondorf kumeu kumeu river wines kyeema kyeema estate lairal barrington estate breeze wines chalice wines lake's lake's folly lalla lalla gully vineyard lamont lamont wines langi langmeil langmeil winery laurel laurel lauren lauren brook lawson lawson lawsons lawsons hills lawsons hills leamon leasingham leconfield leeuwin leeuwin estate lehmann lengs lengs cooter lennards lennards brook estate lenswood lenswood vineyards lenton lenton estate buring leonards liebichwein lillydale lillydale vineyards lillypilly lillypilly estate limestone lincoln lincoln vineyards lindemans lindemans coonawarra lindemans hunter valley lindemans karadoc lindemans padthaway linden linden estate lintz lintz estate lirralirra lirralirra estate little's little's winery gully estate longleat family wines lubiana madew madew wines maglieri ridge estate majella malcolm malcolm creek mania margrain margrain vineyard maria marienberg mariners mariners maritime maritime estate rattray vineyards marlborough marlborough marribrook marsh marsh estate martinborough martinborough vineyard mary's marybrook marybrook estate massoni massoni creek matariki matariki wines matawhero matawhero wines matilda's matilda's meadow matthias matua matua valley maxwell maxwell wines mcalister mcalister vineyards mcdonald mcdonald winery mcguigan mcguigan brothers mclaren mcwilliam's mcwilliam's mount pleasant meadow meadow meadowbank meadowbank wines meerea meerea melton mentelle merlen merlen wines merricks merricks estate merrill merrivale merrivale wines mildara mildara coonawarra millinup millinup estate mills mills winery millton millton vineyard mintaro mintaro wines miramar miranda miranda rovalley estate mission mission estate winery mitchell mitchelton mitchelton monichino monichino wines montana montana wines montrose moondah moondah brook moorilla moorilla estate moorooduc moorooduc estate morningside morningside wines mornington mornington vineyards morris morton morton estate brothers mount mount avoca vineyard mount beckworth mount gisborne wines mount helen mount horrocks mount hurtle mount mount langi ghiran vineyards mount mount prior vineyard mount riley mountadam mountain mountford moutere moutere hills vineyard house muirlea muirlea murdoch murdoch james estate murrindindi narkoojee nautilus nautilus wines nepenthe nepenthe vineyards nesbit neudorf neudorf vineyards vineyard ngatarawa ngatarawa wines nicholson nicholson river nobilo winery normans notley notley gorge o'keefe oakridge oakridge estate oakvale okahu okahu estate river omaka omaka springs estate omihi omihi hills orange orlando orlando padthaway osborns osborns harwood vineyard osicka padthaway padthaway estate palliser palliser estate palmara palmers panorama paracombe paracombe wines paracombe wines paradise paradise enough paringa paringa estate parker parker coonawarra estate passing passing clouds pattersons conti osicka paulett peake pegasus pegasus pendarves pendarves estate penfolds penley penley estate pepper pepper pertaringa petaluma peter peter lehmann peter rumball wines peterson peterson house peterson house petersons pewsey pewsey phillipb phillip island vineyard picardy piccadilly piccadilly fields pierro piesse piesse brook pikes pipers pipers brook vineyard pirramimma pizzini plains plantagenet pleasant pleasant valley wines plunkett ponder ponder estate ponds poole's poole's poplar poplar phillip estate portree preston preston primo primo estate prior providence providence vineyards punters punters corner pyrenees queen queen adelaide quelltaler rangi rattray ravenswood ravenswood vineyard ray-monde estate redbank redbank winery redcliffe redgate redman drayton wines reilly's reilly's cottage renmano reynell reynolds reynolds yarraman ribbon ribbon estate richard richard hamilton richmond richmond grove ridge ridge riley rimfire rimfire vineyards rippon rippon vineyard rivendell river riverina riverina wines riverside riverside wines roads robinsons robinsons family vineyards robinvale rochecombe rochecombe vineyard rochford rockford rocklea rocklea vineyard rongopai rongopai wines rosabrook rosabrook estate rosebank rosebank rosebank estate rosemount rosemount estate hunter valley rosemount estate mclaren rossetto rothbury rothbury estate rotherhythe rouge rouge homme rovalley rumball rymill kidman wines sacred sacred saddlers saddlers creek saint saint clair estate saints salisbury salisbury estate salitage saltram hills vineyard sandalford sandihurst sandihurst sandihurst wines sandstone scarborough scarpantoni scarpantoni estate schuster scotchmans scotchmans scott seaview seifried seifried estate selaks selaks drylands estate winery selaks wines auckland seldom seldom vineyard seppelt seppelt great western seresin seresin estate serventy settlers sevenhill sevenhill cellars seville seville estate shantell smith smith shottesbrooke simon simon hackett skillogalee smith smithbrook soljans soljans wines sorrenberg spencer spencer estate spring spring vineyards springs francis hallett helena estate huberts leonards mary's matthias nesbit stanley stanley brothers stanton stanton killeen wines station stefano stefano lubiana steins stephen stephen wines sterling sterling heights stevens stevens estate stone stone ridge stoney stoney vineyard stonier's stonyridge stonyridge vineyard stringy stringy stumpy stumpy gully sturt summerfield sutherland t'gallant tahbilk wines taltarni talunga tamburlaine tarrawarra tarrawarra estate tatachilla taylor taylors kairanga wines mania estate estate waiheke vineyards temple temple bruer terrace terrace thistle thistle adams gramp tingle-wood tipperary tipperary estate tollana torbreck torbreck vintners torlesse traeger trentham trentham estate trinity trinity tuck's tuck's ridge tulloch turkey turkey tyrrell's university valleyt vasse vasse felix vavasour vavasour wines victoria vidal vidal estate villa villa maria vines vineyard vineyard vineyards^ vintners violet violet vineyard virage virgin virgin hills estate voyager voyager estate waiheke waipara vineyard waipara taylor wines wines 11-15 16-20 21-25 26-50 under adelaide barossa barossa valley central goulburn valley clare valley great hawke's hunter lower margaret mclaren mclaren murray/sunraysia northern tasmania regions southern valley victoria yarra valley noteh changed waipara waipara springs wines wairau wairau river wines walker walker estate walnut walnut ridge wandin wandin valley estate waninga wantirna wantirna estate warra warramate warrenmang warrenmang vineyard water water wheel watervale weaver wellington wendouree brook winery westend western westfield wharncliffe wheel whitehaven whitehaven company whitehead wignalls wignalls wines wilderness wilderness estate wildwood taylor wines taylor wines willespie willow willow willow creek wilson wilson vineyard wilton wilton estate windy windy ridge vineyard winemakers{ winery winesc wines winstead wirilda wirilda creek wirra wirra wirra wither wither hills vineyards blass woodonga woodonga woodstock woody woody 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hunterr hunter intro irrigation island kauwhata valley/high country langhorne langhorne creek limestone limestone coast lowerr lower lower hunter valleyr macedon/sunbury margarett margaret margaret rivert marlborough marlborough intro mclaren mclaren mclaren mclaren mornington mornington peninsula mount mount benson valley mudgee murray murray valley murray/sunraysia murray/sunraysia murrumbidgee murrumbidgee irrigation christchurch nelson north north victoria north-easternG north-eastern victoriaG northern northern tasmania northern tasmania orange otago other other south wales regions padthaway pemberton peninsula perth perth hills plain plains pyrenees queensland queensland regions regions rivert south south coast south-west south-west coastal plain southern southern southern peninsula southern tasmania valley tasmania kauwhata upper upper hunter valley valleyM valley valley valley/high victoriaG victoria waiheke waiheke island waipara wairarapa wales wellington/wairarapa western 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barwang vineyard bassb phillipb beckett's beckett's beckworth bellingham bellingham vineyards beresford beresford wines best's best's wines bethanyc bethany winesc beverford bianchet bimbadgen bimbadgen estate bindi bindi growers blackjack blackjack vineyards blass bloodwood bloodwood estate pyrenees estate vineyard bortoli boston boston wines botobolar bowenh bowen estateh brand'sl brand's lairal brangayne brangayne orange bream bream creek vineyard breeze bremerton bremerton wines briagolong briagolong estate brian brian barry wines briar briar ridge brindabellao brindabella hillso britannia britannia falls estate brokenwood brook brookfields brookfields vineyards brooklandt brookland brookland valleyt brothersv brownv brown brothersv bruer bullers bullers beverford bullers calliope burge{ burge family winemakers{ buring burramurra winery cairnbrae cairnbrae wines calliope cambewarra cambewarra estate campbells canadoro canobolas-smith clairault mentelle capel capel capercaillie casella cassegrain castle castle estate catherine catherine vineyard cellars cellier cellier chain chain ponds chancellor chancellor wines waipara chandon chapel chapel chard chard charles charles cimicky charles melton charles sturt university winery chateau chateau leamon chateau tahbilk chatsfield chestnut chestnut grove cimicky clair clairault clarendon clarendon hills winery clearview clearview estate cleveland cliff cliff house clifford clifford clonakilla clouds cloudy cloudy cloudy clover clover cobaw cobaw ridge cockfighter's cockfighter's ghost vineyard cofield coldstream coldstream hills collards company conti coolangatta coolangatta estate coonawarra coopers coopers creek cooter cope-williams corbans corbans gisborne corbans hawke's corbans marlborough coriole corner covell covell estate cowra cowra estate craiglee cranswick cranswick estate crawford crawford crawford river wines creek cross cross roads winery cruickshank-callatoo cruickshank-callatoo estate cullen d'arenberg dalfarras dalrymple dalwhinnie daniel daniel schuster darling darling darlington darlington estate david david traeger bortoli bortoli victoria gyffarde redcliffe estates deakin deakin estate delatite delegat's delegat's estate demondrille demondrille vineyards derwent derwent estate derwent estate devil's devil's diamond diamond valley vineyards domaine domaine chandon doonkuna doonkuna estate dorrien dorrien estate downs drayton driftwood driftwood estate dromana dromana estate river drylands dulcinea eastern eastern peake elderton eldredge elsewhere elsewhere vineyard eppalock eppalock ridge valley estate estateh estate estate estates eurunderee eurunderee flats winery evans evans family evans eyton-on-yarra fairhall fairhall downs estate falls family{ felix fergusson fermoy fermoy estate estate field fields fishburn fishburn o'keefe flats flight folly forrest forrest estate creek wines foxes foxes island wines framingham frankland frankland estate frankland estate freycinet fyffe fyffe field galah galah garden garden gully vineyards garrett gembrook gembrook geoff geoff merrill geoff weaver ghiran ghost giaconda gibbston gibbston valley giesen giesen estate gilbert gillan gillan wines gisborne gladstone gladstone vineyard glenara glenara wines glenrowanG golders golders vineyard goldwater goldwater estate gorge goundrey gralyn gralyn cellars gramp granite grant grant burge great greenhough greenhough vineyard grosset grove grove growers gully gyffarde hackett hallett hamelin hamelin hamilton hanging hanging winery hanson happs hardys harewood harewood estate harrier harrier vineyard harwood haselgrove ariki wines hawke's hawkesbridge hawkesbridge wines hawley hawley vineyard hayward's hayward's whitehead creek heemskerk heggies heggies vineyard heights helen helm's henschke heritage heritage wines hermitage hermitage wines herons herons flight highfield highfield estate hill-smith hill-smith estate hillsD hillstowe hollick holmes holmes brothers homme honeytree honeytree estate horrocks houghton house house/le howard howard huberts hungerford hungerford hunter hunter ridge hunter's hunter's wines huntington huntington estate hurtle ingoldby irvine isabel isabel estate vineyard island jackson jackson estate james jasper jasper jenke jenke vineyards barry wines johanneshof johanneshof cellars kaesler kairanga kangarilla kangarilla vineyard winery kangaroo kangaroo island vines vineyard karadoc karina karina vineyard karina vineyard katnook katnook estate kellybrook kemblefield kemblefield estate kidman killeen killerby crawford wines kingston kingston estate kingtree kingtree wines kinvarra kinvarra estate knappstein knappstein wines knight knight granite hills koppamurra kraanwood krondorf kumeu kumeu river wines kyeema kyeema estate lairal breeze wines lake's lake's folly lalla lalla gully vineyard lamont lamont wines langi langmeil langmeil winery laurel laurel lauren lauren brook lawson lawson lawsons lawsons hills leamon leasingham leconfield leeuwin leeuwin estate lehmann lengs lengs cooter lenswood lenswood vineyards buring leonards lillydale lillydale vineyards lillypilly lillypilly estate lincoln lincoln vineyards lindemans lindemans coonawarra lindemans hunter valley lindemans karadoc lindemans padthaway linden linden estate lintz lintz estate lirralirra lirralirra estate gully estate family wines lubiana ridge estate majella malcolm malcolm creek mania margrain margrain vineyard maria marlborough marribrook martinborough martinborough vineyard massoni massoni creek matariki matariki wines matawhero matawhero wines matilda's matilda's meadow matthias matua matua valley maxwell maxwell wines mcdonald mcdonald mcdonald winery mclaren mcwilliam's mcwilliam's mount pleasant meadow meadowbank meadowbank wines meerea meerea melton mentelle merlen merlen wines merrill mildara mildara coonawarra mills mills winery millton millton vineyard miramar miranda miranda rovalley estate mission mission estate winery mitchell mitchelton monichino monichino wines montana montana wines montana wines montrose moondah moondah brook moorilla moorilla estate moorooduc moorooduc estate morris morton morton estate mount mount avoca vineyard mount beckworth mount helen mount horrocks mount hurtle mount mount langi ghiran vineyards mount riley mountadam mountain mountford moutere moutere hills vineyard house/le muirlea muirlea murdoch murdoch james estate murrindindi nautilus nautilus wines nepenthe nepenthe vineyards neudorf neudorf vineyards vineyard ngatarawa ngatarawa wines nicholson nicholson river nobilo winery normans notley notley gorge o'keefe oakridge oakridge estate river omaka omaka springs estate orange orlando osborns osborns harwood vineyard osicka padthaway padthaway estate palliser palliser estate palmara palmers paracombe paracombe paracombe wines paringa paringa estate parker parker coonawarra estate passing passing clouds pattersons conti osicka peake pegasus pegasus pendarves 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winery winesc wines winstead wirilda wirilda creek wirra wirra wirra wither wither hills vineyards blass woodonga woodonga woodstock woody woody wyndham wyndham estate wynns wynns coonawarra estate xanadu xanadu wines yaldara yalumba yanwirra yarra yarra yarra yarra ridge yarra yarra yarra yering yarrabank yarraman yering yering station yeringberg estate ALL RECORDS BACKGROUND BACKGROUND CHECK BACKGROUND DATE CREATED BACKGROUND DATE MODIFIED BEST RECENT VINTAGES BNEW TASTING NOTE BOOK DRINKING SPAN BOOK TAG BOOK VINTAGE BOOK VINTAGE ID BOOK WINERY NAME BVINTAGES EXIST : CELLARING CLASS CLASSIC WINE COUNTRY CURRENT VINTAGE FORMATTED PRICE FULL NAME GRAPE VARIETIES GUESSED LABEL GUESSED VARIETY GUESSED WINERY HC CELLARING YEARS HC WINE STYLE HC WINE TYPE INCLUDE IN BOOK LABEL LATE TASTE NOTE TAG MARKED MATCHING FOOD MOST RECENT VINTAGE MOST RECENT VINTAGE RATING PORTAL COUNT PRICE PRICE GROUP REGION REQUESTED WINE NAME SCRIPT RESULT SERIAL NO. SIZEOF MATCHING FOOD STATUS VARIETY VARIETY CHAR POS VARIETY WORD COUNT VH BACKGROUND VH BEST RECENT VINTAGES VH CELLARING VH MATCHING FOOD VH PRICE VH WINE WINE RATING WINE RATING RANGE @ P0 Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday January February March April August September October November December 1st Quarter 2nd Quarter 3rd Quarter 4th Quarter `RgSd] 7/28/98 *Wine No. List Classic list aust wines by type aust wines bt style aust wines by rating aust wines classics aust wines by cellaring years *Form A Cellaring Tasting Notes Classic *class list *winery name *HC wine style *price *late *late wines *number list *Form CD *Best drinking All fields *Form Copy *number/score Book Export Fields Book Export Summary Express Tags Setup Express Tags Summary Book Tasting Notes Layout #32 form JH Update Book Text Tasting Notes @ A Update Book Tagged Tasting Notes HarperCollins form Vintages Book Vintages Startup WINE STYLE # WINE TYPE WINERY WINERY NAMEID WINERY WORD COUNT X MOST RECENT VINTAGE X WINE REGION XT BOOK TAGGED TASTING NOTES XT BOOK TEXT TASTING NOTES ' XT FOOTER XT HEADER XT ICON HALF WINE GLASS XT ICON WINE GLASS XT WINE TAGGED SUMMARY XT WINE TEXT SUMMARY XTH BACKGROUND XTH BEST RECENT VINTAGES XTH CELLARING XTH MATCHING FOOD XTH PRICE XTH WINE WineryB Wine RatingB PriceB BackgroundB A CellaringB Best Recent VintagesB Current VintageB Matching FoodB StatusB DateB Grape VarietiesB RegionB "A Wine TypeB Wine StyleB Classic WineB Label VarietyB hc cellaring yearsB hc wine typeB hc wine styleB CountryB _A Full NameB " ") & M = "" M & " ") & N = "" N & " ") Winery NameIDB Price GroupB ClassB x Wine RegionB Late taste note tagB serial no.B x Most Recent VintageB ) > 0 sizeof Matching FoodB Background checkB Background date modifiedB Background date createdB XT Wine Text SummaryB XT Wine Tagged SummaryB A XT Header XTH WineB XTH BackgroundB XTH CellaringB XTH Best Recent VintagesB XTH Matching FoodB A XTH PriceB A XT FooterB VH WineB VH BackgroundB VH CellaringB VH Best Recent VintagesB VH Matching FoodB VH PriceB XT Icon Wine GlassB XT Icon Half Wine GlassB Formatted PriceB "NA" "$" & ) & "." & 3(10*( ))) & 5 + 10*( 10*( )) - 3(10*( )) + 0 Book VintageB ) > 10000 ) - 10000 Book Vintage IDB & ":" & Book Drinking SpanB & " - " & Include in bookB MarkedB Book Winery NameB Book tagB XT Book Text Tasting NotesB XT Book Tagged Tasting NotesB Portal CountB all recordsB Most Recent VintageB Most Recent Vintage RatingB bNew Tasting NoteB \) > 0 Wine Rating RangeB "NR" / 5) * 5) & " - " & ( / 5) * 5 + 4)) script resultB guessed WineryB guessed LabelB guessed VarietyB variety char posB variety word countB winery word countB tempB requested wine nameB bVintages ExistB ) > 0 0@B:<*p(0,0,0,15,11,0,g,"International English")> @C:<t9h119.9997z6.5f"Frutiger-BoldCn">lbest drinking <t0h100z7.5f"Bembo"> G <t9h119.9997z6.5f"Frutiger-BoldCn">best vintages <t0h100z7.5f"Bembo"> D <t9h119.9997z6.5f"Frutiger-BoldCn">drink with <t0h100z7.5f"Bembo"> BEST DRINKING BEST VINTAGES DRINK WITH -5526 My Wine My Wine Angove 13.15 A new venture for Angove s which has hitherto produced almost all of its wines from its Nanya Vineyard in the Riverland, making occasional Limited Release/Winemaker Selection with grapes purchased from various premium areas. 1993 was the inaugural vintage. As with the Chardonnay, gained the name Sarnia Farm with the second release, and which really impresses with its most recent release. It may well be that a maturing vineyard and/or better viticulture is playing a role. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Beef Proven 15/7/98` CSa Riverlandb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Sarnia Farm Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _'Angove s Sarnia Farm Cabernet Sauvignon Angove $11-15 Adelaide Hills 15/7/98 Angove *Wine No. ListB Classic listB JH wine region Region HC (from winery screen) u Rating - v wry namew x Wine Region Country aust wines by typeB aust wines bt styleB hc wine type aust wines by ratingB hc wine style aust wines classicsB aust wines by cellaring yearsB Classic Wine *FormB InfoB Drink With Best Vtgs Price Wine Entry Date Tasted open wineries A CellaringB Classic? Background Matching Food Status Current Vte Best Vtgs Price Winery hc wine type / style Classic Cellaring Full Name Label Variety Winery NameID $(for linking from Wineries Database) Price Group Winery Region Go To Winery Most Recent Vintage & Rating Book Vintage & Rating Include in book Tasting Notes Wine Style Wine Rating Tasting NotesB Classic? Status Current Vte Best Vtgs Cellaring Price Winery hc cellaring years Tasting Notes Classic Cellaring Label Variety hc wine type hc wine style y 0 = Drink now 2 = 0-2 Years 5 = 2-5 Years 8 = 5-8 Years 10 = 8-10 Years 15 = 10-15 Years 99 = 15+ Years Most Recent Vintage & Rating Book Vintage & Rating Book Drinking Span ClassicB Classic? Status Price Winery Date Tasted Book TN Classic Cellaring Label Variety Rating Most Recent Vintage & Rating Book Vintage & Rating Tasting Notes bNew Tasting Note *class listB Classic? Status Price Winery Tasting Notes Classic Cellaring Label Variety Classic Name Picture Number Go to Classic Most Recent Vintage & Rating Book Vintage & Rating *winery nameB Winery~ Winery NameID *HC wine styleB *priceB hc wine style Class hc wine type *lateB *late winesB *number listB LATE NOTE CHECK LIST *Form CDB *Best drinkingB Classic? 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This page is a setup page for the Xpress Tag creation. DO NOT MODIFY unless you really know what you are doing. These fields are inserted as part of the Xpress Tag export. Express tags relating to individual Wine entries can be found in the Wines and the Tasting Notes databases. OSTasting Note information (including appropriate Xpress Tags) will be inserted here.Y'This is the text used for proof readingZhNote: leading and trailing spaces and returns ARE significant, and will be carried through to the export\ XTH Wine^ XTH Backgrounda XTH Cellaringb XTH Best Recent Vintagesc XTH Matching Foodd XTH Pricef XT Icon Wine Glassh XT Icon Half Wine Glass Layout #32B Classic? Status Price Winery Date Tasted Tasting Notes Classic Cellaring Label Variety Rating Most Recent Vintage & Rating Book Vintage & Rating Book TN form JHB Update Book Text Tasting NotesB Wine Entry Price Best Vtgs Drink With drink Tasted .A Update Book Tagged Tasting NotesB Update List (hides empty cells) HarperCollins form # TN included in bookK Update List (hides empty cells) VintagesB Wine Entry Price Best Vtgs Drink With drink Tasted hc cellaring years hc wine type hc wine style Book VintagesB Classic? Status Price Winery Date Tasted Book TN Classic Cellaring Label Variety Rating Most Recent Vintage & Rating Book Vintage & Rating Vintages tasting note StartupB Classic? Status Price Winery Date Tasted Tasting Notes Classic Cellaring Label Variety Rating Most Recent Vintage & Rating Book Vintage & Rating Book Vintages Ashton HillsP A wine of unusually consistent style, and which invariably ages slowly. The natural acidity is high, and the fruit always tight and often inexpressive when the wine is young, slowly opening up as it evolves in bottle. These elegant wines are ideal to complement food. 5 years or moreS! 1996U Fresh asparagusX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Ashton Hills Riesling Ashton Hills $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Ashton Hills [5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is fragrant, with intense passionfruit and lime aromas, the palate crisp, clean and firm, with lime and mineral flavours. Great acidity and a long finish. Will develop superbly. RATING: 94 [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; an attractive bouquet with sweet cassis and cedar aromas is followed by a palate which, while only of medium weight, is quite luscious, with sweet cassis/berry fruit supported by sweet oak. Soft tannin finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; an attractive bouquet with sweet cassis and cedar aromas is followed by a palate which, while only of medium weight, is quite luscious, with sweet cassis/berry fruit supported by sweet oak. Soft tannin finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Ashton HillsP RAs with all the Ashton Hills wines, these are Pinots relying on finesse and elegance, rather than on power or obvious fruit flavours. Winemaker Stephen George employs the full gamut of winemaking techniques, and has an extraordinary 19 different clones of pinot planted in 1 hectare of vines, necessarily providing yet further complexity. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U SquabX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Ashton Hills Pinot Noir Ashton Hills $21-25 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Ashton Hills @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is fragrant, with intense passionfruit and lime aromas, the palate crisp, clean and firm, with lime and mineral flavours. Great acidity and a long finish. Will develop superbly.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 BaileysP *The midpoint of the Tokays produced by Baileys, coming between Warby Range at the bottom end and Winemaker s Selection at the top end. In the totally distinctive, rich and sweet Baileys style, with more accent on complexity and less on primary fruit than that of Morris; one of the great classics. IndefiniteS NAU$Winter aperitif; summer after dinnerX 14/7/98` MUa Glenrowanb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Founder Liqueur Tokay X Fortified Tokay Z Australia Baileys Founder Liqueur Tokay Baileys of Glenrowan $16-20 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Baileys of Glenrowan [4wine glasses] Medium golden brown; full, complex sweeter style of Tokay with clean spirit. The palate is rich, full and textured with flavours of butterscotch and sweet biscuit, and a chewy texture, but finishing long and clean. RATING: 89 H[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; youthful fruit aromas with a touch of mint, and still building complexity on the bouquet. There is more to the mouthfilling plummy palate, with quite strong fruit, although, like the bouquet, needs to build complexity, and will probably do so with more time in bottle. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; youthful fruit aromas with a touch of mint, and still building complexity on the bouquet. There is more to the mouthfilling plummy palate, with quite strong fruit, although, like the bouquet, needs to build complexity, and will probably do so with more time in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 BaileysP Made in very limited quantities, and these days released on strict allocation as the popularity of these very old wines has deservedly grown. Made from muscadelle (as are all north eastern Victorian Tokays) and is preferred by many winemakers to Muscat because of its greater elegance. IndefiniteS NAU#After coffee; alternative to CognacX 14/7/98` MUa Glenrowanb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Winemaker s Selection Old Liqueur Tokay X Fortified Tokay Z Australia _/Baileys Winemaker s Selection Old Liqueur Tokay Baileys of Glenrowan North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Baileys of Glenrowan @BM bold:XXXX NV <f"Bembo">Medium golden brown; full, complex sweeter style of Tokay with clean spirit. The palate is rich, full and textured with flavours of butterscotch and sweet biscuit, and a chewy texture, but finishing long and clean.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 BaileysP DMade from Brown Frontignac, otherwise known as Brown Muscat, and the best known of the fortified wines of north eastern Victoria. As one would expect, in the rich Baileys mould. One of four Muscats produced, starting at the bottom with Warby Range, then Founder Liqueur, then Gold Label and ultimately Winemaker s Selection. IndefiniteS NAU#After coffee; alternative to CognacX 14/7/98` FRa Glenrowanb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Founder Liqueur Muscat X Fortified Muscat Z Australia Baileys Founder Liqueur Muscat Baileys of Glenrowan $16-20 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Baileys of Glenrowan [4wine glasses] Medium red-brown; an arresting bouquet with hints of spice to the sweet, ripe, complex fruit. The same unusual spicy/cinnamon aspects are apparent on the rich and complex palate. RATING: 88 r[5wine glasses] Deep brown; the bouquet shows obvious barrel-aged rancio characters, very complex but still retaining good varietal character. The wine has outstanding structure in the mouth, with complexity apparent immediately the wine is tasted. The flavours run in the cold tea/butterscotch/brandysnap spectrum, finishing with cleansing acidity. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Deep brown; the bouquet shows obvious barrel-aged rancio characters, very complex but still retaining good varietal character. The wine has outstanding structure in the mouth, with complexity apparent immediately the wine is tasted. The flavours run in the cold tea/butterscotch/brandysnap spectrum, finishing with cleansing acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 BaileysP %Baileys was founded in 1870 by Varley Bailey, and in 1920 to celebrate the 50th anniversary a special block of shiraz was planted. It is from these vines that the wine is made, first produced in 1991 and immediately proclaiming its class. Only 900 cases of the wine are produced each year. Up to 20 yearsS 1993U Rare rump steak, venisonX 14/7/98` SHa Glenrowanb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red s Block Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Baileys 1920 s Block Shiraz Baileys of Glenrowan $21-25 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Baileys of Glenrowan @BM bold:XXXX NV <f"Bembo">Medium red-brown; an arresting bouquet with hints of spice to the sweet, ripe, complex fruit. The same unusual spicy/cinnamon aspects are apparent on the rich and complex palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 PenfoldsP rA multi-region blend sourced from the Barossa and Clare Valleys, McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek regions. There is a good argument to be made that it should be Bin 28, rather than Bin 389, which is Poor Man s Grange . The emphasis is on the same lush fruit; the oak used is second- and third-use American barrels handed down through the Grange and Bin 389 programmes. Typically 10-15 yearsS5 1993U Lamb or beef casseroleX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Kalimna Bin 28 Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Penfolds Kalimna Bin 28 Shiraz Penfolds $16-20 Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 Penfolds F[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; a clean and fresh bouquet with black cherry, earth, spice and liquorice aromas is followed by a fresh, firm palate; cherry, spice and liquorice are all there, with crisp acid to close. Very much in the style of this block, unusual in the context of northeast Victoria. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; a clean and fresh bouquet with black cherry, earth, spice and liquorice aromas is followed by a fresh, firm palate; cherry, spice and liquorice are all there, with crisp acid to close. Very much in the style of this block, unusual in the context of northeast Victoria.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 PenfoldsP Curiously, the only wine made by Penfolds every vintage from Coonawarra grapes and sold in the Australian market (there are some export labels). No less curious has been the lacklustre performance (by Penfolds standards and given the reputation of Coonawarra) of the wine over the years. However, since 1986 the wine has taken a distinct turn for the better, which is as it should be. It is one of the few wines in the Penfolds range which is matured entirely in French oak, 20% new and 80% oneB and two years old. R 5-7 yearsS+ 1993U Veal; mild cheddarX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _"Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz Penfolds $16-20 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Penfolds Q[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is smooth and clean, with a mix of dark chocolate and berry fruit of medium to full intensity; oak in restraint. The palate is rich and full, with dark berry fruit and layers of texture and structure; subtle oak. 1995 was far from a poor vintage for Shiraz. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is smooth and clean, with a mix of dark chocolate and berry fruit of medium to full intensity; oak in restraint. The palate is rich and full, with dark berry fruit and layers of texture and structure; subtle oak. 1995 was far from a poor vintage for Shiraz.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium red-purple, not inspiring; the bouquet and the palate are both of light to medium intensity, with minty/earthy aromas and flavours. All in all, does show a lesser Coonawarra vintage. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-purple, not inspiring; the bouquet and the palate are both of light to medium intensity, with minty/earthy aromas and flavours. All in all, does show a lesser Coonawarra vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 PenfoldsP "First made in 1960, and promptly dubbed Poor Man s Grange . A blend of 50% to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% to 50% Shiraz from the Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Padthaway, McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek and the Clare Valley. Matured in a mixture of new (20%) and older American oak barrels. 20 years or moreS! 1993U Double lamb loin chopsX 14/7/98` CS SH Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _ Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz Penfolds $21-25 Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 Penfolds [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is rich, with berry, chocolate and some vanilla oak inputs. The palate has abundant flavour with chocolate and dark berry fruit flavours woven through with soft, lingering tannins. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is rich, with berry, chocolate and some vanilla oak inputs. The palate has abundant flavour with chocolate and dark berry fruit flavours woven through with soft, lingering tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 PenfoldsP A relatively recent introduction to the Penfolds range, first made in 1990 from a blend of McLaren Vale, Padthaway, Coonawarra, Barossa and Clare Valleys Cabernet Sauvignon. Matured in a mix of 30% new oak (American and French) and 70% hand-me-downs from Bin 707. Initially conceived as a lower-priced wine, the sheer quality of Bin 407 and its already illustrious show record led to its higher price when released. R 10+ yearsS 1994U Venison, kangaroo filletX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _#Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon Penfolds $21-25 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Penfolds ~[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium purple-red; the bouquet is clean and soft with red berry/cassis fruit supported by relatively restrained oak. The palate has good length and structure, with ripe cassis/berry fruit, a touch of mint, relatively soft tannins and well-integrated oak. No doubt strengthened by the decision not to make any Bin 707 or John Riddoch in 1995. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the bouquet is clean and soft with red berry/cassis fruit supported by relatively restrained oak. The palate has good length and structure, with ripe cassis/berry fruit, a touch of mint, relatively soft tannins and well-integrated oak. No doubt strengthened by the decision not to make any Bin 707 or John Riddoch in 1995.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 PenfoldsP @Made from a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, grown entirely on Penfolds 180-hectare vineyard in the Polish Hill River Valley, east of the main Clare Valley region. The wine is matured in new French oak for one year and invariably shows very well at a relatively early age. First made 1985. R 4-7 yearsS 1995U Yearling steak; mild cheeseX 14/7/98` MT CS CF MAa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Clare Estate Cabernet Blends Z Australia Penfolds Clare Estate Penfolds $21-25 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Penfolds [2.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite fragrant with a curious five-spice underlay. The palate opens up with lively leafy/minty characters, but closes with a somewhat astringent finish. It is remotely possible this was a slightly corked bottle. RATING: 74 @BM bold:XXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite fragrant with a curious five-spice underlay. The palate opens up with lively leafy/minty characters, but closes with a somewhat astringent finish. It is remotely possible this was a slightly corked bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">74 PenfoldsP Born of the vigorous rivalry between and radically different winemaking philosophies of Max Schubert and John Davoren. With the exception of emphasis on the highest-quality grape sources, Grange and St Henri are polar opposites. This traditional wine is made from Barossa, Clare and Eden Valleys, McLaren Vale, and Langhorne Creek Shiraz; and Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra and the Barossa Valley. Oak influence is minimal. R$Up to 20 years for the best vintagesS0 1992U Steak and kidney pieX 14/7/98` SH CSa Barossa Valleyb 1 Red 5 Full-bodied dry redf St Henri Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _!Penfolds St Henri Cabernet Shiraz Penfolds $26-50 Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 Penfolds [4.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium purple-red; the bouquet is quite powerful, with a mix of dark berry and more minty characters; the palate has that racy character of the 94 vintage, with blackberry, black cherry and mint fruit, and a long finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the bouquet is quite powerful, with a mix of dark berry and more minty characters; the palate has that racy character of the 94 vintage, with blackberry, black cherry and mint fruit, and a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 PenfoldsP Australia s greatest red wine, with a turbulent early history chronicled in Huon Hooke s book entitled Max Schubert: Winemaker (1994). What can be said in a few words? The bare bones are: first made 1955; sourced from low-yielding, old shiraz vines (and up to 15% Cabernet Sauvignon) chiefly from the Barossa but also from the Clare Valley and McLaren Vale. Fermentation finished in and matured in new American oak. The 1990 was rated the Number One Wine in the World by the all-powerfB*ul Wine Spectator in December 1995. Up to 40 yearsSI 1991U Rich game dishesX 14/7/98` SH CSa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Grange Shiraz Z Australia Penfolds Grange Penfolds Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 Penfolds :[5wine glasses] 1993 Medium to full red-purple; voluminous blackberry, liquorice, black cherry and chocolate fruit aromas completely integrated with sweet vanillin oak on the bouquet; has a texture and structure all of its own, not monolithic, yet meltingly smooth. Maintains the great tradition. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1993 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; voluminous blackberry, liquorice, black cherry and chocolate fruit aromas completely integrated with sweet vanillin oak on the bouquet; has a texture and structure all of its own, not monolithic, yet meltingly smooth. Maintains the great tradition.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 BannockburnP 3Gary Farr has made wine in France every year since 1983. While based at Domaine Dujac in Burgundy, he has closely watched the methods of Rh ne winemakers, including Alain Graillot of Crozes Hermitage (who himself worked at Dujac), and this wine is strongly, and very deliberately, Rh ne-influenced in style. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Rich game, strong cheeseX 14/7/98` Geelongb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Bannockburn Shiraz Bannockburn Vineyards $26-50 Geelong 14/7/98 Bannockburn Vineyards [5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a vibrant and lively bouquet with complex cherry-accented fruit and obvious carbonic maceration spice influences. There is more of the same on the palate, with complex cherry and spice flavours, bright acidity and subtle oak. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a vibrant and lively bouquet with complex cherry-accented fruit and obvious carbonic maceration spice influences. There is more of the same on the palate, with complex cherry and spice flavours, bright acidity and subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 BannockburnP Widely acknowledged as one of Australia s best Pinot Noirs, made in a very distinctive style with strong French influences from low-yielding vineyards at Geelong, near Melbourne. Winemaker Gary Farr begins making the Pinot Noir in the vineyard, but does not finish his work until the wine is bottled. Even then, a certain degree of patience is required to allow the wine to show its best. There will be no 98 Bannockburn Pinot Noir in the wake of the hail devastation at the start of the seasoB R 4-7 yearsS& 1993U Rare roast squabX 14/7/98` Geelong 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry redf Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Bannockburn Pinot Noir Bannockburn Vineyards $26-50 Geelong 14/7/98 Bannockburn Vineyards s[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red; an undeniably complex bouquet with a mix of briary/leafy/forest aromas attesting to the high percentage of whole bunches (and hence stalks) in the fermenter. The palate continues the wholly idiosyncratic style of Bannockburn with a potent mix of briary/foresty/gamey characters over the underlying plum and cherry fruit. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red; an undeniably complex bouquet with a mix of briary/leafy/forest aromas attesting to the high percentage of whole bunches (and hence stalks) in the fermenter. The palate continues the wholly idiosyncratic style of Bannockburn with a potent mix of briary/foresty/gamey characters over the underlying plum and cherry fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Bass PhillipP A wine which shows the limitation of any star or symbol rating system because, on the one hand, there is an undoubted quality differential between the standard, Reserve and Premium wines, yet on the other hand, one could not possibly rate this wine at less than the top rating. Indeed, because it is the most direct and least oak-influenced of the three wines, it is often more pleasurable to drink in its youth. 4-10 yearsS+ 1995U Slow-cooked Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` PNa Gippslandb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry redf Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Bass Phillip Pinot Noir Bass Phillip $26-50 r Gippsland t late note 14/7/98 Bass Phillip [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; the bouquet is redolent of sweet plummy fruit with the forest floor lying underneath. The palate shows a similar mix of ripe plummy fruit together with more earthy/foresty characters, and fully sufficient tannins for ageing. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the bouquet is redolent of sweet plummy fruit with the forest floor lying underneath. The palate shows a similar mix of ripe plummy fruit together with more earthy/foresty characters, and fully sufficient tannins for ageing.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 BethanyP A blend of around 60% Cabernet Sauvignon grown on the Mulberry Vineyard, 15% Cabernet Franc grown on the Homestead Block and 25% Merlot from the Munzberg Vineyard, aged for 12 to 15 months in a mix of new and used French and American oak. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Fillet of lambX 14/7/98` CS MTa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Bethany Cabernet Merlot Bethany Wines $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Bethany Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is ripe and smooth, with abundant vanillin American oak, the palate ultra-ripe with a mix of minty berry and vanilla flavours. Certainly shows its warm-grown origins. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is ripe and smooth, with abundant vanillin American oak, the palate ultra-ripe with a mix of minty berry and vanilla flavours. Certainly shows its warm-grown origins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Bowen EstateP 21.50 A wine which has given tremendous pleasure over the years, always crammed full of personality and flavour. Doug Bowen certainly prefers to allow the grapes to ripen fully, sometimes to frightening levels. The ripe style does not always turn me on, but the 94 and 95 did so in spades. R!10 years or more in good vintagesS 1995U Kangaroo filletX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Bowen Estate Shiraz Bowen Estate $21-25 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Bowen Estate 5[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a clean but surprisingly light bouquet with earthy berry varietal character, and a palate which runs through cherry, briary, leaf and mint flavours, but which utterly belies its 14 degrees alcohol and, for that matter, the reputation of the vintage. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean but surprisingly light bouquet with earthy berry varietal character, and a palate which runs through cherry, briary, leaf and mint flavours, but which utterly belies its 14 degrees alcohol and, for that matter, the reputation of the vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Bowen EstateP 22.95 As with the Shiraz, Doug Bowen believes in ripeness, the 92 weighing in with 15% alcohol. Whereas it can work with a Shiraz, I think it sits less happily with Cabernet Sauvignon, although I have to admit the 93 was a very attractive wine, the 94 even better. R 5-8 yearsS 1994U Richly sauced beef casseroleX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Bowen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Bowen Estate $21-25 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Bowen Estate s[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite attractive, with an array of soft earthy/chocolatey/mulberry fruit aromas with some vanillin oak in support. The palate, however, is more leafy and tough than the bouquet suggests; not up to the Shiraz of the same vintage, and a reflection of the difficult year for Cabernet in Coonawarra. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite attractive, with an array of soft earthy/chocolatey/mulberry fruit aromas with some vanillin oak in support. The palate, however, is more leafy and tough than the bouquet suggests; not up to the Shiraz of the same vintage, and a reflection of the difficult year for Cabernet in Coonawarra. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Brand s LairaP 16.95 A relatively recent arrival on the scene for Brand s, the style of which has improved greatly since McWilliam s became involved. These wines tend to develop very well.R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Pasta with salmonX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Brand s Laira Chardonnay Brand s Laira $16-20 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Brand s Laira ,[4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; attractive melon, peach and fig varietal fruit is supported by quality oak on the bouquet. Similarly, lively peachy melon fruit, with a slippery feel, is complexed by touches of nutmeg and clove (from oak) on the palate. Nice wine. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; attractive melon, peach and fig varietal fruit is supported by quality oak on the bouquet. Similarly, lively peachy melon fruit, with a slippery feel, is complexed by touches of nutmeg and clove (from oak) on the palate. Nice wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Brindabella HillsP 16.50Q Produced partly from the 0.3 hectares of estate plantings, supplemented by riesling purchased from the Ruker Vineyard at Murrumbateman. There is no doubt that the Canberra District is eminently suited to this variety.R Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Grilled fishX 14/7/98` SE SBa Canberra Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Brindabella Hills Riesling Brindabella Hills $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 Brindabella Hills [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft and toasty, though not particularly aromatic. The palate is of light to medium weight, predominantly toasty/honeyed, but with some herbal notes. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft and toasty, though not particularly aromatic. The palate is of light to medium weight, predominantly toasty/honeyed, but with some herbal notes.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 Brindabella HillsP The wine is produced from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, fermented and hand-plunged in open fermenters, basket pressed, and matured in French and American barriques for two years. The upcoming 96 promises to be even better than the Medium term 5-7 yearsS 1993U Roast lambX 14/7/98` CF CS MTa Canberra Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Brindabella Hills Cabernet Brindabella Hills $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 Brindabella Hills 1[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with sweet, dark berry fruit aromas of medium intensity, supported by sweet oak. The well-modulated palate shows cassis and leaf fruit, with touches of cedary/foresty characters; overall leaves a quite dry impression. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with sweet, dark berry fruit aromas of medium intensity, supported by sweet oak. The well-modulated palate shows cassis and leaf fruit, with touches of cedary/foresty characters; overall leaves a quite dry impression.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 BrokenwoodP 16.50 A wine much appreciated by the Sydney market, which ensures that each release sells out long before the next becomes available. It is made in traditional style: in other words, without the use of oak, and unforced by techniques such as skin contact. Most is drunk young as a crisp, quasi-Chablis style, but as tastings show, can develop into a Hunter classic. (Specially made Reserve releases are in the maturation pipeline.) 2-10 yearsS& 1996U Balmain bugsX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Brokenwood Semillon Brokenwood $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Brokenwood I[5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; spotlessly clean and smooth, and a great rendition of the variety on the bouquet. The palate is perfectly balanced, with fine, delicate lemony/grassy fruit, with enough character to make it thoroughly enjoyable now, but with the capacity to age and develop beautifully. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; spotlessly clean and smooth, and a great rendition of the variety on the bouquet. The palate is perfectly balanced, with fine, delicate lemony/grassy fruit, with enough character to make it thoroughly enjoyable now, but with the capacity to age and develop beautifully.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Brookland ValleyP A wine which has consistently impressed, gaining in power and concentration as the vines have matured. The wine is produced from 2 hectares of estate plantings, and is at the richer end of the Margaret River spectrum an area noted for producing Sauvignon Blanc with excellent varietal character. Winner of a gold medal at the 1994 Perth Sheraton Wine Awards, while the 95 was one of the stars at the 1996 Sydney International Wine Competition. R Drink nowS 1996U CalamariX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _ Brookland Valley Sauvignon Blanc Brookland Valley $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Brookland Valley [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fragrant, with a mix of gooseberry and tropical varietal fruit, the generously flavoured palate with attractively sweet gooseberry, passionfruit and tropical fruit flavours. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fragrant, with a mix of gooseberry and tropical varietal fruit, the generously flavoured palate with attractively sweet gooseberry, passionfruit and tropical fruit flavours.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Brown BrothersP 35.35 A Pinot Noir dominant (typically around 70%) blend with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier comprising the balance, produced entirely from grapes grown at Brown Brothers Whitlands Vineyard high in the King Valley. Complexity is gained by an extraordinarily broad harvest span extending from early February to late April. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation before being blended and tiraged, and spends three years on yeast lees prior to disgorgement. Invariably a distinguished wine. The yet toBi be released 1995 won the Thorp Trophy for Best Sparkling White Wine at the 1998 Royal Sydney Wine Show. R/Has the structure to last for a number of yearsS 1992U ShellfishX 14/7/98` PN CHa King Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) King Valley Pinot Chardonnay X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _+Brown Brothers King Valley Pinot Chardonnay Brown Brothers $26-50 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Brown Brothers N[4.5wine glasses] 1993 Medium yellow-green with excellent fine mousse. The bouquet is complex, with bready aromas of medium to full intensity. The wine has interesting flavour and structure, at once full yet delicate, with biscuity Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier flavours, finishing with a very dry but classic finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1993 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green with excellent fine mousse. The bouquet is complex, with bready aromas of medium to full intensity. The wine has interesting flavour and structure, at once full yet delicate, with biscuity Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier flavours, finishing with a very dry but classic finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Brown BrothersP 18.10 Traces its origins back to 1934, when the first incidence of botrytis in the riesling at Milawa was noticed by John Brown senior. The wine was made but incorporated into a fortified wine, for there was no market for the style at the time. The first commercial vintage, albeit on a tiny scale, was 1962, the first significant commercial vintage in 1970. But it can legitimately claim to be the first Australian botrytised Riesling commercially released, and the wine has gone from strength to stB rength, particularly with the 1990 s era decision to bottle and release the wine as a fresher, younger style. Recent vintages have been consistent gold medal, and not infrequently trophy, winning wines. Now-10+ yearsS 1992U Sticky date puddingX 14/7/98` King Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Noble Riesling (375 ml) Sweet Sweet Z Australia _&Brown Brothers Noble Riesling (375 ml) Brown Brothers $16-20 North-eastern Victoria t late note 14/7/98 Brown Brothers [5wine glasses] 1994 Glowing yellow-green; there are intense botrytis-driven fruit aromas of apricot, lime and peach, with apricot and lime predominating on the intense palate. The wine has excellent balance with a long finish aided by ideal acidity. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; there are intense botrytis-driven fruit aromas of apricot, lime and peach, with apricot and lime predominating on the intense palate. The wine has excellent balance with a long finish aided by ideal acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Burge FamilyP 16.80Q Produced from the estate-owned Draycott Vineyard (hence the name) which is hand-pruned and yields 2-3 tonnes per acre, depending on the vintage. A classic Barossa Shiraz in traditional style.R 10+ years 1995U)Wild duck, or failing that, domestic duckX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Draycott Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Burge Family Draycott Shiraz Burge Family Winemakers $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Burge Family Winemakers [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a solid bouquet with a mix of dark berry, chocolate, mint and earth aromas supported by subtle oak. Black cherry, mint and chocolate flavours run through a nicely balanced palate with good fruit composition. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a solid bouquet with a mix of dark berry, chocolate, mint and earth aromas supported by subtle oak. Black cherry, mint and chocolate flavours run through a nicely balanced palate with good fruit composition.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 =N CampbellsP 16.35 1An always interesting wine made from very ripe grapes, typically with alcohol levels of around 14%, and with a relatively high pH which gives the wine softness and roundness in the mouth. One hundred per cent estate-grown. Ranged alongside the Chardonnay as the premium table wine release from Campbells. R 2-4 yearsS! 1994U Rich game dishesX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Bobbie Burns Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz c Campbells $16-20 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 % Campbells [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; a powerful, intense bouquet with pronounced earthy/briary fruit is followed by a potent palate with black cherry and blackberry flavours; the 14.6 degrees alcohol in the wine comes at you in waves. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; a powerful, intense bouquet with pronounced earthy/briary fruit is followed by a potent palate with black cherry and blackberry flavours; the 14.6 degrees alcohol in the wine comes at you in waves. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Cape MentelleP First made in 1988, and immediately established itself as another classic. The 1990 vintage was selected for British Airways First Class; each succeeding year has reached new heights. These are wines of exceptional complexity, Chardonnays made by a red winemaker (but in the best possible way). The 1993 won the George Mackey Award for best wine exported from Australia in 1994; subsequent vintages have all been in the same class. R 3-5 yearsS! 1995U Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Cape Mentelle Chardonnay Cape Mentelle $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Cape Mentelle )[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a rich, full and complex bouquet with ripe, strongly figgy, fruit leads into an even more complex palate in which a range of tangy citrus and melon flavours, at once distinctively Margaret River yet vaguely Burgundian, come into play. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a rich, full and complex bouquet with ripe, strongly figgy, fruit leads into an even more complex palate in which a range of tangy citrus and melon flavours, at once distinctively Margaret River yet vaguely Burgundian, come into play. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Cape MentelleP 20.75 .A wine that has been part of the Cape Mentelle portfolio since 1985, but which in the early years was not particularly exciting. To what extent the Cloudy Bay skills rubbed off is a moot point, but the fact is that in more recent times this has been another faultless wine combining finesse with power. Not really necessaryS! 1996U Fish, Asian cuisineX 14/7/98` SE SBa Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _&Cape Mentelle Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Cape Mentelle $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Cape Mentelle _[5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a complex yet fruit-driven bouquet, with a mix of rich, ripe gooseberry and more lemony fruit supported by subliminal oak. There is masses of flavour on the palate, essentially sweet passionfruit and gooseberry, followed by a pleasantly dry finish which prevents the wine going over the top. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a complex yet fruit-driven bouquet, with a mix of rich, ripe gooseberry and more lemony fruit supported by subliminal oak. There is masses of flavour on the palate, essentially sweet passionfruit and gooseberry, followed by a pleasantly dry finish which prevents the wine going over the top.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Cape MentelleP gMade its debut in 1981, and over the intervening years has produced some spectacular wines which to my palate at least have not infrequently outclassed the Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines typically show wonderful spice, game and liquorice characters reminiscent of the Rh ne Valley. Since 1986 a small percentage of Grenache has been included in some years. 5-10 yearsS! 1995U Stir-fried Asian beefX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Cape Mentelle Shiraz Cape Mentelle $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Cape Mentelle E[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; a marvellously complex bouquet with an array of rich, dark plum and berry fruit with game and boot-polish undertones, quintessentially varietal. The palate, too, is multiflavoured and multilayered with plum, liquorice and berry fruit, supported by lingering tannins. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; a marvellously complex bouquet with an array of rich, dark plum and berry fruit with game and boot-polish undertones, quintessentially varietal. The palate, too, is multiflavoured and multilayered with plum, liquorice and berry fruit, supported by lingering tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Cape MentelleP Also made its first appearance in 1981, a direct reflection of David Hohnen s early winemaking experiences in California. Despite its exceptional quality, remains the only Zinfandel worth mentioning in Australia; it is most surprising that it has not encouraged others to try. Classic each-way betS! 1995U Rare char-grilled rump steakX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red N Zinfandel Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Cape Mentelle Zinfandel Cape Mentelle $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Cape Mentelle 6[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; an intense, riotously ripe, bouquet with dark glossy cherry fruit and spicy highlights. The palate has lots of extract and concentration, ranging through briary, berry, prune, plum and cherry; a slightly hot finish prevents absolute top points. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; an intense, riotously ripe, bouquet with dark glossy cherry fruit and spicy highlights. The palate has lots of extract and concentration, ranging through briary, berry, prune, plum and cherry; a slightly hot finish prevents absolute top points.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Cape MentelleP 43.20 ^The wine which started the Cape Mentelle juggernaut, with the 82 and 83 vintages winning the Jimmy Watson Trophy in successive years. Both style and quality wandered somewhat in the second half of the 1980s, but has steadied (and improved greatly) in the 1990s as David Hohnen has come to terms with the now fully mature vineyard (and it with him). R 10+ yearsS+ 1992U Loin of lambX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _ Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon Cape Mentelle $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Cape Mentelle 3[4.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with perfectly blended blackberry/cassis fruit and cedary oak. The palate provides more of the same, with a harmonious blend of cassis, blackberry and cedar, finishing with soft, lingering tannins. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with perfectly blended blackberry/cassis fruit and cedary oak. The palate provides more of the same, with a harmonious blend of cassis, blackberry and cedar, finishing with soft, lingering tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Chapel HillP YOne of the new wave of unwooded Chardonnays, and one of the better examples. Taking the oak out of Chardonnay is not a magic solution which, through some process of alchemy, produces a better wine. It simply produces a different, more direct style, and the fruit base has to be there. A blend of McLaren Vale, Padthaway and Barossa Valley fruit. Best to drink youngS 1996U Pasta, saladsX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Chapel Hill Unwooded Chardonnay Chapel Hill $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Chapel Hill [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; there is above average weight to the bouquet, the aromas running from pear to melon to citrus. The palate shows relatively straightforward fruit but is clean and fresh, and has quite good structure. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there is above average weight to the bouquet, the aromas running from pear to melon to citrus. The palate shows relatively straightforward fruit but is clean and fresh, and has quite good structure.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Charles MeltonP 29.90 rA label which is Australia s answer to California s Bonny Doon, where Randall Grahm is the genius pulling the strings. Charlie Melton is no slouch either, as this blend of low-yielding, dry-grown Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvedre handsomely shows. Melton realised the supreme quality of these vines well before most others, and the market has now caught up with his vision. Each way; now or in 5 yearsS! 1995U Full-blooded Italian cuisineX 14/7/98` SH GR MOa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Nine Popes Shiraz Blends Z Australia Charles Melton Nine Popes Charles Melton $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Charles Melton [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a dense and complex bouquet with a mix of chocolate, berry, mint and vanilla oak. There are similarly rich, mouthfilling chocolate, blackberry and mint flavours, with good tannin balance and well-judged oak. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a dense and complex bouquet with a mix of chocolate, berry, mint and vanilla oak. There are similarly rich, mouthfilling chocolate, blackberry and mint flavours, with good tannin balance and well-judged oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Charles MeltonP 13.90 5One of the most interesting Ros s currently made in Australia, produced from grenache, and presumably a partial by-product of Nine Popes juice run-off. It has much more fruit flavour than a standard Ros , at least being more a cross between a standard Ros and a Beaujolais style. Tremendous summer drinking. R Drink nowS 1995U Light Mediterranean dishesX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Of Virginia Z Australia Charles Melton Ros Of Virginia Charles Melton $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Charles Melton [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Bright crimson fuschia; spotlessly clean cherry-accented bouquet leads into a palate with abundant cherry fruit flavours; very good length and balance, and more weight than the Turkey Flat Ros of the same vintage. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright crimson fuschia; spotlessly clean cherry-accented bouquet leads into a palate with abundant cherry fruit flavours; very good length and balance, and more weight than the Turkey Flat Ros of the same vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Charles SturtP Charles Sturt University has only limited vineyards of its own, the primary function of which is for teaching and experimental purposes. It purchases fruit from various parts of Australia, often on an irregular basis, so that the Chardonnays come and go frustratingly at times. It would be nice to think that this wine becomes a regular part of the roster. The multi gold medal winning 94 vintage was one of the best Chardonnays ever to come from Cowra, and the 96 is not far behind. Short termS 1995U Prawns, creamy pastaX 14/7/98` Other Wineries of NSWb 2 White Oc)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Limited Release Cowra Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _.Charles Sturt Limited Release Cowra Chardonnay Charles Sturt University Winery $16-20 Cowra 14/7/98 Charles Sturt University Winery *[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; spicy oak is quite evident on the bouquet, though reasonably well integrated. There is excellent melon fruit in abundance on the palate, with the oak in harmonious support. Exceptional flavour and style for a wine in its price category. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; spicy oak is quite evident on the bouquet, though reasonably well integrated. There is excellent melon fruit in abundance on the palate, with the oak in harmonious support. Exceptional flavour and style for a wine in its price category.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Blue PyreneesP 28QuA blend of estate-grown Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, packaged in the very distinctive Blue Pyrenees label. R Medium termS 1994U Beef BordelaiseX 14/7/98` Pyreneesb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Estate Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Blue Pyrenees Estate Red Blue Pyrenees Estate $26-50 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Blue Pyrenees Estate V[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, with aromas of earth and mint supported by subtle oak. The palate is unexpectedly complex and rich, with ripe, lush damson plum and cherry fruit with hints of spice. Finishes with nice tannins; continues the renaissance begun with the 94. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, with aromas of earth and mint supported by subtle oak. The palate is unexpectedly complex and rich, with ripe, lush damson plum and cherry fruit with hints of spice. Finishes with nice tannins; continues the renaissance begun with the 94.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Chateau TahbilkP 11.95 The best known of Chateau Tahbilk s wines, with an illustrious history. Made in a very simple and direct fashion, in total contrast to neighbour Mitchelton, and in particular without the use of oak. Like young traditional Semillon, frequently needs time to come into its own. As a matter of interest, the 40 hectares of marsanne planted at Chateau Tahbilk is the largest single vineyard planting in the world. 1-20 yearsS: 1996U Lighter Italian or Asian dishesX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked)f Marsanne White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Chateau Tahbilk Marsanne Chateau Tahbilk $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Chateau Tahbilk .[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with classic faint honeysuckle aromas. The palate needs time to bring out its latent varietal character, but has plenty of fruit weight, and is almost certain to develop very well with age. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with classic faint honeysuckle aromas. The palate needs time to bring out its latent varietal character, but has plenty of fruit weight, and is almost certain to develop very well with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Chateau TahbilkP 16.95 cA rock of ages, deliberately made by Alister Purbrick in precisely the same way as the wines of 10, 20, 30 and 40 years ago. Normally there is tremendous colour, flavour and extract, with little or no oak influence. The only question about the better vintages is whether they need 5, 10 or 20 years in the cellar; the 94 and 95 wines have not impressed. R Long termSD Barbecued T-bone steakX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Chateau Tahbilk Shiraz Chateau Tahbilk $16-20 Central Goulburn Valley t late note 14/7/98 Chateau Tahbilk [2.5wine glasses] 1995 Surprisingly light colour; a very disappointing bouquet with distinct old oak/pongy/gluepaste aromas. The palate is marginally better, but this is a fairly ordinary wine. RATING: 74 @BM bold:XXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Surprisingly light colour; a very disappointing bouquet with distinct old oak/pongy/gluepaste aromas. The palate is marginally better, but this is a fairly ordinary wine. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">74 Chateau TahbilkP 16.95Q As with all of the Tahbilk wines, estate-grown, produced from a significant percentage of old vines. This is terroir speaking, the hand of the maker being deliberately withdrawn. As from 1995, 10% Cabernet Franc was incorporated in the wine.R Typically 15 or more yearsS0 1994U Strong mature cheddar, stiltonX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _"Chateau Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon Chateau Tahbilk $16-20 Central Goulburn Valley t late note 14/7/98 Chateau Tahbilk C[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium red, with just a touch of purple; sweet blackcurrant fruit and subtle oak aromas lead into a well-balanced and weighted wine on the palate with gentle cassis fruit and equally gentle cedary oak. Significantly better than the disappointing Shiraz of the same vintage. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red, with just a touch of purple; sweet blackcurrant fruit and subtle oak aromas lead into a well-balanced and weighted wine on the palate with gentle cassis fruit and equally gentle cedary oak. Significantly better than the disappointing Shiraz of the same vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 XanaduP 16.5Q A label with the startling innovative design found on most of the Xanadu wines. It is made from the trademark Margaret River blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc, packed ripe and fashioned without the use of oak. XR Drink nowS 1996U Ultimate seafood styleX 14/7/98` SE SBa Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) M Secession White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Xanadu Secession Xanadu Wines $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Xanadu Wines 1[3wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is crisp with some herbal fruit bite and, relatively early in its life, showing some SO2 which will no doubt dissipate. The palate seems to lack vinosity, and to have been fleshed out with an almost subliminal touch of residual sugar. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is crisp with some herbal fruit bite and, relatively early in its life, showing some SO2 which will no doubt dissipate. The palate seems to lack vinosity, and to have been fleshed out with an almost subliminal touch of residual sugar.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 XanaduP 24.50 eExtraordinary packaging has been a feature of the Xanadu wines in recent years, but the label of the 92 Cabernet Sauvignon is an absolutely outstanding piece of graphic design. The wine itself, released under both a standard and Reserve label, is in the typical Margaret River-style, edged with astringency and needing time. The Reserve can be outstanding. 5 yearsS! 1994U Strong, aged cheddarX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon Xanadu Wines $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Xanadu Wines /[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a fragrant bouquet with earthy varietal fruit woven through cedary oak heralds a beautifully made wine with most attractive fruit showing perfectly ripened cabernet flavours. The palate is long and fine, with excellent tannin and acid balance. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a fragrant bouquet with earthy varietal fruit woven through cedary oak heralds a beautifully made wine with most attractive fruit showing perfectly ripened cabernet flavours. The palate is long and fine, with excellent tannin and acid balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 [N ClevelandP bThe cool climate of the Macedon Ranges is clearly suited to pinot noir, but even this early-ripening variety has to be grown (and made) with skill to give the appropriate results. The progression in the quality and style of the Cleveland Pinot Noir shows that Keith Brien is mastering this most difficult grape, although the dictates of vintage continue. R Drink nowS 1993U Char-grilled fresh salmonX 14/7/98` Macedonb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Cleveland Pinot Noir c Cleveland $16-20 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 % Cleveland [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; fragrant, leafy/tobacco/stemmy/spicy aromas are followed by an unusual palate with citrus and five-spice flavours underlying the berry fruit. Unconventional, but far from unattractive. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; fragrant, leafy/tobacco/stemmy/spicy aromas are followed by an unusual palate with citrus and five-spice flavours underlying the berry fruit. Unconventional, but far from unattractive.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 ClonakillaP Now firmly established as Clonakilla s best wine, and indeed one of the best wines to come out of the Canberra District each year. Since 1994 the wine has been a blend of Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Viognier, with the Shiraz component typically accounting for between 80% and 85% of the blend. Interestingly, too, the grapes are not crushed, but are placed as whole bunches in open fermenters, foot-trodden, and the fermentation is completed in new and used French oak barriques. An each-way propositionS 1995U Jugged hareX 14/7/98` Canberra Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Clonakilla Shiraz Clonakilla $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 Clonakilla d[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Dark, dense red-purple; an extremely complex bouquet with spice, liquorice and distinct gamey overtones. An enormously powerful and complex wine on the palate, but tasted as a blended barrel sample, and before pre-bottling fining. The rating is approximate only; Tim Kirk thinks the wine may be one of the best yet. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Dark, dense red-purple; an extremely complex bouquet with spice, liquorice and distinct gamey overtones. An enormously powerful and complex wine on the palate, but tasted as a blended barrel sample, and before pre-bottling fining. The rating is approximate only; Tim Kirk thinks the wine may be one of the best yet.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 CorioleP One of McLaren Vale s most distinguished Shiraz wines, with a track record going back to the establishment of Coriole in 1967, based upon 1.3 hectares of vines then 60 years old. Those vines provided the core of fruit over the intervening decades until additional plantings came first into bearing and then into maturity, allowing the introduction of a Reserve Shiraz from 1989 using only those original plantings. The vines typically produce 4 to 4.5 tonnes of grapes, enough to make about 250B cases per year. 5-15 yearsS0 1994U Ragout of lambX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Lloyd Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Coriole Lloyd Reserve Shiraz Coriole $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Coriole $[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Dark red-purple; the bouquet is powerful and concentrated, with dark berry/foresty fruits and subtle oak; the palate shows the same dark cherry and regional bitter chocolate flavours, with quite pronounced tannins and high total extract. Bred to stay. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Dark red-purple; the bouquet is powerful and concentrated, with dark berry/foresty fruits and subtle oak; the palate shows the same dark cherry and regional bitter chocolate flavours, with quite pronounced tannins and high total extract. Bred to stay.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 CorioleP A very interesting wine which over the past few years has shown strong passionfruit/gooseberry aromas when young, presumably due at least in part to the use of aromatic yeast during fermentation, but is possibly also partly vineyard character. Whatever the answer, it produces wines that are striking and attractive in their youth. The wine is partially fermented in French oak, and spends three months on yeast lees. A change of name in 1997 saw the addition of 'Lalla Rookh' to the name, but B the wine remains unchanged. Short termS 1996U Salad, seafoodX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Lalla Rookh Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Coriole Lalla Rookh Semillon Coriole $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Coriole %[4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is quite fragrant and lemony, almost with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc character, and a hint of subtle oak. The palate again shows the clever use of a touch of spicy oak to support the lemony fruit; good flavour and balance. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is quite fragrant and lemony, almost with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc character, and a hint of subtle oak. The palate again shows the clever use of a touch of spicy oak to support the lemony fruit; good flavour and balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Crawford RiverP A wine of consistently good quality over the years, tight and reserved, and fully reflecting the very cool climate in which it is grown. It is 100% estate-grown (as are all of the Crawford River wines).R Up to 5 yearsS! 1996U AntipastoX 14/7/98` Far South West Victoriab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Crawford River Riesling Crawford River Wines $16-20 Far South Western Victoria 14/7/98 Crawford River Wines 3[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows extraordinarily intense passionfruit aromas; you can almost visualise the passionfruit pips in the juice. Similar flavours come through on the striking palate, which is however elegant, and with considerable structure. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows extraordinarily intense passionfruit aromas; you can almost visualise the passionfruit pips in the juice. Similar flavours come through on the striking palate, which is however elegant, and with considerable structure.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Crawford RiverP Grown at the extreme edge for Cabernet Sauvignon, and always presents a rather austere, minerally, European cast, but in most years redeems itself with the length of its finish, and the way the flavour builds-up with the second glass.R 5-8 yearsS 1992U Roast vealX 14/7/98` Far South West Victoriab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _!Crawford River Cabernet Sauvignon Crawford River Wines $16-20 Far South Western Victoria 14/7/98 Crawford River Wines [4wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; the bouquet ranges through leafy/cedar/earthy/briary notes, but then sweetens up with some more chocolatey characters. The palate is extremely long, with considerable briary/earthy grip. It has a character peculiar to the 1994 vintage running across Coonawarra/Padthaway and into southern Victoria, a certain austerity yet strength. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet ranges through leafy/cedar/earthy/briary notes, but then sweetens up with some more chocolatey characters. The palate is extremely long, with considerable briary/earthy grip. It has a character peculiar to the 1994 vintage running across Coonawarra/Padthaway and into southern Victoria, a certain austerity yet strength.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 ArenbergP Produced from vines dating back as far as 1890 but harvested over a long period to achieve differing flavour and sugar levels to add complexity. Made traditionally in open fermenters, basket-pressed, and aged in a mix of French and American barriques and hogsheads for one year, all of which have been previously used, and which are not intended to impart excessive oak flavour. The adddition of the word 'Footbolt' on the front label has given rise to a world record back label, best read withBk a microscope and a spellcheck, the latter to tell you that the 'absinent' Joe Osborn was really abstinent. Up to 15 yearsS! 1994U!Smoked lamb with redcurrant sauceX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red The Footbolt Old Vine Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Arenberg The Footbolt Old Vine Shiraz Arenberg $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Arenberg 6[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a clean bouquet, with a mix of berry, earth and liquorice fruit together with just a touch of chocolate and subtle oak is followed logically by the palate, with sweet fruit and oak, earth and liquorice flavours, finishing with moderate tannins. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a clean bouquet, with a mix of berry, earth and liquorice fruit together with just a touch of chocolate and subtle oak is followed logically by the palate, with sweet fruit and oak, earth and liquorice flavours, finishing with moderate tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 ArenbergP A classic wine style with an illustrious show record and, as the classic wine entry indicates, dating back to 1961. Made from roughly equal proportions of low-yielding, old vine Shiraz and Grenache, held in a mix of large and small oak (principally old) for ten months prior to bottling. Quite deliberately made in a slightly old-fashioned style, fruit, rather than oak, driven, but none the worse for that. 20 years or moreS! 1995U Jugged hareX 14/7/98` SH GRa McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf s Original Shiraz Grenache Shiraz Blends Z Australia Arenberg d s Original Shiraz Grenache Arenberg $16-20 17.01 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Arenberg X[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Strong purple-red; a rich and complex array of aromas ranging through liquorice, chocolate, game and mint lead into a wonderfully accessible and textured palate with sweet berryish fruit, hints of liquorice and game, finishing with soft tannins. The initial confection trap characters have disappeared. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Strong purple-red; a rich and complex array of aromas ranging through liquorice, chocolate, game and mint lead into a wonderfully accessible and textured palate with sweet berryish fruit, hints of liquorice and game, finishing with soft tannins. The initial confection trap characters have disappeared.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 jN DalrympleP 16QrProduced from 4.8 hectares of estate plantings, and a wine which always stands out amongst its Tasmanian fellows. R Long-lived - 5-7 yearsS 1994U Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Northern Tasmaniab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Dalrymple Chardonnay c Dalrymple $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 % Dalrymple z[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; both the bouquet and palate are highly aromatic and flavoursome, but show strong citrussy characters which, on mainland Australia, would be akin to a Riesling Chardonnay blend. In fact it is the vineyard and climate speaking to produce a bright, crisp, herbaceous-style, finishing with unmistakable acidity. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; both the bouquet and palate are highly aromatic and flavoursome, but show strong citrussy characters which, on mainland Australia, would be akin to a Riesling Chardonnay blend. In fact it is the vineyard and climate speaking to produce a bright, crisp, herbaceous-style, finishing with unmistakable acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 DalwhinnieP ,Produced from a little under 4 hectares of low-yielding, unirrigated estate-grown vines, with an ancestry going back to the clone introduced in the nineteenth century and discovered at Mudgee in the late 1960s. Barrel fermentation adds to the richness to produce an invariably extremely complex wine. Develops early but will holdS! 1994U TurkeyX 14/7/98` Pyreneesb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Dalwhinnie Chardonnay Dalwhinnie $21-25 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Dalwhinnie ?[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a quite complex yet nicely restrained bouquet with melon and grapefruit aromas supported by subtle oak; a long, intense and well-structured palate with melon and grapefruit flavours, finishing with good acidity. Has come together exceptionally well. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a quite complex yet nicely restrained bouquet with melon and grapefruit aromas supported by subtle oak; a long, intense and well-structured palate with melon and grapefruit flavours, finishing with good acidity. Has come together exceptionally well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 DalwhinnieP Predominantly cabernet sauvignon, but with a small percentage of estate-grown Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Every bit as powerful and concentrated as the Shiraz, and likewise needing many years in bottle.R Up to 20 yearsS 1993, 1994U Rare char-grilled rump steakX 14/7/98` Pyreneesb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M Moonambel Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Dalwhinnie Moonambel Cabernet Dalwhinnie $26-50 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Dalwhinnie [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; the bouquet is bright and fresh, with red berry fruit aromas, but the palate seems undermade and unformed, angular and - at this juncture at least - somewhat acidic. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the bouquet is bright and fresh, with red berry fruit aromas, but the palate seems undermade and unformed, angular and - at this juncture at least - somewhat acidic.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 DalwhinnieP An exceptionally concentrated and powerful wine, fully reflecting the low yields and the influence of the quartz, clay and gravel soils. These are not wines for the faint-hearted, positively demanding long cellaring, but having the balance to repay patience. Up to 20 yearsS! 1994U Potent cheeses, strong red meatsX 14/7/98` Pyreneesb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M Moonambel Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Dalwhinnie Moonambel Shiraz Dalwhinnie $26-50 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Dalwhinnie 8[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with cherry/berry fruit of medium to full intensity, although not especially complex. On the palate powerful cherry, berry and mint fruit flavours are followed by tannins which build on the mid to back palate. Subtle oak throughout. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with cherry/berry fruit of medium to full intensity, although not especially complex. On the palate powerful cherry, berry and mint fruit flavours are followed by tannins which build on the mid to back palate. Subtle oak throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 De BortoliP Made from both estate-grown grapes and grapes purchased from other Yarra Valley vineyards. Usually in a full-bodied style, albeit with restrained oak from partial barrel fermentation. Richly repays cellaring.R 3-6 yearsS YabbiesX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Yarra Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"De Bortoli Yarra Valley Chardonnay De Bortoli (Victoria) $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 De Bortoli (Victoria) F[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; an extremely stylish yet typical young Yarra bouquet with fine melon, citrus and cashew fruit. The palate is very tight, intense and complex, with tangy citrus/melon fruit, good acid and subtle oak. A brilliant outcome for what was a better red than white vintage. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; an extremely stylish yet typical young Yarra bouquet with fine melon, citrus and cashew fruit. The palate is very tight, intense and complex, with tangy citrus/melon fruit, good acid and subtle oak. A brilliant outcome for what was a better red than white vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 De BortoliP ^There are surprisingly few Yarra Valley varietal Shirazs on the market, and the fruit flavours vary significantly from one maker to the next, ranging from strong spice and pepper through to more minty aromas and flavours. The De Bortoli wine is usually in the latter spectrum, but hit the jackpot with the stunning 93 and an equally outstanding R 3-7 yearsS 1994U Grilled calf s liverX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Yarra Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia De Bortoli Yarra Valley Shiraz De Bortoli (Victoria) $26-50 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 De Bortoli (Victoria) [3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a clean and smooth bouquet of medium intensity leads on to a pleasantly flavoured palate with good structure, subtle oak and fine tannins. It is just that the wine lacks the spice and excitement of the better vintages. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean and smooth bouquet of medium intensity leads on to a pleasantly flavoured palate with good structure, subtle oak and fine tannins. It is just that the wine lacks the spice and excitement of the better vintages.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 De BortoliP Like the Shiraz, made from both estate-grown and purchased grapes. A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (a Cabernet Merlot is also marketed) made using what might be described as traditional French techniques, and matured in a mix of new and used French barriques for 18 months before bottling. Can be outstanding; the 1995 vintage has won five trophies and six gold medals in various Victorian wine shows. 5 - 8 yearsS 1994U Beef casseroleX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _*De Bortoli Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon De Bortoli (Victoria) $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 De Bortoli (Victoria) q[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; there is an attractive spicy/nutmeg/earthy edge to sweet dark berry fruit on the bouquet. Neither the bouquet nor the palate show any green herbaceous characters whatsoever, but the cool-grown origins come through in the blackcurrant and mint-flavoured palate. Supported by well-handed oak throughout. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; there is an attractive spicy/nutmeg/earthy edge to sweet dark berry fruit on the bouquet. Neither the bouquet nor the palate show any green herbaceous characters whatsoever, but the cool-grown origins come through in the blackcurrant and mint-flavoured palate. Supported by well-handed oak throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 De BortoliP &Made primarily from riesling grown in the Strathbogie Ranges and the Yarra Valley, often with a small percentage of Yarra Valley Gewurztraminer included. First made in 1989, the wine has garnered a constant stream of gold medals in national wine shows from that time, with the 97 no exception. R 1-4 yearsS 1995U Fresh asparagusX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Windy Peak Riesling White Riesling Z Australia De Bortoli Windy Peak Riesling De Bortoli (Victoria) $11-15 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 De Bortoli (Victoria) [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a highly aromatic bouquet with lime tropical aromas. The palate is beautifully modulated and fine, with lime and passionfruit followed by a crisp, dry finish. Outstanding winemaking. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a highly aromatic bouquet with lime tropical aromas. The palate is beautifully modulated and fine, with lime and passionfruit followed by a crisp, dry finish. Outstanding winemaking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 De BortoliP Sourced from vineyards in Victoria, but always containing a significant proportion of southern Victorian material, including the Yarra Valley. Over the years has consistently out-performed far more expensive wines in wine shows, and has always represented exceptionally good value for money. Some barrel ferment and lees contact, together with the very clever use of American oak, are all contributors. Smart new packaging introduced for the 1997 vintage does the wine justice, making it appearB far above its class. Basically drink nowS 1996U SashimiX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 White uc)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Windy Peak Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ De Bortoli Windy Peak Chardonnay De Bortoli (Victoria) $11-15 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 De Bortoli (Victoria) ,[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; sophisticated, spicy oak handling is the first impression on a complex bouquet, with citrus-tinged fruit coming along thereafter. The palate is certainly driven by oak, but skilfully so, with a texture, feel and flavour way above its price. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; sophisticated, spicy oak handling is the first impression on a complex bouquet, with citrus-tinged fruit coming along thereafter. The palate is certainly driven by oak, but skilfully so, with a texture, feel and flavour way above its price.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 DelatiteP HDelatite has been a leader in the move to the correct labelling of Rhine Riesling as Riesling but has also swept all before it in recent years. The 92 won a gold medal at the National Wine Show in 1993, while the 93 was named as Wine of the Year in the 1994-95 edition of the Good Wine Guide, by Huon Hooke and Mark Shield. Now-5 yearsS 1995U Grilled fishX 14/7/98` Central Victorian High Countryb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Delatite Riesling Delatite $16-20 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Delatite )[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; an intensely floral and striking bouquet with spice and Germanic lime pastille aromas is followed by an equally lively, intense and pungent wine on the palate, with pronounced acidity and an almost peppery prickle on the finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; an intensely floral and striking bouquet with spice and Germanic lime pastille aromas is followed by an equally lively, intense and pungent wine on the palate, with pronounced acidity and an almost peppery prickle on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 DelatiteP The 2 hectares of estate plantings produce a wine in mainstream Delatite-style, far lighter than the usual run of Chardonnays, even from cool climate regions. But as the 92 vintage showed, can produce a very attractive Chablis-style. Produced in both an unoaked- and wooded style. R 2-4 yearsS 1994U CrabX 14/7/98` Central Victorian High Countryb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Delatite Chardonnay Delatite $21-25 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Delatite 7[3wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; there are some bottle-developed aromas already evident, with melon and fig fruit supported by spicy oak. On the palate, however, the oak seems somewhat rough-sawn and interferes significantly with the mouthfeel of an otherwise attractive wine. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; there are some bottle-developed aromas already evident, with melon and fig fruit supported by spicy oak. On the palate, however, the oak seems somewhat rough-sawn and interferes significantly with the mouthfeel of an otherwise attractive wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 DelatiteP GA wine that has attracted much favourable comment over the years, particularly from United Kingdom writers. It is exceptionally delicate, with very low phenolic levels, and at times seems to me to be just that little bit too delicate. On the other hand, the style is infinitely better than the heavy, oily versions of Traminer. R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Delicate Chinese dishesX 14/7/98` Central Victorian High Countryb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Dead Man s Hill rztraminer White Traminer Z Australia _'Delatite Dead Man s Hill Gew rztraminer Delatite $16-20 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Delatite k[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a typically fine and delicate bouquet which, however, has very precise varietal definition, showing spice, rose petal and lime aromas. The palate delivers more of the same on a long, lingering finish punctuated by lime, spice and rose petal flavours. The acid is undeniably brisk but I like it. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a typically fine and delicate bouquet which, however, has very precise varietal definition, showing spice, rose petal and lime aromas. The palate delivers more of the same on a long, lingering finish punctuated by lime, spice and rose petal flavours. The acid is undeniably brisk but I like it.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Diamond ValleyP 39.50 `Deserves its recognition as one of the greatest of the Yarra Valley Pinot Noirs, invariably generously flavoured, and invariably showing strong varietal character, often in a ripe mould. A prolific trophy winner over the years, and never misses the mark. The secret lies in large part in the estate vineyard, with meticulous viticulture and low yields. R 2-4 yearsS! 1993U Wild duckX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Estate Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _ Diamond Valley Estate Pinot Noir Diamond Valley Vineyards $26-50 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 Diamond Valley Vineyards .[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the tangy, sappy plum and strawberry aromas are of varietal Pinot Noir at its best, supported by just a hint of oak. The intense and complex dark plum fruit of the palate has a high-class underlay of spice and forest; long, harmonious and rich. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the tangy, sappy plum and strawberry aromas are of varietal Pinot Noir at its best, supported by just a hint of oak. The intense and complex dark plum fruit of the palate has a high-class underlay of spice and forest; long, harmonious and rich.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Domaine ChandonP Typically a blend of 48% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir and 2% Pinot Meunier, sourced from the cooler parts of Australia including Victoria, Coonawarra, Tasmania and the Great Southern Region. Up to 50 individual components are used in the blend to produce a wine of exceptional style and complexity. Dosage 6.5 grams per litre. The introduction of a greater component of wine taken through malolactic fermentation has added both creaminess and a certain delicacy to the palate; despite the unfashiBVonable vintage, the 95 is assuredly going to prove the best yet from Domaine Chandon. Not requiredS! 1994U Ideal aperitifX 14/7/98` PN CHa Yarra Valleyb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparklingf X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Domaine Chandon Brut Domaine Chandon $26-50 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 Domaine Chandon [5wine glasses] 1995 Distinct straw tinges, typical of Domaine Chandon Brut at the point of its first disgorgement. The bouquet is crisp, clean and youthful, with attractive mineral and apple aromas. The palate is citrus-tinged, with touches of cinnamon spice, and has an almost fairy-like delicacy. Great finish; one of the best young Bruts to so far come from Domaine Chandon. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Distinct straw tinges, typical of Domaine Chandon Brut at the point of its first disgorgement. The bouquet is crisp, clean and youthful, with attractive mineral and apple aromas. The palate is citrus-tinged, with touches of cinnamon spice, and has an almost fairy-like delicacy. Great finish; one of the best young Bruts to so far come from Domaine Chandon.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Domaine ChandonP NMade entirely from Chardonnay sourced from all over Australia, with a significant contribution from Coonawarra and the Yarra Valley. Usually released between four and five years after vintage, and invariably shows just why French Champagne makers regard Chardonnay as particularly long-lived. The 93 is the best yet under this label. Not requiredS 1992U Aperitif, shellfishX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparklingf Blanc De Blancs X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Domaine Chandon Blanc De Blancs Domaine Chandon $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Domaine Chandon 5[5wine glasses] 1993 Bright yellow-green; the spotlessly clean bouquet has wonderfully attractive creamy/toasty autolysis characters yet retains tightness, with hints of citrus. The palate is delicate yet flavoursome, with a fine, gently creamy texture and flavours of citrus and ripe pear. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1993 <f"Bembo">Bright yellow-green; the spotlessly clean bouquet has wonderfully attractive creamy/toasty autolysis characters yet retains tightness, with hints of citrus. The palate is delicate yet flavoursome, with a fine, gently creamy texture and flavours of citrus and ripe pear. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Domaine ChandonP The converse of the Blanc de Blancs, made entirely from Pinot Noir; like the Blanc de Blancs, held on lees for over three years before disgorgement. Sourced from numerous southern Australian vineyards, notably the Yarra Valley and Tasmania.R 1991U Hors d oeuvresX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparklingf Blanc De Noirs X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Domaine Chandon Blanc De Noirs Domaine Chandon $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Domaine Chandon +[4.5wine glasses] 1992 Pale straw; the bouquet is stall extraordinarily discreet, tight and full, with scents of spice, earth and forest berries. A structured wine in the mouth, with a grain to its texture, showing bread, biscuit and mineral flavours, finishing with brisk acidity. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1992 <f"Bembo">Pale straw; the bouquet is stall extraordinarily discreet, tight and full, with scents of spice, earth and forest berries. A structured wine in the mouth, with a grain to its texture, showing bread, biscuit and mineral flavours, finishing with brisk acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Doonkuna EstateP The best of the two white Doonkuna wines, and usually the best Chardonnay made in the Canberra district, though sometimes shaded by Lark Hill. Invariably well made, with skilled use of barrel fermentation. Bounced back to top form in 1995.R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Snowy Mountains troutX 14/7/98` Canberra Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Doonkuna Estate Chardonnay Doonkuna Estate $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 Doonkuna Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a subtle, attractively understated bouquet with tangy barrel-ferment characters is followed by a fuller palate with soft, ripe fig, melon and cashew flavours. Minimal oak; a slightly spongy finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a subtle, attractively understated bouquet with tangy barrel-ferment characters is followed by a fuller palate with soft, ripe fig, melon and cashew flavours. Minimal oak; a slightly spongy finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 To my palate, one of the better of the five Italian-style releases under the striking label. It is made from barbera grown by Arnie Pizzini in the King Valley.R 1-3 yearsS 1995U Osso bucoX 14/7/98` CS NEa Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Garry Crittenden i Barbera Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Garry Crittenden i Barbera Dromana Estate $16-20 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Dromana Estate 4[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is strongly varietal, with those typically earthy/minerally notes giving a slightly hard edge. The palate has both extract and concentration, with earthy, brooding dark fruit flavours. A well-made wine with excellent varietal character. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is strongly varietal, with those typically earthy/minerally notes giving a slightly hard edge. The palate has both extract and concentration, with earthy, brooding dark fruit flavours. A well-made wine with excellent varietal character.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Evans FamilyP 22.50 kProduced from the 4 hectares of estate plantings which surround Len and Trish Evans marvellous Hunter Valley home. The vines are low-yielding, and the flavour of the wine is always concentrated, and in mainstream Hunter Valley-style. It is barrel-fermented and matured in new French oak. In 1996 the name of the vineyard block Pinchem was added to the label. R 3-5 yearsS& 1995U Leek and onion tartX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Pinchem Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Evans Family Pinchem Chardonnay Evans Family $21-25 Lower Hunter Valley t late note 14/7/98 Evans Family [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, opulently precocious bouquet with peach, toast and butter is followed by a palate with an array of tropical through to tangy fruit flavours and opulent spicy oak. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, opulently precocious bouquet with peach, toast and butter is followed by a palate with an array of tropical through to tangy fruit flavours and opulent spicy oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Evans & TateP Has its own light but intensely flavoured style, away from the Margaret River mainstream. Has had conspicuous show success over the years.R Now or up to 5 yearsS 1996U Marron, yabbiesX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Margaret River Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _$Evans & Tate Margaret River Semillon Evans & Tate $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Evans & Tate 8[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is powerful with herbaceous semillon neatly woven through with a hint of spicy oak. The palate delivers more of the same with quite potent semillon fruit and distinct seasoning of spicy/charry oak adding flavour for early drinking. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is powerful with herbaceous semillon neatly woven through with a hint of spicy oak. The palate delivers more of the same with quite potent semillon fruit and distinct seasoning of spicy/charry oak adding flavour for early drinking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Evans & TateP As the name indicates, the wine has a mixed regional source, although not strictly from two vineyards: while its base is from estate vineyards at Perth and Margaret River, it also extends to grapes sourced from other southwest regions, including Pemberton. Part of the wine is barrel-fermented in French and American oak, and kept on yeast lees for eight months before being bottled. Up to 4 yearsS 1996U Sugar-cured tunaX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Two Vineyards Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _%Evans & Tate Two Vineyards Chardonnay Evans & Tate $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Evans & Tate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, with gentle peach and melon fruit, and minimal oak. The light to medium weight palate has the same flavour profile; pleasant but unremarkable. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, with gentle peach and melon fruit, and minimal oak. The light to medium weight palate has the same flavour profile; pleasant but unremarkable. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Evans & TateP A 100% estate-grown wine from the Redbrook Vineyard (using the Hermitage name until 1992, but of course made from shiraz). The Margaret River region has not done a great deal with Shiraz overall, preferring to concentrate on other varieties, but this wine shows the potential that the region has for this variety. Matured in a French oak for a quite miraculous two years, given that the wine was bottled and packaged by January 1998. 7 yearsS& 1994U Strong red meat dishesX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Margaret River Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _"Evans & Tate Margaret River Shiraz Evans & Tate $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Evans & Tate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Strong, deep red-purple; the bouquet is rich, ripe and dense with black cherry fruit and a touch of sweet oak. The palate is intense, with black cherry, chocolate and hints of sweet, cedary oak. Well-balanced tannins. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong, deep red-purple; the bouquet is rich, ripe and dense with black cherry fruit and a touch of sweet oak. The palate is intense, with black cherry, chocolate and hints of sweet, cedary oak. Well-balanced tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Evans & TateP TSometimes produced from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, but in some vintages with a little Merlot blended in, produced from Evans & Tate s Redbrook Vineyard in the Margaret River. Whether coincidence or not, the arrival of Brian Fletcher lifted this wine into another class and dimension. The wine is matured in French oak barriques for 22 months. 8 yearsS 1994U"Braised ox cheek in red wine sauceX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _.Evans & Tate Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Evans & Tate $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Evans & Tate [4wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; the bouquet is powerful, with strong, ripe cassis and mint fruit. The fruit-driven palate has abundant red berry, mint and blackberry fruit, with slightly savoury, green undertones. Subtle oak. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet is powerful, with strong, ripe cassis and mint fruit. The fruit-driven palate has abundant red berry, mint and blackberry fruit, with slightly savoury, green undertones. Subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 N FergussonP 28.50Q Named after Peter and Louise Fergusson s son Jeremy, and made from estate-grown grapes. The 93 vintage was a knockout: when the subject of Yarra Valley Shiraz comes up, Fergusson is more often than not forgotten. It should not be.R Up to 10 yearsS 1994U Osso bucoX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Jeremy Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Fergusson Jeremy Shiraz c Fergusson $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 % Fergusson [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fragrant but relatively light, with leafy, spicy cool grown characters, which are repeated on the palate, ranging through spicy, leafy, tobacco, forest and cedar flavours. Slightly bitter finish. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fragrant but relatively light, with leafy, spicy cool grown characters, which are repeated on the palate, ranging through spicy, leafy, tobacco, forest and cedar flavours. Slightly bitter finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 N FergussonP 28.50 Confusingly, Victoria Chardonnay does not indicate an appellation in other words, that the wine comes from various regions within Victoria but is named after the Fergussons daughter, and is made from estate-grown grapes. R Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Seafood saladX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Victoria Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Fergusson Victoria Chardonnay c Fergusson $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 % Fergusson 5[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is quite developed, with rich, honeyed, toasty overtones to buttery/peachy fruit. The palate is round and ripe, with plenty of mouthfeel, showing the rich buttery/peachy and slightly charry oak characters promised by the bouquet. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is quite developed, with rich, honeyed, toasty overtones to buttery/peachy fruit. The palate is round and ripe, with plenty of mouthfeel, showing the rich buttery/peachy and slightly charry oak characters promised by the bouquet.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Frankland EstateP 19.75 Usually the best of the Frankland Estate wines. Its consistency has shone through notwithstanding that between 1992 and 1995 was made by different winemakers at different wineries. As always, meticulous viticulture is the key, with viticultural consultancy advice from Dr Richard Smart. Now to 6 yearsS 1996U AntipastoX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Frankland Estate Riesling Frankland Estate $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Frankland Estate #[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is floral, with a mix of passionfruit, herb and flower blossom, promising a little more than the palate is presently willing to reveal. Light, crisp, with mineral and toast flavours, it needs time to develop. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is floral, with a mix of passionfruit, herb and flower blossom, promising a little more than the palate is presently willing to reveal. Light, crisp, with mineral and toast flavours, it needs time to develop.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Frankland EstateP 21.40Q First made in 1991, Isolation Ridge has moved from being predominantly made from Shiraz to 100% Shiraz, entirely estate-grown. It is normally the richest and strongest of the Frankland Estate reds. Up to 10 yearsS 1994U Braised lamb shanksX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Isolation Ridge Shiraz Z Australia _ Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Frankland Estate $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 Frankland Estate ^[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with cherry, earth and cedar aromas, but also a hint of some old and not especially distinguished barrels. The palate is rather better, with elegant cedar, earth and dark flavours, finishing with fine tannins. Seems to need a touch of new oak to lift it. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with cherry, earth and cedar aromas, but also a hint of some old and not especially distinguished barrels. The palate is rather better, with elegant cedar, earth and dark flavours, finishing with fine tannins. Seems to need a touch of new oak to lift it.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Frankland EstateP 29.50 eNamed in honour of Dr Harold Olmo, the viticulturist to point to the potential of the Frankland River as far back as 1955. Now in his 80s, Dr Olmo lives in retirement in California, and it is fitting that his contribution to viticulture should be so remembered. The wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, all estate-grown. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Veal chopsX 14/7/98` CF MT MA CSa Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red s Reward Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Frankland Estate Olmo s Reward Frankland Estate $26-50 Great Southern 14/7/98 Frankland Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is discreet, with earthy/briary notes and subtle oak, the palate in a similar, rather lean style with earthy/briary flavours, and moderately weighted tannins. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is discreet, with earthy/briary notes and subtle oak, the palate in a similar, rather lean style with earthy/briary flavours, and moderately weighted tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 GalahP Although the label makes no mention of it, Stephen George is consultant winemaker at Wendouree, and it is well known that he has first option on any small parcels not required by Wendouree for its own label. All the hallmarks of having come from that marvellous source. 10-15 yearsS 1993U Venison, kangarooX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Clare Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Galah Clare Valley Shiraz Galah Wine $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Galah Wine [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium purple-red; a firm, clean bouquet with dark cherry and faintly earthy varietal fruit; subtle oak. The palate is powerful but contained, with strong tannin structure around black cherry and plum fruit. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; a firm, clean bouquet with dark cherry and faintly earthy varietal fruit; subtle oak. The palate is powerful but contained, with strong tannin structure around black cherry and plum fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Gembrook HillP GThe wine for which Gembrook Hill first came into prominence, and suited (in terms of wine style) both to the site and climate. It has proved to be a very difficult variety to grow, or at least to crop well, with a tiny production from the 2 hectares of vines. Devotees of the style are pleased that Dr Ian Marks has persevered. R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Lobster bisqueX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Gembrook Hill Sauvignon Blanc Gembrook Hill $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Gembrook Hill [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is light and clean, with a mix of gooseberry and herbal aromas, the palate similarly crisp and clean, with tangy lemony/herb and pear flavours. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is light and clean, with a mix of gooseberry and herbal aromas, the palate similarly crisp and clean, with tangy lemony/herb and pear flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 GiacondaP Four hundred and fifty cases of handcrafted wines are produced from a little under 1 hectare of estate vineyard every year. The style of the wine is entirely different from mainstream Australian Chardonnay, relying far more on texture and structure, and far less on primary fruit. An exceptionally distinguished and consistent wine which is the very deliberate product of Rick Kinzbrunner s winemaking philosophy. Made using wild yeasts, and bottled unfiltered. R 4-7 yearsS& 1995U Slow-roasted Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Ovens Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Giaconda Chardonnay Giaconda $26-50 King Valley/High Country t late note 14/7/98 Giaconda F[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a very complex bouquet with an array of toasty nutty bacony aromas to accompany the melon fruit is followed by a no less powerful and complex palate. Very Burgundian in feel and texture, it is already weighty by the normally reserved standards of Giaconda. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a very complex bouquet with an array of toasty nutty bacony aromas to accompany the melon fruit is followed by a no less powerful and complex palate. Very Burgundian in feel and texture, it is already weighty by the normally reserved standards of Giaconda.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 GiacondaP As fastidiously produced and as full of character as the Chardonnay. It comes from a little over half a hectare of estate plantings, and is made in tiny quantities. The style has been quite different from the Pinot Noirs of southern Victoria, being much fuller and more robust, with the obvious potential to age well. In recent vintages, the style and flavour has veered more towards Burgundy, and become better and better. R 4-6 yearsS& 1995U Tea-smoked duckX 14/7/98` Ovens Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Giaconda Pinot Noir Giaconda $26-50 King Valley/High Country t late note 14/7/98 Giaconda ^[5wine glasses] 1996 Light red, giving no hint of the outstanding character and flavour of the wine. The bouquet is striking, with fragrant sappy, spicy aromas; the palate is extraordinarily long, with silky slippery sappy foresty flavours rippling on and on. Superb with tea-smoked duck, each mouthful better than the previous one. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light red, giving no hint of the outstanding character and flavour of the wine. The bouquet is striking, with fragrant sappy, spicy aromas; the palate is extraordinarily long, with silky slippery sappy foresty flavours rippling on and on. Superb with tea-smoked duck, each mouthful better than the previous one.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 GilbertP As with so many of the small Mount Barker wineries, dependent on contract-winemaking, and the part-time viticultural occupation for owners Beverly and Jim Gilbert. The 92 Riesling was a particularly good wine which aged superbly; the 95, given an 82 point rating when tasted early in its life but with the comment should develop well had in fact developed magnificently by late 1996. The 97 comes as a let-down; I suspect problems at bottling. R 2-7 yearsS 1996U Asparagus with prosciuttoX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Gilbert Riesling Gilbert $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Gilbert H[3wine glasses] 1997 Light straw, with an ominous touch of pink; the bouquet is very tight, crisp and minerally, with subdued fruit, the palate similarly light and toasty, and not a lot of fruit evident. Were it not for the colour, one would hope (and expect) the best as the wine ages, but I am not convinced. RATING: 76 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light straw, with an ominous touch of pink; the bouquet is very tight, crisp and minerally, with subdued fruit, the palate similarly light and toasty, and not a lot of fruit evident. Were it not for the colour, one would hope (and expect) the best as the wine ages, but I am not convinced.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">76 GlenaraP A range of vintages is available at cellar door, showing significant variation in style and quality from one year to the next. The 96 won the only gold medal in the Riesling Class at the 1997 Adelaide Hills Wine Show. Varies according to vintageS 1996U Braised pork neckX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Adelaide Hills Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Glenara Adelaide Hills Riesling Glenara Wines $11-15 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Glenara Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a light, crisp and minerally bouquet which is very youthful and unevolved leads into a powerful palate with firm lime, lemon and mineral flavours and a slightly chalky finish. Will undoubtedly develop. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a light, crisp and minerally bouquet which is very youthful and unevolved leads into a powerful palate with firm lime, lemon and mineral flavours and a slightly chalky finish. Will undoubtedly develop.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 GlenAyrP The Coal River region rivals the Tamar Valley in its capacity to produce full-flavoured red wines of a style one does not traditionally associate with Tasmania. R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Braised duckX 15/7/98` 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia GlenAyr Pinot Noir GlenAyr $16-20 East Coast Tasmania 15/7/98 Glen Ayr b[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red; the bouquet is of medium intensity but quite complex with a mix of gamey/foresty/briary overtones to plummy fruit. The palate is quite powerful, again with a mix of gamey/spicy/foresty/dark berry flavours, which are ripe and which show real style. The only criticism is a slightly grippy finish. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red; the bouquet is of medium intensity but quite complex with a mix of gamey/foresty/briary overtones to plummy fruit. The palate is quite powerful, again with a mix of gamey/spicy/foresty/dark berry flavours, which are ripe and which show real style. The only criticism is a slightly grippy finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 GoundreyP After excellent wines produced between 91 and 95, quality seems to have slipped somewhat notwithstanding the increase in the estate vineyard base.R Now-4 yearsS 1995U Coquilles Saint JacquesX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Goundrey Reserve Chardonnay Goundrey $26-50 Great Southern 14/7/98 Goundrey [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a big, slightly broad style with dried fig and peach aromas and flavours; the major problem lies with the rather hessiany oak which is not well integrated. RATING: 76 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a big, slightly broad style with dried fig and peach aromas and flavours; the major problem lies with the rather hessiany oak which is not well integrated. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">76 GoundreyP The 10 hectares of sauvignon blanc are spread over a number of sites providing differing fruit characters. Overall, the Sauvignon Blancs of the Mount Barker/Frankland region tend to be a little thin and light, but no such complaint could be directed at this wine. R Drink nowS 1996U Queensland mud crabX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Reserve Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _ Goundrey Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Goundrey $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 Goundrey [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a solid bouquet with some herbal notes but which is not particularly aromatic leads into a stout palate with plenty of impact, but which cloys slightly on the finish. Lacks the varietal sparkle of some earlier vintages. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a solid bouquet with some herbal notes but which is not particularly aromatic leads into a stout palate with plenty of impact, but which cloys slightly on the finish. Lacks the varietal sparkle of some earlier vintages.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 GoundreyP Over the past 20 years, the wine which has performed most consistently has been Goundrey Cabernet Sauvignon. Generous, rich and long-lived, it typifies the region. The 96 was a gold medal and trophy winner at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show, and is an excellent wine. 5-10 yearsS! 1991, 1992U Fillet steakX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _#Goundrey Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Goundrey $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 Goundrey F[5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the lush bouquet is flooded with ripe blackberry fruit and high quality oak; the palate is similarly full of perfectly ripened cassis cabernet fruit, with exemplary structure and equally good oak in support. A great wine, but the '96 may prove to be every bit as good. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the lush bouquet is flooded with ripe blackberry fruit and high quality oak; the palate is similarly full of perfectly ripened cassis cabernet fruit, with exemplary structure and equally good oak in support. A great wine, but the '96 may prove to be every bit as good.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Grant BurgeP 12.40 As Grant Burge says, No grape variety produces a wine which tastes so much like crushed, ripe grapes in a glass . It comes from the Lily Farm Vineyard, on the eastern slopes of the Barossa Ranges, appropriately situated next to Grant Burge s front door. R Drink nowS 1996U A summer s morningX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) M Lily Farm Frontignac White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _ Grant Burge Lily Farm Frontignac Grant Burge $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Grant Burge ;[3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; there is gentle lime blossom and spice fruit on the bouquet; the palate is unequivocally, and to my way of thinking, unnecessarily sweet, sweetness which takes away from the wonderful grape flavour of the variety. Once again, others may be more forgiving. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; there is gentle lime blossom and spice fruit on the bouquet; the palate is unequivocally, and to my way of thinking, unnecessarily sweet, sweetness which takes away from the wonderful grape flavour of the variety. Once again, others may be more forgiving.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Grant BurgeP 14.85 6The Thorn Vineyard is situated in the Eden Valley, one of South Australia s two classic riesling areas. Traditionally, Eden Valley Rieslings took many years to develop their characteristic lime aroma and flavour, but modern winemaking seems to be bringing out those characters earlier in the life of the wines. Now-4 yearsS 1996U Smoked trout mousseX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Thorn Vineyard Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _#Grant Burge Thorn Vineyard Riesling Grant Burge $11-15 Eden Valley 14/7/98 Grant Burge [3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a full, soft somewhat broad bouquet with lime juice aromas; a generously flavoured palate with lime and tropical fruit, but a rather heavy, phenolic finish. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a full, soft somewhat broad bouquet with lime juice aromas; a generously flavoured palate with lime and tropical fruit, but a rather heavy, phenolic finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Grant BurgeP 16.50 Grant Burge has been purchasing grapes from Dennis Kraft for 15 years, but it was not until 1994, with the new vineyard identification policy of Grant Burge, that the Kraft Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc made its appearance under that name. It was an auspicious beginning for this vineyard, situated outside Tanunda towards the northern end of the Barossa Valley, and which produced a wine (in 1994) which won an impressive number of show medals in a short period of time. For the record, around 20% B*was barrel-fermented in used American oak. R Drink nowS 1996U Fish terrineX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Kraft Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _*Grant Burge Kraft Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Grant Burge $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Grant Burge [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and quite solid but not much varietal aromaticity. The palate is full-flavoured, with lots of soft sweet fruit, but again is not distinctively varietal. For some, of course, this may be no bad thing. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and quite solid but not much varietal aromaticity. The palate is full-flavoured, with lots of soft sweet fruit, but again is not distinctively varietal. For some, of course, this may be no bad thing.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 Grant BurgeP 19.80 %The first Cabernet Sauvignon to be released from Grant Burge to carry the Cameron Vale name, but by no means the first wine produced by him from the vineyard, which was planted by Grant Burge and his parents in 1971-72 in the low hills behind Lyndoch at the southern end of the Barossa Valley. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Roast beefX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cameron Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _+Grant Burge Cameron Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Grant Burge $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Grant Burge T[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; there is pronounced vanillin American oak on the bouquet, with moderately sweet fruit. The palate has more extract and total weight than the 1995 Filsell Shiraz, with some attractive red fruit flavours and fair tannins. However, the overall flavour driver is that of American oak. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; there is pronounced vanillin American oak on the bouquet, with moderately sweet fruit. The palate has more extract and total weight than the 1995 Filsell Shiraz, with some attractive red fruit flavours and fair tannins. However, the overall flavour driver is that of American oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Grant BurgeP First made in 1988, and the signature wine of the Grant Burge range. Named in honour of Meshach William Burge, Grant Burge s great-grandfather. It is produced from 65-year-old vines grown on the Filsell Vineyard, which also gives its name to the gold and trophy-winning varietal wine which sits alongside Cameron Vale. The 95 was a trophy and gold medal winner at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show. R 10+ yearsS 1992U Braised beefX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Meshach Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Grant Burge Meshach Shiraz Grant Burge Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Grant Burge [4wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; as ever, vanillin oak is the dominant force in the bouquet, but there is sweet, medium weight fruit present. The palate is likewise saturated with oak, but once again has attractive chocolate and berry fruit lurking underneath. Very well made if you like this much oak; the upcoming release of the 95 is excellent, with much more fruit (or less oak). RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; as ever, vanillin oak is the dominant force in the bouquet, but there is sweet, medium weight fruit present. The palate is likewise saturated with oak, but once again has attractive chocolate and berry fruit lurking underneath. Very well made if you like this much oak; the upcoming release of the 95 is excellent, with much more fruit (or less oak). <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 GrossetP 14.95 EMade from hand-picked grapes grown on a single vineyard established on red clay over limestone at an altitude of 450 metres. It is a richer, fuller style than the Polish Hill River wine, and tends to be slightly earlier maturing. All of the recent vintages have been made bone-dry, with deliberately neutral yeast influence. R 5-7 yearsS& 1996U Thai soupX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 White 7c)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked)f M Watervale Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Grosset Watervale Riesling Grosset $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Grosset [5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; vibrant lime, spice and herb aromas on the bouquet announce a wine with an almost fleshy feel in the mouth, with glorious mid to back palate weight; typically elegant, yet very long. RATING: 96 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; vibrant lime, spice and herb aromas on the bouquet announce a wine with an almost fleshy feel in the mouth, with glorious mid to back palate weight; typically elegant, yet very long. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">96 GrossetP 18.95 =A finer, crisper and more elegant wine than the Watervale, with more lime and citrus fruit, albeit less generous. Since 1985 the Molloy Vineyard has been the major source, but as from 1994 estate plantings also contribute. Like the Watervale, made with neutral yeasts and without the use of enzymes. Always brilliant. 7-10 yearsS& 1996U Grilled South Australian whitingX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked)f Polish Hill Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Grosset Polish Hill Riesling Grosset $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Grosset C[5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a very fragrant bouquet with a distinct minerally edge to the herb and spice fruit. The palate is intense but fine, with tremendous grip and length to the finish; tighter and less evolved than the Watervale, but will literally flower with time in bottle. RATING: 96 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a very fragrant bouquet with a distinct minerally edge to the herb and spice fruit. The palate is intense but fine, with tremendous grip and length to the finish; tighter and less evolved than the Watervale, but will literally flower with time in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">96 GrossetP 20.95 hOther than the Tim Knappstein Fum Blanc, which incorporates Lenswood fruit from the Adelaide Hills, this is by far the best example of its kind from the Clare Valley. Immaculate winemaking produces a very fine, elegant, crisp seafood style. Composed of Semillon from the Clare Valley and Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills. Typically only 750 cases made. R Drink nowS 1996U ShellfishX 14/7/98` SE SBa Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _ Grosset Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Grosset $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Grosset /[5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium green-yellow; a perfectly weighted bouquet with gently sweet gooseberry fruit together with some passionfruit nuances is followed by a perfectly balanced wine running through sweet, honeyed Semillon and gooseberry-accented Sauvignon Blanc flavours. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; a perfectly weighted bouquet with gently sweet gooseberry fruit together with some passionfruit nuances is followed by a perfectly balanced wine running through sweet, honeyed Semillon and gooseberry-accented Sauvignon Blanc flavours.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 GrossetP "Since 1994 Jeffrey Grosset has sourced his Chardonnay from Piccadilly in the Adelaide Hills, and labelling it as such. In a far finer style than the preceding Clare Valley wines, and one would imagine a longer future. Forty per cent of the wine is taken through malolactic fermentation. Up to 5 yearsS 1995U GravlaxX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Piccadilly Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Grosset Piccadilly Chardonnay Grosset $26-50 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Grosset 2[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a mix of melon and ripe pear fruit is supported by perfectly balanced and integrated French oak. The same harmony and integration continues through on the palate, with its array of nectarine, pear and melon fruit flavours, and gently spicy oak. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a mix of melon and ripe pear fruit is supported by perfectly balanced and integrated French oak. The same harmony and integration continues through on the palate, with its array of nectarine, pear and melon fruit flavours, and gently spicy oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 GrossetP 31.95Q A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot, typically made in amounts of less than 1000 cases. Shot to stardom with the initial vintage of 1990, and has not faltered since.R 4-10 yearsS 1994U Game pieX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Blends Z Australia Grosset Gaia Grosset $26-50 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Grosset <[5wine glasses] 1995 Medium purple-red; the bouquet is as spotless and immaculate as ever, with wonderful blackberry/cassis fruit; the same sweet cassis/blackberry fruit is the dominant feature of a supple palate, with perfect oak handling and integration, finishing with fine, lingering tannins. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the bouquet is as spotless and immaculate as ever, with wonderful blackberry/cassis fruit; the same sweet cassis/blackberry fruit is the dominant feature of a supple palate, with perfect oak handling and integration, finishing with fine, lingering tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Hay Shed HillP Made from estate-grown grapes produced from vines which are now almost 20 years old, and indicative of the quality to be expected from the winery under this label. The wine spends 18 months in French oak, and is typically produced in a lighter, elegant style. R 5-8 yearsS 1994U Beef casseroleX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _ Hay Shed Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Hay Shed Hill $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Hay Shed Hill ;[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, with cedar, berry and leaf aromas of the kind one associates with a degree of merlot. The palate, likewise, has an attractive display of sweet minty/cedary/berry flavours, finishing with quite brisk acid. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, with cedar, berry and leaf aromas of the kind one associates with a degree of merlot. The palate, likewise, has an attractive display of sweet minty/cedary/berry flavours, finishing with quite brisk acid.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 >N HeemskerkP 31Q_Produced from the 21-hectare Heemskerk estate vineyards from vines which are now 20 years old. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Northern Tasmaniab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Heemskerk Chardonnay c Heemskerk $26-50 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 % Heemskerk [3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is very light, with minerally/toasty characters but the primary fruit subdued. The palate, too, lacks fruit sweetness, veering well to the lean minerally/herbal side which is not particularly varietal. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is very light, with minerally/toasty characters but the primary fruit subdued. The palate, too, lacks fruit sweetness, veering well to the lean minerally/herbal side which is not particularly varietal.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 EN HillstoweP HMcLaren Vale and its adjacent hills have proved to be the most consistent producers of quality Sauvignon Blanc in Australia. The maritime-cooled climate produces wines which retain good varietal character, grassier in the cooler vintages, and more tropical in the warmer years. This wine is a good example of the district style. R Drink nowS 1996U Light seafood, oystersX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Buxton McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _-Hillstowe Buxton McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc c Hillstowe $16-20 Mclaren Vale 14/7/98 % Hillstowe %[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with gooseberry and a touch of passionfruit; light to medium intensity. The palate is solid, with pleasantly ripe varietal character, and fair length, but doesn't have quite the zip and zing of the best years. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with gooseberry and a touch of passionfruit; light to medium intensity. The palate is solid, with pleasantly ripe varietal character, and fair length, but doesn't have quite the zip and zing of the best years.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 FN HillstoweP ZProduced from 3.2 hectares of chardonnay grown in the Carey Gully subdistrict of the Adelaide Hills, adjacent to McLaren Vale. The climate is distinctly cooler, the grapes harvested later, and clearly reflect the climate. The 92 vintage had spectacular international show success at the 1994 Los Angeles New World International Wine Competition. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Trout or salmon mousseX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) s Mill Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Hillstowe Udy s Mill Chardonnay c Hillstowe $26-50 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 % Hillstowe [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a quite complex and tangy bouquet with some citrus notes together with cashew and barrel-ferment characters. The palate, likewise, shows tangy citrus/melon/grapefruit flavours running through to a long finish. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a quite complex and tangy bouquet with some citrus notes together with cashew and barrel-ferment characters. The palate, likewise, shows tangy citrus/melon/grapefruit flavours running through to a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 HollickP 20.60Q A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, matured in a mix of French and American oak barrels for a period of 12 months. R 4-7 yearsS 1994U Gently spiced Asian meat dishesX 14/7/98` CS MT CFa Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Coonawarra Cabernet Blend Cabernet Blends Z Australia _!Hollick Coonawarra Cabernet Blend Hollick $16-20 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Hollick [2.5wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium red; the bouquet is light, with leafy/minty aromas. The palate shows slightly more red fruit flavours, but lacks richness. The problems seem to lie in the vineyard, rather than the winery. RATING: 74 @BM bold:XXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red; the bouquet is light, with leafy/minty aromas. The palate shows slightly more red fruit flavours, but lacks richness. The problems seem to lie in the vineyard, rather than the winery.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">74 HollickP 47.35 _The super-premium wine from Hollick, made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon. Invariably good, sometimes outstanding. First made in 1988, and without any question, scrupulously selected from the very best material available from the estate vineyards. It is much more concentrated, rich and powerful than the other Hollick reds, and is immaculately made. R 10+ yearsS 1993U Scotch filletX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Ravenswood Cabernet Blends Z Australia Hollick Ravenswood Hollick $26-50 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Hollick [4.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid and sweet, with chocolatey, blackberry fruit supported by sweet oak. The palate is almost dense, with dark chocolate, blackberry, mulberry and a touch of earth; good tannin structure. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid and sweet, with chocolatey, blackberry fruit supported by sweet oak. The palate is almost dense, with dark chocolate, blackberry, mulberry and a touch of earth; good tannin structure.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Howard ParkP First made in 1986, and in my view the greatest Riesling made in the Great Southern region, itself home of many of Australia s finest examples of the style. It ages superbly, the 86 still with years in front of it.R 10+ yearsS+ 1996U Fresh asparagus, Asian seafoodX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked)f Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Howard Park Riesling Howard Park $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 Howard Park 5[5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; pristine, lime-accented varietal riesling fruit aromas announce a wine which is on a plane all of its own, immaculately elegant and pure, yet intense. The flavours are predominantly lime, with a hint of pear, the finish crisp but lingering. RATING: 97 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; pristine, lime-accented varietal riesling fruit aromas announce a wine which is on a plane all of its own, immaculately elegant and pure, yet intense. The flavours are predominantly lime, with a hint of pear, the finish crisp but lingering.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">97 Howard ParkP John Wade long resisted the temptation to make a Chardonnay, arguing that he was not happy to do so until he was assured of grapes of the highest quality. In 1993 he realised that a component of Madfish Bay met his requirements, and the wine was made from a blend of 50% Chardonnay grown in the Denmark area, and 50% at Pemberton. In subsequent vintages the sources have varied according to the quality of the available material. R 4-6 yearsS 1995U Pan-fried vealX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Howard Park Chardonnay Howard Park $26-50 Great Southern 14/7/98 Howard Park [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a beautifully crafted wine from start to finish, with fine melon/grapefruit aromas backed up by the sophisticated use of high-quality French oak on the bouquet. A fine, long, supple palate with powerful fruit (the wine has 14 degrees alcohol) is similarly surrounded by gently spiced oak. Retasted October 97; retains delicacy, and unquestionably headed for a long life. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a beautifully crafted wine from start to finish, with fine melon/grapefruit aromas backed up by the sophisticated use of high-quality French oak on the bouquet. A fine, long, supple palate with powerful fruit (the wine has 14 degrees alcohol) is similarly surrounded by gently spiced oak. Retasted October 97; retains delicacy, and unquestionably headed for a long life.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Howard ParkP PLike the Riesling, first made in 1986. The regional and varietal mix has changed a little over the years, with the Cabernet component ranging from between 70% and 85% and the wine being labelled Cabernet Merlot. Always a great wine, it hit new heights in 1994, placing it in the top half-dozen red wines in the country, slipping in 10-15 yearsS! 1994U Lamb fillets, mature cheddarX 14/7/98` CS MTa Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Howard Park Cabernet Merlot Howard Park Great Southern 14/7/98 Howard Park [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; from this point on I have real problems with the wine. Like the curate's egg, it is great in parts, but not others. The others derive from the degree of what is euphemistically called lift and technically called volatile acidity. There are wonderful dark berry and dark chocolate flavours together with that sweet, cedary oak, but I cannot help but notice the volatility. Others may be less pedantic. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; from this point on I have real problems with the wine. Like the curate's egg, it is great in parts, but not others. The others derive from the degree of what is euphemistically called lift and technically called volatile acidity. There are wonderful dark berry and dark chocolate flavours together with that sweet, cedary oak, but I cannot help but notice the volatility. Others may be less pedantic.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn">< \t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Huntington EstateP &As with all of the Huntington Estate wines, made entirely from estate-grown grapes. Yields are low, and the fruit is tremendously powerful and concentrated, producing wines which age slowly but majestically. There is no particular artifice in the making, with American oak playing a minor role. 10-20 yearsS& 1993U Grilled rump steakX 14/7/98` Mudgeeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _$Huntington Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Huntington Estate $11-15 Mudgee t late note 14/7/98 Huntington Estate r[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Bin FB30. Medium red-purple; as one would expect, there is pronounced varietal character in an earthy blackberry spectrum; overall of light to medium intensity. The palate, too, shows firm varietal cabernet fruit, with sweet flavours coming through on the mid to back palate before firm tannins stiffen up the finish. Subtle oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Bin FB30. Medium red-purple; as one would expect, there is pronounced varietal character in an earthy blackberry spectrum; overall of light to medium intensity. The palate, too, shows firm varietal cabernet fruit, with sweet flavours coming through on the mid to back palate before firm tannins stiffen up the finish. Subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 IngoldbyP Over the years Ingoldby has produced some quite wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon. It seems too much to hope that the best material will continue to come out under the Ingoldby label, but this has been a more than half decent wine.R 7-12 yearsS 1995U Steak and kidney pieX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Ingoldby Cabernet Sauvignon Ingoldby $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Ingoldby D[3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a clean bouquet of medium intensity with some leafy edges to a core of blackcurrant fruit backed by subtle oak. A well structured and balanced wine, with a core of fruit sweetness, and the American oak input under control. Not up to the quality of previous vintages. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean bouquet of medium intensity with some leafy edges to a core of blackcurrant fruit backed by subtle oak. A well structured and balanced wine, with a core of fruit sweetness, and the American oak input under control. Not up to the quality of previous vintages.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 ]N Jim BarryP Ranks second to The Armagh Shiraz in terms of price, and first released in 1992. As with The Armagh, it is based upon scrupulous fruit selection, and shows the well-handled use of oak. Whereas The Armagh needs decades, this wine only needs ten years.R 10 yearsS 1994U Jugged hareX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red McCrae Wood Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Jim Barry McCrae Wood Shiraz Jim Barry Wines $26-50 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Jim Barry Wines [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; curious, highly scented mint and fern-like aromas on the bouquet, with all of the above plus five spice on the palate. A wine from left field, but not unattractive. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; curious, highly scented mint and fern-like aromas on the bouquet, with all of the above plus five spice on the palate. A wine from left field, but not unattractive. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 ^N Jim BarryP vFirst made in 1985 from very old, unirrigated, low-yielding vines. Not produced in 1986, and not exhibited in wine shows until the 1987 vintage was made. Since that time every vintage since the 87 has received at least one gold medal, with numerous trophies bestowed on the 89 and 90 vintages, respectively. Unashamedly a Grange pretender, and succeeding well in its aim. 10-20 years 1994U The richest game dish possibleX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red The Armagh Shiraz Z Australia Jim Barry The Armagh Jim Barry Wines Clare Valley 14/7/98 Jim Barry Wines [5wine glasses] 1995 Impenetrable purple; a spotlessly clean yet very concentrated bouquet with ripe blackberry and plum fruit introduces a massively concentrated wine, crammed with black fruits, supplemented by well balanced tannins and generous but not excessive oak. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Impenetrable purple; a spotlessly clean yet very concentrated bouquet with ripe blackberry and plum fruit introduces a massively concentrated wine, crammed with black fruits, supplemented by well balanced tannins and generous but not excessive oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 KarinaP Made from half a hectare of estate plantings employing the neatly trimmed vertical canopy so necessary to obtain fruit ripeness in this cool region. While always elegant and crisp, the wine sometimes lacks depth.R 2-3 yearsS 1996U Crab, musselsX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Karina Riesling Karina Vineyard $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Karina Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a fragrant bouquet with lime and tropical fruit aromas in abundance. The palate is quite delicate, yet reasonably intense, with attractive lime, citrus and passionfruit flavours. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a fragrant bouquet with lime and tropical fruit aromas in abundance. The palate is quite delicate, yet reasonably intense, with attractive lime, citrus and passionfruit flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Katnook EstateP One of the signature wines of Katnook Estate, now made from eight remaining hectares of plantings of this variety. A chance tasting of the 82 vintage in late 1994 emphasised how well the wines can age, even if the change in character is quite radical. On balance, best drunk young. The 97 vintage, incidentally, marked the eighteenth release, putting it in the forefront of Australian Sauvignon Blanc in terms of history. R1Attractive young, but does cellar remarkably wellS! 1996U Grilled whitingX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Katnook Estate Sauvignon Blanc Katnook Estate $21-25 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Katnook Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green, of surprising depth; the bouquet is quite rich and full, and a marked departure in style from previous vintages. The palate provides lots of sweet, almost limey, tropical fruit which has presence but which is not particularly varietal. Difficult to know whether it was the warm dry vintage or some change in technique responsible. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green, of surprising depth; the bouquet is quite rich and full, and a marked departure in style from previous vintages. The palate provides lots of sweet, almost limey, tropical fruit which has presence but which is not particularly varietal. Difficult to know whether it was the warm dry vintage or some change in technique responsible.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Katnook EstateP Stands alongside Sauvignon Blanc as Katnook s most consistent wine, always elegant, and always long-lived. Produced from the pick of 18 hectares of mature vineyards. R Up to 10 yearsS 1994U Poached salmonX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Katnook Estate Chardonnay Katnook Estate $26-50 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Katnook Estate )[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Bright green-yellow; an elegant and stylish bouquet shows attractive melon, white peach and cashew aromas, the palate likewise elegant and restrained, with fine citrus and melon fruit woven through gently nutty barrel-ferment/malolactic ferment characters. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright green-yellow; an elegant and stylish bouquet shows attractive melon, white peach and cashew aromas, the palate likewise elegant and restrained, with fine citrus and melon fruit woven through gently nutty barrel-ferment/malolactic ferment characters.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Katnook EstateP Made from the very best selection from 70 hectares of estate vineyards, but over the years has tended to be relatively lean; since 1991 the wine has shown better fruit richness and balance.R Up to 10 yearsS 1994U Prime rib of beefX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _!Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Katnook Estate $26-50 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Katnook Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with cassis berry fruit of medium intensity, supported by subtle oak. The palate is finely balanced and modulated, with more cassis berry fruit, fine tannins and subtle, gentle oak. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with cassis berry fruit of medium intensity, supported by subtle oak. The palate is finely balanced and modulated, with more cassis berry fruit, fine tannins and subtle, gentle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 KillerbyP In recent years, the best of the Killerby wines. The wine has been given the ultimate rating of five gold stars by Robin Bradley. R 3-5 yearsS 1996U Chicken supremeX 14/7/98` CHa Geographeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Killerby Chardonnay Killerby $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Killerby _[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is quite complex, with some solids barrel ferment characters which tend to diminish the primary fruit. The wine, however, gradually opens up on the palate, with considerable length and flavours running through melon, citrus and Nashi pear. Minimal oak input throughout. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is quite complex, with some solids barrel ferment characters which tend to diminish the primary fruit. The wine, however, gradually opens up on the palate, with considerable length and flavours running through melon, citrus and Nashi pear. Minimal oak input throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Knight Granite HillsP oThe fact that the vineyard is called Granite Hills, and is situated on the Burke and Wills Track gives some idea of the remoteness, if not the high elevation, of this vineyard. The winds which blow incessantly, and the granite soils, keep yields low and flavours generally high. In most years, the Shiraz is very spicy, but occasionally spicy notes are less evident. R 4-6 yearsS 1991U LasagneX 14/7/98` Macedonb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Knight Granite Hills Shiraz Knight Granite Hills $21-25 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 Knight Granite Hills [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is smooth, quite intense, with plum, cherry and chocolate fruit, but no spice. The palate is soft, of medium weight, with plummy/cherry fruit, soft tannins, and barely perceptible oak influence. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is smooth, quite intense, with plum, cherry and chocolate fruit, but no spice. The palate is soft, of medium weight, with plummy/cherry fruit, soft tannins, and barely perceptible oak influence.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 KoppamurraP 11.50 `Made from a varying blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with the Cabernet component ranging between a low of 60% and a high of 88%. Cabernet Merlot has always been the most frequently produced wine in the somewhat unpredictable Koppamurra stable, with wines coming and going, and is invariably a pleasant, if relatively light, wine. Up to 10 yearsS 1995U Light Italian foodX 14/7/98` CS CF MTa Koppamurrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Koppamurra Cabernet Merlot Koppamurra $11-15 Limestone Coast 14/7/98 Koppamurra "[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; attractive, sweet cedar, red berry, earth and chocolate aromas to a bouquet of medium intensity are followed by equally attractive fresh, red berry fruit flavours on the palate. Nicely ripened and youthful, with soft, dusty tannins. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; attractive, sweet cedar, red berry, earth and chocolate aromas to a bouquet of medium intensity are followed by equally attractive fresh, red berry fruit flavours on the palate. Nicely ripened and youthful, with soft, dusty tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Lake BreezeP Originally the flag-bearer, but now supplanted by the Winemakers Selection range. Nonetheless, continues to be an outstanding Cabernet.R 5-10 yearsS 1995U Smoked kangaroo filletX 14/7/98` Langhorne Creekb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Lake Breeze Cabernet Sauvignon Lake Breeze Wines $16-20 Langhorne Creek 14/7/98 Lake Breeze Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a rich, ripe and lush bouquet with dark berry and prune fruit aromas is followed by a very rich, dense and concentrated palate with more of those blackcurrant and prune fruit characters. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a rich, ripe and lush bouquet with dark berry and prune fruit aromas is followed by a very rich, dense and concentrated palate with more of those blackcurrant and prune fruit characters. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Lake BreezeP A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Shiraz, drawn from the large Follett family vineyards. A wine which has varied somewhat in style over the years, ranging between pleasant and very good, and with varying oak inputs.R 10+ yearsS 1995U Rich game or steakX 14/7/98` CS SHa Langhorne Creekb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Bernoota Cabernet Blends Z Australia Lake Breeze Bernoota Lake Breeze Wines $11-15 Langhorne Creek 14/7/98 Lake Breeze Wines [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; scented, sweet, mint, vanilla and berry aromas are followed by a palate of light to medium weight with similarly leafy/minty/berry flavours. Slightly soapy finish. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; scented, sweet, mint, vanilla and berry aromas are followed by a palate of light to medium weight with similarly leafy/minty/berry flavours. Slightly soapy finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 s FollyP Like Max Lake himself, never far from controversy; again like Max Lake, full of earthy personality. It is not a wine which can or should be judged by conventional standards; if it were to be so treated, the judgment would not do the wine justice. A slightly varying blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, 10% Shiraz and 10% Merlot. Cork taint affecting many older bottles is an unpredictable hazard. 4-15 yearsS& 1995U Rabbit, hareX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia s Folly Cabernets Lake's Folly $26-50 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Lake's Folly E[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a quite austere bouquet with earthy/leathery aromas bordering on the astringent. Loosens up slightly on the palate, which is predominantly driven by austere earthy Cabernet, speaking of the terroir, but with definite hints of violets and mint to provide softer notes. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a quite austere bouquet with earthy/leathery aromas bordering on the astringent. Loosens up slightly on the palate, which is predominantly driven by austere earthy Cabernet, speaking of the terroir, but with definite hints of violets and mint to provide softer notes.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 s FollyP Only 1200 cases a year (with some seasonal variation) are made from estate-grown grapes. The wine is invariably correct in style, and unlike the Cabernets should cause no discussion or argument. R 3-6 yearsS+ 1995U SweetbreadsX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia s Folly Chardonnay Lake's Folly $26-50 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Lake's Folly s[5wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-green; a complex yet elegant bouquet with multilayered mineral/stone fruit characters, giving a Burgundian tang and grip. A stylish wine in which the winemaker's thumbprints are very evident, yet still retains a core of tight fruit in a highly structured wine with secondary characters giving complexity. Outstanding. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; a complex yet elegant bouquet with multilayered mineral/stone fruit characters, giving a Burgundian tang and grip. A stylish wine in which the winemaker's thumbprints are very evident, yet still retains a core of tight fruit in a highly structured wine with secondary characters giving complexity. Outstanding.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 {N Lark HillP A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot which does best in warmer vintages such as 1991. Overall, the move at Lark Hill is towards the earlier-ripening varieties, with the wine showing leafy/minty characters in less warm years. The 95 vintage produced the top gold medal at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show (class 56 Small Producers Dry Red Table Wine), rounding off a marvellous show for Lark Hill. R 4-7 yearsS 1995U Rabbit, hareX 14/7/98` CS CF MTa Canberra District 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Lark Hill Cabernet Merlot c Lark Hill $21-25 Canberra District 14/7/98 % Lark Hill ,[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Dense purple-red; an immense wine on both bouquet and palate; without being overly unkind, almost like dry vintage Port. There are essency/jammy berry aromas and flavours, yet the wine is not astringent, bitter or excessively extractive. Striking and unusual. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense purple-red; an immense wine on both bouquet and palate; without being overly unkind, almost like dry vintage Port. There are essency/jammy berry aromas and flavours, yet the wine is not astringent, bitter or excessively extractive. Striking and unusual.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 LeasinghamP 20.99 The blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec has been a Clare Valley specialty for decades; anyone lucky enough to have the 71 Bin 56 or virtually any of Wendouree s Cabernet Malbecs will need no persuasion of the merits of the blend. The 94 vintage won two gold and two silver medals, continuing a consistent record of show success for this wine. The 95 vintage has been particularly successful in the show ring, winning four gold medals. 7-12 yearsS 1994U Jugged hareX 14/7/98` CS MAa Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec Cabernet Blends Z Australia _!Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec Leasingham $16-20 Clare Valley Changed 14/7/98 Leasingham [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Full red-purple; a concentrated bouquet with hints of black fruit and dark chocolate aromas supported by abundant but not excessive oak. Voluptuously rich on the palate, with a range of chewy dark fruit and dark chocolate flavours. The wine has good tannin structure, and it is not hard to see why it won four gold medals in the first year of its show life. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; a concentrated bouquet with hints of black fruit and dark chocolate aromas supported by abundant but not excessive oak. Voluptuously rich on the palate, with a range of chewy dark fruit and dark chocolate flavours. The wine has good tannin structure, and it is not hard to see why it won four gold medals in the first year of its show life.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 LeasinghamP 20.99 A junior brother to the Classic Clare, with less weight and extract, and seemingly relying upon the use of some oak chips as well as barrels. The quality of Clare Valley Shiraz is still very evident, and the wine is exceptionally well-priced. The 94 vintage won three trophies. 5-10 yearsS 1994U Spiced lamb kebabsX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Bin 61 Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz Leasingham $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Leasingham %[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a massive wine as ever, but the fruit and oak seem in balance on the bouquet, with ample black cherry/blackberry fruit. The full frontal palate is unashamedly concentrated, with juicy/chewy fruit and oak, but it all works well. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a massive wine as ever, but the fruit and oak seem in balance on the bouquet, with ample black cherry/blackberry fruit. The full frontal palate is unashamedly concentrated, with juicy/chewy fruit and oak, but it all works well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 LeasinghamP dThe best Clare Valley Shiraz available to Leasingham is matured in (real) new American oak barrels, consistently producing a wine of tremendous depth and richness. Whether less would be better depends on one s personal perspective; certainly the wine has had great success in wine shows, none more so than the 94 which won the Jimmy Watson Trophy in 1995. 10-15 yearsS 1995U(Kangaroo, strong red meat, strong cheeseX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Classic Clare Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Leasingham Classic Clare Shiraz Leasingham $26-50 Clare Valley t late note 14/7/98 Leasingham >[4wine glasses] 1995 Dense red-purple; the bouquet is quite literally huge, with masses of fruit and masses of blockbuster charry oak; the palate provides the same in spades, simply monumental, with extraordinary amounts of extract and oak. A D9 bulldozer. Retasted January 1998 with identical notes. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet is quite literally huge, with masses of fruit and masses of blockbuster charry oak; the palate provides the same in spades, simply monumental, with extraordinary amounts of extract and oak. A D9 bulldozer. Retasted January 1998 with identical notes.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 LeconfieldP 22.99 A wine which is not produced every vintage, but only in those years in which the fruit is judged to have gained sufficient ripeness and depth. In 1995 the wine won vinous Tattslotto, walking away with a truckload of trophies from the Adelaide Wine Show, including the title of Winemaker of the Year for Ralph Fowler (and a business-class trip around the world for two). The 96 may not be quite in the same class, but is a worthy successor. R 4-6 yearsS 1995U Beef casseroleX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Leconfield Shiraz Leconfield $21-25 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Leconfield 3[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the initial impression is of fresh spice and earth fruit, but complex liquorice characters gradually built in the glass; subtle oak. Similarly, spicy varietal character grew and grew on retasting; an elegant but complex wine in a particular style. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the initial impression is of fresh spice and earth fruit, but complex liquorice characters gradually built in the glass; subtle oak. Similarly, spicy varietal character grew and grew on retasting; an elegant but complex wine in a particular style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Leeuwin EstateP 67.45 The core of the Art Series Chardonnay is Block 20 (one of five blocks on the estate) with yields never exceeding 2.5 tonnes to the acre, and frequently less than 2 tonnes. Barrel fermentation in the finest French oak, and prolonged bottle maturation do the rest. 7-12 yearsS5 1994U Richer veal, chicken dishesX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Art Series Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay Leeuwin Estate Margaret River t late note 14/7/98 Leeuwin Estate [5wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium yellow-green; an exceptionally intense, complex yet fine bouquet with perfectly married nutty barrel-ferment characters running through sweet melon and citrus fruit is followed by an intense, yet elegant palate with melon, cashew, chestnut, citrus and oak spice flavours. Long and penetrating, with excellent acidity, the wine has an indefinite future, however seductive it is now. RATING: 97 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; an exceptionally intense, complex yet fine bouquet with perfectly married nutty barrel-ferment characters running through sweet melon and citrus fruit is followed by an intense, yet elegant palate with melon, cashew, chestnut, citrus and oak spice flavours. Long and penetrating, with excellent acidity, the wine has an indefinite future, however seductive it is now.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">97 Leeuwin EstateP 40.30 Typically lean and elegant wines which take many years to show their best, making no concessions to the more typical softly fruity Australian commercial red wine styles. R 10+ yearsS! 1993U Eye fillet of lambX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _,Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon Leeuwin Estate $26-50 Margaret River t late note 14/7/98 Leeuwin Estate ?[4wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with a mix of cedary, earthy and more briary aromas. The palate has attractive texture and flavour, with chocolate, briar and cedar overtones to the red fruits. Almost milky soft tannins run through the length of the palate. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with a mix of cedary, earthy and more briary aromas. The palate has attractive texture and flavour, with chocolate, briar and cedar overtones to the red fruits. Almost milky soft tannins run through the length of the palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Predominantly sourced from the Le Grys estate vineyard, but with 10% coming from the Beatrice Estate. Made in a fairly direct style, with some lees contact but not a great deal of oak.S GnocchiX 4292Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Le Grys Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Le Grys Chardonnay c Mud House $21-25 14/7/98 4/2/98 Mud House/Le Grys ;[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium green-yellow; the bouquet is light, with herbal fruit characters and even a hint of matchbox. The palate shows citrus/herbal fruit flavours suggesting the grapes were not as ripe as they might have been; the oak is faintly blurry, particularly on the finish. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; the bouquet is light, with herbal fruit characters and even a hint of matchbox. The palate shows citrus/herbal fruit flavours suggesting the grapes were not as ripe as they might have been; the oak is faintly blurry, particularly on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Leo BuringP 14.95Q An approximately equal blend of Barossa Valley and Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon matured in a mix of new and two-year-old American oak barrels for 12 months. Has been a consistent medal winner in national wine shows in recent years.R 5-8 years 1991, 1993U Rib of beefX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Barossa/Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _0Leo Buring Barossa/Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Leo Buring $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Leo Buring [4wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; a solid bouquet with plenty of sweet dark berry/blackcurrant/mulberry fruit, with a nice mix of chocolate and berry fruit on the palate. The oak is subtle and well integrated, the tannins balanced. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a solid bouquet with plenty of sweet dark berry/blackcurrant/mulberry fruit, with a nice mix of chocolate and berry fruit on the palate. The oak is subtle and well integrated, the tannins balanced. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 N LillydaleP 15.95 ;Lillydale Vineyards was one of the first producers of Sauvignon Blanc in the Yarra Valley, finding the variety very difficult to handle from a viticultural viewpoint, with inconsistent and often very low yields. Production has increased somewhat in recent years, the wine normally being made without the use of oak. R Drink nowS 1996U ShellfishX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Lillydale Sauvignon Blanc Lillydale Vineyards $11-15 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Lillydale Vineyards [3wine glasses] 1997 An extremely disappointing wine with oily coconut overtones apparently deriving from the use of some poorly chosen oak. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">An extremely disappointing wine with oily coconut overtones apparently deriving from the use of some poorly chosen oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 N LillydaleP 15.95Q~An attractive wine very much in the family style, though with (relatively speaking) a little more depth than the white wines. R Drink nowS 1996U Chinese seafoodX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Lillydale Pinot Noir Lillydale Vineyards $11-15 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Lillydale Vineyards d[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; the bouquet, initially firm and a little closed, progressively opened up with good plum and cherry varietal fruit. The palate, likewise firm, but with good weight and structure, also has plenty of plummy fruit, finishing with fine tannins. Given two or three years, will soften and gain complexity. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet, initially firm and a little closed, progressively opened up with good plum and cherry varietal fruit. The palate, likewise firm, but with good weight and structure, also has plenty of plummy fruit, finishing with fine tannins. Given two or three years, will soften and gain complexity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Lyre Bird HillP This South Gippsland location is clearly ideally suited to Shiraz. The half hectare of shiraz has produced a vibrantly peppery wine each vintage since 1991, usually with quite startling flavour.R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Wild duckX 14/7/98` SHa Gippslandb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Lyre Bird Hill Shiraz Lyre Bird Hill $16-20 r Gippsland 14/7/98 Lyre Bird Hill [3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium red; the bouquet is light and clean with leafy/spicy fruit aromas, deepening on the palate into cold rather than cool climate characters, extremely leafy and spicy. Just made the drinkability point. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red; the bouquet is light and clean with leafy/spicy fruit aromas, deepening on the palate into cold rather than cool climate characters, extremely leafy and spicy. Just made the drinkability point.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 BarwangP 14.95 From the Barwang Vineyard in the Hilltops region, near Young, New South Wales, purchased from Peter Robertson some years ago, and now significantly expanded. Made in a restrained style, with subtle oak and which evolves steadily but slowly given time in bottle. R 3-4 yearsS 1995U CalamariX 14/7/98` Hilltopsb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Barwang Chardonnay Barwang Vineyard $11-15 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 Barwang Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with gentle fig, peach and cashew aromas, but is not intense. The palate has some elegance, with mineral, cashew and melon flavours, but is very restrained and light. Time in bottle may be its own reward. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with gentle fig, peach and cashew aromas, but is not intense. The palate has some elegance, with mineral, cashew and melon flavours, but is very restrained and light. Time in bottle may be its own reward.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 BarwangP 14.95 The continental climate of the Barwang Vineyard, marked by cold nights and warm summer days, but with the growing season finishing much later than it does in either the Hunter Valley or Mudgee, produces red wines of considerable flavour, power and extract, exemplified by this wine. Up to 15 yearsS 1994U Beef WellingtonX 14/7/98` Hilltopsb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Barwang Cabernet Sauvignon Barwang Vineyard $11-15 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area t late note 14/7/98 Barwang Vineyard [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is full and sweet, with complex red berry, vanilla and chocolate aromas, the palate even better, with rich, sweet cassis, berry and chocolate flavours; excellent tannins and structure. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is full and sweet, with complex red berry, vanilla and chocolate aromas, the palate even better, with rich, sweet cassis, berry and chocolate flavours; excellent tannins and structure.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 BarwangP 14.95Q Overall, the Shiraz has been the best performer in a classy stable. Each vintage has been extremely good, with very clear varietal character, the only problem being a slight hardness in the mouth in the lesser years. R 5-8 yearsS 1995U Kraft Australian parmesanX 14/7/98` Hilltopsb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Barwang Shiraz Barwang Vineyard $11-15 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area t late note 14/7/98 Barwang Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; intense cherry, spice and earth varietal aromas with typically restrained oak follow-through on the palate, with liquorice, cherry and earth flavours and fine-grained tannins to close. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; intense cherry, spice and earth varietal aromas with typically restrained oak follow-through on the palate, with liquorice, cherry and earth flavours and fine-grained tannins to close.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Main RidgeP ^Since 1991 Nat White has moved away from conventional Australian techniques to a far more French-influenced regimen, using barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation and lees contact. As is inevitably the case in the Mornington Peninsula, style and quality reflect vintage variations, with the warmer, drier years tending to produce the best wines. Up to 5 yearsS 1995U SweetbreadsX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Main Ridge Chardonnay Main Ridge Estate $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Main Ridge Estate E[4wine glasses] 1996 Full yellow; a very complex and rich bouquet with a mix of nutmeg, cinnamon, yellow peach and cashew variously deriving from fruit, oak and malolactic fermentation introduce a high-flavoured wine with a similar range of characters and flavours on the palate. Finishes with good acidity. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full yellow; a very complex and rich bouquet with a mix of nutmeg, cinnamon, yellow peach and cashew variously deriving from fruit, oak and malolactic fermentation introduce a high-flavoured wine with a similar range of characters and flavours on the palate. Finishes with good acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Massoni Main CreekP Produced from 1.5 hectares of estate plantings, and made using the full gamut of barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation and lees contact. In many ways the most striking example of Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay, with tremendous character, body and richness. R 3-6 yearsS! 1995U Veal, porkX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Red Hill Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Massoni Main Creek Red Hill Chardonnay Massoni Main Creek $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Massoni Main Creek h[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a solidly rich and ripe bouquet with strong melon and peach fruit, together with subtle oak; the malolactic influence is restrained. On the palate there is more of the same, with solidly ripe fig and melon fruit, even more powerful than that of the bouquet. The oak is subtle; well made-wine. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a solidly rich and ripe bouquet with strong melon and peach fruit, together with subtle oak; the malolactic influence is restrained. On the palate there is more of the same, with solidly ripe fig and melon fruit, even more powerful than that of the bouquet. The oak is subtle; well made-wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Massoni Main CreekP The mirror image of the Chardonnay, always rich, full-bodied and opulent, where so many of the Mornington wines Pinot and Chardonnay alike tend to be prettier and more elegant.R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Breast of duckX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Red Hill Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _&Massoni Main Creek Red Hill Pinot Noir Massoni Main Creek $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Massoni Main Creek [4wine glasses] 1996 Bright but light red-purple; the aromas are fragrant and intense, with plum fruit touched with spice and subtle oak. The palate is very lively, with sappy/spicy/plummy fruit flavours; the only possible criticism is that the acid is a little brisk. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright but light red-purple; the aromas are fragrant and intense, with plum fruit touched with spice and subtle oak. The palate is very lively, with sappy/spicy/plummy fruit flavours; the only possible criticism is that the acid is a little brisk.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 MaxwellP zAs with all of the Maxwell wines, sourced primarily from grapes grown on Maxwell s own vineyards. A full-flavoured style which neither needs nor is given any oak input, and should age very well. A wine which hit a new height in 1995, coming first in its class at the annual Winewise Small Makers Competition in February 1996. The 97 marks a return to the form shown by the R 2-6 yearsS! 1996U Char-grilled octopusX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Maxwell Semillon Maxwell Wines e under $10 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Maxwell Wines ;[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with good depth and varietal character in a lemony mould. A very well-made wine on the palate, with plenty of depth to the fruit, yet avoiding over-extraction or phenolics, the absence of oak a plus. Exceptional value at the price. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with good depth and varietal character in a lemony mould. A very well-made wine on the palate, with plenty of depth to the fruit, yet avoiding over-extraction or phenolics, the absence of oak a plus. Exceptional value at the price.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MildaraP Introduced in 1992, and named after a local landmark which (slightly embarrassingly) turned out to be outside the tentative boundaries for Coonawarra. The problem was resolved by bestowing the name on one of the Coonawarra vineyards within the boundary. Had an auspicious start winning the Stodart Trophy and three gold medals in national wine shows. A similar blend to Jamiesons Run but with more weight. R 3-7 yearsS 1994U Roast beefX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Robertson s Well Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _+Mildara Robertson s Well Cabernet Sauvignon Mildara (Coonawarra) $16-20 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Mildara (Coonawarra) [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; a concentrated bouquet with dark fruit aromas and slightly raw oak leads into a palate which shows strong red berry fruit before dipping somewhat on the finish. The raw oak doesn't help, either. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; a concentrated bouquet with dark fruit aromas and slightly raw oak leads into a palate which shows strong red berry fruit before dipping somewhat on the finish. The raw oak doesn't help, either. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 MildaraP A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the last two in lesser quantities, entirely sourced from Mildara s extensive Coonawarra vineyards. Has enjoyed extraordinary show success over the years, and held its quality, notwithstanding vast increases in volume. R 3-4 yearsS 1994U Mediterranean, Italian cuisineX 14/7/98 CS SH MT CFa Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Jamiesons Run Coonawarra Red Cabernet Blends Z Australia _$Mildara Jamiesons Run Coonawarra Red Mildara (Coonawarra) $11-15 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Mildara (Coonawarra) [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; a fragrant, potent mix of berry, leaf, spice and earth aromas lead into a wine of excellent weight and structure, right back to the best. Sweet red cherry, mint and blackberry flavours run through the palate; subtle oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; a fragrant, potent mix of berry, leaf, spice and earth aromas lead into a wine of excellent weight and structure, right back to the best. Sweet red cherry, mint and blackberry flavours run through the palate; subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MildaraP >A wine made famous by the 1963 vintage, immediately and forever nicknamed Peppermint Pattie because of its intense eucalypt aromas and flavours. A separate wine entry is given for this wine because it remains a landmark. There have been some other excellent vintages over the years, but nothing to challenge the R 4-7 yearsS 1992U Beef casseroleX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _%Mildara Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Mildara (Coonawarra) $21-25 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Mildara (Coonawarra) [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; there is attractive clean, rich cassis/berry fruit on the bouquet and lively red fruit flavours on the palate. Spicy/charry oak is not integrated, and the palate seems a little undermade/unformed. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; there is attractive clean, rich cassis/berry fruit on the bouquet and lively red fruit flavours on the palate. Spicy/charry oak is not integrated, and the palate seems a little undermade/unformed. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 MiramarP Another slow-developing wine made from estate-grown grapes, moving progressively earthy, cedary characters as it ages. The oak contribution is typically subtle. R 5-8 yearsS 1995U'Braised oxtail, or better still, the oxX 14/7/98` Mudgeeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Miramar Shiraz Miramar $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 Miramar 7[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, full and smooth with nicely balanced black cherry and sweet vanilla oak. There is similarly attractive cherry and mint fruit on the entry of the wine into the mouth, although the finish is fractionally hard; lots of flavour RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, full and smooth with nicely balanced black cherry and sweet vanilla oak. There is similarly attractive cherry and mint fruit on the entry of the wine into the mouth, although the finish is fractionally hard; lots of flavour<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 MeadowbankP Produced from just under 1 hectare of estate-grown riesling, which constituted the first plantings at Meadowbank, and which were initially sold to Hickinbotham Winemakers (in the late 1970s), transported across Bass Strait in styrene containers.R 3 yearsS 1994U AsparagusX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Meadowbank Riesling Meadowbank Wines $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Meadowbank Wines 0[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a highly floral, scented bouquet with a wonderful mix of apple blossom, cinnamon and spice aromas. Those same Gewurztraminer-like spicy characters come through on a palate with distinct Germanic characters, and a blossom-like delicacy. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a highly floral, scented bouquet with a wonderful mix of apple blossom, cinnamon and spice aromas. Those same Gewurztraminer-like spicy characters come through on a palate with distinct Germanic characters, and a blossom-like delicacy.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 MirandaP 8.95Q Sourced from the Riverina, with lesser a percentage from the Hunter and Barossa Valleys. Part of the wine was barrel-fermented and given some oak ageing. You certainly get more than you pay for. R Drink nowS 1996U Seafood pastaX 14/7/98` CHa Riverina b 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Mirrool Creek Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Miranda Mirrool Creek Chardonnay Miranda e under $10 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 Miranda [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a typically rich, full ripe peachy bouquet with subtle oak leads into a soft, full, peachy palate; rapidly developing style for immediate consumption. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a typically rich, full ripe peachy bouquet with subtle oak leads into a soft, full, peachy palate; rapidly developing style for immediate consumption.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 MitchellP First made in 1977 and produced from the estate vineyards in the Watervale region. This is a classic Clare Riesling which, as the classic tasting shows, ages magnificently for up to 15 years in good vintages.R 5-10+ yearsS! 1996U Grilled fishX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked)f M Watervale Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Mitchell Watervale Riesling Mitchell $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Mitchell [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a rich, full and toasty bouquet, one of the big 97 Clare Valley styles. (The year broke into two.) A big, generously flavoured palate. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a rich, full and toasty bouquet, one of the big 97 Clare Valley styles. (The year broke into two.) A big, generously flavoured palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 MitchellP First made in 1976; from then to 1983 fashioned entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon, but between then and 1985 first Cabernet Franc and then Merlot were added, now contributing 5 15% of the finished wine, which is aged in a mix of new and older French oak.R 7-15 yearsS! 1994U Roast lambX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Mitchell Cabernet Sauvignon Mitchell $21-25 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Mitchell [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; a solid and full bouquet with ripe earthy blackberry fruit runs into a palate of medium weight which starts with good cassis berry fruit, although it seems to fall away slightly on the mid to back palate. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a solid and full bouquet with ripe earthy blackberry fruit runs into a palate of medium weight which starts with good cassis berry fruit, although it seems to fall away slightly on the mid to back palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 MitchellP Like the Semillon, first made in 1984, and which takes its name from the old peppertree which grows in the shiraz vineyard at Watervale. The wine is aged for 18 months in small French and American oak; in some years it shows minty characters, in other years more spice and cherry. R 5-7 yearsS 1995U Devilled kidneysX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Peppertree Vineyard Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _#Mitchell Peppertree Vineyard Shiraz Mitchell $21-25 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Mitchell %[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; there are solid, dark berry and chocolate fruit aromas supported by subtle but sweet oak on the bouquet. The palate is at once elegant yet strongly flavoured with red berry, mint, touches of spice, soft tannins and subtle oak. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; there are solid, dark berry and chocolate fruit aromas supported by subtle but sweet oak on the bouquet. The palate is at once elegant yet strongly flavoured with red berry, mint, touches of spice, soft tannins and subtle oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 MitcheltonP 12.95 ^Over the past few years Blackwood Park has laid claim to being the best commercial Riesling in Australia, even though its origins go back to 1978 under different labels. Since that time various vintages have won eight trophies, 51 gold, 66 silver and 102 bronze medals, with the 94 and 95 vintages adding to both the trophy and gold medal records. Now-3 yearsS 1996U SashimiX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Blackwood Park Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _"Mitchelton Blackwood Park Riesling Mitchelton $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Mitchelton [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; rich, forward and full tropical/passionfruit aromas introduce a ripe fleshy wine with more of that tropical/pineapple fruit of the bouquet. Flavoursome, quick developing style. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; rich, forward and full tropical/passionfruit aromas introduce a ripe fleshy wine with more of that tropical/pineapple fruit of the bouquet. Flavoursome, quick developing style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 MitcheltonP 13.95 INamed in honour of Colin Preece, one of the great winemakers of the 20th century, and for decades chief winemaker at Seppelt Great Western. He came out of a ten-year retirement to help found Mitchelton in 1973. The wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, made predominantly from fruit grown in the Goulburn and King Valleys of Victoria. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Spaghetti with pestoX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Preece Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _$Mitchelton Preece Cabernet Sauvignon Mitchelton $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Mitchelton [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and fresh, with light berry and earth fruit; subtle oak. Precisely the same things happen in the mouth, with fresh red berry fruit, a touch of earth and a whisper of oak; pleasant, not complex. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and fresh, with light berry and earth fruit; subtle oak. Precisely the same things happen in the mouth, with fresh red berry fruit, a touch of earth and a whisper of oak; pleasant, not complex.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 MitcheltonP 13.95 This wine caused a sensation when it was first released in 1989. The packaging was unlike anything which had previously been seen in Australia, and the wine itself was exceptionally good. Quality wandered a bit after that, but has been pulled back over the past few years, and it is small wonder that this is such an important wine in the Mitchelton stable. For the record, it is sourced from the King and Goulburn Valleys. R Drink nowS 1996U Multicultural dishesX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Preece Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Mitchelton Preece Chardonnay Mitchelton $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Mitchelton 7[3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with mineral and citrus aromas together with subtle oak. The palate is interesting, with cool-grown fruit predominant, running through a slightly vegetal melon/melon rind flavours. Not unappealing. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with mineral and citrus aromas together with subtle oak. The palate is interesting, with cool-grown fruit predominant, running through a slightly vegetal melon/melon rind flavours. Not unappealing. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 MitcheltonP 23.95 In 1981 Mitchelton conceived the idea of staging a Print Exhibition and making an annual purchase of the best print in the exhibition for subsequent use as the label of the best red wine of the vintage. Both the 90 and 91 vintages were outstanding, the former winning the Jimmy Watson Trophy. Having started life as a Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz has ruled the roost for most recent vintages. However, the best wine of the 1994 vintage was a Cabernet Sauvignon, but with 1995 the wine will reveBGrt to Shiraz. For the record, only 400 cases were made of the Cabernet. Up to 10 yearsS 1992, 1993U Marinated venisonX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Print Label Shiraz Z Australia Mitchelton Print Label Red Mitchelton $21-25 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Mitchelton v[4wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is intense to the point of being strident, with minty aromas typical of Central Victoria. The palate is powerful and concentrated, with a mix of mint, cassis and raspberry flavours, supported by powerful tannins. Others will rate the wine even more highly; I would simply like a little less mint. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is intense to the point of being strident, with minty aromas typical of Central Victoria. The palate is powerful and concentrated, with a mix of mint, cassis and raspberry flavours, supported by powerful tannins. Others will rate the wine even more highly; I would simply like a little less mint.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Moondah BrookP 14.99 $A wine which is sometimes plain, sometimes quite brilliant. In the latter category was the 95, the top gold medal in the 70-strong Commercial Dry White Table Wine (full-bodied) C class at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show, but in vintages such as 93 and 97 simply a pleasant commercial white wine. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U MarronX 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Moondah Brook Chardonnay Moondah Brook $11-15 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Moondah Brook [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite tangy, with a mix of citrus, melon and lime/nectarine fruit; on the palate the mix of citrus, lime and vegetal flavours all point to less than perfectly ripened fruit. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite tangy, with a mix of citrus, melon and lime/nectarine fruit; on the palate the mix of citrus, lime and vegetal flavours all point to less than perfectly ripened fruit. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Moondah BrookP 17.99 The Moondah Brook label is something of a misnomer, as fruit sources have gradually extended across the State of Western Australia. So it is with the Cabernet Sauvignon, which burst into prominence with the 91 vintage, winning gold medals at national shows, made from Margaret River and Great Southern fruit. The 94 was another outstanding wine, but other vintages have been mere mortals. Short term onlyS 1994U Veal chops Italian-style X 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _ Moondah Brook Cabernet Sauvignon Moondah Brook $16-20 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Moondah Brook C[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; both the bouquet and palate show rather raw, resiny oak of the kind which seems to appeal to some show judges (it certainly did so at the Cowra Wine Show, where this wine was given a gold medal); there is quite rich blackberry fruit, but it is not enough. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; both the bouquet and palate show rather raw, resiny oak of the kind which seems to appeal to some show judges (it certainly did so at the Cowra Wine Show, where this wine was given a gold medal); there is quite rich blackberry fruit, but it is not enough.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Moorilla EstateP A complex wine which is, as one would expect, very much in cool-climate style. It is produced from 2.5 hectares of immaculately trained estate vineyards, and given what might loosely be called the full treatment in the winery. Sometimes, as in 1993, botrytis makes an impact on the wine. The 95 won the trophy for Best Wine of Show at the 1997 Tasmanian Wines Show, bettering the trophy (Best White Wine) won by the 94 the previous year. R 4-6 yearsS! 1994U Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Moorilla Estate Chardonnay Moorilla Estate $21-25 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Moorilla Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the aromas are smooth, with a mix of citrus, lime and stone fruit; subtle oak. Similar flavours run through the long palate, which terminates with typically brisk Tasmanian acid. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the aromas are smooth, with a mix of citrus, lime and stone fruit; subtle oak. Similar flavours run through the long palate, which terminates with typically brisk Tasmanian acid.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Moorilla EstateP 19.50 In my view, consistently the best of the Moorilla Estate wines, reaching a high point in 1994, but with a long track record of excellence. Produced from 1.5 hectares of estate vineyards. In addition, the occasional releases of Botrytised Riesling (by mailing list and through cellar door), are sensational. The 1994 won the trophy for Best Museum Wine in the 1998 Tasmanian Wines Show. R 5-7 yearsS! 1996U AsparagusX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Moorilla Estate Riesling Moorilla Estate $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Moorilla Estate +[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, smooth bouquet with sweet, gentle lime aromas and a similarly clean, pleasant, soft and well-balanced palate with lime and lemon fruit flavours. Reflects the difference in Southern and Northern Tasmanian Riesling in 1997. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, smooth bouquet with sweet, gentle lime aromas and a similarly clean, pleasant, soft and well-balanced palate with lime and lemon fruit flavours. Reflects the difference in Southern and Northern Tasmanian Riesling in 1997.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Moorooduc EstateP JProduced from 2.5 hectares of estate plantings, and made by Dr Richard McIntyre in a very consistent style, which is always strongly influenced by the secondary malolactic fermentation. The resultant nutty/buttery wine tends to stand out even in the background of the Mornington Peninsula, and certainly against other wine styles. R 2-4 yearsS! 1995U Grilled spatchcockX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay Moorooduc Estate $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Moorooduc Estate c[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is in typical Moorooduc-style, with melon, fig and pronounced cashew nut inputs from barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation. The palate is elegant and restrained, with lots of creamy cashew flavours, though not a great deal of fruit richness. Reflects a difficult vintage. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is in typical Moorooduc-style, with melon, fig and pronounced cashew nut inputs from barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation. The palate is elegant and restrained, with lots of creamy cashew flavours, though not a great deal of fruit richness. Reflects a difficult vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 N Moss WoodP As with all the Moss Wood wines, entirely estate-grown and produced from 1.35 hectares of fully mature vines (the first vintage was 1977). Produced in both unoaked and oaked versions, both superb and age-worthy.R 5-12 yearsS0 1995U Crab, lobsterX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Moss Wood Semillon c Moss Wood $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 % Moss Wood [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; voluminous aromas, rich, full and complex introduce a full-bodied, multiflavoured wine with tropical fruit flavours. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; voluminous aromas, rich, full and complex introduce a full-bodied, multiflavoured wine with tropical fruit flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 First made in 1996, produced from vines grown on the typical stony river bed soils of the Wairau Valley. Conventionally made by cold fermentation in stainless steel. The 97 won a gold medal at the 1997 Air New Zealand Wine Awards, and thoroughly deserved that success. Eggplant terrineX 4640Y 10/7/98a Marlborough Le Grys Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Le Grys Sauvignon Blanc c Mud House 10/7/98 8/3/98 Mud House/Le Grys [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the fragrant bouquet has a classic mix of gooseberry and mineral fruit, the palate spotlessly clean and correct, with a long, clean aftertaste and excellent balance. Finishes bone dry. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the fragrant bouquet has a classic mix of gooseberry and mineral fruit, the palate spotlessly clean and correct, with a long, clean aftertaste and excellent balance. Finishes bone dry.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 N Moss WoodP LFirst made in 1973, and has established itself as one of the classic wine styles not only of the Margaret River, but of Australia. The wines have a distinctive suppleness and softness which sets them apart from other Margaret River Cabernets, and which Dr John Gladstones firmly attributes to the particular terroir of the vineyard. 7-15 yearsS+ 1994U Beef with olivesX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon c Moss Wood $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 % Moss Wood [5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full purple-red; a smooth gently sweet-textured bouquet with that very special character of Moss Wood, a particular softness which is quite unique. The palate is in precisely the same mould, with soft, luscious mouthfilling blackcurrant and dark chocolate fruit flavours with perfectly integrated and balanced sweet oak. The tannins, likewise, are extraordinarily supple and fine. RATING: 96 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full purple-red; a smooth gently sweet-textured bouquet with that very special character of Moss Wood, a particular softness which is quite unique. The palate is in precisely the same mould, with soft, luscious mouthfilling blackcurrant and dark chocolate fruit flavours with perfectly integrated and balanced sweet oak. The tannins, likewise, are extraordinarily supple and fine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">96 Mount HorrocksP 14.50 qMount Horrocks was originally the wine-production end of the Ackland Brothers extensive vineyard holdings. The two have now effectively been split, and Mount Horrocks is dependent on contract-grown grapes through the Watervale region. Sourced from two growers in the Watervale subdistrict of the Clare Valley who continue to both hand-prune and hand-pick their vines. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Fresh seafoodX 14/7/98 Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) M Watervale Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _!Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling Mount Horrocks $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Mount Horrocks o[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a riotous bouquet with powerful fruit and some degree of faintly medicinal lift. The palate has masses and masses of flavour, flooding the mouth with sweet citrussy fruit, yet remaining well balanced. Trophy winner at the 1997 Clare Valley Wine Show, and has drawn hyperbolic praise from various critics. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a riotous bouquet with powerful fruit and some degree of faintly medicinal lift. The palate has masses and masses of flavour, flooding the mouth with sweet citrussy fruit, yet remaining well balanced. Trophy winner at the 1997 Clare Valley Wine Show, and has drawn hyperbolic praise from various critics. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Mount HorrocksP The term cordon cut describes a wine made from grapes which have reached high sugar levels as the result of the canes being severed from the trunk of the vine, and being allowed to hang on the trellis with the leaves and grapes attached. A process of dehydration follows, involving the loss of water but the increase in sugar and acid levels. The one thing missing is the complexity which the botrytis mould (the alternative way of achieving similar levels of dehydration) bestows. The wine, in cidentally, is made from unspecified varieties. The 97 was a trophy winner for Best Sweet White Wine at the 1997 Clare Valley Wine Show. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Fresh fruit tartX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Cordon Cut Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia _"Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling Mount Horrocks $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Mount Horrocks #[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a quite intense bouquet with a mix of peach, lime and apricot aromas is followed by a palate with similar flavours, but which is a fraction simple, lacking as it does the bite invested by botrytis. Nicely balanced, easy drinking. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a quite intense bouquet with a mix of peach, lime and apricot aromas is followed by a palate with similar flavours, but which is a fraction simple, lacking as it does the bite invested by botrytis. Nicely balanced, easy drinking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Mount HurtleP ;A label change from Sauvignon Blanc to Sauvignon Blanc Semillon seems superfluous, given that the wine is 95% Sauvignon Blanc and only 5% Semillon, sourced from various regions across Southeast Australia. Made in an unwooded-style, the wine is direct, bright and fresh, directly aimed at the brasserie/caf market. R Drink nowS 1996U CalamariX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _%Mount Hurtle Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Mount Hurtle e under $10 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Mount Hurtle [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a light and fresh bouquet with some floral fruit lift; lemony with a hint of fruit spice. A pleasantly light-bodied wine, crisp and clean, and which won't frighten the horses. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a light and fresh bouquet with some floral fruit lift; lemony with a hint of fruit spice. A pleasantly light-bodied wine, crisp and clean, and which won't frighten the horses.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Another good, estate-grown wine from Mount Langi Ghiran, perhaps lacking the sheer brilliance of the Shiraz, but that is hardly surprising.R 5+ yearsS 1994U Moroccan lambX 14/7/98` CS MTa Grampiansb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Langi Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Langi Cabernet Merlot Mount Langi Ghiran Vineyards $26-50 Great Western t late note 14/7/98 Mount Langi Ghiran Vineyards [3wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; lots of tangy foresty fruit aromas on the bouquet are repeated on the palate, but rather green tannins on the finish detract. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; lots of tangy foresty fruit aromas on the bouquet are repeated on the palate, but rather green tannins on the finish detract.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 19.90 eOne of the top half-dozen Shirazes in Australia. The site climate of the Mount Langi Ghiran vineyards produces wines which have tremendous depth and complexity: there are pepper and spice notes, but there are also all of the lush ripe fruit flavours running from cherry to liquorice which a top Rh ne Valley maker would immediately recognise and appreciate. 4-10+ yearsS! 1994U Kangaroo, venisonX 14/7/98` SHa Grampiansb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Langi Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Langi Shiraz Mount Langi Ghiran Vineyards $16-20 Great Western t late note 14/7/98 Mount Langi Ghiran Vineyards ][5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a classic Langi bouquet with Rh ne-like game, spice and liquorice aromas of medium intensity; subtle oak. An absolutely delicious wine on the palate, with all of the foregoing flavours, smooth and supple, with soft tannins on the finish. Not a heavyweight, but it doesn't need to be. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a classic Langi bouquet with Rh ne-like game, spice and liquorice aromas of medium intensity; subtle oak. An absolutely delicious wine on the palate, with all of the foregoing flavours, smooth and supple, with soft tannins on the finish. Not a heavyweight, but it doesn't need to be.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 MurrindindiP JThe original plantings of 2.5 hectares of chardonnay have been dramatically extended in the mid-1990s with an additional 12 hectares, attesting to the suitability of the climate for this variety. Both in 1993 and 1995 the grapes reached 13 baum , notwithstanding vintage conditions which in southern Victoria were far from ideal. R 3-4 yearsS 1994U MusselsX 14/7/98` Central Victorian High Countryb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Murrindindi Chardonnay Murrindindi $21-25 check either Goulburn or High Country 14/7/98 Murrindindi 4[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet showing both barrel ferment and malolactic ferment influences on attractive cashew and fig fruit. The palate shows similar flavours, with cashew almost into tobacco, characters, yet subtle and harmonious; good balance and flavour. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet showing both barrel ferment and malolactic ferment influences on attractive cashew and fig fruit. The palate shows similar flavours, with cashew almost into tobacco, characters, yet subtle and harmonious; good balance and flavour.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 MurrindindiP A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, which in 1992 and 1993 produced wines which belied the cool climate, but not so much in 1994.R 4-7 yearsS 1993U Rib of beefX 14/7/98` CS MT CFa Central Victorian High Country 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernets Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Murrindindi Cabernets Merlot Murrindindi $21-25 check either Goulburn or High Country 14/7/98 Murrindindi [3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; a quite fragrant and clean bouquet with gentle cedar and blackcurrant aromas is followed by a firm palate with flavours in the leaf, mint and cedar spectrum. Slightly green overall. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a quite fragrant and clean bouquet with gentle cedar and blackcurrant aromas is followed by a firm palate with flavours in the leaf, mint and cedar spectrum. Slightly green overall.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 NormansP Although the Chais Clarendon label is strictly a brand, the majority of the grapes for the wines under the label does come from the Clarendon district at the southern end of the Adelaide Hills. Normans has a 6.6-hectare vineyard here which produces fruit of high quality. R 5-8 yearsS! 1995U Shoulder of lambX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Chais Clarendon Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Normans Chais Clarendon Shiraz Normans $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Normans OakridgeP A solid wine, not in the class of the Reserve, but then why should it be. Barrel-fermented in a mix of French and American oak, and given the usual winemaking treatment for quality Chardonnay.R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Sweet and sour porkX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Oakridge Chardonnay Oakridge Estate $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Oakridge Estate P[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; both bottle development and barrel-ferment characters make their mark on a rich, complex and tangy bouquet after which the short palate comes as a minor disappointment. Certainly there is full peach and citrus fruit there on entry, but the finish is somewhat abrupt. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; both bottle development and barrel-ferment characters make their mark on a rich, complex and tangy bouquet after which the short palate comes as a minor disappointment. Certainly there is full peach and citrus fruit there on entry, but the finish is somewhat abrupt.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 OrlandoP 12.95 YProduced from grapes grown on Orlando s St Helga Vineyard in the Eden Valley and first made in 1980. That initial release was not put on to the market until it was four years old, and was initially priced as a premium product. It is now conventionally marketed in the year of production, and in real terms the price has come down significantly. R Drink nowS 1996U Asian cuisineX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) St Helga Eden Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _%Orlando St Helga Eden Valley Riesling Orlando $11-15 Eden Valley 14/7/98 Orlando [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium green-yellow; at the end of 1997 starting to show the classic bottle development that it promised as a young wine, and will improve even more from here. Ultra-classic lime, toast and kerosene aromas and flavours on a perfectly structured and balanced palate. An extremely distinguished wine at the price, and deservedly a top gold medal winner at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; at the end of 1997 starting to show the classic bottle development that it promised as a young wine, and will improve even more from here. Ultra-classic lime, toast and kerosene aromas and flavours on a perfectly structured and balanced palate. An extremely distinguished wine at the price, and deservedly a top gold medal winner at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"BembB o">92 Orlando 28.95Q When first released around 1980, a benchmark, but which seemed to loose its way in a competitive field. Once again, resurgent, and a particularly good outcome for 1994.R 3-5 yearsS 1992U Mixed grillX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _"Orlando St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon Orlando $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Orlando L[4wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; a smooth and moderately intense bouquet has pleasantly ripe and sweet blackcurrant and chocolate fruit leading the way; the palate shows similarly attractive chocolate and blackberry fruit, with well-balanced oak in a support role. The structure, too, is well above average. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a smooth and moderately intense bouquet has pleasantly ripe and sweet blackcurrant and chocolate fruit leading the way; the palate shows similarly attractive chocolate and blackberry fruit, with well-balanced oak in a support role. The structure, too, is well above average.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 OrlandoP 15.95 eFirst released in 1991, and continuing the move towards rather tighter and more concentrated fruit in the Orlando red wines. It is made entirely from Coonawarra grapes, a blend of approximately 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Shiraz and 5% Merlot. The wine is matured in a mixture of new and used French and American oak hogsheads for between 12 and 18 months. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Hot, honey-glazed hamX 14/7/98` CS SH MTa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Russet Ridge Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _6Orlando Russet Ridge Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Orlando $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Orlando [3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet has a mix of cedary/briary/leafy aromas which are neither intense nor rich. There are some dusty, chocolatey, berry and leaf flavours on the palate; a fair commercial wine, but not one to set the pulse racing. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet has a mix of cedary/briary/leafy aromas which are neither intense nor rich. There are some dusty, chocolatey, berry and leaf flavours on the palate; a fair commercial wine, but not one to set the pulse racing.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 OrlandoP 49.95 Named after a nineteenth-century pioneer surveyor, Robert Lawson. It is matured for two years in new Nevers oak hogsheads, with further bottle maturation before release. This expansive oak input made its mark on the wine: the regular shower of gold and silver medals that descend on the wine shows that many judges did not regard the input as excessive. I have to admit that the vintages of the 1990s seem to me to be getting better and better, particularly so far as the oak regime is concerneB R 4-7 yearsS 1991U Beef stroganoffX 14/7/98` SHa Padthawayb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Lawson s Padthaway Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _!Orlando Lawson s Padthaway Shiraz Orlando (Padthaway) $26-50 r Padthaway 14/7/98 Orlando [4.5wine glasses] 1994 Strong red-purple; a rich, concentrated and powerful bouquet with plum, cherry and mint fruit; well-balanced subtle oak. The palate is still firm and youthful, with dark chocolate, mint and cherry fruit. Loaded with development potential. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; a rich, concentrated and powerful bouquet with plum, cherry and mint fruit; well-balanced subtle oak. The palate is still firm and youthful, with dark chocolate, mint and cherry fruit. Loaded with development potential.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 OrlandoP 49.95 A Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon which has been the red wine flagship for Orlando, sitting alongside Lawson's Shiraz. As with Lawson's, the American oak treatment has seemed rather heavy-handed, but good things are happening at Orlando, and recent vintages are much improved. Usually ready upon release 1991U Grilled beefX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Jacaranda Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _*Orlando Jacaranda Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Orlando $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Orlando $[4wine glasses] 1994 Full red-purple; the bouquet is rich, with lots of vanilla oak in typical Orlando-style, but there is plenty of earthy black fruit character there in support. A chewy palate with blackberry, chocolate and oaky flavours interwoven in a complex structure. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; the bouquet is rich, with lots of vanilla oak in typical Orlando-style, but there is plenty of earthy black fruit character there in support. A chewy palate with blackberry, chocolate and oaky flavours interwoven in a complex structure.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 PalmaraP 17.50 FProduced from 2 hectares of estate vineyards, with part of the grapes going to contract winemaker Andrew Hood. Performs as many of the pinots from the Coal River/Richmond region do, with considerable flavour intensity, varying to plum in the riper years. The 96 bobbed up with a bronze medal at the 1998 Tasmanian Wines Show. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Saddle of hareX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Palmara Pinot Noir Palmara $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Palmara [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; the bouquet is youthful, but relatively simple, and gives a hint of the slightly cooked fruit characters which appear on the palate. A wine which Bob Campbell MW, the New Zealand judge at the show, quite liked. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is youthful, but relatively simple, and gives a hint of the slightly cooked fruit characters which appear on the palate. A wine which Bob Campbell MW, the New Zealand judge at the show, quite liked.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Parker Coonawarra EstateP Notwithstanding the very pretentious label, this wine is always far superior to the second Cabernet, and an excellent example of super-premium Coonawarra Cabernet. After the hiatus in production, and the change in winemaking teams, the 96 rejoins the field with even more style and certainly more elegance than its predecessors. More sensitive oak handling is particularly commendable. 10-15 yearsS 1993U Prime rib of beefX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red First Growth Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _8Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth Cabernet Sauvignon Parker Coonawarra Estate Coonawarra 14/7/98 Parker Coonawarra Estate $[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; ripe cassis/blackberry fruit with most attractive cedary oak in a support role is followed by an elegant yet flavoursome palate which shows pristine cassis/blackberry fruit, fine tannins and well-balanced and integrated oak. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; ripe cassis/blackberry fruit with most attractive cedary oak in a support role is followed by an elegant yet flavoursome palate which shows pristine cassis/blackberry fruit, fine tannins and well-balanced and integrated oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 PattersonsP 1Planting of the vineyard commenced in the early 1980s, and the first Chardonnay was made in 1986. It is consistently the best of the Pattersons wines, developing very well with age into a rich, full-blown style. Typically released with two years bottle age, the unwooded version in the year of its making. 5+ yearsS 1994U Roast porkX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Pattersons Chardonnay Pattersons $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Pattersons [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium straw-yellow; the bouquet shows quite pronounced spicy/charry oak which is also quite evident on the very ripe fruit of the palate. Here the flavours run through peach to more nutty/mealy characters, attesting to the 14 degrees alcohol. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium straw-yellow; the bouquet shows quite pronounced spicy/charry oak which is also quite evident on the very ripe fruit of the palate. Here the flavours run through peach to more nutty/mealy characters, attesting to the 14 degrees alcohol.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Paul ContiP PPaul Conti developed the Carabooda Vineyard in the early 1980s, selecting the site for its unique sand over limestone soil, and close proximity to the Indian Ocean which provides cool coastal sea breezes. The 1994 vintage of the wine was a gold medal winner at the Mount Barker Wine Show, narrowly missing out on several major trophies. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U King prawnsX 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) M Carabooda Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Paul Conti Carabooda Chardonnay Paul Conti $16-20 South-west Coastal Plain 14/7/98 Paul Conti [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a subtle and smooth bouquet with melon and cashew aromas is followed by a gentle, smooth palate, again showing melon and touches of cashew. Sensitive oak handling throughout. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a subtle and smooth bouquet with melon and cashew aromas is followed by a gentle, smooth palate, again showing melon and touches of cashew. Sensitive oak handling throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Paul ContiP Made from vines planted in the Mariginiup Vineyard in 1958, which have produced many fine vintages over the years stretching back into the 1960s. The style is not elaborate but does age well attested to by the fact that the wine is sold with between two to three years bottle age. R 5-8 yearsS 1994U Osso bucoX 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Mariginiup Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Paul Conti Mariginiup Shiraz Paul Conti $16-20 South-west Coastal Plain 14/7/98 Paul Conti [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet provides an interesting mix of spice, herbs, cherry and plum. The palate is quite powerful and youthful with cherry and mint flavours, but slightly green edges which may soften with further bottle age. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet provides an interesting mix of spice, herbs, cherry and plum. The palate is quite powerful and youthful with cherry and mint flavours, but slightly green edges which may soften with further bottle age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Peter LehmannP The blood brother, as it were, to the Peter Lehmann Riesling. A traditional Barossa-style as honest as the day is long, but also reflecting the multitude of vineyard sources available to Peter Lehmann through his long association with the Valley. R Each way - up to 5 yearsS 1994U Spiced Barossa sausageX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red The Barossa Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _ Peter Lehmann The Barossa Shiraz Peter Lehmann $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Peter Lehmann A[3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with a light touch of American oak and somewhat light fruit. The palate is unashamedly commercial, with slightly resinous oak, and not as much fruit as one would hope for. Retasted September 1997 with oak dominating the fruit. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with a light touch of American oak and somewhat light fruit. The palate is unashamedly commercial, with slightly resinous oak, and not as much fruit as one would hope for. Retasted September 1997 with oak dominating the fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Peter LehmannP GA blend of Barossa-grown Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, spiced with the American oak which is so much part of the Peter Lehmann style. Right from the outset, an unqualified success in the marketplace simply because it represents such good value for money, and because it is ready to drink when released. R Drink nowS 1994U Pasta with tomato or meat sauceX 14/7/98` SH CS CF MTa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M Clancy Shiraz Blends Z Australia Peter Lehmann Clancy Peter Lehmann $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Peter Lehmann [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is exactly as one would expect it to be, full and scented with dark berry fruits surrounded by solid American oak. The palate is a mix of high-toned juicy minty berry fruit and vanillin oak. Works very well. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is exactly as one would expect it to be, full and scented with dark berry fruits surrounded by solid American oak. The palate is a mix of high-toned juicy minty berry fruit and vanillin oak. Works very well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Peter LehmannP This wine is based predominantly on Cabernet Sauvignon, blended in varying proportions with Malbec, Merlot and Shiraz which fluctuate from year to year. Fermentation is finished in barrel and then matured for a further two and a half years in French and American oak hogsheads prior to bottling. Incidentally, Mentor is the new label for what was previously styled Cellar Collection Cabernet Blend R 5-8 yearsS 1992U Spiced beefX 14/7/98` CS MA MT SHa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Mentor Cabernet Blends Z Australia Peter Lehmann Mentor Peter Lehmann $21-25 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Peter Lehmann .[4.5wine glasses] 1994 Dense red-purple; an extremely ripe and rich bouquet with cassis, chocolate and mint fruit aromas and pleasantly subdued American oak heralds a quite excellent wine on the palate, with lots of character and ripe fruit flavours, lingering tannins and subtle oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; an extremely ripe and rich bouquet with cassis, chocolate and mint fruit aromas and pleasantly subdued American oak heralds a quite excellent wine on the palate, with lots of character and ripe fruit flavours, lingering tannins and subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Peter LehmannP The wine is made solely from low-yielding old vineyards of the Stonewell, Ebenezer and Moppa subdistricts of the Barossa Valley. The fermentation is finished in new American oak, in which it is then matured for two years prior to bottling. It is then given three years bottle age before release. The wine has a supremely illustrious show record, with many major trophies to its credit. Up to 15 yearsS 1994U Kangaroo filletX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M Stonewell Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz Peter Lehmann $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Peter Lehmann *[4.5wine glasses] 1993 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is rich and complex with abundant ripe fruit and lots of vanilla oak. The same play occurs on the palate, with rich, ripe cherry and raspberry fruit laden with sweet vanilla oak, and finishing with soft, chewy tannins. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1993 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is rich and complex with abundant ripe fruit and lots of vanilla oak. The same play occurs on the palate, with rich, ripe cherry and raspberry fruit laden with sweet vanilla oak, and finishing with soft, chewy tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 PierroP 44.70 One of the most distinguished of a band of striking wines from the Margaret River region and which achieved great acclaim during the second half of the 1980s. The style is invariably complex, concentrated and powerful, with the emphasis on secondary rather than primary fruit characters. R 2-5 yearsS& 1995U Seafood pastaX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Pierro Chardonnay Pierro $26-50 Margaret River t late note 14/7/98 Pierro [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a smooth and rounded, yet complex bouquet with a seamless marriage of fruit and oak. The palate is similarly perfectly modulated and rounded, with the sweet fig and melon fruit woven through with creamy/nutty/toasty inputs from barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation influences. The alcohol does catch you ever so slightly on the finish, not surprising at 14.5 . RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a smooth and rounded, yet complex bouquet with a seamless marriage of fruit and oak. The palate is similarly perfectly modulated and rounded, with the sweet fig and melon fruit woven through with creamy/nutty/toasty inputs from barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation influences. The alcohol does catch you ever so slightly on the finish, not surprising at 14.5 .<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo"B PierroP 22.90 QMade from relatively low-yielding estate-grown grapes, and originally marketed under the Les Trois Cuv label, now abbreviated to LTC, which (coincidentally) can also stand for a little touch of Chardonnay . The wine tastes as if it may have been wholly or partially barrel-fermented, though no mention of this is made on the label. R 2-4 yearsS 1996U Veal cutletsX 14/7/98` SE SAa Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Pierro Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Pierro $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Pierro W[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a delicate but multifaceted bouquet including a touch of spice suggesting the Chardonnay component may have been barrel-fermented. The palate is complex, and richer and fuller than the bouquet suggests, with pronounced fruit sweetness on the mid-palate and attractive echoes of oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a delicate but multifaceted bouquet including a touch of spice suggesting the Chardonnay component may have been barrel-fermented. The palate is complex, and richer and fuller than the bouquet suggests, with pronounced fruit sweetness on the mid-palate and attractive echoes of oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 PikesP Produced from a little over 3.5 hectares of estate-grown Riesling. In the mainstream of Clare Valley-style, crisp, lively and zesty when young, and developing considerable character with bottle age. R 3-7 yearsS 1996U AsparagusX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Pikes Riesling Pikes $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Pikes [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; sweet, ripe tropical/pineapple fruit aromas in full style are echoed in the ultra-rich, full and broad palate. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; sweet, ripe tropical/pineapple fruit aromas in full style are echoed in the ultra-rich, full and broad palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Pipers BrookP 21.10 First made in 1979. The 3 hectares of riesling at the home Pipers Brook Vineyard are situated on the favourable north- and northeast-facing aspects, and are now approaching 20 years of age. The wine is excellent, and invariably develops well with prolonged cellaring. Up to 10 yearsS 1995U Lemon chicken saladX 14/7/98` Northern Tasmaniab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked)f Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Pipers Brook Riesling Pipers Brook Vineyard $21-25 Northern Tasmania t late note 14/7/98 Pipers Brook Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a crisp, aromatic bouquet with a mix of herb, lime blossom and orange peel aromas is followed by a pungent palate with green lime flavours and high acidity. Aggressive now, but should mellow with time. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a crisp, aromatic bouquet with a mix of herb, lime blossom and orange peel aromas is followed by a pungent palate with green lime flavours and high acidity. Aggressive now, but should mellow with time.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Pipers BrookP 26.40 First made in 1981 (a bucketful of remarkable wine) but changed its name to Pellion only in 1992. Pellion was an artist on one of the very early voyages of discovery to Tasmania, hence the name; notwithstanding the absence of any varietal claim on the label, the wine is in fact 100% Pinot Noir. Winemaker Andrew Pirie says, the expression of this grape in the red soils and climate of the region is so individual that we do not think we should be constrained by names which lead to preconceivB&ed ideas as to the taste of the wine R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Ripe King Island brieX 14/7/98` Northern Tasmaniab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pellion Pinot Noir Z Australia Pipers Brook Pellion Pipers Brook Vineyard $26-50 Northern Tasmania t late note 14/7/98 Pipers Brook Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; there are a range of aromas, with a mix of tobacco leaf, stem, forest floor, spice and cherry which lead into a penetrating, sappy/stemmy/foresty palate. Acidity lengthens the finish; at the far end of the style spectrum. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; there are a range of aromas, with a mix of tobacco leaf, stem, forest floor, spice and cherry which lead into a penetrating, sappy/stemmy/foresty palate. Acidity lengthens the finish; at the far end of the style spectrum.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Pipers BrookP 17.80 eNinth Island is the new name for the previous Tasmania Wine Company second label, which suffered from obvious problems of anonymity. Ninth Island derives its name from the Bass Strait island which lies just off the coast of northern Tasmania adjacent to the Pipers Brook region. The wine is made from both estate and contract-grown grapes, and is unwooded. R 3-6 yearsS 1995U Crab, shellfishX 14/7/98` Northern Tasmaniab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Ninth Island Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Pipers Brook Ninth Island Chardonnay Pipers Brook Vineyard $16-20 Northern Tasmania t late note 14/7/98 Pipers Brook Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium green-yellow; a crisp, clean bouquet with a mix of mineral, herb and mint aromas. A refreshing, cool-grown style, with lively, zesty lemony overtones to the crisp fruit on the palate. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; a crisp, clean bouquet with a mix of mineral, herb and mint aromas. A refreshing, cool-grown style, with lively, zesty lemony overtones to the crisp fruit on the palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 PirramimmaP Pirramimma now has over 66 hectares of chardonnay in production, much of it contracted to major Australian wine producers. That produced under the Pirramimma label relies primarily on its fruit, with minimal oak influence a style which in today s market is proving increasingly popular. An absolute bargain at the price; the 94 was excellent, the 95 (a gold medal winner at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show) every bit as good. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U CalamariX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Pirramimma Chardonnay Pirramimma $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Pirramimma [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fruit-driven with tangy citrus and melon aromas, the palate with more of those sweet melon flavours, and a faint touch of cashew; all in all, a wine with a lot of fruit character. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fruit-driven with tangy citrus and melon aromas, the palate with more of those sweet melon flavours, and a faint touch of cashew; all in all, a wine with a lot of fruit character.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 PlantagenetP The Omrah Chardonnay was one of the first unwooded Chardonnays to catch the eye of the public and wine-writers alike. Initially sourced from the Omrah Vineyard, but is in fact a registered brand of Plantagenet, the Omrah Vineyard now having been purchased by BRL Hardy. Thus the fruit source has changed significantly; part of the fruit is still purchased from Hardys ex the Omrah Vineyard. Short term 1-3 yearsS 1996U ScampiX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Omrah Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Plantagenet Omrah Chardonnay Plantagenet $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Plantagenet C[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; while of only light to medium intensity, the bouquet is quite fragrant, with nuances of grapefruit, melon, passionfruit and more mineral character. The pleasant palate shows all of the characters evident on the bouquet, albeit in a relatively light-bodied style. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; while of only light to medium intensity, the bouquet is quite fragrant, with nuances of grapefruit, melon, passionfruit and more mineral character. The pleasant palate shows all of the characters evident on the bouquet, albeit in a relatively light-bodied style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 PlantagenetP 14.50 aDraws upon 6.2 hectares of estate vineyards, all of which are now fully mature, and which (along with a similar amount of Cabernet Sauvignon) constitute the major estate plantings. First made in 1975, one of the flagships not only for Plantagenet but for the region as a whole. The 1995 was the top-pointed gold medal at the 1995 Mount Barker Wine Show. 3-10 yearsS! 1996U Most Asian dishesX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Plantagenet Riesling Plantagenet $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Plantagenet [4wine glasses] 1997 Light straw-green; a fresh, floral passionfruit and citrus bouquet is followed by a wine with abundant lime and passionfruit flavour, yet which retains elegance. Distinct regional style which you either like or dislike. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light straw-green; a fresh, floral passionfruit and citrus bouquet is followed by a wine with abundant lime and passionfruit flavour, yet which retains elegance. Distinct regional style which you either like or dislike.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 PlantagenetP 26.50 First made in 1974 (in fact at Sandalford in the Swan Valley) and has established itself as one of the West Australian classics over the intervening years. While primarily based upon estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot have all contributed to the wine over the last decade, with the core of the wine coming from the Plantagenet Bouverie Vineyard at Denbarker. The 94 was the gold medal winner at the 1996 Perth/Sheraton Wine Show. 10+ years for the best vintagesS! 1994U Rack of lambX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Red 5 Full-bodied dry redf Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Plantagenet Cabernet Sauvignon Plantagenet $26-50 Great Southern t late note 14/7/98 Plantagenet 2[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium purple-red; there is quite pronounced vanillin oak on the bouquet, with soft chocolatey/earthy fruit to follow. However, on the palate, sweet cassis and currant fruit is more evident than the bouquet suggests, finishing with delicate tannins and cedary oak. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; there is quite pronounced vanillin oak on the bouquet, with soft chocolatey/earthy fruit to follow. However, on the palate, sweet cassis and currant fruit is more evident than the bouquet suggests, finishing with delicate tannins and cedary oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 PlunkettP The Plunketts have established over 40 hectares of vineyards at an elevation of around 550 metres in the Strathbogie Ranges. These have come from an initial 1-hectare planting of 25 varieties in 1968, the ultimate in experimentation. Not surprisingly, Chardonnay has emerged as one of the principal varieties on the property. Fifty per cent of the wine is barrel-fermented. The 95 wine was singularly impressive, the 96 less so, mainly because of the oak. R Drink nowS 1995U Smoked turkeyX 14/7/98` Central Victorian High Countryb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Strathbogie Ranges Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Plunkett Strathbogie Ranges Chardonnay Plunkett $16-20 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Plunkett [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow; toasty vanillin oak, apparently American, dominates both the bouquet and the palate, and cloys somewhat on the finish. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow; toasty vanillin oak, apparently American, dominates both the bouquet and the palate, and cloys somewhat on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 PlunkettP 12.95 The commercial sauvignon blanc planting dates back to 1980, no doubt reflecting the success of the variety in the trial plantings and the cool climate. The wine shows the herbal characters one would expect a little less sweetness on the finish would make it an even better wine. R Drink nowS 1996U MusselsX 14/7/98` SB SEa Central Victorian High Countryb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Blackwood Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _1Plunkett Blackwood Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Plunkett $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Plunkett [2.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a crisp but light bouquet with faint mineral/herbal notes leads on to a palate which does not show much varietal definition and is very light. No winemaking fault; shortcomings seem to lie in the vineyard. RATING: 74 @BM bold:XXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a crisp but light bouquet with faint mineral/herbal notes leads on to a palate which does not show much varietal definition and is very light. No winemaking fault; shortcomings seem to lie in the vineyard.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">74 Port Phillip EstateP Produced from a little over 1 hectare of chardonnay planted in 1988. High natural acidity often forces Mornington Peninsula winemakers to rely on the malolactic fermentation to a considerable degree, and not always to the benefit of the wines. One of the attractions of this wine is that the malolactic characters are not overdone. The 96 is the best yet, apparently reflecting low yield. R 2-3 yearsS 1994, 1995U Lobster, shellfishX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Port Phillip Estate Chardonnay Port Phillip Estate $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Port Phillip Estate g[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a wine with abundant character throughout, commencing with stylish fruit supported by strong toasty oak on the bouquet, and a quite striking palate: while having strong toasty/oaky characters, there is lovely melon and cashew fruit and equally good acidity on the finish. While big, doesn't cloy. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a wine with abundant character throughout, commencing with stylish fruit supported by strong toasty oak on the bouquet, and a quite striking palate: while having strong toasty/oaky characters, there is lovely melon and cashew fruit and equally good acidity on the finish. While big, doesn't cloy.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Primo EstateP Joe Grilli has always been able to conjure something quite magical from the 4.5 hectares of estate plantings of colombard. The variety is known for its capacity to hold its natural acidity in hot climates (and the Adelaide Plains are hot) but no one else seems to be able to invest the wine with the fruit freshness and crispness almost Sauvignon Blanc-like achieved by Joe Grilli. Emphatically drink nowS 1996U Oysters, shellfishX 14/7/98` Adelaide Plainsb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) N Colombard White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Primo Estate Colombard Primo Estate $11-15 Adelaide Plains 14/7/98 Primo Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium green-yellow; the bouquet has that extra edge of vinosity which Primo Estate so often achieves; the citrus-accented palate is lively, fresh and crisp, again showing something extra on the mid palate, before finishing pleasantly dry. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; the bouquet has that extra edge of vinosity which Primo Estate so often achieves; the citrus-accented palate is lively, fresh and crisp, again showing something extra on the mid palate, before finishing pleasantly dry.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Primo EstateP Although the front label does not make reference to it, the back label says moda amarone a modest claim which has brought the wrath of the Italians down on the head of Joe Grilli, and his promise to desist from using it. The wine does in fact use the amarone methods of partially drying the red grapes before fermentation. The blend varies between Coonawarra and McLaren Vale according to the vintage. Up to 15 yearsS& 1994U Bistecca FiorentinaX 14/7/98` CS MTa Adelaide Plainsb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Joseph Moda Amarone Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _0Primo Estate Joseph Moda Amarone Cabernet Merlot Primo Estate $26-50 Adelaide Plains 14/7/98 Primo Estate =[5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; as always, superbly crafted, with a seamless marriage between fruit and cedary oak. The palate is concentrated with cassis/blackcurrant fruit supported by fine-grained but obvious tannins throughout. A wine which magically combines finesse with power. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; as always, superbly crafted, with a seamless marriage between fruit and cedary oak. The palate is concentrated with cassis/blackcurrant fruit supported by fine-grained but obvious tannins throughout. A wine which magically combines finesse with power.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 RedmanP XFirst released in 1966, the wine of that year, 1969 and 1970 all being very good, and still showing well. Those wines were made from the Arthur Hoffman Block, planted around the turn of the century; a number of things happened thereafter which led to a distinctly more diffuse style. There have been intermittent signs of a recovery since 1990. 5-15 yearsS 1994U PastaX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Redman Shiraz Redman $11-15 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Redman X[3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a youthful and potent bouquet with earthy Shiraz and subtle oak announces a similarly callow, youthful and somewhat aggressive palate; a strange wine, atypical for the Redman-style which is usually much blander. Tasted shortly after bottling, and may well surprise with some bottle age. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a youthful and potent bouquet with earthy Shiraz and subtle oak announces a similarly callow, youthful and somewhat aggressive palate; a strange wine, atypical for the Redman-style which is usually much blander. Tasted shortly after bottling, and may well surprise with some bottle age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 RedmanP yThe first three vintages of this wine, made in the 70 to 72 vintages, respectively, and released in magnum, were landmarks at the time. As with the Claret, quality slipped, but is now on the rebound, with the 93 a reversion to top form, winning a gold medal and trophy at the 1994 Royal Sydney Wine Show. The succeeding vintages are creditable efforts, but not outstanding. 5-15 yearsS 1994U Stuffed capsicumX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Redman Cabernet Sauvignon Redman $21-25 Coonawarra Changed 14/7/98 Redman K[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red, with a touch of purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with some red berry fruit, a hint of earth and barely perceptible oak. The palate is youthful, with quite a deal of powerful earthy/berry fruit, but, like the Shiraz, is a departure in style for Redman, time will tell. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red, with a touch of purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with some red berry fruit, a hint of earth and barely perceptible oak. The palate is youthful, with quite a deal of powerful earthy/berry fruit, but, like the Shiraz, is a departure in style for Redman, time will tell.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Richard HamiltonP 17.95 QhThe original vines of the Hut Block were planted by Richard Hamilton s father, Burton Hamilton, in 1947.R 5-8 yearsS 1995U Beef Proven 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M Hut Block Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _-Richard Hamilton Hut Block Cabernet Sauvignon Richard Hamilton $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Richard Hamilton [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; strong berry and earth fruit drives the bouquet, and similarly concentrated rich and juicy berry fruit dominates the palate. Seems slightly underworked. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; strong berry and earth fruit drives the bouquet, and similarly concentrated rich and juicy berry fruit dominates the palate. Seems slightly underworked.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Richard HamiltonP 29.95 IAs the name suggests, the wine is made from vines dating back more than a century, located at the southern fringe of McLaren Vale. First made in 1990, with a minor label change in 1996 through the addition of the word Reserve . A wine which varies in weight and style according to the vintage, but is seldom less than very good. R 2-7 yearsS 1995U Casserole of venisonX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M Hamilton Ewell Reserve Old Vines Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _8Richard Hamilton Hamilton Ewell Reserve Old Vines Shiraz Richard Hamilton $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Richard Hamilton [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Strong purple-red; the bouquet is complex, with ripe earthy, berry fruits supported by positive oak. An enormously powerful, rich and concentrated wine on the palate, with briary/dark berry fruit and formidable tannins. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong purple-red; the bouquet is complex, with ripe earthy, berry fruits supported by positive oak. An enormously powerful, rich and concentrated wine on the palate, with briary/dark berry fruit and formidable tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Richmond GroveP 12.95Q With John Vickery s vast experience and impeccable contacts, it is not surprising that Richmond Grove Rieslings should be as exceptionally good as they are.R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Asparagus with hollandaise sauceX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked)f M Watervale Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _!Richmond Grove Watervale Riesling Richmond Grove $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Richmond Grove ][5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a spotlessly clean and powerful bouquet with predominantly citrus/lime fruit, and just a hint of tropical sweetness. The palate unfolds progressively, with a steely core around which pristine varietal fruit flavours are folded. Has all the indications of becoming a great classic. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a spotlessly clean and powerful bouquet with predominantly citrus/lime fruit, and just a hint of tropical sweetness. The palate unfolds progressively, with a steely core around which pristine varietal fruit flavours are folded. Has all the indications of becoming a great classic.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 %N RivendellP 12.50QeVerdelho was the first wine released, and has consistently shown good varietal character and flavour.R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Parma ham with figsX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Rivendell Verdelho c Rivendell $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 % Rivendell [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is quite striking, with complex, ripe fruit salad aromas but the palate, while clean and well balanced, lacks the exotic characters of the bouquet. A worthy wine, nonetheless. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is quite striking, with complex, ripe fruit salad aromas but the palate, while clean and well balanced, lacks the exotic characters of the bouquet. A worthy wine, nonetheless.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Robinsons FamilyP There are only 1.2 hectares of shiraz at Robinsons, which seems a pity given the quality of the wine. Like the Shiraz Cabernet, it is predominantly fruit-driven, and should develop well with bottle age.R 5-10 yearsS 1994U Kangaroo filletX 14/7/98` Granite Beltb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Robinsons Family Shiraz Robinsons Family Vineyards $11-15 Granite Belt 14/7/98 Robinsons Family Vineyards 1[2.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; powerfully astringent, earthy raw-cut varietal character on the bouquet is followed by a similarly raw and fairly aggressive palate. The redeeming feature of the wine is the strength of the fruit, and it just may settle down with time in bottle. RATING: 74 @BM bold:XXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; powerfully astringent, earthy raw-cut varietal character on the bouquet is followed by a similarly raw and fairly aggressive palate. The redeeming feature of the wine is the strength of the fruit, and it just may settle down with time in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">74 Robinsons FamilyP ?The Robinsons Family red wines have always been exceptionally full-flavoured, often over-extracted and impossibly tough and tannic. This wine has been designed for early consumption, and was bottled and released early. It has some lovely flavours, but whether it is really ready for early consumption is another matter. R 2-4 yearsS 1993U Beef shashlikX 14/7/98` SH CSa Granite Beltb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia _ Robinsons Family Shiraz Cabernet Robinsons Family Vineyards e under $10 Granite Belt 14/7/98 Robinsons Family Vineyards [3wine glasses] Light to medium red; a distinctly grassy/herbal/leafy bouquet leads into a zesty palate with a range of leaf, spice and mint fruit flavours. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 95 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red; a distinctly grassy/herbal/leafy bouquet leads into a zesty palate with a range of leaf, spice and mint fruit flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 RochfordP Pinot has consistently been the outstanding wine from Rochford, typically exhibiting both complexity and richness of flavour, and helping establish the reputation of the Macedon region as yet another area suited to this fickle variety. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Breast of squabX 14/7/98` Macedonb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Rochford Pinot Noir Rochford $26-50 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 Rochford [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; a very potent bouquet with cherry and plum fruit complexed by stemmy tones. The palate is powerful; forest and stem characters are woven through the intense dark berry fruit on a long finish. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; a very potent bouquet with cherry and plum fruit complexed by stemmy tones. The palate is powerful; forest and stem characters are woven through the intense dark berry fruit on a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Rosemount EstateP 15.50 The only wine in this large so-called premium varietal range to continue to have and claim a Hunter Valley origin, or, to be precise, Upper Hunter origin. The wine is made to throw maximum emphasis on fairly rapid flavour development; part of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation while ageing in French and American oak, while part was tank fermented and held on lees prior to blending. R Drink nowS 1996U Veal parmigianaX 14/7/98` Upper Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Diamond Label Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _)Rosemount Estate Diamond Label Chardonnay c Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) $11-15 Upper Hunter Valley 14/7/98 % Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) 3[3wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green, relatively advanced early in its life. There is ripe, peachy fruit on the fairly full bouquet with a hint of chippy oak. A wine in the commercial mainstream, but without the extraordinary finesse and quality of the Diamond Label red wines. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green, relatively advanced early in its life. There is ripe, peachy fruit on the fairly full bouquet with a hint of chippy oak. A wine in the commercial mainstream, but without the extraordinary finesse and quality of the Diamond Label red wines.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Rosemount EstateP Since the 1993 vintage of this wine, Rosemount has achieved a level of excellence hitherto only consistently achieved by its Shiraz. The regional base varies a little from year to year, but is principally drawn from McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek in South Australia and Mudgee in New South Wales. The wine is fermented warm, given five to seven days extended maceration, and then aged for 12 months in one-year-old and older French and American barriques. R 2-5 years 1995U Rare sirloin steakX 14/7/98` Upper Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Diamond Label Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _1Rosemount Estate Diamond Label Cabernet Sauvignon c Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) $11-15 Upper Hunter Valley 14/7/98 % Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; sweet and clean dark berry fruit is supported by subtle oak on the bouquet; a solidly flavoured wine with blackberry/blackcurrant fruit, harmoniously sweet. Outstanding at its price point. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; sweet and clean dark berry fruit is supported by subtle oak on the bouquet; a solidly flavoured wine with blackberry/blackcurrant fruit, harmoniously sweet. Outstanding at its price point.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Rosemount EstateP A wine which has been largely responsible for the phenomenal success of Rosemount Estate in the United States, winning consistently high points from the world s most influential wine magazine, The Wine Spectator. While Rosemount has never made any secret of the fact that it does subtly alter the balance of the wines according to the market of destination, the quality of this wine throughout the 1990s has been extraordinarily consistent and extraordinarily good. Like the Cabernet SauB vignon, drawn principally from McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek and Mudgee; is aged in American oak for ten months prior to bottling. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Lamb shanksX 14/7/98` Upper Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Diamond Label Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _%Rosemount Estate Diamond Label Shiraz c Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) $11-15 Upper Hunter Valley 14/7/98 % Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) `[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid, clean and rich with a mix of black cherry and blackberry fruit. The palate is round and mouthfilling, with most attractive sweet black cherry and blackberry fruit, finished off with soft tannins and subtle oak. They don't come much better than this at the price. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid, clean and rich with a mix of black cherry and blackberry fruit. The palate is round and mouthfilling, with most attractive sweet black cherry and blackberry fruit, finished off with soft tannins and subtle oak. They don't come much better than this at the price.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Rothbury EstateP gHas appeared under various guises since the first experimental vintage in 1971 (first full commercial 1972). Winemakers have come and gone; labels have changed, recently with increasing rapidity; and, inevitably, quality has wandered all over the place, at times great, at times not. The 97, from a difficult vintage, suggests there is hope for the wine yet. 5-20 yearsS: 1995U Smoked eelX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 White 3c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _&Rothbury Estate Hunter Valley Semillon Rothbury Estate $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Rothbury Estate -[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, showing an attractive lemony citrus aromas to the clearly accented varietal fruit. The palate, like the bouquet, is of medium intensity and weight, but does have good feel on the tongue and grip and power on the finish. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, showing an attractive lemony citrus aromas to the clearly accented varietal fruit. The palate, like the bouquet, is of medium intensity and weight, but does have good feel on the tongue and grip and power on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Rothbury EstateP First made in 1981 (a wine of superb quality which is still drinking magnificently) and which has since become a very important part of the Rothbury portfolio. It draws upon 44 hectares of existing vineyard, much of it mature, but with further plantings projected. The style is always luscious and full-blown, but some vintages have surprised with their capacity to age (witness the 2-10 yearsS 1996U Sugar-cured tunaX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Cowra Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Rothbury Estate Cowra Chardonnay Rothbury Estate $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Rothbury Estate ?[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; scented fruit on the bouquet is woven through spicy American oak, oak which invests the palate with phenolics which catch up with the finish. Won a gold medal at the 1997 Adelaide Wine Show, but, in retrospect, must be considered very lucky to have done so. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; scented fruit on the bouquet is woven through spicy American oak, oak which invests the palate with phenolics which catch up with the finish. Won a gold medal at the 1997 Adelaide Wine Show, but, in retrospect, must be considered very lucky to have done so.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Rouge HommeP Named after one of Coonawarra s pioneer viticulturists, and the first of the Rouge Homme red wines to incorporate Malbec and Merlot together with Cabernet Sauvignon in the manner of a junior brother to Lindemans Pyrus. A Bordeaux-blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc; partial barrel fermentation is followed by maturation in new and used French and American oak for 12 months. The 93 won the Jimmy Watson Trophy at the Melbourne Wine Show in 1994, and the 94 has sloBEwly come out of a fairly lean and austere shell since first released. R 3-4 yearsS 1993U Lamb shanksX 14/7/98` CS MA MTa Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Richardson s Red Block Cabernet Blends Z Australia _"Rouge Homme Richardson s Red Block Rouge Homme $16-20 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Rouge Homme [4wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is firm, with distinctly earthy/briary notes. The palate follows down the same track, with much of the character of a Bordeaux red from a good but not great vintage. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is firm, with distinctly earthy/briary notes. The palate follows down the same track, with much of the character of a Bordeaux red from a good but not great vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 RymillP 19.50QrProduced entirely from estate-grown grapes, and matured in a mix of new and used French and American oak barrels. R 5-8 yearsS 1993U Stuffed eggplantX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Rymill Shiraz Rymill $16-20 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Rymill D[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; a youthful bouquet with exuberant black cherry, liquorice and earth varietal fruit aromas is followed by a bright and powerful palate packed with varietal character in a similar liquorice, cherry and spice spectrum; a somewhat angular finish needs to soften. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a youthful bouquet with exuberant black cherry, liquorice and earth varietal fruit aromas is followed by a bright and powerful palate packed with varietal character in a similar liquorice, cherry and spice spectrum; a somewhat angular finish needs to soften.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 ScarboroughP Produced from 9 hectares of estate plantings, invariably made in a big, rich full-bodied style which has a strong following. Active marketing is barely necessary.R 3-7 yearsS 1994U Rich white meat dishesX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Scarborough Chardonnay Scarborough $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Scarborough [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Deep golden-buttery yellow; both the bouquet and palate are as the colour promises, exceedingly rich, soft and developed, with peachy buttery fruit (and subtle oak). After the fanfare of trumpets, finishes slightly short. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Deep golden-buttery yellow; both the bouquet and palate are as the colour promises, exceedingly rich, soft and developed, with peachy buttery fruit (and subtle oak). After the fanfare of trumpets, finishes slightly short.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 SeaviewP 5Made entirely from McLaren Vale Chardonnay. Part was barrel-fermented in French oak, and part of the wine was matured on yeast lees for three months and underwent malolactic fermentation prior to blending. Making techniques like this are truly remarkable for a wine made in such volumes and priced around $11. R 1-2 yearsS 1996U Pan-fried vealX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Seaview Chardonnay Seaview $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Seaview y[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a complex, tangy and stylish bouquet with grapefruit/melon fruit and no hint of the use of oak chips. The palate has exceptional intensity of fruit flavour with some ripe fig flavours coming through together with the grapefruit and melon. Good length, subtle oak. Yet another outstanding achievement for a $10 wine. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a complex, tangy and stylish bouquet with grapefruit/melon fruit and no hint of the use of oak chips. The palate has exceptional intensity of fruit flavour with some ripe fig flavours coming through together with the grapefruit and melon. Good length, subtle oak. Yet another outstanding achievement for a $10 wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 SeaviewP Introduced in 1992 as part of the repositioning and refocusing of the Seaview range. Prior to 1992 there was a Shiraz Cabernet which was sourced from many South Australian regions. This wine effectively replaces it, and is a distinct improvement.R 5-7 yearsS 1995U Lamb shashlikX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Seaview Shiraz Seaview $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Seaview [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; well-ripened red cherry and red berry fruit aromas of medium intensity are supported by subtle oak. The palate has good flavour and weight, with more of those ripe berry flavours together with some minty notes. Impeccable value. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; well-ripened red cherry and red berry fruit aromas of medium intensity are supported by subtle oak. The palate has good flavour and weight, with more of those ripe berry flavours together with some minty notes. Impeccable value.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 SeaviewP wA vertical tasting of over 20 vintages going back to 1972 carried out in mid-1993 showed a remarkably consistent wine which does have the capacity to age without ever aspiring to ultimate greatness. The 92 vintage moves back predominantly to McLaren Vale with small components from Coonawarra, Barossa and Padthaway, and was matured in American and French oak for 12 months. R 3-7 yearsS! 1995U Steak and kidney pieX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Seaview Cabernet Sauvignon Seaview $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Seaview [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet shows some red berry fruits with earthy/chocolatey Cabernet character. On the palate some minty flavours come through; direct and not particularly complex, nor destined for a particularly long life. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet shows some red berry fruits with earthy/chocolatey Cabernet character. On the palate some minty flavours come through; direct and not particularly complex, nor destined for a particularly long life.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 SeppeltP Every year since 1986 Seppelt has made a tiny release of 100 Year Old Para Liqueur Port, kept in cask for a century and not diluted or maintained by a solera system of topping up. In other words, it is a true vintage wine. Made from Barossa Shiraz and Grenache, the analysis of the 1894 vintage tells just how much it has concentrated with age: 16.25 baum , 25.5% alcohol and 10.8 grams per litre of acid, with a pH of 3.68. The baum and acid levels have more than doubled over the years as tB,he wine has become incredibly concentrated. NAS"1886, 1887, 1890, 1892, 1894, 1897T 1894, 1895U)The finest quality double expresso coffeeX 14/7/98` SH GRa Barossa Valleyb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortifiedf 100 Year Old Para Liqueur Port X Fortified Z Australia _&Seppelt 100 Year Old Para Liqueur Port Seppelt Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 Seppelt u[5wine glasses] 1897 Dark olive-brown, tinged with green, and pours like viscous oil; the bouquet leaps out of the glass, with cascades of aroma; plum pudding, toffee and the works lifted by the touch of volatility one always encounters. The tiniest sip is overwhelming, drawing saliva from every corner of the mouth; incredibly concentrated and essencey. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1897 <f"Bembo">Dark olive-brown, tinged with green, and pours like viscous oil; the bouquet leaps out of the glass, with cascades of aroma; plum pudding, toffee and the works lifted by the touch of volatility one always encounters. The tiniest sip is overwhelming, drawing saliva from every corner of the mouth; incredibly concentrated and essencey.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Sevenhill CellarsP 12QpProduced from a fraction under 3 hectares of old-vine, estate-grown Riesling, and more often than not very good.R 2-5 years 1996U AntipastoX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Sevenhill Cellars Riesling Sevenhill Cellars $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Sevenhill Cellars [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a very fragrant bouquet, with lots of attractive lime juice aromas introduces a wine bursting with lime and passionfruit on the mid-palate before moving on a crisp, dry finish. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a very fragrant bouquet, with lots of attractive lime juice aromas introduces a wine bursting with lime and passionfruit on the mid-palate before moving on a crisp, dry finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Sevenhill CellarsP OA blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, all of which are estate-grown. The policy has always been to pick the grapes very ripe, thus producing a densely coloured and massively flavoured wine which really needs much time to soften and mature. The 96 topped its class at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show. 10-15 yearsS 1995U Strong cheese or red meatX 14/7/98` CS MA CF MTa Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red St Ignatius Cabernet Blends Z Australia Sevenhill Cellars St Ignatius Sevenhill Cellars $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Sevenhill Cellars [4wine glasses] 1996 Deep red-purple; like all of the Sevenhill wines, very powerful and concentrated, with pronounced mint characters on both bouquet and palate - a tad too exaggerated for my personal taste, though the judges thought otherwise. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Deep red-purple; like all of the Sevenhill wines, very powerful and concentrated, with pronounced mint characters on both bouquet and palate - a tad too exaggerated for my personal taste, though the judges thought otherwise.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Seville EstateP Consistently the best of the Seville Estate wines but little known outside a select circle simply because production is so limited. It is matured in a mixture of French and American oak, but it is the fruit which really drives the wine.R Option to 10 yearsS 1994U Pot-au-feuX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Red 5 Full-bodied dry redf Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Seville Estate Shiraz Seville Estate $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Seville Estate N[4wine glasses] 1996 Excellent purple-red colour; the bouquet is clean, with that mix of black cherry, earth and spice in abundance; the palate shows a similar range of cherry, spice and strongly earthy fruit, supported by subtle oak and moderate tannins. In retrospect, the rating may be a little on the harsh side. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Excellent purple-red colour; the bouquet is clean, with that mix of black cherry, earth and spice in abundance; the palate shows a similar range of cherry, spice and strongly earthy fruit, supported by subtle oak and moderate tannins. In retrospect, the rating may be a little on the harsh side.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 ShantellP UThere is not a great deal of semillon grown in the Yarra Valley, but what there is produces some attractive wines. In most vintages, as one would expect, the wine has a distinctly herbaceous feel akin to Sauvignon Blanc, but enough intensity not to require oak. The Shantell wine is made in this fashion from half a hectare of estate grapes. Up to 5 yearsS 1996U AbaloneX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Shantell Semillon Shantell $11-15 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Shantell [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is firm, with clearly defined varietal fruit in a herbaceous, lemon/mineral spectrum. The palate has good flavour and structure, offering plenty now, but with even more to come with age. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is firm, with clearly defined varietal fruit in a herbaceous, lemon/mineral spectrum. The palate has good flavour and structure, offering plenty now, but with even more to come with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 ShantellP Shantell has produced consistently good Cabernet Sauvignon during the 1990s, inevitably reflecting vintage variation but always showing ripe fruit flavours.R Up to 10 yearsS 1993U Shoulder of lambX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Shantell Cabernet Sauvignon Shantell $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Shantell [4wine glasses] 1995 Strong, bright red-purple; the bouquet is ripe, with attractive cassis fruit to the fore. The palate shows similarly ripe berry flavours, with a hint of mint, sweet tannins and a flick of oak. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Strong, bright red-purple; the bouquet is ripe, with attractive cassis fruit to the fore. The palate shows similarly ripe berry flavours, with a hint of mint, sweet tannins and a flick of oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Shaw & SmithP The first vintages were produced on grapes grown on Geoff Hardy s Range Vineyard at Kuitpo in the Adelaide Hills; the 96 contained 20% from Shaw & Smith s new Woodside Vineyard in the Hills, and in 1997 half the wine came from that source.R 1996U Grilled whitingX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc Shaw & Smith $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Shaw & Smith [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a light, fresh tangy bouquet which is crisp, with muted herbaceous/asparagus aroma. The palate is spotlessly clean and utterly correct, again more in the herbaceous end of the spectrum than the tropical. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a light, fresh tangy bouquet which is crisp, with muted herbaceous/asparagus aroma. The palate is spotlessly clean and utterly correct, again more in the herbaceous end of the spectrum than the tropical. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Shaw & SmithP First made in 1993, and part of the modern trend away from oaky, high-alcohol Chardonnays. The fruit is sourced primarily from the Adelaide Hills. R Best youngS 1996U Delicate seafoodX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Unoaked Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Shaw & Smith Unoaked Chardonnay Shaw & Smith $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Shaw & Smith [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with more substance than most unoaked Chardonnays, almost giving an illusion of oak. The palate, too, has some presence and grip to the citrus and melon fruit; developing well. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with more substance than most unoaked Chardonnays, almost giving an illusion of oak. The palate, too, has some presence and grip to the citrus and melon fruit; developing well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Shaw & Smith First made in 1992 and undoubtedly merits the Reserve designation. Using fruit from Geoff Hardy s vineyard, winemaker Martin Shaw applies the full gamut of Burgundian techniques of barrel fermentation, extended time on yeast lees and partial malolactic fermentation, using only finest French oak. A mini vertical tasting in January 1997 of all four vintages then released underlined how well these wines mature in bottle. Up to 7 yearsS 1995U Baked schnapperX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Shaw & Smith Reserve Chardonnay Shaw & Smith $21-25 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Shaw & Smith F[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a smooth, fruit-driven bouquet with ripe melon and fig fruit interwoven with subtle oak and malolactic fermentation influences. The palate is similarly fine and elegant, quite tight and citrussy, finishing with crisp acid. Very well balanced, and will be long lived. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a smooth, fruit-driven bouquet with ripe melon and fig fruit interwoven with subtle oak and malolactic fermentation influences. The palate is similarly fine and elegant, quite tight and citrussy, finishing with crisp acid. Very well balanced, and will be long lived.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 ShottesbrookeP 13.5Q Produced from 3.6 hectares of estate plantings. The fruit is distinctive, citrussy to the point of Sauvignon Blanc, but lends itself to the Chablis-style subtle oak treatment, apparently with partial barrel fermentation. `R Drink nowS 1996U CalamariX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Shottesbrooke Chardonnay Shottesbrooke $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Shottesbrooke [3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium straw-yellow; there is light, citrus-accented fruit on the bouquet, with slightly green oak. The palate is quite lively, with citrussy fruit and subtle oak; a little simple and straightforward. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium straw-yellow; there is light, citrus-accented fruit on the bouquet, with slightly green oak. The palate is quite lively, with citrussy fruit and subtle oak; a little simple and straightforward.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 ShottesbrookeP 14Q+Unwooded and with masses of fruit flavour. R Drink nowS 1996U Light seafood dishesX 14/7/98` CS MTa McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Fleurieu Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _&Shottesbrooke Fleurieu Sauvignon Blanc Shottesbrooke $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Shottesbrooke [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite potent, with tangy herbal/lemon aromas, the palate likewise crisp and tangy with lemon, herb and tropical fruit flavours, before softening off on the back palate and finish. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite potent, with tangy herbal/lemon aromas, the palate likewise crisp and tangy with lemon, herb and tropical fruit flavours, before softening off on the back palate and finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 SkillogaleeP #The principal wine of Skillogalee, produced from 8 hectares of estate grapes which wind up and down the steep hills of the Skilly Valley, and which are now fully mature. The style is consistently at the fuller end of the Clare Valley spectrum, honest, generous and relatively quick-maturing. R 1-3 yearsS 1996U Quiche LorraineX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Skillogalee Riesling Skillogalee $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Skillogalee [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is rich, with solid lime fruit supported by a mineral/herb substrate. The palate is powerful, with that extra intensity, structure and grip virtually unique to Clare Riesling; citrus/lime flavours. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is rich, with solid lime fruit supported by a mineral/herb substrate. The palate is powerful, with that extra intensity, structure and grip virtually unique to Clare Riesling; citrus/lime flavours.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 SkillogaleeP 24.50 .Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, with a small percentage of estate-grown Cabernet Franc and Malbec making up the blend. The style is relatively light-bodied, often with distinctly minty overtones, balanced by a touch of American oak. The 96 has won three gold medals (Perth, Rutherglen and Brisbane). R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Yearling steakX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red The Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Skillogalee The Cabernets Skillogalee $21-25 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Skillogalee S[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet balances abundant ripe earthy/cassis cabernet fruit with ample vanillin oak, predominantly American. The palate, while having plenty of extract and richness, is not overblown; the tannins are supple and soft, and the oak flavours well balanced and integrated. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet balances abundant ripe earthy/cassis cabernet fruit with ample vanillin oak, predominantly American. The palate, while having plenty of extract and richness, is not overblown; the tannins are supple and soft, and the oak flavours well balanced and integrated.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Geoff WeaverP 18.16 ,Produced from 1.8 hectares of close-planted but very low-yielding sauvignon blanc planted in 1987. Right from the outset, the quality of this wine has been exceptional, with a purity and intensity of flavour equalled by few other Australian Sauvignon Blancs. It is not wooded, nor does it need to be. R 1-3 yearsS 1996U MusselsX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Stafford Ridge Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _+Geoff Weaver Stafford Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Geoff Weaver $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Geoff Weaver N[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium green-yellow; a fragrant mix of gooseberry and passionfruit aromas of absolute purity lead on to a delicate, yet intense, palate. The wine is beautifully balanced, with crisp acidity; not at all flamboyant, and the sort of wine which can easily be overlooked in the show ring. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; a fragrant mix of gooseberry and passionfruit aromas of absolute purity lead on to a delicate, yet intense, palate. The wine is beautifully balanced, with crisp acidity; not at all flamboyant, and the sort of wine which can easily be overlooked in the show ring. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Geoff WeaverP 14QyProduced from 1 hectare of riesling planted in 1982 at an altitude of 540 metres. The wines are unequivocally long-lived.R Up to 7 yearsS 1994U Fresh asparagusX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Stafford Ridge Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _$Geoff Weaver Stafford Ridge Riesling Geoff Weaver $11-15 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Geoff Weaver %[4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the aromas are classic varietal, lead by lime with some mineral undertones, tight and intense. The palate has delicate lime and passionfruit flavours running through to a relatively firm, youthful finish. At the very dawn of its life. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the aromas are classic varietal, lead by lime with some mineral undertones, tight and intense. The palate has delicate lime and passionfruit flavours running through to a relatively firm, youthful finish. At the very dawn of its life.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 St HallettP 39.95Q A wine which has propelled St Hallett into international stardom, and which is responsible for the overall winery rating. Made from 60 to 100-year-old dry-grown Barossa vines, with the addition of new American oak making its impact since 1988. R 4-8 yearsS& 1993U Kangaroo, gameX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf M Old Block Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia St Hallett Old Block Shiraz St Hallett $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 St Hallett B[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a clean, smooth bouquet of medium intensity with cherry and vanilla aromas interwoven announces an ultra-smooth palate with a mix of dark plum and black cherry fruit supported by soft vanilla oak and fine tannins. An understatement, rather than an overstatement. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean, smooth bouquet of medium intensity with cherry and vanilla aromas interwoven announces an ultra-smooth palate with a mix of dark plum and black cherry fruit supported by soft vanilla oak and fine tannins. An understatement, rather than an overstatement.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 St HubertsP fAlmost 50% of the 20 hectares of estate plantings at St Huberts are cabernet sauvignon, some of it original plantings, and more grafted over from other varieties. The 77 St Huberts Cabernet caused a sensation at the time, both for its quality and its then astronomically high price of $17 a bottle. Clever winemaking continues to produce rich, smooth wines. R 10+ yearsS 1994U Rich casserole dishesX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia St Huberts Cabernet Sauvignon St Huberts $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 St Huberts [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full purple-red; there is a mix of ripe cassis fruit and cedary oak on the smooth bouquet; the palate provides more of that sweet cassis-accented fruit, finishing with soft tannins. An exceptional achievement for the vintage. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full purple-red; there is a mix of ripe cassis fruit and cedary oak on the smooth bouquet; the palate provides more of that sweet cassis-accented fruit, finishing with soft tannins. An exceptional achievement for the vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 pN Stonier Produced from 3.5 hectares of estate-grown grapes, and made using the full gamut of Burgundian techniques including barrel fermentation, lees contact and malolactic fermentation. The wines are exceptionally complex and stylish; the 93 was selected for Qantas First Class service, won a number of gold medals at national wine shows, and two trophies at the 1994 Ballarat Wine Show, including the trophy for Best Wine of Show (the first time it had been awarded to a white wine). The 95 anB/d 96 wines are of similar quality (and style). R 3-5 yearsS! 1995U Milk-fed vealX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Stonier s Reserve Chardonnay c Stonier $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 % Stonier g[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; exceptionally well balanced and integrated fruit, oak and malolactic fermentation inputs weave a subtle yet complex bouquet which retains attractive melon and fig fruit. There is more elegance and harmony on the palate with melon and cashew flavours supported by nicely judged oak. Top-class making. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; exceptionally well balanced and integrated fruit, oak and malolactic fermentation inputs weave a subtle yet complex bouquet which retains attractive melon and fig fruit. There is more elegance and harmony on the palate with melon and cashew flavours supported by nicely judged oak. Top-class making.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 qN Stonier If it were possible, the Reserve Pinot Noir has an even more distinguished track record than the Reserve Chardonnay. The 1992 vintage was nominated as the Best Pinot Noir in the 1994/95 Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide, by Huon Hooke and Mark Shield, while the 1993 vintage won two major trophies at the 1994 Royal Adelaide Wine Show, including the trophy for Best Varietal Dry Red Table Wine Any Variety. The wine is exceedingly complex and stylish. None was made in 1996. R 2-4 yearsS! 1995U Coq au vinX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Stonier s Reserve Pinot Noir c Stonier $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 % Stonier [5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; quite pronounced spicy oak introduces a light but stylish bouquet with hints of strawberry and violets. The palate is delicate but refined, with good mouthfeel, balance and structure; the sweet, spicy French oak has been very well handled. Retasted October 1997 and has developed beautifully, with strong Burgundian characteristics. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; quite pronounced spicy oak introduces a light but stylish bouquet with hints of strawberry and violets. The palate is delicate but refined, with good mouthfeel, balance and structure; the sweet, spicy French oak has been very well handled. Retasted October 1997 and has developed beautifully, with strong Burgundian characteristics.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 TaltarniP Produced from a little over 12 hectares of estate-grown grapes, and has established a track record for its strength and longevity. The wines are never fruity or fragrant; durability and honesty are their hallmarks.R 10 yearsS 1994U Gippsland blue cheeseX 14/7/98` Pyreneesb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Taltarni Shiraz Taltarni $16-20 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Taltarni ,[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red, with just a touch of purple; the aromas are primarily in the earthy spectrum, and of medium intensity. The palate provides a little more, with a mix of leaf, earth, spice and mint flavours of medium weight. Pleasant, though not especially complex. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red, with just a touch of purple; the aromas are primarily in the earthy spectrum, and of medium intensity. The palate provides a little more, with a mix of leaf, earth, spice and mint flavours of medium weight. Pleasant, though not especially complex.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 TamburlaineP An interesting wine, released onto the market in the year of vintage, yet asserting that it has extended oak maturation. It is silent about the varietal (and regional) composition.R 5+ yearsS MoussakaX 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red The Chapel Reserve Red Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _"Tamburlaine The Chapel Reserve Red Tamburlaine $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Tamburlaine [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Vivid purple-red; a youthful, fresh and clean bouquet is followed by a similarly fresh, youthful palate in which I was able to find red berry, leaf, mint, herb, spice and cherry flavours - but not much oak. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Vivid purple-red; a youthful, fresh and clean bouquet is followed by a similarly fresh, youthful palate in which I was able to find red berry, leaf, mint, herb, spice and cherry flavours - but not much oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 TarrawarraP Produced from 11.5 hectares of estate-grown grapes in a state-of-the-art winery using a complex range of viticultural and winemaking techniques including multiple picking of the grapes at different maturity levels, barrel fermentation of partly clarified juice, lees contact and malolactic fermentation. The style is always very complex with much of the emphasis placed on structure and texture, the resulting style being quite different from most other wines of the Yarra Valley. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Pheasant, turkeyX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Tarrawarra Chardonnay Tarrawarra Estate $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Tarrawarra Estate L[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; an exceedingly complex bouquet with many winemaker inputs on top of quite powerful melon/fig fruit. There are abundant nutty/cashew and fig flavours on the palate, although there is a slightly burnt edge which appears every now and then on both bouquet and palate. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; an exceedingly complex bouquet with many winemaker inputs on top of quite powerful melon/fig fruit. There are abundant nutty/cashew and fig flavours on the palate, although there is a slightly burnt edge which appears every now and then on both bouquet and palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 TarrawarraP Produced from 6.5 hectares of estate plantings of several different clones. As with the Chardonnay, much attention is paid to style and structure: the grapes are picked when very ripe, and the winemaking techniques are designed to gain maximum extraction of colour and flavour from the grapes. The wines are often awkward when young, powerfully impressive with age and have won a significant number of trophies in Australian wine shows in recent years. R 3-5 yearsS! 1994U SquabX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Tarrawarra Pinot Noir Tarrawarra Estate $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Tarrawarra Estate 6[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a robust and complex bouquet with plum, spice and touches of tobacco leads into a palate as powerful and as complex as the label and the vintage would suggest. Just lacks a fraction of fresh mid-palate fruit, but a very good wine nonetheless. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a robust and complex bouquet with plum, spice and touches of tobacco leads into a palate as powerful and as complex as the label and the vintage would suggest. Just lacks a fraction of fresh mid-palate fruit, but a very good wine nonetheless.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 TarrawarraP 17.50 PThe second label is not simply a selection of those barrels of Tarrawarra Pinot which have been less successful, but at least part of the wine is deliberately made in a different fashion right from the outset, placing less emphasis on structure, more on fruit and using less new oak. Quite deliberately designed to make a simpler style. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Poached Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Tunnel Hill Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _!Tarrawarra Tunnel Hill Pinot Noir Tarrawarra Estate $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Tarrawarra Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium red; by the standards of Tarrawarra, a relatively light, fresh and simple bouquet, but perhaps none the worse for that, with attractive varietal cherry fruit. The palate is very good, fruit-driven, but with some real style, and a mix of cherry and more sappy flavours. An excellent entry point for those not familiar with Pinot Noir. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red; by the standards of Tarrawarra, a relatively light, fresh and simple bouquet, but perhaps none the worse for that, with attractive varietal cherry fruit. The palate is very good, fruit-driven, but with some real style, and a mix of cherry and more sappy flavours. An excellent entry point for those not familiar with Pinot Noir.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 TaylorsP 10.50 MIn the midst of the debate over the use of the word Rhine in connection with Riesling, Taylors throws in a further confusion. Clare Riesling was the name incorrectly given to a second-rate variety called Crouchen; this wine is in fact made from Riesling, and the incorrect labelling borders on the bizarre. The wine itself is good. R 3-4 yearsS 1996U AvocadoX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Clare Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Taylors Clare Riesling Taylors e under $10 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Taylors J[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp, with spice, mineral, lime and toast aromas. Lime fruit comes to the fore on a light to medium-weight palate, which is well balanced and has good mouthfeel. Somewhere in the centre of the extremes of Clare Valley-style from the 97 vintage. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp, with spice, mineral, lime and toast aromas. Lime fruit comes to the fore on a light to medium-weight palate, which is well balanced and has good mouthfeel. Somewhere in the centre of the extremes of Clare Valley-style from the 97 vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 TaylorsP Previously called Hermitage, but now re-badged Shiraz in conformity with international standards, which makes Taylors adherence to Clare Riesling all the more surprising. Matured for 12 months in American oak, in more recent years with much success. R 4-6 yearsS 1995U Carpaccio of beefX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Taylors Shiraz Taylors $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Taylors [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full red-purple; there is considerable, youthful fruit, as one would expect from a wine bottled much earlier than has been the practice hitherto for Taylors. The palate shows lots of plum, mint and cherry fruit, with adequate tannins; I am not too sure the winemaking has not veered from one extreme to the other, for the wine seems slightly unformed, but will have additional time in bottle prior to release, and may settle down in that time. RATING: 82B @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; there is considerable, youthful fruit, as one would expect from a wine bottled much earlier than has been the practice hitherto for Taylors. The palate shows lots of plum, mint and cherry fruit, with adequate tannins; I am not too sure the winemaking has not veered from one extreme to the other, for the wine seems slightly unformed, but will have additional time in bottle prior to release, and may settle down in that time.<t9h119.99B797z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Temple BruerP 12.20Q A new venture for Temple Bruer, and made very much in the modern caf -style. One suspects that there will be many more wines of this style coming on to the market in the years ahead.R Drink nowS 1994U Duck p 14/7/98` Langhorne Creekb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Cornucopia Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _ Temple Bruer Cornucopia Grenache Temple Bruer $11-15 Langhorne Creek 14/7/98 Temple Bruer [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite potent, with juicy/berry varietal character, with equally well-defined juicy berry fruit on the medium-weight palate. Perhaps a fraction simple, but honest. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite potent, with juicy/berry varietal character, with equally well-defined juicy berry fruit on the medium-weight palate. Perhaps a fraction simple, but honest.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 GallantP iSay Quealy and McCarthy, A wine made and marketed that will silence the critics who clutch to the belief that wooden wines are better . Produced from the Hickson and Turramurra Vineyards, both of which are established on poorer soils and which are relatively low-yielding and early-ripening. For the record, the most expensive unwooded Chardonnay in Australia. R 3-6 yearsS 1995U Fresh lobsterX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Lot 2 Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Gallant Lot 2 Chardonnay c T'Gallant $26-50 Mornington Peninsula t late note 14/7/98 % T'Gallant l[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium green-yellow; there are light melon fruit aromas and, of course, no hint of oak. The wine has more weight on the palate than is suggested by the bouquet with melon and mandarin flavours, and a touch of hot alcohol on the finish. The transparency of unoaked Chardonnay is very evident in difficult vintages. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; there are light melon fruit aromas and, of course, no hint of oak. The wine has more weight on the palate than is suggested by the bouquet with melon and mandarin flavours, and a touch of hot alcohol on the finish. The transparency of unoaked Chardonnay is very evident in difficult vintages. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 GallantP #Yet another name and label change which keeps even the most dedicated T'Gallant sailors on their toes. The key is the use of the name 'Pinot Grigio' (the Italian version) as opposed to Pinot Gris (the French). The Pinot Grigio is always lighter, crisper and less opulent than the Pinot Gris. R 1-4 yearsS 1995U Smoked salmonX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Pinot Grigio White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Gallant Flag Pinot Grigio c T'Gallant $16-20 Mornington Peninsula t late note 14/7/98 % T'Gallant [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a quite aromatic and sweet bouquet with hints of white peach suggests a role-reversal for the two wines, but the palate proves otherwise, being lighter than the Tribute, fresh and crisp, with a bone-dry finish. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a quite aromatic and sweet bouquet with hints of white peach suggests a role-reversal for the two wines, but the palate proves otherwise, being lighter than the Tribute, fresh and crisp, with a bone-dry finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 N Tim AdamsP 13.50Q It is made to develop early, with substantial oak input (75% American, 25% French) and what appears to be skin contact used prior to fermentation. The wine is barrel-fermented and spends five months in oak.R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Rich white meat dishesX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Tim Adams Semillon c Tim Adams $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 % Tim Adams [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is typically full-bodied, but has swallowed up the oak. The palate has plenty of flavour and depth, and, against all the odds, it is neither phenolic nor excessively oaky. Finishes with good acidity. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is typically full-bodied, but has swallowed up the oak. The palate has plenty of flavour and depth, and, against all the odds, it is neither phenolic nor excessively oaky. Finishes with good acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 N Tim AdamsP 16QLProduced from 4 hectares of shiraz owned by the Adams and Crawley families. R 7-10 yearsS 1993U Spit roast lambX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Tim Adams Shiraz c Tim Adams $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 % Tim Adams [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is concentrated, with briar and liquorice fruit; the palate is likewise concentrated, but not heavy, with mulberry, plum and a touch of liquorice. Does lighten off slightly on the finish, which may be no bad thing. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is concentrated, with briar and liquorice fruit; the palate is likewise concentrated, but not heavy, with mulberry, plum and a touch of liquorice. Does lighten off slightly on the finish, which may be no bad thing.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 KnappsteinP yThe reputation of the Rieslings of the Clare Valley is as much due to Tim Knappstein as to any other winemaker, past or present. Tim Knappstein himself was the first to say that the quality and style of Riesling is in turn strongly dependent upon the terroir and climate, and that too is true. The combination of man, climate and variety in the outcome produced a classic wine. Up to 20 yearsS5 1996U Salads of all kindsX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked)f Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Knappstein Riesling Knappstein Wines $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Knappstein Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; an attractively rich bouquet with sweet citrus aromas; a marvellously balanced and modulated wine in the mouth, with abundant mid-palate lemony fruit followed by a fine, dry, lingering but not phenolic finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; an attractively rich bouquet with sweet citrus aromas; a marvellously balanced and modulated wine in the mouth, with abundant mid-palate lemony fruit followed by a fine, dry, lingering but not phenolic finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 TollanaP (For the better part of two decades, the Tollana Riesling has been one of Australia s better-kept secrets, particularly under its prior ownerships. It ages well, and has not infrequently collected trophies at national wine shows as a mature wine. Invariably released with several years bottle age. R 5-7 years 1993, 1994U Seafood saladX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Tollana Riesling Tollana e under $10 Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 Tollana 9[4wine glasses] 1995 Brilliant, glowing yellow-green; the bouquet is soft but quite rich with pleasant bottle-developed toasty aromas. The palate seems fully developed, with lots of soft honey and toast flavours, finishing with soft acid. Will no doubt surprise by hanging in there indefinitely. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Brilliant, glowing yellow-green; the bouquet is soft but quite rich with pleasant bottle-developed toasty aromas. The palate seems fully developed, with lots of soft honey and toast flavours, finishing with soft acid. Will no doubt surprise by hanging in there indefinitely.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 TollanaP A slight slip from the pure Eden Valley region of origin, as it is in fact a blend of 58% Eden Valley and 42% Adelaide Hills material. The wine is 100% barrel-fermented and matured in new French oak for four months and is left in contact with its lees for this period. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Pork with apricotsX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Tollana Semillon Tollana e under $10 Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 Tollana [3wine glasses] 1995 Full yellow; a complex bouquet with lots of toasty French oak and equivalently big, rich flavours on the palate. The oak is, however, dominant, particularly on the finish and aftertaste. A lighter touch might have produced a better wine. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Full yellow; a complex bouquet with lots of toasty French oak and equivalently big, rich flavours on the palate. The oak is, however, dominant, particularly on the finish and aftertaste. A lighter touch might have produced a better wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 TollanaP Another very complex wine with a great deal of sophisticated oak input, costing both time and money. There is usually some very good fruit lurking underneath the oak, but a lighter touch would surely make an even better wine. A consistent silver medal winner. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Chicken poached in white wineX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Tollana Chardonnay Tollana e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Tollana [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow; a full-on bouquet, with lots of rich fruit and faintly bitter charry oak. A solid, chewy wine on the palate with fractionally heavy handed oak tending to rob the wine of vivacity. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow; a full-on bouquet, with lots of rich fruit and faintly bitter charry oak. A solid, chewy wine on the palate with fractionally heavy handed oak tending to rob the wine of vivacity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Trentham EstateP 10.95 Tony Murphy has often managed to conjure up something special with Merlot; the Mildura region is not the most likely site for a variety such as this. The 93 and 94 were both silver medal winners at national shows.R 3-4 yearsS 1994U Marinated rabbitX 14/7/98` Murray Darling and Swan Hillb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Trentham Estate Merlot Trentham Estate e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 Trentham Estate 5[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red, with a touch of purple; the bouquet is fragrant, of medium intensity, showing berry and leaf fruit, and just a hint of lift. The palate comes into its own, with attractive, ripe varietal fruit ranging through spice, berry and touches of leaf and liquorice. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red, with a touch of purple; the bouquet is fragrant, of medium intensity, showing berry and leaf fruit, and just a hint of lift. The palate comes into its own, with attractive, ripe varietal fruit ranging through spice, berry and touches of leaf and liquorice.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 N Tyrrell 18.50 One of the great, classic Hunter Valley Semillons, produced from unirrigated vines which, because of their superior soils, do in fact yield well. Released as a young wine through the Tyrrell s mailing list and cellar door, but re-released through the retail trade at various intervals according to the vintage. Vat 1 Semillons have won 12 trophies, 87 gold, 72 silver and 99 bronze medals since 1964. Up to 15 yearsS0 1992 (Aged Release)U Pan-fried vealX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Vat 1 Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Tyrrell s Vat 1 Semillon c Tyrrell $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley t late note 14/7/98 % Tyrrell >[5wine glasses] 1993 Full, glowing yellow-green; a complex bouquet, toasty with hints of spice; a supple and delicate array of flavours on the palate which are starting to sing. Between the time it was first tasted in 1995 and late 1997 had developed out of all recognition, and will go on from here. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1993 <f"Bembo">Full, glowing yellow-green; a complex bouquet, toasty with hints of spice; a supple and delicate array of flavours on the palate which are starting to sing. Between the time it was first tasted in 1995 and late 1997 had developed out of all recognition, and will go on from here.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 N Tyrrell 13.50 mArguably the best of the Old Winery range, although this is to split hairs. Eighty per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot is sourced from the Hunter Valley, Coonawarra and McLaren Vale, and matured in a mix of one and two-year-old American and French oak barriques. Not only a consistent gold medal winner at national shows, but a trophy winner in recent years. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Grilled kidneysX 14/7/98` CS MTa Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Old Winery Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _$Tyrrell s Old Winery Cabernet Merlot c Tyrrell $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 % Tyrrell [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light red; the bouquet shows fresh red berry fruit of moderate intensity, and minimal oak. The palate has fresh, red berry, leaf and mint fruit, but lacks the depth and complexity of earlier vintages. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light red; the bouquet shows fresh red berry fruit of moderate intensity, and minimal oak. The palate has fresh, red berry, leaf and mint fruit, but lacks the depth and complexity of earlier vintages.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Voyager EstateP 23.69Q In the majority of vintages Voyager Estate produces a Chardonnay of complexity, style and verve typical of the Margaret River at its very best. R 4-7 yearsS 1995U Braised pork neckX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Voyager Estate Chardonnay Voyager Estate $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Voyager Estate ;[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; by Margaret River standards, relatively subtle and elegant, with seductive melon and fig fruit interwoven with smooth oak. An excellent wine on the palate with an admirable touch of restraint, achieving that elegance without sacrificing flavour or length. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; by Margaret River standards, relatively subtle and elegant, with seductive melon and fig fruit interwoven with smooth oak. An excellent wine on the palate with an admirable touch of restraint, achieving that elegance without sacrificing flavour or length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Wandin ValleyP The Reserve Chardonnay was introduced with effect from the 1994 vintage, and was a gold medal winner at the 1994 Australian National Wine Show in Canberra. Part of the wine is barrel-fermented in a mix of French and American oak barriques, and part is fermented in stainless steel. The two portions are then blended, although the American oak (as ever) does tend to dominate proceedings. 1996U Barbecued spatchcockX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) WVE Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Wandin Valley WVE Reserve Chardonnay Wandin Valley Estate $21-25 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Wandin Valley Estate i[4wine glasses] 1997 Glowing yellow-green; voluminous charry/toasty American barrel-ferment oak on the bouquet, and clove/spice charry oak is likewise very evident on the palate. However, all of this oak has been well handled and integrated, and there is fruit lurking there in support. Will have enormous appeal to those who like oaky styles. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; voluminous charry/toasty American barrel-ferment oak on the bouquet, and clove/spice charry oak is likewise very evident on the palate. However, all of this oak has been well handled and integrated, and there is fruit lurking there in support. Will have enormous appeal to those who like oaky styles.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 WaningaP Mature vines and the Tim Adams winemaking stamp produce an excellent Clare Valley-style. The 96 came first in the Shiraz Class in the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Competition. R 4-6 yearsS 1994U Steak and kidney pieX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Waninga Shiraz Waninga $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Waninga [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; red berry and mint varietal fruit on both bouquet and palate is supported by positive, but by no means excessive, American oak. Well balanced, with soft tannins. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; red berry and mint varietal fruit on both bouquet and palate is supported by positive, but by no means excessive, American oak. Well balanced, with soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 N WarramateP Produced from just under half a hectare of estate-grown plantings, typically providing around 200 cases of wine. The plantings are not irrigated, and enjoy a prime north-facing slope.R 4-8 yearsS 1993U Spiced lambX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Warramate Shiraz c Warramate $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 % Warramate [3wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; spice, cedar and cigar box aromas and flavours make a promising start on both bouquet and palate, but stale, old oak characters intrude at the end of both the bouquet and, in particular, the palate. A pity. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; spice, cedar and cigar box aromas and flavours make a promising start on both bouquet and palate, but stale, old oak characters intrude at the end of both the bouquet and, in particular, the palate. A pity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 N WarramateP Produced from 0.8 of a hectare of cabernet sauvignon, with a little merlot included in the plantings. Like the Shiraz, the vines are not irrigated, and are consequently low-yielding.R 5 yearsS 1993U Mature cheddarX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Warramate Cabernet Sauvignon c Warramate $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 % Warramate ([4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with pleasant earthy/berry cabernet fruit of medium intensity. The palate is particularly attractive, with cassis/redcurrant fruit and barely perceptible oak. Much the best of the currently available Warramate wines. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with pleasant earthy/berry cabernet fruit of medium intensity. The palate is particularly attractive, with cassis/redcurrant fruit and barely perceptible oak. Much the best of the currently available Warramate wines.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Water WheelP The Shiraz is always presented in a way which encourages early consumption, for the wines are never tannic or extractive, and put the emphasis on fresh fruit. However, in vintages such as 1995 and 1996 there is the substance for medium-term cellaring.R Drink nowS 1995U Cold meatsX 14/7/98` Bendigob 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Water Wheel Shiraz Water Wheel $11-15 Bendigo 14/7/98 Water Wheel [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red; ripe earthy varietal shiraz and well judged vanillin oak on the bouquet are followed by a strongly flavoured black cherry and plum palate. Plenty of texture and structure, and nice oak handling all contribute to a good wine. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red; ripe earthy varietal shiraz and well judged vanillin oak on the bouquet are followed by a strongly flavoured black cherry and plum palate. Plenty of texture and structure, and nice oak handling all contribute to a good wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 N WendoureeP This is but one of five wines produced in most vintages from the estate. Each one is entitled to be classed as a classic wine, each one a monument to the terroir and to the Bradys passionate defence of it. The 1995 was the centenary release, incidentally. Five hundred cases made. R 20+ yearsS+ 1993U#Leave it in the cellar for a decadeX 14/7/98` CS MAa Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Cabernet Malbec Cabernet Blends Z Australia Wendouree Cabernet Malbec c Wendouree $26-50 Clare Valley t late note 14/7/98 % Wendouree [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a stupendously concentrated and powerful bouquet, bursting with ripe blackberry fruit; the palate is opulently rich, ripe and round, with the Malbec influence very evident. Luscious and mouthfilling. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a stupendously concentrated and powerful bouquet, bursting with ripe blackberry fruit; the palate is opulently rich, ripe and round, with the Malbec influence very evident. Luscious and mouthfilling.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 WignallsP Produced from 2 hectares of estate plantings. It is usually fairly discreet when first released, but builds flavour and character with a year or two in the bottle. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Milk-fed vealX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Wignalls Chardonnay Wignalls Wines $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 Wignalls Wines [3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, with an element of lift, the palate with pleasant citrussy/lemony flavours, but lacking the intensity for higher points. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, with an element of lift, the palate with pleasant citrussy/lemony flavours, but lacking the intensity for higher points.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 WignallsP ,An enigmatic wine, even by the standards of the perversely unpredictable Pinot Noir variety. By and large, has tended to look excellent when young but to develop with disconcerting rapidity, sometimes problematically. Note also there are tiny quantities of a Reserve Pinot released from time to time. R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Seared Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Wignalls Pinot Noir Wignalls Wines $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 Wignalls Wines 4[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; the bouquet is light but quite stylish with a mix of cedary/tobacco/stemmy aromas, and shows no signs of volatility. The palate has good feel and structure, although the sweet oak is unusual. As with all the Wignall Pinots, quite advanced for its vintage. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is light but quite stylish with a mix of cedary/tobacco/stemmy aromas, and shows no signs of volatility. The palate has good feel and structure, although the sweet oak is unusual. As with all the Wignall Pinots, quite advanced for its vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 WilsonP tJohn Wilson has always made powerful Riesling from his Polish Hill River vineyards, almost invariably at the upper end of the Clare Valley hierarchy. A bottle of 1991 tasted in January 1997 was magnificent, a great Riesling at the height of its power and complexity. The 96 and 97 will go down the same path; Wilson builds Rieslings of unusual concentration and flavour. R 4-7 yearsS! 1996U Japanese cuisineX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Gallery Series Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Wilson Gallery Series Riesling Wilson Vineyard $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Wilson Vineyard [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a powerful wine with lots of spicy lime fruit aromas, and similarly abundant flavours, particularly on the mid-palate. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a powerful wine with lots of spicy lime fruit aromas, and similarly abundant flavours, particularly on the mid-palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Wirra WirraP One of the pioneers of quality Sauvignon Blanc in McLaren Vale. Wine quality is never less than good, excelling in the cooler vintages. Draws principally upon 3.5 hectares of estate plantings.R Best drunk youngS 1996U Blue swimmer crabX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Wirra Wirra Sauvignon Blanc Wirra Wirra $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Wirra Wirra [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; there is an attractive mix of tropical and gooseberry fruit aromas on the bouquet, supported on the palate by some minerally characters which aid the structure. Fine and long flavoured. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; there is an attractive mix of tropical and gooseberry fruit aromas on the bouquet, supported on the palate by some minerally characters which aid the structure. Fine and long flavoured.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Wirra WirraP -Eight hectares of estate vineyards provide the core of what is always a stylish wine, rising to great heights in years such as 1991. The full range of modern Chardonnay winemaking techniques is applied, with as much focus on structure and complexity as on fruit, producing a wine which ages very well. R 2-5 yearsS 1994U Wiener schnitzelX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Wirra Wirra Chardonnay Wirra Wirra $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Wirra Wirra [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth in that typically restrained, understated style of Wirra Wirra, the palate in similar mode. Beautifully balanced, with fig, melon and nutty/cashew characters on a long finish. Subtle oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth in that typically restrained, understated style of Wirra Wirra, the palate in similar mode. Beautifully balanced, with fig, melon and nutty/cashew characters on a long finish. Subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Wirra WirraP 12.50 When, well over a decade ago, Wirra Wirra incorporated the words Hand Picked into its Riesling label, it was regarded as another example of owner Greg Trott s notorious sense of humour. In the intervening years it has come to represent a statement of individuality for one of the region s better Rieslings (all things being relative). Typically, a blend of 80% McLaren Vale and 20% Clare Valley material. R Drink nowS! 1996U South Australian whitingX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Hand Picked Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _ Wirra Wirra Hand Picked Riesling Wirra Wirra $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Wirra Wirra 0[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with passionfruit and citrus aromas, the palate similarly showing more life, flavour and delicacy than most McLaren Vale Rieslings; the floral blossom notes are quite reminiscent of Coonawarra Riesling. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with passionfruit and citrus aromas, the palate similarly showing more life, flavour and delicacy than most McLaren Vale Rieslings; the floral blossom notes are quite reminiscent of Coonawarra Riesling.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Wirra WirraP BChurch Block, typically a blend of around 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% each Shiraz and Merlot, was the first of the Wirra Wirra red wines to catch the eye, although quality did wander around somewhat. The 94 was what proprietor Greg Trott might describe as a little ripper , the 95 and 96 much less rich and intense. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Pasta bologneseX 14/7/98` CS SH MTa McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Church Block Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _/Wirra Wirra Church Block Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Wirra Wirra $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Wirra Wirra [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a clean, fresh bouquet of medium intensity, not complex, but showing pleasant berry and earth fruit. The palate is a replay of the bouquet; a good wine which, however, does not set the pulse racing. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean, fresh bouquet of medium intensity, not complex, but showing pleasant berry and earth fruit. The palate is a replay of the bouquet; a good wine which, however, does not set the pulse racing.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Wirra WirraP The first red wine produced by cousins Greg and Roger Trott in 1972 was a blend of Grenache and Shiraz grown on one of Greg Trott's vineyards which became known as the Church Block. In time that vineyard was replanted to cabernet and merlot (retaining some shiraz) and it was not until 1992 that another Grenache appeared under the Wirra Wirra label, bearing the name Original Blend . Now a blend of approximately two-thirds Grenache and one-third Shiraz, it has become an important part of thB[e Wirra Wirra stable. The 96 was a gold medal winner at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show. Each way - now or 5 yearsS Kangaroo tail stewX 14/7/98` GR SHa McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Original Blend Grenache Shiraz Shiraz Blends Z Australia _*Wirra Wirra Original Blend Grenache Shiraz Wirra Wirra $16-20 17.01 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Wirra Wirra [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Bright red-purple; an ultra-fragrant bouquet with wonderful Grenache varietal character coming through, supported by the Shiraz. There are spicy berry aromas and flavours throughout, yet the wine is not the least bit jammy. Simply delicious. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright red-purple; an ultra-fragrant bouquet with wonderful Grenache varietal character coming through, supported by the Shiraz. There are spicy berry aromas and flavours throughout, yet the wine is not the least bit jammy. Simply delicious. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Wolf BlassP Produced from Wolf Blass s only significant vineyard holdings in the Clare Valley. It is significantly more fruit-driven than enzyme-driven (the latter being the case with the Yellow Label Riesling). Has been a prolific medal and trophy winner in national wine shows over the past four or five years, the 96 topping the Premium Dry White Table Wine class at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show, the 97 sweeping all before it in wine shows in the second half of 1997, seemingly winning trophies at will.B 1996U Salad Ni oiseX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Gold Label Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Wolf Blass Gold Label Riesling Wolf Blass $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Wolf Blass $[5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; an utterly beguiling bouquet, crisp and clean, with floral, lime fruit and just a hint of toast. On the palate combines delicacy with power; the lime/citrus fruit has a nice cut which freshens the long, clean, relatively dry finish. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; an utterly beguiling bouquet, crisp and clean, with floral, lime fruit and just a hint of toast. On the palate combines delicacy with power; the lime/citrus fruit has a nice cut which freshens the long, clean, relatively dry finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Wolf BlassP Made with the typical multi-region sourcing of the Wolf Blass red wine range, and with the still-generous use of American oak. In many ways a clich , but a pretty good one if you like drinking oak.R No particular needS 1993U PizzaX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Red 5 Full-bodied dry red Classic Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Wolf Blass Classic Shiraz Wolf Blass $21-25 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Wolf Blass [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is driven by American oak, with light to medium fruit underneath. The palate has that milkshake mix of oak, chocolate and vanilla which has enormous appeal for the Blass devotees, but I am afraid, not for me. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is driven by American oak, with light to medium fruit underneath. The palate has that milkshake mix of oak, chocolate and vanilla which has enormous appeal for the Blass devotees, but I am afraid, not for me.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 N WoodstockP Produced from 5.3 hectares of estate plantings, and one of the most reliable and most typical examples of McLaren Vale Shiraz. It relies almost entirely on its rich fruit; oak would simply be a distraction.R Up to 10 yearsS 1994U Steak in black bean sauceX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Woodstock Shiraz c Woodstock $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 % Woodstock &[4wine glasses] 1995 Very good purple-red; a clean bouquet of medium to full intensity with aromas of chocolate, briar and earth supported by subtle oak. The palate delivers precisely what the bouquet promises, a solid, rich traditional ultra-chocolatey McLaren Vale red wine. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Very good purple-red; a clean bouquet of medium to full intensity with aromas of chocolate, briar and earth supported by subtle oak. The palate delivers precisely what the bouquet promises, a solid, rich traditional ultra-chocolatey McLaren Vale red wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 N WoodstockP UFirst made in the 1991 vintage, and released in late 1994. It is made from century-old (99-year-old, to be precise) vines, and matured in new American oak hogsheads. The 94 vintage continues the line: very ripe, concentrated fruit with expansive use of new American oak. Made in what is now a recognised style, but certainly for oak lovers. 10 yearsS 1994U Barbecued steakX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red The Stocks Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Woodstock The Stocks Shiraz c Woodstock $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 % Woodstock 7[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; a smooth and harmonious bouquet with rich chocolate and berry fruit woven through vanilla oak. The elegant palate provides all of the flavours promised by the bouquet together with a touch of mint. I particularly like the judicious oak handling. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a smooth and harmonious bouquet with rich chocolate and berry fruit woven through vanilla oak. The elegant palate provides all of the flavours promised by the bouquet together with a touch of mint. I particularly like the judicious oak handling.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Woody NookP As the name suggests, the pick of the vintage, and winemaker Neil Gallagher certainly got it right in 1993, for this wine is far superior to the standard Cabernet Sauvignon of the same year. The 95 was placed first in the Cabernet Class at the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Competition. R 5-7 yearsS 1993U Herbed rack of lambX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Gallagher s Choice Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _0Woody Nook Gallagher s Choice Cabernet Sauvignon Woody Nook $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 Woody Nook [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is complex and powerful with a mix of earthy cabernet and cedary oak. A well-balanced palate of medium weight with cassis, leaf and cedar flavours running through a long finish. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is complex and powerful with a mix of earthy cabernet and cedary oak. A well-balanced palate of medium weight with cassis, leaf and cedar flavours running through a long finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Wynns Coonawarra EstateP A wine which has evolved dramatically over the years. 1985 was the first vintage to utilise barrel fermentation; in 1992 winemaking was moved back to Coonawarra from McLaren Vale, and French oak was introduced (previously German and American was used). By 1995 only French oak was being employed, and in 1996 the barrel size had started to change from puncheon to barrique, with tight-grained French oak. All of these changes have progressively tightened and refined a wine which deserves greatBjer recognition from critics and consumers it has, in fact, done very well in wine shows in recent years. Short term 1995U Fillet of porkX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay Wynns Coonawarra Estate $11-15 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Wynns Coonawarra Estate U[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a sophisticated bouquet, at once subtle yet complex, with melon and cashew barrel-ferment and malolactic ferment influences all at work. The fruit comes through on the palate, carrying on to the finish, with citrus and melon flavours. Not a heavyweight, but has considerable style. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a sophisticated bouquet, at once subtle yet complex, with melon and cashew barrel-ferment and malolactic ferment influences all at work. The fruit comes through on the palate, carrying on to the finish, with citrus and melon flavours. Not a heavyweight, but has considerable style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Wynns Coonawarra EstateP Estate means what it says; this is 100% estate-grown Coonawarra Shiraz, a wine which vies with Penfolds Koonunga Hill dry red for the title of best-value red wine in Australia. A vertical tasting in March 1997 climaxed with the magnificent 54 and 55 vintages. While the new generation wines may not last for 40 years, those made in the 1990s are the best since the 1950s, and the recommended drinking range should be regarded as strictly nominal. Well-corked and well-cellared, the winesB have almost indefinite life. R$Perfect each way, now or in 10 yearsS: 1994U Spiced lambX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz Wynns Coonawarra Estate $11-15 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Wynns Coonawarra Estate 1[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Strong purple-red; and exceptionally smooth and intense bouquet, with abundant rich and sweet dark cherry and plum fruit swells into a round, mouth-filling palate, showing more of the same fruit flavours tinged with spice and subtle oak, closing with soft tannins. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong purple-red; and exceptionally smooth and intense bouquet, with abundant rich and sweet dark cherry and plum fruit swells into a round, mouth-filling palate, showing more of the same fruit flavours tinged with spice and subtle oak, closing with soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Wynns Coonawarra EstateP Given the volume in which this wine is made (said to be over 40 000 cases) it has to be the most important Cabernet in Australia, a powerful testament to the synergy between Coonawarra and Cabernet Sauvignon. Another dyed-in-the-wool classic with a magnificent history. 5-20 yearsS5 1993U Roast beefX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _6Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon Wynns Coonawarra Estate $16-20 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Wynns Coonawarra Estate `[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; there is a classic mix of cassis, olive/herb and earth on the strong bouquet, with just a hint of oak. The palate is complex, with strong varietal character (olive and cassis) and exhibiting quite pronounced tannins which build on the second half of the palate. Gentle oak throughout. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; there is a classic mix of cassis, olive/herb and earth on the strong bouquet, with just a hint of oak. The palate is complex, with strong varietal character (olive and cassis) and exhibiting quite pronounced tannins which build on the second half of the palate. Gentle oak throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Wynns Coonawarra EstateP First made in the outstanding Coonawarra vintage of 1990, to stand alongside the John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon. It takes its name from the most famous of all of the Wynns wines, the glorious 1955 Michael Hermitage, which still rates as one of the top half-dozen wines made in Australia since the Second World War. A prolific trophy and gold medal winner, every bit as powerful as the Riddoch. No 95 was made or released. 15-25 yearsS 1993U Leave it in the cellarX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Michael Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _&Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz Wynns Coonawarra Estate Coonawarra t late note Changed 14/7/98 Wynns Coonawarra Estate [5wine glasses] 1994 Dense purple-red; extremely rich, ripe and concentrated mulberry and spice fruit is supported by toasty vanillin oak. The palate is every bit as concentrated and chewy as the bouquet suggests it will be, with abundant spicy berry fruit and even more abundant oak. Retasted October 1997 and developing exceptionally well, losing brashness and gaining elegance. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Dense purple-red; extremely rich, ripe and concentrated mulberry and spice fruit is supported by toasty vanillin oak. The palate is every bit as concentrated and chewy as the bouquet suggests it will be, with abundant spicy berry fruit and even more abundant oak. Retasted October 1997 and developing exceptionally well, losing brashness and gaining elegance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 YalumbaP |Deliberately and consistently made at the fuller end of the Australian sparkling wine spectrum. Always a complex, rich, mouthfilling-style, although the levels of aldehyde in the older vintages were somewhat controversial. Typically a blend of Pinot Noir from Eden Valley, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills; Chardonnay from Coonawarra and Eden Valley; and Pinot Meunier from Eden Valley. Buy the late disgorged versionsS 1993U Richer seafood dishesX 14/7/98` PN CHa Barossa Valleyb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _ Yalumba D Yalumba $26-50 Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 Yalumba [4wine glasses] 1995 Light straw-yellow; the bouquet is very restrained, with crisp apple and pear aromas predominant; some creamy autolysis evident. The palate is likewise fresh, with pronounced green apple flavours, and a crisp, fine, long finish. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Light straw-yellow; the bouquet is very restrained, with crisp apple and pear aromas predominant; some creamy autolysis evident. The palate is likewise fresh, with pronounced green apple flavours, and a crisp, fine, long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 YalumbaP An Australian Classic, dating back to 1962, but deriving from Sir Robert Menzies declaration at a lunch in Adelaide that the 61 Special Vintage Galway Claret was the finest Australian wine I have ever tasted . A blend of 65% Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% old-vine Barossa Shiraz, it spends 24 months in American oak prior to bottling, but never seems to be overwhelmed by it. The 93 was the top gold medal in its class at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show. 5-15 yearsS0 1992U Rare roast beefX 14/7/98` CS SHa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf M Signature Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _!Yalumba Signature Cabernet Shiraz Yalumba $26-50 Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 Yalumba d[4wine glasses] 1994 Peter Graugh. Strong red; an excellently rich and complex bouquet with blackberry, chocolate and earth supported by harmonious and sweet oak, and a substantial, chewy palate with an identical range of flavours. Will reach a peak somewhere over the next four or five years, but will hold that peak almost indefinitely. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Peter Graugh. Strong red; an excellently rich and complex bouquet with blackberry, chocolate and earth supported by harmonious and sweet oak, and a substantial, chewy palate with an identical range of flavours. Will reach a peak somewhere over the next four or five years, but will hold that peak almost indefinitely.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Yarra EdgeP 27Q{Made entirely from estate-grown fruit, and in years such as 94 and 96 provided a very rich, concentrated wine. R 3-5 yearsS Smoked salmon pastaX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Yarra Edge Chardonnay Yarra Edge $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Yarra Edge &[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is tangy and complex, with some bottle-developed characters already evident, and concentrated melon aromas. The palate is rich and mouthfilling, almost syrupy, with peachy/buttery fruit in typical Yarra Edge-style. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is tangy and complex, with some bottle-developed characters already evident, and concentrated melon aromas. The palate is rich and mouthfilling, almost syrupy, with peachy/buttery fruit in typical Yarra Edge-style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Yarra RidgeP A consistent wine which is a testament to the winemaking and wine-production skills of winemaker Rob Dolan, particularly given the requirements of batch bottling and the limited size of the winery relative to its total production. Perfect wine for the caf set. Largely irrelevantS 1995U Scallops, musselsX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Yarra Ridge Chardonnay Yarra Ridge $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Yarra Ridge [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with melon and fig fruit, and even more obvious charry American oak. The palate is lively, but the American oak seems much more obvious and aggressive than it has in previous vintages. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with melon and fig fruit, and even more obvious charry American oak. The palate is lively, but the American oak seems much more obvious and aggressive than it has in previous vintages.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Yarra RidgeP TAnchored in the Yarra Valley, and with a Reserve Pinot Noir recently added to the range, albeit in small quantities. One of the lesser lights in the Yarra Ridge stable, but always a pleasant wine. The 96 vintage received the trophy for Best Varietal Pinot Noir at the 1997 Royal Sydney Wine Show; in my view the 97 is an even better wine. R Drink nowS 1996U PoultryX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Yarra Ridge Pinot Noir Yarra Ridge $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Yarra Ridge ![4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full red; a ripe, rich, plummy/gamey bouquet with lots of stuffing in typical 97 style is followed by a powerful, stylish, multiflavoured palate. Here, plum, berry, spice and forest all intermingle, supported by very clever oak handling. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red; a ripe, rich, plummy/gamey bouquet with lots of stuffing in typical 97 style is followed by a powerful, stylish, multiflavoured palate. Here, plum, berry, spice and forest all intermingle, supported by very clever oak handling.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Yarra RidgeP This wine was largely responsible for the initial phenomenal growth of Yarra Ridge. Ironically, the early vintages were from the Yarra Valley; the wine now has a broader geographic base, the back label for the 97 stating that it comes from the Yarra Valley blended with smaller parcels from other cooler regions in Victoria. Just which regions are cooler than the Yarra Valley I am not sure. R Drink nowS 1996U Fish and chipsX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Yarra Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Yarra Ridge $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Yarra Ridge [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft, with gently tropical fruit aromas, and somewhat attenuated varietal character. The palate delivers more of the same; an easy drinking wine which will certainly not frighten the horses. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft, with gently tropical fruit aromas, and somewhat attenuated varietal character. The palate delivers more of the same; an easy drinking wine which will certainly not frighten the horses.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Yarra YeringP Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, with small quantities of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, and a tiny contribution of Petit Verdot. Entirely estate-grown from low-yielding, unirrigated vines, and matured in high-quality new French oak.R 10+ yearsS+ 1993, 1994U Roast leg of lambX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Dry Red No 1 Cabernet Blends Z Australia Yarra Yering Dry Red No 1 Yarra Yering $21-25 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 Yarra Yering [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is ripe and full, with strong Cabernet varietal aromas; cassis and earth. The palate is powerful and well structured, with potent blackberry and cassis fruit, the oak immaculately balanced and integrated. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is ripe and full, with strong Cabernet varietal aromas; cassis and earth. The palate is powerful and well structured, with potent blackberry and cassis fruit, the oak immaculately balanced and integrated.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Yarra YeringP Predominantly Shiraz, with a little Viognier and a few scraps of other things from time to time. Entirely estate-grown, of course, and produced from vines which are now over 25 years old.R 10+ yearsS+ 1993, 1994U Beef bourguignonX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Dry Red No 2 Shiraz Blends Z Australia Yarra Yering Dry Red No 2 Yarra Yering $21-25 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 Yarra Yering [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; the bouquet is redolent with glossy minty/cherry shiraz varietal fruit, the palate with abundant ripe fruit, balanced by a hint of leaf and briar, but, interestingly, no spice. Lingering acidity on the finish. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the bouquet is redolent with glossy minty/cherry shiraz varietal fruit, the palate with abundant ripe fruit, balanced by a hint of leaf and briar, but, interestingly, no spice. Lingering acidity on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Yarra YeringP Made entirely from the former Prigorje Vineyard, which adjoins that of Yarra Yering and is now, indeed, part of the Yarra Yering estate and has been so for some years. Here, too, the vines are old, low-yielding and unirrigated.R 5-7 yearsS 1993U Kraft Victorian parmesanX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M Underhill Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Yarra Yering Underhill Shiraz Yarra Yering $21-25 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 Yarra Yering a[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet shows a mix of spice, berry, leaf and cherry fruit, the oak evident but restrained. The palate has a light texture, with cherry and spice fruit, and will build complexity, and quite possibly weight, as it ages. As with all the Yarra Yering 96 wines, tasted within weeks of bottling. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet shows a mix of spice, berry, leaf and cherry fruit, the oak evident but restrained. The palate has a light texture, with cherry and spice fruit, and will build complexity, and quite possibly weight, as it ages. As with all the Yarra Yering 96 wines, tasted within weeks of bottling.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 YeringbergP Produced from the half-hectare of estate plantings, and made in necessarily very limited quantities. This restricts its opportunity for show entries, but it has been a consistent trophy and gold medal winner at the Lilydale Wine Show.R 4-7 yearsS! 1996U SweetbreadsX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Yeringberg Chardonnay Yeringberg $26-50 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 Yeringberg [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Brilliant green-yellow; clean and smooth, with melon, fig and subtle oak aromas of medium intensity. The palate is elegant, but long, with as-yet delicate melon and white peach fruit; certain to develop well. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Brilliant green-yellow; clean and smooth, with melon, fig and subtle oak aromas of medium intensity. The palate is elegant, but long, with as-yet delicate melon and white peach fruit; certain to develop well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 YeringbergP nProduced from an estate-grown blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec (with Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, and the other components in descending order as listed). The vineyard is established on the precise site of the great nineteenth-century plantings, albeit but a fraction of the size of those vineyards, enjoying a prime north-facing slope. R 20+ yearsS! 1994U Yarra Valley venisonX 14/7/98` CS MT CF MAa Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Dry Red Cabernet Blends Z Australia Yeringberg Dry Red Yeringberg $26-50 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 Yeringberg [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; the bouquet is distinctly herbaceous, with leafy/earthy fruit, but the palate has surprisingly good mouthfeel, smooth and gentle with savoury red berry, leaf and mint flavours. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is distinctly herbaceous, with leafy/earthy fruit, but the palate has surprisingly good mouthfeel, smooth and gentle with savoury red berry, leaf and mint flavours.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Stumpy GullyP 15Q9Made in the modern style, without oak and early bottled. R Drink nowS 1996U Moreton Bay bugsX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Stumpy Gully Sauvignon Blanc Stumpy Gully $11-15 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Stumpy Gully ![3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with relatively soft but pleasant varietal character in a lighter mould. The palate has more mouthfeel, length and intensity than the bouquet suggests, tangy and crisp, with lemon and herb flavours. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with relatively soft but pleasant varietal character in a lighter mould. The palate has more mouthfeel, length and intensity than the bouquet suggests, tangy and crisp, with lemon and herb flavours.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Zema EstateP +So far as I know, the only dryland, hand-pruned and hand-picked vineyard in Coonawarra. This very conservative approach to viticulture has paid big dividends, with outstanding wines produced consistently over the past 15 years. Matured for 16 months in a mix of French and American oak, mostly used. Up to 10 yearsS 1994U Bistecca FiorentinaX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Zema Estate Shiraz Zema Estate $16-20 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Zema Estate H[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the intense bouquet is clean, with powerful black cherry and earth shiraz varietal character; the palate smooth, rich and mouthfilling, running through black cherry, earth, a touch of chocolate and the barest hint of oak. Overall, has a deliciously silky feel. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the intense bouquet is clean, with powerful black cherry and earth shiraz varietal character; the palate smooth, rich and mouthfilling, running through black cherry, earth, a touch of chocolate and the barest hint of oak. Overall, has a deliciously silky feel.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Zema EstateP Just as is the case with the Shiraz, produced from dryland, hand-pruned, hand-picked vines. A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine, matured in small French and American wood, but with the fruit rather than the oak driving the wine. R 5-10 yearsS 1994U Barbecued lambX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Zema Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Zema Estate $16-20 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Zema Estate $[5wine glasses] 1996 Tremendous depth to the colour; the bouquet is powerful and intense, with blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, the palate luscious yet not jammy; here blackberry and cassis fruit ripples through a sweet mid-palate closing with fine tannins and subtle oak. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Tremendous depth to the colour; the bouquet is powerful and intense, with blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, the palate luscious yet not jammy; here blackberry and cassis fruit ripples through a sweet mid-palate closing with fine tannins and subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Arthurs CreekP 25.35 Since 1992 the winemaking has been carried out by Mitchelton; at the 1994 Victorian Wine Show the 92 Cabernet Sauvignon won the top gold medal in Class 22 (1992 and older Cabernets), the 1992 won a silver medal in Class 18, while the 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon was awarded the trophy for Best Cabernet Sauvignon of Show. One is never quite sure which vintage of Arthurs Creek will be on sale at any one time, but as at early 1998 the 93 and 94 were available, the 95 coming up. Up to 10 years or moreS& 1992U Lamb filletsX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _ Arthurs Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Arthurs Creek Estate $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Arthurs Creek Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1993 Strong, deep and bright red-purple; the bouquet is powerful and dense, with a mix of blackberry, olive, forest and earth aromas; very powerful and concentrated blackberry, chocolate and earth fruit flavours on the palate finish with strong but fine tannins. RATING: 93 [4.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; smooth, blackberry fruit with slightly foresty/briary characters on the bouquet leads into a powerful, concentrated, almost tangy palate with blackber Rry, briar and mint flavours, and those hallmark tannins on the finish. RATING: 91 [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; a clean but dense bouquet with blackberry, cassis, chocolate and ripe mint fruit is followed by a wine with wonderful mouthfeel and richness, and sweet, fine tannins running throughout. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1993 <f"Bembo">Strong, deep and bright red-purple; the bouquet is powerful and dense, with a mix of blackberry, olive, forest and earth aromas; very powerful and concentrated blackberry, chocolate and earth fruit flavours on the palate finish with strong but fine tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; smooth, blackberry fruit with slightly foresty/briary characters on the bouquet leads into a powerful, concentrated, almost tangy palate with blackberry, briar and mint flavours, and those hallmark tannins on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a clean but dense bouquet with blackberry, cassis, chocolate and ripe mint fruit is followed by a wine with wonderful mouthfeel and richness, and sweet, fine tannins running throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f "Bembo">92 Clover HillP A Chardonnay-predominant style given not less than 24 months on yeast lees, and invariably clean, fresh and finishing with pronounced acidity a testament to the very cool climate in which the grapes are grown.R Not necessaryS 1993U Caviar, shellfishX 14/7/98` Northern Tasmaniab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Clover Hill X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Clover Hill Clover Hill $26-50 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Clover Hill F[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium yellow-green, with good mousse; the bouquet is firm, but complex with mineral, citrus, toast and bready/biscuit aromas all present. The palate opens with lemon, citrus and mineral flavours before finishing with bracing acidity. Will undoubtedly benefit from a year or two on cork. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green, with good mousse; the bouquet is firm, but complex with mineral, citrus, toast and bready/biscuit aromas all present. The palate opens with lemon, citrus and mineral flavours before finishing with bracing acidity. Will undoubtedly benefit from a year or two on cork.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Coolangatta EstateP RNamed after Alexander Berry, who with Edward Wollstonecraft obtained a grant of 10 000 acres and 100 convicts in 1822, building their settlement on the foothills of a mountain named Coolangatta, an Aboriginal word meaning fine view . Unlike the Verdelho, Chambourcin and Cabernet Shiraz, no claim to be estate-grown is made on the label. Up to 5 yearsS 1996U Avocado and seafoodX 14/7/98` Shoalhavenb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Alexander Berry Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _-Coolangatta Estate Alexander Berry Chardonnay Coolangatta Estate $16-20 South Coast Zone 14/7/98 Coolangatta Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Full yellow; the bouquet shows distinctly soft peachy/buttery fruit and the barest hint of oak. The palate follows down the same track, with soft, easy drinking peachy flavours and appropriately gentle oak. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Full yellow; the bouquet shows distinctly soft peachy/buttery fruit and the barest hint of oak. The palate follows down the same track, with soft, easy drinking peachy flavours and appropriately gentle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Eurunderee FlatsP Fermented in open vats and spends 12 months in American oak. A rustic wine, but with plenty of flavour. Graced with the observation, Our reputation s on the vine 10 yearsS U Beef stewX 14/7/98` SH MTa Mudgeeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Eurunderee Flats Shiraz Eurunderee Flats Winery $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 Eurunderee Flats Winery [2.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet shows quite rich and ripe dark chocolate and earth fruit aromas; there are similar chocolatey flavours on the palate; some volatile lift runs through the wine, which finishes with soft tannins. RATING: 74 @BM bold:XXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet shows quite rich and ripe dark chocolate and earth fruit aromas; there are similar chocolatey flavours on the palate; some volatile lift runs through the wine, which finishes with soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">74 N DalfarrasP 14.95 Not all of the Dalfarras wines seem as different in style from those of Chateau Tahbilk as one might expect, but this wine does fit that description, being thoroughly modern rather than thoroughly traditional. A blend of Goulburn Valley and McLaren Vale material, reflecting the partnership between Alister Purbrick and Geoff Merrill. The 96 was the top gold medal winner in the Sauvignon Blanc Class at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show. R Drink nowS 1996U Smoked eelX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Dalfarras Sauvignon Blanc c Dalfarras $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 % Dalfarras [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a light, fresh and clean bouquet with gently herbaceous varietal fruit, and a quite flavoursome palate, with a mix of gooseberry, passionfruit and more herbal flavours. A solid follow-up to the 96. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a light, fresh and clean bouquet with gently herbaceous varietal fruit, and a quite flavoursome palate, with a mix of gooseberry, passionfruit and more herbal flavours. A solid follow-up to the 96.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Lenswood VineyardsP Produced from 2.2 hectares of estate vineyards planted in 1981 and 1984. Only the best wine is chosen for release under the Lenswood Vineyards label, the remainder being disposed of elsewhere. The few releases to date have been of very high quality.R Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Terrine of smoked salmonX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Lenswood Vineyards Chardonnay Lenswood Vineyards $26-50 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Lenswood Vineyards [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; an exceedingly complex wine on both bouquet and palate, with cashew/mealy malolactic fermentation characters to the fore, and likewise fairly pronounced oak. One can see why the malolactic fermentation was employed, as there is quite pronounced acidity on the finish of the wine, which will almost certainly settle down with further time. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; an exceedingly complex wine on both bouquet and palate, with cashew/mealy malolactic fermentation characters to the fore, and likewise fairly pronounced oak. One can see why the malolactic fermentation was employed, as there is quite pronounced acidity on the finish of the wine, which will almost certainly settle down with further time.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Lenswood VineyardsP Since a stellar debut in 1990, has been quite outstanding, significantly outperforming other producers in the region, and leaving no doubt that the Lenswood area will in time become a most important producer of Pinot Noir. As Tim Knappstein himself observes, the style is fuller, riper and more robust than that of the Yarra Valley. It has found much favour, and the Lenswood Pinots have established themselves as leading examples of the fuller style of Australian Pinot Noir. The 96 won a numB,ber of major awards and gold medals in 1997. R 2-5 yearsS 1995U Quail, hareX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Lenswood Vineyards Pinot Noir Lenswood Vineyards $26-50 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Lenswood Vineyards [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Incredibly deep, dense red-purple; the bouquet is as concentrated, powerful and as dense as the colour promises, with strong plummy fruit. A wine which takes no prisoners on the palate, again with massively concentrated plummy varietal fruit, and strong tannins to boot. Robert Parker would just love this wine. Gold medal winner 1997 Adelaide Hills Regional Wine Show. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Incredibly deep, dense red-purple; the bouquet is as concentrated, powerful and as dense as the colour promises, with strong plummy fruit. A wine which takes no prisoners on the palate, again with massively concentrated plummy varietal fruit, and strong tannins to boot. Robert Parker would just love this wine. Gold medal winner 1997 Adelaide Hills Regional Wine Show.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Old Kent RiverP 15.50 Like the Pinot Noir, made at Alkoomi. Here the oak works much better than it does with the Pinot Noir, producing an attractive barrel-ferment style.R 3-4 yearsS 1995U Chicken breastX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Old Kent River Chardonnay Old Kent River $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Old Kent River ,[3wine glasses] 1997 Bright light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with the palate light, fresh and elegant, with melon and white peach fruit. However, there is a touch of burnt match on the bouquet which really does detract from what is otherwise a nice wine. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with the palate light, fresh and elegant, with melon and white peach fruit. However, there is a touch of burnt match on the bouquet which really does detract from what is otherwise a nice wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Old Kent RiverP Replete with the striking label (a photograph of a dead jarrah tree taken by Mark s brother Ken) the wine invariably has strong colour and solid, ripe flavours, notwithstanding the generous yields. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Pasta, cheeseX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Old Kent River Pinot Noir Old Kent River $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Old Kent River [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is spicy, with stemmy earthy aromas and what the Americans call 'tomato vine' character. The palate shows positive varietal character, with some maceration characters, but again those slightly spiky-green characters of the fruit come through. You just wonder whether a bit too much maceration was used. Certainly in very different style to some of the earlier vintages. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is spicy, with stemmy earthy aromas and what the Americans call 'tomato vine' character. The palate shows positive varietal character, with some maceration characters, but again those slightly spiky-green characters of the fruit come through. You just wonder whether a bit too much maceration was used. Certainly in very different style to some of the earlier vintages.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">7B AlkoomiP Produced from 5 hectares of estate plantings, and barrel-fermented and matured in a mixture of oak, predominantly French Nevers and Vosges from Seguin Moreau. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U#Stir-fried chicken with cashew nutsX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Alkoomi Chardonnay Alkoomi $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 Alkoomi [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a fragrant bouquet with fine melon, citrus and sweet apple fruit aromas is followed by a deliciously fruit-driven palate ranging through melon, apple and cinnamon (the latter from oak); harmonious finish. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a fragrant bouquet with fine melon, citrus and sweet apple fruit aromas is followed by a deliciously fruit-driven palate ranging through melon, apple and cinnamon (the latter from oak); harmonious finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 AlkoomiP Typically a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec and 5% Merlot; matured for almost two years in a mix of new (30%) and used French oak.R 10 yearsS! 1994U Rare rump steakX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Alkoomi Cabernet Sauvignon Alkoomi $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 Alkoomi [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with a mix of olive, leaf, briar and earth aromas. There are tight red berry and olive fruit flavours on the palate, supported by cedary oak and fine tannins. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with a mix of olive, leaf, briar and earth aromas. There are tight red berry and olive fruit flavours on the palate, supported by cedary oak and fine tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 AlkoomiP A blend of 60% Semillon, 25% Chardonnay and 15% Sauvignon Blanc, following more or less in the footsteps of the classic white Margaret River blends. It is deliberately aimed at the mid-market, made without oak but with appreciable residual sugar.R Drink nowS 1996U Pasta carbonaraX 14/7/98` SE CH SBa Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Classic White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Alkoomi Classic White Alkoomi $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Alkoomi [3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a quite fragrant bouquet with a mix of passionfruit and gooseberry aromas, though not particularly intense. There is more of the same on a relatively light-bodied but pleasantly commercial palate. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a quite fragrant bouquet with a mix of passionfruit and gooseberry aromas, though not particularly intense. There is more of the same on a relatively light-bodied but pleasantly commercial palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Canobolas-SmithP Produced from 2.2 hectares of estate plantings at an elevation of 820 metres on Mount Canobolas. The vines are not irrigated, and are grown on red volcanic soils. Each vintage has shown distinct improvement, the 95 and 96 being the best yet.R 1-2 yearsS 1995U PastaX 14/7/98` Orangeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Canobolas-Smith Chardonnay Canobolas-Smith $16-20 Orange 14/7/98 Canobolas-Smith )[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet shows strong barrel ferment inputs, nutty and rich; the palate retains some elegance, notwithstanding the quite assertive barrel-ferment oak characters. There are white peach flavours and the wine has moderate length. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet shows strong barrel ferment inputs, nutty and rich; the palate retains some elegance, notwithstanding the quite assertive barrel-ferment oak characters. There are white peach flavours and the wine has moderate length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Cape ClairaultP 15.75 cCape Clairault has a little over 3 hectares of sauvignon blanc, which in turn accounts for almost one-third of its total plantings. It is, of course, a variety which does very well in the Margaret River region, and provides Cape Clairault with its flagship wine. Over the years some excellent Sauvignon Blancs have been produced under the Clairault label. R 1-2 yearsS 1996U ShellfishX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Cape Clairault Sauvignon Blanc Cape Clairault $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 Cape Clairault 7[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; has slightly more bite in a mineral/herbal spectrum than the Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, but in similar style. The palate is firmly but not aggressively structured, with herb and gooseberry flavours on a long finish with very good mouthfeel. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; has slightly more bite in a mineral/herbal spectrum than the Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, but in similar style. The palate is firmly but not aggressively structured, with herb and gooseberry flavours on a long finish with very good mouthfeel. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Cape ClairaultP A blend of 70% Semillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc. Ten per cent of the wine was matured in new French oak, which adds to the texture rather than altering the flavour.R 2-3 yearsS 1996U Seafood saladX 14/7/98` SE SBa Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _'Cape Clairault Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Cape Clairault $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 Cape Clairault ![4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a most attractive bouquet, with pleasantly sweet fruit ranging through lemon and gooseberry. The palate provides more of the same, with gooseberry and passionfruit characters giving most appealing flavour; good length. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a most attractive bouquet, with pleasantly sweet fruit ranging through lemon and gooseberry. The palate provides more of the same, with gooseberry and passionfruit characters giving most appealing flavour; good length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 A variable blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, which differs greatly according to the vintage. The philosophy is simply to come up with the best wine from the available components. In 1995 the wine was 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Margaret River ChevreX 14/7/98` CS MTa Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red The Clairault Cabernet Blends Z Australia The Clairault Cape Clairault $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Cape Clairault @[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a complex and concentrated bouquet, with earthy berry fruit and touches of sweet oak. The quite powerful palate is basically in a briary/earthy mode, although there are some mint and red berry fruit flavours present. Just a fraction abrasive in its presentation. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a complex and concentrated bouquet, with earthy berry fruit and touches of sweet oak. The quite powerful palate is basically in a briary/earthy mode, although there are some mint and red berry fruit flavours present. Just a fraction abrasive in its presentation.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Castle Rock Estate Consistently the best of the Castle Rock Estate wines, and ages wonderfully well. It is easy to overlook the wine in its youth, when it is typically very toasty, very crisp and on the lean side, but flowers with age. The lesson has been learnt again and again, with four- and five-year vertical tastings producing the same result: the wines age superbly, gaining progressively higher points the older they are. In a mini-vertical tasting in January 1998 the point scores for the older vintages BDwent as follows: 98 points; 90 points; 92 points. 5-10 yearsS& 1996U Seafood saladX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Castle Rock Estate Riesling Castle Rock Estate $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Castle Rock Estate )[4wine glasses] 1997 Light straw-green; the bouquet is, as always, light, faintly spicy and with faint wafts of passionfruit. The palate is very well balanced with lime, spice and mineral flavours, and a spotlessly clean, low phenolic finish. Fresh acid guarantees its longevity. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light straw-green; the bouquet is, as always, light, faintly spicy and with faint wafts of passionfruit. The palate is very well balanced with lime, spice and mineral flavours, and a spotlessly clean, low phenolic finish. Fresh acid guarantees its longevity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 ChatsfieldP By no means a flashy wine, made in a reserved style, and unequivocally showing its cool climate background, often seeming more like a cross between Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay than anything else. Will mature well with age.R Up to 5 yearsS 1993U Smoked salmon 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Chatsfield Chardonnay Chatsfield $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Chatsfield I[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; gentle fig and cashew fruit is neatly picked up by an attractive hint of spicy oak on a bouquet of light to medium intensity. The palate is well made and balanced, picking up on the finish with a tweak of crisp acidity and spicy oak; not a blockbuster but will develop. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; gentle fig and cashew fruit is neatly picked up by an attractive hint of spicy oak on a bouquet of light to medium intensity. The palate is well made and balanced, picking up on the finish with a tweak of crisp acidity and spicy oak; not a blockbuster but will develop.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 ChatsfieldP 17QtHas been the star performer for Chatsfield in most vintages, coming from vineyards which are more than 20 years old.R 5-7 yearsS 1994U%Mature cheddar, finer red meat dishesX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Chatsfield Shiraz Chatsfield $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Chatsfield s[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; an intriguing wine on the bouquet showing what seem to be some quite developed characters, although they are varietal, falling in the leafy/forest/spice/game spectrum. Initially a little light and flat on the palate, but evolved in the glass, with black cherry, spice and game flavours progressively unfolding. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; an intriguing wine on the bouquet showing what seem to be some quite developed characters, although they are varietal, falling in the leafy/forest/spice/game spectrum. Initially a little light and flat on the palate, but evolved in the glass, with black cherry, spice and game flavours progressively unfolding. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 ChatsfieldP The wine is challenging, because it is fermented in tank and taken straight to bottle, without any wood maturation at any stage. R Drink now 1996U Breast of duckX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Franc Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Chatsfield Cabernet Franc Chatsfield $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Chatsfield [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium red-purple; a clean and fragrant bouquet, with lively raspberry and almost citrussy aromas. The palate shows very attractive varietal character through to the mid palate, but does have a slight leafy bitterness on the finish, perhaps the penalty of taking the wine direct from stainless steel to bottle, but this is the well established style of the wine. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-purple; a clean and fragrant bouquet, with lively raspberry and almost citrussy aromas. The palate shows very attractive varietal character through to the mid palate, but does have a slight leafy bitterness on the finish, perhaps the penalty of taking the wine direct from stainless steel to bottle, but this is the well established style of the wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Clarendon HillsP Often the best of the current releases of Clarendon Hills, for while it is immensely concentrated and powerful, it is possible both to see the superb varietal fruit which has gone to make the wine, and impossible not to consider drinking it. R 7-12 yearsS 1995U Venison, gameX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Clarendon Hills Shiraz Clarendon Hills Winery McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Clarendon Hills Winery <[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid and dense, with potent briary/chocolatey fruit and oak in restraint. The palate opens with ripe briary berry fruit, and closes with formidable, indeed ferocious, tannins. Like big Italian reds, calls out for rich red meat dishes. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid and dense, with potent briary/chocolatey fruit and oak in restraint. The palate opens with ripe briary berry fruit, and closes with formidable, indeed ferocious, tannins. Like big Italian reds, calls out for rich red meat dishes.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Clarendon HillsP Roman Bratasiuk achieves things with Merlot that no one else can imitate. Whether this is a good thing or not is an interesting question. R 10+ yearsS 1995U Char-grilled rare rumpX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Clarendon Hills Merlot Clarendon Hills Winery McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Clarendon Hills Winery j[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a tremendously powerful, concentrated and dense bouquet with a mix of earthy, briary and spicy notes foreshadows an ultra-powerful palate which takes no prisoners. There is so much structure there, it is hard to see the flesh or really understand where the wine will head over the next ten years. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a tremendously powerful, concentrated and dense bouquet with a mix of earthy, briary and spicy notes foreshadows an ultra-powerful palate which takes no prisoners. There is so much structure there, it is hard to see the flesh or really understand where the wine will head over the next ten years.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Clarendon HillsP fGrenache can all too easily make flabby, cloying sickly sweet red wine, which in many ways is the correlative of unwooded Chardonnay, and is no more attractive, but I remain to be convinced that it is necessary to invest Grenache with as much tannin and structure as one finds in this wine, old vines notwithstanding. Nonetheless, compelling and interesting. 20 yearsS 1995U Dinosaur rumpX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M Old Vines Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _"Clarendon Hills Old Vines Grenache Clarendon Hills Winery McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Clarendon Hills Winery [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet shows good varietal character with sweet, ripe powerful fruit, and just a hint of volatility. The palate starts with powerful, concentrated juicy berry fruit, then runs into mouth-ripping tannins. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet shows good varietal character with sweet, ripe powerful fruit, and just a hint of volatility. The palate starts with powerful, concentrated juicy berry fruit, then runs into mouth-ripping tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 HenschkeP In the year 1982 the Henschke family acquired a 14-hectare apple orchard at Lenswood, high in the southern end of the Adelaide Hills at an altitude of 550 metres. The first significant vintage was 1989, but production overall is limited. The Green s Hill Riesling, which overlooks the apple orchards operated by the Green family since 1893, is a marvellous example of cool climate Riesling, intense yet generous. The 95 vintage was the only gold medal winner in the Riesling Class at the 1996 B#Adelaide Hills Regional Wine Show. R 2-5 yearsS 1995U Smoked trout p 14/7/98` Eden Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Green s Hill Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Henschke Green s Hill Riesling Henschke $16-20 Adelaide Hills t late note 14/7/98 Henschke [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a rich bouquet with full lime pastille fruit and a commensurately generous and rich palate with abundant fruit weight, intensity and length, the flavours falling in the same spectrum as those of the bouquet. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a rich bouquet with full lime pastille fruit and a commensurately generous and rich palate with abundant fruit weight, intensity and length, the flavours falling in the same spectrum as those of the bouquet.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 HenschkeP 52.80 The evocatively named Abbott s Prayer links the history, religion and pioneers of the Adelaide Hills. Right from the first vintage, this Merlot-dominant blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc has been of exceptional quality. The 94 carried on the trophy-winning tradition, winning the trophy for Best Red Wine at the 1997 Adelaide Hills Wine Show. Unusually for Henschke, it is matured entirely in French oak. R 3-6 yearsS 1994U Guinea fowl in red wine sauceX 14/7/98` MT CSa Eden Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Abbott s Prayer Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _(Henschke Abbott s Prayer Cabernet Merlot Henschke Adelaide Hills t late note Changed 14/7/98 Henschke [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; fragrant aromas of cedar, spice, earth and leaf are followed by a fine, but relatively light-bodied palate, without the lovely sweet fruit of the best vintages. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; fragrant aromas of cedar, spice, earth and leaf are followed by a fine, but relatively light-bodied palate, without the lovely sweet fruit of the best vintages.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 HenschkeP 30.30 Not, as the label might half suggest, a single vineyard or estate wine in the classic sense of that term, but rather a blend of 70% Shiraz, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec grown in the Eden and Barossa Valleys. It is made in the traditional Henschke fashion in open fermenters, and matured in new and used American and French oak for 12 months. It may not be the greatest of the Henschke red wines, but frequently offers the best value for money. 1994U Veal chopsX 14/7/98` SH CS MAa Eden Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Keyneton Estate Shiraz Cabernet Malbec Shiraz Blends Z Australia _/Henschke Keyneton Estate Shiraz Cabernet Malbec Henschke $26-50 Eden Valley t late note 14/7/98 Henschke [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; a powerful yet exceptionally smooth bouquet with dark berry and savoury/leafy aromas. The palate has flavours of blackcurrant, plum and mint, showing ripeness and sweetness; subtle oak. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a powerful yet exceptionally smooth bouquet with dark berry and savoury/leafy aromas. The palate has flavours of blackcurrant, plum and mint, showing ripeness and sweetness; subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 HenschkeP Made entirely from 100-year-old shiraz vines on the Hill of Grace Vineyard, planted in the late 1860s by a Henschke ancestor, Nicholas Stanitzki. Is second only to Penfolds Grange, which it rivals in terms of quality, scarcity and (almost) price. The wine has never been entered in wine shows, nor will it ever be: it has its own standards. Its soaring retail price bears testament to the public esteem in which the wine is rightly held. 10-20+ yearsS: 1993U Rich casserole dishesX 14/7/98` Eden Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Hill Of Grace Shiraz Z Australia Henschke Hill Of Grace Henschke Eden Valley t late note 14/7/98 Henschke [5wine glasses] 1993 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is essentially fruit-driven, with utterly classic varietal character showing a range of liquorice, earth and black cherry aromas supported by subtle oak. A mouthfilling and luscious wine, with wonderfully rich liquorice and dark chocolate fruit, supported by an echo of vanillin oak. A wine which comes again and again as you taste it. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1993 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is essentially fruit-driven, with utterly classic varietal character showing a range of liquorice, earth and black cherry aromas supported by subtle oak. A mouthfilling and luscious wine, with wonderfully rich liquorice and dark chocolate fruit, supported by an echo of vanillin oak. A wine which comes again and again as you taste it.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 HenschkeP 52.80 ZMade entirely from shiraz grown on the Mount Edelstone Vineyard, planted in the 1920s and acquired by Henschke in 1974, although the wine was first made (and labelled as such) in 1952. A wine of tremendous character and quality. The price is rapidly being pulled upwards by the Hill of Grace, but, here too, the wine quality justifies the price. 7-15 yearsSD 1994U Beef bourguignonX 14/7/98` Eden Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Mount Edelstone Shiraz Z Australia Henschke Mount Edelstone Henschke Eden Valley t late note 14/7/98 Henschke [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; a complex bouquet, with fragrant, spice, liquorice, earth and charry oak aromas all intermingling. The palate, too, is multiflavoured, with black cherry, liquorice and charry oak flavours. Fine tannins. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a complex bouquet, with fragrant, spice, liquorice, earth and charry oak aromas all intermingling. The palate, too, is multiflavoured, with black cherry, liquorice and charry oak flavours. Fine tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 HenschkeP 74.70 The 1978 vintage was the first release in 1980, made by Stephen Henschke in memory of his father who had died the previous year. Now a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc sourced from the Eden Valley. A prolific trophy and gold medal winner at national wine shows. Undoubtedly one of the three top Henschke wines, and among the best Cabernets in Australia. 6-12 yearsS0 1993U Roast lambX 14/7/98` Eden Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _*Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon Henschke Eden Valley t late note 14/7/98 Henschke h[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the charry oak which is evident in the other Henschke 95 wines, but which seems better-suited there, seems to bite somewhat on both the bouquet and palate of this wine. The palate flavours are of mint, red berry and leaf; again, a wine which seems distinctly off the pace of the best vintages. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the charry oak which is evident in the other Henschke 95 wines, but which seems better-suited there, seems to bite somewhat on both the bouquet and palate of this wine. The palate flavours are of mint, red berry and leaf; again, a wine which seems distinctly off the pace of the best vintages.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 HardysP A wine with a long and distinguished pedigree, going back to the early 1970s when a youthful Brian Croser briefly served as chief white winemaker. Then one of Hardys premium wines, it is now mainstream commercial, but holds its market share simply because it is a good wine at the price. It is made from Clare Valley and Padthaway grapes, both premium regions, the Clare Valley particularly noted for its Riesling. R 2-4 yearsS 1996U Scallop and vegetable terrineX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Siegersdorf Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Hardys Siegersdorf Riesling Hardys e under $10 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Hardys [2.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a very broad, advanced and developed bouquet, looking more like a 95 or 96 vintage wine is followed by a heavy palate which would appear to contain a lot of pressings material. RATING: 73 @BM bold:XXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a very broad, advanced and developed bouquet, looking more like a 95 or 96 vintage wine is followed by a heavy palate which would appear to contain a lot of pressings material.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">73 HardysP 13.99Q A new product introduced for the 95 vintage, with the inevitable new, avant-garde label. More importantly, it is one of the better unwooded Chardonnays, and a powerful testament to the quality of Chardonnay from Padthaway.R Short termS 1995U MusselsX 14/7/98` CHa Padthawayb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) M Padthaway Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Hardys Padthaway Unwooded Chardonnay Hardys (Padthaway) $11-15 r Padthaway t late note 14/7/98 Hardys [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a fresh, fragrant bouquet with crisp citrussy fruit aromas; the palate is light, with melon and citrus flavours and that faintly confectionery character of unwooded Chardonnay. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a fresh, fragrant bouquet with crisp citrussy fruit aromas; the palate is light, with melon and citrus flavours and that faintly confectionery character of unwooded Chardonnay.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 HardysP Prior to the release of the 94 vintage, one might have argued whether or not the wine has a sufficient track record or distinction to justify its rating as a classic, but is a more than usually elegant wine, and some of the early vintages have aged with far greater distinction than most Australian Chardonnays. However, the shift from Padthaway to a Yarra Valley base, coupled with refinements to the winemaking used, has resulted in a great wine. The difficult 95 vintage pushed Eileen Hard y back to a Padthaway, Yarra Valley and Adelaide Hills base. The even better 96 (a multiple trophy winner at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show, including the Max Schubert Trophy for Best Wine of Show) boasting an even more diverse geographic base, including the Canberra District. It added another trophy to the cabinet with The Regent Wine Trophy for the Best Previous Vintage and Older Premium White Wine at the 1998 Royal Sydney Wine Show. R 3-6 yearsS! 1995U Fresh Atlantic salmonX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Eileen Hardy Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Hardys Eileen Hardy Chardonnay Hardys $26-50 McLaren Vale t late note 14/7/98 Hardys [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; an ultra-sophisticated wine from start to finish, showing enormously skilled use of oak and malolactic fermentation to add texture and character to the peach and citrus fruit. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; an ultra-sophisticated wine from start to finish, showing enormously skilled use of oak and malolactic fermentation to add texture and character to the peach and citrus fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 HardysP 54.99 If one includes the 1970 in the range, a wine with a proud history. As is the case with Wynns Michael Hermitage, the reincarnation bears little or no resemblance to the original model, but in common with Michael Hermitage, reflects a determination to produce the best (some would say the biggest) possible wine. A blend of Padthaway and McLaren Vale Shiraz which spends two years in French and American oak, and has been a prolific trophy and gold medal winner in wine shows in recent years. R 10+ yearsS 1994U Game pieX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Eileen Hardy Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Hardys Eileen Hardy Shiraz Hardys McLaren Vale t late note 14/7/98 Hardys z[5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full purple-red; a rich and full bouquet with masses of ripe black fruits, dark chocolate and some liquorice; the oak is potent, but is justified. A wine which takes no prisoners, but which has fantastic palate flavour, bursting with liquorice, black cherry/berry and spice flavours surrounded by ultra-sophisticated vanilla oak. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full purple-red; a rich and full bouquet with masses of ripe black fruits, dark chocolate and some liquorice; the oak is potent, but is justified. A wine which takes no prisoners, but which has fantastic palate flavour, bursting with liquorice, black cherry/berry and spice flavours surrounded by ultra-sophisticated vanilla oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 +N LindemansP A label conjured up in the heat of the moment when the 1985 vintage bobbed up with the Jimmy Watson Trophy when Lindemans was least expecting it. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc; since 1985 the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon has increased from 35% in the early days to 70%. It has come of age, with the fruit and 18 months new French oak maturation working to great effect. 5 yearsS 1993U Entrecote of beefX 14/7/98` CS MT MA CFa Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Pyrus Cabernet Blends Z Australia Lindemans Pyrus Lindemans (Coonawarra) $26-50 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Lindemans (Coonawarra) [4wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; a complex and rich bouquet with lots of red berry fruit and touches of dark chocolate the same flavours mark the start of the palate, but then fairly fearsome tannins take over; a very different Pyrus to most vintages. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a complex and rich bouquet with lots of red berry fruit and touches of dark chocolate the same flavours mark the start of the palate, but then fairly fearsome tannins take over; a very different Pyrus to most vintages.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 ,N LindemansP Arguably the most distinguished of the Coonawarra trio. A variable blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, varying from as much as 80% Shiraz to as little as 55%. The wine is matured in new American oak barrels for 20 months, and is given additional bottle age prior to release. ,R#4-10 years depending on the vintageS 1994U Beef casseroleX 14/7/98` SH CSa Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Limestone Ridge Shiraz Blends Z Australia Lindemans Limestone Ridge Lindemans (Coonawarra) $26-50 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Lindemans (Coonawarra) [4.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; a powerful, concentrated bouquet with excellent fruit and oak balance and integration; the palate is well balanced and composed, with briar, chocolate and red berry fruit together with generous vanilla oak, finishing with moderate tannins. A typical 94 vintage, not fleshy, but powerful. A prolific gold medal winner in shows. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a powerful, concentrated bouquet with excellent fruit and oak balance and integration; the palate is well balanced and composed, with briar, chocolate and red berry fruit together with generous vanilla oak, finishing with moderate tannins. A typical 94 vintage, not fleshy, but powerful. A prolific gold medal winner in shows.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 -N LindemansP uMade entirely from cabernet sauvignon grown on the 12-hectare St George Vineyard, first produced in 1973. A very distinguished label with an at-times brilliant show record, but which has seen style vary and quality fluctuate over the years. The oak can dominate in lighter vintages, not surprising given that it spends up to 25 months in new French hogsheads and barriques. 5-10 years depending on vintageS 1993U Shoulder of lambX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Red 5 Full-bodied dry redf M St George Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Lindemans St George Lindemans (Coonawarra) $26-50 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Lindemans (Coonawarra) [3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite oaky, with charry/earthy varietal fruit, and the palate has lots of earthy astringency, very much a child of 94, and looking particularly ungainly in early 1998. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite oaky, with charry/earthy varietal fruit, and the palate has lots of earthy astringency, very much a child of 94, and looking particularly ungainly in early 1998.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 1N LindemansP As with the Semillon, something of a moving feast, albeit less confusing. At the end of 1994 there were two wines on release, 1991 Bin 8203 ($15) and 1988 Reserve Bin 7600 ($19). The 1995 Classic Release was of 1987 Bin 7400, followed by Bin 9200 two years later. R$Up to 30 years for the best vintagesS0 1991U GameX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Hunter River Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _%Lindemans Hunter River Reserve Shiraz Lindemans (Hunter Valley) $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Lindemans (Hunter Valley) g[4wine glasses] 1991 Reserve Bin 9200. Medium red-purple; soft, rich and ripe fruit in an earthy/minty/berry spectrum is supported by quite pronounced but not excessive oak. A powerful and rich wine on the palate, with a mix of mint, berry and earth in typical regional style. Finishes with soft tannins. Likely to improve further with age. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1991 <f"Bembo">Reserve Bin 9200. Medium red-purple; soft, rich and ripe fruit in an earthy/minty/berry spectrum is supported by quite pronounced but not excessive oak. A powerful and rich wine on the palate, with a mix of mint, berry and earth in typical regional style. Finishes with soft tannins. Likely to improve further with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 McWilliam s Mount PleasantP A wine with an exceptional pedigree and deserved reputation for consistency, yet chronically underpriced and hence underrated (or the reverse, I am not sure which). Changes to the packaging, notably the bottle shape, and the hand of McWilliam s chief executive Kevin McLintock may well see the wine gradually being repositioned in the market to assume its rightful place. Even without this, an undoubted classic, having won 13 trophies and 129 gold medals since 1981. 7-15 yearsS+ 1992U Rich seafoodX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f M Elizabeth White Semillon Z Australia _$McWilliam s Mount Pleasant Elizabeth McWilliam s Mount Pleasant $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 McWilliam s Mount Pleasant ^[5wine glasses] 1993 Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet shows intense varietal character, with a mix of herbaceous and more honeyed fruit, together with hints of toast starting to develop. The palate is quite outstanding, with a lovely combination of honey and herbs; delicious mouthfeel and excellent structure. The best since 1987. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1993 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet shows intense varietal character, with a mix of herbaceous and more honeyed fruit, together with hints of toast starting to develop. The palate is quite outstanding, with a lovely combination of honey and herbs; delicious mouthfeel and excellent structure. The best since 1987.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 McWilliam s Mount PleasantP 19.95 OP & OH is the sort of obscure designation which so delighted Maurice O Shea. The letters in fact stand for Old Paddock and Old Hill, planted respectively, in 1880 and 1920, and which provide the bulk of the grapes which go into this distinguished wine. To confuse matters a little, since 1987 it has been sold as O Shea Hermitage, in honour of Maurice O Shea, in outstanding vintage years. So sometimes you will see it sold as O Shea, sometimes as OP & OH. 7-20 yearsS0 1993U Roast vealX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Shea (OP & OH) Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _2McWilliam s Mount Pleasant O Shea (OP & OH) Shiraz McWilliam s Mount Pleasant $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 McWilliam s Mount Pleasant ![4wine glasses] 1995 OP & OH. Medium red-purple; the aromas are quite potent, ranging through earth, sweet leather and spice. The palate opens with earthy cherry fruit of medium weight, but does toughen up ever so slightly on the finish. Will presumably soften with age. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">OP & OH. Medium red-purple; the aromas are quite potent, ranging through earth, sweet leather and spice. The palate opens with earthy cherry fruit of medium weight, but does toughen up ever so slightly on the finish. Will presumably soften with age. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 5N MountadamP The Mountadam Chardonnay accounts for around 70% of the total 10 000-case production under the Mountadam label. It is 100% estate-grown from low-yielding, high-altitude vineyards, the resulting fruit concentration fully expressing itself in the wine. Although Adam Wynn says that the changes in winemaking since 1984 have essentially been limited to finetuning, there is no doubt that there has been a sea change in the end product since 1989. R 3-6 yearsS! 1994U Salmon terrineX 14/7/98` Eden Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Mountadam Chardonnay c Mountadam $26-50 Eden Valley t late note 14/7/98 % Mountadam [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with cashew and melon aromas supported by subtle oak, but gives relatively little indication of the 14.5 degrees alcohol which manifests itself on the palate. The flavours are in the creamy cashew nut spectrum, but the wine is in a sense at unresolved war with itself, and you cannot help but wonder whether the level of alcohol was part of the design of the wine or not. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with cashew and melon aromas supported by subtle oak, but gives relatively little indication of the 14.5 degrees alcohol which manifests itself on the palate. The flavours are in the creamy cashew nut spectrum, but the wine is in a sense at unresolved war with itself, and you cannot help but wonder whether the level of alcohol was part of the design of the wine or not.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <tB 0h100z8f"Bembo">89 7N AllandaleP 17.50Q Draws upon 3 hectares of estate plantings. At its best, the wine shows excellent use of a mix of French and American oak. The wine is given extended lees contact and taken through partial malolactic fermentation.R 2-3 yearsS 1996U Smoked salmonX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Hunter River Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Allandale Hunter River Chardonnay c Allandale $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 % Allandale I[4wine glasses] 1997 Quite brilliant yellow-green; the sophisticated and clever use of spicy oak does not hide the peach and melon fruit on an attractively complex bouquet. The palate, likewise, shows lots of oak input, with more of that sweet, almost fleshy fruit; does cloy ever so fractionally on the finish. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Quite brilliant yellow-green; the sophisticated and clever use of spicy oak does not hide the peach and melon fruit on an attractively complex bouquet. The palate, likewise, shows lots of oak input, with more of that sweet, almost fleshy fruit; does cloy ever so fractionally on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 All SaintsP A typically concentrated Rutherglen Shiraz in terms of fruit, but not so typical in terms of the addition of a considerable degree of new American oak. The marriage works well.R 5-7 yearsS 1992U VenisonX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia All Saints Shiraz All Saints $16-20 North East Victoria 14/7/98 All Saints C[4wine glasses] 1996 Strong, deep red-purple; the bouquet is rich and full, with plum and cherry fruit smothered in smooth vanillin American oak. A chewy, rich, dense mouthfilling, indeed mouthstopping, wine which needs years to settle down, but could well prove to be something special in ten years time. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong, deep red-purple; the bouquet is rich and full, with plum and cherry fruit smothered in smooth vanillin American oak. A chewy, rich, dense mouthfilling, indeed mouthstopping, wine which needs years to settle down, but could well prove to be something special in ten years time.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Amberley EstateP \Made in a quite different mould from most Margaret River Semillons, with lots of rich barrel-ferment oak producing a wine that, in many ways, has more in common with a ripe year Hunter Valley Semillon than that which one usually finds in the Margaret River. Typically spends months in French oak, and some wild yeast fermentations are incorporated. R Drink nowS 1995U Roast chickenX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Amberley Estate Semillon Amberley Estate $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Amberley Estate =[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a complex and rich bouquet which is, however, largely dominated by potent spicy nutmeg oak. A monumental wine on the palate, with masses of flavour, but I really think the oak is over the top. Others, no doubt, will go for it with their head back. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a complex and rich bouquet which is, however, largely dominated by potent spicy nutmeg oak. A monumental wine on the palate, with masses of flavour, but I really think the oak is over the top. Others, no doubt, will go for it with their head back.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Amberley EstateP ~A blend of 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc; a portion of the Semillon component is fermented in American oak hogsheads, and left in oak for a further two months. The remaining Semillon and the Sauvignon Blanc is fermented in stainless steel. Has produced an outstanding wine in both 1995 and 1996. The 97 was selected in the Top 100 Sydney International Wine Competition 1998. Up to 4 yearsS 1996U Richer Asian seafood dishesX 14/7/98` SE SBa Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _(Amberley Estate Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Amberley Estate $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Amberley Estate &[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, powerful, fruit-driven with strong tropical fruit. The palate has excellent structure and length, with touches of herb, lemon and mineral, the oak contributing more to the texture than to the flavour. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, powerful, fruit-driven with strong tropical fruit. The palate has excellent structure and length, with touches of herb, lemon and mineral, the oak contributing more to the texture than to the flavour.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Bald MountainP 11.50 Produced from 1.5 hectares of immaculately maintained estate plantings. The wine has a very particular and distinctive bouquet which is strongly reminiscent of many Hunter Valley Chardonnays, notably when fermented with a particular type of yeast. It is interesting to see the character also appear in the Granite Belt. As at 1998, four vintages of Chardonnay ( 93 to 96 inclusive) were available as part of the Vintage Series Pack then on issue. Of the Chardonnays, the 95 is the best, a facB t attested to by its solid show record. However, there is a strong family style which runs through all of the Chardonnays, all of which have had significant show success. R 1-2 yearsS 1993U Seafood pastaX 14/7/98` Granite Beltb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Bald Mountain Chardonnay Bald Mountain $11-15 Granite Belt 14/7/98 Bald Mountain [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium yellow-green; a rich, full toasty/buttery bouquet is followed by an equivalently rich buttery/toasty/peachy palate, which has good length and acidity. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a rich, full toasty/buttery bouquet is followed by an equivalently rich buttery/toasty/peachy palate, which has good length and acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 BalnavesP Produced from a careful selection from part of the estate vineyards. The clarified juice is barrel-fermented in new Seguin Moreau French oak hogsheads followed by lees stirring for two months, followed by a further two months oak maturation before relatively early bottling. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Robe crayfishX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Balnaves Chardonnay Balnaves of Coonawarra $16-20 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Balnaves of Coonawarra 9[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; fragrant melon, citrus and fig fruit is supported by subtle, gently spicy oak on the bouquet. A well balanced and structured wine on the palate with melon, citrus and cashew flavours; subtle oak. Tighter than the 96, but still a fraction soft. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; fragrant melon, citrus and fig fruit is supported by subtle, gently spicy oak on the bouquet. A well balanced and structured wine on the palate with melon, citrus and cashew flavours; subtle oak. Tighter than the 96, but still a fraction soft.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 BalnavesP zDrawn from a little over 16 hectares of estate plantings, the majority of the grapes are sold to other leading Coonawarra winemakers. As with the Cabernet Merlot, vintages since 1991 have been on the light side, and one also has to wonder whether there is an element of over-cropping. The 96 won the trophy for Best Varietal Cabernet in Show at the 1998 Royal Sydney Wine Show. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Veal chopsX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Balnaves Cabernet Sauvignon Balnaves of Coonawarra $21-25 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Balnaves of Coonawarra V[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the best of the Cabernet family wines produced at Balnaves in 1996, with sweet cassis berry fruit and subtle oak. There is plenty of concentration to the cassis/red berry fruit on the palate, supported by fine, lingering tannins and the same subtly sweet oak as the bouquet. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the best of the Cabernet family wines produced at Balnaves in 1996, with sweet cassis berry fruit and subtle oak. There is plenty of concentration to the cassis/red berry fruit on the palate, supported by fine, lingering tannins and the same subtly sweet oak as the bouquet.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 BalnavesP A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot, matured in used French and American hogsheads for 12 months. Since 1991, the wine has been fairly light in style, suggesting high yields.R 2-3 years 1994U Calf's liver Italian styleX 14/7/98` MT CSa Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Balnaves Cabernet Merlot Balnaves of Coonawarra $16-20 20.1 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Balnaves of Coonawarra #[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the aromas are initially in the leafy/cedary spectrum but with some red berry characters appearing after a time. Quite bright juicy fruit flavours on the palate of light to medium weight are supported by fair tannins on the finish. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the aromas are initially in the leafy/cedary spectrum but with some red berry characters appearing after a time. Quite bright juicy fruit flavours on the palate of light to medium weight are supported by fair tannins on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 A magnificent wine first released in late 1994 to commemorate the Centenary of Best s Great Western Vineyards. What might have been a one-off event is now an annual one (vintage permitting) under the Thomson Family label. The 95 is a superb successor to the Centenary vintage, made entirely from vines planted adjacent to the winery in 1867 by Henry Best, and matured in small French oak. R 20+ yearsS 1992U Stir-fried beefX 14/7/98` SHa Grampiansb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Thomson Family Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia s Thomson Family Shiraz Best's Wines $26-50 Great Western 14/7/98 Best's Wines W[5wine glasses] 1995 Dense red-purple; the bouquet exudes gloriously dense chocolate and black cherry fruit, supported by excellent oak. The exotically concentrated and dense palate has outstanding texture and structure; ripe black cherry and chocolate flavours, subtle but sweet oak and fine tannins complete a great wine. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet exudes gloriously dense chocolate and black cherry fruit, supported by excellent oak. The exotically concentrated and dense palate has outstanding texture and structure; ripe black cherry and chocolate flavours, subtle but sweet oak and fine tannins complete a great wine. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 One of the more understated classic wines, produced entirely from estate-grown grapes, made with a minimum of artifice and with high-quality fruit, rather than oak, doing the work.R Up to 30 yearsS0 1994U Roast veal, mature cheddarX 14/7/98` SHa Grampiansb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Bin O Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia s Bin O Shiraz Best's Wines $26-50 Great Western 14/7/98 Best's Wines [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red; there are fragrant red cherry, berry and cedar aromas on the moderately intense bouquet, followed logically by sweet red cherry fruit and silky tannins on the palate. Subtle oak treatment throughout. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red; there are fragrant red cherry, berry and cedar aromas on the moderately intense bouquet, followed logically by sweet red cherry fruit and silky tannins on the palate. Subtle oak treatment throughout. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 YaldaraP 29.20 The new super-premium flagship, with four wines in the range: this wine, a straight Merlot, a Semillon and a Tawny Port. The Merlot Cabernet is by far the best of the table wines; 500 cases were produced, packaged in 750-ml, 1.5-litre and 6-litre bottles. The grapes come from a single vineyard in the Lyndoch Valley, although the name The Farms is that of a newly acquired 100-hectare vineyard property adjacent to the Lakewood winery. Up to 10 yearsS 1991U Beef bourguignonX 14/7/98` MT CSa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M The Farms Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Blends Z Australia _+Yaldara The Farms Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Yaldara $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Yaldara e[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Dense purple-red; a massively dense, concentrated and ripe bouquet, crammed with berry and chocolate fruit and charry oak blows out even further on the palate, where that charry American oak comes thundering over the top of what is far from inconsequential fruit. Prayer and ten years may result in a very good wine. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense purple-red; a massively dense, concentrated and ripe bouquet, crammed with berry and chocolate fruit and charry oak blows out even further on the palate, where that charry American oak comes thundering over the top of what is far from inconsequential fruit. Prayer and ten years may result in a very good wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Doonkuna EstateP The red wines of Doonkuna, and in particular the Cabernet Sauvignon, are generously flavoured wines which have improved markedly over recent vintages. The inclusion of 40% Merlot has seen a label change since 1996.R 5-7 yearsS 1993U Strongly flavoured cheeseX 14/7/98` Canberra Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Doonkuna Estate Cabernet Merlot Doonkuna Estate $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 Doonkuna Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a quite fragrant bouquet with berry and mint aromas and some characters associated with dense vineyard canopy. The palate is fresh, with sweet berry and mint fruit supported by quite sweet oak; soft tannins. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a quite fragrant bouquet with berry and mint aromas and some characters associated with dense vineyard canopy. The palate is fresh, with sweet berry and mint fruit supported by quite sweet oak; soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 UN FreycinetP The remarkable site climate of the Freycinet Vineyard is primarily responsible for the outstanding quality of the Pinot Noir, although the experience and skills of Geoff Bull, daughter Lindy Bull and Claudio Radenti ensure that the potential quality is maximised. Interestingly, the only red fermenter the winery possesses is a rotary fermenter, which in turn helps in the extraction of both colour and flavour. The 96 continues the trophy-winning streak of Freycinet, winning trophies for BesBDt Pinot Noir and Best Wine of Show at the 1998 Tasmanian Wines Show. Up to 5 yearsS Duck, hare, venisonX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Freycinet Pinot Noir c Freycinet $26-50 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 % Freycinet [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; an exceptionally fragrant and complex bouquet with a range of cherry, plum, leaf, mint and earth, all cascading through onto a rich, fleshy palate, with superb texture and structure running through the very finish. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; an exceptionally fragrant and complex bouquet with a range of cherry, plum, leaf, mint and earth, all cascading through onto a rich, fleshy palate, with superb texture and structure running through the very finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 HappsP Often a challenging wine; one suspects there may be an oak problem with some of the wines. There is no problem with the quality of the fruit, however.R 4-6 yearsS 1994U Game pieX 14/7/98` CS MTa Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Happs Cabernet Merlot Happs $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Happs U[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; the bouquet is quite full and solid, with dark berry and chocolate fruit together with faintly gamey undertones. The palate has good weight, with dark berry and chocolate flavours, although that edge in the bouquet does come through with some astringency on the finish of the palate. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; the bouquet is quite full and solid, with dark berry and chocolate fruit together with faintly gamey undertones. The palate has good weight, with dark berry and chocolate flavours, although that edge in the bouquet does come through with some astringency on the finish of the palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 First produced in 1984, and intermittently thereafter. In 1990 it moved from a wooded to an unwooded style, Ken Helm being one of the innovators. The wine suffers from the usual limitations of the styleR Drink nowS 1995U Snowy Mountains troutX 14/7/98` Canberra Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Non Oaked Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia s Non Oaked Chardonnay Helm's $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 Helm's [3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet has a mix of minerally/stony notes with light citrus and peach fruit, the palate showing the same light minerally/citrussy combination. The problem with such wines is that they are neither fish nor fowl. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet has a mix of minerally/stony notes with light citrus and peach fruit, the palate showing the same light minerally/citrussy combination. The problem with such wines is that they are neither fish nor fowl.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 Initially a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but since 1994 a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot and in that year renamed The Helm although it will only be released under this label if Ken Helm believes the quality justifies it. R 3-4 yearsS! 1994U Lamb filletsX 14/7/98` CS MTa Canberra Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red The Helm Cabernet Blends Z Australia s The Helm Helm's $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 Helm's [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is very sweet, with ripe minty, cassis fruit; there is more of that super-ripe fruit on the blackberry and cassis-flavoured palate, which finishes with subtle oak. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is very sweet, with ripe minty, cassis fruit; there is more of that super-ripe fruit on the blackberry and cassis-flavoured palate, which finishes with subtle oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Kyeema EstateP As with all the Kyeema wines, sourced from vineyards in the Canberra region. The 93 vintage aged gracefully and was a silver medal winner at the 1994 Yass Show, and the second-highest pointed wine at that show. R 3-4 yearsS 1995U Dim simX 14/7/98` Canberra Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Kyeema Estate Chardonnay Kyeema Estate $11-15 Canberra District 14/7/98 Kyeema Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is full of character, with complex, rich toasty barrel-ferment oak inputs, all of which come through strongly on the palate. There is sufficient melon and peach fruit to sustain those characters, however. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is full of character, with complex, rich toasty barrel-ferment oak inputs, all of which come through strongly on the palate. There is sufficient melon and peach fruit to sustain those characters, however.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Kyeema EstateP 15Q@Like all the Kyeema wines, sourced from Canberra district fruit.R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Diced lambX 14/7/98` CS MTa Canberra Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Kyeema Estate Cabernet Merlot Kyeema Estate $11-15 Canberra District 14/7/98 Kyeema Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the cedary/earthy/briary aromas, with slightly gamey overtones, are followed by a palate which is quite firm with mint, briar and earth flavours, closing with slightly green tannins. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the cedary/earthy/briary aromas, with slightly gamey overtones, are followed by a palate which is quite firm with mint, briar and earth flavours, closing with slightly green tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Kyeema EstateP A wine of real class, made from grapes sourced from various vineyards in the Canberra region, and which in 1992 and again in 1994 was of outstanding quality. The 1996 vintage won three trophies at the 1997 New South Wales Small Winemakers Wine Show.R 5 yearsS! 1994U Braised beefX 14/7/98` Canberra Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Kyeema Estate Shiraz Kyeema Estate $11-15 Canberra District 14/7/98 Kyeema Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid and dense, with dark berry, liquorice and faintly gamey varietal fruit in abundance. On the palate American oak comes through augmenting the powerful varietal fruit. Rich, full and chewy. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid and dense, with dark berry, liquorice and faintly gamey varietal fruit in abundance. On the palate American oak comes through augmenting the powerful varietal fruit. Rich, full and chewy.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Lillypilly EstateP 16.25 WA Lillypilly specialty, and one of the few botrytised Muscats made in the country. Even then, it is only made in exceptional vintages, the only releases to date being from 91 and 96. The wine was a finalist in the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Competition, looking the best of the sweet wines from Lillypilly in the 1996 vintage. Now-3 yearsS 1991U Tarte TatinX 14/7/98` Riverinab 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Noble Muscat Of Alexandria X Fortified Muscat Z Australia _,Lillypilly Estate Noble Muscat Of Alexandria Lillypilly Estate $16-20 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 Lillypilly Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Full straw-yellow; both the bouquet and the palate show extraordinarily fragrant and intense muscat aromas, enhanced and enriched by the botrytis, without subverting the essential varietal fruit. Simply delicious. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Full straw-yellow; both the bouquet and the palate show extraordinarily fragrant and intense muscat aromas, enhanced and enriched by the botrytis, without subverting the essential varietal fruit. Simply delicious.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 LirralirraP Produced from three-quarters of a hectare of estate-grown grapes. Vintages prior to 1994 were sometimes put in indifferent oak. Since1994 the wine has been allowed to speak for itself, and is much the better for that.R 3-4 yearsS 1995U Asparagus saladX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Lirralirra Semillon Lirralirra Estate $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Lirralirra Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow; a rich bouquet showing some bottle development with a mix of honey and lemon aromas is followed by a solid wine on the palate with tangy flavour falling away fractionally on the finish. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow; a rich bouquet showing some bottle development with a mix of honey and lemon aromas is followed by a solid wine on the palate with tangy flavour falling away fractionally on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 MeadowbankP A small quantity of the grapes harvested from the 4 hectares of estate plantings is set aside for the Grace Elizabeth Chardonnay. It is barrel-fermented in new French (Dargaud & Jaegle) oak, taken through malolactic fermentation, and left on lees for nine months. A distinguished wine. The 1995 vintage (in unbottled form but drawn from the final blend immediately prior to bottling) was awarded the Chairman s Trophy at the 1996 Tasmanian Wines Show. The 97 was a silver medal winner at the 1B 998 Tasmanian Wines Show. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Fresh Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Grace Elizabeth Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _%Meadowbank Grace Elizabeth Chardonnay Meadowbank Wines $21-25 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Meadowbank Wines k[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet with some malolactic fermentation influences and slightly malty/hessiany oak which likewise comes through on the palate. However, the wine has above average richness and weight, with just a hint of mandarin botrytis which actually adds to the character, rather than detracting from it. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet with some malolactic fermentation influences and slightly malty/hessiany oak which likewise comes through on the palate. However, the wine has above average richness and weight, with just a hint of mandarin botrytis which actually adds to the character, rather than detracting from it.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 BethanyP 19.90 Estate-grown, hand-pruned and hand-picked, and matured for two years in American oak. Since 1988 the wine has had conspicuous show success, winning important trophies with both the 88 and 92 vintages. Seldom less than excellent, the 96 living up to its reputation. R 3-6 yearsS 1995U Mild curryX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Bethany Shiraz Bethany Wines $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Bethany Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a rich and complex bouquet with sweet plummy fruit, hints of game and deftly judged oak. The palate is archetypal Barossa, with sweet plum and mint fruit, soft tannins and a comfortable cocoon of oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a rich and complex bouquet with sweet plummy fruit, hints of game and deftly judged oak. The palate is archetypal Barossa, with sweet plum and mint fruit, soft tannins and a comfortable cocoon of oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Coldstream HillsP Made from Yarra Valley grapes, part estate-grown and part purchased from other Yarra Valley growers. Largely barrel-fermented in a mix of new and used French oak under strictly controlled temperatures. Prolonged lees contact but no malolactic fermentation. 5-10 yearsS& 1996U Oven-roasted Blue Eye codX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Coldstream Hills Chardonnay Coldstream Hills $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Coldstream Hills [0wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is already showing some weight, with tangy citrus and melon fruit together with a whiff of barrel ferment and cashew nuances from the malolactic-fermented component. The palate is quite powerful, with nectarine and melon fruit, subtle French oak and again that extra dimension of texture from the concentrated fruit and the malolactic input. RATING: NR @BM bold:1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is already showing some weight, with tangy citrus and melon fruit together with a whiff of barrel ferment and cashew nuances from the malolactic-fermented component. The palate is quite powerful, with nectarine and melon fruit, subtle French oak and again that extra dimension of texture from the concentrated fruit and the malolactic input.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">NR Coldstream HillsP Made primarily from estate-grown grapes which are 100% barrel-fermented in a mix of new (over 50%) and used French oak barriques, principally Vosges but with Troncais and Allier also used. Six months lees contact; 20% malolactic fermentation.R 5-10 yearsS 1995U Veal, chickenX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _#Coldstream Hills Reserve Chardonnay Coldstream Hills $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Coldstream Hills [0wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; smooth melon and fig is interwoven through faintly spicy French oak on the bouquet, with just a hint of cashew from the small percentage taken through malolactic fermentation. While tight and restrained, the palate has more weight and freshness than the 95, and should develop extremely well over the next five-plus years. Gold medal at the 1997 International Wine Challenge, London. RATING: NR @BM bold:1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; smooth melon and fig is interwoven through faintly spicy French oak on the bouquet, with just a hint of cashew from the small percentage taken through malolactic fermentation. While tight and restrained, the palate has more weight and freshness than the 95, and should develop extremely well over the next five-plus years. Gold medal at the 1997 International Wine Challenge, London.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8B f"Bembo">NR Coldstream HillsP :Part estate-grown and part sourced from other Yarra Valley growers, with a range of site climates. It is made using the full gamut of Burgundian techniques, including substantial use of whole bunches, foot-stamped and macerated. The primary fermentation is completed in a mix of new and used Troncais (French) oak. R 2-6 yearsS! 1996U+Seared or slow-cooked salmon, Asian cuisineX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir Coldstream Hills $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Coldstream Hills T[0wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; there is a classic mix of plum, cherry and forest aromas on the bouquet, supported by the typical subtle, faintly spicy oak. The palate is complex and mouthfilling, with sweet plum and cherry fruit on the mid-palate then a long, silky finish, with touches of spice woven throughout. RATING: NR @BM bold:1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; there is a classic mix of plum, cherry and forest aromas on the bouquet, supported by the typical subtle, faintly spicy oak. The palate is complex and mouthfilling, with sweet plum and cherry fruit on the mid-palate then a long, silky finish, with touches of spice woven throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">NR Coldstream HillsP 4Produced entirely from estate-grown grapes, in turn coming mainly from the Amphitheatre Block established in 1985. The same making techniques are used with the Reserve wine as with the standard, the difference being fruit selection and a much higher percentage of new Dargaud & Jaegle Troncais oak barriques. R 3-6 yearsS 1995U Quail, Asian cuisineX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _#Coldstream Hills Reserve Pinot Noir Coldstream Hills $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Coldstream Hills [0wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; the bouquet already shows considerable complexity, with plum, spice and forest aromas of medium to full intensity. A wine of above-average concentration, with plum, spice and foresty/briary flavours supported by toasty French (Troncais) oak. Considerably richer than the 95, harking back to the 94. Gold medal 1997 International Wine Challenge, London. RATING: NR @BM bold:1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; the bouquet already shows considerable complexity, with plum, spice and forest aromas of medium to full intensity. A wine of above-average concentration, with plum, spice and foresty/briary flavours supported by toasty French (Troncais) oak. Considerably richer than the 95, harking back to the 94. Gold medal 1997 International Wine Challenge, London.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">NR Coldstream HillsP :A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 14% Merlot. As with the other wines, part estate-grown, part purchased from other Yarra Valley growers. It is matured in a mix of new and used French oak (predominantly Nevers and Allier, with lesser amounts of Troncais) for 18 to 20 months before bottling. 4-10 yearsS 1994U Lamb with redcurrant sauceX 14/7/98` CS CF MTa Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M Briarston Cabernet Blends Z Australia Coldstream Hills Briarston Coldstream Hills $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Coldstream Hills ![0wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet shows a mix of redcurrant, cassis, olive and cedary French oak. The palate is typically soft, with a mix of sweet berry and more minty/olive-like flavours. Fine, subtle tannins ripple through the gentle but long finish. RATING: NR @BM bold:1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet shows a mix of redcurrant, cassis, olive and cedary French oak. The palate is typically soft, with a mix of sweet berry and more minty/olive-like flavours. Fine, subtle tannins ripple through the gentle but long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">NR Coldstream HillsP .First introduced in 1992, and in fact will only be made in those years in which the quality of the Cabernet Sauvignon is outstanding. Entirely estate-produced from a single-vineyard block, the wine is matured in a high percentage of new Allier and Nevers oak barriques for 20 months. None made in 1996. Up to 20 yearsS 1994U Rump steakX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _+Coldstream Hills Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Coldstream Hills $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Coldstream Hills [0wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; perfectly ripened varietal cabernet is supported by subtle and well-integrated cedary French oak on the bouquet. The wine is of medium to full intensity with cassis/blackberry fruit, subtle, cedary oak and lingering soft tannins. The excellent balance and easy feel of the wine in the mouth should not deceive, it will in fact be long lived. RATING: NR @BM bold:1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; perfectly ripened varietal cabernet is supported by subtle and well-integrated cedary French oak on the bouquet. The wine is of medium to full intensity with cassis/blackberry fruit, subtle, cedary oak and lingering soft tannins. The excellent balance and easy feel of the wine in the mouth should not deceive, it will in fact be long lived.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">NR Paringa EstateP The Mornington Peninsula is an unlikely place to produce first class Shiraz, particularly given that it is usually picked on the Queen's Birthday in June. And indeed, this extremely late-harvest date indicates that the growing conditions must be good (and in particular, warm) for the wine to really succeed as it did brilliantly in a run of vintages from 90 to 94 inclusive. In this time the wine won numerous gold medals and trophies, the most prestigious being the trophy for Best AustraB lian Wine in the 1995 Australia v South Africa Wine Challenge. In 95 and 96 the less favourable growing conditions have made their mark; I look forward with relish to the R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Stir-fried beefX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Paringa Estate Shiraz Paringa Estate $21-25 Mornington Peninsula t late note 14/7/98 Paringa Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; an extremely pungent and assertive leafy/spicy bouquet is followed by an almost spiky, savoury, stemmy palate. Some will like this extreme style; others will not. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; an extremely pungent and assertive leafy/spicy bouquet is followed by an almost spiky, savoury, stemmy palate. Some will like this extreme style; others will not.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 SmithbrookP 22.50Q Produced from 23 hectares of estate vineyards. Quality has varied somewhat over the years, no doubt in part reflecting vintage conditions.R 2-5 yearsS 1995U Scampi, marronX 14/7/98` CHa Pembertonb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Smithbrook Chardonnay Smithbrook $21-25 r Pemberton 14/7/98 Smithbrook [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; there are ripe, tropical canned fruit aromas on the bouquet; the wine is quite rich on the mid-palate in particular, with soft peachy/buttery fruit, and minimal oak input. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; there are ripe, tropical canned fruit aromas on the bouquet; the wine is quite rich on the mid-palate in particular, with soft peachy/buttery fruit, and minimal oak input.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 N Tim GrampP yThe inaugural 1991 Shiraz won a trophy, six gold and two silver medals, including a gold medal at the 1993 Intervin International Wine Show in New York. The wine is made in a full-throated, full-blooded style, using low-yielding dry-grown grapes and lots of American oak, and works to perfection. The wine is sourced from Willunga (in McLaren Vale) and spends 14 months in oak. 5-10 yearsS 1994U Barbecued, marinated steakX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Tim Gramp McLaren Vale Shiraz c Tim Gramp $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 % Tim Gramp [4wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; a powerful, dense bouquet with dark fruits and hints of bitter chocolate leads logically into a rich, dark chocolate and black cherry-flavoured palate with soft but persistent tannins woven throughout. Subtle oak. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; a powerful, dense bouquet with dark fruits and hints of bitter chocolate leads logically into a rich, dark chocolate and black cherry-flavoured palate with soft but persistent tannins woven throughout. Subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Turkey FlatP Based upon a precious patch of 145-year-old vines at the heart of the Turkey Flat Vineyard. It was made at Rockford by Chris Ringland, and has had the Adelaide wine press in a paroxysm of delight since it was released. R 10 yearsS 1994U Smoked kangarooX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Turkey Flat Shiraz Turkey Flat $21-25 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Turkey Flat h[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; a ripe and rich bouquet is full of sweet fruit, although there are some slightly blurry characters lurking in the background. On the palate ripe blackberry and blackcurrant fruit is to the fore, although again there is an echo of that character on the bouquet. May simply have been a poor cork. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a ripe and rich bouquet is full of sweet fruit, although there are some slightly blurry characters lurking in the background. On the palate ripe blackberry and blackcurrant fruit is to the fore, although again there is an echo of that character on the bouquet. May simply have been a poor cork.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Yarra YarraP Produced from 4 hectares of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot grown on a north-facing slope, and which are not irrigated. The final wine (a blend of 80% Cabernet and 13% Cabernet Franc and 7% Merlot) reflects the low-yielding vines, and is not released every year. Basket-pressed, and incorporating the pressings fraction. Aged for two years in 40% new French oak barriques. 5-10 yearsS 1992U Osso bucoX 14/7/98` CS CF MTa Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Yarra Yarra Cabernets Yarra Yarra $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Yarra Yarra ([4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and smooth, with sweet cassis/blackberry fruit and just a trace of oak. The palate is silky smooth and most attractive, with cassis fruit which follows on precisely from the bouquet; a great outcome for the vintage. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and smooth, with sweet cassis/blackberry fruit and just a trace of oak. The palate is silky smooth and most attractive, with cassis fruit which follows on precisely from the bouquet; a great outcome for the vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 PetalumaP *A 100% estate-produced wine from Petaluma s Hanlins Hill Vineyard in the Clare Valley, one of the classic Australian Riesling regions. The wine is made with iron discipline, and is a crystal-pure reflection of the interaction of climate, soil and variety. As the notes indicate, it ages with grace. 10 years for the best vintagesS0 1996U SashimiX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked)f Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Petaluma Riesling Petaluma $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Petaluma k[5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quintessential, classic Clare, firm and with a mix of mineral, toast and lime aromas. The powerfully structured palate runs through the same mineral/toast, spice and lime flavours, the palate bone-dry and clean. Regarded by Brian Croser as one of the great vintages for Petaluma. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quintessential, classic Clare, firm and with a mix of mineral, toast and lime aromas. The powerfully structured palate runs through the same mineral/toast, spice and lime flavours, the palate bone-dry and clean. Regarded by Brian Croser as one of the great vintages for Petaluma.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 PetalumaP A logical counterpart to the Chardonnay in the sense that it is far more elegant and refined than the more typical South Australian (and in particular, Coonawarra) Cabernet. Its regional base has remained the same since 1979, but the varietal composition has changed significantly, moving from Shiraz and Cabernet in 79 through to a Cabernet-dominant blend with around 15% Merlot. As with the Chardonnay, the more recent vintages are best. R 5-8 yearsS! 1994U Saddle of lambX 14/7/98` CS MTa Adelaide Hillsb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Coonawarra Cabernet Blends Z Australia Petaluma Coonawarra Petaluma $26-50 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Petaluma [5wine glasses] 1995 Strong red-purple; spotlessly clean, ripe blackberry/blackcurrant aromas of medium to full intensity are followed by a stylish palate, with particularly soft, almost creamy, tannins, with hints of cedar and chocolate. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; spotlessly clean, ripe blackberry/blackcurrant aromas of medium to full intensity are followed by a stylish palate, with particularly soft, almost creamy, tannins, with hints of cedar and chocolate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Penley EstateP Made from the pick of 38 hectares of estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in a cleverly handled mix of American and French oak. Over the years, various vintages of the wine have won a quite extraordinary number of trophies and gold medals.R 5-15 yearsS 1994U Rare beefX 1014Z 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _ Penley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Penley Estate $26-50 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Penley Estate T[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; an unexpectedly rich and sweet bouquet with blackcurrant and blackberry fruit is followed by a supple palate with red berry, blackcurrant and bitter chocolate flavours supported by perfectly balanced oak and tannins. An exceptionally good outcome for a difficult Coonawarra vintage. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; an unexpectedly rich and sweet bouquet with blackcurrant and blackberry fruit is followed by a supple palate with red berry, blackcurrant and bitter chocolate flavours supported by perfectly balanced oak and tannins. An exceptionally good outcome for a difficult Coonawarra vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 AlkoomiP Alkoomi has 2.5 hectares of sauvignon blanc, and was one of the first vineyards in the region to experiment with the variety. Some of the early vintages lacked varietal character, but every year since 1995 have displayed great depth of flavour and strong varietal character. R Drink nowS 1996U Ginger prawnsX 2124Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Alkoomi Sauvignon Blanc Alkoomi $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Alkoomi [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a strikingly intense and vibrant bouquet with masses of passionfruit and gooseberry aromas is followed by a surprisingly, but refreshingly, delicate palate, crisp and tingling with good acidity and mouthfeel. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a strikingly intense and vibrant bouquet with masses of passionfruit and gooseberry aromas is followed by a surprisingly, but refreshingly, delicate palate, crisp and tingling with good acidity and mouthfeel.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Amberley EstateP Strongly flavoured and positively styled wine, first made in 1994, and has since established itself as one of Amberley's showcase wines.R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Moroccan lambX 2126Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Amberley Estate Shiraz Amberley Estate $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Amberley Estate ~[4wine glasses] 1996 Strong purple-red; there is youthful, ripe black cherry fruit and some American oak on the bouquet. A wine which exhibits rather more power than finesse or even varietal character on the palate, but does have all of the building blocks there to flower as it matures in bottle. Lots of tannins and extract, and the components are well balanced. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong purple-red; there is youthful, ripe black cherry fruit and some American oak on the bouquet. A wine which exhibits rather more power than finesse or even varietal character on the palate, but does have all of the building blocks there to flower as it matures in bottle. Lots of tannins and extract, and the components are well balanced.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Ashbrook EstateP All of the Ashbrook Estate wines are estate-grown, the Semillon from 2.6 hectares of vines. Fermented in stainless steel, and not given any time in oak, the wine shows the herbaceous style of Margaret River Semillon to best advantage.R Now-5 yearsS 1996U Blanquette of vealX 2127Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Ashbrook Estate Semillon Ashbrook Estate $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 Ashbrook Estate \[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; there is excellent varietal on the bouquet, showing perfect balance and ripeness, faintly herbaceous (in the best sense) yet not green. The palate, too, shows a range of flavours from sweet, almost tropical, through to more herbaceous notes. As ever, a very distinguished wine. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there is excellent varietal on the bouquet, showing perfect balance and ripeness, faintly herbaceous (in the best sense) yet not green. The palate, too, shows a range of flavours from sweet, almost tropical, through to more herbaceous notes. As ever, a very distinguished wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 N BalgownieP Produced from fully-mature estate vineyards established in the early 1970s, and with a proud history dating back to that time. After an uncertain period in the second half of the 1980s and early 90s, has returned to form in no uncertain fashion.R Up to 10 yearsS 1995U Beef in red wineX 2131Z 14/7/98a Bendigo Estate Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Balgownie Estate Shiraz Balgownie Estate $21-25 Bendigo 14/7/98 Balgownie Estate %[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; powerful and earthy dark chocolate and blackberry fruit aromas introduce a rich and substantial palate. The flavours run through dark chocolate, raspberry and blackberry with soft, chewy tannins and subtle oak on the finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; powerful and earthy dark chocolate and blackberry fruit aromas introduce a rich and substantial palate. The flavours run through dark chocolate, raspberry and blackberry with soft, chewy tannins and subtle oak on the finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Has been overshadowed by the Shiraz but is a more than useful wine, produced entirely from estate-grown grapes. The 96 is an extraordinary wine with 14.5 degrees alcohol, and 15% Merlot included.R 4-7 yearsS 1994U Sirloin of beefX 2133Z 14/7/98a Grampians Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia s Cabernet Sauvignon Best's Wines $26-50 Great Western 14/7/98 Best's Wines [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is potent and clean, with cassis and hints of cedar; the palate is powerful, and extremely ripe, with blackberry tinged with cedar and olive. Those olive characters no doubt come from the Merlot. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is potent and clean, with cassis and hints of cedar; the palate is powerful, and extremely ripe, with blackberry tinged with cedar and olive. Those olive characters no doubt come from the Merlot. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Bloodwood EstateP Made by Jon Reynolds at Reynolds Yarraman, and has consistently shown that it needs time in bottle to evolve. A delicate style, usually light-bodied but texturally complex, with malolactic cashew notes.R 2-4 yearsS 1995U White-fleshed fishX 2136Z 14/7/98a Orange Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Bloodwood Estate Chardonnay Bloodwood Estate $16-20 Orange 14/7/98 Bloodwood Estate a[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a complex bouquet with cashew nut, melon and ripe fig fruit together with hints of oak spice. The palate is full, with spicy/bacony oak more evident than on the bouquet, perhaps a fraction intrusive given the fruit weight, but the wine certainly has character, and should develop well. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a complex bouquet with cashew nut, melon and ripe fig fruit together with hints of oak spice. The palate is full, with spicy/bacony oak more evident than on the bouquet, perhaps a fraction intrusive given the fruit weight, but the wine certainly has character, and should develop well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Brookland ValleyP 27.99 'Since the arrival of BRL Hardy on the scene, the already good quality of the Brookland Valley wines has improved. So, in some instances, has the style changed for the better, particularly with the Cabernet Merlot, which is now produced in a much sweeter, softer and fruitier style than hitherto. R 4-8 yearsS 1994U Char-grilled steakX 2142Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _ Brookland Valley Cabernet Merlot Brookland Valley $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Brookland Valley /[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; there are abundant sweet, smooth dark berry/blackcurrant fruit aromas on the bouquet, with just a touch of oak. The palate is rich, ripe and smooth, with luscious oak a little more evident than on the bouquet, but by no means overplayed. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; there are abundant sweet, smooth dark berry/blackcurrant fruit aromas on the bouquet, with just a touch of oak. The palate is rich, ripe and smooth, with luscious oak a little more evident than on the bouquet, but by no means overplayed.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 CassegrainP 15.95 The junior of the two Hastings Valley Chardonnays (Fromenteau Vineyard is the top-end release made in tiny quantities) but provides further evidence that chardonnay is well suited to the warm, humid conditions of the Hastings Valley.R Drink nowS 1994U PastaX 2147Z 14/7/98a Hastings River Hastings River Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Cassegrain Hastings River Chardonnay Cassegrain $11-15 Hastings Valley 14/7/98 Cassegrain [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, ripe bouquet with honey, peach and butter flows into a soft fig and peach-flavoured palate which is not, however, particularly focused. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, ripe bouquet with honey, peach and butter flows into a soft fig and peach-flavoured palate which is not, however, particularly focused.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Chestnut GroveP 16.30Q Produced from 3 hectares of estate plantings established in 1988. Successive releases have shown increasing flavour and complexity, but right from the word go, clear varietal character has been evident.R Now-3 yearsS 1995U Asian seafoodX 2150Z 14/7/98a Pemberton Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Chestnut Grove Verdelho Chestnut Grove $16-20 r Pemberton 14/7/98 Chestnut Grove @[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fragrant, with tropical fruit salad aromas providing plenty of character. The palate follows on in fine fashion, with passionfruit and tropical fruit salad flavours, yet finishes pleasantly dry. Excellent example of varietal Verdelho. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fragrant, with tropical fruit salad aromas providing plenty of character. The palate follows on in fine fashion, with passionfruit and tropical fruit salad flavours, yet finishes pleasantly dry. Excellent example of varietal Verdelho.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 N ClevelandP The Macedon region produces a number of well-known sparkling wines which, for some strange reason, all seem to have high-flavour profiles. This conforms to the pattern; it is a blend of 45% Pinot Noir and 55% Chardonnay. R Drink nowS U ShellfishX 2153Z 14/7/98a Macedon Macedon X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Cleveland Macedon Brut c Cleveland $26-50 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 % Cleveland [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full yellow-green; a crisp, clean citrussy/tangy bouquet leads into a palate which is tighter than the 94 and has less total flavour than the 94, but better length, balance and flavour persistence in that citrussy/lemony spectrum. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a crisp, clean citrussy/tangy bouquet leads into a palate which is tighter than the 94 and has less total flavour than the 94, but better length, balance and flavour persistence in that citrussy/lemony spectrum. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 David TraegerP Something of a signature wine for David Traeger, although quality (and style) have varied somewhat over the years, suggesting the vineyard source is sensitive to climatic variation. The grapes, incidentally, are grown in the King Valley.R 1-3 yearsS 1996U Sweet and sour porkX 2159Z 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia David Traeger Verdelho David Traeger $16-20 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 David Traeger ,[3wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a voluminous, tropical honeysuckle bouquet leads into an extravagantly flavoured wine on the palate, but with some taint lurking in the depths - possibly cork, in which case the wine would be entitled to significantly higher rating. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a voluminous, tropical honeysuckle bouquet leads into an extravagantly flavoured wine on the palate, but with some taint lurking in the depths - possibly cork, in which case the wine would be entitled to significantly higher rating.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Doonkuna EstateP 18Q[At the lighter end of the spectrum, sometimes a little too leafy and minty, but not always.R Up to 5 yearsS 1994U Rack of lambX 2162Z 14/7/98a Canberra District Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Doonkuna Estate Shiraz Doonkuna Estate $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 Doonkuna Estate ,[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fresh, of light to medium intensity with a mix of spice, leaf and cherry aromas. The palate, too, is of light to medium weight, with lively spicy flavours, not a great deal of flesh, finishing with appropriately soft tannins. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fresh, of light to medium intensity with a mix of spice, leaf and cherry aromas. The palate, too, is of light to medium weight, with lively spicy flavours, not a great deal of flesh, finishing with appropriately soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Dromana EstateP This wine has everything the smartest wine drinker could ever wish for: brilliant and innovative packaging, and the full kit and caboodle of winemaking (or rather, non-winemaking) tricks. Whole-bunch pressed straight to barrel, no yeasts were added, the wine fermenting naturally, and then spending 12 months on lees. It is not filtered, and winemaker Garry Crittenden says it may be slightly cloudy when poured but 'this is a positive attribute'. Why that should be so escapes me, but this is B a high-quality wine nonetheless. Early-developing styleS 1994U KasslerX 2163Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Dromana Estate Reserve Chardonnay Dromana Estate $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Dromana Estate '[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is complex and solid with citrus and nectarine fruit surrounded by hints of charry oak. It is a remarkably smooth wine in both flavour and texture, the fruit and oak harmoniously balanced; good acidity and length. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is complex and solid with citrus and nectarine fruit surrounded by hints of charry oak. It is a remarkably smooth wine in both flavour and texture, the fruit and oak harmoniously balanced; good acidity and length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 N FreycinetP Freycinet has produced a remarkable string of vintages between 1993 and 1996 inclusive, with wines of exemplary quality and a richness of texture not often encountered in Tasmania. The wines reinforce the message of the Freycinet Pinot Noir: that the amphitheatre/bowl in which the vineyard is situated provides a unique site climate, and with it, an extra dimension of weight and flavour. The 1996 won the trophy for Best Wooded Chardonnay at the 1998 Tasmanian Wines Show. 1995U AbaloneX 2168Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Freycinet Chardonnay c Freycinet $21-25 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 % Freycinet [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and smooth, with elegant white peach fruit, the palate likewise perfectly balanced, with harmonious fruit and gently nutty oak. Manages to combine complexity with elegance. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and smooth, with elegant white peach fruit, the palate likewise perfectly balanced, with harmonious fruit and gently nutty oak. Manages to combine complexity with elegance. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Hanging RockP As the name implies, a Chardonnay made from grapes sourced in various Victorian wine regions with little or no estate contribution. A well-crafted, modestly priced wine. R Short termS 1994U PastaX 2172Z 14/7/98a Macedon Victoria Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Hanging Rock Victoria Chardonnay Hanging Rock Winery $16-20 14/7/98 arthurs creek estate@ bowen estate@ burramurra@ charles sturt university winery@ chateau tahbilk@ cope-williams@ cruickshank-callatoo estate@ devil's lair@ elderton@ evans family@ gilbert@ goundrey@ hollyclare@ houghton@ jenke vineyards@ breeze wines@ laurel bank@ buring@ hill@ rattray vineyards@ mitchell@ house@ nautilus wines@ petaluma@ pewsey vale@ pikes@ redbank winery@ rocklea vineyard@ rothbury estate@ sandstone@ helena estate@ huberts@ taylors@ turkey flat@ tyrrell's@ villa maria@ virgin hills@ whitehaven company@ yalumba@ yanwirra@ FMRLA Hanging Rock Winery [3wine glasses] 1996 Light straw-yellow; a clean, soft bouquet with fairly plain fruit but well handled gently spicy oak. The palate is pleasant, soft but basically innocuous. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light straw-yellow; a clean, soft bouquet with fairly plain fruit but well handled gently spicy oak. The palate is pleasant, soft but basically innocuous.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Harewood EstateP Immaculate viticulture, with a mixture of high-tech trellis systems (Scott Henry, Smart Dyson and Geneva Double Curtain) and varied row orientation pay dividends in this lush vineyard setting. The wine is barrel-fermented and matured in French oak for ten months. R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Seafood risottoX 2173Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Harewood Estate Chardonnay Harewood Estate $26-50 Great Southern 14/7/98 Harewood Estate 5[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a powerful and complex bouquet with malolactic fermentation, barrel fermentation and toasty oak influences woven through melon and peach fruit. The palate has good mouthfeel, with toasty/nutty/creamy flavours offset by well-balanced acidity. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a powerful and complex bouquet with malolactic fermentation, barrel fermentation and toasty oak influences woven through melon and peach fruit. The palate has good mouthfeel, with toasty/nutty/creamy flavours offset by well-balanced acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 HaselgroveP There is no question this wine is often at the baroque end of the spectrum of Australian red winemaking, a wine for a winter s night and rich food, and not to be taken lightly. The 96 vintage was the top pointed gold medal in the 1996 Shiraz (Firm Finish) Class at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show; also winner of three trophies including the Air New Zealand Perpetual Trophy for Best Wine of Show at the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competiton. 5-10+ yearsS 1991, 1994U Eye filletX 2175Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Haselgrove Reserve Shiraz Haselgrove $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Haselgrove B[5wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; there is beautifully balanced fruit and oak on both bouquet and palate with sweet chocolatey fruit balanced by fine milky vanilla oak and tannins on the palate. Despite all of the depth and lusciousness of the fruit, the wine has finesse to the point of delicacy. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; there is beautifully balanced fruit and oak on both bouquet and palate with sweet chocolatey fruit balanced by fine milky vanilla oak and tannins on the palate. Despite all of the depth and lusciousness of the fruit, the wine has finesse to the point of delicacy. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Hay Shed HillP Produced from 2.7 hectares of estate plantings, and has been one of the Hay Shed Hill range of wines right from the outset. At its best, as in 93 and 95, unambiguously good wine. Made without artifice (or oak) with the variety (and the region) doing the work. Short termS 1996U Shellfish or crustaceaX 2176Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Hay Shed Hill Sauvignon Blanc Hay Shed Hill $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Hay Shed Hill ![3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, but with discernible, gooseberry-accented varietal character, the palate following down the same light, crisp, clean track, showing lemony/gooseberry fruit. Despite its lightness, has fair length. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, but with discernible, gooseberry-accented varietal character, the palate following down the same light, crisp, clean track, showing lemony/gooseberry fruit. Despite its lightness, has fair length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 HenschkeP 19.70 In a distinctly different style from the Green s Hill (Adelaide Hills) Riesling, this wine having more concentration and power but arguably less fragrance. Stephen Henschke is not only a great red winemaker. He has also dared to bottle this wine with a Stelvin cap. Each way: now or in 5+ yearsS 1996U BarramundiX 2179Z 14/7/98a Eden Valley Julius Eden Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _$Henschke Julius Eden Valley Riesling Henschke $16-20 Eden Valley t late note 14/7/98 Henschke [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with lime, citrus and strong spicy notes, the latter almost as if the wine was lightly oaked (it is not, of course). The palate is full, with tropical lime fruit, and on the heavy side. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with lime, citrus and strong spicy notes, the latter almost as if the wine was lightly oaked (it is not, of course). The palate is full, with tropical lime fruit, and on the heavy side.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Brian BarryP Hand Picked , so the label proclaims, and a new release for the Jud s Hill label. An interesting wine, with true Merlot varietal character or as true as one can find it in Australia.R Medium termS 1994U Veal steakX 2181Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley s Hill Handpicked Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _(Brian Barry Jud s Hill Handpicked Merlot Brian Barry Wines $21-25 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Brian Barry Wines %[4wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; a quite fragrant and fine bouquet with distinct and correct varietal character showing a mix of leaf and spicy medicinal aromas. An elegant and complex wine on the palate with nuances of leaf, spice and bitter chocolate; soft tannins. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a quite fragrant and fine bouquet with distinct and correct varietal character showing a mix of leaf and spicy medicinal aromas. An elegant and complex wine on the palate with nuances of leaf, spice and bitter chocolate; soft tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Brian BarryP 12.50 As with all of the Jud s Hill wines, estate-grown and produced from vines which are now fully mature. An utterly dependable wine, invariably showing that tight, reserved Clare Valley fruit character, and which ages as well as one would expect.R Now-5+ yearsS 1996U Caesar saladX 2182Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley s Hill Handpicked Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _*Brian Barry Jud s Hill Handpicked Riesling Brian Barry Wines $11-15 Clare Valley t late note 14/7/98 Brian Barry Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; a clean, light and crisp bouquet with a mix of citrus and more minerally notes is followed by a fine, firm but relatively lean palate with fair length, and which simply begs to be cellared. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a clean, light and crisp bouquet with a mix of citrus and more minerally notes is followed by a fine, firm but relatively lean palate with fair length, and which simply begs to be cellared.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 KillerbyP ^The Cabernet Sauvignon is the other top performer in the Killerby stable. It is produced from 4 hectares of estate plantings which are now 22 years old, and over the years has accumulated seven trophies and innumerable gold medals. In fact a blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, it is matured in French oak for just under two years. Up to 7 yearsS 1994U Mature cheddarX 2187Z 14/7/98a Geographe Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Killerby Cabernet Sauvignon Killerby $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Killerby C[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is extremely herbaceous, with a mix of capsicum, olive and berry fruit, but, as with the Chardonnay, the palate delivers far more. While firm, and with some olive/herbaceous overtones to the core of cassis, fruit, has good length, structure and tannins. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is extremely herbaceous, with a mix of capsicum, olive and berry fruit, but, as with the Chardonnay, the palate delivers far more. While firm, and with some olive/herbaceous overtones to the core of cassis, fruit, has good length, structure and tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Lenswood VineyardsP Produced from 7.6 hectares, which is in fact the largest varietal planting at Lenswood Vineyards (22 hectares in all) and which makes a quite superlative wine. The 1997 was the only gold medal winner in its class at the 1997 Adelaide Hills Wine Show, heading a star-studded field. Short termS 1996U ShellfishX 2189Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _"Lenswood Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Lenswood Vineyards $21-25 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Lenswood Vineyards 0[5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; attractive, lively passionfruit, herb and gooseberry aromas dance along a fragrant bouquet. It has masses of passionfruit, gooseberry and tropical fruit, with just a touch of herbaceousness lurking underneath to give the wine structure and bite. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; attractive, lively passionfruit, herb and gooseberry aromas dance along a fragrant bouquet. It has masses of passionfruit, gooseberry and tropical fruit, with just a touch of herbaceousness lurking underneath to give the wine structure and bite.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 N LindemansP A winemaking tour de force, and one of the world s leading brands of Chardonnay. It is sourced from no less than 14 different wine-growing regions across southeastern Australia, and shows no sign of buckling under the ever-increasing production volumes. It has been praised by wine critics around the world, and is the only wine to have ever been rated a Best Buy by the Wine Spectator for nine consecutive vintages. The 97 is arguably the best yet under this label, with a string of bronze B^and silver medals in capital city wine shows and a gold medal in a major overseas competition. R Drink nowS 1995U Virtually anything you chooseX 2193Z 14/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill Bin 65 Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay Lindemans (Karadoc) e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia t late note 14/7/98 Lindemans (Karadoc) l[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with melon and peach fruit and excellently balanced use of a touch of oak. The palate lives up to the bouquet, with similar melon and peach fruit, and an ever so cunning touch of spicy oak, doubtless from the use of innerstaves and chips, but extremely well done. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with melon and peach fruit and excellently balanced use of a touch of oak. The palate lives up to the bouquet, with similar melon and peach fruit, and an ever so cunning touch of spicy oak, doubtless from the use of innerstaves and chips, but extremely well done. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Matilda s MeadowP 23.50Q Produced from unirrigated vineyards at Scottsdale, and a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc. Notwithstanding the fact that it spends 15 months in French oak, it is a predominantly fruit-driven style.R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Beef sirloinX 2200Z 14/7/98a Great Southern N!Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Cabernet Blends Z Australia _2Matilda s Meadow Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Matilda s Meadow $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 Matilda s Meadow 9[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with quite fragrant cassis, mint, cedar and leaf aromas. The palate is lively, with crisp, juicy leaf, minty and berry flavours, and minimal tannins. As ever, simply doesn't show the time it has spent in oak. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with quite fragrant cassis, mint, cedar and leaf aromas. The palate is lively, with crisp, juicy leaf, minty and berry flavours, and minimal tannins. As ever, simply doesn't show the time it has spent in oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 MirandaP 15.95 Introduced in 1993, and the only Semillon Riesling blend so far marketed in Australia. The 93 was a blend of 65% Semillon and 35% Riesling; in 1994 the percentages swapped around to 53% Riesling and 47% Semillon, the Riesling coming from the King Valley and the Semillon from Griffith. Both the 93 and 94 wines were of great quality, and prolific gold medal winners in wine shows. Since 1993 has been of outstanding quality, the 96 and 97 vintages providing the two gold medals in Class 38B& at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show. R Drink nowS 1994U Fruit ice-cream, sweet pastriesX 2204Z 14/7/98a Riverina Golden Botrytis Sweet Sweet Z Australia Miranda Golden Botrytis Miranda $11-15 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 Miranda [5wine glasses] 1997 Deep, bright yellow; an incredibly rich and intense wine with complex cumquat and lime aromas and flavours, balanced by powerful acidity on the finish. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Deep, bright yellow; an incredibly rich and intense wine with complex cumquat and lime aromas and flavours, balanced by powerful acidity on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 MitchellP Made from old, unirrigated bush-pruned vines, principally from a vineyard purchased by the Mitchells in 1994. It has a thumping 15 degrees alcohol, and, in the manner of the Rh ne Valley, receives no oak ageing. Grown by the Mitchell, Haig and Pulford families. Up to 10 yearsS 1995U Game pieX 2205Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley The Growers Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Mitchell The Growers Grenache Mitchell $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Mitchell A[3wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity with earthy/berry fruit and hints of spice. The palate does not provide the texture one expects, nor at the end of the day the fruit intensity, with the alcohol poking through on the finish. Grenache is a tricky beast to handle. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity with earthy/berry fruit and hints of spice. The palate does not provide the texture one expects, nor at the end of the day the fruit intensity, with the alcohol poking through on the finish. Grenache is a tricky beast to handle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Mount HelenP \This wine formed part of the re-launch of the Mount Helen label in early 1995, and it is easy to see why it was selected for this purpose. An estate-grown wine, now reaching the peak of its development. The outstanding 91 has been followed by a good 94 and an even better 96, winning the trophy for Best Cabernet at the 1997 Victorian Wine Show. Now-4 yearsS 1994U Yearling beefX 2207Z 14/7/98a Central Victorian High Country Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Mount Helen Cabernet Merlot Mount Helen $21-25 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Mount Helen [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; smooth and rich blackcurrant fruit aromas, with touches of vanilla and caramel, lead into a full-bodied but smooth palate. Here cassis/redcurrant fruit is supported by soft tannins and ever so slightly hessiany oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; smooth and rich blackcurrant fruit aromas, with touches of vanilla and caramel, lead into a full-bodied but smooth palate. Here cassis/redcurrant fruit is supported by soft tannins and ever so slightly hessiany oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 N Mount IdaP eA single-vineyard wine produced from an estate established by noted Australian artist Leonard French, but which was acquired by Tisdall in the 1980s. Produced in limited quantities, but well worth the search. Smart new packaging, bringing it into line with the Mount Helen releases, was introduced in 1997. In that year the 96 vintage won four gold medals. Now-5 yearsS 1994U Australian parmesanX 2208Z 14/7/98a Bendigo Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Mount Ida Shiraz c Mount Ida $21-25 Bendigo 14/7/98 % Mount Ida .[4wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; the bouquet is full and rich, with abundant dark berry fruit, although the oak is a tad assertive. A big, concentrated, splashy oaky show style on the palate; while there is plenty of fruit, a little less oak might have made an even better wine. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet is full and rich, with abundant dark berry fruit, although the oak is a tad assertive. A big, concentrated, splashy oaky show style on the palate; while there is plenty of fruit, a little less oak might have made an even better wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 N MountadamP bIn my view, has been the outstanding red wine from Mountadam, year in, year out. The 93 was magnificent, the 94 very good. The grapes are produced from low-yielding Eden Valley vineyards established on sandy soils, and the wine is matured in a mix of American and French oak barrels for 12 months. The 95 apparently fell victim to an ordinary vintage. 5-10 yearsS 1994U Barbecued beefX 2212Z 14/7/98a Eden Valley M Patriarch Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Mountadam Patriarch Shiraz c Mountadam $26-50 Eden Valley 14/7/98 % Mountadam [3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, but with slightly diffuse dark cherry and plum fruit. The palate is pleasant and smooth, but lacks the richness and concentration of preceding vintages, and comes as something of a disappointment. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, but with slightly diffuse dark cherry and plum fruit. The palate is pleasant and smooth, but lacks the richness and concentration of preceding vintages, and comes as something of a disappointment.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 Padthaway EstateP 14.99Q First made in the 1995 vintage and pressed in the traditional Champagne press at Padthaway Estate. The wine was cold fermented, and a small portion taken through malolactic fermentation to give extra complexity.R Short termS 1995U Seafood, shellfishX 2214Z 14/7/98a Padthaway Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Padthaway Estate Unwooded Chardonnay Padthaway Estate $11-15 r Padthaway 14/7/98 Padthaway Estate T[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-straw; the bouquet is fragrant, though very light, with a hint of passionfruit, possibly deriving from yeast. The palate shows some of the same characters, with some regional grapefruit to go along with the passionfruit; fresh and tangy, and works better than most unwooded Chardonnays. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-straw; the bouquet is fragrant, though very light, with a hint of passionfruit, possibly deriving from yeast. The palate shows some of the same characters, with some regional grapefruit to go along with the passionfruit; fresh and tangy, and works better than most unwooded Chardonnays.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Padthaway EstateP 19.99 A blend of 85% Pinot Noir and 12% Chardonnay and 3% Pinot Meunier. Interestingly, the base wines are barrel-fermented (doubtless in old oak barrels), and use is made of older reserve wine in the fashion of Champagne.R Drink nowS 1992U Aperitif, light hors d oeuvresX 2216Z 14/7/98a Padthaway Pinot Chardonnay X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _'Padthaway Estate Pinot Chardonnay Cuv Padthaway Estate $16-20 r Padthaway 14/7/98 Padthaway Estate *[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full yellow-green; a very full and complex bouquet with biscuity/wet dog aromas reminiscent of Champagne. The palate is similarly complex with biscuit, cinnamon and apple flavours, and a faintly phenolic finish. Interesting wine full of character. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a very full and complex bouquet with biscuity/wet dog aromas reminiscent of Champagne. The palate is similarly complex with biscuit, cinnamon and apple flavours, and a faintly phenolic finish. Interesting wine full of character.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 PalmersP 17Q\Produced from 2 hectares of estate Sauvignon Blanc, and made in a no-frills, unwooded style.R Short termS 1996U ScampiX 2217Z 14/7/98 Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Palmers Sauvignon Blanc Palmers $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Palmers l[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; there are some intriguing aromas on the bouquet ranging from pear through apple to more conventional ripe gooseberry notes. The palate shows predominantly gooseberry flavours, a touch of mineral bite, and also a touch of SO2 which roughens up the finish slightly. Should settle down with time. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there are some intriguing aromas on the bouquet ranging from pear through apple to more conventional ripe gooseberry notes. The palate shows predominantly gooseberry flavours, a touch of mineral bite, and also a touch of SO2 which roughens up the finish slightly. Should settle down with time.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Penley EstateP A blend of 50% Shiraz and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from Coonawarra (65%), the balance from McLaren Vale (25%) and Barossa Valley (10%). Matured for two years in a mix of 75% American and 25% French (Troncais) oak. Like the Cabernet Sauvignon, a prolific medal winner. R 5-8 yearsS 1994U Soft ripened cheeseX 2219Z 14/7/98a Coonawarra Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia Penley Estate Shiraz Cabernet Penley Estate $21-25 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Penley Estate [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium to full intensity, with earthy blackberry fruit and subtle oak. Sweet cassis berry flavours come through strongly on the forepalate before moving through to a firmer finish. Nicely judged oak. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium to full intensity, with earthy blackberry fruit and subtle oak. Sweet cassis berry flavours come through strongly on the forepalate before moving through to a firmer finish. Nicely judged oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Pewsey ValeP 2Produced from 13 hectares of estate plantings, and grown in an unequivocally cool climate, particularly when compared to the floor of the Barossa Valley. The site and the climate contribute to an elegant style which can be a little too herbaceous in the cooler vintages, but works well in the warmer years. Medium term 3-5 yearsS 1994U Wild mushroom risottoX 2224Z 14/7/98a Eden Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Pewsey Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Pewsey Vale $11-15 Eden Valley 14/7/98 Pewsey Vale H[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is firm, not particularly complex, but with clean, dark berry fruit. The palate has some substance, albeit constructed in a direct, no-frills fashion. Here the flavours veer more to red berry, with hints of cassis; oak is a more or less incidental visitor. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is firm, not particularly complex, but with clean, dark berry fruit. The palate has some substance, albeit constructed in a direct, no-frills fashion. Here the flavours veer more to red berry, with hints of cassis; oak is a more or less incidental visitor.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 PlantagenetP %The 94 vintage of this wine proved emphatically that, if the vintage conditions are right, Mount Barker can produce excellent Pinot Noir. The following vintages have, quite frankly, been disappointing, although Goundrey did well in 1996, pointing to the extremely fickle nature of Pinot Noir. R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Char-grilled salmonX 2226Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Plantagenet Pinot Noir Plantagenet $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 Plantagenet [3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium red; the bouquet is simple and direct with light, fresh cherry fruit aromas; the palate, too, is simple and lacking the excitement of top Pinot Noir. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red; the bouquet is simple and direct with light, fresh cherry fruit aromas; the palate, too, is simple and lacking the excitement of top Pinot Noir.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Primo EstateP SAs the name suggests, produced primarily from the 2.6 hectares of 21-year-old estate plantings at the home vineyard on the Adelaide Plains. Out of this hot and unforgiving environment, Joe Grilli has fashioned a remarkably good wine, utilising open fermenters and ageing in a mix of new and older American, French and German oak puncheons. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U PizzaX 2229Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Plains Adelaide Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Primo Estate Adelaide Shiraz Primo Estate $16-20 Adelaide Plains 14/7/98 Primo Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; there are quite complex aromas with spicy/leafy Shiraz offset by sweet oak. The smoothness and sophistication of the wine becomes immediately apparent on the marvellous palate, with gentle, soft mouthfilling fruit showing touches of chocolate together with the red berry fruit, surrounded by sweetly soft oak and finishing with perfectly judged tannins. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; there are quite complex aromas with spicy/leafy Shiraz offset by sweet oak. The smoothness and sophistication of the wine becomes immediately apparent on the marvellous palate, with gentle, soft mouthfilling fruit showing touches of chocolate together with the red berry fruit, surrounded by sweetly soft oak and finishing with perfectly judged tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Richmond GroveP 12.95 A twin to the Watervale Riesling, likewise made by John Vickery, and a supremely honest wine offering plenty of flavour from a young age. The 97 and 95 vintages respectively provided a unique double in winning the only two gold medals in Class 30 at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show. Short termS 1995U Pasta, white meat dishesX 2231Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valleyf Barossa Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Richmond Grove Barossa Riesling Richmond Grove $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Richmond Grove 5[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; spotlessly clean, with the first signs of honey developing, but with good concentration. A seductive palate with ripe lime, citrus and honey fruit flavours, and excellent mouthfeel. Showing none of the flatness expected from Riesling in transition. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; spotlessly clean, with the first signs of honey developing, but with good concentration. A seductive palate with ripe lime, citrus and honey fruit flavours, and excellent mouthfeel. Showing none of the flatness expected from Riesling in transition.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 SandalfordP 19.95QSFirst appeared on the scene with the 93 vintage, and has improved each year since.R Up to 5 yearsS 1994U Lamb chopsX 2233Z 14/7/98a Swan District Margaret River Mount Barker Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _-Sandalford Margaret River Mount Barker Shiraz Sandalford $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Sandalford [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid and rich, with dark berry and mint fruit aromas. The palate is equivalently rich, with abundant sweet juicy fruit in a blackberry/mulberry/plum spectrum; the oak handling is subtle throughout. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid and rich, with dark berry and mint fruit aromas. The palate is equivalently rich, with abundant sweet juicy fruit in a blackberry/mulberry/plum spectrum; the oak handling is subtle throughout. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Seppelt Great WesternP Anyone with Chalambar Shiraz made between 1953 and 1963 in their cellar will have one of Australia s great red wines, still drinking superbly if the cork has held. From 1963 onwards, following the retirement of Colin Preece, it was all downhill, with sporadic releases of vastly inferior quality, label changes and general brand neglect. However, the 1990s has seen a significant return to form with the 94 deservedly winning three trophies at the 1996 Royal Sydney Wine Show and the 96 doingB even better at Adelaide and Canberra in 1997. It is sourced from Great Western, Ovens Valley, Geelong and Bendigo and spends 17 months in a mix of predominantly new American and French oak barrels. Medium term 3-6 yearsS 1994U Braised game dishesX 2235Z 14/7/98a Grampians M Chalambar Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _&Seppelt Great Western Chalambar Shiraz Seppelt Great Western $16-20 Great Western 14/7/98 Seppelt Great Western +[5wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; a wine which shows exceptional varietal character throughout, with a marvellous amalgam of liquorice, game and spice on the bouquet, mixed with touches of sweet cherry and mint on the palate. A wine with excellent vinosity and a soft finish. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; a wine which shows exceptional varietal character throughout, with a marvellous amalgam of liquorice, game and spice on the bouquet, mixed with touches of sweet cherry and mint on the palate. A wine with excellent vinosity and a soft finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Seppelt Great WesternP The Sunday Creek name comes from Western Victoria, where the creek in question flows near the Seppelt Drumborg Vineyard. As with all of the Sunday Creek releases, Drumborg produces almost all of the limited production of this underrated wine. The 96 has been a prolific trophy and gold medal winner at national wine shows throughout 1997, often upstaging far more expensive (and better known) Pinots. Just when wholesale and retail supplies were exhausted, the 96 won two trophies at the 1998BX Royal Sydney Wine Show, for Best Pinot Noir and Best Red Wine Not Exceeding $15 Retail. R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Quail or duckX 2236Z 14/7/98a Grampians Sunday Creek Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _-Seppelt Great Western Sunday Creek Pinot Noir Seppelt Great Western $11-15 Great Western 14/7/98 Seppelt Great Western [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; the wine has a great bouquet, with complex yet soft cherry and plum fruit, characters which also drive the supple plummy palate. Has swallowed up the new French oak in which it was matured. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the wine has a great bouquet, with complex yet soft cherry and plum fruit, characters which also drive the supple plummy palate. Has swallowed up the new French oak in which it was matured.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Sevenhill CellarsP With 11.4 hectares, shiraz is the dominant variety among the 56 hectares of Sevenhill's vineyard holdings. With the resurgence in interest in Shiraz, it is a great asset, particularly given the age of the vines. The 93 vintage was a magnificent wine, with extraordinary spice and liquorice varietal character, reflecting the cool vintage. The subsequent vintages are awesome in their power, but really needed more work to bring out the best in them. 10-15 yearsS 1995U Barbecued beefX 2238Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Sevenhill Cellars Shiraz Sevenhill Cellars $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Sevenhill Cellars [4wine glasses] 1996 Strong purple-red; rich, ripe, potent juicy berry fruit in typical slightly callow style. The palate is ripe and concentrated, loaded with blackberry and cherry fruit. As with the preceding vintages, needs time in bottle. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong purple-red; rich, ripe, potent juicy berry fruit in typical slightly callow style. The palate is ripe and concentrated, loaded with blackberry and cherry fruit. As with the preceding vintages, needs time in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 St HubertsP The Yarra Valley was famous for its Marsanne in the nineteenth century, and St Hubert s neighbour Yeringberg reintroduced that grape to the Valley in the 1970s, following with small plantings of roussanne, paralleled by plantings at St Huberts. This is one of the rarest wines in Australia, and 1994 marked the first release from St Huberts; cellar door is the best bet to find the wine. R 3-5 yearsS 1996U Pork with apple or peachX 2242Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley N Roussanne White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia St Huberts Roussanne St Huberts $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 St Huberts [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, with gently tropical/citrus/honeysuckle aromas. The wine has pleasant mouthfeel, although at the end of the day the label is probably more exciting than the wine in the glass. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, with gently tropical/citrus/honeysuckle aromas. The wine has pleasant mouthfeel, although at the end of the day the label is probably more exciting than the wine in the glass.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 N Stonier This is the standard release from the winery, made in far greater quantities than the Reserve, although the label design is not greatly different. Curiously, relatively cheap bottles, corks and capsules are used; one might argue the wine deserves better. It is produced from grapes sourced largely from 10 hectares of estate plantings. A total style contrast to the Reserve Chardonnay, which is exactly as it should be. R Drink nowS 1995U Pasta, rich seafoodX 2246Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Stonier s Chardonnay c Stonier $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 % Stonier [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet has attractive fruit, but there is a distinct and distracting burnt match overtone. The palate, too, shows lively citrus and melon fruit, but you can't escape the burnt match. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet has attractive fruit, but there is a distinct and distracting burnt match overtone. The palate, too, shows lively citrus and melon fruit, but you can't escape the burnt match.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 N Stonier @Like the Chardonnay, the volume brand for Stonier s, derived from 10 hectares of estate plantings. The winemaking skills of Tod Dexter are very much apparent; he is totally at ease in dealing with cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and has managed to clearly define the line between the varietal and Reserve ranges. Short termS 1996U Game of any kindX 2247Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Stonier s Pinot Noir c Stonier $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 % Stonier 2[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is full of ripe, sweet plummy fruit, as is the palate. Still in its primary phase, but has both the fruit and tannin to develop marvellously well. Underlines the outstanding vintage; the Reserve Pinot Noir should be exceptional. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is full of ripe, sweet plummy fruit, as is the palate. Still in its primary phase, but has both the fruit and tannin to develop marvellously well. Underlines the outstanding vintage; the Reserve Pinot Noir should be exceptional.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 GallantP An extraordinarily powerful and complex wine at its best, sometimes nearing 15 degrees alcohol. The grapes come from the vineyard of Madeleine and Patrick McCabe. The Tribute, incidentally, is to the distinguished viticulturist and consultant Max Loader. R"Uncertain, quite possibly 5+ yearsS 1995U GravlaxX 2248Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Tribute Pinot Gris White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Gallant Tribute Pinot Gris c T'Gallant $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 % T'Gallant [5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a clean, firm tangy bouquet with echoes of fruit spice; the bouquet is firm and tangy, with the usually high alcohol not overly obvious, although there is that extra dimension of flesh compared to the Flag Pinot Grigio. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a clean, firm tangy bouquet with echoes of fruit spice; the bouquet is firm and tangy, with the usually high alcohol not overly obvious, although there is that extra dimension of flesh compared to the Flag Pinot Grigio.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Turkey FlatP A quite delicious wine, made from a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Shiraz. The addition of the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz components in fact takes the wine from a conventional Ros -style towards a light-bodied dry red, an elusive goal for most winemakers. R Drink nowS Nothing or anythingX 2251Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Z Australia Turkey Flat Ros Turkey Flat $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Turkey Flat [4wine glasses] 1997 Vivid fuschia pink; as you would expect, the bouquet is clean and fresh, with a mix of vibrant cherry and more herbal notes. The palate is fresh, with the crisp young fruit neatly balanced by a touch of sweetness on the finish. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Vivid fuschia pink; as you would expect, the bouquet is clean and fresh, with a mix of vibrant cherry and more herbal notes. The palate is fresh, with the crisp young fruit neatly balanced by a touch of sweetness on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Vasse FelixP Drawn primarily from 4 hectares of estate plantings. A very richly structured wine with an unusual depth of flavour, enhanced by 100% barrel fermentation in mainly new French oak, and five months in barrel thereafter. R Each way - now or 5+ yearsS 1996U Coquilles St JacquesX 2253Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Vasse Felix Semillon Vasse Felix $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Vasse Felix 1[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; sophisticated spicy/charry oak leads the bouquet into a very rich palate, which carries the oak very well, for there are masses of lemon and tropical fruit flavours. Despite all this flavour, not heavy, and has good balance and length. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; sophisticated spicy/charry oak leads the bouquet into a very rich palate, which carries the oak very well, for there are masses of lemon and tropical fruit flavours. Despite all this flavour, not heavy, and has good balance and length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Vasse FelixP Draws upon a little under 7 hectares of estate plantings, and over the years has produced some outstanding wines. The 1983 vintage, tasted in 1993 was wonderfully complex, rich and full with a touch of Rh ne Valley gaminess. Since 1991 the quality of the wine has been outstanding, and it has enjoyed extraordinary success in wine shows, the 1996 winning trophies for Best Shiraz and Best Varietal Dry Red Table Wine (Any Variety) at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show. Long term - 7-15 yearsS& 1995U Rich casserolesX 2254Z 14/7/98 Margaret River Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Vasse Felix Shiraz Vasse Felix $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Vasse Felix :[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a rich and complex bouquet with abundantly lush and ripe fruit, though lots of oak influence evident. A wine with lots of flavour and character in a no-holds-barred show style; blackberry fruit is touched by spice and surrounded by vanillin oak. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a rich and complex bouquet with abundantly lush and ripe fruit, though lots of oak influence evident. A wine with lots of flavour and character in a no-holds-barred show style; blackberry fruit is touched by spice and surrounded by vanillin oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Vasse FelixP For decades the flag-bearer of Vasse Felix, always made in a lighter, more elegant style than most of the big names in the Margaret River, but none the worse for that. Relies in part upon 3 hectares of estate plantings, supplemented by intake from other Margaret River growers. 5-10 yearsS 1994U Lamb cutletsX 2255Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon Vasse Felix $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Vasse Felix 0[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a similar potent bouquet to that of the Heytesbury, with leafy/minty/earthy aromas; herbaceous fruit is partially balanced by sweet, high-quality vanilla oak on the palate, but one is left to wonder what went on in the vineyard in 1996. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a similar potent bouquet to that of the Heytesbury, with leafy/minty/earthy aromas; herbaceous fruit is partially balanced by sweet, high-quality vanilla oak on the palate, but one is left to wonder what went on in the vineyard in 1996.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 N WarramateP ;In the past, the style of the Riesling has wobbled around a bit, reflecting in part the difficulties of making a wine of this type in small quantities in limited winery facilities. The arrival of David Church, with dual qualifications as medical practitioner and winemaker, has resulted in a more than useful wine. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Yarra Valley goat s cheeseX 2258Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Warramate Riesling c Warramate $11-15 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 % Warramate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet shows pungent lime-rind characters together with some odd spicy notes. The palate veers off in a different direction, with delicate pastille fruit, finishing with fractionally hard acidity. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet shows pungent lime-rind characters together with some odd spicy notes. The palate veers off in a different direction, with delicate pastille fruit, finishing with fractionally hard acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 YalumbaP A strikingly packaged blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier coming from Yalumba s network of vineyards in the Adelaide Hills, and fashioned without the use of oak.R Short termS 1995U Blue-lipped musselsX 2263Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Antipodean White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Yalumba Antipodean Yalumba $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Yalumba 1[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is intense, with crisp but nicely ripened sauvignon blanc to the fore, filled out by the other varieties in the blend. The palate is similarly driven by sauvignon blanc; crisp, clean and refreshing, but has substance and mouthfeel. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is intense, with crisp but nicely ripened sauvignon blanc to the fore, filled out by the other varieties in the blend. The palate is similarly driven by sauvignon blanc; crisp, clean and refreshing, but has substance and mouthfeel.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 YeringbergP KIn fact simply labelled Yeringberg (as is the dry red) in the tradition of the nineteenth-century label, which is faithfully reproduced. The wine is predominantly Marsanne, with just a touch of Roussanne, and in 1994 achieved a level of flavour and richness which one imagines the great wines of the nineteenth century possessed. Who knows? Perhaps a centuryS 1995U Snowy Mountains troutX 2265Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Marsanne/Roussanne White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Yeringberg Marsanne/Roussanne Yeringberg $26-50 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 Yeringberg 7[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a spotlessly clean but fragrant and tangy bouquet has citrus/lemon characters akin to that of sauvignon blanc. The palate has considerable presence, with attractive, ripe pear and lemon flavours. Long finish; carries the 14 degrees alcohol with ease. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a spotlessly clean but fragrant and tangy bouquet has citrus/lemon characters akin to that of sauvignon blanc. The palate has considerable presence, with attractive, ripe pear and lemon flavours. Long finish; carries the 14 degrees alcohol with ease.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 !N AllandaleP Utilises 2 hectares of estate plantings, part of which are used for Semillon Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay Semillon blends. The best component is released as a straight varietal, made in the classic style without oak influence. An interesting comment on the back label of the 97 says The vintage conditions were both difficult and challenging. Past history has show the wetter years often produce the best Semillons. A true statement, and certainly true in this instance. Up to 10 yearsS 1995U Summer saladsX 2267Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Allandale Semillon c Allandale $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 % Allandale ([4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a penetrating and full bouquet with lemony/herbaceous varietal character is supported by an attractive minerally undertone. The palate has excellent flavour and length, lively and fresh with lemony characters. Good length and balance. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a penetrating and full bouquet with lemony/herbaceous varietal character is supported by an attractive minerally undertone. The palate has excellent flavour and length, lively and fresh with lemony characters. Good length and balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 BindiP 27.75 A wine which has acquired a cult status not far removed from that of Giaconda. Except in vintages such as 95 (high yielding across most southern Victorian regions, and generally resulting in lighter Pinot Noir) the wine is notable for its strength and by the standards of Pinot longevity. The 94 vintage, reviewed in the 1998 edition of Companion, has developed superbly over the past two years, with powerful foresty/plummy/earthy flavours to the fore (92 points), while the 93 vintage B%is another long-lived, powerful wine. Short termS 1994U SquabX 2270Z 14/7/98a Macedon Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Bindi Pinot Noir Bindi Wine Growers $26-50 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 Bindi Wine Growers [4wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; a rich, deep, solid briar and plum bouquet is followed by a formidably strong palate, with dense plummy fruit. Early in its life, seems to dip slightly and shorten on the finish, but may well change shape if the 94 is any guide. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; a rich, deep, solid briar and plum bouquet is followed by a formidably strong palate, with dense plummy fruit. Early in its life, seems to dip slightly and shorten on the finish, but may well change shape if the 94 is any guide.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Boston BayP The 1 hectare of cabernet sauvignon is now 12 years old, and in years such as 93 and 95 produced a wine of distinctive style and quality, although in cooler vintages herbaceous characters tend to take over.R Medium term: 5-7 yearsS 1993U Rack of lambX 2272Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Boston Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Boston Bay Wines $11-15 Southern Eyre Peninsula 14/7/98 Boston Bay Wines -[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is moderately sweet, with a nice range of cedar, cigar, briar and chocolate aromas, and the palate is if anything even more attractive than the bouquet, with cedar, cassis and a touch of bitter chocolate. Good tannin structure. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is moderately sweet, with a nice range of cedar, cigar, briar and chocolate aromas, and the palate is if anything even more attractive than the bouquet, with cedar, cassis and a touch of bitter chocolate. Good tannin structure.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Briar RidgeP The label proudly proclaims that the grapes were hand-picked, which I suppose is a sign of the times, although still remaining standard practice with the majority of Australia s smaller wineries. A competently made wine in which the barrel-ferment oak influence has been kept under better control than the more expensive Chairman s Selection Chardonnay, which is a touch oaky for my taste. Short termS 1996U ed vealX 2273Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Hand Picked Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"Briar Ridge Hand Picked Chardonnay Briar Ridge $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Briar Ridge [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, buttery bouquet with some peachy notes and well-handled oak introduces a well-balanced palate with peachy fruit supported by a touch of charry oak, and well-balanced acidity lifting the finish. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, buttery bouquet with some peachy notes and well-handled oak introduces a well-balanced palate with peachy fruit supported by a touch of charry oak, and well-balanced acidity lifting the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Briar RidgeP Named in honour of veteran winemaker Karl Stockhausen, who spent decades with Lindemans in the Hunter Valley, commencing his winemaking career there in 1960. Now a consultant to Briar Ridge, and brings his vast experience into play.R Each way 3-10+ yearsS! 1995U Braised lamb shanksX 2274Z 14/7/98 Lower Hunter Valley Stockhausen N Hermitage Shiraz Z Australia _!Briar Ridge Stockhausen Hermitage Briar Ridge $21-25 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Briar Ridge 1[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; an ultra-typical young, earthy Hunter shiraz bouquet with hints of boot polish and subtle oak is followed by a palate on which red cherry and raspberry fruit comes to the fore. Attractively soft and fine tannins round off a very good young wine. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; an ultra-typical young, earthy Hunter shiraz bouquet with hints of boot polish and subtle oak is followed by a palate on which red cherry and raspberry fruit comes to the fore. Attractively soft and fine tannins round off a very good young wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Burge FamilyP )QvFrom the 2-hectare plantings on the Olive Hill vineyard; made in particularly full-bodied style from old estate vines.R Each way - now-3+ yearsS 1995U Honeyed chickenX 2275Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Olive Hill Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _ Burge Family Olive Hill Riesling Burge Family Winemakers $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Burge Family Winemakers [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a powerful, ripe bouquet with tropical lime aromas and similar flavours on the very rich, full-bodied palate. Others will possibly rate it more generously RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a powerful, ripe bouquet with tropical lime aromas and similar flavours on the very rich, full-bodied palate. Others will possibly rate it more generously<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 ClonakillaP Made in a consistent style throughout the 1990s, always showing considerable flavour, and quite often exhibiting a not unpleasant character which I can only describe as slightly cosmetic.R Now-4 yearsS 1996U Spiced Asian dishesX 2277Z 14/7/98a Canberra District Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Clonakilla Riesling Clonakilla $11-15 Canberra District 14/7/98 Clonakilla w[4wine glasses] 1997 Bright, light to medium yellow-green; there is quite intense lime/mineral fruit on the bouquet, which is rich but not heavy. The palate is more elegant and restrained than the bouquet suggests, but has excellent balance and flavour, with lime and mineral notes on the moderately long finish. Good Riesling; the best yet from Clonakilla. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright, light to medium yellow-green; there is quite intense lime/mineral fruit on the bouquet, which is rich but not heavy. The palate is more elegant and restrained than the bouquet suggests, but has excellent balance and flavour, with lime and mineral notes on the moderately long finish. Good Riesling; the best yet from Clonakilla.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 DulcineaP Very competent and tightly controlled winemaking has produced a finely crafted wine. The wine spends six months in French oak. The 96 is a stylish, elegant wine which won a gold medal at the 1997 Ballarat Wine Show.R Short to medium term 2-4 yearsS 1995U Chinese cashew prawnsX 2280Z 14/7/98a Ballarat Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Dulcinea Chardonnay Dulcinea $16-20 Bendigo 14/7/98 Dulcinea 2[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is relatively light, but has an appealing mix of cashew, melon and dried fig aromas woven through subtle oak. The elegant palate is very tangy and citrussy, with a long, cleansing finish. Tends to challenge rather than soothe. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is relatively light, but has an appealing mix of cashew, melon and dried fig aromas woven through subtle oak. The elegant palate is very tangy and citrussy, with a long, cleansing finish. Tends to challenge rather than soothe.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 GralynP Made by and named after son Michael Hutton, produced from 20-year-old shiraz vines, and matured in a mix of new French and American oak. The 1994 vintage won a silver medal at the Perth Show in open competition against wines from all over Australia; the 95 did even better, winning silver at both the Perth Show and even more significantly the Sheraton Wine Awards. The 96 repeated almost exactly the performance of the 7-10 yearsS 1995U Strong red meat dishesX 2285Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Michael Hutton Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Gralyn Michael Hutton Shiraz Gralyn Cellars $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Gralyn Cellars +[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a rich, full and ripe bouquet with complex black cherry/gamey varietal fruit leads into a very good palate, with liquorice, boot polish and game varietal flavours supported by well-handled vanillin oak. The best yet under this label. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a rich, full and ripe bouquet with complex black cherry/gamey varietal fruit leads into a very good palate, with liquorice, boot polish and game varietal flavours supported by well-handled vanillin oak. The best yet under this label.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 KarinaP 19QYReally impressed with the 94 vintage, which is in true-blue Mornington Peninsula style. R Short termS 1996U Grilled spatchcockX 2293Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Karina Chardonnay Karina Vineyard $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Karina Vineyard x[4wine glasses] 1996 Full yellow, reminiscent of New Zealand Chardonnay. The New Zealand connection continues with the strong, complex bouquet with its mix of buttery/cashew and citrus/herbal characters. The palate is also complex, with more of those sweet and sour flavours; there is a slight hole in the mid-palate, followed by firm acidity on the finish. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full yellow, reminiscent of New Zealand Chardonnay. The New Zealand connection continues with the strong, complex bouquet with its mix of buttery/cashew and citrus/herbal characters. The palate is also complex, with more of those sweet and sour flavours; there is a slight hole in the mid-palate, followed by firm acidity on the finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 KillerbyP Produced from 4.5 hectares of estate plantings. The light, near-sand soils of the coastal plain normally produce relatively light-bodied wines, but it is possible to produce full-bodied reds if the conditions are right.R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Game pieX 2294Z 14/7/98a Geographe Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Killerby Shiraz Killerby $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Killerby [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is initially fragrant with cherry and earth fruit, but then a touch of astringency appears, and the palate follows precisely the same track. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is initially fragrant with cherry and earth fruit, but then a touch of astringency appears, and the palate follows precisely the same track. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Red Hill EstateP An almost startlingly different style from that normally encountered from the Mornington Peninsula, normally bracingly crisp, clean and direct. Years such as 1996, however, impose their own imperative (in the form of botrytis).R%Probably short term, but may age wellS 1995U SeafoodX 2300Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Red Hill Estate Chardonnay Red Hill Estate $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Red Hill Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow; the bouquet shows all the signs of quite considerable botrytis influence, an impression confirmed by the generous, lime jam, peach and melon palate. The barest hint of smoky oak makes its appearance on the finish. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow; the bouquet shows all the signs of quite considerable botrytis influence, an impression confirmed by the generous, lime jam, peach and melon palate. The barest hint of smoky oak makes its appearance on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Reynolds YarramanP The two most distinguished wines in the Reynolds portfolio now come not from the Upper Hunter but from Orange, whence Jon Reynolds has sourced increasing amounts of fruit over the recent years. This is in fact the first 100% Orange district wine made by Jon Reynolds; barrel-fermented in French oak, with the full range of malolactic fermentation and lees contact. It comes from the Bloodwood and Bantry Grove vineyards. Short term 1-3 yearsS 1995U ed vealX 2302Z 14/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Orange Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _#Reynolds Yarraman Orange Chardonnay Reynolds Yarraman $16-20 Orange 14/7/98 Reynolds Yarraman [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; restrained peach and melon, with mineral hints and subtle oak aromas are followed by a lively wine with a pleasant array of melon, citrus and peach flavours. Once again, the oak is subtle. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; restrained peach and melon, with mineral hints and subtle oak aromas are followed by a lively wine with a pleasant array of melon, citrus and peach flavours. Once again, the oak is subtle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 ShantellP The Shantell vineyard has been producing high-quality chardonnay grapes for well over a decade producing elegant fruit-driven wines which age with grace.R 5 years or moreS 1995U Yarra Valley smoked troutX 2303Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Shantell Chardonnay Shantell $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Shantell [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is very light, but has typical Yarra melon fruit, and barely perceptible oak. The palate has similarly clearly defined citrus, melon and lemon fruit with good length and acidity. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is very light, but has typical Yarra melon fruit, and barely perceptible oak. The palate has similarly clearly defined citrus, melon and lemon fruit with good length and acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 SorrenbergP One of the exceptionally rare varietal Gamays to be produced in Australia. Len Evans has a planting in the unlikely environs of the Hunter Valley, and some was unsuccessfully trialled in Padthaway. There are a few other small plantings scattered here and there, but none is produced with the regularity of Sorrenberg. The Moreys have half a hectare planted, so production is inevitably limited. R Drink nowS 1994U Italian, light red meatX 2304Z 14/7/98a Ovens Valley Gamay Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Sorrenberg Gamay Sorrenberg $16-20 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Sorrenberg B[3wine glasses] 1996 Bright red-purple of medium depth; there are distinctive and distinctly earthy overtones to the sweet fruit on the bouquet, with firm earthy characters wrapped around a core of sweet fruit on the palate. I just have the feeling Gamay should be about the sweetness, not the firmness. RATING: 76 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright red-purple of medium depth; there are distinctive and distinctly earthy overtones to the sweet fruit on the bouquet, with firm earthy characters wrapped around a core of sweet fruit on the palate. I just have the feeling Gamay should be about the sweetness, not the firmness. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">76 Lalla GullyP The immaculately tended Lalla Gully vineyard produced its first Sauvignon Blanc in 1995, making a singularly auspicious debut in a vintage more noted for the generosity of its production than intensity of flavour. R Drink nowS Tasmanian lobsterX 2306Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Lalla Gully Sauvignon Blanc Lalla Gully Vineyard $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Lalla Gully Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Pale green-yellow; an amazingly pungent and strongly varietal bouquet which explains why some people describe Sauvignon Blanc as smelling like cat's pee; a politer description is grassy/herbal. The palate shows similarly intense grassy/herbaceous flavours which some will love, and some will hate, but there is no questioning its authenticity. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Pale green-yellow; an amazingly pungent and strongly varietal bouquet which explains why some people describe Sauvignon Blanc as smelling like cat's pee; a politer description is grassy/herbal. The palate shows similarly intense grassy/herbaceous flavours which some will love, and some will hate, but there is no questioning its authenticity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Bream CreekP Often the most successful of the Bream Creek wines, challenged only by the Riesling. Produced a good wine in 1995, and a workmanlike successor in 1996.R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Stir-fried prawnsX 2307Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Bream Creek Chardonnay Bream Creek Vineyard $16-20 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 Bream Creek Vineyard [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows pronounced nutty malolactic fermentation characters, together with some aromas of hay and straw. Similar soft cashew/straw malolactic flavours dominate the disinctively styled palate. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows pronounced nutty malolactic fermentation characters, together with some aromas of hay and straw. Similar soft cashew/straw malolactic flavours dominate the disinctively styled palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Notley GorgeP For the second time in three years, Notley Gorge won the trophy at the 1996 Tasmanian Regional Wine Show for Best Wooded White Wine with its Chardonnay. This picturesque vineyard, nestling in its own little valley, clearly produces Chardonnay of consistently above-average quality, although the winemaking skills of Andrew Hood should not be underestimated. The 1996 was not entered in the Tasmanian Wine Show, and has not been tasted. R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Seared scallopsX 2308Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Notley Gorge Chardonnay Notley Gorge $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Notley Gorge [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the wine is well made, and does have some complexity, but green, rather herbaceous fruit characters run through both the bouquet and palate, a direct consequence of the vintage. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the wine is well made, and does have some complexity, but green, rather herbaceous fruit characters run through both the bouquet and palate, a direct consequence of the vintage. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 WellingtonP Andrew Hood is nothing if not economical in his back label description of this wine as a dry, lightly wooded wine made from fruit grown mainly in northern Tasmania . The 95 has matured superbly, winning a gold medal at the 1997 Tasmanian Wine Show, the very personification of elegance. The 97 followed suit at the 1998 Tasmanian Wines Show. The 92, tasted socially (in February 1998) is as fresh as a daisy, with years in front of it yet. R 2-5 yearsS 1996U GravlaxX 2309Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Wellington Chardonnay Wellington $16-20 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 Wellington [5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a wine which has true elegance from start to finish, and which is driven largely, though not entirely, by its mix of citrus, melon and faintly herbal fruit. Immaculately balanced, and literally caresses the mouth. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a wine which has true elegance from start to finish, and which is driven largely, though not entirely, by its mix of citrus, melon and faintly herbal fruit. Immaculately balanced, and literally caresses the mouth.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Wynns Coonawarra EstateP <Arguably the best value Riesling in the country a label revamp has slightly lifted the cachet of the wine, however much I personally disapprove of the new label. Extensive vertical tastings of the wines show that the better vintages can live for 20 years or more, becoming great classics in the course of so doing. Up to 20 yearsS 1995U Tiger prawnsX 2318Z 14/7/98a Coonawarra Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _ Wynns Coonawarra Estate Riesling Wynns Coonawarra Estate $11-15 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Wynns Coonawarra Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fragrant, with quite pungent herb and lime aromas, the palate likewise with plenty happening; lime and herb flavours, crisp acid and good length. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fragrant, with quite pungent herb and lime aromas, the palate likewise with plenty happening; lime and herb flavours, crisp acid and good length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 HenschkeP 34.60 VIt seems quite certain that in the years ahead the Adelaide Hills will establish itself as a leading producer of premium Pinot Noir, and that Henschke s Lenswood Vineyard will be in the vanguard. Quite apart from anything else, the Henschkes have established a number of clones of pinot noir, including the new Burgundian clones 114 and 115. R 2-4 yearsS 1996U Confit of duckX 2320Z 14/7/98a Eden Valley Lenswood Giles Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _"Henschke Lenswood Giles Pinot Noir Henschke $26-50 Adelaide Hills t late note 14/7/98 Henschke [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; very ripe, fragrant cherry/strawberry fruit on the bouquet leads into a very ripe palate with some minty notes, too. A warm style, even faintly sweaty, but seems to be typical of the Lenswood region. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; very ripe, fragrant cherry/strawberry fruit on the bouquet leads into a very ripe palate with some minty notes, too. A warm style, even faintly sweaty, but seems to be typical of the Lenswood region. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Chain Of PondsP 14.915Q Competently made in a direct, no-frills style. The moderately warm vineyards produce a wine slightly more towards Clare Valley in style than the more exotically fruity wines of (say) the Lenswood subdistrict of the Adelaide Hills.R 3-5+ yearsS 1996U Globe artichokeX 2321Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Chain Of Ponds Riesling Chain of Ponds $11-15 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Chain of Ponds [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a quite powerful bouquet with some lifted characters which also appear again on the palate, quite full and firm; overall in typical Chain of Ponds style. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a quite powerful bouquet with some lifted characters which also appear again on the palate, quite full and firm; overall in typical Chain of Ponds style. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Chain Of PondsP Has the winemaker s fingerprints all over it, with the full gamut of winemaking techniques being used. Barrel ferment, lees contact and malolactic fermentation are all evident, but there is the fruit intensity there to support these inputs. The 94 received the trophy for Best Wine of Show at the 1996 Adelaide Hills Wine Show; the 95 and 96 are good, but not in same outstanding category. Short termS 1995U Veal saltimboccaX 2323Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Chain Of Ponds Chardonnay Chain of Ponds $21-25 Adelaide Hills t late note 14/7/98 Chain of Ponds [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; an interesting bouquet, with bready/mealy notes, not particularly rich. The palate, again, is in a finer style, quite long, with secondary bready and minerally characters. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; an interesting bouquet, with bready/mealy notes, not particularly rich. The palate, again, is in a finer style, quite long, with secondary bready and minerally characters.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 WN ParacombeP In 1995, and again in 1996, Paracombe s best wine was its Sauvignon Blanc, made in a simple unoaked-style but totally delicious. The 1997 triumphantly reiterated the point by winning the Sauvignon Blanc Trophy at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show.R Drink nowS 1996U Trout mousseX 2326Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Paracombe Sauvignon Blanc Paracombe Wines $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Paracombe Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with a delicate mix of passionfruit and gooseberry aromas. The palate, likewise, veers from crisper, herbal notes to riper tropical fruit flavours. Crisp, clean and bright. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with a delicate mix of passionfruit and gooseberry aromas. The palate, likewise, veers from crisper, herbal notes to riper tropical fruit flavours. Crisp, clean and bright.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Woody NookP Once again, the perhaps unfashionable and little known (in the eastern States at least) Woody Nook has come up with a quite lovely white wine, a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc.R Short termS 1995U Rich seafood pastaX 2327Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Classic Dry White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Woody Nook Classic Dry White Woody Nook $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Woody Nook 1[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is light and crisp, with a mix of herbaceous and gooseberry aromas, reminiscent of New Zealand. The palate is fresh, lively and crisp, with most attractive Semillon Sauvignon Blanc flavours. Well balanced and approachable right now. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is light and crisp, with a mix of herbaceous and gooseberry aromas, reminiscent of New Zealand. The palate is fresh, lively and crisp, with most attractive Semillon Sauvignon Blanc flavours. Well balanced and approachable right now.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Darling ParkP bQxAnother wine to show the combination of both winemaking skills and a top vintage. Made and released for early enjoyment.R Now-4 yearsS 1993U Asian meat dishesX 2339Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Darling Park Cabernet Merlot Darling Park $11-15 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Darling Park [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Bright, light red-purple; the bouquet is spotlessly clean, with fresh, sweet red berry fruit, and no hint of the dreaded greens. The palate is equally attractive, with light, fresh juicy berry flavours, and a zippy finish. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright, light red-purple; the bouquet is spotlessly clean, with fresh, sweet red berry fruit, and no hint of the dreaded greens. The palate is equally attractive, with light, fresh juicy berry flavours, and a zippy finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Knight Granite HillsP 16.45 &The 2 hectares of estate plantings on the bare, windswept hills are low-yielding and inevitably late-ripening, producing a wine with considerable intensity of flavour in most vintages. The 92 was re-released as a mature wine at the end of 1997, marking the start of a mature-release programme. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Sugar-cured tunaX 2349Z 14/7/98a Macedon Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Knight Granite Hills Riesling Knight Granite Hills $16-20 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 Knight Granite Hills [4.5wine glasses] 1992 Glowing yellow-green; a remarkably rich bouquet with powerful clean lime juice fruit aromas, strongly Germanic in character. The palate is equally good, with strong lime juice fruit flavours balanced by firm acidity; excellent length and balance. RATING: 92 [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; light, citrus, lime and pastille aromas on the bouquet intensify on the palate, with abundant citrus, lime and peach fruit. There is something about tB he wine which makes me wonder whether it will cellar as well as most of the Knight Rieslings do; somehow, I doubt it. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXXx 1992 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; a remarkably rich bouquet with powerful clean lime juice fruit aromas, strongly Germanic in character. The palate is equally good, with strong lime juice fruit flavours balanced by firm acidity; excellent length and balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; light, citrus, lime and pastille aromas on the bouquet intensify on the palate, with abundaB nt citrus, lime and peach fruit. There is something about the wine which makes me wonder whether it will cellar as well as most of the Knight Rieslings do; somehow, I doubt it.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 St LeonardsP 15QmProduced in a consistent style which will appeal to those who like to see plenty of oak in their Chardonnays.R Short termS 1994U Smoked turkeyX 2354Z 14/7/98a Rutherglen Carlyle Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia St Leonards Carlyle Chardonnay St Leonards $11-15 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 St Leonards [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; strong toasty oak surrounds peachy fruit on the bouquet, and embraces it in a vice-like grip on the palate. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; strong toasty oak surrounds peachy fruit on the bouquet, and embraces it in a vice-like grip on the palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 St LeonardsP 15QQFollows in the track of its sister wine, with super-abundant use of American oak.R 3-5 yearsS 1993U Milawa washed-rind cheeseX 2355Z 14/7/98a Rutherglen Carlyle Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _&St Leonards Carlyle Cabernet Sauvignon St Leonards $11-15 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 St Leonards [3wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; the bouquet is chock-full of the raw American oak evident in the 96 Shiraz; the same thing happens on the palate. A pity, for there is some good fruit hiding in the oak forest. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; the bouquet is chock-full of the raw American oak evident in the 96 Shiraz; the same thing happens on the palate. A pity, for there is some good fruit hiding in the oak forest.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Wantirna EstateP "Produced from 1.3 hectares of estate plantings. The grapes are picked at maximum ripeness, whole-bunch pressed, and barrel-fermented in a mix of 50% new and 50% second-use barriques from central France, and left on lees until the following March, when the wine is racked, fined and bottled. Medium term - 5+ yearsS Pan-fried trout in black butterX 2356Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Isabella Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _#Wantirna Estate Isabella Chardonnay Wantirna Estate $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Wantirna Estate [0wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft, with discreet melon and fig fruit, and hints of cashew. The palate shows some green apple and mineral notes alongside the melon and fig of the bouquet; neither rich nor luscious. RATING: NR @BM bold:1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft, with discreet melon and fig fruit, and hints of cashew. The palate shows some green apple and mineral notes alongside the melon and fig of the bouquet; neither rich nor luscious.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">NR WinsteadP ?Like the Riesling, produced from a little over half a hectare of estate plantings. Going from strength to strength as the vines mature, with a now consistently produced depth and richness of flavour not far removed from that of Freycinet. Very much a Pinot to watch (and buy); it is just a pity there is not more of it. Up to 4 yearsS 1995U Saddle of hareX 2359Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Winstead Pinot Noir Winstead $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Winstead :[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; a powerful bouquet with spice and ripe plum and black cherry fruit, supported by abundant oak. The palate is flavoursome and rich, reminiscent in some ways of the Lenswood Vineyards Pinot Noirs. Tasted at the very start of its life, with great potential. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a powerful bouquet with spice and ripe plum and black cherry fruit, supported by abundant oak. The palate is flavoursome and rich, reminiscent in some ways of the Lenswood Vineyards Pinot Noirs. Tasted at the very start of its life, with great potential.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 BarrattP Made from hand-harvested grapes selected from particular blocks within the Uley Vineyard, and matured in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak barriques for approximately ten months. Forty per cent of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation.R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Trout mousseX 2361Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Barratt Chardonnay Barratt $21-25 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Barratt [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a very complex, rich, tangy and layered bouquet, quite Burgundian in style, leads into a mouthfilling and rich wine on the palate with very good mid to back palate grapefruit and melon flavours, assisted by subtle oak. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a very complex, rich, tangy and layered bouquet, quite Burgundian in style, leads into a mouthfilling and rich wine on the palate with very good mid to back palate grapefruit and melon flavours, assisted by subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 BarrattP Fermented in tiny, open half-tonne fermenters with footstamping and plunging of whole bunches, and matured in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak barriques for 11 months prior to bottling. The wine is neither fined nor filtered; the 1995 won a gold medal at the 1996 Adelaide Hills Wine Show, topping its class. The 96 topped the Pinot Noir Class at the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Show. R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Jugged hareX 2362Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Piccadilly Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _$Barratt Piccadilly Valley Pinot Noir Barratt $26-50 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Barratt [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; voluminous, rich and sweet spice and plum fruit on the bouquet is followed by a wonderful palate with dancing spicy/silky cherry and plum fruit. A class act from start to finish. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; voluminous, rich and sweet spice and plum fruit on the bouquet is followed by a wonderful palate with dancing spicy/silky cherry and plum fruit. A class act from start to finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Cambewarra EstateP Chambourcin is a French-bred hybrid which is highly resistant to mildew and rot, and particularly suited to warmer, wetter growing regions. Cassegrain on the north coast of New South Wales has the largest plantings, but they are scattered through various parts of the State. At Cambewarra, as elsewhere, it produces a strongly coloured wine which is typically best consumed when young. Cambewarra makes two versions: one a lighter style, without oak, the other a fuller, oak-matured wine. Short termS 1995U Italian cuisineX 2365Z 14/7/98a Shoalhaven Chambourcin Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Cambewarra Estate Chambourcin Cambewarra Estate $11-15 r"Other New South Wales Wine Regions 14/7/98 Cambewarra Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Vivid purple, almost unreal, though understandable in the context of the variety; a clean and potent bouquet stuffed with juicy blackberry and chocolate fruit aromas. The same flavours repeat on an extraordinary palate; whether this is almost beyond wine and into a caricature is a legitimate question, but it is an extraordinary achievement. Came top in its class at the 97 Rutherglen Wine Show. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Vivid purple, almost unreal, though understandable in the context of the variety; a clean and potent bouquet stuffed with juicy blackberry and chocolate fruit aromas. The same flavours repeat on an extraordinary palate; whether this is almost beyond wine and into a caricature is a legitimate question, but it is an extraordinary achievement. Came top in its class at the 97 Rutherglen Wine Show.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Deakin EstateP Brown Brothers was one of the pioneers in the planting of colombard in Australia, but it is now widely grown through all of the warmer regions, and in particular the Riverland areas. Here, as in California (where enormous acreages are planted) its particular virtue is its ability to retain high levels of natural acidity, and hence to produce a bright, fresh wine which is often blended with softer, broader varieties, but which does well in its own right. R Drink nowS 1996U Vegetable terrineX 2367Z 14/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill N Colombard White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Deakin Estate Colombard Deakin Estate e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 Deakin Estate [3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a lifted, floral bouquet which is quite attractive, helped by passionfruit aromas. The wine has similar palate flavours; truly, a pleasant early drinking style. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a lifted, floral bouquet which is quite attractive, helped by passionfruit aromas. The wine has similar palate flavours; truly, a pleasant early drinking style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Driftwood EstateP 15.40 Produced from 2.9 hectares of estate plantings, and shows the richness and concentration one expects from Margaret River white wines. The grapes are typically picked at exceptionally high baum levels for semillon, ranging between 13 degrees and almost 14 degrees. Short termS 1996U Baked hamX 2368Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Driftwood Estate Semillon Driftwood Estate $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 Driftwood Estate V[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a very rich and complex bouquet with strong tropical overtones to the herb fruit, and an echo of what may be a touch of barrel ferment. The palate is equally complex, with many characteristics of very ripe sauvignon blanc, but does not convincingly carry its 13.7 degrees alcohol. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a very rich and complex bouquet with strong tropical overtones to the herb fruit, and an echo of what may be a touch of barrel ferment. The palate is equally complex, with many characteristics of very ripe sauvignon blanc, but does not convincingly carry its 13.7 degrees alcohol.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Driftwood EstateP 17.10 Produced from 3.2 hectares of estate plantings; right from the outset, has been made in what might be termed a 'Battleship Galactica' style, even by the at-times exceedingly opulent and concentrated standards of the Margaret River. R Each way, but preferably earlierS 1996U Turkey, vealX 2369Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Driftwood Estate Chardonnay Driftwood Estate $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Driftwood Estate 1[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; fruit and oak vie for supremacy on both bouquet and palate, with high-quality toasty/nutmeg oak to the fore on the bouquet. A massive, mouth-coating wine on the palate with peachy/buttery fruit and masses of barrel-ferment oak character. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; fruit and oak vie for supremacy on both bouquet and palate, with high-quality toasty/nutmeg oak to the fore on the bouquet. A massive, mouth-coating wine on the palate with peachy/buttery fruit and masses of barrel-ferment oak character.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Preston PeakP A blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon sourced from the Wyberba Vineyard. A small portion of the Sauvignon Blanc was matured briefly in American oak, but the impact is subliminal as it should be. A bronze medal winner at the 1995 Cowra Wine Show. R Drink nowS 1995U Tandoori chickenX 2373Z 14/7/98a Granite Belt Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _%Preston Peak Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Preston Peak $11-15 Granite Belt 14/7/98 Preston Peak 5[3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, with a mix of herbal and more earthy aromas. The palate is likewise light, and very similar to the herbaceous fruit of the Preston Peak Semillon of the same year, though does have slightly more fruit weight and length. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, with a mix of herbal and more earthy aromas. The palate is likewise light, and very similar to the herbaceous fruit of the Preston Peak Semillon of the same year, though does have slightly more fruit weight and length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 Preston PeakP A variable blend of Chardonnay and Semillon, in some years with the Semillon predominant, and in other years with the Chardonnay predominant, and with various fruit sources for the Chardonnay in particular, the latter coming from the Riverina in 1996. R Drink nowS 1995U Singapore noodlesX 2374Z 14/7/98a Granite Belt Semillon Chardonnay White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _ Preston Peak Semillon Chardonnay Preston Peak $11-15 Granite Belt 14/7/98 Preston Peak [2.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a light, neutral bouquet and only slightly more flavour and character on the palate, with the faintest vestige of chardonnay varietal fruit and a flick of fairly ordinary oak. RATING: 70 @BM bold:XXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a light, neutral bouquet and only slightly more flavour and character on the palate, with the faintest vestige of chardonnay varietal fruit and a flick of fairly ordinary oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">70 Stephen JohnP QuSaid to have been matured in imported oak casks for 18 months, although the provenance of the oak is not disclosed.R 5-7 yearsS 1995U Marinated beefX 2376Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley M Watervale Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Stephen John Watervale Shiraz Stephen John Wines $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Stephen John Wines [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; solid, dark berry fruit on the bouquet is replicated by concentrated black cherry, faintly minty fruit flavours on the palate. Pleasant oak and moderate tannins provide balance and structure. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; solid, dark berry fruit on the bouquet is replicated by concentrated black cherry, faintly minty fruit flavours on the palate. Pleasant oak and moderate tannins provide balance and structure.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 N BlackJackP "Produced from the hillside vineyards of BlackJack, and aged in American and French oak barriques for 18 months prior to bottling. The name BlackJack derives from an American sailor who jumped ship during the gold-rush days of the 1850s and 1860s, and who earned for himself this nickname. 5+ yearsS 1995U Barbecued T-boneX 2380Z 14/7/98a Bendigo Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia BlackJack Shiraz BlackJack Vineyards $16-20 Bendigo 14/7/98 BlackJack Vineyards [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a strong bouquet, with more weight and dark cherry/berry fruit than the 95. The palate confirms the return to form, with cherry, mint, plum and earth flavours all intermingling. Subtle oak. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a strong bouquet, with more weight and dark cherry/berry fruit than the 95. The palate confirms the return to form, with cherry, mint, plum and earth flavours all intermingling. Subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Deakin EstateP Produced from over 120 hectares of estate plantings, and in two guises: unoaked and barrel-fermented. The unoaked version is released early in the second half of the year of vintage, the barrel-fermented in April of the year following vintage. Both offer good value. R Drink nowS 1996U Fish and chipsX 2381Z 14/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Deakin Estate Chardonnay Deakin Estate e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 Deakin Estate [3wine glasses] 1997 Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet shows overt chippy oak; less would have been better. However, there is more fruit (relative to the oak) on the palate, with warm peachy flavours. An honest example of the style in its price category. Drink quickly. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet shows overt chippy oak; less would have been better. However, there is more fruit (relative to the oak) on the palate, with warm peachy flavours. An honest example of the style in its price category. Drink quickly.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Fishburn & O KeefeP 20QXA solidly structured wine drawn from vineyards in both the north and south of the State.R 2-4 years 1995U Tasmanian venisonX 2385Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Fishburn & O Keefe Pinot Noir Fishburn & O'Keefe $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Fishburn & O'Keefe [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid, with deep, plummy fruit, with more of the same on the very substantial palate. Excellent fruit flavour and concentration, but not especially complex; hopefully this will build with time in bottle. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid, with deep, plummy fruit, with more of the same on the very substantial palate. Excellent fruit flavour and concentration, but not especially complex; hopefully this will build with time in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 N DalrympleP 1994 produced a benchmark wine to show just what Tasmania can achieve with Sauvignon Blanc. By rights the variety ought to be ideally suited to the State, yet relatively little is grown, and much of that produces rather pale and insipid wines. This was magnificently and opulently at the other extreme, winning gold medals at both the 1995 and 1996 Tasmanian Wine Shows. The 96 was in similar style. R Drink nowS 1996U Tartare of Atlantic salmonX 2387Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Dalrymple Sauvignon Blanc c Dalrymple $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 % Dalrymple [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a crisp, clean herbaceous bouquet with traces of capsicum, and a clean, fresh, crisp lemony/herbaceous palate. Well made, but the vintage prevented the development of the spectacular fruit flavour of the 96 vintage. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a crisp, clean herbaceous bouquet with traces of capsicum, and a clean, fresh, crisp lemony/herbaceous palate. Well made, but the vintage prevented the development of the spectacular fruit flavour of the 96 vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Huntington EstateP In very much the same style and quality class as the Cabernet Sauvignon, made from estate-grown grapes and producing wines of great longevity. As the wines age, cherry/berry fruits gradually soften and take on that typically, gently earthy Shiraz character, and the tannins soften at the same rate as the fruit rounds off and develops. Thus the balance of the wine is never threatened, and patience is rewarded. 10-15 yearsS0 1993U Kangaroo filletX 14/7/98a Mudgee Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Huntington Estate Shiraz Huntington Estate $11-15 Mudgee t late note 14/7/98 Huntington Estate [5wine glasses] 1995 Bin FB29. Strong, bright full purple-red; the bouquet is rich and powerful, with strong dark berry and earth fruit, the palate youthful and concentrated, with tightly constructed dark fruit flavours and good acidity. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Bin FB29. Strong, bright full purple-red; the bouquet is rich and powerful, with strong dark berry and earth fruit, the palate youthful and concentrated, with tightly constructed dark fruit flavours and good acidity. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Chard FarmP 29.00 Strikingly packaged in one of the new generation rocket missile-shaped dark green Italian glass bottles, and taking its name from the prominent outcrops of rock across the Kawarau Gorge; Chard Farm clings precariously on the side of the Gorge. There is a great deal more to the wine than innovative (and no doubt expensive) packaging. Since 1994, has come both from estate-grown and Bannockburn (NZ) vineyard fruit; barrel-fermented in predominantly new French oak. R 2-5 yearsS 1994U CalamariX 14/7/98` Otagob 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Judge And Jury Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _$Chard Farm Judge And Jury Chardonnay Chard Farm $26-50 Otago 14/7/98 Chard Farm .[4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a clean and fresh bouquet with tangy citrussy/white peach fruit is followed by a crisp tangy/lemony palate surrounded by ever so slightly fuzzy oak. The acid is quite brisk, and the wine as yet fractionally hard, but should age well. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a clean and fresh bouquet with tangy citrussy/white peach fruit is followed by a crisp tangy/lemony palate surrounded by ever so slightly fuzzy oak. The acid is quite brisk, and the wine as yet fractionally hard, but should age well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Chard FarmP Named in honour of the visionary viticulturist Romeo Bragato who came to New Zealand from Victoria at the end of the nineteenth century, and momentarily took the New Zealand industry by the scruff of the neck, propelling it in the direction in which it has finally headed 90 years later. He departed, and his vision was lost, but not entirely forgotten. This is a fitting tribute to his memory, even more fittingly packaged in an exotic Italian glass bottle. R 3-5 yearsS 1993, 1995U Spiced quailX 14/7/98` Otagob 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Bragato Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _%Chard Farm Bragato Reserve Pinot Noir Chard Farm $26-50 Otago 14/7/98 Chard Farm [4wine glasses] 1996 Faint blackish tinges to the purple-red colour raise the ghost of a query. The bouquet is fragrant, with a mix of spicy tobacco leaf and black cherry aromas of light to medium intensity, the palate a curious mix of powerful plum, cherry and spice fruit yet trails away slightly into a fractionally tart, short finish. May fill out and evolve with another year or so in bottle. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Faint blackish tinges to the purple-red colour raise the ghost of a query. The bouquet is fragrant, with a mix of spicy tobacco leaf and black cherry aromas of light to medium intensity, the palate a curious mix of powerful plum, cherry and spice fruit yet trails away slightly into a fractionally tart, short finish. May fill out and evolve with another year or so in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Cloudy BayP 23.95 The most famous New World Sauvignon Blanc with an international reputation second to none. The creative team of David Hohnen and Kevin Judd are disarmingly modest about the wine, however correctly they may point to the perfect marriage between the variety and the climate and soil of Marlborough. There is also the attention to detail, the discipline and the creative intelligence required to make a wine of such distinction with such consistency. Now-5 yearsS 1996U Virtually any seafood dishX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Cloudy Bay $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 Cloudy Bay 5[5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows a range of complex gooseberry, passionfruit and more smoky/mineral aromas, the palate lively and fresh with crisp gooseberry, apple and passionfruit. Has the usual impeccable balance and length. Simply outstanding as ever. RATING: 97 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows a range of complex gooseberry, passionfruit and more smoky/mineral aromas, the palate lively and fresh with crisp gooseberry, apple and passionfruit. Has the usual impeccable balance and length. Simply outstanding as ever.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">97 Cloudy BayP 39.50 ;A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, made with consultancy advice and direction from Californian-born and trained Harold Osborne. The wine is aged for three years on yeast lees, and is given further bottle age prior to release. One of the most positively flavoured and structured sparkling wines from Australasia. 5-10 yearsS 1992U&Medium-weight shellfish or fish dishesX 14/7/98` PN CHa Marlboroughb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Pelorus X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand Cloudy Bay Pelorus Cloudy Bay $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Cloudy Bay -[4wine glasses] 1993 Deep yellow-gold; that utterly idiosyncratic bouquet with its pronounced nutty/bready/yeast autolysis influence leads into an ultra-full flavoured, rich palate with no primary fruit evident, but lots of nutty bready flavours. Marches to the tune of its own drum. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1993 <f"Bembo">Deep yellow-gold; that utterly idiosyncratic bouquet with its pronounced nutty/bready/yeast autolysis influence leads into an ultra-full flavoured, rich palate with no primary fruit evident, but lots of nutty bready flavours. Marches to the tune of its own drum.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 CollardsP Arguably the most distinguished of the Collards wines, proving that the Auckland region in this case at Waimauku can indeed produce high-quality Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Since it was first made in 1986, the wine has won eight gold medals in New Zealand wine shows, but had its ultimate moment of glory at the 1994 Australian National Wine Show in Canberra, where it topped a field of over 100 medal-winning Chardonnays. One hundred per cent barrel-fermented and lees aged, with varyiBRng percentages of malolactic fermentation according to the vintage, but up to 80%. R 2-5 yearsS 1994U Pan-fried breast of chickenX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Rothesay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Collards Rothesay Chardonnay Collards $26-50 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Collards [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; ripe and rich, with obvious barrel-ferment characters over tangy fruit, with more of the same on the stylish palate. Here the fruit veers more to melon and fig, the oak expertly handled and integrated. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; ripe and rich, with obvious barrel-ferment characters over tangy fruit, with more of the same on the stylish palate. Here the fruit veers more to melon and fig, the oak expertly handled and integrated.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Coopers CreekP Winemaker Kim Crawford believes in ripe grapes, something fairly readily achieved in the Hawke s Bay climate. Barrel fermentation in American oak, lees contact and 100% malolactic fermentation all add to the impact of a powerful wine style.R Drink nowS 95, 96, 1995U Sweet and sour porkX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _$Coopers Creek Hawke s Bay Chardonnay Coopers Creek $16-20 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Coopers Creek [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a tangy bouquet with a mix of mineral and citrus aromas, and a touch of cashew which comes through on the palate. A stylish and restrained wine which will hurry slowly. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a tangy bouquet with a mix of mineral and citrus aromas, and a touch of cashew which comes through on the palate. A stylish and restrained wine which will hurry slowly.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 CorbansP Corbans was the first producer to release a noteworthy Pinot Noir from Marlborough, starring in various Sydney International Wine Competitions. The 94 is a tribute to the skills of its maker, Alan McCorkindale.R Drink nowS 1994U Roast pigeonX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Cottage Block Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _ Corbans Cottage Block Pinot Noir Corbans (Marlborough) $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Corbans (Marlborough) D[5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red; a very fine, elegant and stylish wine on both bouquet and palate, with sappy cherry and plum aromas, and fine spicy plum and cherry flavours on a long, silky palate. Excellent oak balance and integration; they don't come much better in the light to medium weight and style. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red; a very fine, elegant and stylish wine on both bouquet and palate, with sappy cherry and plum aromas, and fine spicy plum and cherry flavours on a long, silky palate. Excellent oak balance and integration; they don't come much better in the light to medium weight and style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 N Delegat XMade from hand-harvested, estate-grown grapes; 50% is barrel-fermented in a mixture of new and one-year-old French oak barriques, and a sensibly restrained 25% undergoes malolactic fermentation. Consistently one of the highest-rated New Zealand Chardonnays, although I am not sure I do not prefer the more direct appeal of the Oyster Bay-style. R 2-4 yearsS 1992, 1994U Smoked salmonX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Proprietors Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _(Delegat s Proprietors Reserve Chardonnay Delegat s Wine Estate $21-25 ??Marlborough 14/7/98 Delegat s Wine Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; an extremely rich, full buttery/toasty bouquet leads onto a mouthfilling, solid peachy/buttery palate with an almost unctuously soft finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; an extremely rich, full buttery/toasty bouquet leads onto a mouthfilling, solid peachy/buttery palate with an almost unctuously soft finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 N Delegat A 100% Merlot, 100% Hawke s Bay wine. Sophisticated winemaking involves warm fermentation (up to 30 C) and 50% of the wine finishing its primary fermentation in barriques. That portion undergoes malolactic fermentation in barrel, the remainder in tank. The components are then blended and spend 12 months in new French oak prior to being eggwhite-fined and bottled. It is an approach which pays considerable dividends. R 4-6 yearsS! 1993, 1994U Seared venisonX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Proprietors Reserve Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand _$Delegat s Proprietors Reserve Merlot Delegat s Wine Estate $21-25 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Delegat s Wine Estate *[4wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; a complex bouquet with a mix of ripe plummy fruit and more cedary/dusty/briary/gamey characters is followed by a full-flavoured palate with lush berry fruit, a hint of chocolate, and powerful, ever so slightly green, tannins on the finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; a complex bouquet with a mix of ripe plummy fruit and more cedary/dusty/briary/gamey characters is followed by a full-flavoured palate with lush berry fruit, a hint of chocolate, and powerful, ever so slightly green, tannins on the finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 N Delegat The partner to Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, both so prominently branded and well known that they have a life almost independent of Delegat's. Seventy five per cent of the wine undergoes barrel fermentation in new oak, and spends six months thereafter on yeast lees. Significantly, none of the wine goes through malolactic fermentation, producing a style which (to my palate, at least) works brilliantly well. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Sugar-cured tunaX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Oyster Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Delegat s Oyster Bay Chardonnay Delegat s Wine Estate $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Delegat s Wine Estate _[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; well-balanced nutty/charry barrel-ferment oak is woven through melon and citrus fruit on the bouquet, a promising start but it is the palate which really takes off. Lively, zesty nectarine, citrus and melon, even a hint of passionfruit, ripple along the palate and into a lingering finish. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; well-balanced nutty/charry barrel-ferment oak is woven through melon and citrus fruit on the bouquet, a promising start but it is the palate which really takes off. Lively, zesty nectarine, citrus and melon, even a hint of passionfruit, ripple along the palate and into a lingering finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 N Delegat The first vintage of Delegat s Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, made from two-year-old vines, had extraordinary success in winning the Marquis de Goulaine Trophy for Best Sauvignon Blanc at the International Wine and Spirit Competition in London in July 1991. Not surprisingly, the Oyster Bay label has spearheaded Delegat s export drive since that time. It is made in a classic, no-frills, bracingly direct Marlborough-style. R Drink nowS 1996U Oysters, musselsX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _$Delegat s Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc Delegat s Wine Estate $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Delegat s Wine Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a potent, pungent bouquet with a mix of herbal, minerally/stony and tangy gooseberry fruit aromas is followed by a palate with a similarly powerful and diverse array of flavours. Long, intense, well-balanced finish. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a potent, pungent bouquet with a mix of herbal, minerally/stony and tangy gooseberry fruit aromas is followed by a palate with a similarly powerful and diverse array of flavours. Long, intense, well-balanced finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Forrest EstateP tAn interesting wine which is a blend of 96% Sauvignon Blanc and 4% Semillon (1996); a portion of the Semillon is barrel-fermented in French oak barriques and part of the wine is taken through malolactic fermentation. John Forrest is forever looking for ways to add weight and complexity to his Sauvignon Blanc, including multiple pickings over varying degrees of ripeness. R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Fresh snapperX 14/7/98` SB SEa Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Forrest Estate Sauvignon Blanc Forrest Estate $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Forrest Estate Q[4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, firm and rather close, with not a lot of fruit expression, but the wine expands on the palate with excellent, tightly knit structure, and that barrel-fermented semillon component evidencing itself. This is a different style of Sauvignon Blanc to the usual. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, firm and rather close, with not a lot of fruit expression, but the wine expands on the palate with excellent, tightly knit structure, and that barrel-fermented semillon component evidencing itself. This is a different style of Sauvignon Blanc to the usual.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Gibbston ValleyP Produced in limited quantities from the relatively small estate plantings of the variety. The short growing season carries with it threats at both the start and finish of the season; the yields are low, and the wine is very much subject to vintage conditions. R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Spiced quailX 14/7/98` Otagob 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir Gibbston Valley $26-50 Otago 14/7/98 Gibbston Valley [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; solid plummy fruit on the bouquet is cut by a pleasant touch of earth and stem. The palate is of medium to full weight, with relatively tight structure, but ample sweet plummy fruit. Well-made wine. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; solid plummy fruit on the bouquet is cut by a pleasant touch of earth and stem. The palate is of medium to full weight, with relatively tight structure, but ample sweet plummy fruit. Well-made wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Giesen EstateP It was the desire to grow riesling and in particular to make a dry Riesling which lured the Giesen family to the very cool Canterbury district in the first place. The grapes are harvested between the end of April and the end of May with a typical German analysis of around 11 baum , 9.5 grams per litre of acid and a pH of 3.1. Botrytis is deliberately excluded. Usually 500-600 cases are made. The 94 was harvested on May 13 at 19 degrees brix. 3 yearsS 1993U OystersX 14/7/98` Canterburyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) M Extra Dry Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _ Giesen Estate Extra Dry Riesling Giesen Estate $11-15 Canterbury 14/7/98 Giesen Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1994 Glowing yellow-green; an intense bouquet with lime and honey fruit aromas is followed by a palate in which firm acidity rules the day. It is indeed extra dry, and is not for those who are overly sensitive to acidity. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; an intense bouquet with lime and honey fruit aromas is followed by a palate in which firm acidity rules the day. It is indeed extra dry, and is not for those who are overly sensitive to acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Jackson EstateP Produced from 15 hectares of estate plantings established in 1988, and producing the first vintage in 1991. The vines are not irrigated, are hand-pruned and utilise the Scott Henry trellis. The quality of the fruit is beyond dispute, and the winemaking skills of international flying winemaker Martin Shaw add the final touch. The most striking feature of this wine is that it is invariably perfectly weighted and proportioned. R 1-3 yearsS 1995U CalamariX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc Jackson Estate $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Jackson Estate <[5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a firm, crisp, fresh and clean bouquet with a mix of herb, mineral and lemon fruit aromas; the palate is distinguished by excellent mouthfeel and length, with perfectly balanced fruit ripeness and flavours. Bang-slap in the best tradition of Jackson Estate. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a firm, crisp, fresh and clean bouquet with a mix of herb, mineral and lemon fruit aromas; the palate is distinguished by excellent mouthfeel and length, with perfectly balanced fruit ripeness and flavours. Bang-slap in the best tradition of Jackson Estate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Martinborough VineyardP For long one of the benchmarks for Pinot Noir in Australasia, although in more recent years (but only in the best vintages) topped by the Reserve Pinot Noir. The Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noirs are made in much the same style as the Chardonnays, with as much focus on structure and complexity as on fruit. Larry McKenna has never been afraid to experiment, and deliberately walks the razor s edge in the quest for ultimate quality. R 3-6 yearsS 1994U Roast quailX 14/7/98` PNa Wairarapab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _!Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir Martinborough Vineyard $26-50 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Martinborough Vineyard [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is exemplary, with cherry and plum fruit complexed and cut by some foresty/stemmy characters. The palate, likewise, has a mix of cherry plum fruit and more foresty/stemmy characters giving grip, texture and length. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is exemplary, with cherry and plum fruit complexed and cut by some foresty/stemmy characters. The palate, likewise, has a mix of cherry plum fruit and more foresty/stemmy characters giving grip, texture and length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Matua ValleyP Shingle Peak is the Marlborough label of Matua Valley, almost a separate brand, so far is it distanced from Matua Valley. Ever reliable, the 97 won a gold medal at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show of Australia. Like the Hawke's Bay Sauvignon Blanc, made without artifice or intervention, and, like the Hawke's Bay wine, 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The two wines provide a perfect contrast between the style of Hawke's Bay Sauvignon and that of Marlborough. R Drink nowS 1995U New Zealand whitebaitX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Shingle Peak Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _)Matua Valley Shingle Peak Sauvignon Blanc Matua Valley $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Matua Valley [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium green-yellow; there is a fragrant mix of gooseberry, passionfruit and more herbal notes on the bouquet; the lively, long and well-balanced palate has a nice minerally grip to the finish. Excellent varietal example. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; there is a fragrant mix of gooseberry, passionfruit and more herbal notes on the bouquet; the lively, long and well-balanced palate has a nice minerally grip to the finish. Excellent varietal example.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 NautilusP /Sauvignon Blanc was the first wine to be released under the striking and beautiful Nautilus label, and remains the most important wine in terms of quantity; invariably clearly defined. Principally made from vineyards situated in the Awatere Valley, the remainder from two vineyards in the Wairau Valley. Now-3 years 1995U CrayfishX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Marlborough Sauvignon White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Nautilus Marlborough Sauvignon Nautilus Wines $16-20 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Nautilus Wines ;[4wine glasses] 1997 Very light green-yellow; an incredibly voluminous and aromatic bouquet with striking passionfruit aromas is followed by a fresh, clean and almost delicate palate. The flavours do track the bouquet, but (happily) are less intense. Well-balanced acidity; the finish is bone-dry. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Very light green-yellow; an incredibly voluminous and aromatic bouquet with striking passionfruit aromas is followed by a fresh, clean and almost delicate palate. The flavours do track the bouquet, but (happily) are less intense. Well-balanced acidity; the finish is bone-dry.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 NeudorfP Tim Finn has mastered the temperamental Nelson climate, producing consistently rich and opulent Chardonnays of quite exceptional complexity. Part of the answer lies in the non-irrigated vineyard, which is planted on Moutere clays, interspersed with layers of gravel. Part lies in the skilled use of barrel fermentation (50% new oak), malolactic fermentation and extended lees contact. R 2-5 yearsS! 1994U Veal, pastaX 14/7/98` Nelsonb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Moutere Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay Neudorf Vineyards $26-50 Nelson 14/7/98 Neudorf Vineyards v[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is at once more complex yet more reserved and tighter than the Neudorf Nelson Chardonnay of the same vintage; a marvellously elegant wine on the palate, complex yet restrained, with faultless integration of oak and equally faultless fruit and oak balance. Cashew/melon flavours linger on a long finish. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is at once more complex yet more reserved and tighter than the Neudorf Nelson Chardonnay of the same vintage; a marvellously elegant wine on the palate, complex yet restrained, with faultless integration of oak and equally faultless fruit and oak balance. Cashew/melon flavours linger on a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 NeudorfP If Chardonnay presents a challenge in the Nelson climate, Pinot Noir presents an even greater one the relatively high summer rainfall poses particular difficulties. The contrast between the 93 and 94 vintages shows how big an impact vintage plays, for these are all quite different wines in style, the 91 muscular, the 92 fragrant and cherry-accented, the 93 spicy, the 94 powerful and plummy. The 96 has echoes of the R 1-3 yearsS 1994U New Zealand venisonX 14/7/98` Nelsonb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Moutere Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Neudorf Moutere Pinot Noir Neudorf Vineyards $26-50 Nelson 14/7/98 Neudorf Vineyards [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is complex and stylish, with a mix of strawberry and more stemmy fruit backed by subtle oak. A multiflavoured wine on the palate, in an earthy forest-floor style, fractionally hard on the finish. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is complex and stylish, with a mix of strawberry and more stemmy fruit backed by subtle oak. A multiflavoured wine on the palate, in an earthy forest-floor style, fractionally hard on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 NobiloP QLMarlborough-grown, and the top of the tree of the unoaked style for Nobilo. R Now-2 yearsS 1994U"Steamed crab with black bean sauceX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Nobilo Icon Sauvignon Blanc Nobilo $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Nobilo 8[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is spotlessly clean, and equally precise varietal fruit in a gooseberry and passionfruit mode. The palate has good length, and once again perfect definition of varietal fruit with tangy gooseberry flavours; well-balanced acidity. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is spotlessly clean, and equally precise varietal fruit in a gooseberry and passionfruit mode. The palate has good length, and once again perfect definition of varietal fruit with tangy gooseberry flavours; well-balanced acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Palliser EstateP zProduced both as a dry Riesling (as in this case) with occasional delectable late-harvest, botrytised versions. The 93 was the top gold medal winner in its class at the 1994 National Wine Show of Australia in Canberra, outpointing all of the leading Australian Rieslings (as well as numerous New Zealand contenders). The 96 won a gold medal at the Air New Zealand Wine Awards. R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Lightly poached asparagusX 14/7/98` RIa Wairarapab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Palliser Estate Riesling Palliser Estate $16-20 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Palliser Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Bright, intense green-yellow; that intensity is picked up on the bouquet with powerful lime pastille varietal fruit aromas. The palate is more delicate than the bouquet suggests, which is in fact no bad thing; similar flavours are there, but are cut and balanced by slightly minerally characters. RATING: 93 [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; an intensely fragrant bouquet with a mix of passionfruit, lime and peach aromas introduces a long palate, Bhwith intense fruit balanced by a slightly minerally grip to the finish. Top-flight wine. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright, intense green-yellow; that intensity is picked up on the bouquet with powerful lime pastille varietal fruit aromas. The palate is more delicate than the bouquet suggests, which is in fact no bad thing; similar flavours are there, but are cut and balanced by slightly minerally characters. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; an intensely fragrant bouquet with a mix of paB ssionfruit, lime and peach aromas introduces a long palate, with intense fruit balanced by a slightly minerally grip to the finish. Top-flight wine. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Palliser EstateP 24.50 -As with the Riesling, produced almost entirely from the large estate plantings. Highly protective winemaking and cool fermentation are obvious in the wine, which has ageing potential. Typically 20% to 25% of the wine is barrel-fermented in new French oak, with the full array of winemaking techniques. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U AbaloneX 14/7/98` CHa Wairarapab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Palliser Estate Chardonnay Palliser Estate $21-25 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Palliser Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite rich, with a mix of toasty, cashew and fig aromas together with more tropical notes; the palate is pleasant, with similar, gentle white peach and fig flavours, but lacks structure and intensity. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite rich, with a mix of toasty, cashew and fig aromas together with more tropical notes; the palate is pleasant, with similar, gentle white peach and fig flavours, but lacks structure and intensity. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Sacred HillP 12.95 \Produced from the 6-hectare Whitecliff Vineyard, established on a site overlooking white limestone cliffs carved by the Tutaekuri River. Made in a very different style from the Sacred Hill Fum Blanc, and sometimes there appears to be a faint hint of oak in the background of the wine although it is said to be straight stainless steel fermented. R Drink nowS 1996U Asian cuisineX 14/7/98` Hawke s Bayb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Whitecliff Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _2Sacred Hill Whitecliff Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc Sacred Hill $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Sacred Hill [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is of medium to full intensity with passionfruit and gooseberry aromas; the palate shows excellent richness and fruit weight, with a well-balanced finish. A quantum leap in advance of the 96. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is of medium to full intensity with passionfruit and gooseberry aromas; the palate shows excellent richness and fruit weight, with a well-balanced finish. A quantum leap in advance of the 96.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Seifried EstateP 14.50 Made without the use of oak from estate-grown grapes. Produced from Seifried s Rabbit Island and Redwood Valley vineyards. Regularly one of New Zealand's better Sauvignon Blancs, and arguably underrated. R Now-2 yearsS 1996U Sugar-cured tunaX 14/7/98` Nelsonb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Seifried Estate Sauvignon Blanc Seifried Estate $11-15 Nelson 14/7/98 Seifried Estate ![4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is firm and crisp, with attractive herb, capsicum and gooseberry aromas leading onto a very lively and tangy palate with a mix of sweet citrus, gooseberry and passionfruit flavours. Exceptional mouthfeel and balance. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is firm and crisp, with attractive herb, capsicum and gooseberry aromas leading onto a very lively and tangy palate with a mix of sweet citrus, gooseberry and passionfruit flavours. Exceptional mouthfeel and balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Seifried EstateP 15.50 Not in the class of Neudorf s Chardonnay, but nonetheless complex and in full-blown, robust New Zealand-style. Not surprisingly, the Nelson summers sometimes introduce a note of botrytis. Fifty per cent of the blend is fermented in new and one-year old French barriques, aged on lees for seven months; the remaining portion is tank fermented and then oak aged for six months. Thirty per cent of the blend undergoes malolactic fermentation. Typically released with considerable bottle age. R Drink nowS 1994U Sweet and sour porkX 14/7/98` Nelsonb 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Seifried Estate Chardonnay Seifried Estate $11-15 Nelson 14/7/98 Seifried Estate 0[3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium yellow-green; an extremely complex bouquet with a range of nutty, cashew, honeycomb and mineral aromas. The palate shows some melon and citrus fruit, but then very firm acid takes over, explaining why the wine is given extended maturation prior to release. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; an extremely complex bouquet with a range of nutty, cashew, honeycomb and mineral aromas. The palate shows some melon and citrus fruit, but then very firm acid takes over, explaining why the wine is given extended maturation prior to release.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Selaks Drylands Estate 12.95 $A new label for Selaks, which made its debut at the 1995 Sydney International Winemakers Competition, being very highly pointed in the Top 100 and duly receiving a gold medal. It utilises grapes grown on Selak's Drylands Vineyard in Marlborough, which adjoins the well-known Matador Vineyard. R 2-3 yearsS 1996U Slow-cooked Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _2Selaks Drylands Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Selaks Drylands Estate Winery $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Selaks Drylands Estate Winery s[4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; there are pungent lifted passionfruit and tropical fruit aromas with a very slightly sour underlay on the bouquet. There are similar lively punchy passionfruit and peach flavours, yet they sit slightly at odds with the underlying structure of the wine. Tasted twice in different circumstances with similar notes. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; there are pungent lifted passionfruit and tropical fruit aromas with a very slightly sour underlay on the bouquet. There are similar lively punchy passionfruit and peach flavours, yet they sit slightly at odds with the underlying structure of the wine. Tasted twice in different circumstances with similar notes.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Te KairangaP 18.50Q~A blend of Gisborne (90%) and Martinborough (10%) Sauvignon Blanc, steel fermented and which offers excellent value for money. R Drink nowS 1995U Scallops in cream sauceX 14/7/98` SBa Wairarapab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Te Kairanga Sauvignon Blanc Te Kairanga Wines $16-20 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Te Kairanga Wines E[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, crisp bouquet of light to medium intensity with a mix of gooseberry, passionfruit and herbal aromas is followed by a palate with more power and attack than the bouquet suggests, with attractive passionfruit flavours and a lingering, lively finish. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, crisp bouquet of light to medium intensity with a mix of gooseberry, passionfruit and herbal aromas is followed by a palate with more power and attack than the bouquet suggests, with attractive passionfruit flavours and a lingering, lively finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Te KairangaP 21.50Q Produced entirely from Martinborough grapes; 33% was barrel-fermented in new French oak, and 30% taken through malolactic fermentation. Aged for five months on lees in barrel before bottling. R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Seared scallopsX 14/7/98` CHa Wairarapab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Te Kairanga Chardonnay Te Kairanga Wines $21-25 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Te Kairanga Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; fine and subtle citrus/melon/mineral aromas are followed by a well-structured palate with stone fruit and mineral flavours, supported by just a hint of oak. Unforced and well balanced. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; fine and subtle citrus/melon/mineral aromas are followed by a well-structured palate with stone fruit and mineral flavours, supported by just a hint of oak. Unforced and well balanced. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Te KairangaP [Like the Chardonnay, made entirely from estate-grown Martinborough grapes, and matured for ten months in French oak. Four different pickings at different levels of ripeness were utilised. A gold medal winner and Top 100 finalist in the 1995 Sydney International Wine Competition with the 93 vintage. The wines since 94 have been less convincing. R Drink nowS 1994U SquabX 14/7/98` PNa Wairarapab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Te Kairanga Pinot Noir Te Kairanga Wines $21-25 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Te Kairanga Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; cherry, earth and forest aromas of medium intensity are followed by a palate which has foresty/stemmy varietal character and fair length, but lacks the silkiness and succulence of the best New Zealand Pinot Noirs. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; cherry, earth and forest aromas of medium intensity are followed by a palate which has foresty/stemmy varietal character and fair length, but lacks the silkiness and succulence of the best New Zealand Pinot Noirs.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Villa MariaP One can legitimately argue about the level of oak in this wine; whether one really likes it or not is a question of personal style preference, but there is no doubting the complexity and power of the wine. A gold medallist and Top 100 finalist in both the 1994 and 1995 Sydney International Wine Competition, and a medal winner at the 1994 Australian National Wine Show in Canberra. A Bob Campbell Classic and five stars from Michael Cooper. Now-2 yearsS 1995U3Moroccan chicken stuffed with raisins and pine nutsX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Reserve Barrique Fermented Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _1Villa Maria Reserve Barrique Fermented Chardonnay Villa Maria $26-50 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Villa Maria [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, ripe voluptuous bouquet with fruit almost veering into the tropical spectrum, and oak evident but under much better control than in prior years. The palate is tremendously rich, sweet and concentrated, with more of those tropical fruit flavours, supported by well-handled oak. Rapid developing style, however. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, ripe voluptuous bouquet with fruit almost veering into the tropical spectrum, and oak evident but under much better control than in prior years. The palate is tremendously rich, sweet and concentrated, with more of those tropical fruit flavours, supported by well-handled oak. Rapid developing style, however.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Villa MariaP A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grown on the Villa Maria Ngakirikiri vineyard blended with Merlot from Bridge Pa. The percentage of Merlot and Cabernet respectively is not stated, but is necessarily Merlot-dominant. The wine spends 18 months in a mix of predominantly French, and a little American, oak, part new, part used. The 95 won a gold medal at the 1997 Liquorland Royal Easter Wine Show and the gold medal and trophy at the 1997 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. R 3-7 yearsS! 1992U Rich, soft ripened cheeseX 14/7/98` MT CSa Auckland Areab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Reserve Merlot Cabernet Cabernet Blends New Zealand _#Villa Maria Reserve Merlot Cabernet Villa Maria $26-50 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Villa Maria l[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; sweet berry fruit aromas are supported by pronounced oak on the bouquet; the palate, too, shows a lot of oak influence which is not yet fully integrated, and which tends to overshadow the unquestionably sweet plum and cassis fruit. A splashy show style which could well mature into something quite special. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; sweet berry fruit aromas are supported by pronounced oak on the bouquet; the palate, too, shows a lot of oak influence which is not yet fully integrated, and which tends to overshadow the unquestionably sweet plum and cassis fruit. A splashy show style which could well mature into something quite special.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Wairau RiverP The Sauvignon Blanc accounts for 8000 cases of the total Wairau River production, and is exported to both the United Kingdom and Australia with great success. The consistency of the wine over the 91 to 97 vintages shows why, if you except the very difficult 95 vintage. R 1-3 yearsS 1995U Deep-fried calamariX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc Wairau River Wines $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Wairau River Wines M[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a clean almost gentle bouquet with an appealing range of flowery, tropical and citrus notes leads into a palate again showing some slightly unusual but enormously appealing floral frangipani, lime, lime blossom flavours. A clean, long-lingering finish adds to the appeal. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a clean almost gentle bouquet with an appealing range of flowery, tropical and citrus notes leads into a palate again showing some slightly unusual but enormously appealing floral frangipani, lime, lime blossom flavours. A clean, long-lingering finish adds to the appeal.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 N CairnbraeP Estate-grown and showing the technical perfection one would expect given a winemaker with the skills of Kim Crawford; yet another wine to demonstrate just how good Riesling can be when grown in the Marlborough region. Now-4 yearsS 1995U Seafood antipastoX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Cairnbrae Riesling Cairnbrae Wines $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Cairnbrae Wines $[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Pale green-yellow; an as yet relatively undeveloped bouquet with stony/minerally/herbal aromas. The palate, too, shows a wine with everything in front of it, crisp, clean and fresh, the citrus, lime and toast flavours of the future waiting to emerge. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Pale green-yellow; an as yet relatively undeveloped bouquet with stony/minerally/herbal aromas. The palate, too, shows a wine with everything in front of it, crisp, clean and fresh, the citrus, lime and toast flavours of the future waiting to emerge. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 N CairnbraeP 15QGAttractive, clean and rich wine which has had significant show success.R Drink nowS 1994U Grilled flounderX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Cairnbrae Sauvignon Blanc Cairnbrae Wines $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Cairnbrae Wines [4wine glasses] 1997 Pale straw-green; the bouquet is full and rich, with abundant ripe gooseberry fruit, the palate living up to the bouquet, with seductive ripe and sweet gooseberry fruit. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Pale straw-green; the bouquet is full and rich, with abundant ripe gooseberry fruit, the palate living up to the bouquet, with seductive ripe and sweet gooseberry fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Foxes IslandP @John Belsham deliberately adopts a very low profile for Foxes Island, emphasising that his main business is the contract-making of wine for others through Rapaura Vintners (formerly Vintech) and emphatically not Foxes Island. The grapes are purchased from the Rose and Jenkins families. The wine spends 12 months in oak. R 1-2 yearsS 1994U Blanquette of vealX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Foxes Island Chardonnay Foxes Island Wines $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Foxes Island Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-green; a super-smooth, clean bouquet with melon fruit and subtle oak heralds an unusually elegant and harmonious palate, with restrained hazelnut, cashew and melon flavours, which linger long in the mouth. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; a super-smooth, clean bouquet with melon fruit and subtle oak heralds an unusually elegant and harmonious palate, with restrained hazelnut, cashew and melon flavours, which linger long in the mouth.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 VavasourP 0In contrast to the Vavasour Reserve, 40% of which is barrel-fermented and which is drawn solely from the Awatere Valley vineyard, the Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc is fermented in steel and usually comes from a mix of Awatere and Wairau Valley grapes. In some vintages a small percentage of Semillon is added. Now-2 yearsS 1996U Pickled octopusX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _!Vavasour Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc Vavasour Wines $16-20 ?? Awatera Valley 14/7/98 Vavasour Wines [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a fragrant bouquet with passionfruit, mineral, herb and gooseberry aromas is followed by a crisp, passionfruit and gooseberry-flavoured palate, finishing with tingling acidity. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a fragrant bouquet with passionfruit, mineral, herb and gooseberry aromas is followed by a crisp, passionfruit and gooseberry-flavoured palate, finishing with tingling acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 VavasourP 28.75 Normally a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc which is matured for 18 months in French oak barriques, and drawn entirely from the Awatere Valley. It has been Vavasour s contention since the outset that the Awatere Valley and, in particular, the rocky alluvial vineyard site is capable of producing red wines every bit as good as the whites. So far that remains to be proven, although not so much through the fault of the reds as for the sheer quality of the top-end whites. R 3-5 yearsS 1996U Moroccan lambX 14/7/98` CS CFa Marlboroughb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Awatere Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _*Vavasour Awatere Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Vavasour Wines $26-50 ?? Awatera Valley 14/7/98 Vavasour Wines P[3.5wine glasses] 1996 The colour is exceptionally deep for Marlborough Cabernet Sauvignon; the bouquet is powerful, with strident leafy cabernet varietal fruit, the palate likewise powerful and concentrated, all in the green-forest spectrum, but does have structure. Plum and cassis are to be found on the back label. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">The colour is exceptionally deep for Marlborough Cabernet Sauvignon; the bouquet is powerful, with strident leafy cabernet varietal fruit, the palate likewise powerful and concentrated, all in the green-forest spectrum, but does have structure. Plum and cassis are to be found on the back label.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Lawsons Dry HillsP 17Q}The Gewurztraminer was initially the only estate-grown wine under the Lawson label. Normally elegant; a little clumsy in 97.R Drink nowS 1996U Delicate Asian seafoodX 14/7/98` 2 White c)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Gewurztraminer White Traminer New Zealand _ Lawsons Dry Hills Gewurztraminer Lawsons Dry Hills $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Lawsons Dry Hills .[3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a solid bouquet, with some spice, but not particularly fragrant, and moving more into the tropical fruit spectrum is followed by a solidly flavoured, slightly heavy palate with those phenolic tannins which so easily surface in Gewurztraminer. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a solid bouquet, with some spice, but not particularly fragrant, and moving more into the tropical fruit spectrum is followed by a solidly flavoured, slightly heavy palate with those phenolic tannins which so easily surface in Gewurztraminer.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Lawsons Dry HillsP 16.50 Another classic Marlborough wine made with skill and discipline. A portion of the wine is fermented in French oak barriques and undergoes malolactic fermentation, and is then back-blended with the major component which is conventionally fermented in stainless steel. Now-2 yearsS 1996U CrayfishX 14/7/98` 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _!Lawsons Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc Lawsons Dry Hills $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Lawsons Dry Hills g[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, with ripe tropical/gooseberry/passionfruit aromas and subliminal support from the barrel-fermented component. The palate is rich and generously proportioned, with fleshy notes no doubt coming from the touch of barrel ferment, and flavours in the tropical/gooseberry spectrum. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, with ripe tropical/gooseberry/passionfruit aromas and subliminal support from the barrel-fermented component. The palate is rich and generously proportioned, with fleshy notes no doubt coming from the touch of barrel ferment, and flavours in the tropical/gooseberry spectrum.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Lawsons Dry HillsP 21.50 Sourced from the Barnsely, Chaytor and Giles Vineyards, and barrel-fermented and matured in a mix of new and used French oak barriques. Seventy per cent is taken through malolactic fermentation. The 93 and 94 vintages were outstanding, establishing the reputation of Lawsons Dry Hills once and for all, even if the follow-on vintages have not been of the same extraordinary quality. R 2-5 yearsS 1995U Ragout of sweetbreads and brainsX 14/7/98` 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Lawsons Dry Hills Chardonnay Lawsons Dry Hills $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 Lawsons Dry Hills 8[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a clean and soft bouquet with ripe canned peach fruit aromas and obvious malolactic fermentation influences. The palate shows a similar range of very ripe (canned/dried) fruit characters. I would like to see a little more sharpness and focus. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a clean and soft bouquet with ripe canned peach fruit aromas and obvious malolactic fermentation influences. The palate shows a similar range of very ripe (canned/dried) fruit characters. I would like to see a little more sharpness and focus.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Nga WakaP A most interesting wine with a strong regional identity, recalling the Sauvignon Blancs of Palliser Estate and Martinborough Vineyards. Sensibly, made without the use or intervention of oak. Leapt to national prominence when it was the only 95 vintage white to win a gold medal at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards, also winning the trophy for Champion Sauvignon Blanc. The 96 was a very full-flavoured wine, rich and tropical, but somewhat controversial, the 97 conventional. R 1-3 yearsS 1995U Seafood pastaX 14/7/98` SBa Wairarapab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Nga Waka Sauvignon Blanc Nga Waka Vineyard $21-25 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Nga Waka Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet shows nicely ripened and balanced fruit with a mix of gooseberry, passionfruit and herbal aromas. The palate opens with gooseberry fruit, then moves on to a lighter, crisper finish. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet shows nicely ripened and balanced fruit with a mix of gooseberry, passionfruit and herbal aromas. The palate opens with gooseberry fruit, then moves on to a lighter, crisper finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Pegasus BayP dPegasus Bay has produced astonishing rich, deeply coloured and full-bodied Pinot Noirs right from the outset. Indeed, the only question mark about the wines has been whether or not they are too much of a good thing. Intriguingly, Professor Donaldson likes to pop the bottle into a microwave for half a minute or so to slightly warm the wine before service. R 3-6 years 1993, 1994U VenisonX 1000Z 14/7/98` Canterburyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir Pegasus Bay $26-50 Canterbury 14/7/98 Pegasus Bay [3wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; the bouquet is similarly dense and strong, with some Bovril/meat extract overtones. The palate is extremely powerful, with lots of maceration and stem characters which, at least at this juncture, sit on top of the varietal fruit. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet is similarly dense and strong, with some Bovril/meat extract overtones. The palate is extremely powerful, with lots of maceration and stem characters which, at least at this juncture, sit on top of the varietal fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Ponder Estate 16QzProduced from 8.5 hectares of estate planting. Quality has wandered around a bit, but the quality of the 97 is exemplary.R Drink nowS 1996U ShellfishX 1001Z 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Ponder Estate Sauvignon Blanc Ponder Estate $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Ponder Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a lively, light, crisp and fresh bouquet with herbal and mineral aromas is logically followed by an utterly correct, clean and crisp palate with lemon, capsicum and redcurrant nuances, finishing with the expected acidity. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a lively, light, crisp and fresh bouquet with herbal and mineral aromas is logically followed by an utterly correct, clean and crisp palate with lemon, capsicum and redcurrant nuances, finishing with the expected acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Greenhough VineyardP Produced from vines grown on the Waimea Plains at Brightwater, with free-draining stony loam soil. Scott Henry trellis and bunch thinning reduce the yield to around 4 tonnes per acre are used. Cold fermented in stainless steel, with 7 grams per litre of residual sugar and 8.5 grams of acid. The 97 achieved Top 100 status in the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition, being very strongly supported by some of the panel. Now-2 yearsS 1994U Asparagus quicheX 1007Z 14/7/98` Nelsonb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _#Greenhough Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Greenhough Vineyard $16-20 Nelson 14/7/98 Greenhough Vineyard )[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet shows intense varietal character, with excellent ripeness and balance between passionfruit, gooseberry and more herbal characters. The palate is tight, clean, immaculately balanced, particularly good mouthfeel on the finish. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet shows intense varietal character, with excellent ripeness and balance between passionfruit, gooseberry and more herbal characters. The palate is tight, clean, immaculately balanced, particularly good mouthfeel on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 GillanP 15.95 (The first release from Gillan, produced from the Eastfields Vineyard of Hamish and Anne Young, had instantaneous success, winning a gold medal at the 1994 Air New Zealand Wine Awards, New Zealand s premier wine show. The 1996 vintage showed well at the 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition. Now-2 yearsS 1996U ShellfishX 1008Z 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Eastfields Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _!Gillan Eastfields Sauvignon Blanc Gillan Wines $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Gillan Wines >[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, crisp, pungently herbal, with hints of gooseberry and redcurrant. The palate is light on entry but builds on the mid to back palate, with riper gooseberry flavours on the finish, attesting to its 13.5 degrees alcohol. Bone-dry. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, crisp, pungently herbal, with hints of gooseberry and redcurrant. The palate is light on entry but builds on the mid to back palate, with riper gooseberry flavours on the finish, attesting to its 13.5 degrees alcohol. Bone-dry.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 N Ata RangiP Phyll Pattie was the Chardonnay maker and her stated aim was to produce a food style, with the emphasis on complexity and structure. New oak barriques are used, with barrel fermentation, partial malolactic fermentation and lees maturation. Pattie succeeded admirably in her aim; Oliver Masters will no doubt keep the style intact. The 1996 was a gold medal winner at the 1997 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Smoked chickenX 2001Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa M Craighall Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Ata Rangi Craighall Chardonnay c Ata Rangi $26-50 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 % Ata Rangi [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a rich toasty oaky bouquet leads logically into an extremely rich and complex wine on the palate, with pronounced malolactic fermentation influences, and even more new oak - just a little too much for my taste. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a rich toasty oaky bouquet leads logically into an extremely rich and complex wine on the palate, with pronounced malolactic fermentation influences, and even more new oak - just a little too much for my taste.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 CanadoroP One of the small Wellington/Wairarapa vineyards which supports the view that the region is as well (if not better) suited to Cabernet Sauvignon as it is to Pinot Noir. The 96 vintage won two silver medals in New Zealand wine shows which, I suppose, adds weight to the argument. Particularly when tasted alongside Australian Cabernet Sauvignons, shows the telltale green edges of the vast majority of New Zealand Cabernets. For the record, the wine spends just under 12 months (46 weeks, to be B precise) in French oak. R 2-5 yearsS 1994U Veal saltimboccaX 2005Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand Canadoro Cabernet Sauvignon Canadoro $26-50 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Canadoro 7[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red, with tinges of purple; the bouquet is fragrant, but unambiguously in the leafy/earthy spectrum, and slightly sharp. The palate is quite savoury and spicy, but again the flavours are in the leafy/minty/earthy spectrum. Happily, the tannins are not aggressive. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red, with tinges of purple; the bouquet is fragrant, but unambiguously in the leafy/earthy spectrum, and slightly sharp. The palate is quite savoury and spicy, but again the flavours are in the leafy/minty/earthy spectrum. Happily, the tannins are not aggressive.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Clearview EstateP xThe Clearview vineyards are planted on a free-draining shingle which always limits the yield and protects against dilution through wet weather. The wine was made from low-yielding vines and exhibits tremendous concentration and power. It spends 18 months in predominantly French Nevers oak with a touch of Seguin Moreau American oak. Both the 94 and 95 received gold medals. 7-10 yearsS 1994U Smoked lambX 2007Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand Clearview Estate Reserve Merlot Clearview Estate $26-50 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Clearview Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Very good purple-red; the bouquet is slightly lighter than the 94, but will evolve with more bottle age. The palate is long and intense with lively and fresh mint, leaf and red berry flavours, finishing with fine tannins. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Very good purple-red; the bouquet is slightly lighter than the 94, but will evolve with more bottle age. The palate is long and intense with lively and fresh mint, leaf and red berry flavours, finishing with fine tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 C J PaskP Chris Pask was the first vigneron to plant vines in the now famous Gimblett Road region when he moved there in 1982. The deep gravel soils always produce wines with an extra dimension of flavour, even in difficult vintages such as 1995. Gifted winemaker Kate Radburnd uses an interesting approach for the sauvignon blanc, relying on multiple pickings between 18.5 and 21.5 brix to give a range of fruit flavours and a balance of acidity. The wine is cold fermented in stainless steel, and retaB2ins around 5.5 grams per litre of residual sugar. R Drink nowS 1995U ShellfishX 2010Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand C J Pask Sauvignon Blanc C J Pask Winery $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 C J Pask Winery [[4wine glasses] 1997 CJ Pask SB. Light yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp, and while of light to medium intensity does show a range of passionfruit, citrus and gooseberry aromas. The brisk, tangy and spotlessly clean palate has lemony and gently herbal fruit flavours, the finish giving no hint of the touch of unfermented sugar. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">CJ Pask SB. Light yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp, and while of light to medium intensity does show a range of passionfruit, citrus and gooseberry aromas. The brisk, tangy and spotlessly clean palate has lemony and gently herbal fruit flavours, the finish giving no hint of the touch of unfermented sugar.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 C J PaskP The experience of Kate Radburnd shows through in this wine, as does her philosophy that it should be the fruit to shine through, rather than complicated oak handling. Produced from a mix of Mendoza (50%) and clones 6 and 15. The wine is not given any skin contact, but is crushed direct into press and is then tank fermented, employing innerstaves and/or oak chips. No malolactic fermentation, of course. R 1-3 yearsS 1995U White-fleshed fishX 2011Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand C J Pask Chardonnay C J Pask Winery $16-20 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 C J Pask Winery >[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; light and fresh nectarine fruit of medium intensity together with a touch of spicy oak on the bouquet is followed by a fresh and lively melon and nectarine-flavoured palate; very sensitive use of oak which works well to provide delicate seasoning. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; light and fresh nectarine fruit of medium intensity together with a touch of spicy oak on the bouquet is followed by a fresh and lively melon and nectarine-flavoured palate; very sensitive use of oak which works well to provide delicate seasoning.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 N Dry RiverP For many observers, New Zealand s finest Pinot Noir and certainly its most sought after. Immaculately crafted, as are all of Neil McCallum s wines, but with all of the robust fruit of Martinborough at its best. R Up to 7 years 1994U Coq au vinX 2018Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Dry River Pinot Noir c Dry River $26-50 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 % Dry River J[5wine glasses] 1996 Strong and dense purple-red; the bouquet is similarly intense, concentrated and complex with abundant ripe plummy fruit. The palate is exceptionally rich and smooth, with masses of dark plum fruit showing absolute ripeness; finishes with fine tannins and subtle oak. Compellingly powerful. RATING: 96 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong and dense purple-red; the bouquet is similarly intense, concentrated and complex with abundant ripe plummy fruit. The palate is exceptionally rich and smooth, with masses of dark plum fruit showing absolute ripeness; finishes with fine tannins and subtle oak. Compellingly powerful.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">96 Forrest EstateP uHighly rated by The Wine Magazine of the UK, and made in consistent fashion over the past few years, in particular utilising the high levels of residual sugar found in many Marlborough Rieslings to balance the high acidity. For some strange reason, I have found that level of residual sugar more obvious in the Forrest Estate Riesling than other makers such as Grove Mill. R 3-6 yearsS 1994U Full-flavoured saladsX 2019Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Forrest Estate Riesling Forrest Estate $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Forrest Estate [3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a discreet bouquet minerally and not aromatic is followed by a light, crisp and clean palate, which has no fault but which lacks the expected intensity and sparkle. By all accounts the 97 is significantly better. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a discreet bouquet minerally and not aromatic is followed by a light, crisp and clean palate, which has no fault but which lacks the expected intensity and sparkle. By all accounts the 97 is significantly better.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Giesen EstateP \Produced from the heart of 4 hectares of estate plantings in the Canterbury region, and the most convincing possible demonstration of the suitability of this region for Pinot Noir. The 94 richly deserved its gold medal at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. The 96 was a gold medal winner at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show of Australia. R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Peking duckX 2023Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Reserve Canterbury Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _+Giesen Estate Reserve Canterbury Pinot Noir Giesen Estate $26-50 Canterbury 14/7/98 Giesen Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Good red-purple; abundant plum and cherry fruit is offset against spicy toasty oak on the bouquet. The palate, like the bouquet, has power and depth, and will evolve yet further with additional time in bottle. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Good red-purple; abundant plum and cherry fruit is offset against spicy toasty oak on the bouquet. The palate, like the bouquet, has power and depth, and will evolve yet further with additional time in bottle. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 N GladstoneP Made from estate plantings established in 1984 on an ancient riverbed with sandy clay loam over river gravels. Complex winemaking techniques see part of the wine tank-fermented, part barrel-fermented and taken through malolactic fermentation. Superb Sauvignon Blanc has been produced since 1992. The wine always seems to possess an extra degree of richness, without ever being coarse, phenolic or aggressive. Now-2 yearsS 1995U MusselsX 2024Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Gladstone Sauvignon Blanc Gladstone Vineyard $16-20 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Gladstone Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a clean, crisp and restrained bouquet with lemon/mineral aromas is followed by an equally tight and restrained palate with mineral, herb and lemon flavours; excellent acidity and length. A second-glass style. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a clean, crisp and restrained bouquet with lemon/mineral aromas is followed by an equally tight and restrained palate with mineral, herb and lemon flavours; excellent acidity and length. A second-glass style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Grove MillP Made from grapes grown principally on the Framingham vineyard, and given top ranking by Michael Cooper (five stars), Keith Stewart (Fine Wines of New Zealand), and Bob Campbell (Wine Annual). The extraordinary feature of the wine is the way it carries its residual sugar, which typically varies between 24 and 30 grams per litre, almost into sp tlese levels, yet always seems balanced. It is a further testament to the integrity (as well as the quality of the label) that no Riesling was bottleB%d under the Grove Mill label in 1995. 5-10 yearsS 1994U Salad of snow peasX 2027Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Grove Mill Marlborough Riesling Grove Mill $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Grove Mill [4wine glasses] 1997 Excellent green-yellow; the bouquet is redolent with lime/tropical fruit, the palate very rich, full and generous, with more of that fleshy/tropical/lime fruit of the bouquet. There may have been a touch of botrytis, but who cares. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Excellent green-yellow; the bouquet is redolent with lime/tropical fruit, the palate very rich, full and generous, with more of that fleshy/tropical/lime fruit of the bouquet. There may have been a touch of botrytis, but who cares.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Grove MillP The gold label Lansdowne Chardonnay burst on to the scene with its 1989 vintage which was awarded the trophy as Champion Chardonnay of the Air New Zealand Wine Awards, and hasn t looked back since. The style was opulent to the point of being baroque, although in more recent years it has become (comparatively speaking) more restrained, and offers a more certain cellaring future than the earlier years. One hundred per cent barrel-fermented and matured for 20 months in one-year-old Nevers, TrB oncais and Bourgogne barriques, with the full gamut of winemaking techniques including prolonged lees ageing without sulphur dioxide and partial malolactic fermentation. R 2-4 yearsS 1993U Smoked porkX 2028Z 14/7/98a Marlborough M Lansdowne Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Grove Mill Lansdowne Chardonnay Grove Mill $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Grove Mill [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium green-yellow; a clean and fresh bouquet with melon and nectarine fruit surrounded by subtle but nonetheless evident oak. The palate is elegant and delicate, with smooth nectarine and melon flavours and a long, unforced finish. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; a clean and fresh bouquet with melon and nectarine fruit surrounded by subtle but nonetheless evident oak. The palate is elegant and delicate, with smooth nectarine and melon flavours and a long, unforced finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Grove MillP It would seem I rate this wine a little higher than most New Zealand judges and writers, although it certainly receives strong support across the board from the critics. To a lesser degree than the Lansdowne Chardonnay, it is a love it or hate it style, and one certainly needs to know what has gone on in the making of the wine. This is a long way from the straightforward no-frills cutthroat Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc style, utilising partial oak ageing, partial malolactic fermentation, B some Semillon if the year is right and, generally speaking, of a lot of thought. If the 96 was outstanding, and it was, the 97 is even more brilliant a wonderful wine. R(Best young, and then again after 4 yearsS 1996U Wairau River troutX 2030Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _&Grove Mill Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Grove Mill $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Grove Mill [5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a spotlessly clean, wonderfully fragrant, almost crunchy crisp gooseberry and passionfruit bouquet leads into a wonderfully pure palate, with impeccable balance, outstanding length and glorious varietal definition. RATING: 96 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a spotlessly clean, wonderfully fragrant, almost crunchy crisp gooseberry and passionfruit bouquet leads into a wonderfully pure palate, with impeccable balance, outstanding length and glorious varietal definition.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">96 CorbansP SThe grapes for this wine were whole-bunch pressed direct to new and one-year-old French barriques, and the wine was not innoculated, undergoing a natural fermentation. The technique is very evident in the wine, which certainly challenges conventional wisdom and which (in 1995) was a radical departure from the extremely good 94 vintage. R 3-4 yearsS 1994U SweetbreadsX 2034Z 14/7/98a Gisborne Cottage Block Gisborne Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _)Corbans Cottage Block Gisborne Chardonnay Corbans (Gisborne) $26-50 Gisborne/Poverty Bay 14/7/98 Corbans (Gisborne) u[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium yellow-green; a striking, challenging bouquet with very strong French hot solids characters. The palate is less unconventional and challenging, with considerable length and complexity, although there is an echo of the hot solids characters on the finish. Tailor-made for those who love traditional French Burgundies. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a striking, challenging bouquet with very strong French hot solids characters. The palate is less unconventional and challenging, with considerable length and complexity, although there is an echo of the hot solids characters on the finish. Tailor-made for those who love traditional French Burgundies.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 CorbansP 15QpA no-frills but ever-reliable unwooded Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc which normally contains around 15% Semillon. R Drink nowS 1996U SeafoodX 2038Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _"Corbans Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc Corbans (Marlborough) $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Corbans (Marlborough) [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; some apparent slow ferment characters on the bouquet, with a passionfruit yeast overlay on pleasant fruit. The palate is pleasant, of light to medium body, with gooseberry and passionfruit flavours. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; some apparent slow ferment characters on the bouquet, with a passionfruit yeast overlay on pleasant fruit. The palate is pleasant, of light to medium body, with gooseberry and passionfruit flavours.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 LincolnP First made in the difficult vintage of 1995, with a follow-up from the very nearly as difficult 1996. The 97 must have given Lincoln considerable satisfaction.R Drink nowS 1995U OystersX 2043Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _#Lincoln Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Lincoln Vineyards $11-15 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Lincoln Vineyards [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a pungent bouquet with a mix of herbal, sweet capsicum, asparagus and redcurrant aromas leads onto a crisply powerful palate with a long finish and pungent acidity. Excellent fruit intensity. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a pungent bouquet with a mix of herbal, sweet capsicum, asparagus and redcurrant aromas leads onto a crisply powerful palate with a long finish and pungent acidity. Excellent fruit intensity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Linden EstateP 18Q\Estate-grown, and aged in American oak for eight months; carries the American oak very well.R 2-5 yearsS 1995U Chicken cacciatoreX 2044Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Esk Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _#Linden Estate Esk Valley Chardonnay Linden Estate $16-20 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Linden Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with toasty vanilla oak immediately obvious, but with good fruit there to carry that oak. The well-structured palate has melon, fig and cashew flavours, again with some toasty oak. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with toasty vanilla oak immediately obvious, but with good fruit there to carry that oak. The well-structured palate has melon, fig and cashew flavours, again with some toasty oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Lintz EstateP Given the full winemaking treatment, with three hours skin contact, overnight cold settling, then simultaneous inoculation for both primary and malolactic fermentation; then transferred to barriques for fermentation and total malolactic fermentation, 80% new barrels are used, 10% American, the remainder from the centre of France. Nine months lees contact with light stirring before bottling. The 96 vintage won a gold medal at its only showing at the 1997 Liquorland Royal Easter Wine Show. R Drink nowS 1995U Smoked chicken and avocado saladX 2045Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Lintz Estate Chardonnay Lintz Estate $26-50 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Lintz Estate R[4wine glasses] 1996 Full yellow; an extremely powerful, highly worked and complex bouquet showing the full gamut of barrel-ferment and malolactic fermentation influences. The palate is rich and big, with creamy/toasty/nutty flavours again tracking and reflecting the winemaking techniques. Less might be better still. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full yellow; an extremely powerful, highly worked and complex bouquet showing the full gamut of barrel-ferment and malolactic fermentation influences. The palate is rich and big, with creamy/toasty/nutty flavours again tracking and reflecting the winemaking techniques. Less might be better still.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Mills ReefP 27.50Q Made from 100% Hawke's Bay Chardonnay, fermented and aged in oak for nine months, a very unusual approach, and then tiraged before spending over two years on yeast lees prior to disgorging.R 1990, 1991, 1992U Most fish or white meat dishesX 2053Z 14/7/98a Waikato and Bay of Plenty Vintage Traditional Method X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand _%Mills Reef Vintage Traditional Method Mills Reef Winery $26-50 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Mills Reef Winery [4.5wine glasses] 1992 Glowing yellow-green; a clean bouquet with strong toasty/bready, yet crisp, fruit. The palate is complex and well balanced with creamy/nutty/toasty flavours, yet not obviously oaky. Good finish and balance. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1992 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; a clean bouquet with strong toasty/bready, yet crisp, fruit. The palate is complex and well balanced with creamy/nutty/toasty flavours, yet not obviously oaky. Good finish and balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MissionP First made in 1992, and has done much to lift the profile of Mission. Each vintage released (it is not made every year) has justified both price and the premium label.R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Veal parmigianaX 2055Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Jewelstone Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Mission Jewelstone Chardonnay Mission Estate Winery $26-50 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Mission Estate Winery [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a well-balanced and composed bouquet of considerable complexity with attractive biscuity notes is followed by an elegant palate in which well-judged winemaker inputs into medium weight Chardonnay has produced a stylish drink. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a well-balanced and composed bouquet of considerable complexity with attractive biscuity notes is followed by an elegant palate in which well-judged winemaker inputs into medium weight Chardonnay has produced a stylish drink.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 NautilusP 19.50 Sourced from five different Marlborough vineyards, and a mix of the Mendoza clone (55%), Clone 6 (35%) and Clone 15 (12%). If this were not enough, 70% of the wine was barrel-fermented in French oak (30% new); part of the wine was matured in oak post fermentation; and 30% goes through malolactic fermentation. Then followed eight months on yeast lees. Anything more you wish to know? Now-2 yearsS 1994U Pheasant, guineafowlX 2062Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Nautilus Chardonnay Nautilus Wines $16-20 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Nautilus Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with light melon and citrus fruit augmented by subtle toasty oak. The palate is nowhere near as complex as the winemaking techniques would suggest, but instead crisp, clean and delicate. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with light melon and citrus fruit augmented by subtle toasty oak. The palate is nowhere near as complex as the winemaking techniques would suggest, but instead crisp, clean and delicate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 NeudorfP Tim Finn creeps up on you with his Riesling, made in tiny quantities from 2 acres of close-planted estate vineyards. Different in style from the Marlborough Rieslings, as one would expect, but out of the same basic family. R Up to 5 years 1994U Marinated grilled octopusX 2063Z 14/7/98a Nelson Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Neudorf Riesling Neudorf Vineyards $16-20 Nelson 14/7/98 Neudorf Vineyards 4[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is initially quite tight and crisp, but the mineral, herb and lime aromas build in intensity as you go back to the wine. The palate is typically tight, crisp and minerally, with some lime flavours; an absolute certainty for the cellar. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is initially quite tight and crisp, but the mineral, herb and lime aromas build in intensity as you go back to the wine. The palate is typically tight, crisp and minerally, with some lime flavours; an absolute certainty for the cellar.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 NeudorfP 17.40Q After the odd peregrination, has settled back to Nelson (and a predominantly estate-grown) base. Eighty per cent of the wine is stainless steel fermented; 20% barrel-fermented in old French oak.R Drink nowS 1996U ShellfishX 2064Z 14/7/98a Nelson Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Neudorf Sauvignon Blanc Neudorf Vineyards $16-20 Nelson 14/7/98 Neudorf Vineyards [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a richly textured bouquet with a subtle hint of oak and sweet fruit running from conventional aromas into nectarine, but without any flabbiness. The palate, likewise, is rich and fleshy yet not heavy; even the most hardened opponent of Sauvignon Blanc could not fail to enjoy this wine, particularly when you arrive to the richly textured back palate and finish. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a richly textured bouquet with a subtle hint of oak and sweet fruit running from conventional aromas into nectarine, but without any flabbiness. The palate, likewise, is rich and fleshy yet not heavy; even the most hardened opponent of Sauvignon Blanc could not fail to enjoy this wine, particularly when you arrive to the richly textured back palate and finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Palliser EstateP The Wellington/Wairarapa region seems to produce excellent Sauvignon Blanc year in, year out, a capacity underlined by the success the region has had in the annual Air New Zealand Wine Awards. Palliser Estate has been one of the most consistent and impressive performers. 1-3 years.S 1996U Grilled fishX 2066Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Palliser Estate Sauvignon Blanc Palliser Estate $16-20 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Palliser Estate A[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp, clean and light, but with a range of fruit characters running from herbal/capsicum through to passionfruit. The palate is clean and lively, again showing a faint grassy cut to the finish, but with some sweet fruit sustaining the middle. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp, clean and light, but with a range of fruit characters running from herbal/capsicum through to passionfruit. The palate is clean and lively, again showing a faint grassy cut to the finish, but with some sweet fruit sustaining the middle. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Palliser EstateP Often somewhat lighter than the biggest wines from Wellington/Wairarapa, but always showing bell-clear varietal character. Typically made using extended pre-fermentation cold-soak, a warm primary fermentation and then extended post-fermentation maceration. Matured for 12 months on light lees in a mix of new and older French oak casks. In 1996 the wine achieved 14.5% alcohol, which may or may not be a badge of honour. Short termS 1994U Duck risottoX 2067Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Palliser Estate Pinot Noir Palliser Estate $26-50 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Palliser Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is full and very ripe, with masses of plum and cherry varietal fruit. The palate is generous and full-bodied, with the fruit flavours literally dancing on the tongue and flooding the mouth. There is the faintest echo of that over-ripe fruit character evident on the bouquet, but the wine gets away with it. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is full and very ripe, with masses of plum and cherry varietal fruit. The palate is generous and full-bodied, with the fruit flavours literally dancing on the tongue and flooding the mouth. There is the faintest echo of that over-ripe fruit character evident on the bouquet, but the wine gets away with it. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Pegasus BayP The Sauvignon Blanc component is cold-fermented in stainless steel, the Semillon component barrel-fermented and taken through malolactic fermentation. Both components are aged separately on lees for approximately eight months before blending and bottling.R 2-4 yearsS 1994U FettucciniX 2068Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand _$Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Pegasus Bay $21-25 Canterbury 14/7/98 Pegasus Bay [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is very complex, with ripe, tropical gooseberry fruit and nutty, slightly hessiany, overtones. The palate is similarly complex, with ripe tropical fruit, but treading a little heavily on the finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is very complex, with ripe, tropical gooseberry fruit and nutty, slightly hessiany, overtones. The palate is similarly complex, with ripe tropical fruit, but treading a little heavily on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Pegasus BayP Notwithstanding the use of a Scott-Henry trellis for this estate-grown wine, and not withstanding its 12.5% alcohol, it makes one question whether the Bordeaux varieties are as well suited to Canterbury as those of Burgundy this notwithstanding the success of the Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blend. However, it has to be said the end result is an attractive, light-bodied wine. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, given post-fermentation maceration. R Drink nowS 1994U VealX 2069Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Maestro Cabernet Blends New Zealand Pegasus Bay Maestro Pegasus Bay $26-50 Canterbury 14/7/98 Pegasus Bay 0[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, quite intense, with sweet cassis, Ribena fruit. There is similar, attractively sweet fruit on the palate with mulberry and cassis supported by subtle oak. The tannins are soft and ripe; the wine does not taste green. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, quite intense, with sweet cassis, Ribena fruit. There is similar, attractively sweet fruit on the palate with mulberry and cassis supported by subtle oak. The tannins are soft and ripe; the wine does not taste green.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Greenhough VineyardP }Four clones of pinot noir (under New Zealand numbering system 22, 5, 6 and 10/5) are utilised and fermented separately prior to blending. Prefermentation cold maceration for three days is followed by a warm fermentation, with the total time on skins between ten and 12 days. Matured in a mix of new to three-year-old French oak barriques; coarse earth filtration prior to bottling. R 1-3 yearsS 1994U Smoked quailX 2071Z 14/7/98a Nelson Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Greenhough Vineyard Pinot Noir Greenhough Vineyard $16-20 Nelson 14/7/98 Greenhough Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and correct, with sappy notes and some varietal character. While the palate is not particularly lush or fruity, has good structure, particularly the tannins; touches of game and forest. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and correct, with sappy notes and some varietal character. While the palate is not particularly lush or fruity, has good structure, particularly the tannins; touches of game and forest. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Rippon VineyardP Eighty per cent of the fruit is destemmed, 20% fermented as whole bunches, with foot stamping (pigeage). The wine spends 11 months in French oak and is racked once, with no filtration prior to bottling.R 2 yearsS 1994U Coq au vinX 2074Z 14/7/98a Otago Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Rippon Vineyard Pinot Noir Rippon Vineyard $26-50 Otago 14/7/98 Rippon Vineyard +[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; the bouquet is distinctive, with predominantly plum and some cherry fruit; no excess carbonic maceration characters. The palate has crystal clean Pinot varietal flavour in a similar plum/cherry spectrum, and is not jammy. Subtle oak; good length. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is distinctive, with predominantly plum and some cherry fruit; no excess carbonic maceration characters. The palate has crystal clean Pinot varietal flavour in a similar plum/cherry spectrum, and is not jammy. Subtle oak; good length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Te KairangaP First made in 1994 from the lowest-yielding and best parcels of fruit available to Te Kairanga, and the Reserve range of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is only produced in better vintages when exceptional levels of fruit ripeness and flavour are achieved in the winery, and which then justify the use of a higher percentage of new oak. The wine spends 11 months in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak barriques and 15% is taken through malolactic fermentation. Now-2 yearsS 1995U SweetbreadsX 2085Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Te Kairanga Reserve Chardonnay Te Kairanga Wines $26-50 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Te Kairanga Wines D[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a restrained and elegant bouquet with citrus/grapefruit aromas and subtle oak introduces a wine of considerable elegance. The palate has length and persistence, with attractive nectarine/citrus fruit, and nicely restrained oak and malolactic fermentation inputs. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a restrained and elegant bouquet with citrus/grapefruit aromas and subtle oak introduces a wine of considerable elegance. The palate has length and persistence, with attractive nectarine/citrus fruit, and nicely restrained oak and malolactic fermentation inputs. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 McDonaldP Estate-grown, but selected from various vineyard blocks according to the vintage, the one constant being the Mendoza clone. After brief settling, the wine is taken direct to barrel for fermentation in French oak (two-thirds new) situated in a temperature-controlled cool room. A portion of the wine is taken through malolactic fermentation, and the wine spends seven months on yeast lees before being cleaned up and bottled. Always an outstanding wine at the very top of the New Zealand tree. Up to 4 yearsS 1995U Yellow-fin tunaX 2086Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Church Road Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _'McDonald Church Road Reserve Chardonnay McDonald Winery $26-50 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 McDonald Winery Q[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a wine which continuously evolves and reveals itself as it sits in the glass, tightly constructed but extremely stylish. The palate is beautifully balanced, with gently ripe melon and fig fruit supported by faultless oak handling. It has an exceptionally long carry and finish. RATING: 97 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a wine which continuously evolves and reveals itself as it sits in the glass, tightly constructed but extremely stylish. The palate is beautifully balanced, with gently ripe melon and fig fruit supported by faultless oak handling. It has an exceptionally long carry and finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">97 MilltonP 18.90 FThe wine is made from grapes hand-picked over a number of days, barrel-fermented and aged for six months in oak. The 94 was the trophy winner for the Champion Dry White Wine Other Varieties at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards, and a remarkable wine in all respects. The 96 is a less remarkable vintage, but a good wine. Now- 5 yearsS 1994U Seafood bisqueX 2087Z 14/7/98a Gisborne Chenin Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand Millton Chenin Blanc Millton Vineyard $16-20 Gisborne/Poverty Bay 14/7/98 Millton Vineyard <[4wine glasses] 1996 Full yellow, with just a hint of green; the generous bouquet has aromas of soft peach, spice and honey with nicely controlled oak. The palate is soft, fleshy and rounded, though not particularly concentrated; may well build complexity and character with further time in bottle. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full yellow, with just a hint of green; the generous bouquet has aromas of soft peach, spice and honey with nicely controlled oak. The palate is soft, fleshy and rounded, though not particularly concentrated; may well build complexity and character with further time in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 VavasourP As from 1996, the Single Vineyard label replaced the former Reserve. As one would expect, barrel-fermented (20% new French oak) and spent nine months on yeast lees. I am a great admirer of Glenn Thomas's winemaking, and given the reviews by other critics of the wine made in 1996, I can only assume I either got a bad bottle or had an extremely bad day when I tasted it. I therefore suggest you treat the tasting note and points with considerable caution. Up to 5 yearsS 1996U Milk-fed vealX 2088Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Single Vineyard Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _#Vavasour Single Vineyard Chardonnay Vavasour Wines $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Vavasour Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a discreet bouquet with cashew, malolactic and minerally overtones leads into a palate with quite strange cashew/butterscotch malolactic influences, which simply didn't appeal, and which I couldn't readily identify. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a discreet bouquet with cashew, malolactic and minerally overtones leads into a palate with quite strange cashew/butterscotch malolactic influences, which simply didn't appeal, and which I couldn't readily identify.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 VavasourP When first released in 1989, this wine was simply called 'Vavasour Reserve'. In the years it has been made since 1994 (there was no 1995) it has been called Single Vineyard , but no name ascribed, simply because Glenn Thomas wishes to have freedom to select what he considers to be the very best block or blocks of grapes in any given vintage. Fifty per cent of the wine was barrel-fermented and taken through malolactic fermentation, the remainder steel-fermented. An exceptional wine, drivenB' by the intense, ripe, low-yield fruit. R(2 years, then leave it alone for 3 yearsS 1996U Mussel soupX 2090Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _(Vavasour Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Vavasour Wines $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Vavasour Wines @[5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; intense lime, nettle, herb and gooseberry fruit on the bouquet is supported by almost subliminal oak. An intensely rich yet not blowsy wine in the mouth, with more of those lime, herb and gooseberry flavours on a long, lingering, faintly spicy finish. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; intense lime, nettle, herb and gooseberry fruit on the bouquet is supported by almost subliminal oak. An intensely rich yet not blowsy wine in the mouth, with more of those lime, herb and gooseberry flavours on a long, lingering, faintly spicy finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Vidal EstateP 1Now produced from Vidal's own vineyard at Ngakirkiri, planted between 1992 and 1995 on gravelly soil. Universally regarded as one of New Zealand's greatest Cabernets, and I am not about to challenge that rating. It spends 20 months in oak, 90% French and 70% new, and incorporates just a touch of Malbec. 7-10 yearsS 1990U Rack of New Zealand lambX 2091Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _'Vidal Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Vidal Estate $26-50 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Vidal Estate g[5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is extremely classy, with rippling aromas running through earth to cassis, but predominantly sweet, and with a subtle touch of lifted oak. A powerful wine in the mouth with classic Cabernet varietal flavours of cassis, chocolate and earth skilfully supported by sweet vanillin oak. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is extremely classy, with rippling aromas running through earth to cassis, but predominantly sweet, and with a subtle touch of lifted oak. A powerful wine in the mouth with classic Cabernet varietal flavours of cassis, chocolate and earth skilfully supported by sweet vanillin oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Vidal EstateP One of the most highly regarded of the Hawke s Bay Chardonnays, even if overshadowed in the eyes of some by its sister wine from Villa Maria. The style is moving along with the mainstream of New Zealand Chardonnay, away from overblown, over-extractive making to a more restrained mode, but without sacrificing drinkability and accessibility. Barrel-fermented in French oak (two-thirds new), part of the ferment in a cool room, and part ambient. Fifty per cent of the wine was taken through maloB=lactic fermentation, and it was given the usual lees contact. Now-2 yearsS 1996U Veal fricasseeX 2092Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Vidal Estate Reserve Chardonnay Vidal Estate $26-50 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Vidal Estate ?[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet, which is quite intense, with good fruit and oak balance and integration. A multilayered, multiflavoured wine on the palate with cashew, butter and cream flavours running through the mid to back palate, finishing with well-balanced acidity. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet, which is quite intense, with good fruit and oak balance and integration. A multilayered, multiflavoured wine on the palate with cashew, butter and cream flavours running through the mid to back palate, finishing with well-balanced acidity. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Wairau RiverP .First made in 1992, and has evolved and improved over the ensuing vintages, particularly with the introduction in 1994 of 40% of clone 6 to ameliorate the excessive power (and acid) of the Mendoza clone. Scott-Henry trellising also helps; barrel-fermented and 30% taken through malolactic fermentation. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Smoked troutX 2096Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Wairau River Chardonnay Wairau River Wines $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 Wairau River Wines f[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow, very advanced for age. The bouquet is quite complex and rich, with buttery/toasty/nutty aromas deriving in part from malolactic fermentation and in part from oak. The palate is soft and fleshy, with buttery flavours in emphatic drink-now style. Retasted September 1997 and showing good character. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow, very advanced for age. The bouquet is quite complex and rich, with buttery/toasty/nutty aromas deriving in part from malolactic fermentation and in part from oak. The palate is soft and fleshy, with buttery flavours in emphatic drink-now style. Retasted September 1997 and showing good character.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Wither HillsP First made in 1992, with the follow-on vintage from 94. An extremely distinguished wine; the latter was a gold medal winner at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards.R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Prawns with walnutsX 2098Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Wither Hills Chardonnay Wither Hills Vineyards $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 Wither Hills Vineyards [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the stylish and tangy bouquet shows obvious barrel-ferment characters; the palate, however, is marvellously soft yet not flabby, with a textured silky delicacy surrounded by nectarine fruit and some cashew characters. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the stylish and tangy bouquet shows obvious barrel-ferment characters; the palate, however, is marvellously soft yet not flabby, with a textured silky delicacy surrounded by nectarine fruit and some cashew characters.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Wither HillsP 18QlFirst made in 1994; I may have been a bit hard in my judgment of the 96, but the 97 is a marvellous wine. R Drink nowS 1996U SashimiX 2099Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc Wither Hills Vineyards $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Wither Hills Vineyards [5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is fragrant with gooseberry, redcurrant and tropical fruit aromas which come again on the lush gooseberry/passionfruit-flavoured palate. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is fragrant with gooseberry, redcurrant and tropical fruit aromas which come again on the lush gooseberry/passionfruit-flavoured palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Saint Clair EstateP Produced from the Saint Clair Estate vineyards in the Wairau and Awatere Valleys. The 1994 vintage was a triumphant introduction, and did much to establish the reputation of Saint Clair.R Short termS 1996U SashimiX 2100Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _.Saint Clair Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Saint Clair Estate $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Saint Clair Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is firm, clean and crisp with tangy capsicum and herbal notes. The palate is very lively, with a tangy lift to the fruit, and braced by some mineral/chalky notes which run through to the finish. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is firm, clean and crisp with tangy capsicum and herbal notes. The palate is very lively, with a tangy lift to the fruit, and braced by some mineral/chalky notes which run through to the finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Te KairangaP 21.50 A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, aged in a mix of predominantly used and some new barrels for 12 months. The Merlot component makes the wine a more attractive alternative to the straight Cabernet Sauvignon also made by Te Kairanga.R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Seared fillet of venisonX 2101Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand Te Kairanga Cabernet Merlot Te Kairanga Wines $21-25 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Te Kairanga Wines [3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and light, with a mix of leafy/minty/gravelly aromas. A well-enough made wine, but unmistakably New Zealand in character, unable to escape the constraints of the climate. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and light, with a mix of leafy/minty/gravelly aromas. A well-enough made wine, but unmistakably New Zealand in character, unable to escape the constraints of the climate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 MontanaP This was the first wine to focus attention on the extraordinarily symbiotic relationship between Marlborough and Sauvignon Blanc. Right from the outset, it has been made in a no-frills fashion, using free-run juice, and simple stainless steel tank fermentation at low temperatures. The price has always been ultra-competitive, and the best vintages have shown a remarkable capacity to age gracefully in bottle, even if the wines do pass through a typically dumb phase after they lose their initBRial bright fresh fruit, before emerging three or four years later as mature wines. NowS+ YU ShellfishX 2103Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Montana Sauvignon Blanc Montana Wines $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Montana Wines ([4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; crystal clear, razor-sharp varietal fruit on both the bouquet and palate, with a mixture of herb, mineral, capsicum and gooseberry running throughout, and that long, crisp, cleansing finish. Not complex, not concentrated but great value. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; crystal clear, razor-sharp varietal fruit on both the bouquet and palate, with a mixture of herb, mineral, capsicum and gooseberry running throughout, and that long, crisp, cleansing finish. Not complex, not concentrated but great value.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 SandihurstP A special selection of Pinot Gris, which is produced both in a non-Reserve and Reserve form. It is a variety which Sandihurst says is specially suited to the region, and I can but agree.R Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Delicately spiced seafoodX 2105Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Pinot Gris Reserve White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand Sandihurst Pinot Gris Reserve Sandihurst Wines $16-20 Canterbury 14/7/98 Sandihurst Wines ][4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; an exotically rich, perfumed bouquet almost into Gewurztraminer aromaticity. The impressively rich and powerful palate is reminiscent of the weight and structure of T'Gallant's Tribute Pinot Gris from the Mornington Peninsula in good vintages; the ripe, exotic fruit fills the back palate. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; an exotically rich, perfumed bouquet almost into Gewurztraminer aromaticity. The impressively rich and powerful palate is reminiscent of the weight and structure of T'Gallant's Tribute Pinot Gris from the Mornington Peninsula in good vintages; the ripe, exotic fruit fills the back palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Saint Clair EstateP 6Prior to 1997, was made from contract-grown fruit, but in this year the Saint Clair Estate produced its first crop of riesling which will henceforth be the basis of the wine. Thirty per cent of the grapes were botrytis-affected, and (somewhat unusually) the wine was given brief skin contact prior to pressing. Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Avocado saladX 2107Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _'Saint Clair Estate Marlborough Riesling Saint Clair Estate $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Saint Clair Estate }[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is slightly subdued, clean, but not showing a lot of fruit. However, the palate is very different, with powerful tropical/lime flavours, with hints of honey and spice, and the botrytis influence evident but contributing to the complexity of the wine. The residual sugar is well balanced by acidity. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is slightly subdued, clean, but not showing a lot of fruit. However, the palate is very different, with powerful tropical/lime flavours, with hints of honey and spice, and the botrytis influence evident but contributing to the complexity of the wine. The residual sugar is well balanced by acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Hunter 23.50 Having decided to put Sauvignon Blanc in oak, Jane Hunter and her winemaking/consulting team have not done anything by half measures. It is barrel-fermented with a substantial percentage of new wood making a pronounced impact on the wine. Whether it is a better wine than the unoaked version really depends on one s personal view of oak and, for that matter, of Sauvignon Blanc. Universally accepted as a five-star/classic wine. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Grilled spatchcockX 14/7/98a Marlborough Oak Aged Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _!Hunter s Oak Aged Sauvignon Blanc Hunter s Wines $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 Hunter s Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is driven by the sophisticated use of spicy nutmeg oak, which also is an important part of the palate, although here gooseberry fruit appears early and carries through to the finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is driven by the sophisticated use of spicy nutmeg oak, which also is an important part of the palate, although here gooseberry fruit appears early and carries through to the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Hunter 19.95 Made in two versions, this being the major (unoaked) version. Year-in, year-out it is one of New Zealand s best, and acknowledged as such by all the New Zealand commentators and critics. Rigorous fruit selection in 1995 meant that only one-third of the usual volume was made, and paid obvious dividends. It was the highest-pointed New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc in the 1996 Sydney International Wine Competition, and in the top half of the Top 100 wines; the 96 vintage also featured prominently BWin the 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition. The 97 seems slightly off the pace. R 1-2 yearsS 1996U All seafoodX 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Hunter s Sauvignon Blanc Hunter s Wines $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Hunter s Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft, with gently tropical gooseberry fruit and without the crystal clarity one normally finds with Hunter's. The palate is soft, quite full, with tropical gooseberry fruit. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft, with gently tropical gooseberry fruit and without the crystal clarity one normally finds with Hunter's. The palate is soft, quite full, with tropical gooseberry fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Hunter 15.95 @Not a major item in the Hunter s line-up, but an attractive wine, showing typical New Zealand (or, rather, Marlborough) elegance. It ages with grace, showing no tendency to toughen up or coarsen. Part of the grapes, incidentally, are grown by the noted journalist-turned-grape grower Ted Reynolds in the Awatere Valley. R 2-4 yearsS eU Asparagus with hollandaise sauceX 14/7/98a Marlborough Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Hunter s Riesling Hunter s Wines $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Hunter s Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is lifted, with scented tropical lime fruit and hints of spice. The palate is softer than the usual Hunter's Riesling, again with tropical lime fruit flavours. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is lifted, with scented tropical lime fruit and hints of spice. The palate is softer than the usual Hunter's Riesling, again with tropical lime fruit flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Hunter 25.50 Just as the Sauvignon Blanc is so often at the head of the field in New Zealand, so is the Chardonnay. After a slight wobble in 93, bounced back with a vengeance in 94, following up with a marvellous 95 in the face of a challenging vintage. The 96 is in the same class. R 2-5 yearsS 1995U Honey prawnsX 14/7/98a Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Hunter s Chardonnay Hunter s Wines $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 Hunter s Wines &[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a complex array of melon, cashew, fig, and even faintly buttery, aromas with just a hint of spicy oak are followed by a smooth, yet textured, palate displaying all the flavours promised by the bouquet. As ever, sensitive use of oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a complex array of melon, cashew, fig, and even faintly buttery, aromas with just a hint of spicy oak are followed by a smooth, yet textured, palate displaying all the flavours promised by the bouquet. As ever, sensitive use of oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Martinborough VineyardP 27.50 Larry McKenna works very hard with all his wines, focusing as much on structure and mouthfeel as on varietal or primary fruit flavours. These are very complex, sophisticated wines, as far removed from the jungle-juice, phenolic, skin-contacted Chardonnays of bygone years or lesser producers as one could imagine. Produced from estate-grown grapes and grapes from the McCreanor Vineyard; barrel-fermented and aged on lees for 12 months, with 50% malolactic fermentation. R 3-6 yearsS 1995U Pan-fried vealX 14/7/98a Wairarapa Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _!Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay Martinborough Vineyard $26-50 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Martinborough Vineyard &[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean but tangy with a mix of citrus, lemon and white peach fruit supported by subtle oak. There is layer upon layer of flavour on the palate, with cashew, citrus and melon fruit, and just an echo of gently sweet oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean but tangy with a mix of citrus, lemon and white peach fruit supported by subtle oak. There is layer upon layer of flavour on the palate, with cashew, citrus and melon fruit, and just an echo of gently sweet oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Allan ScottP 19.95 Drawn from about 8 hectares of estate plantings. Both the 1992 and the 1993 vintages were outstanding wines, the former winning a gold medal at the Air New Zealand Wine Show, the latter a gold medal at the 1994 Sydney International Wine Competition. The 97 is in the same class. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Fresh asparagusX 14/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _ Allan Scott Marlborough Riesling Allan Scott Wines $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Allan Scott Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet has attractive lime and toast fruit, with plenty of style. The palate is flavoursome with fresh lemony/lime juice fruit; good length and equally good balance. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet has attractive lime and toast fruit, with plenty of style. The palate is flavoursome with fresh lemony/lime juice fruit; good length and equally good balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Allan ScottP 16.95Q Given normal vintage conditions this is a classic example of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, reflecting the viticultural skills and experience of Allan Scott and the maturity of the estate vineyards. R Now-2 yearsS 1995U Sugar-cured tunaX 14/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _'Allan Scott Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Allan Scott Wines $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Allan Scott Wines [4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, but light and lacking the intensity of the best wines of the vintage; the palate, similarly, is clean, crisp and fresh, with just a touch of passionfruit and gentle acid on the finish. Easy drinking. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, but light and lacking the intensity of the best wines of the vintage; the palate, similarly, is clean, crisp and fresh, with just a touch of passionfruit and gentle acid on the finish. Easy drinking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 NobiloP 18.95Q Showed extremely well at the 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition, perfectly made and with all the varietal character one could wish for. Produced from Marlborough grapes, and shows the clearest possible varietal character.R Drink nowS 1996U Asian foodX 3003Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Gewurztraminer White Traminer New Zealand Nobilo Icon Gewurztraminer Nobilo $16-20 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Nobilo [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with generous spice, lychee and apple blossom aromas; the palate crisp and clean, and not quite as intense as the bouquet, but helped by a touch of residual sugar on the finish. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with generous spice, lychee and apple blossom aromas; the palate crisp and clean, and not quite as intense as the bouquet, but helped by a touch of residual sugar on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Selaks Drylands EstateP 19.95 A convincing way to celebrate the commissioning of the Marlborough winery, and an equally convincing demonstration that the marriage of Sauvignon Blanc and oak need not end in divorce. Barrel-fermented in new French oak, both the 96 and 97 are outstanding wines of great complexity, the latter topping the Sauvignon Blanc Class at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show of Australia. R Drink nowS 1996U Seafood pastaX 3004Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Founders Reserve Matador Estate Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _FSelaks Drylands Estate Founders Reserve Matador Estate Sauvignon Blanc Selaks Drylands Estate Winery $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Selaks Drylands Estate Winery J[5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a voluminous, ripe and complex bouquet, with a faultless marriage of fruit and subtle oak. The palate, like the bouquet, is driven by the complex, ripe gooseberry and passionfruit flavours, with just a hint of spicy oak in support. Has all the length one could wish for. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a voluminous, ripe and complex bouquet, with a faultless marriage of fruit and subtle oak. The palate, like the bouquet, is driven by the complex, ripe gooseberry and passionfruit flavours, with just a hint of spicy oak in support. Has all the length one could wish for.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 VidalP Estate Range replaces the old Private Bin range. From the 1997 vintage the words lightly oaked were added to the label. The 96 was a wine which did extremely well at the 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition, showing Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc to maximum advantage. Perhaps also a tribute to one of the few viticulturists in the world to have a Master of Wine degree Steve Smith. R Drink nowS 1996U Poached scallopsX 3005Z 10/7/98a Hawke s Bay Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _!Vidal Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc Vidal Estate Hawke s Bay 10/7/98 Vidal Estate F[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; quite intense passionfruit and gooseberry aromas in soft Hawke's Bay style supported by light spicy oak. The palate shows more of those passionfruit and gooseberry flavours in a soft cushion; all in all, a flavoursome Hawke's Bay version of Sauvignon Blanc. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; quite intense passionfruit and gooseberry aromas in soft Hawke's Bay style supported by light spicy oak. The palate shows more of those passionfruit and gooseberry flavours in a soft cushion; all in all, a flavoursome Hawke's Bay version of Sauvignon Blanc.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Villa MariaP Keeping up with the veritable cascade of Sauvignon Blanc labels from Villa Maria is no easy task. This wine sits alongside the Clifford Bay, and is essentially a regional selection, coming as it does from three Marlborough vineyards. This wine, incidentally, used to be labelled 'Reserve Sauvignon Blanc' and, for the record, part is barrel-fermented, although the oak makes relatively little impact. The 97 was a winner of three trophies at the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition inclB$uding Best White Table Wine of Show. R Drink nowS 1996U Smoked haddockX 3007Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Wairau Valley Reserve Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _1Villa Maria Wairau Valley Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Villa Maria $16-20 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Villa Maria [5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; avoluminous, perfumed bouquet is driven by passionfruit and gooseberry fruit aromas, with a mix of passionfruit, gooseberry and more grassy characters on the long palate. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; avoluminous, perfumed bouquet is driven by passionfruit and gooseberry fruit aromas, with a mix of passionfruit, gooseberry and more grassy characters on the long palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Giesen EstateP In recent years Giesen has established its own vineyards in Marlborough, and this wine now comes from its Dillon's Point Vineyard. In typical Giesen fashion, it is also fermented dry, using partial skin contact and extended lees contact to add both complexity and balance. R Drink nowS Full-flavoured Asian seafoodX 3009Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _)Giesen Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Giesen Estate $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Giesen Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; highly aromatic and tangy gooseberry fruit, with faintly minerally undertones, leads into a fresh, well-balanced stylish wine on the palate, with lingering gooseberry and herb flavours. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; highly aromatic and tangy gooseberry fruit, with faintly minerally undertones, leads into a fresh, well-balanced stylish wine on the palate, with lingering gooseberry and herb flavours.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 HoughtonP 15.99 The Crofters range of wines was first released in 1996. The name comes from the historic Houghton homestead built in 1863 by Dr John Fergusson and which resembles a Scottish crofters farmhouse. This particular wine is sourced from the Margaret River and Frankland regions; a blend of 50% Semillon and 50% Sauvignon Blanc, with the Semillon component barrel-fermented in new French oak and given three months lees contact. R Drink nowS Lemon chickenX 3010Z 14/7/98a Swan District Crofters Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _*Houghton Crofters Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Houghton $11-15 Swan Valley 14/7/98 Houghton 8[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with passionfruit and a touch of gooseberry augmented by light spicy oak. The palate is neither long nor particularly intense, but is clean, with pleasant, nicely balanced fruit and oak flavours. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with passionfruit and a touch of gooseberry augmented by light spicy oak. The palate is neither long nor particularly intense, but is clean, with pleasant, nicely balanced fruit and oak flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 HoughtonP 21.99 A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot drawn from the Margaret and Frankland River regions, but with no percentages specified in either instance. The wine is matured for 16 months in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak barriques, and the inaugural release (from the 1994 vintage) won three gold medals, the 95 following in its footsteps with a gold medal at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show. Up to 7 yearsS 1995U KangarooX 3011Z 14/7/98a Swan District Crofters Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _!Houghton Crofters Cabernet Merlot Houghton $21-25 Swan Valley 14/7/98 Houghton [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; there is attractive blackberry fruit on the quite intense and complex bouquet also showing lots of sweet oak. Youthful and fresh in the mouth, with cassis and mint fruit together with soft tannins. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; there is attractive blackberry fruit on the quite intense and complex bouquet also showing lots of sweet oak. Youthful and fresh in the mouth, with cassis and mint fruit together with soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 SkillogaleeP 24.50 The hillside vineyards of Skillogalee, now over 20 years old, should by rights produce very concentrated and powerful red wines. The 95 vintage of this wine shows all of the power and concentration one expects. The 96 is a multiple gold medal winner (Rutherglen and Brisbane). R 2-9 yearsS 1995U Rich gameX 3013Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Skillogalee Shiraz Skillogalee $21-25 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Skillogalee [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a ripe, sweet bouquet with powerful minty berry fruit is followed by an extremely sweet and ripe palate with mint and black cherry fruit. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a ripe, sweet bouquet with powerful minty berry fruit is followed by an extremely sweet and ripe palate with mint and black cherry fruit. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 TollanaP Only three vintages of this wine have been so far released: 93 and 95. The policy is that it will only be released in exceptional years and with an appropriate record of success in wine shows. The wine is held for extra bottle maturation prior to release; thus the 93 was released in November 1996, with a show record of one trophy, three gold, three silver and five bronze medals. Up to 7 yearsS 1993U Roast beefX 3015Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Show Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Tollana Show Reserve Shiraz Tollana $21-25 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Tollana <[4wine glasses] 1995 Full red-purple; much more concentrated than the varietal Shiraz Bin TR16, with abundant black cherry and blackberry fruit. The palate likewise offers another dimension of flavour and concentration, with dark cherry, plum and berry fruit leading the way, and well-balanced oak. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; much more concentrated than the varietal Shiraz Bin TR16, with abundant black cherry and blackberry fruit. The palate likewise offers another dimension of flavour and concentration, with dark cherry, plum and berry fruit leading the way, and well-balanced oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Briar RidgeP Judging by the alcohol disclosed on the label, the title Early Harvest Semillon might have been better phrased Traditional Harvest . A little over 11 degrees, it is in fact a full degree above the average alcohol of the great Lindemans Semillons of the 1950s and 1960s. Semillon reaches flavour ripeness at far lower sugar levels in the Hunter Valley than in any other part of Australia, and is also extremely susceptible to the impact of vintage rain (a common occurrence) so is almost invB ariably picked early Up to 5 yearsS 1996U Crab or shellfishX 3017Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Early Harvest Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _"Briar Ridge Early Harvest Semillon Briar Ridge $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Briar Ridge o[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a clean bouquet, of medium to full intensity with pleasant lemony fruit leads into a generously flavoured, honey and lemon-accented palate. In many ways belies the early harvest tag; not only does it taste ripe, but it has 11 degrees alcohol, which is reasonably high for Semillon from the Hunter. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a clean bouquet, of medium to full intensity with pleasant lemony fruit leads into a generously flavoured, honey and lemon-accented palate. In many ways belies the early harvest tag; not only does it taste ripe, but it has 11 degrees alcohol, which is reasonably high for Semillon from the Hunter.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Katnook EstateP The first vintage (1991) was released in February 1997, having been launched at Katnook s centenary celebrations in December of the preceding year. One hundred per cent Cabernet Sauvignon matured in new French oak barriques for 30 months, and then given an additional three years bottle age before release, it is produced in tiny quantities and represents the best Katnook is able to produce. Up to 12 yearsS 1991U Yearling beefX 3019Z 14/7/98a Coonawarra Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _)Katnook Estate Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon Katnook Estate Coonawarra 14/7/98 Katnook Estate [5wine glasses] 1992 Medium to full red-purple; the complex, elegant bouquet shows intense red berry and cedar aromas. A delicious wine on the palate, with red berry/cassis fruit to open, then with fine, dusty tannins running right through to the finish. Food-style. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1992 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the complex, elegant bouquet shows intense red berry and cedar aromas. A delicious wine on the palate, with red berry/cassis fruit to open, then with fine, dusty tannins running right through to the finish. Food-style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 CorioleP 2Only rarely does Chenin Blanc produce memorable wine outside its ancestral home of the Loire Valley, France. High-yielding and amenable, it is useful in blends and in casks. Here and there, it does rather better than that; this wine, produced from 1.7 hectares of estate plantings is a pretty good example. R Drink nowS 1996U Seafood pastaX 3020Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Chenin Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Coriole Chenin Blanc Coriole $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Coriole "[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet has positive, clear fruit salad varietal character with some apple aromas which come through in quite pronounced fashion on the palate, along with more tropical fruit. Far more flavour than the average Chenin Blanc. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet has positive, clear fruit salad varietal character with some apple aromas which come through in quite pronounced fashion on the palate, along with more tropical fruit. Far more flavour than the average Chenin Blanc. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 CorioleP In my halcyon days as a university student at St Paul s College, Sydney, the Lalla Rookh was the local (and frequently visited) pub. Only now do I learn the name has an incredibly complicated history, going back to a mythical Indian princess, a steeplechaser ridden by Adam Lindsay Gordon, a sailing ship, the name of one of the Lloyd family vineyards, and a hybrid flower. Behind all this is a blend of 88% Grenache and 12% Shiraz matured for 12 months in a mix of one and two-year-old French B oak barrels. 1995U Rich casseroleX 3021Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Lalla Rookh Grenache Shiraz Shiraz Blends Z Australia _#Coriole Lalla Rookh Grenache Shiraz Coriole $16-20 17.01 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Coriole 6[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a richly luscious bouquet with blackberry, plum, spice and vanilla aromas is followed by a concentrated and powerful palate with the same flavours together with a dusting of dark chocolate. There are sufficient tannins for the wine to age well. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a richly luscious bouquet with blackberry, plum, spice and vanilla aromas is followed by a concentrated and powerful palate with the same flavours together with a dusting of dark chocolate. There are sufficient tannins for the wine to age well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 CorioleP nSecond in the Coriole hierarchy after the scarce Lloyd Shiraz, but still very much a super-premium wine. Typically made from roughly equal quantities of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a dash of Cabernet Franc (in 1995 45% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc) it is a distinguished wine, utterly different from the others in the Coriole stable. Up to 5 yearsS 1994U Mature cheddarX 3022Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Mary Kathleen Cabernet Blend Cabernet Blends Z Australia _$Coriole Mary Kathleen Cabernet Blend Coriole $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Coriole ![4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a smooth but powerful bouquet with classic dusty cabernet fruit is somewhat unexpectedly followed by a remarkably sweet and luscious palate with masses of dark chocolate and blackberry fruit surrounded by soft, lingering tannins. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a smooth but powerful bouquet with classic dusty cabernet fruit is somewhat unexpectedly followed by a remarkably sweet and luscious palate with masses of dark chocolate and blackberry fruit surrounded by soft, lingering tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 ArenbergP Part of a veritable cascade of new labels which tumbled out from d Arenberg in the mid-1990s, and a decidedly strange name for the super-premium flagship of the winery. The name comes from a fungal disease (phomopsis viticola) which attacks vines in many parts of the world, and which can cause one half (or one side) of the vine to die, leaving the other side unaffected (at least for the time being). The older the vines, the more likely the incidence of attack. So much for the name, the winB e itself can be absolutely outstanding, bringing together concentrated fruit with 12-18 months maturation in new American oak barriques. 1994U Marinated beefX 3023Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Dead Arm Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz Arenberg $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Arenberg 1[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; the bouquet is spotlessly clean, with concentrated dark cherry and dark chocolate fruit, together with plenty of new oak. A rich and concentrated wine on the palate with more of that dark chocolate fruit, finishing with powerful but ripe tannins. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet is spotlessly clean, with concentrated dark cherry and dark chocolate fruit, together with plenty of new oak. A rich and concentrated wine on the palate with more of that dark chocolate fruit, finishing with powerful but ripe tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 ArenbergP An intermittent release from d Arenberg over the years, but likely to become a permanent part of the scene in the future, being made in both 1994 and 1995. Typically a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Shiraz, it is not as the name might suggest made up of the pressings component of the various Grenache and Shiraz blends and wines made by d Arenberg. In other words, it contains the usual mix of free-run and pressings material; to the extent it has extra weight, it comes from the late harveB]sting, with the ripest components nearing 16 baum terrorising stuff for the uninitiated. 1995U Leave it in the cellarX 3026Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Ironstone Pressings Shiraz Blends Z Australia Arenberg Ironstone Pressings Arenberg $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Arenberg [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; clean, chocolatey/minty/earthy/red cherry aromas with a nice touch of oak on the bouquet. The palate is rich, full and dense, with dusty tannins running throughout, before drying off slightly on the finish. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; clean, chocolatey/minty/earthy/red cherry aromas with a nice touch of oak on the bouquet. The palate is rich, full and dense, with dusty tannins running throughout, before drying off slightly on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 ArenbergP As with all of the d Arenberg wines, if you get to read the back label, these background notes will be as superfluous as they are brief. Suffice it to say that grenache has always been a major part of the d Arenberg red wine production, and the best parcels of old vine grenache are used to produce the wine. It is kept in tank and in large wood for part of the time, before spending six months in new and old American oak barriques, thus putting the major emphasis on the luscious fruit whicB h is as it should be. 1995U Ragout of venisonX 3027Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale The Custodian Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Arenberg The Custodian Grenache Arenberg $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Arenberg :[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a fragrant, juicy style, clean, with a hint of mint and minimal oak on the bouquet; the palate is very strongly juicy and jammy, typical of one of the faces of grenache, but slightly unformed and, early in its life, seems to have been rushed into bottle. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a fragrant, juicy style, clean, with a hint of mint and minimal oak on the bouquet; the palate is very strongly juicy and jammy, typical of one of the faces of grenache, but slightly unformed and, early in its life, seems to have been rushed into bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 SeaviewP The super-premium Edwards & Chaffey range, introduced in the early 1990s, honours the founders of Seaview, F H Edwards and W B Chaffey. The Chardonnay is 100% barrel-fermented in a mix of new, one and two-year-old French oak barriques, and undergoes malolactic fermentation. Since 1994 it has been unfiltered, a fact prominently displayed on the label. The 95 and 96 wines were prolific gold medal (and trophy) winners; each year seems to bring more refinement to the style. 1996U Breast of turkeyX 3032Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Edwards & Chaffey Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Seaview Edwards & Chaffey Chardonnay Seaview $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Seaview [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet with the full array of winemaking techniques coming through to best advantage: nutty malolactic fermentation influences, good fruit weight and well-balanced and integrated oak. The palate is in distinctive style with full-on barrel ferment and malolactic fermentation influences, but rich fruit there to support those winemaking inputs. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet with the full array of winemaking techniques coming through to best advantage: nutty malolactic fermentation influences, good fruit weight and well-balanced and integrated oak. The palate is in distinctive style with full-on barrel ferment and malolactic fermentation influences, but rich fruit there to support those winemaking inputs.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Wirra WirraP zRSW Shiraz is named after Robert Strangways Wigley, who founded Wirra Wirra in 1894. While The Angelus has brought much recognition to Wirra Wirra, it is arguable that, viewed over 1994 and 1995, RSW Shiraz is its best wine. In both vintages it is a beautifully elegant, constructed and structured wine, showing a particular sensitive use of French (80%) and American (20%) oak. 1995U Smoked beefX 3037Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Wirra Wirra RSW Shiraz Wirra Wirra $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Wirra Wirra [5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; ripe but not heavy fruit in the dark plum/black cherry spectrum with evident but perfectly integrated and balanced oak on the bouquet. The palate is beautifully balanced, with a fine array of dark berry fruits, finishing with fine, silky tannins. Seduction in a red wine glass which invites you to have the second, the third, and the fourth glass. Retasted several times towards the end of 1997; the wine gets better and better. RATING: 97 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; ripe but not heavy fruit in the dark plum/black cherry spectrum with evident but perfectly integrated and balanced oak on the bouquet. The palate is beautifully balanced, with a fine array of dark berry fruits, finishing with fine, silky tannins. Seduction in a red wine glass which invites you to have the second, the third, and the fourth glass. Retasted several times towards the end of 1997; the wine gets better and better.<t9h119.9997z7 (B3f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">97 Rosemount EstateP The name comes from the 1852 Hunter Valley homestead of the Oatley family, founders of the Rosemount Estate. Tastings of all the wines so far released ( 89 to 94) have shown an incredible consistency of style, with the 100-year-old vines at Rosemount s Ryecroft Vineyard in McLaren Vale at the heart of the wine. Less than 2000 cases are made each year, 50% being exported to the United States. The 95 won three trophies at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show including the Len Evans TrophB y for Best Table Wine of Show. 15-20 yearsS! 1994U Char-grilled rumpX 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Balmoral Syrah Shiraz Z Australia Rosemount Estate Balmoral Syrah Rosemount Estate (McLaren Vale) $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Rosemount Estate (McLaren Vale) [5wine glasses] 1995 Deep red-purple; an extremely powerful, concentrated and rich bouquet leads into an opulently layered palate with a range of black cherry and blackberry fruit, ample tannins and lush oak in support. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Deep red-purple; an extremely powerful, concentrated and rich bouquet leads into an opulently layered palate with a range of black cherry and blackberry fruit, ample tannins and lush oak in support.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Rosemount EstateP Grenache (typically 50%), Shiraz (typically 40%) and Mourvedre (typically 10%) grapes are selected from old, low-yielding vines drawn from vineyards across McLaren Vale, and are separately fermented in a mix of traditional open fermenters and vinomatics (rotary fermenters). The wines are matured for 18 months in a mix of new and used American oak, and a final blend decision taken shortly prior to bottling, the blend components varying slightly according to the outcome of vintage. Both the B 94 and 95 wines add lustre to the cornucopia of Rh ne-style wines from McLaren Vale. The 95 received the Chairman's Trophy at the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition. Up to 10 yearsS 1995U Beef with olivesX 3038Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Shiraz Blends Z Australia Rosemount Estate GSM Rosemount Estate (McLaren Vale) $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Rosemount Estate (McLaren Vale) [5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the wine follows very closely in the track and style of the 94, with a powerful and complex briary/woodsy bouquet leading on to a palate full of character and with complex flavour components avoiding the jammy/berry/confection notes which overripe grenache can provide. Retasted end 1997, fulfilling all its early promise. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the wine follows very closely in the track and style of the 94, with a powerful and complex briary/woodsy bouquet leading on to a palate full of character and with complex flavour components avoiding the jammy/berry/confection notes which overripe grenache can provide. Retasted end 1997, fulfilling all its early promise.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Wirilda CreekP The top wine for Wirilda Creek, a very limited barrel selection sold only through cellar door. It is, without question, a superior wine to the varietal release.R 2-7 yearsS 1994U Steak and kidney pieX 3040Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Wirilda Creek Rare Shiraz Wirilda Creek $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Wirilda Creek [3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, clean, but tending simple. There is pleasant moderately ripe berry fruit on a straightforward palate. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, clean, but tending simple. There is pleasant moderately ripe berry fruit on a straightforward palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 PirramimmaP 21.50 Petit verdot is the least known of the principal Bordeaux red varieties, and is of declining importance there, partly because of difficulties with cropping, and partly because it ripens very late in the season. There is no problem with ripening in McLaren Vale (or in most regions of Australia, for that matter) but it is even rarer here than in Bordeaux. Amazing, but in a sense typically for Pirramimma, it planted petit verdot way back in 1983, and is the source for a number of other makersB in the region. To my knowledge, this is the only varietal Petit Verdot commercially marketed in Australia. The 95 won a well-deserved gold medal at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show. 1994U Grilled lamb chopsX 3045Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Petit Verdot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Pirramimma Petit Verdot Pirramimma $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Pirramimma ;[5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and fragrant with subtle oak, with hints of cedar and tobacco. The palate is firm and fine, with dark berry fruits, and a touch of regional chocolate. The outstanding feature of the wine is its structure built around fine, long tannins. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and fragrant with subtle oak, with hints of cedar and tobacco. The palate is firm and fine, with dark berry fruits, and a touch of regional chocolate. The outstanding feature of the wine is its structure built around fine, long tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 AlkoomiP As with all of the Alkoomi wines, produced from estate-grown fruit. Yet another example of the symbiotic relationship between Mount Barker and Riesling, for it is usually an excellent wine.S 1996U SaladX 3047Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Alkoomi Riesling Alkoomi $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Alkoomi 0[4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the aromas are clean, light and crisp, in the herbal/lemon spectrum, and none of the passionfruit which is present in many of the region's Rieslings in recent years. The palate is tight and toasty; not a lot of flesh there now, but bred to stay. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the aromas are clean, light and crisp, in the herbal/lemon spectrum, and none of the passionfruit which is present in many of the region's Rieslings in recent years. The palate is tight and toasty; not a lot of flesh there now, but bred to stay.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 N AuldstoneP Produced from 6 hectares of estate shiraz, and matured in a mix of French and American oak. Shows all of the richness one expects from this marvellous red wine region near Lake Mokoan. S 1994U Rich red meat dishesX 3050Z 14/7/98a Glenrowan Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Auldstone Shiraz c Auldstone $11-15 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 % Auldstone [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity with a mix of spice, mint, leaf and red berry, with only the lightest touch of oak. An attractive spicy fruit-driven style on the palate, finishing with soft tannins. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity with a mix of spice, mint, leaf and red berry, with only the lightest touch of oak. An attractive spicy fruit-driven style on the palate, finishing with soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Bald MountainP An estate-grown wine which achieved considerable show success. The two components are picked at the same time and fermented together. The 94, which won a gold medal at the Royal Brisbane Wine Show (in open classes, not Queensland classes), and silvers at Adelaide and Perth (together with a swag of bronze medals) has achieved a higher level of success than any other Queensland-grown red wine in national wine shows. However, there will be no further release until the 1999 vintage, as the caBCbernet vines had to be replanted after 1994 due to leaf roll virus. 1993U Lamb kebabsX 3051Z 14/7/98a Granite Belt Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia Bald Mountain Shiraz Cabernet Bald Mountain $16-20 Granite Belt 14/7/98 Bald Mountain $[4wine glasses] 1994 Light to medium red-purple; a quite fragrant bouquet with a mix of minty and sweeter berry aromas is followed by a palate with greater weight and richness than the bouquet suggests, fleshed out by a hint of sweet vanilla oak and rounded, fluffy tannins. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-purple; a quite fragrant bouquet with a mix of minty and sweeter berry aromas is followed by a palate with greater weight and richness than the bouquet suggests, fleshed out by a hint of sweet vanilla oak and rounded, fluffy tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 N BalgownieP The best known of the Balgownie wines in the height of its glory days of the mid-1970s, partly because there were so few small-winemaker Cabernet Sauvignons around at the time. After a period in the wilderness, has bounced back to top form.S 1994U Beef casseroleX 3052Z 14/7/98a Bendigo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _#Balgownie Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Balgownie Estate $21-25 Bendigo 14/7/98 Balgownie Estate [4wine glasses] 1995 Dense red-purple; the bouquet, like the colour, is dense, with dark chocolate, earth and berry fruit. A somewhat rustic wine on the palate, once again powerful and dense, with earthy/chocolatey flavours. Masses of character and tannins. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet, like the colour, is dense, with dark chocolate, earth and berry fruit. A somewhat rustic wine on the palate, once again powerful and dense, with earthy/chocolatey flavours. Masses of character and tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Blue Pyrenees EstateP 20Q}Introduced in the early 1990s as part of the move towards greater reliance on table wine. Produced from estate-grown grapes. R Now-2 yearsS 1995U Veal scaloppineX 3056Z 14/7/98a Pyrenees Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Blue Pyrenees Estate Chardonnay Blue Pyrenees Estate $16-20 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Blue Pyrenees Estate 4[3wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the oak is quite dominant on the bouquet but is of good quality, and there is gentle cashew/melon fruit underneath. On the palate the crisp fruit stands up to the oak, with good length and aftertaste. Trembled on the brink of an even higher rating. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the oak is quite dominant on the bouquet but is of good quality, and there is gentle cashew/melon fruit underneath. On the palate the crisp fruit stands up to the oak, with good length and aftertaste. Trembled on the brink of an even higher rating.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Charles MeltonP 29.90Q Produced from small patches of old low-yielding shiraz scattered across the Barossa Valley, but also showing the sophisticated use of American oak to produce a very modern style.S 1995U Spiced lambX 3062Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Charles Melton Shiraz Charles Melton $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Charles Melton [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; scented, sweetly ripe, juicy cherry fruit aromas are followed by a ripe but lively palate with black cherry, blackberry and mint fruit; soft tannins and subtle oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; scented, sweetly ripe, juicy cherry fruit aromas are followed by a ripe but lively palate with black cherry, blackberry and mint fruit; soft tannins and subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Cockfighter s GhostP 15.45 Made in the traditional Hunter fashion, unoaked and begging to be given time in bottle. The 96 won a silver medal at the highly competitive Hunter Valley Wine Show in 1996, the 97 being a creditable follow-on in a difficult vintage.S 1996U Fresh asparagusX 3065Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Cockfighter s Ghost Semillon Cockfighter s Ghost Vineyard $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Cockfighter s Ghost Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is light and crisp, with mineral and lemon aromas, the palate crisp, clean,tangy and lively, with a light but pure finish. Could conceivably become a handsome wine with age. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is light and crisp, with mineral and lemon aromas, the palate crisp, clean,tangy and lively, with a light but pure finish. Could conceivably become a handsome wine with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Coolangatta EstateP An early-ripening variety, typically picked at the end of February (chardonnay follows in March) which is a distinct advantage in a climate in which summer rainfall always poses a threat. It is no doubt for the same reason that chambourcin has been planted, and likewise does well. R Drink nowS 1996U PastaX 3066Z 14/7/98a Shoalhaven Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Coolangatta Estate Verdelho Coolangatta Estate $11-15 South Coast Zone 14/7/98 Coolangatta Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a quite full bouquet with yellow peach, banana and tropical fruit aromas. The palate has abundant, soft, tropical fruit running through to the mid-palate, although it does lighten off slightly on the finish. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a quite full bouquet with yellow peach, banana and tropical fruit aromas. The palate has abundant, soft, tropical fruit running through to the mid-palate, although it does lighten off slightly on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Cowra EstateP As the name suggests, a Bordeaux-blend, which offers a pretty good value at the price. Winner of the Riedel Crystal Trophy for Best Lighter Bodied Dry Red Table Wine of Show at the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition, receiving strong support from the overseas judges. 1995U LasagneX 3067Z 14/7/98 Cowra N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Cowra Estate Cabernets Cowra Estate $11-15 Cowra 14/7/98 Cowra Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with minty/earthy fruit supported by a touch of vanilla oak. A fairly light but clean palate, with pleasant minty berry fruit, just a touch of oak and soft tannins. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with minty/earthy fruit supported by a touch of vanilla oak. A fairly light but clean palate, with pleasant minty berry fruit, just a touch of oak and soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 De BortoliP Achieved immediate fame for De Bortoli when it swept all before it at the 1996 Adelaide Wine Show. This new range, named after the historic Gulf Station on the outskirts of Yarra Glen, shows the winemaking skills of Stephen Webber to full advantage. It also shows just what can be achieved with American oak, a technique previously employed to full advantage by Yarra Ridge. The 96 vintage followed in the path of the 95, winning a gold medal at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show, the 97 repeating tB he success in 1998. 1995U YabbiesX 3069Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Gulf Station Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"De Bortoli Gulf Station Chardonnay De Bortoli (Victoria) $16-20 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 De Bortoli (Victoria) [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth, with well-balanced and integrated oak, ranging from earthy mineral characters through to melon and cashew. A stylish palate with attractive melon fruit has a touch of almost biscuity oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth, with well-balanced and integrated oak, ranging from earthy mineral characters through to melon and cashew. A stylish palate with attractive melon fruit has a touch of almost biscuity oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Devil s LairP It is difficult to know whether the cleverness of the label and the marketing exceeds the quality of the wine, or vice versa. Both are excellent, the wine is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc while the label features the fifth leg from the Aboriginal drawing on the main label, and comes replete with the Devil s Lair Email address imprinted on the cork. Understandably, became the darling of the smart caf set in 1996. R Drink nowS 1996U Brasserie foodX 3071Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Fifth Leg Dry White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _ Devil s Lair Fifth Leg Dry White Devil's Lair $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Devil's Lair C[4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a clean bouquet of medium intensity with smooth, gently ripe fruit salad aromas, the Chardonnay influence rounding off the other components. On the palate, too, the Chardonnay influence is to the fore with rounded melon fruit balanced by hints of citrus and lemon. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a clean bouquet of medium intensity with smooth, gently ripe fruit salad aromas, the Chardonnay influence rounding off the other components. On the palate, too, the Chardonnay influence is to the fore with rounded melon fruit balanced by hints of citrus and lemon.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Eyton-on-YarraP 19.50 zProduced from estate-grown fruit; Eyton-on-Yarra draws on two substantial vineyards, one around the winery and the other some distance away on flatter country closer to the Yarra River. Much of the grape production has been sold to others, with the best reserved for the Eyton-on-Yarra label. The wine spends 18 months in French oak and is given partial malolactic fermentation. 1994U Smoked salmon pastaX 3075Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Eyton-on-Yarra Chardonnay Eyton-on-Yarra $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Eyton-on-Yarra m[3wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow, with just a touch of green; the bouquet is quite solid, with melon and fig fruit, together with subtle oak, but the palate is rather heavy and oaky, with cosmetic overtones to the fruit, lacking the delicacy of the 95. Conceivably going through a phase of its development and may well improve with age. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow, with just a touch of green; the bouquet is quite solid, with melon and fig fruit, together with subtle oak, but the palate is rather heavy and oaky, with cosmetic overtones to the fruit, lacking the delicacy of the 95. Conceivably going through a phase of its development and may well improve with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 GoundreyP 16QrOne of the thundering herd of Unwooded Chardonnays, and reasonably typical of what one can expect from the style. R Drink nowS 1996U Light seafood 3079Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Goundrey Unwooded Chardonnay Goundrey $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Goundrey [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium intensity with a mix of melon, white peach and citrus fruit repeated on the clean, relatively crisp palate, likewise of medium weight. Simple and straightforward. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium intensity with a mix of melon, white peach and citrus fruit repeated on the clean, relatively crisp palate, likewise of medium weight. Simple and straightforward.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Grant BurgeP 41.50 Introduced in 1993 as a companion to Meshach. A gold medal winner at both the Melbourne and Barossa Valley Wine Shows, and made in the baroque oaky style, but with a fair degree of fruit to carry that oak.S 1993U Beef BordelaiseX 3081Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Shadrach Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _'Grant Burge Shadrach Cabernet Sauvignon Grant Burge $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Grant Burge "[3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with a mix of briary/earthy fruit and oak aromas. On the palate there are some slightly sweeter notes to flesh out the predominantly earthy/oaky flavours; lacks density, but is well-enough made. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with a mix of briary/earthy fruit and oak aromas. On the palate there are some slightly sweeter notes to flesh out the predominantly earthy/oaky flavours; lacks density, but is well-enough made.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 HeggiesP 23QTOften lean and lacking fruit richness, the Heggies Merlot came into its own in 1993.S 1993U Rack of vealX 3084Z 14/7/98a Eden Valley Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Heggies Merlot Heggies Vineyard $21-25 Eden Valley 14/7/98 Heggies Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite strong, with earthy, berry and blackberry fruit and, all in all, a lot of presence. The palate opens up with sweet, ripe fruit but closes with somewhat aggressive tannins. A varietal conundrum. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite strong, with earthy, berry and blackberry fruit and, all in all, a lot of presence. The palate opens up with sweet, ripe fruit but closes with somewhat aggressive tannins. A varietal conundrum.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 IngoldbyP A very cleverly made wine, sourced entirely from contract-grown fruit in McLaren Vale. It is largely cold fermented in stainless steel, and then transferred to new French and American oak hogsheads at 5 baum to finish the fermentation. A small proportion of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation, and the wine is usually bottled six months after vintage. All in all, very clever and effective winemaking, including the use of oak. R Drink nowS 1996U Crab with mayonnaiseX 3086Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Ingoldby Chardonnay Ingoldby $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Ingoldby X[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a harmonious and smooth bouquet with peach, melon and fig fruit of medium to full intensity supported by subtle oak. The palate is richly flavoured with excellent fruit weight and intensity, and that perfectly integrated oak. Has length; exceptional value for money, as was the 96. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a harmonious and smooth bouquet with peach, melon and fig fruit of medium to full intensity supported by subtle oak. The palate is richly flavoured with excellent fruit weight and intensity, and that perfectly integrated oak. Has length; exceptional value for money, as was the 96.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Laurel BankP Produced from half a hectare of estate plantings. 1995 was not a great year for Pinot Noir in Tasmania, but the wine rose above the limitations of the vintage.S Tasmanian venisonX 3091Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Laurel Bank Pinot Noir Laurel Bank $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Laurel Bank S[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Fresh red-purple colour; there are lifted but clean strawberry/spicy/leafy/earthy fruit aromas on the bouquet, supported by just a hint of oak. The palate is quite potent, with some tangy/stemmy/leafy characters which tend to attack somewhat, but certainly make for an interesting taste experience. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Fresh red-purple colour; there are lifted but clean strawberry/spicy/leafy/earthy fruit aromas on the bouquet, supported by just a hint of oak. The palate is quite potent, with some tangy/stemmy/leafy characters which tend to attack somewhat, but certainly make for an interesting taste experience.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Leo BuringP 10.95 First introduced in 1996 as part of the controversial new split label range of Leo Buring. Perhaps even more controversial was its success at the 1996 Royal Adelaide Wine Show, where it won the Wine Resources Trophy for Best Dry White Table Wine in Class 31 (and of course a gold medal). Made in a traditional style without the use of oak, and by rights should develop very well over the medium term. The 97 returned to earth, though is a pleasant commercial wine. 1996U Veal in white wine sauceX 3093Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Clare Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _ Leo Buring Clare Valley Semillon Leo Buring e under $10 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Leo Buring [3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a rich and full bouquet with faintly biscuity/burnt aromas, reminiscent of the Hunter Valley. The palate, too, has some biscuity flavours sometimes encountered in the Hunter. Strange. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a rich and full bouquet with faintly biscuity/burnt aromas, reminiscent of the Hunter Valley. The palate, too, has some biscuity flavours sometimes encountered in the Hunter. Strange.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Lyre Bird HillP A testament to the all-round winemaking skills of Owen Schmidt, and particularly good given the limitations inherent in the tiny production. S 1996U ScallopsX 3096Z 14/7/98a Gippsland Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Lyre Bird Hill Riesling Lyre Bird Hill $11-15 r Gippsland 14/7/98 Lyre Bird Hill [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a rich and full bouquet with pastille lime fruit aromas, and a slightly soapy edge. The palate is similarly rich and full flavoured, inevitably cloying slightly on the finish. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a rich and full bouquet with pastille lime fruit aromas, and a slightly soapy edge. The palate is similarly rich and full flavoured, inevitably cloying slightly on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Main RidgeP 6The cold-climate Main Ridge vineyard does peculiar things to Pinot Noir, sometimes producing wines with spicy pepper characteristics which makes them look for all the world like light-bodied Shiraz. In other years the flavours are more towards the stalky/tobacco end; never does the wine become jammy or heavy. R Drink nowS 1995U Grilled salmonX 3097Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula M Half Acre Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Main Ridge Half Acre Pinot Noir Main Ridge Estate $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Main Ridge Estate ?[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; while there is the hallmark leafy/spicy/slippery/earthy fruit aromas, they are less extreme than in some years. The palate is not luscious, but has quite good length, with tight earthy/sappy/foresty/tobacco leaf nuances. Unequivocally cool-climate Pinot Noir. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; while there is the hallmark leafy/spicy/slippery/earthy fruit aromas, they are less extreme than in some years. The palate is not luscious, but has quite good length, with tight earthy/sappy/foresty/tobacco leaf nuances. Unequivocally cool-climate Pinot Noir.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 MirandaP 23.95Q Sourced from old, low-yielding Barossa Valley vines via Miranda s Barossa Valley winery, Rovalley. I find the oak a little assertive, but others will have no such difficulty.S 1993U LasagneX 3099Z 14/7/98a Riverina Show Reserve Old Vine Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _$Miranda Show Reserve Old Vine Shiraz Miranda $21-25 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Miranda "[3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is soft, dominated by vanilla oak, but with some chocolatey/earthy fruit. The palate is likewise soft, likewise with masses of vanilla oak and soft, fluffy tannins. Rather like chewing through a bar of milk chocolate. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is soft, dominated by vanilla oak, but with some chocolatey/earthy fruit. The palate is likewise soft, likewise with masses of vanilla oak and soft, fluffy tannins. Rather like chewing through a bar of milk chocolate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 MitchellP BIntroduced in 1996 and replaced the former Barrel Fermented Semillon. As with its predecessor, an each-way drinking style, good when young, but even better with some age. The grapes are grown by the Pulford, Haig and Howard families, and the wine is invested with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc and just a touch of French oak. 1996U Sugar-cured tunaX 3100Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley The Growers Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Mitchell The Growers Semillon Mitchell $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Mitchell [4wine glasses] 1997 Glowing medium yellow-green; a clean, rich and full bouquet, tangy yet sweet, with subtle oak is followed by a lively wine on the palate, showing excellent tangy, mouthfilling fruit and again just the faintest touch of oak. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Glowing medium yellow-green; a clean, rich and full bouquet, tangy yet sweet, with subtle oak is followed by a lively wine on the palate, showing excellent tangy, mouthfilling fruit and again just the faintest touch of oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 MontroseP 14.95Q While it has often been the Montrose Chardonnays to catch the eye, the Montrose reds have always been honest, full-flavoured wines, and in a sense more typical of the district. S 1994U Beef in black bean sauceX 3101Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Montrose Cabernet Sauvignon Montrose $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 Montrose R[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full, bright red-purple; the solid berry fruit, with earthy varietal undertones, comes through on the robust palate with strong blackcurrant fruit. While the wine has lots of flavour and presence, the slightly raw, planky oak does not do the underlying quality of the fruit full justice. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full, bright red-purple; the solid berry fruit, with earthy varietal undertones, comes through on the robust palate with strong blackcurrant fruit. While the wine has lots of flavour and presence, the slightly raw, planky oak does not do the underlying quality of the fruit full justice.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 NormansP Part of mysteriously labelled mid-range bin series with numbers which appear to have no particular meaning other than the subliminal suggestion of limited production. The wines represent good value for money, with the 96 Chardonnay particularly successful, the 97 less so. R Drink nowS 1996U Pork chopsX 3102Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Bin C207 Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Normans Bin C207 Chardonnay Normans $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Normans [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; there is some pleasant melon and peach fruit on both bouquet and palate, but rather pedestrian, green oak does the wine no particular favours. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; there is some pleasant melon and peach fruit on both bouquet and palate, but rather pedestrian, green oak does the wine no particular favours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 NormansP How old are old vines? There is in fact no legal definition, nor any common practice or understanding of the term, except to say that the usage in France is even more elastic and questionable than it is in Australia. In the case of this wine, Normans say the vines are between 26 and 42 years old, a statement made about both the 95 and 96 vintages, which also suggests the vines eternal youth. 1995U Victorian parmesan cheeseX 3103Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Old Vine Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Normans Old Vine Shiraz Normans $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Normans 4[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite rich with dark berry and chocolate aromas with nicely judged oak in support. The palate provides attractive cherry, plum and chocolate fruit flavours of medium weight; gentle oak. Motors along on its 14 degrees alcohol. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite rich with dark berry and chocolate aromas with nicely judged oak in support. The palate provides attractive cherry, plum and chocolate fruit flavours of medium weight; gentle oak. Motors along on its 14 degrees alcohol.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 OakridgeP 35Q`The Oakridge Cabernet Sauvignons have been reliable, those with the Reserve tag particularly so.S 1994U Yarra Valley venisonX 3105Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _#Oakridge Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Oakridge Estate $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Oakridge Estate @[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is youthful, and not particularly complex, but does have attractive, fresh earthy/berry varietal fruit. The palate has slightly more structure and form than the bouquet suggests, with well-ripened cassis fruit, hints of olive and subtle oak. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is youthful, and not particularly complex, but does have attractive, fresh earthy/berry varietal fruit. The palate has slightly more structure and form than the bouquet suggests, with well-ripened cassis fruit, hints of olive and subtle oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Passing CloudsP A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot aged in predominantly new American oak. The premium wine in the Passing Clouds portfolio.S 1994U Wild duckX 3108Z 14/7/98a Bendigo Angel Blend Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Passing Clouds Angel Blend Passing Clouds $26-50 Bendigo 14/7/98 Passing Clouds `[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is concentrated, with a mix of earth, mint and berry fruit, and just a whisker of astringency. The palate is similarly powerful, with berry and mint fruit, but again suggests there is a touch of needless astringency which might have been cleaned up with a touch of copper. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is concentrated, with a mix of earth, mint and berry fruit, and just a whisker of astringency. The palate is similarly powerful, with berry and mint fruit, but again suggests there is a touch of needless astringency which might have been cleaned up with a touch of copper.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Pepper TreeP }The first fruits of the link with Parker (Coonawarra) Estate, and presumably setting a pattern for future releases. Blends of Hunter and Coonawarra red wines stretch back to the 1950s (notably the famous 1958 Mildara Hunter Coonawarra) but this is the first Hunter Coonawarra Chardonnay blend I have encountered. The 96 in fact marks the extension of the blend into three regions. 1995U BrainsX 3109Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Pepper Tree Chardonnay Pepper Tree $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Pepper Tree [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, buttery ripe bouquet leads into a smooth tropical/yellow peach-flavoured palate, supported by subtle oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, buttery ripe bouquet leads into a smooth tropical/yellow peach-flavoured palate, supported by subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Pepper TreeP ]Has rapidly become the flag-bearer for Pepper Tree, which has not hesitated to compare it (in formal comparative tastings) with the great Merlots of the world, including Chateau Petrus. Certainly hit a high spot with the much-bemedalled 96 vintage, adding to its tally with the top gold medal in the Merlot class at the 1998 Royal Sydney Wine Show. 1995U Smoked lambX 3111Z 14/7/98 Lower Hunter Valley Reserve Coonawarra Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _%Pepper Tree Reserve Coonawarra Merlot Pepper Tree Coonawarra 14/7/98 Pepper Tree g[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a scented, aromatic bouquet with sweet French oak neatly woven through the fruit. That sophisticated oak handling is very evident on the palate, which has extremely good texture, structure and mouthfeel; there is berry and mint varietal fruit, but it is the silky feel which is the major attraction. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a scented, aromatic bouquet with sweet French oak neatly woven through the fruit. That sophisticated oak handling is very evident on the palate, which has extremely good texture, structure and mouthfeel; there is berry and mint varietal fruit, but it is the silky feel which is the major attraction.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 PierroP 44.7Q A challenging, high-quality blend of the five red varieties of Bordeaux: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. A serious wine made in serious style.S 1994U Boned leg of lambX 3113Z 14/7/98a Margaret River N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Pierro Cabernets Pierro $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Pierro [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a powerful, potent bouquet with distinctive regional gravelly overtones. A similarly powerful palate, with the same depth and forceful tannins which marked the 94. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a powerful, potent bouquet with distinctive regional gravelly overtones. A similarly powerful palate, with the same depth and forceful tannins which marked the 94. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 RedmanP Introduced into the Redman range in the early 1990s, and since that time has been one of the few bright lights in the Redman stable. The 95 continues the good form of preceding years, notwithstanding the difficulties Coonawarra presented that year.S 1993U Shoulder of lambX 3115Z 14/7/98a Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Redman Cabernet Merlot Redman $21-25 Coonawarra Changed 14/7/98 Redman .[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, quite intense, with sweet red berry and earth fruit supported by a nice touch of charry oak. The palate too shows lots of sweet redcurrant, raspberry and minty fruit with soft tannins and nicely judged charry vanilla oak. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, quite intense, with sweet red berry and earth fruit supported by a nice touch of charry oak. The palate too shows lots of sweet redcurrant, raspberry and minty fruit with soft tannins and nicely judged charry vanilla oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Reynolds YarramanP A powerful, concentrated and strongly structured wine which really defies much of the reputation of the Upper Hunter Valley. Reynolds is consistently producing Shiraz with good concentration and flavour. S 1994U Barbecued beefX 3116Z 14/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Reynolds Yarraman Shiraz Reynolds Yarraman $16-20 Upper Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Reynolds Yarraman [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; the clean and smooth bouquet of dark chocolate and earth is of moderate intensity. The palate is quite substantial, well composed, with attractive cedar/vanilla oak together with cherry, chocolate and earthy fruit. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the clean and smooth bouquet of dark chocolate and earth is of moderate intensity. The palate is quite substantial, well composed, with attractive cedar/vanilla oak together with cherry, chocolate and earthy fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo"> 83 SummerfieldP 19.95 Produced from 3.56 hectares of estate plantings, and now just a single release without differentiation of what was previously a varietal Shiraz (regionally sourced) and an estate-grown wine styled Estate . Incidentally, Summerfield has moved straight from the 94 to the 96 vintage. 1994U Lamb in filo pastryX 3123Z 14/7/98a Pyrenees Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Summerfield Shiraz Summerfield $16-20 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Summerfield [4wine glasses] 1996 Dark red-purple; the bouquet is redolent with potent gamey blackberry, spice and plum varietal fruit; spicy characters come charging through the dark cherry and plum flavours on the palate, and the oak influence is subtle throughout. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Dark red-purple; the bouquet is redolent with potent gamey blackberry, spice and plum varietal fruit; spicy characters come charging through the dark cherry and plum flavours on the palate, and the oak influence is subtle throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 SummerfieldP Produced from 2.1 hectares of estate plantings. The early releases employed a great deal of new American oak, but in recent years the touch has become much more subtle, and the wines have not suffered in consequence. As with the Shiraz, bypassed the 95 vintage. 1994U Rare beefX 14/7/98a Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Summerfield Cabernet Sauvignon Summerfield $21-25 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Summerfield [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; there are ripe currant, cassis and mint aromas on a bouquet of medium intensity, with smooth minty berry fruit on the mid-palate. A slightly sharp acid profile tends to interrupt the finish. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; there are ripe currant, cassis and mint aromas on a bouquet of medium intensity, with smooth minty berry fruit on the mid-palate. A slightly sharp acid profile tends to interrupt the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 TaltarniP !Made in an uncomplicated and direct style, and in good years (such as 1996) produces a very attractive wine. In the warmer vintages it seems to lose varietal definition. The 1996 won a major trophy in an international competition in the United States, while the 97 is an even better wine. 1996U CalamariX 3125Z 14/7/98a Pyrenees Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Taltarni Sauvignon Blanc Taltarni $11-15 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Taltarni /[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; excellent varietal character on the bouquet with gooseberry and herbal aromas of medium intensity. A well-balanced palate showing good varietal character throughout building with a nice touch of tropical gooseberry flavour towards the finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; excellent varietal character on the bouquet with gooseberry and herbal aromas of medium intensity. A well-balanced palate showing good varietal character throughout building with a nice touch of tropical gooseberry flavour towards the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 N Tim AdamsP 11.50 +Tim Adams is an immensely experienced winemaker, and now a veteran of the Clare Valley. Since establishing his own label, his fort has been full-bodied wooded whites and reds, but this wine shows that his skills most certainly extend to Riesling where he started off many years ago at Leasingham. 1996U Seafood saladX 3126Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Tim Adams Riesling c Tim Adams $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 % Tim Adams #[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a reserved, crisp minerally bouquet, unequivocally on the lighter side of the schizophrenic Clare vintage of 97. A tightly constructed palate, powerful but not lush, with mineral, toast and lime flavours; should age well. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a reserved, crisp minerally bouquet, unequivocally on the lighter side of the schizophrenic Clare vintage of 97. A tightly constructed palate, powerful but not lush, with mineral, toast and lime flavours; should age well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 TullochP 11.65 wAt the end of the nineteenth century a number of Hunter Valley winemakers were extremely enthusiastic about the prospects for verdelho. Ninety years on their enthusiasm has at last become a reality, with an increasing volume of verdelho coming from the region. This is in fact the largest selling wine in the Tulloch stable, offering pleasant, easy drinking from the word go. R Drink nowS 1996U!Asian, pasta or white meat dishesX 3129Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Tulloch Verdelho Tulloch $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Tulloch ,[3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the aromas are clean, soft and of light to medium intensity, with gently tropical fruit salad characters. The palate delivers more of the same gentle fruit salad, with a soft finish. Not a complex wine, but then it is not intended to be so. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the aromas are clean, soft and of light to medium intensity, with gently tropical fruit salad characters. The palate delivers more of the same gentle fruit salad, with a soft finish. Not a complex wine, but then it is not intended to be so.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 WarrenmangP A blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, but also including Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Shiraz; estate-produced, and has always been on the big, if not huge, side, but which has now come under control.S 1993U Aged rumpX 3132Z 14/7/98a Pyrenees Grand Pyrenees Cabernet Blends Z Australia Warrenmang Grand Pyrenees Warrenmang Vineyard $21-25 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Warrenmang Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Full red-purple; dense, dark briary berry fruit aromas and a touch of cedar mark a powerful bouquet. The palate is powerful, dense and still tight and tannic, but is clean, and will progressively open up and soften with age. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; dense, dark briary berry fruit aromas and a touch of cedar mark a powerful bouquet. The palate is powerful, dense and still tight and tannic, but is clean, and will progressively open up and soften with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 WyndhamP 11.95 NTypically, one of the most reliable of the Wyndham Estate wines, and notwithstanding its name, seems to have moved away from the somewhat heavy-handed oak of some years ago. Quality has varied somewhat, often good, but sometimes (as in 1996) showing the burnt characters which seem to haunt many white wines made in the Hunter Valley. R Drink nowS 1995U Red Rooster ChickenX 3135Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Oak Cask Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Wyndham Oak Cask Chardonnay Wyndham Estate $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Wyndham Estate [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet can variously be described as biscuity, toasty or slightly burnt, the palate likewise as spicy or with edgy, slightly burnt characters. It may well be a character to which I am hypersensitive. RATING: 76 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet can variously be described as biscuity, toasty or slightly burnt, the palate likewise as spicy or with edgy, slightly burnt characters. It may well be a character to which I am hypersensitive.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">76 YalumbaP Octavius is the super-premium Yalumba red. The first vintage was 1988 (Coonawarra Cabernet) but the two subsequent vintages have been of old Barossa Shiraz, and this is where the future of the wine will lie. The distinguishing feature of the wine is its opulent oak treatment: it is matured in barrels made at Yalumba s own cooperage from American oak from Missouri which was seasoned for eight years before being made into barrels. More is not always best, but in this instance it is. IncidentBVally, the barrels are unusually small (octaves) which increases the impact of the oak. The biggest steak imaginableX 3136Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Octavius Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Yalumba Octavius Shiraz Yalumba Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 Yalumba [5wine glasses] 1993 Medium to full red-purple; a complex, concentrated bouquet with abundant dark, plummy fruit aromas, and surprisingly restrained oak. Plum, dark berry and dark chocolate flavours on the fore and mid-palate are then supported by persistent tannins and generous vanillin oak. Retasted October 1997 with near identical notes. Deliciously, voluptuously ripe with creamy vanilla oak and soft tannins. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1993 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a complex, concentrated bouquet with abundant dark, plummy fruit aromas, and surprisingly restrained oak. Plum, dark berry and dark chocolate flavours on the fore and mid-palate are then supported by persistent tannins and generous vanillin oak. Retasted October 1997 with near identical notes. Deliciously, voluptuously ripe with creamy vanilla oak and soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Yarra BurnP 15.99Q Since 1995, a well-put-together blend of Yarra Valley and King Valley fruit; comparisons with the Sauvignon Blanc of Yarra Ridge are inevitable, and Yarra Burn comes off best in that comparison.R Drink nowS 1996U Light seafoodX 3137Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _#Yarra Burn Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Yarra Burn $11-15 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Yarra Burn [4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a highly fragrant and aromatic bouquet with attractive passionfruit aromas leads into a lively, fresh, tangy passionfruit and gooseberry-accented palate, finishing with crisp acidity. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a highly fragrant and aromatic bouquet with attractive passionfruit aromas leads into a lively, fresh, tangy passionfruit and gooseberry-accented palate, finishing with crisp acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Mount AvocaP 19.20 Produced from 4 hectares of estate-grown grapes. Along with the Sauvignon Blanc, has been a signature wine of the estate for many years, with a distinctive vineyard character. Now a blend of around 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the remainder composed of Merlot and Cabernet Franc in a ratio of approximately two to one. This has led to a label change from Cabernet Sauvignon to Cabernets. The wine is matured in French oak for two years. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Char-grilled steakX 14/7/98` Pyreneesb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Mount Avoca Cabernets Mount Avoca Vineyard $16-20 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Mount Avoca Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a clean and firm bouquet with some varietal astringency. The palate, once again clean, has complex earthy/briary/chocolatey fruit flavours supported by firm tannins and a touch of cedary oak. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean and firm bouquet with some varietal astringency. The palate, once again clean, has complex earthy/briary/chocolatey fruit flavours supported by firm tannins and a touch of cedary oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 ClonakillaP Since 1991 a Bordeaux-style blend typically composed of 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. The wine is given extensive maceration on skins (up to three weeks) before being pressed, and spends 18 months in French oak.S 1994U Tea-smoked lambX 3141Z 14/7/98a Canberra District Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Clonakilla Cabernet Merlot Clonakilla $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 Clonakilla [3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity with earthy/blackberry fruit. The palate has a mix of ripe blackberry and more leafy characters; a slightly soapy finish detracts a little. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity with earthy/blackberry fruit. The palate has a mix of ripe blackberry and more leafy characters; a slightly soapy finish detracts a little.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Wantirna EstateP A new label for a wine which has been made for almost 20 years at Wantirna Estate, adorned with a Michael Leunig drawing, as far removed from the original Wantirna Estate label as the earth is from the sun. The wine is just great. 1995U Peking duckX 3148Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Wantirna Estate Lily Pinot Noir Wantirna Estate $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Wantirna Estate [0wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite ripe, with foresty/gamey overtones to the plummy fruit. A similar range of flavours come through on the relatively firm palate, finishing with life-sustaining tannin. RATING: NR @BM bold:1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite ripe, with foresty/gamey overtones to the plummy fruit. A similar range of flavours come through on the relatively firm palate, finishing with life-sustaining tannin.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">NR WellingtonP Another wine from the Wellington stable to repay cellaring, and, as with the other wines, immaculately made. Sourced not from southern Tasmania, but from a vineyard at Relbia, on the outskirts of Launceston. The 97 is a most interesting wine, which has distinct overtones of Alsace, and which I tasted in several shows, with similar notes, but a very different points outcome perhaps not surprising given the characters. 1995U ed prawnsX 3149Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Wellington Riesling Wellington $16-20 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 Wellington [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is rich, with Alsatian-like phenolics, showing a mix of lime, herb and mineral. The palate lives up to the bouquet, powerful, and well outside traditional Australian mainstream style. It would seem this character came from the unseasonable 1997 vintage, rather than any winemaking tricks. Has considerable length. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is rich, with Alsatian-like phenolics, showing a mix of lime, herb and mineral. The palate lives up to the bouquet, powerful, and well outside traditional Australian mainstream style. It would seem this character came from the unseasonable 1997 vintage, rather than any winemaking tricks. Has considerable length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MajellaP 93 vintage was the first Cabernet to be released from Majella, produced from the House Block. Aged in French oak hogsheads for two years, and deservedly accumulated five gold medals. Not surprisingly, the 95 is a lesser wine.S 1994U Rack of lambX 3157Z 14/7/98a Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Majella Cabernet Sauvignon Majella $16-20 Coonawarra Changed 14/7/98 Majella [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with sweet berry fruit and gentle vanilla oak. Attractive, softly sweet cassis fruit on the palate is again supported by well-handled oak. Won't be particularly long-lived, but its softness and approachability are a very good outcome for a vintage which produced many tough wines. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with sweet berry fruit and gentle vanilla oak. Attractive, softly sweet cassis fruit on the palate is again supported by well-handled oak. Won't be particularly long-lived, but its softness and approachability are a very good outcome for a vintage which produced many tough wines.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Malcolm CreekP Produced from 0.6 hectares of chardonnay planted in 1982, with a further 0.2 hectares planted in 1996 and to come into bearing in future years. A wine which ages with considerable grace; the 94 was the currently available wine in 1997.S 1994U South Australian whitingX 3158Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Malcolm Creek Chardonnay Malcolm Creek $11-15 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Malcolm Creek [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Full yellow; a fruit-driven but bottle-developed bouquet with a mix of gently buttery/toasty/nutty aromas followed by a smooth palate with a mix of yellow peach and toasty flavours. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Full yellow; a fruit-driven but bottle-developed bouquet with a mix of gently buttery/toasty/nutty aromas followed by a smooth palate with a mix of yellow peach and toasty flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Malcolm CreekP 15QvA 100% Cabernet Sauvignon produced from 0.6 hectares of vines planted in 1982, although the area was doubled in 1996. S 1993U Yearling beefX 3159Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _ Malcolm Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Malcolm Creek $11-15 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Malcolm Creek [3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red; a quite powerful briary/minty bouquet with a similarly powerful palate, but which shows a cooler vintage with some shaded canopy characters RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red; a quite powerful briary/minty bouquet with a similarly powerful palate, but which shows a cooler vintage with some shaded canopy characters<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 MorrisP 19.95 Durif is an exceedingly obscure variety closely related to another grape of similar ilk, peloursin. It may or may not be the same as California s petite syrah; if it is not, Australia is the only country in the world producing wines from it. It is as much for its rarity and for its individuality as its ultimate quality that it is included as a classic in my Classic Wines of Australia book. 10-20 years 1994U BiltongX 14/7/98a Rutherglenf Durif Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Morris Durif Morris $16-20 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Morris [4wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; ripe prune, liquorice, hay and straw aromas announce a potently ripe wine on the palate with masses of prune and blackberry flavour. There is no oak influence, not excessively tannic. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; ripe prune, liquorice, hay and straw aromas announce a potently ripe wine on the palate with masses of prune and blackberry flavour. There is no oak influence, not excessively tannic.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 PalmersP 18.75 Another estate-grown and produced wine under the Palmer label which does nothing to dent the reputation of the Margaret River for Cabernet Sauvignon.S 1994U Marinated beefX 3161Z 14/7/98 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Palmers Cabernet Sauvignon Palmers $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Palmers >[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a clean, smooth bouquet with red berry fruit of medium intensity with attractive nuances of cedar and leaf. Not a big wine in the mouth, but nicely weighted, with more red berry fruit and subtle oak. Slightly callow, and needs a few years in bottle to soften. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean, smooth bouquet with red berry fruit of medium intensity with attractive nuances of cedar and leaf. Not a big wine in the mouth, but nicely weighted, with more red berry fruit and subtle oak. Slightly callow, and needs a few years in bottle to soften. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Capel ValeP x1996 marked the fifth release of varietal Merlot by Capel Vale. The grapes are grown at Capel and Pemberton, and it is perhaps the latter which produces the lighter component. The winemaking team is extremely well-credentialled to produce merlot: Krister Jonsson has worked four vintages at Chateau Petrus, and Rob Bowen has been handling Western Australian Merlot since 1982. 1995U Wild duckX 3164Z 14/7/98a Geographe Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Capel Vale Merlot Capel Vale $16-20 South-west Coastal Plain 14/7/98 Capel Vale t[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity but driven largely by pleasant sweet vanilla oak, leaving one to guess about the underlying variety. The palate has both the weight and the texture of Merlot, and likewise some varietal flavour in a mint and leaf spectrum; there simply isn't a great deal of flesh on the bones. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity but driven largely by pleasant sweet vanilla oak, leaving one to guess about the underlying variety. The palate has both the weight and the texture of Merlot, and likewise some varietal flavour in a mint and leaf spectrum; there simply isn't a great deal of flesh on the bones.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Reynolds YarramanP Made entirely from estate-grown grapes from the Yarraman Vineyard picked at a relatively high baum (for Semillon) of 12.5 degrees, tank fermented and given extended lees contact. S 1996U MusselsX 3169Z 14/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _(Reynolds Yarraman Hunter Valley Semillon Reynolds Yarraman $11-15 Upper Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Reynolds Yarraman [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, full and complex bouquet marked by some tropical honeyed fruit is reflected in a rich, powerful full-on palate, utterly unexpected from the 97 vintage. Perhaps a fraction thick, but ... RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, full and complex bouquet marked by some tropical honeyed fruit is reflected in a rich, powerful full-on palate, utterly unexpected from the 97 vintage. Perhaps a fraction thick, but ...<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Wa De LockP 16.95 5Necessity was very probably the mother of the invention of this wine, prompted by the cool and wet 1996 vintage. The wine is in fact only lightly botrytis-affected, and is an interesting example of a rare wine style in this country. The 97, even better than the 96, suggests Graeme Little is onto something. 1996U Prosciutto and melonX 3172Z 14/7/98a Gippsland Noble Sauvignon Blanc Sweet Sweet Z Australia _ Wa De Lock Noble Sauvignon Blanc Wa De Lock $16-20 r Gippsland 14/7/98 Wa De Lock [4wine glasses] 1997 Brilliant green-yellow; herbaceous, varietal sauvignon blanc comes through strongly on the bouquet. The palate is clean and fresh, with honey and herb flavours of sp tlese sweetness. Pristinely clean throughout, and very well made. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Brilliant green-yellow; herbaceous, varietal sauvignon blanc comes through strongly on the bouquet. The palate is clean and fresh, with honey and herb flavours of sp tlese sweetness. Pristinely clean throughout, and very well made.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 N Ada RiverP 16QqIn 1994 the Pinot Noir was a blend of 50% Neerim and 50% Yarra Valley fruit, in 1995 becoming 100% Yarra Valley. R Drink nowS 1994U Light Asian cuisineX 3173Z 14/7/98a Gippsland Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Ada River Pinot Noir c Ada River $16-20 r Gippsland 14/7/98 % Ada River [3wine glasses] 1996 Light red; the bouquet shows ripe, earthy strawberry aromas; the palate has some light varietal character, with tobacco characters, but is starting to tire. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light red; the bouquet shows ripe, earthy strawberry aromas; the palate has some light varietal character, with tobacco characters, but is starting to tire.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 GoldersP Winemaking runs in the family, it seems, for Richard Crabtree is Robert Crabtree s (of Watervale in the Clare Valley) brother. His 1995 Pinot Noir, sourced from Craig Hogarth s small vineyard at Pipers Brook, is his first wine, and a creditable effort, followed up by an even better 1995U QuailX 3178Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Golders Pinot Noir Golders Vineyard $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Golders Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with smooth plummy fruit with clear varietal character and good intensity. The palate, too, has abundant plummy fruit, and is well balanced and structured. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with smooth plummy fruit with clear varietal character and good intensity. The palate, too, has abundant plummy fruit, and is well balanced and structured.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Mount BeckworthP Produced from 1.5 hectares of estate plantings, and made in a very attractive unwooded style. Given the style of the 96 wine, it is not hard to see why the wine was highly prized by Seppelts as sparkling wine use.S 1996U Lemon chickenX 3184Z 14/7/98a Ballarat Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _#Mount Beckworth Unwooded Chardonnay Mount Beckworth $11-15 Ballarat 14/7/98 Mount Beckworth [2.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; both the bouquet and palate are light, with pronounced herbal/citrus aromas and flavours, on the green side of acceptability for table wine. RATING: 72 @BM bold:XXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; both the bouquet and palate are light, with pronounced herbal/citrus aromas and flavours, on the green side of acceptability for table wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">72 Phillip IslandP Only 100 half-bottles of this wine were made in 1996, the first from Phillip Island. The 97 moved into commercial production scale, and promptly won two trophies (including Best White Wine) at the 1997 Lilydale Wine Show.S 1996U Fresh crabX 3187Z 14/7/98 )a Gippsland Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Phillip Island Sauvignon Blanc Phillip Island Vineyard $21-25 r Gippsland 14/7/98 Phillip Island Vineyard ([4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a clean and fresh bouquet of light to medium intensity, with delicate passionfruit aromas; the palate is similarly fresh, delicate and well balanced, simply lacking the fruit intensity of top-end New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a clean and fresh bouquet of light to medium intensity, with delicate passionfruit aromas; the palate is similarly fresh, delicate and well balanced, simply lacking the fruit intensity of top-end New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Reg DraytonP A blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Semillon produced from the Pokolbin Hills Estate, and a wine which has won medals for every vintage produced since 1992. S 1996U Breast of turkeyX 3188Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Pokolbin Hills Chardonnay Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _.Reg Drayton Pokolbin Hills Chardonnay Semillon Reg Drayton Wines $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Reg Drayton Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a soft, faintly peachy bouquet of medium intensity is followed by a medium weight, pleasantly dry albeit varietally anonymous palate; will develop toasty/buttery old-style White Burgundy characters with bottle age. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a soft, faintly peachy bouquet of medium intensity is followed by a medium weight, pleasantly dry albeit varietally anonymous palate; will develop toasty/buttery old-style White Burgundy characters with bottle age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Reg DraytonP While the Pokolbin Hills Estate was first planted in 1970 (with 8.4 hectares of semillon) the chardonnay was not planted until 1988, when 1.8 hectares were established. Like the Chardonnay Semillon, a medal winner in every vintage since 1993, the first vintage of the wine. R Drink nowS 1996U RavioliX 3190Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Pokolbin Hills Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _%Reg Drayton Pokolbin Hills Chardonnay Reg Drayton Wines $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Reg Drayton Wines [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; complex tangy melon and citrus fruit with well-handled oak on the bouquet; the palate shows more of the same, with attractive tangy fruit, and an ever so gently charry oak tang to the finish. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; complex tangy melon and citrus fruit with well-handled oak on the bouquet; the palate shows more of the same, with attractive tangy fruit, and an ever so gently charry oak tang to the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 RimfireP [Estate-grown, and, barrel-fermented in new French oak, this wine has led the way for Rimfire since its debut in 1996, winning the Courier-Mail/Sheraton Wine Award for Best Queensland Dry White Wine, and moving to even greater heights with the 1997, which won the first-ever gold medal for a Queensland wine in the Australian Small Winemakers Show. 1996U Rack of veal 3192Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of Qld Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Rimfire Chardonnay Rimfire Vineyards $11-15 Queensland Zone 14/7/98 Rimfire Vineyards #[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; fine, melon and fig fruit on the bouquet is supported by just a touch of oak, less assertively so than the 96 was. The palate, too, is elegant and fine, with melon, citrus and fig fruit, good length and attractively subtle oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; fine, melon and fig fruit on the bouquet is supported by just a touch of oak, less assertively so than the 96 was. The palate, too, is elegant and fine, with melon, citrus and fig fruit, good length and attractively subtle oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Kumeu RiverP The top-of-the-range Chardonnay from Kumeu River, named by Michael Brajkovich in honour of his late father, Mat Brajkovich surely one of the all-time great gentlemen of the wine industry anywhere. A single-vineyard wine fermented in French oak, and an outstanding example of the genre. The vineyard, incidentally, was first planted in 1944, but entirely replanted in 1990, with the first wine from the new plantings made in 1993. 1995U Milk-fed vealX 3200Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Vineyard Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _$Kumeu River Mat Vineyard Chardonnay Kumeu River Wines $26-50 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Kumeu River Wines [5wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; the aromas are extremely complex and concentrated, with impeccable oak balance and integration, and no one aroma dominating. There is an extra dimension of intensity of flavour on the palate, which has the longest finish I have encountered in a Chardonnay for many years. Here, too, it is hard to single out a single taste descriptor, which is no doubt exactly what Michael Brajkovich intended. RATING: 97 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the aromas are extremely complex and concentrated, with impeccable oak balance and integration, and no one aroma dominating. There is an extra dimension of intensity of flavour on the palate, which has the longest finish I have encountered in a Chardonnay for many years. Here, too, it is hard to single out a single taste descriptor, which is no doubt exactly what Michael Brajkovich intended.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0B h100z8f"Bembo">97 MontanaP 16.95 AThe Saints range of wines is a relatively new introduction into the Montana portfolio, pitched towards the upper end of the market. The grapes come from the Brancott Estate in the Wairau Valley and 10% of the wine was fermented in new Demptos American oak barriques, the remainder being cold fermented in stainless steel. R Drink nowS 1996U SeafoodX 3201Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Saints Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _*Montana Saints Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Montana Wines $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Montana Wines d[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a wine with an altogether softer profile, rounded and complexed by the touch of barrel fermentation which comes through ever so gently. The palate is equally carefully and cleverly constructed, with a gentle touch of passionfruit, and the oak barely perceptible. Extremely successful winemaking. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a wine with an altogether softer profile, rounded and complexed by the touch of barrel fermentation which comes through ever so gently. The palate is equally carefully and cleverly constructed, with a gentle touch of passionfruit, and the oak barely perceptible. Extremely successful winemaking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Spencer Hill EstateP jProduced from grapes grown on the Brentwood Vineyard in Marlborough. A rich, complex style which has achieved considerable acclaim and success in wine shows, and success in wine shows in various parts of the world. Like the Evan's Vineyard Moutere Chardonnay, made in very limited quantities, with a very strong winemaker-style statement. 620 cases made in 1996. 1995U TempuraX 3206Z 14/7/98a Nelson Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Spencer Hill Estate Chardonnay Spencer Hill Estate $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Spencer Hill Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Full yellow; a range of nutty/malty/meady aromas with subtle oak are mirrored by an extremely malty/meady/creamy palate. The points given are a subjective judgement on my part; others may be far more convinced by the style approach. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Full yellow; a range of nutty/malty/meady aromas with subtle oak are mirrored by an extremely malty/meady/creamy palate. The points given are a subjective judgement on my part; others may be far more convinced by the style approach.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Canobolas-SmithP The over-size, striking blue labels may not be to everyone s taste, but they certainly are evocative. So is the name of this wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Shiraz, disparate parts which come together well.S 1994U Milk-fed vealX 3207Z 14/7/98a Orange Alchemy Cabernet Blends Z Australia Canobolas-Smith Alchemy Canobolas-Smith $16-20 Orange 14/7/98 Canobolas-Smith [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite sweet, with clean, smooth chocolate and vanilla aromas. The palate has chocolate, leaf, mint and vanilla flavours of medium intensity, and just a slight hint of wintergreen. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite sweet, with clean, smooth chocolate and vanilla aromas. The palate has chocolate, leaf, mint and vanilla flavours of medium intensity, and just a slight hint of wintergreen.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 >N HillstoweP The Buxton Vineyard produces both Cabernet Merlot and Shiraz for Hillstowe; in line with the overall profile of McLaren Vale, the Buxton Shiraz is the more reliable wine of the two.S 1994U Steak and kidney pieX 3209Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Buxton Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Hillstowe Buxton Shiraz c Hillstowe $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 % Hillstowe ![4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a rich and full bouquet with the promise of luscious dark berry, plum and chocolate fruit is fulfilled on the palate, which shows strong regional fruit varietal character framed with supple, sweet American oak. Delicious. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a rich and full bouquet with the promise of luscious dark berry, plum and chocolate fruit is fulfilled on the palate, which shows strong regional fruit varietal character framed with supple, sweet American oak. Delicious.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 ?N ParacombeP A blend of estate-grown Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, which spends two years in a mix of French and American oak. Exceedingly youthful, it barely shows the long time it has spent in wood.S 1994U Roast lambX 3210Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia Paracombe Shiraz Cabernet Paracombe Wines $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Paracombe Wines [4wine glasses] 1995 Full red-purple; there is a range of mint, plum, spice and liquorice aromas running through sweet fruit on both the bouquet and palate. The palate runs in the liquorice, plum and berry spectrum, with good length, and has particularly sweet tannins. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; there is a range of mint, plum, spice and liquorice aromas running through sweet fruit on both the bouquet and palate. The palate runs in the liquorice, plum and berry spectrum, with good length, and has particularly sweet tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 CN HeemskerkP Typically picked at the end of April, sometimes as late as the first week of May, it is becoming more Burgundian in style, and contrary to the general view of the vintage the 96 was a better wine than the 1996U Spiced quailX 3214Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Heemskerk Pinot Noir c Heemskerk $26-50 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 % Heemskerk [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a mix of plum, spice and more foresty aromas mark a surprisingly ripe bouquet; the wine has good length and style on the palate, again with a touch of spice and some maceration characters. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a mix of plum, spice and more foresty aromas mark a surprisingly ripe bouquet; the wine has good length and style on the palate, again with a touch of spice and some maceration characters. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 QN Lark HillP A wine which forces me to drink my words, for I have always held the view that the climate of the Canberra district is not suited to Pinot Noir. In 1996, at least, David and Sue Carpenter achieved a minor miracle with this gold medal winner from the 1997 Sydney Wine Show. The 97 vintage, while perhaps not quite in the class of the 96, shows the prior year was no fluke, winning the 97 Pinot Noir Trophy at the 1998 Canberra Regional Wine Show. 1996U VenisonX 3228Z 14/7/98a Canberra District Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Lark Hill Pinot Noir c Lark Hill $21-25 Canberra District 14/7/98 % Lark Hill 8[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full red-purple; the aromas are fragrant and complex, with positive varietal plummy fruit and well-handled spicy oak. The palate ranges through spice, earth and forest before opening out into the plum flavours promised by the bouquet, the finish still to soften. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the aromas are fragrant and complex, with positive varietal plummy fruit and well-handled spicy oak. The palate ranges through spice, earth and forest before opening out into the plum flavours promised by the bouquet, the finish still to soften. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Osborns HarwoodP 23QMProduced from 1.6 hectares of estate plantings on well-drained duplex soils. S 1995U Grilled quailX 3331Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Osborns Harwood Pinot Noir Osborns Harwood Vineyard $21-25 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Osborns Harwood Vineyard 7[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium red; the bouquet is light, but fragrant with tobacco, rhubarb and strawberry aromas, characters which are precisely repeated on the palate. The wine has good mouthfeel, with that faintly slippery character of cool-grown Pinot, finishing with subtle oak. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red; the bouquet is light, but fragrant with tobacco, rhubarb and strawberry aromas, characters which are precisely repeated on the palate. The wine has good mouthfeel, with that faintly slippery character of cool-grown Pinot, finishing with subtle oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 VN YarrabankP OThe first release of Yarrabank is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, half of each variety coming, respectively, from the Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula. It spent three years on yeast lees prior to disgorgement. The rating of the 93 previously appearing was erroneous; it should have been five glasses (or 94 points). 1993U Aperitif, shellfishX 3333Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Brut Cuv X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Yarrabank Brut Cuv c Yarrabank $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 % Yarrabank V[5wine glasses] 1994 Light yellow-green; a spotless bouquet, with quite intense lime/citrus aromas and some bready autolysis characters in the background. An exemplary palate, intense and lively, with crisp citrus and apple flavours; long, faintly creamy finish. Gets better every time I taste it (which is very frequently). RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a spotless bouquet, with quite intense lime/citrus aromas and some bready autolysis characters in the background. An exemplary palate, intense and lively, with crisp citrus and apple flavours; long, faintly creamy finish. Gets better every time I taste it (which is very frequently).<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 ]N Kara KaraP Kara Kara has 1.5 hectares each of estate plantings of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, blending the two, sometimes with the Cabernet being the dominant partner, sometimes the Shiraz.S 1995U Mixed grillX 3342Z 14/7/98a Pyrenees Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia Kara Kara Shiraz Cabernet Kara Kara Vineyard $16-20 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Kara Kara Vineyard S[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet shows interesting Chinese spice/Peking duck overtones of uncertain origin; pleasant red fruit is also evident. The palate seems to strike off in different direction, being quite powerful, but with a leafy Cabernet component coming through on a slightly bitter finish. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet shows interesting Chinese spice/Peking duck overtones of uncertain origin; pleasant red fruit is also evident. The palate seems to strike off in different direction, being quite powerful, but with a leafy Cabernet component coming through on a slightly bitter finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Stefano LubianaP Produced from riesling grown on the estate on the banks of the Derwent River; the 1996 was the top-pointed wine in the 1997 Tasmanian Wine Show, simply because it was better balanced and less acidic than the other wines in the class.S 1996U Marinated scallopsX 3346Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Stefano Lubiana Riesling Stefano Lubiana $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Stefano Lubiana [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a clean and quite smooth bouquet, with herb, lime and mineral aromas is followed by a delicate and crisp palate with fresh herb and lime flavours, perhaps a little lacking in intensity. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a clean and quite smooth bouquet, with herb, lime and mineral aromas is followed by a delicate and crisp palate with fresh herb and lime flavours, perhaps a little lacking in intensity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Bass PhillipP An ultra-scarce single barrel (250 bottles) selection of the best wine in the cellar, and forming part of the wine which would otherwise go into the Premium label. Only released in the best years and, like Romanee Conti, sold on allocation in single and double bottle quantities. It is the reason why many people myself included are inclined to say that Bass Phillip makes the best Pinot Noir in Australia. 4-10 yearsS 1994U Saddle of hareX 3347Z 14/7/98a Gippslandf Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Bass Phillip Reserve Pinot Noir Bass Phillip r Gippsland t late note 14/7/98 Bass Phillip 1[5wine glasses] 1996 Dark red-purple; an exceptionally powerful, deep yet tightly folded bouquet, with dark plum and spice leads into a power-laden, potent dark plum, forest and briar-flavoured palate. Borders on the unappealing now, so unready is it, but time will create its own magic. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Dark red-purple; an exceptionally powerful, deep yet tightly folded bouquet, with dark plum and spice leads into a power-laden, potent dark plum, forest and briar-flavoured palate. Borders on the unappealing now, so unready is it, but time will create its own magic.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Bass PhillipP Produced from the oldest vines which are ultra-close planted. The wine receives substantially more new oak than does the standard release. 1994U VenisonX 3348Z 14/7/98a Gippslandf Premium Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir Bass Phillip r Gippsland t late note 14/7/98 Bass Phillip Z[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Dark red-purple; an intense, concentrated and ripe dark plum, forest and spice bouquet is followed by an extremely complex, textured and structured wine on the palate with more dark plum, forest and spice flavours. Still tight and closed, and needs a long time (by the standards of Pinot Noir) to evolve. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dark red-purple; an intense, concentrated and ripe dark plum, forest and spice bouquet is followed by an extremely complex, textured and structured wine on the palate with more dark plum, forest and spice flavours. Still tight and closed, and needs a long time (by the standards of Pinot Noir) to evolve. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Apsley GorgeP Contract-made by Andrew Hood in tiny quantities since 1994. It is a wine that has grown in stature year by year, with the 96 and 97 vintages both absolutely excellent, and at the top of the Tasmanian quality tree. Interestingly, the only Chardonnay made by Andrew Hood which normally undergoes malolactic fermentation, this being the express wish of Apsley Gorge owners Brian Frankland and Greg Walch. The 97 won a gold medal at the 1998 Tasmanian Wines Show. 1996U Sugar-cured tunaX 3349Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Apsley Gorge Chardonnay Apsley Gorge Vineyard $16-20 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 Apsley Gorge Vineyard 1[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; complex grapefruit and other citrus aromas with sophisticated, albeit subtle, oak on the bouquet is followed by a palate with real style. Here melon and grapefruit flavours are balanced by appropriate acidity and just a twist of oak. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; complex grapefruit and other citrus aromas with sophisticated, albeit subtle, oak on the bouquet is followed by a palate with real style. Here melon and grapefruit flavours are balanced by appropriate acidity and just a twist of oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Apsley GorgeP zThe 94 and 95 vintages were all entered in the 1997 Tasmanian Wines Show, the latter two winning silver and gold medals respectively, the former a bronze medal on my score sheet, and missing out overall by a mere half a point. Each shows the character of the vintage very well, and the 94 and 95 are certainly wines of high quality, albeit in radically different style. 1995U Breast of squabX 3350Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Apsley Gorge Pinot Noir Apsley Gorge Vineyard $16-20 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 Apsley Gorge Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Youthful red-purple; the colour, bouquet and palate all suggest the wine is relatively low in pH and high in acidity, auguring well for its long-term development, but investing the wine with a persistent touch of hardness at this juncture. The wine does have plum-accented varietal fruit, and its breeding suggests it will indeed develop well over the next few years. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Youthful red-purple; the colour, bouquet and palate all suggest the wine is relatively low in pH and high in acidity, auguring well for its long-term development, but investing the wine with a persistent touch of hardness at this juncture. The wine does have plum-accented varietal fruit, and its breeding suggests it will indeed develop well over the next few years.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 QuelltalerP Sourced from two quite distinct pockets of the Clare Valley, 60% coming from the Annie s Lane Vineyard in Polish Hill, the coolest part of the valley which ripens three weeks later than the Quelltaler Estate vineyard at Watervale, from which the remaining 40% comes. Twenty per cent of the wine is barrel-fermented in new French oak, the remainder being fermented in steel before being oak-matured and bottled in August of the year of vintage. R Drink nowS 1996U Grilled chickenX 3352Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Annie s Lane Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"Quelltaler Annie s Lane Chardonnay Quelltaler $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Quelltaler [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a moderately intense bouquet with subtle oak is followed by a somewhat leaden-footed palate in that typical Clare-style; has flavour but not much finesse or particularly good varietal character. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a moderately intense bouquet with subtle oak is followed by a somewhat leaden-footed palate in that typical Clare-style; has flavour but not much finesse or particularly good varietal character.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 QuelltalerP LA blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, the Cabernet Sauvignon coming in part from Annie s Lane Vineyard in Polish Hill and from other Clare Valley growers, the Merlot component from the Quelltaler Estate vineyard. Fermented in small 4-tonne open fermenters, then matured in French oak (20% new) for a period of 15 months. 1995U Illabo spring lamb 3353Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Annie s Lane Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _'Quelltaler Annie s Lane Cabernet Merlot Quelltaler $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Quelltaler #[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is inky, almost murky, loaded with blackcurrant/cassis and vanillin oak. The palate is similarly youthful and dense, with strong mint, heaps of blackcurrant, lots of oak and appropriate tannins. Just give it time. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is inky, almost murky, loaded with blackcurrant/cassis and vanillin oak. The palate is similarly youthful and dense, with strong mint, heaps of blackcurrant, lots of oak and appropriate tannins. Just give it time.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 QuelltalerP Comes from predominantly old vines on both the Annie s Lane Vineyard in Polish Hill as well as from contract growers throughout the Clare Valley. Fermented in small 4-tonne open fermenters, and matured in a mix of French and American oak hogsheads for 20 months. As with all the Annie s Lane wines, a consistent show winner, and a testimonial to the skills of winemaker David O Leary. 1994U Pepper steakX 3354Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Annie s Lane Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Quelltaler Annie s Lane Shiraz Quelltaler $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Quelltaler [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; smooth, rich dark berry and dark chocolate fruit is balanced by oak on the bouquet; a big, rich cherry-ripe and mint style on the palate, with soft tannins and unintrusive oak. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; smooth, rich dark berry and dark chocolate fruit is balanced by oak on the bouquet; a big, rich cherry-ripe and mint style on the palate, with soft tannins and unintrusive oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 OrlandoP Jacobs Creek is one of the marketing miracles of the modern world, with more than one million cases a year sold in the United Kingdom market alone. It has been brand-extended from its original Shiraz Cabernet Malbec base to a range of four, also including Riesling, Chardonnay and Semillon Chardonnay. Notwithstanding the very large volume in which the Jacobs Creek Riesling is made, recent vintages have been consistent gold medal winners in national wine shows, competing against far more exp ensive (and more prestigious) wines. The 97 is yet another success for an extraordinarily successful label, winning The Wine Society Trophy for Best Commercial Dry White at the 1997 National Wine Show. 1995U Salads, seafoodX 3355Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Jacobs Creek Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Orlando Jacobs Creek Riesling Orlando e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Orlando [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; an aromatic bouquet with attractive, soft lime/tropical aromas and a very well-constructed palate, delivering all one could possibly expect in a wine made in this volume and sold at this price. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; an aromatic bouquet with attractive, soft lime/tropical aromas and a very well-constructed palate, delivering all one could possibly expect in a wine made in this volume and sold at this price.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Wolf BlassP Only limited quantities are made, which at the price seems a pretty smart decision by those in charge of such matters. In a sign of the times, Black Label is now a Cabernet Merlot blend, not the Cabernet Shiraz blend of the prior 20 years. The style, however, is unchanged. 1993U Steak with wild mushroomsX 3359Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Black Label Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _&Wolf Blass Black Label Cabernet Merlot Wolf Blass Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Wolf Blass x[3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; the aromas are very sweet, but entirely dominated and shaped by vanillin American oak. The palate is emphatically in the old-fashioned Blass style, with lashings of vanilla, chocolate and the odd bit of fruit poking its nose through. The parts are all beautifully woven together, aided by bottle age, but not for me. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the aromas are very sweet, but entirely dominated and shaped by vanillin American oak. The palate is emphatically in the old-fashioned Blass style, with lashings of vanilla, chocolate and the odd bit of fruit poking its nose through. The parts are all beautifully woven together, aided by bottle age, but not for me.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Andrew GarrettP A blend of 55% Padthaway, 30% McLaren Vale and 15% Cowra fruit barrel-fermented in a mix of American and French oak hogsheads. Over the past few vintages has been particularly good, a testimonial to the winemaking skills of Phillip Reschke. R Drink nowS 1995U Loin of porkX 3361Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Andrew Garrett Chardonnay Andrew Garrett $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Andrew Garrett [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the effective use of oak together with ripe fig and melon fruit produces a full and complex bouquet. The palate, too, is honest and full-flavoured, the oak judiciously handled. Probably best earlier in its life. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the effective use of oak together with ripe fig and melon fruit produces a full and complex bouquet. The palate, too, is honest and full-flavoured, the oak judiciously handled. Probably best earlier in its life.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Cranswick EstateP One hundred per cent Botrytis Semillon sourced from a single grower (Pat Zirilli) in Griffith, and given 12 months maturation in oak. Prior vintages have been prolific show medal winners; the 95 has won gold medals at minor shows (Rutherglen and Griffith). 1994U Peach tartX 3363Z 14/7/98a Riverina Autumn Gold Botrytis Semillon (375 ml) Sweet Sweet Z Australia _7Cranswick Estate Autumn Gold Botrytis Semillon (375 ml) Cranswick Estate $21-25 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 Cranswick Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Glowing yellow-green; a complex array of cumquat, mandarin and honey fruit aromas come through solid oak on the bouquet, and even more evident oak on the palate. Plenty of total flavour, and finishes with good acid. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; a complex array of cumquat, mandarin and honey fruit aromas come through solid oak on the bouquet, and even more evident oak on the palate. Plenty of total flavour, and finishes with good acid.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 HardysP 54.99 First launched in 1994 when the 1989 vintage was released. Initially a blend of predominantly Coonawarra and McLaren Vale material, it is now entirely sourced from Coonawarra. The wine spends 18 months in a mix of French and American oak, and is given at least two years bottle age prior to release. A wine at the opulent end of the scale, not unlike Wynns John Riddoch in style, and a prolific trophy and gold medal winner. 10+ years.S 1992U Rich red meat dishesX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _&Hardys Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon Hardys McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Hardys N[4.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; a solid, complex bouquet with a range of fruit aromas having nuances of Shiraz, even a touch of liquorice. The palate is rich and voluptuously sweet with high gloss minty berry fruit. The oak has been very well handled, playing a strong but appropriate support role. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a solid, complex bouquet with a range of fruit aromas having nuances of Shiraz, even a touch of liquorice. The palate is rich and voluptuously sweet with high gloss minty berry fruit. The oak has been very well handled, playing a strong but appropriate support role.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Katnook EstateP 14.50Q A blend of approximately 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Shiraz. It spends 15 months in a mix of American and French oak barriques, 25% of which is new American. S 1994U Roast leg of lambX 14/7/98a Coonawarra Riddoch Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _&Katnook Estate Riddoch Cabernet Shiraz Katnook Estate $11-15 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Katnook Estate [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with a range of minty/leafy/earthy aromas, with more of the same on the palate. Subtle oak. Not as good as preceding vintages; it is clear 96 was a schizophrenic vintage in Coonawarra. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with a range of minty/leafy/earthy aromas, with more of the same on the palate. Subtle oak. Not as good as preceding vintages; it is clear 96 was a schizophrenic vintage in Coonawarra.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 MirandaP 12.95 Miranda has been one of the most unabashed supporters of the King Valley, giving full recognition to the region on a number of their labels and now opening a winery there. This is an interesting wine with small percentages of Semillon and Riesling sometimes incorporated into the blend; primarily tank-fermented, with a portion barrel-fermented and back-blended, making a substantial impact. R Drink nowS 1995U PizzaX 3365Z 14/7/98a Riverina High Country Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Miranda High Country Chardonnay Miranda $11-15 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Miranda [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with melon and fig fruit, and slight plasticene oak character. The palate is lively with a range of citrus, melon and fig fruit doing most of the talking. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with melon and fig fruit, and slight plasticene oak character. The palate is lively with a range of citrus, melon and fig fruit doing most of the talking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Omaka SpringsP 11.99Q Made in mainstream Marlborough-style, unoaked but with up to 12% Semillon incorporated to give a little more complexity and depth. R Drink nowS 1996U ed scallopsX 3367Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Omaka Springs Sauvignon Blanc Omaka Springs Estate $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Omaka Springs Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a fresh and quite aromatic palate with a mix of light gooseberry, passionfruit and peach aromas is followed by a delicate yet flavoursome palate with slightly atypical but enjoyable white peach tastes to go with the more traditional gooseberry and passionfruit. A considerable step up from the pleasant but light 96. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a fresh and quite aromatic palate with a mix of light gooseberry, passionfruit and peach aromas is followed by a delicate yet flavoursome palate with slightly atypical but enjoyable white peach tastes to go with the more traditional gooseberry and passionfruit. A considerable step up from the pleasant but light 96.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Omaka SpringsP 12.99 An unusual wine in the New Zealand scheme of things, being lighter and more delicate than one usually encounters. The oak influence is minimal (only 20% is barrel-fermented), and only half the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation. S 1995U White-fleshed fishX 3368Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Omaka Springs Chardonnay Omaka Springs Estate $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Omaka Springs Estate [3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a very light, crisp bouquet with mineral and cashew notes is followed by a palate which tends to be rather thin, lacking concentration, although there is no winemaking fault. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a very light, crisp bouquet with mineral and cashew notes is followed by a palate which tends to be rather thin, lacking concentration, although there is no winemaking fault.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 HawkesbridgeP First made in 1994, and very well received. After an indifferent 1995 not surprising given the vintage has bounced back with the 96 and SeafoodX 3369Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Willowbank Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _0Hawkesbridge Willowbank Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Hawkesbridge Wines $16-20 Marlborough t late note 14/7/98 Hawkesbridge Wines [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a potent bouquet in traditional Marlborough-style, with a mix of ripe gooseberry and more herbaceous fruit is followed by a full, rich flavoursome palate with abundant gooseberry fruit, thickening ever so slightly on the finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a potent bouquet in traditional Marlborough-style, with a mix of ripe gooseberry and more herbaceous fruit is followed by a full, rich flavoursome palate with abundant gooseberry fruit, thickening ever so slightly on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Walnut RidgeP I suspect that necessity was the mother of invention, and that nature decreed that part of the 1996 Sauvignon Blanc vintage should be made as a botrytised version. It is in fact of only intermediate sweetness, but has been very well handled.S 1996U Fresh fruitX 3373Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Botrytised Sauvignon Blanc Sweet Sweet New Zealand _'Walnut Ridge Botrytised Sauvignon Blanc Walnut Ridge $16-20 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Walnut Ridge [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-green, an intensely fragrant bouquet with rich tropical fruit aromas; the palate has excellent flavour though one would be hard-pressed to guess the grape variety. The sweetness is balanced by acidity, and the wine works very well. Retasted September 1997. Ageing well with attractive apricot peach flavours dominant, and still no sign of the Sauvignon Blanc base. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green, an intensely fragrant bouquet with rich tropical fruit aromas; the palate has excellent flavour though one would be hard-pressed to guess the grape variety. The sweetness is balanced by acidity, and the wine works very well. Retasted September 1997. Ageing well with attractive apricot peach flavours dominant, and still no sign of the Sauvignon Blanc base. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Charles CimickyP Produced from low-yielding Barossa Valley shiraz, and typically possessing extraordinary depth and concentration of flavour. The 94 and 95 are no exception. S 1994U BuffaloX 3374Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley M Signature Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _ Charles Cimicky Signature Shiraz Charles Cimicky $21-25 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Charles Cimicky C[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; a rich, full bouquet with a mix of berry, earth, chocolate and briar aromas. The palate moves more into vanilla oak country, with some minty flavours to go along with the characters following on from the bouquet. In typical fashion, a mouthful and a half. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a rich, full bouquet with a mix of berry, earth, chocolate and briar aromas. The palate moves more into vanilla oak country, with some minty flavours to go along with the characters following on from the bouquet. In typical fashion, a mouthful and a half.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Coopers CreekP A consistently excellent wine from a region not known for the quality of its Riesling; grown by Jim Scotland. A remarkable fact is that every vintage since 1989 has won a gold medal.S Vegetable terrineX 3384Z 14/7/98 Auckland Area Hawke s Bay Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _"Coopers Creek Hawke s Bay Riesling Coopers Creek $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Coopers Creek "[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is crisp, with some herb and lime; light to medium intensity. The palate is quite tight and relatively dry, that impression increased by the crisply bracing acidity. Underlying lime fruit will develop with bottle age. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is crisp, with some herb and lime; light to medium intensity. The palate is quite tight and relatively dry, that impression increased by the crisply bracing acidity. Underlying lime fruit will develop with bottle age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Coopers CreekP 27.50 The somewhat off-putting name should not mislead you; this is the flagship of the excellent Coopers Creek white wine range. One hundred per cent barrel fermentation in all tight-grain, heavy toast French oak (from Francois Freres and Dargaud & Jaegle), 70% of which is new, with malolactic fermentation and ten months in barrel produce a wine which is never to be denied. Not made in poor vintages, incidentally. Creamy pastaX 3386Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Swamp Road Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _+Coopers Creek Swamp Road Reserve Chardonnay Coopers Creek $26-50 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Coopers Creek 8[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; an elegant bouquet, still surprisingly tight, with citrus and melon fruit does not prepare you for the extremely rich, intense Batard Montrachet-like viscosity of the palate. Tangy and lively, with all the weight one could conceivably wish for. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; an elegant bouquet, still surprisingly tight, with citrus and melon fruit does not prepare you for the extremely rich, intense Batard Montrachet-like viscosity of the palate. Tangy and lively, with all the weight one could conceivably wish for.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Coopers CreekP A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot which spends nine months in new American oak but which in typical Coopers Creek fashion is not overwhelmed by that oak. One of the most highly regarded (and highly priced) of Auckland s red wines. The Reserve tag, normally part of the brand name, was omitted in 1996 because the vintage was not considered of sufficient quality. And the price was reduced, a rare event in the New World. LambX 3387Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Huapai Reserve Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand _,Coopers Creek Huapai Reserve Cabernet Merlot Coopers Creek $16-20 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Coopers Creek [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a potent, edgy bouquet with a mix of juicy berry, earth, spice, leaf and mint aromas. The same cascade of firm to the point of sharp leafy/berry/minty flavours are evident on the palate. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a potent, edgy bouquet with a mix of juicy berry, earth, spice, leaf and mint aromas. The same cascade of firm to the point of sharp leafy/berry/minty flavours are evident on the palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Holmes BrothersP 15.95Q Produced from organically-grown sauvignon blanc planted in 1992 on free-draining stony soils adjacent to the Western Ranges of Nelson Bay. An inoffensive 96 vintage has been followed by an outstanding SeafoodX 3388Z 14/7/98a Nelson Richmond Plains Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _/Holmes Brothers Richmond Plains Sauvignon Blanc Holmes Brothers $11-15 Nelson 14/7/98 Holmes Brothers &[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is redolent with passionfruit and gooseberry, striking even by New Zealand standards. The palate is as high flavoured as the bouquet promises yet avoids heaviness. The flavours ripple through the palate to a long finish. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is redolent with passionfruit and gooseberry, striking even by New Zealand standards. The palate is as high flavoured as the bouquet promises yet avoids heaviness. The flavours ripple through the palate to a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Chain Of PondsP 19QLEntirely estate-grown, regularly producing a powerful, full-flavoured style.R 2-7 yearsS 1996U VealX 3390Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Chain Of Ponds Semillon Chain of Ponds $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Chain of Ponds [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is powerful, concentrated and tangy; a big, chunky wine with lots of varietal character in a particular style. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is powerful, concentrated and tangy; a big, chunky wine with lots of varietal character in a particular style. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Crawford RiverP Yet another testament to the winemaking skills, and in particular the white winemaking skills, of John Thomson. It is hard to imagine a more perfect evocation of a blend such as this, with the two varieties seamlessly merging with each other, and reflecting the cool climate. Now-3 yearsS 1996U Crab or shellfishX 3391Z 14/7/98 Far South West Victoria Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _'Crawford River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Crawford River Wines $16-20 Far South Western Victoria 14/7/98 Crawford River Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a highly aromatic bouquet, crisp and clean, with a mix of herb and gooseberry aromas is followed by an ultra-crisp, tangy and lively palate in brilliant summer seafood style. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a highly aromatic bouquet, crisp and clean, with a mix of herb and gooseberry aromas is followed by an ultra-crisp, tangy and lively palate in brilliant summer seafood style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 BabichP AAt the opposite end of the spectrum to Babich s opulent Mara Estate Sauvignon (from Hawke s Bay). This Marlborough version is made in the traditional, no-frills approach, but succeeds brilliantly thanks to the quality of the fruit. Has won a number of gold medals at New Zealand wine shows, and it is not hard to see why. R Drink nowS ed prawnsX 3392Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _"Babich Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Babich $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Babich [4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; light, crisp and more in the herbal than riper end of the spectrum; on the palate there is an attractive mix of herbal and riper, gooseberry-accented, fruit. Crisp, clean, non-phenolic finish. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; light, crisp and more in the herbal than riper end of the spectrum; on the palate there is an attractive mix of herbal and riper, gooseberry-accented, fruit. Crisp, clean, non-phenolic finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Yering StationP 1996 marked the transition from the old regime at Yering Station to the new, following its acquisition in the middle of 1996 by the Rathbone family. Tom Carson was installed as winemaker and is responsible for taking the wine through to bottle. As from 1997, all winemaking has been and will be carried out in the large, state-of-the-art winery part-completed in time for the 1997 vintage. Trout mousseX 3399Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Yering Station Chardonnay Yering Station $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Yering Station [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, in classic understated Yarra-style, and signalling the need for much patience. The palate is likewise light, with melon flavour; a strange wine for this vintage, which needs time. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, in classic understated Yarra-style, and signalling the need for much patience. The palate is likewise light, with melon flavour; a strange wine for this vintage, which needs time.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Yering StationP (Like the Chardonnay, taken to bottle by Tom Carson, who also had considerable input into the fermentation of the wine. Partial barrel fermentation in a small percentage of new oak adds to the complexity of the wine, and 1996 was, of course, a very good vintage for Pinot Noir in the Yarra Valley. Smoked quail 3400Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Yering Station Pinot Noir Yering Station $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Yering Station [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; a quite powerful bouquet with a mix of earth, plum and spice, and hints of carbonic maceration is followed by a solid/plummy/cherry palate, still showing primary fruit flavours. Has time to go. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a quite powerful bouquet with a mix of earth, plum and spice, and hints of carbonic maceration is followed by a solid/plummy/cherry palate, still showing primary fruit flavours. Has time to go.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 McWilliam s Mount PleasantP A new varietal release from McWilliam s Mount Pleasant, and signifying the continuing search for ABC Anything But Chardonnay. In fact, the Hunter Valley made its mind up around the turn of the century that verdelho was well suited to the region, although I wonder whether it might not then have been grown to make fortified wine, as it is on the island of Madeira. Never mind, this is an eminently respectable addition to the ranks. R Drink nowS Sweeter Asian dishesX 3401Z 10/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _#McWilliam s Mount Pleasant Verdelho McWilliam s Mount Pleasant Lower Hunter Valley 10/7/98 McWilliam s Mount Pleasant [3wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with gentle tropical fruit salad aromas, the palate with similar sweet, tropical flavours; a soft, easy and approachable commercial wine. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with gentle tropical fruit salad aromas, the palate with similar sweet, tropical flavours; a soft, easy and approachable commercial wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 PenfoldsP This wine was developed as part of Penfolds on-going search for a long-lived white wine to sit alongside Grange. It demonstrates that the Penfolds team was, at least toying with the idea of using semillon as the base. S Rich seafood or vealX 3402Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Trial Bin Adelaide Hills Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _*Penfolds Trial Bin Adelaide Hills Semillon Penfolds $26-50 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Penfolds X[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, of medium to full intensity, with subtle oak surrounding fruit showing a mix of herbaceous and riper aromas and flavours, gently honeyed, and with a hint of melon. The wine has good mouthfeel and weight, abundant flavour, yet is not the least bit phenolic. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, of medium to full intensity, with subtle oak surrounding fruit showing a mix of herbaceous and riper aromas and flavours, gently honeyed, and with a hint of melon. The wine has good mouthfeel and weight, abundant flavour, yet is not the least bit phenolic. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 PenfoldsP 3This wine marks an important step down the road for Penfolds in its quest for a super-premium white wine to sit, if not quite alongside Grange, at the top of the white wine tree. Penfolds is seeking a wine of complexity and longevity; there may be some way to go yet, but this wine represents real progress. Loin of porkX 3403Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Trial Bin Adelaide Hills Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _,Penfolds Trial Bin Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Penfolds $26-50 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Penfolds [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full yellow-green; a powerful bouquet, tangy and stylish, with well-balanced and integrated oak. The palate is likewise powerful and concentrated, with ripe melon and fig fruit woven through toasty/spicy French oak. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a powerful bouquet, tangy and stylish, with well-balanced and integrated oak. The palate is likewise powerful and concentrated, with ripe melon and fig fruit woven through toasty/spicy French oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Katnook EstateP /At one point of time there was more riesling planted in Coonawarra than either cabernet sauvignon or shiraz. Times have changed dramatically, but Coonawarra has always been capable of producing first-class Riesling if enough care is taken. It has an elegance seldom achieved in other Australian regions. Vegetable terrineX 3404Z 14/7/98a Coonawarra Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Katnook Estate Riesling Katnook Estate $16-20 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Katnook Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet is very much in the Coonawarra style, elegant and fine, with lemon/citrus aromas and just a hint of toast. The palate is fine and crisp, with an almost silky feel, and a long, lingering finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet is very much in the Coonawarra style, elegant and fine, with lemon/citrus aromas and just a hint of toast. The palate is fine and crisp, with an almost silky feel, and a long, lingering finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Rosemount EstateP Drawn from vineyards across south-eastern Australia, and made with the usual flair one comes to expect from Rosemount Estate. An unwooded-style which, nonetheless, has plenty of flavour, witnessed by the gold medals it won at the Brisbane and Perth Shows in the year of its vintage. TakeawayX 3405Z 10/7/98 Upper Hunter Valley Semillon Chardonnay White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _$Rosemount Estate Semillon Chardonnay c Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) Upper Hunter Valley 10/7/98 % Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) w[3wine glasses] 1996 Bright yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and smooth, of medium intensity, and with a light touch of honey. The palate is smooth and round, with a pleasant mix of citrus and more honeyed/buttery flavours, but is a little on the simple side. A very good commercial wine at its price, but not easy to see how it has had such show success. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and smooth, of medium intensity, and with a light touch of honey. The palate is smooth and round, with a pleasant mix of citrus and more honeyed/buttery flavours, but is a little on the simple side. A very good commercial wine at its price, but not easy to see how it has had such show success.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 TullochP 11.20Q A blend of Semillon and Chardonnay. A portion was barrel-fermented in new French oak hogsheads, and received extended maturation on yeast lees. It spends a total of five months in oak and part malolactic fermentation adds further complexity.S Rich white meat dishesX 3406Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Classic Hunter White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Tulloch Classic Hunter White Tulloch $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Tulloch [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a complex, rich toasty/buttery bouquet with very well-balanced and integrated oak. The palate is similarly rich with toasty/nutty/buttery fruit and oak intertwined and balanced. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a complex, rich toasty/buttery bouquet with very well-balanced and integrated oak. The palate is similarly rich with toasty/nutty/buttery fruit and oak intertwined and balanced. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Hill-Smith EstateP =Made from estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc produced from the Air Strip Block situated at the northern end of the Adelaide Hills, 650 metres above sea level. From time to time the wine has been piercingly intense in varietal character, in other years a little more subdued. Some will prefer one extreme, some the other. Fresh mussels 14/7/98a Eden Valley Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _!Hill-Smith Estate Sauvignon Blanc Hill-Smith Estate $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Hill-Smith Estate [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; both the bouquet and palate are rather faint and light, a mere shadow of the slashing varietal fruit routinely coming through in New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, against which it has to compete. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; both the bouquet and palate are rather faint and light, a mere shadow of the slashing varietal fruit routinely coming through in New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, against which it has to compete.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Gibbston ValleyP $21.75 Gibbston Valley has produced two Rieslings each vintage, one from Marlborough, the other from Central Otago the latter originally called Estate Reserve. The handsomely packaged Central Otago version is made from grapes grown on four stony sites , so we are told. Sugar-cured tunaX 3780Z 14/7/98a Otago Central Otago Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _&Gibbston Valley Central Otago Riesling Gibbston Valley $21-25 14/7/98 Gibbston Valley [3wine glasses] 1997 Light straw; the bouquet is very light, with faint citrus/lemon aromas, followed by a palate which seems unduly reliant on residual sugar to balance the rather stalky green fruit flavours. Disappointing. RATING: 76 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light straw; the bouquet is very light, with faint citrus/lemon aromas, followed by a palate which seems unduly reliant on residual sugar to balance the rather stalky green fruit flavours. Disappointing.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">76 Goldwater EstateP 47.50Q Waiheke Island continues to unveil extremely impressive red wines, and although it cannot challenge Hawke s Bay in terms of volume, is certainly laying down the gauntlet on quality. The wine may be expensive, but it is of world class.S VenisonX 3786Z 14/7/98a Waiheke Island Waiheke Island Esslin Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand _-Goldwater Estate Waiheke Island Esslin Merlot Goldwater Estate $26-50 14/7/98 Goldwater Estate [5wine glasses] 1995 Full purple-red; luscious blackcurrant fruit aromas intermingle with hints of spice, leading into a deliciously sweet and juicy palate. There is abundant red and blackcurrant fruit with perfectly rounded and ripe tannins on a soft finish. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Full purple-red; luscious blackcurrant fruit aromas intermingle with hints of spice, leading into a deliciously sweet and juicy palate. There is abundant red and blackcurrant fruit with perfectly rounded and ripe tannins on a soft finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Goldwater EstateP Another extremely distinguished red from Goldwater Estate, acknowledged by Bob Campbell as a New Zealand classic, and it is not hard to see why.S Lamb filletsX 3787Z 14/7/98a Waiheke Island Waiheke Island Cabernet Merlot Franc Cabernet Blends New Zealand _5Goldwater Estate Waiheke Island Cabernet Merlot Franc Goldwater Estate $26-50 14/7/98 Goldwater Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Full red-purple; the bouquet is of medium to full intensity with a mix of ripe blackberry fruit and more leafy/woody notes. There is a stylish mix of berry, cedar and leaf on the palate, finishing with fine-grained but persistent tannins. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; the bouquet is of medium to full intensity with a mix of ripe blackberry fruit and more leafy/woody notes. There is a stylish mix of berry, cedar and leaf on the palate, finishing with fine-grained but persistent tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 N RiversideP Made from estate plantings, and perhaps showing young vine character. On the other hand, it is competitively priced. I much prefer this unoaked version to the barrel-fermented, in which raw oak totally dominates the wine.S SaladX 3783Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Riverside Sauvignon Blanc Riverside Wines $11-15 14/7/98 Riverside Wines [2.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, but lacks definitive fruit character. The palate has slightly more definition, with faintly grassy varietal fruit, and is without taint. RATING: 73 @BM bold:XXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, but lacks definitive fruit character. The palate has slightly more definition, with faintly grassy varietal fruit, and is without taint.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">73 N BotobolarP The Botobolar vineyard has been granted Certified Organic status by the National Association of Sustainable Agriculture, attesting to the founder Gil Wahlquist s commitment to organic practices, and to the equally strong commitment by his successor Kevin Karstrom. This wine is made from vines planted in 1971, with typically low yield. The waxed top to the bottle is a nice touch, but the wine is of such quality that it in fact needs no marketing gimmickry. Rich beef stewX 3789Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Botobolar Shiraz c Botobolar $11-15 14/7/98 % Botobolar >[4wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red, still with a touch of purple; the bouquet is spotlessly clean with a mix of dark chocolate and plum fruit, and only the barest hint of oak. A powerful, fruit-driven wine on the palate with dark berry fruit flavours and soft lingering tannins. Truly delicious. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red, still with a touch of purple; the bouquet is spotlessly clean with a mix of dark chocolate and plum fruit, and only the barest hint of oak. A powerful, fruit-driven wine on the palate with dark berry fruit flavours and soft lingering tannins. Truly delicious.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 N BotobolarP Like the Botobolar Shiraz, produced from organically grown grapes on the estate vineyard. It is very evident that Kevin Karstrom is a highly accomplished self-taught winemaker.S Moroccan lambX 3790Z 10/7/98a Mudgee Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Botobolar Cabernet Sauvignon c Botobolar 10/7/98 % Botobolar &[3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is ripe and full, with the fruit aromas running through plum, dark chocolate, earth and a touch of mint. The palate is full and round, with softly chewy dark chocolate/dark berry fruit, soft tannins and subtle oak. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is ripe and full, with the fruit aromas running through plum, dark chocolate, earth and a touch of mint. The palate is full and round, with softly chewy dark chocolate/dark berry fruit, soft tannins and subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Goldwater EstateP QjAn extremely well-made wine in the bold, luscious style which Goldwater Estate seems to have made its own.S Poached salmonX 3784Z 14/7/98a Waiheke Island Marlborough Roseland Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _0Goldwater Estate Marlborough Roseland Chardonnay Goldwater Estate $16-20 14/7/98 Goldwater Estate >[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; and extremely stylish bouquet with tangy melon/citrus fruit surrounded by spicy French oak. A potent, powerfully, intensely flavoured wine on the palate, baroque in style but none the worse for that, and with the fruit (rather than oak) leading the charge. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; and extremely stylish bouquet with tangy melon/citrus fruit surrounded by spicy French oak. A potent, powerfully, intensely flavoured wine on the palate, baroque in style but none the worse for that, and with the fruit (rather than oak) leading the charge.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 XanaduP Yet another wine from Margaret River which emphasises first what a great region for the variety the Margaret River is, and secondly, how different the style is from that of the Hunter River, and in particular, how well the wine lends itself to sophisticated handling techniques (including the use of oak). This wine is whole-bunch pressed, is taken through a full malolactic fermentation, and then barrel-aged techniques one normally associates with Chardonnay. Yet it is in no sense overworkB1ed or overblown. Produced from 20-year-old vines. Richer fish dishes 3791Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Xanadu Semillon Xanadu Wines $16-20 14/7/98 Xanadu Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; extremely complex, powerful, herbaceous fruit is complexed by clever use of tangy oak. The palate is rich, complex and mouthfilling, with all of the winemaking influences evident, yet harmonious. Excellent wine. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; extremely complex, powerful, herbaceous fruit is complexed by clever use of tangy oak. The palate is rich, complex and mouthfilling, with all of the winemaking influences evident, yet harmonious. Excellent wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 XanaduP 24.50 LA stylish, restrained style using many of the same techniques employed by Xanadu to produce its Semillon. The wine is whole-bunch pressed, barrel-fermented and given lees contact, and gives the impression of having at least some malolactic fermentation, although none is mentioned in the background material furnished by the winery. White-fleshed fishX 3792Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Xanadu Chardonnay Xanadu Wines $21-25 14/7/98 Xanadu Wines 8[3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a very lean and restrained bouquet with nutty/mealy/milky aromas. The palate is similarly super-refined, perhaps a little too much so, but is certainly very different to most Margaret River Chardonnays, which tend to be much fuller and richer. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a very lean and restrained bouquet with nutty/mealy/milky aromas. The palate is similarly super-refined, perhaps a little too much so, but is certainly very different to most Margaret River Chardonnays, which tend to be much fuller and richer.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Cope-WilliamsP The very cool growing conditions at Cope-Williams Macedon vineyard naturally lend themselves to sparkling winemaking. However, small quantities of both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are made as table wines, the Chardonnay succeeding more frequently than the Pinot Noir. Seafood bisqueX 3801Z 10/7/98a Macedon Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Cope-Williams Chardonnay Cope-Williams 10/7/98 Cope-Williams [3wine glasses] 1995 Light yellow-green; the malolactic fermentation influence is very pronounced, with strong mealy/nutty aromas. The palate shows a mix of minerally fruit with nutty/cashew flavours deriving from the malolactic fermentation; simply lacks lusciousness. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the malolactic fermentation influence is very pronounced, with strong mealy/nutty aromas. The palate shows a mix of minerally fruit with nutty/cashew flavours deriving from the malolactic fermentation; simply lacks lusciousness.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Domaine ChandonP iThe Green Point varietal table wines have slowly but steadily assumed greater significance in the Domaine Chandon winemaking portfolio. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are both sourced from the Yarra Valley, and predominantly (if not exclusively) from estate vineyards surrounding the winery. Right from the outset, the style has been generous and full-flavoured. Veal in white sauceX 3799Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Green Point Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Domaine Chandon Green Point Chardonnay Domaine Chandon $16-20 14/7/98 Domaine Chandon D[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a full bouquet with sweet buttery/peachy fruit and pronounced French oak. A wine with lots of flavour and presence, with a textured palate attesting to the use of malolactic fermentation and high-quality French oak/barrel-fermentation characters also contributing. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a full bouquet with sweet buttery/peachy fruit and pronounced French oak. A wine with lots of flavour and presence, with a textured palate attesting to the use of malolactic fermentation and high-quality French oak/barrel-fermentation characters also contributing.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Eastern PeakeP Just how cool Eastern Peake vineyards are can be gauged from the fact that this white was picked in early May, and yet achieved only 12.8 degrees alcohol. It was also taken through partial malolactic fermentation to soften the acidity. An extremely interesting and well-made debut. Crab, shellfishX 3800Z 10/7/98a Ballarat Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Eastern Peake Chardonnay Eastern Peake 10/7/98 Eastern Peake =[3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is discreet, of light to medium intensity, with citrus-accented fruit proclaiming the cool climate. On the palate strong citrus/grapefruit flavours are supported by a touch of melon; the oak is appropriately subtle, and the finish long. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is discreet, of light to medium intensity, with citrus-accented fruit proclaiming the cool climate. On the palate strong citrus/grapefruit flavours are supported by a touch of melon; the oak is appropriately subtle, and the finish long.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Evans & TateP 18.00 This blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Verdelho is always one of the first wines onto the market each year, typically being released in June in the year of its vintage. It has been enormously successful for Evans & Tate, and since its first release in 1987 (when 500 cases were made) has now climbed to the point where it is claimed to be Western Australia s best-selling wine over $10. Fermented in stainless steel, and bottled as soon as it has been cleaned up, it is an emphB atic drink now style. Asian seafoodX 3788Z 14/7/98 Margaret River Western Australia Classic White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _&Evans & Tate Western Australia Classic Evans & Tate $16-20 14/7/98 Evans & Tate 9[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a perfumed, lifted estery/floral bouquet leaps out of the glass. The palate is driven by the Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon components, softened by the Verdelho and Chardonnay. A gently fruity, well-balanced wine which deserves to be drunk, not analysed. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a perfumed, lifted estery/floral bouquet leaps out of the glass. The palate is driven by the Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon components, softened by the Verdelho and Chardonnay. A gently fruity, well-balanced wine which deserves to be drunk, not analysed.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Eyton-on-YarraP This is the second label of Eyton-on-Yarra, but still drawn from the very substantial vineyard resources available to Eyton. A small percentage is barrel-fermented; a classy wine which shows the winemaking skills of Matt Aldridge to good advantage.S SnapperX 3793Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Dalry Road Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _-Eyton-on-Yarra Dalry Road Unwooded Chardonnay Eyton-on-Yarra $11-15 14/7/98 Eyton-on-Yarra [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; subtle melon and fig fruit aromas, with barely perceptible oak, lead into a fine, elegant understated yet classic Yarra-style Chardonnay, with citrus and melon fruit, finishing with good acidity. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; subtle melon and fig fruit aromas, with barely perceptible oak, lead into a fine, elegant understated yet classic Yarra-style Chardonnay, with citrus and melon fruit, finishing with good acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Eyton-on-YarraP 19.50 Made using the full gamut of pinot noir techniques, with 30% whole bunches in the ferment, and the wine pressed and transferred to barrel at 3 baum for the balance of its fermentation. Slightly unusually, given 14 months in oak, and might be better if bottled earlier. Smoked quailX 3796Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Eyton-on-Yarra Pinot Noir Eyton-on-Yarra $16-20 14/7/98 Eyton-on-Yarra 6[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Slightly dull colour; there are a range of briary/earthy/foresty/gamey aromas, all in the secondary stage of varietal character development. The palate is identical to the bouquet, relatively developed, and lacking the vibrant fruit of the best of the 96 Yarra Pinots. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Slightly dull colour; there are a range of briary/earthy/foresty/gamey aromas, all in the secondary stage of varietal character development. The palate is identical to the bouquet, relatively developed, and lacking the vibrant fruit of the best of the 96 Yarra Pinots.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 GrossetP A single vineyard wine, produced from grapes grown in the Piccadilly Valley of the Adelaide Hills region. Only 150 cases were made, and another powerful testament to the winemaking skills of Jeffrey Grosset.S NAU Wild duckX 3803Z 10/7/98a Clare Valley Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Grosset Reserve Pinot Noir Grosset 10/7/98 Grosset Z[5wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; a very intense and powerful bouquet showing whole-bunch carbonic maceration characters in the background leads into a multiflavoured palate with a mix of forest floor, tomato vine and black cherry fruit characters, not dissimilar to the great burgundies of the Domaine de la Romanee Conti. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; a very intense and powerful bouquet showing whole-bunch carbonic maceration characters in the background leads into a multiflavoured palate with a mix of forest floor, tomato vine and black cherry fruit characters, not dissimilar to the great burgundies of the Domaine de la Romanee Conti.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 HoughtonP 11.95 One of the quartet of Show Reserve white wines released in 1997, and the best of an outstanding bunch. Produced from grapes grown on Houghton s Frankland River vineyard, and has amassed four trophies and six gold medals in an extremely distinguished show career. Avocado saladX 3806Z 14/7/98a Swan District Show Reserve Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Houghton Show Reserve Riesling Houghton $11-15 14/7/98 Houghton *[5wine glasses] 1991 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet shows the full expression of mature Riesling, with caressing aromas of honey and lime. The palate is packed with flavour, and then progressing through the honey and lime characters of the bouquet on a lingering finish. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1991 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet shows the full expression of mature Riesling, with caressing aromas of honey and lime. The palate is packed with flavour, and then progressing through the honey and lime characters of the bouquet on a lingering finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 HoughtonP Released in July 1997 in honour of the late, great Jack Mann. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Shiraz primarily sourced from Houghton s Frankland River vineyard, with a lesser component from the Mount Barker Omrah vineyard. It spent two years in a mix of Nevers and Allier French oak; I suspect the cooper was Dargaud & Jaegle. An absolutely superb wine in every respect. Fillet of lambX 3822Z 14/7/98a Swan District M Jack Mann Cabernet Blends Z Australia Houghton Jack Mann Houghton $26-50 14/7/98 Houghton [5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet and the palate both show marvellously handled, balanced and integrated oak seamlessly woven through the wine. There are aromas of plum and mulberry in the background, but with cedar, vanilla and spice to balance that fruit. It is on the palate that the wine shows its ultimate class, with those fine-grained supple tannins which are almost sweet, or creamy, and which invite mouthful after mouthful. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet and the palate both show marvellously handled, balanced and integrated oak seamlessly woven through the wine. There are aromas of plum and mulberry in the background, but with cedar, vanilla and spice to balance that fruit. It is on the palate that the wine shows its ultimate class, with those fine-grained supple tannins which are almost sweet, or creamy, and which invite mouthful after mouthful.<t9h119.9997z7f"FrutigerB)-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Katnook EstateP Produced, as are all of the Katnook Estate wines, from estate-grown grapes. A sophisticated, understated style which will appeal to those with a European bent to their palate.S Yearling steakX 3804Z 14/7/98a Coonawarra Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Katnook Estate Merlot Katnook Estate $26-50 14/7/98 Katnook Estate 3[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; cedar/leafy fruit and oak are interwoven on the bouquet, the wine has the authentic feel, flavour and structure of Merlot on the palate, with flavours essentially in the leafy/cedary/woody spectrum. Not a lush wine by any means, but well balanced. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; cedar/leafy fruit and oak are interwoven on the bouquet, the wine has the authentic feel, flavour and structure of Merlot on the palate, with flavours essentially in the leafy/cedary/woody spectrum. Not a lush wine by any means, but well balanced.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Lawson HillP 14.50QdA clean, well-made wine with good varietal character introduces this variety into the Mudgee region.S PastaX 3812Z 14/7/98 Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Lawson Hill Verdelho Lawson Hill $11-15 14/7/98 Lawson Hill [3wine glasses] 1996 Light straw-yellow; the bouquet shows distinct tropical fruit salad aromas and an intriguing hint of spice. The palate takes up those fruit salad flavours, adding a touch of passionfruit for good measure; gently sweet and well made. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light straw-yellow; the bouquet shows distinct tropical fruit salad aromas and an intriguing hint of spice. The palate takes up those fruit salad flavours, adding a touch of passionfruit for good measure; gently sweet and well made.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 Leeuwin EstateP 26.35Q The second label for Leeuwin Chardonnay, and, as the name indicates, typically released two years before the Art Series wine. Its lower price makes it much more accessible, and it is a wine of considerable quality and character.S Sashimi 3807Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Prelude Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Leeuwin Estate Prelude Chardonnay Leeuwin Estate $26-50 14/7/98 Leeuwin Estate 2[4wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet is intensely fragrant, with pungent grapefruit/melon aromas. The palate has the same intense fruit, with distinct citrussy overtones, and only the barest touch of oak. Not everyone will like this particular fruit character, but I do. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet is intensely fragrant, with pungent grapefruit/melon aromas. The palate has the same intense fruit, with distinct citrussy overtones, and only the barest touch of oak. Not everyone will like this particular fruit character, but I do.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 MontroseP 10.95 QeUnwooded chardonany joined the Poet s Corner range in 1996, providing the usual good value for money.S Takeaway chickenX 3813Z 14/7/98a Mudgee s Corner Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _*Montrose Poet s Corner Unwooded Chardonnay Montrose e under $10 14/7/98 Montrose [3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant with positive melon varietal fruit. The palate is lively and fresh, showing melon and citrus fruit flavours in an elegant, light style. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant with positive melon varietal fruit. The palate is lively and fresh, showing melon and citrus fruit flavours in an elegant, light style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 MontroseP 14.95 Montrose followed closely in the footsteps of neighbour Craigmoor (both now being part of the Wyndham empire, but not then) in producing some of the first Chardonnays in Australia. From the outset, the quality has been high, with then winemaker Carlo Corino anticipating the future in first making unwooded Chardonnay (in the 1970s). Over the years, various vintages of this wine have been trophy winners. Fillet of porkX 3814Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Montrose Chardonnay Montrose $11-15 14/7/98 Montrose [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; not particularly complex, but pleasant peach and melon fruit with subtle oak are present on both bouquet and palate; fresh, clean commercial wine. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; not particularly complex, but pleasant peach and melon fruit with subtle oak are present on both bouquet and palate; fresh, clean commercial wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 ReynellP 36.99 }This wine will not be produced every year (none was in fact made in 1995) but the quality of the inaugural 1994 vintage was such that it demanded to be kept as a single varietal wine. It was matured in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak barriques for two years and possesses a depth and richness of flavour seldom encountered in Australian Merlots. Only 1500 cases were made. Baked ox kidneyX 3819Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Basket Pressed Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Reynell Basket Pressed Merlot Reynell $26-50 14/7/98 Reynell k[5wine glasses] 1994 Full red-purple; there is an extraordinary array of aromas on the bouquet, running through leather, leaf, spice and earth, with vaguely medicinal overtones. No less impressive is the structure and texture on the palate, with almost tangy, lingering tannins providing grip without ferocity. Upholstered by lushly sweet fruit. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; there is an extraordinary array of aromas on the bouquet, running through leather, leaf, spice and earth, with vaguely medicinal overtones. No less impressive is the structure and texture on the palate, with almost tangy, lingering tannins providing grip without ferocity. Upholstered by lushly sweet fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 ReynellP 36.99QzAfter a formidable, indeed intimidating, 94 comes a much more approachable 95; like the 94, given prolonged oak ageing.S Leave it in the cellarX 3820Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Basket Pressed Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _)Reynell Basket Pressed Cabernet Sauvignon Reynell $26-50 14/7/98 Reynell [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Full red-purple; an excellent, unforced bouquet with very good varietal character and subtle oak; on the palate there is a touch of mint to go along with the cassis berry fruit, soft oak and supple tannins. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; an excellent, unforced bouquet with very good varietal character and subtle oak; on the palate there is a touch of mint to go along with the cassis berry fruit, soft oak and supple tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 ReynellP 36.99 The initial release of this wine (the 94) had won seven gold medals prior to its release, and is the type of wine which will continue to amass gold medals so long as it is exhibited in wine shows. Hugely powerful and concentrated, it was matured in American oak for 24 months. Initially that oak is married well with the wine but does gradually build-up on retasting, and ultimately threatens the balance of the wine. Those more tolerant of the flavour of American oak will find no problem witB h it, however. Barbecued rump steakX 3821Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Basket Pressed Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Reynell Basket Pressed Shiraz Reynell $26-50 14/7/98 Reynell [4wine glasses] 1994 Full purple-red; the bouquet is complex and distinguished, at once powerful yet elegant, with vanilla oak to the fore, but spice, earth and boot-polish varietal fruit are there in strong support. The palate initially shows many of the same characteristics, but the oak becomes steadily more aggressive as the wine sits in the glass and is retasted. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Full purple-red; the bouquet is complex and distinguished, at once powerful yet elegant, with vanilla oak to the fore, but spice, earth and boot-polish varietal fruit are there in strong support. The palate initially shows many of the same characteristics, but the oak becomes steadily more aggressive as the wine sits in the glass and is retasted.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Rosemount EstateP Sourced from Rosemount s Giants Creek and Roxburgh vineyards in the Upper Hunter, and made with all the skill and flair one expects from Rosemount. A variety of juice handling and settling techniques are employed, and the wine spends eleven months on lees in 50% French Allier barriques and 50% American barrels. The malolactic fermentation occurs naturally, and proceeds to completion. Pan-fried vealX 3794Z 10/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _#Rosemount Estate Reserve Chardonnay c Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) 10/7/98 % Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) /[4wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-green; the aromas are complex, with peachy fruit of medium to full intensity married with gently spicy oak on the bouquet. An expertly crafted wine, showing the skilled use of smoky/spicy oak; the finish is long, even if a fraction on the warm side. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; the aromas are complex, with peachy fruit of medium to full intensity married with gently spicy oak on the bouquet. An expertly crafted wine, showing the skilled use of smoky/spicy oak; the finish is long, even if a fraction on the warm side.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Rosemount EstateP The first regional release by Rosemount from Mudgee, but doubtless not the last. The Rosemount jigsaw puzzle continues to spread across the premium wine-growing regions of Australia, but without any compromise on quality, as evidenced by the trophy and seven gold medals which this wine has won. The 95 is a blend of 90% Shiraz and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, much of the Shiraz coming from the 40-year-old shiraz planted on the Mountain Blue vineyard, and which yielded only half a tonne to the aBIcre. Matured in a mix of French and American oak for 18 months, 100% new. Barbecued beefX 3810Z 14/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Mountain Blue Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia _.Rosemount Estate Mountain Blue Shiraz Cabernet c Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) $26-50 14/7/98 % Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) :[5wine glasses] 1995 Strong red-purple; exceptionally rich and ripe aromas with luscious blackberry, blackcurrant and spice introduce a lusciously ripe blackberry/currant flavoured palate. The fruit has swallowed up all that new oak, and the acid and tannin balance has been judged to perfection. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; exceptionally rich and ripe aromas with luscious blackberry, blackcurrant and spice introduce a lusciously ripe blackberry/currant flavoured palate. The fruit has swallowed up all that new oak, and the acid and tannin balance has been judged to perfection.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 RymillP 12.50 3As the name of the wine implies, an ultra-late harvest style picked in June. It would seem that botrytis plays only a minor role in achieving the end result, with dehydration doing much of the work. A rare style in Australia, and no doubt with a limited market, but a particularly good example, nonetheless. Asian foodX 3808Z 14/7/98a Coonawarra Traminer Sweet Sweet Z Australia Rymill June Traminer Rymill $11-15 14/7/98 Rymill [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow, with just a touch of green; the palate is rich and full with tropical apricot and cumquat aromas initially dominant, but with some Traminer spice appearing as the wine breathes. There is a similar melange of flavours on the palate, again with the varietal spice coming through at the end. Has a potent 13.5% alcohol with 124 grams of residual sugar. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow, with just a touch of green; the palate is rich and full with tropical apricot and cumquat aromas initially dominant, but with some Traminer spice appearing as the wine breathes. There is a similar melange of flavours on the palate, again with the varietal spice coming through at the end. Has a potent 13.5% alcohol with 124 grams of residual sugar.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Seldom SeenP VA wine which seems to have had a somewhat unusual history in winemaking terms, with the fermentation initiated in stainless steel, part taken to barrel and part left in steel before being reblended and then placed in older French oak. Presumably it was then taken back to tank, for it was not bottled until August 1996, yet retains freshness. NAU ShellfishX 3815Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Seldom Seen Chardonnay Seldom Seen Vineyard $16-20 14/7/98 Seldom Seen Vineyard R[2.5wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is very light, to the point of outright delicacy, with youthful citrus/melon fruit and just the faintest touch of oak. The palate seems less ripe than the 13 degrees alcohol the wine contains, with almost grassy overtones to the crisp, citrus/melon fruit. RATING: 74 @BM bold:XXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is very light, to the point of outright delicacy, with youthful citrus/melon fruit and just the faintest touch of oak. The palate seems less ripe than the 13 degrees alcohol the wine contains, with almost grassy overtones to the crisp, citrus/melon fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">74 SteinsP An extremely good wine which deservedly won a gold medal at the 1996 Australian Small Makers Wine Show, and I must say came as a considerable albeit pleasant surprise.S Rack of vealX 3816Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Steins Chardonnay Steins $11-15 14/7/98 Steins [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is stylish, with attractive barrel-ferment characters surrounding tangy melon/grapefruit characters. A wine with real verve on the palate, tangy, long and intense. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is stylish, with attractive barrel-ferment characters surrounding tangy melon/grapefruit characters. A wine with real verve on the palate, tangy, long and intense.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 SteinsP Robert Stein produced an absolutely marvellous Shiraz in 1991, dense and ripe, but also with spicy notes, and which remains a Mudgee benchmark wine.S LambX 3817Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Steins Shiraz Steins $11-15 14/7/98 Steins [2.5wine glasses] 1993 Reserve. Medium red-purple; initially rather light, with leafy/minty fruit, though some pleasant chocolatey characters came up as the wine stood in the glass. Pleasantly flavoured in a light style, with a mix of chocolate and mint flavours, but really needs more flesh. A qualified disappointment given the quality of some prior releases of Shiraz from Steins. RATING: 73 @BM bold:XXx 1993 <f"Bembo">Reserve. Medium red-purple; initially rather light, with leafy/minty fruit, though some pleasant chocolatey characters came up as the wine stood in the glass. Pleasantly flavoured in a light style, with a mix of chocolate and mint flavours, but really needs more flesh. A qualified disappointment given the quality of some prior releases of Shiraz from Steins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">73 GallantP The 5-hectare Lyncroft vineyard is owned by Geoff Slade and partner Anita Zierner, but is managed by T Gallant and, of course, the wines are made by T Gallant as part of the so-called Partnership Services.S Spiced quailX 3809Z 10/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Lyncroft Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Gallant Lyncroft Pinot Noir c T'Gallant 10/7/98 % T'Gallant 9[5wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium red, with just a touch of purple; a stylish and fragrant bouquet with an amazing array of aromas spanning oriental spices, tobacco, plums and violets. The palate is as long and as classy as the bouquet promises, lingering and tangy, in true Burgundian-style. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red, with just a touch of purple; a stylish and fragrant bouquet with an amazing array of aromas spanning oriental spices, tobacco, plums and violets. The palate is as long and as classy as the bouquet promises, lingering and tangy, in true Burgundian-style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Thistle HillP Whether Mudgee is really suited to Merlot is questionable, although it has a long history in the region thanks to Bob Roberts and Huntington Estate. This is a wine which says far more about the region than it does about the variety, but is not short of character. Spiced beefX 3818Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Thistle Hill Merlot Thistle Hill $16-20 14/7/98 Thistle Hill [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Dense purple-red; powerful, earthy fruit on the bouquet is surrounded with high-toned vanilla oak. A full-bodied, gutsy wine on the palate with lots of ripe mint and black cherry fruit, and soft but persistent tannins. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Dense purple-red; powerful, earthy fruit on the bouquet is surrounded with high-toned vanilla oak. A full-bodied, gutsy wine on the palate with lots of ripe mint and black cherry fruit, and soft but persistent tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 WildwoodP uThe progress of Pinot Noir in both Sunbury and the Macedon Ranges reminds me strongly of its first decade or so in Tasmania: in theory the climate was perfect, but with the odd exception, Pinot simply failed to live up to expectations. Then, all of a sudden, the variety (and its makers) started to feel at home. So it may prove in Sunbury; this wine certainly suggests so. Duck breastX 3798Z 14/7/98a Sunbury Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Wildwood Pinot Noir Wildwood $16-20 14/7/98 Wildwood H[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with good varietal character, driven by rich and full plummy fruit. The palate has more of that ripe, sweet, plummy fruit; good balance and mouthfeel to the plum and cherry fruit; barely any input from oak. Has developed well between 1997 and 1998. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with good varietal character, driven by rich and full plummy fruit. The palate has more of that ripe, sweet, plummy fruit; good balance and mouthfeel to the plum and cherry fruit; barely any input from oak. Has developed well between 1997 and 1998.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 YalumbaP !This wine was introduced almost 30 years after Sir Robert Menzies made his famous remark about Yalumba Claret which led to the Signature Range. Nonetheless, the connection was there, and the name was given to Yalumba s Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon when first introduced to the market. Rack of lambX 3805Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _&Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon Yalumba $16-20 14/7/98 Yalumba [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Bright red-purple; the bouquet has sweet cassis fruit of medium intensity backed by some pleasant cedary oak, the palate likewise turning around smooth, sweet fruit rather than structure or power. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Bright red-purple; the bouquet has sweet cassis fruit of medium intensity backed by some pleasant cedary oak, the palate likewise turning around smooth, sweet fruit rather than structure or power. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Yarra RidgeP 38.95 A genuine reserve wine, made in limited quantities and built from the time the grapes are picked. Hit new heights of opulence in the 1996 vintage, although the style (and the degree of oak) is bound to polarise opinions. The high rating is given as much for the bouquet (which is spectacular) as for the palate. I have to say there appears to have been significant variation in the 96 wine, and in particular the amount and type of oak. Game, jugged hareX 3795Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Yarra Ridge Reserve Pinot Noir Yarra Ridge $26-50 14/7/98 Yarra Ridge [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Dark red; the bouquet is complex, powerful, aristocratically rich and full, showing the unbridled use of oak with very strong, powerful fruit. The fore-palate is exceptionally complex and rich; the sting comes in the tail, when oak phenolics seem to build-up and unbalance the wine a little, even in the presence of food. It will be fascinating to see how the wine develops. Top gold medal winner at both the Royal Adelaide and National Wine Shows in November 1997. B RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dark red; the bouquet is complex, powerful, aristocratically rich and full, showing the unbridled use of oak with very strong, powerful fruit. The fore-palate is exceptionally complex and rich; the sting comes in the tail, when oak phenolics seem to build-up and unbalance the wine a little, even in the presence of food. It will be fascinating to see how the wine develops. Top gold medal winner at both the Royal Adelaide and National Wine Shows in November 19BD97.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 N MatawheroP Gewurztraminer was the variety which made Matawhero famous, and on the evidence of recent tastings, remains its strongest (and most reliable) performer.S Spicy Asian dishesX 3782Z 10/7/98a Gisborne Gewurztraminer White Traminer New Zealand Matawhero Gewurztraminer Matawhero Wines 10/7/98 Matawhero Wines [3wine glasses] 1994 Full yellow-straw; the bouquet is intense, with masses of canned lychee fruit aromas. The palate is unexpectedly bone-dry, and with less fruit weight than the bouquet suggests; there are no technical problems whatsoever with the wine, although it does give the impression a touch of residual sugar may have helped the wine as it has aged in bottle. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Full yellow-straw; the bouquet is intense, with masses of canned lychee fruit aromas. The palate is unexpectedly bone-dry, and with less fruit weight than the bouquet suggests; there are no technical problems whatsoever with the wine, although it does give the impression a touch of residual sugar may have helped the wine as it has aged in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 NeudorfP This is the second-tier Chardonnay from Neudorf, initially released (1994) under the Village label, but now simply called Nelson . Second tier it may be, but a useful wine by any standards.S Blue Eye codX 3785Z 14/7/98a Nelson Nelson Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Neudorf Nelson Chardonnay Neudorf Vineyards $16-20 14/7/98 Neudorf Vineyards [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, buttery/toasty bouquet leads into a big, mouthfilling wine with strong fruit on the early and mid-palate, falling away slightly on the finish. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, buttery/toasty bouquet leads into a big, mouthfilling wine with strong fruit on the early and mid-palate, falling away slightly on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 N Hau Ariki Made by Chris Lintz at Lintz Estate for Hau Ariki from estate-grown grapes. The wine is said to have been (partially) barrel-fermented in French oak, but is essentially fruit-driven.S MusselsX 4001Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Hau Ariki Sauvignon Blanc Hau Ariki Wines $16-20 14/7/98 5/12/97 Hau Ariki Wines D[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green, the wine is of medium intensity, clean, with aromas running through the riper fruit spectrum of characters. The quite tangy and intense palate, with a mix of slightly toasty (possibly oak-derived) and stone fruit characters, has both grip and structure. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green, the wine is of medium intensity, clean, with aromas running through the riper fruit spectrum of characters. The quite tangy and intense palate, with a mix of slightly toasty (possibly oak-derived) and stone fruit characters, has both grip and structure.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Walker EstateP 17Q`Made at Lintz Estate with input from James Walker and showing a professional hand on the wheel. S NAU AntipastoX 4002Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Walker Estate Riesling Walker Estate $16-20 14/7/98 8/12/97 Walker Estate 0[3wine glasses] 1997 Bright, light yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and crisp, and of medium intensity. The palate has an extra dimension of power and intensity, with slightly mineral/chalky notes running through lime-accented fruit. Could very well score a higher rating when mature. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright, light yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and crisp, and of medium intensity. The palate has an extra dimension of power and intensity, with slightly mineral/chalky notes running through lime-accented fruit. Could very well score a higher rating when mature.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 Voss EstateP One hundred per cent barrel-fermented in a blend of new and three-year-old French oak barriques, with 20% taken through malolactic fermentation. Rigorous fruit selection and skilled winemaking have done the rest.S Corn-fed chickenX 4003Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Voss Estate Reserve Chardonnay Voss Estate $21-25 14/7/98 8/12/97 Voss Estate \[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a stylish and complex bouquet with a compelling mix of toasty/creamy/cashew aromas leads into a perfectly balanced and structured wine on the palate, with fine melon varietal fruit woven through cashew notes and subtle, toasty oak. A lot of winemaker's thumbprints, but cleverly placed. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a stylish and complex bouquet with a compelling mix of toasty/creamy/cashew aromas leads into a perfectly balanced and structured wine on the palate, with fine melon varietal fruit woven through cashew notes and subtle, toasty oak. A lot of winemaker's thumbprints, but cleverly placed.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Voss EstateP *1996 was an outstanding vintage in Wellington/Wairarapa, particularly Pinot Noir. The wines are extraordinarily generous, and are continuing to develop very well in bottle. The subtle use of French oak helps a wine which is admittedly at the baroque end of the spectrum, but which cannot be denied. VenisonX 4004Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Voss Estate Pinot Noir Voss Estate $21-25 14/7/98 8/12/97 Voss Estate l[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Very deep red-purple; the bouquet is full, rich and ripe, with opulent dark plum fruit and just a hint of spicy oak. In the mouth, very rich, concentrated and voluptuous; at the far end of the scale but will mature well in bottle, for it has the requisite balance, with foresty characters certain to come through with age. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Very deep red-purple; the bouquet is full, rich and ripe, with opulent dark plum fruit and just a hint of spicy oak. In the mouth, very rich, concentrated and voluptuous; at the far end of the scale but will mature well in bottle, for it has the requisite balance, with foresty characters certain to come through with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Te KairangaP Produced from a selection of the best estate-grown grapes, the 1995 vintage spent 18 months in a mix of new and second-use French oak. S Smoked quailX 4005Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Te Kairanga Reserve Pinot Noir Te Kairanga Wines $26-50 14/7/98 8/12/97 Te Kairanga Wines [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red, still retaining some traces of purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with some secondary, bottle-developed foresty characters starting to appear. The palate has good texture, structure and length, with black cherry and plum fruit of medium weight. Pales slightly against the very opulent 96 vintage wines from other makers which were on the market at the same time. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red, still retaining some traces of purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with some secondary, bottle-developed foresty characters starting to appear. The palate has good texture, structure and length, with black cherry and plum fruit of medium weight. Pales slightly against the very opulent 96 vintage wines from other makers which were on the market at the same time.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Nga WakaP Produced from estate-grown grapes, which have been particularly sensitively handled. Barrel-fermented (35% new oak barriques) with 30% taken through malolactic fermentation and given prolonged yeast lees ageing. S Poached salmonX 4006Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Nga Waka Chardonnay Nga Waka Vineyard $26-50 14/7/98 8/12/97 Nga Waka Vineyard [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; attractive melon, nectarine and stone fruit aromas are balanced by high quality but not overly assertive French oak. Altogether an elegant wine on the palate, well balanced and harmonious, with a long finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; attractive melon, nectarine and stone fruit aromas are balanced by high quality but not overly assertive French oak. Altogether an elegant wine on the palate, well balanced and harmonious, with a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MargrainP 26Q;Made in a particularly full-blown, sometimes rustic, style.S Loin of porkX 4007Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Margrain Chardonnay Margrain Vineyard $26-50 14/7/98 8/12/97 Margrain Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a somewhat inexpressive bouquet, although ripe fruit is evident. There is nothing reticent about the palate, which is full and complex, with abundant ripe, toasty/buttery fruit in a bells-and-whistles style. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a somewhat inexpressive bouquet, although ripe fruit is evident. There is nothing reticent about the palate, which is full and complex, with abundant ripe, toasty/buttery fruit in a bells-and-whistles style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 MargrainP Winemaker Strat Canning produces wines with abundant character and flavour, at times a little too enthusiastically. There are no problems with this Riesling, however.S Sugar-cured tunaX 4008Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Margrain Riesling Margrain Vineyard $16-20 14/7/98 8/12/97 Margrain Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; strong lime and toast varietal aromas lead into a wine with good grip and fibre; there are more of those lime and toast flavours, and the sweetness, while evident provides balance. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; strong lime and toast varietal aromas lead into a wine with good grip and fibre; there are more of those lime and toast flavours, and the sweetness, while evident provides balance. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Lintz EstateP Produced from low-yielding estate-grown vines, now approaching ten years of age. The wine is cold fermented, and bottled immediately after fermentation has been stopped (typically with 7.5 grams per litre residual sugar). S SashimiX 4009Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Reserve Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Lintz Estate Reserve Riesling Lintz Estate $16-20 14/7/98 8/12/97 Lintz Estate N[5wine glasses] 1997 Bright, light green-yellow; a classically restrained and fine bouquet, crisp and clean, with nuances of lime and passionfruit. The palate delivers all the bouquet promises, with a similar range of flavours, and wonderfully clean, fine fruit; acidity and residual sugar are in perfect balance. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright, light green-yellow; a classically restrained and fine bouquet, crisp and clean, with nuances of lime and passionfruit. The palate delivers all the bouquet promises, with a similar range of flavours, and wonderfully clean, fine fruit; acidity and residual sugar are in perfect balance. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Lintz EstateP Made from almost equal quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, with just a touch of Merlot. Post-fermentation maceration (for seven days) is followed by ten months in oak barriques on fine lees. S Venison in red wine sauceX 4010Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand Lintz Estate Cabernet Merlot Lintz Estate $26-50 14/7/98 8/12/97 Lintz Estate [4wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; a complex bouquet, showing quite ripe fruit with some gamey/earthy notes. There are very interesting flavours on the palate with red berry fruits softened by distinct gamey barnyard characters which are far from unpleasant. Persistent tannins run through the palate, all in all reflecting an extremely low yield of less than a tonne per acre and unusual levels of ripeness. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a complex bouquet, showing quite ripe fruit with some gamey/earthy notes. There are very interesting flavours on the palate with red berry fruits softened by distinct gamey barnyard characters which are far from unpleasant. Persistent tannins run through the palate, all in all reflecting an extremely low yield of less than a tonne per acre and unusual levels of ripeness.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 N Blue RockP One of the very few New Zealand Rieslings to be made without any residual sugar. If nothing else, it shows why everyone else leaves at least some sugar in their Riesling, for this really is spartan stuff.S OystersX 4011Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Blue Rock Riesling Blue Rock Vineyard $11-15 14/7/98 8/12/97 Blue Rock Vineyard [3wine glasses] 1995 Light green-yellow; a dry, crisp stony/minerally bouquet warns of an austere, bone-dry palate with inevitably pronounced acidity on the finish. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a dry, crisp stony/minerally bouquet warns of an austere, bone-dry palate with inevitably pronounced acidity on the finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 N Blue RockP A fruit-driven style, matured for six months in older oak barriques. Like the riesling, an uncompromising approach to winemaking and to wine style.S Spiced lambX 4012Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand Blue Rock Cabernet Sauvignon Blue Rock Vineyard $16-20 14/7/98 8/12/97 Blue Rock Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Good red-purple; strong cassis berry varietal fruit with earthy tones picks up on a powerful earthy cabernet, proclaiming its cool-grown origins and with undoubted character. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Good red-purple; strong cassis berry varietal fruit with earthy tones picks up on a powerful earthy cabernet, proclaiming its cool-grown origins and with undoubted character.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 MargrainP 26Q9A slightly rustic wine, but does have varietal character.S Smoked duckX 4013Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Margrain Pinot Noir Margrain Vineyard $26-50 14/7/98 8/12/97 Margrain Vineyard 2[3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with reasonable varietal character in a sappy/strawberry/cherry range, but the palate is fairly acidic, lacking the texture and structure one expects from Wairarapa Pinot in such a good vintage. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with reasonable varietal character in a sappy/strawberry/cherry range, but the palate is fairly acidic, lacking the texture and structure one expects from Wairarapa Pinot in such a good vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Muirlea RiseP 95 and 96 vintages were all tasted late in 1997. The impact of vintage was profound, ranging from an exceedingly dry, sappy/earthy 95 to an over-ripe, Porty 94. The 96 was the best of the three wines. S Ragout of venisonX 4014Y 14/7/98 a Wairarapa Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Muirlea Rise Pinot Noir Muirlea Rise $26-50 14/7/98 8/12/97 Muirlea Rise [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is slightly jammy, with boiled confection aromas which are nonetheless varietally based. There is a mix of strawberry and plum on the palate, with echoes of that confectionery bouquet, but far from unpleasant. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is slightly jammy, with boiled confection aromas which are nonetheless varietally based. There is a mix of strawberry and plum on the palate, with echoes of that confectionery bouquet, but far from unpleasant.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Murdoch James EstateP The first vintage (of 200 cases) from 1993 won a gold medal at the 1995 Easter Show, and succeeding vintages have done even better. The Wairarapa climate, skilled viticulture and skilled winemaking do the rest.S VenisonX 4015Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Murdoch James Estate Pinot Noir Murdoch James Estate $26-50 14/7/98 8/12/97 Murdoch James Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; generous cherry and plum fruit aromas as complexed by touches of spice and subtle oak on the bouquet. A stylish wine with very good weight and balance, finishing with attractive, soft fruit, and almost milky oak tannins. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; generous cherry and plum fruit aromas as complexed by touches of spice and subtle oak on the bouquet. A stylish wine with very good weight and balance, finishing with attractive, soft fruit, and almost milky oak tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Murdoch James EstateP Growers are experimenting with shiraz up and down the length of New Zealand. So far, at least, Hawke's Bay is providing most of the excitement. The surprising thing about this wine is that there is not more pepper and/or spice evident.S Lamb filletsX 4016Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Shiraz Shiraz New Zealand Murdoch James Estate Shiraz Murdoch James Estate $21-25 14/7/98 8/12/97 Murdoch James Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with soft, dark berry fruits; the palate is well structured and balanced, but lacks varietal sparkle and definition. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with soft, dark berry fruits; the palate is well structured and balanced, but lacks varietal sparkle and definition. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Walnut RidgeP 22QbSignificantly the best of the Pinot Noirs made between 1994 and 1996, and a very attractive wine. S Fresh salmonX 4017Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Walnut Ridge Pinot Noir Walnut Ridge $21-25 14/7/98 8/12/97 Walnut Ridge [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium red-purple; lively, clearly accented cherry and plum varietal fruit aromas lead into a well-made, nicely balanced palate with more of that cherry and plum fruit; soft tannins and subtle oak in support. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-purple; lively, clearly accented cherry and plum varietal fruit aromas lead into a well-made, nicely balanced palate with more of that cherry and plum fruit; soft tannins and subtle oak in support.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 N Dry RiverP 28QlAcknowledged by all to be a New Zealand classic, produced in tiny quantities from heavily botrytised grapes.S Fruit tartX 4018Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Botrytis Selection Riesling Sweet Sweet New Zealand _%Dry River Botrytis Selection Riesling c Dry River $26-50 14/7/98 8/12/97 % Dry River [5wine glasses] 1996 Bright, light yellow-green; intense lime/tropical aromas and flavours run through a beautifully made wine, with tremendous length to the palate, and perfect acidity on the finish to balance the luscious botrytised fruit. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright, light yellow-green; intense lime/tropical aromas and flavours run through a beautifully made wine, with tremendous length to the palate, and perfect acidity on the finish to balance the luscious botrytised fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Diamond ValleyP 19.75 The Diamond Valley Blue Label denotes wines made from grapes grown by others in the Yarra Valley, and is roughly half the price of the Estate version. It tends to be lighter in body and less complex than the Estate, but still shows David Lance's sure touch with the variety. Seared salmonX 4019Y 14/7/98 Yarra Valley Blue Label Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _$Diamond Valley Blue Label Pinot Noir Diamond Valley Vineyards $16-20 14/7/98 8/12/97 Diamond Valley Vineyards h[4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium red-purple; in typical Diamond Valley-style, shows ripe, slightly jammy fruit on the bouquet, with abundant, sweet cherry/plum varietal flavour on the palate. The slight touch of jamminess is not the least bit offensive, simply providing the wine with a distinctive character. The oak influence is subtle. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-purple; in typical Diamond Valley-style, shows ripe, slightly jammy fruit on the bouquet, with abundant, sweet cherry/plum varietal flavour on the palate. The slight touch of jamminess is not the least bit offensive, simply providing the wine with a distinctive character. The oak influence is subtle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Domaine ChandonP Unlike the Domaine Chandon sparkling wines, sourced entirely from the Yarra Valley and principally from the estate vineyards surrounding the winery. Generously flavoured, but perhaps still finding its way in terms of style.S Smoked quailX 4020Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Green Point Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _&Domaine Chandon Green Point Pinot Noir Domaine Chandon $16-20 14/7/98 8/12/97 Domaine Chandon V[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; the medium intensity bouquet is clean, with solid strawberry and plum fruit augmented by high-quality oak. The palate is complex, but relatively advanced, sappy and long, with a hint of tobacco leaf. Just seems to lack the piercing fruit of the best of the 96 Yarra Valley Pinots. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; the medium intensity bouquet is clean, with solid strawberry and plum fruit augmented by high-quality oak. The palate is complex, but relatively advanced, sappy and long, with a hint of tobacco leaf. Just seems to lack the piercing fruit of the best of the 96 Yarra Valley Pinots.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Phillip Island VineyardP A blend of Gippsland and Yarra Valley grapes and produced for sale only at the Phillip Island Vineyard cellar door. Won two trophies at the 1997 Victorian Wines Show, Best Pinot Noir and Best Wine of Show.S Smoked quailX 4021Y 14/7/98a Gippsland The Nobbies Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _.Phillip Island Vineyard The Nobbies Pinot Noir Phillip Island Vineyard $21-25 14/7/98 8/12/97 Phillip Island Vineyard [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the clean, generous bouquet is followed by a supple, smooth palate with very flavoursome plum and dark berry fruit. A wine which will have broad appeal thanks to that rich fruit. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the clean, generous bouquet is followed by a supple, smooth palate with very flavoursome plum and dark berry fruit. A wine which will have broad appeal thanks to that rich fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 St HubertsP St Huberts Pinot Noir has always lived in the shadow of its far superior Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. How much this has been due to vineyard resources, and how much to winemaking technique, is open to question. However, the 96 vintage (followed by the 97) cannot be ignored, even if I am no great admirer of the Leviathan-style of the 96 (which, incidentally, won the silver medal at the 1997 Concours des Vins du Victoria). Strong red meat dishesX 4022Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia St Huberts Pinot Noir St Huberts $16-20 14/7/98 8/12/97 St Huberts [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full red-purple; a solid, very ripe, slightly gamey bouquet with plummy fruit, followed by an even more powerful palate, with abundant ripe fruit, and considerable complexity. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a solid, very ripe, slightly gamey bouquet with plummy fruit, followed by an even more powerful palate, with abundant ripe fruit, and considerable complexity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 BrokenwoodP A blend of McLaren Vale and Hunter Shiraz which demonstrates that cross-regional blending is not the exclusive preserve of the big companies. Nonetheless, it was Roger Warren, master winemaker at Hardys during the 1950s and 60s who first realised the synergies to be obtained from blending Hunter and McLaren Vale Shiraz, and he would no doubt be pleased to see the continuation of the tradition. The wine is matured in a mix of new and one-year-old American oak barriques for 16 months. Barbecued leg of lambX 4023Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Brokenwood Shiraz Brokenwood $16-20 14/7/98 9/12/97 Brokenwood [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; a powerful bouquet with concentrated black cherry, blackberry and chocolate-accented fruit supported by surprisingly subtle American oak. The palate, too, is driven by its excellent fruit flavours, with red and blackberry chocolate-tinged flavours rounded off with attractive oak, appropriate tannins and firm acidity. Should age beautifully. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; a powerful bouquet with concentrated black cherry, blackberry and chocolate-accented fruit supported by surprisingly subtle American oak. The palate, too, is driven by its excellent fruit flavours, with red and blackberry chocolate-tinged flavours rounded off with attractive oak, appropriate tannins and firm acidity. Should age beautifully.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 MitcheltonP 15.95 Yet another new label from Mitchelton, using a blend of 85% Shiraz and 15% Grenache and Mourvedre. I suspect this has replaced the former Mitchelton III Red.S Braised duckX 4024Y 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Goulburn Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _!Mitchelton Goulburn Valley Shiraz Mitchelton $11-15 14/7/98 9/12/97 Mitchelton b[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium purple-red; a high-toned bouquet with a mix of juicy berry aromas and a quite pronounced overlay of mint. The palate is complex and interesting; the grenache seems to have made a major contribution to what are quite complex fruit flavours, again with a strong strand of Central Victorian mint coming through. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; a high-toned bouquet with a mix of juicy berry aromas and a quite pronounced overlay of mint. The palate is complex and interesting; the grenache seems to have made a major contribution to what are quite complex fruit flavours, again with a strong strand of Central Victorian mint coming through.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 TatachillaP Foundation Shiraz is Tatachilla's flag-bearer, taking its name from the foundation stone of the winery which was laid in place in 1901 by founder Cyril Pridmore. Open fermentation, using a mixture of heading down boards and plunging is followed by partial barrel fermentation, before the wine is matured in a mix of predominantly American (70% new) oak for 18 months. The 95 was the top gold medal winner in Class 30 (Shiraz, soft finish 95 and older) at the 1997 National Wine Show; also win Boner of the Fesq Dorado Trophy for Best Medium Bodied Dry Red at the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition. Kangaroo filletX 4025Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Foundation Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Tatachilla Foundation Shiraz Tatachilla $21-25 14/7/98 9/12/97 Tatachilla [5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; potent red and black cherry fruit aromas are interwoven through obvious vanillin American oak on the bouquet. The voluptuous palate, with its glossy cherry and blackberry fruit, once again surrounded by sweet vanillin oak, is an enormously impressive example of a top show style. Masses of flavour, but not over-extracted, and should develop exceptionally well. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; potent red and black cherry fruit aromas are interwoven through obvious vanillin American oak on the bouquet. The voluptuous palate, with its glossy cherry and blackberry fruit, once again surrounded by sweet vanillin oak, is an enormously impressive example of a top show style. Masses of flavour, but not over-extracted, and should develop exceptionally well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Devil's LairP A variable blend, with Merlot predominant, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and some Cabernet Franc. Matured in predominantly used French oak for 15 months. One hundred per cent Margaret River origin.S Yearling beefX 1026Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Fifth Leg Dry Red Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Devil's Lair Fifth Leg Dry Red Devil's Lair $16-20 14/7/98 9/12/97 Devil's Lair C[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, with a mix of berry, earth, leaf and mint; subtle oak. The palate has more weight and fruit richness than the bouquet suggests, clean, with fresh red and blackcurrant fruit, finishing with well-balanced tannins. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, with a mix of berry, earth, leaf and mint; subtle oak. The palate has more weight and fruit richness than the bouquet suggests, clean, with fresh red and blackcurrant fruit, finishing with well-balanced tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 The top end of the Italian varietal range created by Garry Crittenden; a blend of Nebbiolo and Barbera, principally sourced from the King Valley in Victoria, and which works extremely well.S NAU Osso bucoX 4027Y 14/7/98 Mornington Peninsula Garry Crittenden i Riserva Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Garry Crittenden i Riserva Dromana Estate $16-20 14/7/98 9/12/97 Dromana Estate 8[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; attractive cedary/earthy aromas introduce a wine which is in authentic Italian-style, firm and quite tannic on the palate, and formidable to taste without food. The flavours are in the cedary/briary/earthy spectrum, finishing with firm but not abrasive tannins. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; attractive cedary/earthy aromas introduce a wine which is in authentic Italian-style, firm and quite tannic on the palate, and formidable to taste without food. The flavours are in the cedary/briary/earthy spectrum, finishing with firm but not abrasive tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Vasse FelixP Heytesbury is the flagship red of Vasse Felix, taking its name from Heytesbury Holdings, the company led by Janet Holmes Court since the death of her husband, and which owns Vasse Felix. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec which has been generously oaked. Beef BordelaiseX 4028Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Heytesbury Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Vasse Felix Heytesbury Vasse Felix $26-50 14/7/98 9/12/97 Vasse Felix #[4wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; the bouquet is scented and aromatic with a potent mix of leaf, spice and mint, together with oak. The palate is potent and youthful with high-toned, slightly edgy fruit, and not showing the same lusciously ripe characters of the 95. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; the bouquet is scented and aromatic with a potent mix of leaf, spice and mint, together with oak. The palate is potent and youthful with high-toned, slightly edgy fruit, and not showing the same lusciously ripe characters of the 95.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 PlantagenetP First made in 1993 from a blend of Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon grown on the Bouverie Vineyard (estate-owned) which was planted in 1968. Matured for 18 months in predominantly new French oak barriques.S Tea-smoked lambX 4029Y 14/7/98a Great Southern Henry II Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Plantagenet Henry II Plantagenet $26-50 14/7/98 9/12/97 Plantagenet @[4.5wine glasses] 1993 Medium to full red; a supremely elegant mix of sweet fruit and fine, gently cedary oak introduce a wine which is absolutely evocative of a ripe Bordeaux. Excellent fine-grained tannins run throughout a mix of red berry and cedar flavours, giving the wine unusually silky texture. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1993 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red; a supremely elegant mix of sweet fruit and fine, gently cedary oak introduce a wine which is absolutely evocative of a ripe Bordeaux. Excellent fine-grained tannins run throughout a mix of red berry and cedar flavours, giving the wine unusually silky texture.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Brookland ValleyP 26.95Q A wine which does nothing to answer the eternal question asked in Australia: what should Merlot taste like? For all that, a new direction for Brookland Valley, and a variety which does appear suited to the Margaret River region.S Barbecued beefX 4030Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Brookland Valley Merlot Brookland Valley $26-50 14/7/98 9/12/97 Brookland Valley W[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; abundant sweet vanilla oak submerges the fruit on the bouquet, with some minty notes lurking underneath. A substantial wine on the palate with sweet, minty fruit and lots and lots of oak. I'm not sure this is what the variety is all about, but the wine certainly has flavour. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; abundant sweet vanilla oak submerges the fruit on the bouquet, with some minty notes lurking underneath. A substantial wine on the palate with sweet, minty fruit and lots and lots of oak. I'm not sure this is what the variety is all about, but the wine certainly has flavour.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 PetalumaP Two vintages are typically available at any one time, one on indent for physical delivery 12 months hence, and one representing the balance of the previous year's indent offering sold through normal commercial channels. An interesting way to go, with a substantial cost saving between the indent and normal release wine (the indent price being $30 per bottle). Both the 94 and 95 are at the top end of Australian red winemaking, without definitively answering the question concerning the tastB e of Merlot. VealX 4031Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Petaluma Merlot Petaluma $26-50 14/7/98 9/12/97 Petaluma [5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; a thrusting bouquet with fragrant, almost medicinal, notes running through to red berry and earth. A powerhouse in the mouth, which takes Merlot to another dimension, with inimitable slightly medicinal flavours. RATING: 95 [5wine glasses] 1995 Strong red-purple; a spotlessly clean bouquet with fruit and oak seamlessly interwoven in a display of berry, cedar and more earthy notes leads onto a palate with a mix of red berry, earth and leaf flB avours, perhaps as indicative of Merlot as any example from Australia. The wine has excellent structure and weight, with classy oak-handling throughout. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a thrusting bouquet with fragrant, almost medicinal, notes running through to red berry and earth. A powerhouse in the mouth, which takes Merlot to another dimension, with inimitable slightly medicinal flavours.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; a spotlessly clean bouquet with fruit and oak seamlessly interwoven in a display of berry, cedar and more earthy note s leads onto a palate with a mix of red berry, earth and leaf flavours, perhaps as indicative of Merlot as any example from Australia. The wine has excellent structure and weight, with classy oak-handling throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Bowen EstateP 21.50 A relatively new direction for Bowen Estate, and intriguingly made (at least on the evidence of the 95) in a very different style from the normal Bowen Estate reds, earlier picked and with less opulently ripe flavour.S LasagneX 4032Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc Cabernet Blends Z Australia _5Bowen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc Bowen Estate $21-25 14/7/98 9/12/97 Bowen Estate [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red, with just a touch of purple; the berry and earth fruit aromas have an attractive, faintly spicy edge; the palate proclaims its Bordeaux-blend base, with lively flavours and good length to a pleasantly herbaceous finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red, with just a touch of purple; the berry and earth fruit aromas have an attractive, faintly spicy edge; the palate proclaims its Bordeaux-blend base, with lively flavours and good length to a pleasantly herbaceous finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 N Jim BarryP The blend of Cabernet and Malbec is a Clare Valley specialty, pioneered by Leasingham in the vinous dawn of time. Malbec flourishes in the Clare Valley as in few parts of Australia, adding a juicy sweetness to the formidable power of Clare Valley Cabernet. OxtailX 4033Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley McCrae Wood Cabernet Malbec Cabernet Blends Z Australia _%Jim Barry McCrae Wood Cabernet Malbec Jim Barry Wines $26-50 14/7/98 9/12/97 Jim Barry Wines H[4wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; extremely ripe, lush berry and liquorice fruit intermingles with cedar/sandalwood/spice-accented oak on the bouquet. The palate displays almost riotous fruit with distinct jammy Malbec varietal flavour together with sundry spices; quite potent tannins come on the finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; extremely ripe, lush berry and liquorice fruit intermingles with cedar/sandalwood/spice-accented oak on the bouquet. The palate displays almost riotous fruit with distinct jammy Malbec varietal flavour together with sundry spices; quite potent tannins come on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 ArenbergP The name comes from a road adjoining the vineyard (which in fact has four different names along parts of its not very great length, which is somehow apppropriate). It spends 18 months in new and used French and American oak barriques.S Leave it in the cellarX 4035Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Arenberg The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon Arenberg $26-50 14/7/98 16/12/97 Arenberg W[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a potent bouquet with masses of cassis, blackberry and blackcurrant fruit; clean subtle oak. The palate is rather raw and astringent shortly after bottling, with fairly tough tannins, certainly needs considerable time in bottle; the points may prove to be a harsh assessment. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a potent bouquet with masses of cassis, blackberry and blackcurrant fruit; clean subtle oak. The palate is rather raw and astringent shortly after bottling, with fairly tough tannins, certainly needs considerable time in bottle; the points may prove to be a harsh assessment.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Phillip Island VineyardP In fact produced from grapes grown solely in the Yarra Valley, and no doubt deliberately made in a light, early-drinking style. Well priced given its provenance.S Cold meat dishesX 4036Y 14/7/98a Gippsland Berrys Beach Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _7Phillip Island Vineyard Berrys Beach Cabernet Sauvignon Phillip Island Vineyard $16-20 14/7/98 17/12/97 Phillip Island Vineyard [3wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium red; light, leafy/spicy cool-climate aromas lead on to a palate in similar style, faintly medicinal, and with more of those spicy/leafy flavours, finishing with very light tannins. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red; light, leafy/spicy cool-climate aromas lead on to a palate in similar style, faintly medicinal, and with more of those spicy/leafy flavours, finishing with very light tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 N MountadamP 32Q~As with all of the wines under the premium Mountadam label, estate-grown, and made from vines which are now over 20 years old.S Lamb cutletsX 4037Y 14/7/98a Eden Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Mountadam Cabernet Sauvignon c Mountadam $26-50 14/7/98 17/12/97 % Mountadam )[3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; the bottle development has seen the emergence of secondary fruit aromas in an earthy/chocolatey spectrum, with subtle oak in support. There is a pleasant mix of berry, leaf, mint and chocolate flavours on a restrained and stylish palate. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bottle development has seen the emergence of secondary fruit aromas in an earthy/chocolatey spectrum, with subtle oak in support. There is a pleasant mix of berry, leaf, mint and chocolate flavours on a restrained and stylish palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Andrew GarrettP AI'm not too sure about the brand name for this wine, as it recalls a Kaiser Stuhl Bold Red which failed dismally 20 years ago. This is in fact a far better wine than either the name or the price would suggest, and what is more has been given Rolls Royce oak treatment in new French and American oak barrels for 12 months. Barbecued red meatX 4039Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Andrew Garrett Bold Shiraz Andrew Garrett $11-15 14/7/98 18/12/97 Andrew Garrett /[4wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; masses of dark cherry fruit with some more briary undertones, and subtle oak on the bouquet. The palate shows rather more vanillin American oak than does the bouquet, but works well, for there is plenty of rich, sweet fruit to justify that oak. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; masses of dark cherry fruit with some more briary undertones, and subtle oak on the bouquet. The palate shows rather more vanillin American oak than does the bouquet, but works well, for there is plenty of rich, sweet fruit to justify that oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Kingston EstateP 9.95Q Produced from a select band of Riverland growers with separate, small-batch fermentation and maturation in American oak barrels for 12 months. S Spaghetti bologneseX 4040Y 14/7/98a Riverland Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Kingston Estate Shiraz Kingston Estate e under $10 14/7/98 18/12/97 Kingston Estate [3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red; tangy lemon and vanilla oak is very evident, but so is gently spicy fruit on the bouquet. The wine is oaky, but has some attractive spicy/earthy fruit, and finishes well. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red; tangy lemon and vanilla oak is very evident, but so is gently spicy fruit on the bouquet. The wine is oaky, but has some attractive spicy/earthy fruit, and finishes well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Geoff MerrillP 17.50 A blend of 75% McLaren Vale and 25% Goulburn Valley (doubtless ex-Chateau Tahbilk) grapes which were, in typical Merrill fashion, cold-fermented and then matured in a mix of new and used American oak for 24 months. Very much in the idiomatic style of the maker. Ragout of vealX 4041Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Premium Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Geoff Merrill Premium Shiraz Geoff Merrill $16-20 14/7/98 19/12/97 Geoff Merrill #[4wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; quite fragrant (as the cold fermentation would suggest), clean and fresh; a marked lemon and vanilla oak influence is also immediately apparent. A well-made, elegant wine on the palate, with fresh berry fruit and nicely balanced oak. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; quite fragrant (as the cold fermentation would suggest), clean and fresh; a marked lemon and vanilla oak influence is also immediately apparent. A well-made, elegant wine on the palate, with fresh berry fruit and nicely balanced oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Charles Sturt UniversityP A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grown on Charles Sturt University's own vineyards at Wagga Wagga and Shiraz from Heathcote in Victoria. The wine is matured for 12 months in a mix of American and French oak and represents extraordinarily good value for money. NAU Rare beefX 4042Y 14/7/98a Other Wineries of NSW Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _/Charles Sturt University Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Charles Sturt University Winery $11-15 14/7/98 19/12/97 Charles Sturt University Winery [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; a very rich, ripe and full bouquet with abundant dark berry fruit leads on to a rich and concentrated palate with dark cherry and berry fruit flavours with balanced tannins on the finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; a very rich, ripe and full bouquet with abundant dark berry fruit leads on to a rich and concentrated palate with dark cherry and berry fruit flavours with balanced tannins on the finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 HardysP 12.99 A continuation of the brand extension from the nucleus of Sir James sparkling wines, and now covering mid-priced table wines, both white and red. This is a blend of McLaren Vale, Coonawarra and Padthaway-grown grapes matured in a mix of French and American oak. Rack of lambX 4043Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale M Sir James Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _'Hardys Sir James Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Hardys $11-15 14/7/98 19/12/97 Hardys [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; dense cedar, chocolate and dark berry aromas with masses of oak give way to a mix of oak and tannin on the palate which seriously threaten the balance of the wine. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; dense cedar, chocolate and dark berry aromas with masses of oak give way to a mix of oak and tannin on the palate which seriously threaten the balance of the wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 RossettoP 12.50 Made solely from Riverina-grown grapes, and one of a suite of wines from this region which are forcing a reappraisal of the ability of the Riverina to produce very good red wine. A trophy and gold medal winner at the Swan Hill Wine Show, and matured in American oak. Ravioli X 4044Y 14/7/98a Riverina Promenade Riverina Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _+Rossetto Promenade Riverina Cabernet Merlot Rossetto $11-15 14/7/98 19/12/97 Rossetto [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; a clean, moderately oaky bouquet with pleasantly sweet fruit; both it and the palate are starting to show some development, with a mix of leafy/herbaceous Cabernet and sweeter Merlot fruit on the palate. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; a clean, moderately oaky bouquet with pleasantly sweet fruit; both it and the palate are starting to show some development, with a mix of leafy/herbaceous Cabernet and sweeter Merlot fruit on the palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 PenfoldsP Introduced in the mid-1990s to fill the volume gap underneath Koonunga Hill, and made in very substantial quantities. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Ruby Cabernet drawn from regions spread across South Eastern Australia. Does not aspire to greatness, but does aspire to value. Takeaway foodX 4045Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Rawsons Retreat Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _(Penfolds Rawsons Retreat Cabernet Shiraz Penfolds e under $10 14/7/98 19/12/97 Penfolds '[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; there are fresh bright fruit aromas, pleasantly juicy on the bouquet with just a hint of oak. There are equivalently bright minty/berry fruit flavours on the palate; the oak influence is restrained, and the tannins appropriately light. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; there are fresh bright fruit aromas, pleasantly juicy on the bouquet with just a hint of oak. There are equivalently bright minty/berry fruit flavours on the palate; the oak influence is restrained, and the tannins appropriately light.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 SandalfordP 11.95Q3A blend of Swan Valley-sourced Cabernet and Shiraz.S Rich stewsX 4046Y 14/7/98a Swan District M Caversham Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _$Sandalford Caversham Cabernet Shiraz Sandalford $11-15 14/7/98 19/12/97 Sandalford [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a solid bouquet, with blackberry fruit aromas leads into a strongly flavoured palate with abundant, ripe sweet berry fruits and soft tannins. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a solid bouquet, with blackberry fruit aromas leads into a strongly flavoured palate with abundant, ripe sweet berry fruits and soft tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 De BortoliP Yet another wine from the Riverina suggesting that the link between yield and quality has sunk home, and that growers are heeding the call of winemakers for grapes with better colour, flavour and chemical balance. S PizzaX 4047Y 14/7/98a Riverina Deen De Bortoli Vat 9 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _3De Bortoli Deen De Bortoli Vat 9 Cabernet Sauvignon De Bortoli e under $10 14/7/98 19/12/97 De Bortoli [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; fresh earthy/berry fruit aromas with just a hint of oak are followed by a fresh and lively juicy/berry flavoured palate with minimal oak input and which almost certainly came direct ex-tank to bottle without barrel maturation. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; fresh earthy/berry fruit aromas with just a hint of oak are followed by a fresh and lively juicy/berry flavoured palate with minimal oak input and which almost certainly came direct ex-tank to bottle without barrel maturation. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 KrondorfP A new range, and I have to admit to a strong allergic reaction to the concept of Family Reserve being produced by a winery owned by one of the largest brewing companies in the world, Fosters Brewing Group. Brand manager and label quibbles to one side, this is a blend of McLaren Vale, Coonawarra and Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon, part barrel-fermented in French oak and then matured in a mix of French and American. All in all, deserves better than the name it has been given. TongueX 4048Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _*Krondorf Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Krondorf $16-20 14/7/98 19/12/97 Krondorf [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red; a most attractive bouquet with stylish fruit and French oak neatly balanced and integrated; there is more attractive blackberry fruit on the palate with excellent oak balance and integration. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red; a most attractive bouquet with stylish fruit and French oak neatly balanced and integrated; there is more attractive blackberry fruit on the palate with excellent oak balance and integration. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 HoughtonP 10.95Q Produced from Houghton's large Frankland River vineyard, and typically has a somewhat unusual passionfruit aroma, which puts it apart from many more conventional Rieslings. S SaladX 4049Y 14/7/98a Swan District Frankland River Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _!Houghton Frankland River Riesling Houghton e under $10 14/7/98 19/12/97 Houghton [4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a crisp, light but fragrant passionfruit-accented bouquet leads into a spotlessly clean, delicate and crisp palate. There isn't a lot of flesh or weight here but I find the filigreed delicacy attractive. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a crisp, light but fragrant passionfruit-accented bouquet leads into a spotlessly clean, delicate and crisp palate. There isn't a lot of flesh or weight here but I find the filigreed delicacy attractive.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 SandalfordP 13.95 "The 1996 was the first 100% Mount Barker Riesling released by Sandalford since 1992. Sandalford felt the quality of the wine was outstanding, and I can but agree, although it is in the family of Mount Barker Rieslings with highly floral characteristics which take it outside the mainstream. SashimiX 4050Y 14/7/98a Swan District Margaret River Mount Barker Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _/Sandalford Margaret River Mount Barker Riesling Sandalford $11-15 14/7/98 19/12/97 Sandalford [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a super-fragrant bouquet with striking passionfruit/lime aromas, and an array of flavours on the palate from passionfruit to nettle. Long finish to a strikingly different wine. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a super-fragrant bouquet with striking passionfruit/lime aromas, and an array of flavours on the palate from passionfruit to nettle. Long finish to a strikingly different wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Geoff MerrillP A new label in the Geoff Merrill range. This particular wine is a blend of 89% McLaren Vale and 11% Padthaway material which (appropriately) has not been given any oak maturation.S SeafoodX 4051Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Premium Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _%Geoff Merrill Premium Sauvignon Blanc Geoff Merrill $11-15 14/7/98 19/12/97 Geoff Merrill [4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp, clean and firm with herbaceous fruit aromas. The palate has good weight and structure, with length and grip to the finish, although the varietal character is in the subdued minerally/herbal spectrum. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp, clean and firm with herbaceous fruit aromas. The palate has good weight and structure, with length and grip to the finish, although the varietal character is in the subdued minerally/herbal spectrum.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Hanging RockP The distinctive gingham check label of the Hanging Rock Picnic White and Red is an exceptional piece of label design. From time to time, the wine can be equally striking, as this Colombard/Chardonnay blend was in 1997.S NAU Caf foodX 4052Y 14/7/98a Macedon Picnic White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Hanging Rock Picnic White Hanging Rock Winery e under $10 14/7/98 19/12/97 Hanging Rock Winery [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a lively, lifted bouquet with passionfruit aromatics is followed by an equally lively palate, with more of those passionfruit accents, and a nicely balanced flick of residual sugar. Smart winemaking. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a lively, lifted bouquet with passionfruit aromatics is followed by an equally lively palate, with more of those passionfruit accents, and a nicely balanced flick of residual sugar. Smart winemaking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 MitcheltonP 14.95 CMitchelton adopts precisely the opposite approach to Chateau Tahbilk by seeking to invest its Marsanne with complexity from the word go. For many years the approach was to give the wine substantial oak, but the approach is now more subtle. The Marsanne is barrel-fermented, and also has 15% Viognier and Roussane included. Creamy pastaX 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Goulburn Valley Marsanne White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _#Mitchelton Goulburn Valley Marsanne Mitchelton $11-15 14/7/98 19/12/97 Mitchelton J[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex with attractive fruit and spicy oak. A wine with lots of character on the palate, with well-handled oak adding a dimension, likewise the Viognier and Roussane components. Not overblown, nor a heavyweight, and may well repay medium term cellaring. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex with attractive fruit and spicy oak. A wine with lots of character on the palate, with well-handled oak adding a dimension, likewise the Viognier and Roussane components. Not overblown, nor a heavyweight, and may well repay medium term cellaring.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Capel ValeP 14.50 Drawn from the same spread of vineyard sources utilised by Capel Vale in making its conventional (i.e. wooded) Chardonnays, and neatly puts an argument that regional blending adds to complexity. Certainly one of the better unwooded Chardonnays on the market. Terrine of salmonX 4054Y 14/7/98a Geographe Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Capel Vale CV Unwooded Chardonnay Capel Vale $11-15 14/7/98 19/12/97 Capel Vale @[4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is fragrant, with a mix of passionfruit, melon and white peach. The palate is slightly more herbaceous than the bouquet, but melon and passionfruit flavours do reappear, and while light and crisp, it has pleasant mouthfeel and a harmonious finish. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is fragrant, with a mix of passionfruit, melon and white peach. The palate is slightly more herbaceous than the bouquet, but melon and passionfruit flavours do reappear, and while light and crisp, it has pleasant mouthfeel and a harmonious finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Cowra EstateP 11.99 @The principal wine produced by Cowra Estate, drawn in part from vineyards which in bygone days were responsible for the first Petaluma Chardonnays, and thereafter the early Rothbury Estate Chardonnays. Always reliable wine. Six family-owned vineyards form the viticultural base from which Cowra Estate draws its grapes. Seafood pastaX 4055Y 14/7/98a Cowra Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Cowra Estate Chardonnay Cowra Estate $11-15 14/7/98 19/12/97 Cowra Estate [3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, of moderate intensity, with a touch of citrus running along with the more typical peach. The palate is clean and fresh, with quite good length, and minimal oak influence. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, of moderate intensity, with a touch of citrus running along with the more typical peach. The palate is clean and fresh, with quite good length, and minimal oak influence.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 OrlandoP 19.95 In 1962 Colin Gramp, then Orlando's managing director, embarked on one of the great romantic follies: establishing a riesling vineyard on a vineyard entirely composed of rock schist (hence steingarten , or garden of stones) at a height of 490 metres on the East Barossa Ranges. Planted at a density of 6000 vines per hectare, the yields were nonetheless minuscule, and during the latter part of the 60s and 70s this was one of the most celebrated of all Rieslings. Commercial reality has sin ce turned the wine into a brand, the back label freely admitting that Steingarten is used, where possible, as a base for the wine. In other words, in some years there may be a significant contribution from the Steingarten Vineyard, but in other years not necessarily so. ed prawnsX 4056Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Steingarten Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Orlando Steingarten Riesling Orlando $16-20 14/7/98 6/1/98 Orlando [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Bright yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with a mix of lime, mineral and toast, the palate very tight, youthful and crisp; totally unevolved. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with a mix of lime, mineral and toast, the palate very tight, youthful and crisp; totally unevolved.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 MaxwellP Part of a suite of white wines from Maxwell which rely on varietal character and depth of flavour rather than artifice in the winery, and underlining the fact that McLaren Vale has always been a superior area for the growing and making of Sauvignon Blanc.S Crab or shellfishX 4057Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Maxwell Sauvignon Blanc Maxwell Wines $11-15 14/7/98 6/1/98 Maxwell Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium green-yellow; a clean, firm bouquet of medium intensity although a little subdued. The palate is crisp and clean with a mix of mineral and herbaceous flavours, all one could expect at the price. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; a clean, firm bouquet of medium intensity although a little subdued. The palate is crisp and clean with a mix of mineral and herbaceous flavours, all one could expect at the price.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Richard HamiltonP 10.95Q A blend of Chenin Blanc and Semillon first released in 1996, unashamedly aimed at the lower end of the caf and takeaway market. Unoaked.S Indian or Asian cuisineX 4058Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Synergy N Dry White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _"Richard Hamilton Synergy Dry White Richard Hamilton e under $10 14/7/98 6/1/98 Richard Hamilton [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a clean bouquet of medium intensity with tropical and banana aromas is followed by a pleasant, soft fruit salad-flavoured palate finishing with quite crisp acidity. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a clean bouquet of medium intensity with tropical and banana aromas is followed by a pleasant, soft fruit salad-flavoured palate finishing with quite crisp acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 N LindemansP A relatively new addition to the Lindeman range, in part directed at the export market. Utilises a new and exciting semillon planting at Cullulleraine, on the Murray River west of Mildura, which has produced grapes of unexpectedly high quality in its first years. Spicy Chinese cuisineX 4059Y 14/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill Bin 77 Semillon Chardonnay White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _$Lindemans Bin 77 Semillon Chardonnay Lindemans (Karadoc) e under $10 14/7/98 6/1/98 Lindemans (Karadoc) 3[3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; has considerable character and presence, with a bite to the fruit. The palate, likewise, has some unexpected bite and grip, with the character of a wine in a higher price bracket. The only query is the hint of chippy oak lurking in the background. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; has considerable character and presence, with a bite to the fruit. The palate, likewise, has some unexpected bite and grip, with the character of a wine in a higher price bracket. The only query is the hint of chippy oak lurking in the background.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 OrlandoP Doubtless the most important white version of Jacobs Creek these days, notwithstanding the consistent and persistent success of the Riesling in Australian wine shows. Sourced from all over southeast Australia, and professionally put together.S Kentucky Fried ChickenX 4060Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Jacobs Creek Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Orlando Jacobs Creek Chardonnay Orlando e under $10 14/7/98 6/1/98 Orlando [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a solid wine on the bouquet with ripe peach and buttery fruit. A similarly solid wine, particularly on the mid-palate; the makers have obviously opted for maximum fruit extraction. Dips ever so slightly on the finish. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a solid wine on the bouquet with ripe peach and buttery fruit. A similarly solid wine, particularly on the mid-palate; the makers have obviously opted for maximum fruit extraction. Dips ever so slightly on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Evans & TateP Made using the full panoply of winemaking techniques, many borrowed from Burgundy. Part whole-bunch pressed, and part crushed, fermentation is initiated in stainless steel and then transferred to new French oak barriques for the remainder of fermentation. Twenty per cent of the wine is taken through malolactic fermentation, and the wine matured in a temperature-controlled cool room, with prolonged lees contact and stirring. Notwithstanding all of these techniques, typically a more elegant BCand restrained style than one usually encounters in Margaret River. Marron or lobsterX 4061Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Margaret River Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Evans & Tate Margaret River Chardonnay Evans & Tate $26-50 14/7/98 6/1/98 Evans & Tate '[4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth and stylish, with a seamless marriage of melon/citrus fruit and oak. The palate is lively and fresh, with tight citrussy - almost minerally - fruit, less luscious than many of its peers, but more elegant. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth and stylish, with a seamless marriage of melon/citrus fruit and oak. The palate is lively and fresh, with tight citrussy - almost minerally - fruit, less luscious than many of its peers, but more elegant.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 OrlandoP 14.95 A wine which has surged into prominence in recent years, based on premium Padthaway fruit. The 96 vintage won gold medals as far afield as the 1997 Asia Pacific Wine Challenge, the Concours Mondiale in Brussels and the International Wine Challenge in London. VealX 4062Y 14/7/98a Padthaway St Hilary Padthaway Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Orlando St Hilary Padthaway Chardonnay Orlando (Padthaway) $11-15 14/7/98 6/1/98 Orlando e[5wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-green; a cavalcade of fruit aromas running through grapefruit, melon and nectarine are supported by excellent French oak barrel-fermentation characters. A marvellously balanced and constructed wine on the palate with lingering but not heavy melon and nectarine fruit, and more of that sophisticated oak. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; a cavalcade of fruit aromas running through grapefruit, melon and nectarine are supported by excellent French oak barrel-fermentation characters. A marvellously balanced and constructed wine on the palate with lingering but not heavy melon and nectarine fruit, and more of that sophisticated oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 McWilliam s Mount PleasantP This is the flagship Chardonnay from the Hunter Valley, sitting alongside the O'Shea Shiraz. Only limited quantities are made, and indeed is not necessarily produced every vintage.S Roast porkX 4063Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _,McWilliam s Mount Pleasant O Shea Chardonnay McWilliam s Mount Pleasant $26-50 14/7/98 6/1/98 McWilliam s Mount Pleasant [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium yellow-green; a clean and smooth bouquet with soft peach/melon fruit and subtle oak leads onto a quite rich and full-bodied palate with peachy fruit; good length and subtle oak throughout. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a clean and smooth bouquet with soft peach/melon fruit and subtle oak leads onto a quite rich and full-bodied palate with peachy fruit; good length and subtle oak throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 GoundreyP There is no doubt that Pinot Noir in the Mount Barker region is an on-again, off-again affair, at least in terms of varietal character. Plantagenet succeeded in 1994, but not in 1996, in which year it was Goundrey's turn to do so.S Spiced quailX 4064Y 14/7/98a Great Southern Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Goundrey Reserve Pinot Noir Goundrey $21-25 14/7/98 6/1/98 Goundrey [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; a fragrant spicy/stalky bouquet shows good varietal character, as does the palate with its interesting spicy/foresty flavours. There is clear-cut varietal character evident all the way through the wine. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; a fragrant spicy/stalky bouquet shows good varietal character, as does the palate with its interesting spicy/foresty flavours. There is clear-cut varietal character evident all the way through the wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Richard HamiltonP 17.95QRIntroduced in 1996 to sit underneath the Hamilton Ewell Reserve Old Vines Shiraz. S Devilled kidneysX 4065Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _$Richard Hamilton McLaren Vale Shiraz Richard Hamilton $16-20 14/7/98 7/1/98 Richard Hamilton [4wine glasses] 1996 Vivid purple-red; concentrated juicy berry fruit on the bouquet leads into a lusciously ripe palate with blackberry and black cherry flavours supported by subtle oak and slightly furry tannins on the finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Vivid purple-red; concentrated juicy berry fruit on the bouquet leads into a lusciously ripe palate with blackberry and black cherry flavours supported by subtle oak and slightly furry tannins on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 McWilliam s Mount PleasantP 19.95 HThe Rosehill Vineyard shares a hill of terra rossa soil bisected in the middle by the Broke Road, with Lake's Folly on the opposite side to Rosehill. Over the years it has produced many great wines (the 59 is particularly memorable) and, it must be said, a few disappointments too. The 96, happily, is in the mould of the Marinated spatchcockX 4066Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Rosehill Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _*McWilliam s Mount Pleasant Rosehill Shiraz McWilliam s Mount Pleasant $16-20 14/7/98 7/1/98 McWilliam s Mount Pleasant X[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; excellent weight and extract, with strong black cherry and earth varietal fruit, together with touches of spice and liquorice. The palate is almost deceptively light after the bouquet, but has the structure and inner core to sustain it for decades. Fine tannins are a feature. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; excellent weight and extract, with strong black cherry and earth varietal fruit, together with touches of spice and liquorice. The palate is almost deceptively light after the bouquet, but has the structure and inner core to sustain it for decades. Fine tannins are a feature.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Richard HamiltonP 26.95 The Marion Vineyard is part of the original Hamilton Ewell vineyards, first established by Richard Hamilton's great-great grandfather (also Richard Hamilton) in 1837. Marion is one of Australia's few remaining historic suburban vineyards, Penfolds Magill Estate being another. Kangaroo filletX 4067Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Marion Vineyard Reserve Grenache Shiraz Shiraz Blends Z Australia _8Richard Hamilton Marion Vineyard Reserve Grenache Shiraz Richard Hamilton $26-50 17.01 14/7/98 7/1/98 Richard Hamilton [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; the bouquet had moderately juicy berry fruit aromas with subtle oak; a touch of gamey character runs through the wine which is very probably varietally derived, but doesn't really shine. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the bouquet had moderately juicy berry fruit aromas with subtle oak; a touch of gamey character runs through the wine which is very probably varietally derived, but doesn't really shine. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 MontroseP Montrose was established by Italian-born engineers Carlo Salteri and Franco Belgiorno-Nettis (of Transfield Corporation), who in turn hired Italian winemaker Carlo Corino as winemaker. Inevitably, Italian grape varieties were planted and were briefly made, but disappeared from the scene for over a decade (although the plantings were not removed). The Italian craze has lead to their reappearance, and not before time. I preferred the 96 Barbera to the 96 Sangiovese. Bistecca fiorentinaX 4068Y 14/7/98a Mudgee Barbera Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Montrose Barbera Montrose $21-25 14/7/98 7/1/98 Montrose [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; the bouquet is clean and fresh with red cherry and plum fruit, tinged with earth; the palate is firm, as befits the variety, with plummy/briary fruit, supple tannins and good length and structure. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the bouquet is clean and fresh with red cherry and plum fruit, tinged with earth; the palate is firm, as befits the variety, with plummy/briary fruit, supple tannins and good length and structure.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Evans & TateP ;Evans & Tate were one of the first producers in Australia to market a varietal Merlot. The grapes are grown at Evans & Tate's Redbrook Vineyard from now fully mature vines. Partial (10%) barrel fermentation and maturation in a mix of one and two-year-old French oak barriques for 18 months produces an elegant wine. 96U Osso bucoX 4069Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Margaret River Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _"Evans & Tate Margaret River Merlot Evans & Tate $26-50 14/7/98 7/1/98 Evans & Tate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; very ripe and rich fruit floods the bouquet with chocolate, mint and berry aromas. The palate, too, is sweet, mouthfilling and ripe, with small black fruit flavours, and a smooth, sweet middle palate. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; very ripe and rich fruit floods the bouquet with chocolate, mint and berry aromas. The palate, too, is sweet, mouthfilling and ripe, with small black fruit flavours, and a smooth, sweet middle palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 AlkoomiP RA new super-premium release from Alkoomi, first made in 1994 from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot, with the first blend made after the components had already been in barrel for 20 months, thereafter being transferred to 100% new French oak for a further eight months before bottling. Only very small quantities are made. 94U Rare beefX 4070Y 14/7/98a Great Southern M Blackbutt Cabernet Blends Z Australia Alkoomi Blackbutt Alkoomi 14/7/98 7/1/98 Alkoomi [5wine glasses] 1994 Still holding red-purple; it has supple yet rich and sweet blackberry, chocolate, cedar and vanilla aromas on the bouquet, leading onto a palate with quite superb fruit, which swallows up the oak and finishes with lingering tannins. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Still holding red-purple; it has supple yet rich and sweet blackberry, chocolate, cedar and vanilla aromas on the bouquet, leading onto a palate with quite superb fruit, which swallows up the oak and finishes with lingering tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 De BortoliP /Made in such tiny quantities as to be barely commercial, but is sold through cellar door in restricted quantities. A super-deluxe selection of the best, sometimes with only one barrel, and named in honour of Dame Nellie Melba. Typically a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Yarra Valley venisonX 4071Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Melba Cabernet Blends Z Australia De Bortoli Melba De Bortoli (Victoria) 14/7/98 7/1/98 De Bortoli (Victoria) ([4.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is very smooth and stylish, with ripe, dark berry fruit aromas together with gently cedary oak. A powerful wine in the mouth, with dark berry fruits, hints of leaf and mint, persistent tannins and quite firm acidity. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is very smooth and stylish, with ripe, dark berry fruit aromas together with gently cedary oak. A powerful wine in the mouth, with dark berry fruits, hints of leaf and mint, persistent tannins and quite firm acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Nicholson RiverP QaA blend of 90% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc, made in a style almost unique to Ken Eckersley. S Grilled eggplantX 4073Y 14/7/98a Gippsland Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Nicholson River Semillon Nicholson River $16-20 14/7/98 7/1/98 Nicholson River [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Deep yellow, quite amazing for a relatively young wine. The bouquet is striking with a dry herb underlay to lemony fruit. The palate is massive, almost impossibly full flavoured, and difficult to judge by conventional standards. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Deep yellow, quite amazing for a relatively young wine. The bouquet is striking with a dry herb underlay to lemony fruit. The palate is massive, almost impossibly full flavoured, and difficult to judge by conventional standards. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Rosemount EstateP kNotwithstanding Rosemount's domicile in the Upper Hunter, this is one of the few commercial wines produced by Rosemount which has a Hunter Valley appellation. That, of course, is no accident, and simply reflects the fact that there is a true synergy between the region and the variety. Just for the record, this wine won two gold medals in the year of its making. MusselsX 4074Y 14/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _'Rosemount Estate Hunter Valley Semillon c Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) $11-15 14/7/98 7/1/98 % Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) "[4wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; a crisp, clean bouquet of light to medium intensity with utterly correct toasty/grassy varietal character. A fresh and lively wine on the palate, crisp and clean, and eschewing the use of either oak or residual sugar to pump it up. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a crisp, clean bouquet of light to medium intensity with utterly correct toasty/grassy varietal character. A fresh and lively wine on the palate, crisp and clean, and eschewing the use of either oak or residual sugar to pump it up.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Voyager EstateP 20.44 TProduced from 7.5 hectares of estate plantings, and right from the outset has proved itself a very distinguished wine. Partial barrel fermentation in a mix of French and American oak has been skilfully employed to add a dimension to the wine, but without taking away from the varietal fruit character. Good in 1995, and even better in 1996. ChickenX 4075Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Voyager Estate Semillon Voyager Estate $16-20 14/7/98 7/1/98 Voyager Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; an intense, pungent herbal/grassy bouquet in the best Margaret River style leads onto a palate full of character and flavour, with spicy oak appearing only on the finish. Good acidity stops the wine from cloying. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; an intense, pungent herbal/grassy bouquet in the best Margaret River style leads onto a palate full of character and flavour, with spicy oak appearing only on the finish. Good acidity stops the wine from cloying.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Rosemount EstateP 24.5Q Rosemount s Show Reserve label means what it says: this really is a carefully selected wine of well-above-average quality, sourced from Rosemount s best vineyards in the Hunter Valley.S Breast of turkeyX 4076Y 14/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Show Reserve Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _&Rosemount Estate Show Reserve Semillon c Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) $21-25 14/7/98 7/1/98 % Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) 3[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is starting to develop classic honey and toast aromas, yet retains fruit smoothness. A most attractive wine on the palate, with considerable length, again retaining lively, tangy lemony fruit flavours. Excellent each-way proposition. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is starting to develop classic honey and toast aromas, yet retains fruit smoothness. A most attractive wine on the palate, with considerable length, again retaining lively, tangy lemony fruit flavours. Excellent each-way proposition.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 PlantagenetP The SS Omrah was a sailing ship built in 1899 which regularly sailed to Western Australia; as indicated elsewhere, it is now a Plantagenet brand (although, confusingly, also a Mount Barker vineyard). This wine is a blend of Mount Barker, Pemberton and Margaret River-sourced fruit. NAU ShellfishX 4077Y 14/7/98a Great Southern Omrah Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _!Plantagenet Omrah Sauvignon Blanc Plantagenet $16-20 14/7/98 8/1/98 Plantagenet [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is light, fresh and crisp, without a great deal of fruit depth, but clean. A pleasant commercial dry white of light to medium weight, with a hint of spice to go along with nuances of herb and gooseberry. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is light, fresh and crisp, without a great deal of fruit depth, but clean. A pleasant commercial dry white of light to medium weight, with a hint of spice to go along with nuances of herb and gooseberry.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 YalumbaP Yalumba was the first winery in South Australia (and the second in Australia, the first being Elgee Park in the Mornington Peninsula) to commercially grow and make viognier. Planted in the East Barossa Ranges, it is perhaps a mark of the long learning curve through which Yalumba has gone that this is the first occasion on which a wine entry has appeared in the Wine Companion. That learning curve has finally led to the conclusion that viognier has to be allowed to ripen way beyond the normaBkl point, with flavour changes occurring well after sugar accumulation has ceased a unique characteristic. Peach-fed porkX 4078Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Reserve Viognier White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Yalumba Reserve Viognier Yalumba $16-20 14/7/98 8/1/98 Yalumba ,[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow; some real pastille fruit varietal character to a richly floral/apricot-accented bouquet; the palate has the distinctive feel of the Northern Rh ne to it, with pronounced dried apricot nuances. No doubting this is a very different variety. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow; some real pastille fruit varietal character to a richly floral/apricot-accented bouquet; the palate has the distinctive feel of the Northern Rh ne to it, with pronounced dried apricot nuances. No doubting this is a very different variety.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 SalitageP <The opulent use of oak in what might loosely be called the normal Salitage Chardonnay serves to highlight the difference between the two wines, with quality of the underlying fruit very evident from this wine. Unwooded Chardonnays work when the fruit quality is there, and don't when it is not. This one does work. Vegetarian dishesX 4079Y 14/7/98a Pemberton Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Salitage Unwooded Chardonnay Salitage $16-20 14/7/98 8/1/98 Salitage [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; fragrant grapefruit and melon varietal fruit aromas leap from the glass; the palate shows relatively light but most attractive cool-grown melon/grapefruit flavours. Well balanced, but at its best now. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; fragrant grapefruit and melon varietal fruit aromas leap from the glass; the palate shows relatively light but most attractive cool-grown melon/grapefruit flavours. Well balanced, but at its best now.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Grant BurgeP 19.80 ,First released under this label in 1993, and made an immediate impact, winning a cascade of gold medals and a number of major trophies. Attractive fruit and sophisticated oak handling were the key, and although subsequent vintages have not scaled the same heights, the wine is seldom less than good. Char-grilled octopusX 4080Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Barossa Ranges Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _%Grant Burge Barossa Ranges Chardonnay Grant Burge $16-20 14/7/98 8/1/98 Grant Burge [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a quite complex bouquet with softly spicy/charry oak and sweet fruit. The palate has pleasant soft peach and nectarine fruit in abundance, with appropriate oak in support. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a quite complex bouquet with softly spicy/charry oak and sweet fruit. The palate has pleasant soft peach and nectarine fruit in abundance, with appropriate oak in support. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 HenschkeP 33.40QxAnother distinguished wine from the cool-climate Lenswood vineyards of Henschke, sitting alongside the Giles Pinot Noir.S GravlaxX 4081Y 14/7/98a Eden Valley Croft Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Henschke Croft Chardonnay Henschke $26-50 14/7/98 8/1/98 Henschke "[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a quite fragrant bouquet with tangy melon, fig and citrus fruits supported by subtle oak. The flavour builds progressively towards the back of the palate with some evidence of botrytis which does not detract unduly from the wine. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a quite fragrant bouquet with tangy melon, fig and citrus fruits supported by subtle oak. The flavour builds progressively towards the back of the palate with some evidence of botrytis which does not detract unduly from the wine. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Rosemount EstateP WThe vineyard was planted in 1989 at an elevation of 900 metres. The planting density is high, and a high-wall vertical trellis is used. The wine undergoes barrel fermentation and usually undergoes 100% malolactic fermentation. Both the 95 and 96 vintages won gold medals at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show, an outstanding achievement. Oyster soupX 4082Y 10/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Rose Label Orange Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _-Rosemount Estate Rose Label Orange Chardonnay c Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) 10/7/98 8/1/98 % Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; an elegant wine, proclaiming its cool-grown origins with crisp, almost herbaceous fruit, gently nutty malolactic fermentation influence, and subtle oak on a long finish. Veers towards Chablis in style. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; an elegant wine, proclaiming its cool-grown origins with crisp, almost herbaceous fruit, gently nutty malolactic fermentation influence, and subtle oak on a long finish. Veers towards Chablis in style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Rouge HommeP Given the full winemaking treatment, barrel-fermented then matured on yeast lees in new and one-year-old French oak barriques and hogsheads for seven months, with partial malolactic fermentation. Has been a consistent show medal winner in recent times.S Richly sauced white meat dishesX 4083Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Rouge Homme Chardonnay Rouge Homme $16-20 14/7/98 8/1/98 Rouge Homme [4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium green-yellow; pleasant melon-accented fruit with fairly assertive oak on the bouquet, and a repeat on the palate with smooth melon fruit at the centre, surrounded by assertive oak. The two components will marry with bottle age. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; pleasant melon-accented fruit with fairly assertive oak on the bouquet, and a repeat on the palate with smooth melon fruit at the centre, surrounded by assertive oak. The two components will marry with bottle age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Vasse FelixP 35QkYet another distinguished string to the Vasse Felix bow, and likewise the Chardonnay bow of Margaret River.S Roast porkX 4084Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Vasse Felix Reserve Chardonnay Vasse Felix $26-50 14/7/98 8/1/98 Vasse Felix C[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; in strong Margaret River-style with potent tangy/melon fruit and positive but not overdone spicy/clove oak. A perfectly balanced wine in the mouth, with sumptuous and ripe nectarine/peach fruit, yet not excessively heavy. Swallows up the high-quality oak. RATING: 96 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; in strong Margaret River-style with potent tangy/melon fruit and positive but not overdone spicy/clove oak. A perfectly balanced wine in the mouth, with sumptuous and ripe nectarine/peach fruit, yet not excessively heavy. Swallows up the high-quality oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">96 NoonP A conventionally made wine which relies upon the proposition that McLaren Vale produces the best Grenache Shiraz blends in Australia. Once you have a conjunction of climate, soil and variety such as this, the winemaker's task becomes very much more simple. Beef in red wineX 4085Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Grenache Shiraz Shiraz Blends Z Australia Noon Grenache Shiraz Noon Winery $11-15 17.01 14/7/98 12/1/98 Noon Winery [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a clean, rich bouquet with attractive juicy blackberry fruit flows into a rich, ripe and concentrated palate with a touch of mint to go with the other juicy fruit flavours, and soft milky/vanilla oak in support. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean, rich bouquet with attractive juicy blackberry fruit flows into a rich, ripe and concentrated palate with a touch of mint to go with the other juicy fruit flavours, and soft milky/vanilla oak in support.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 NoonP Surely one of the most extraordinary table wines made in Australia. It has achieved 16.8 degrees alcohol without fortification, a technical feat in itself, and spent 18 months on yeast lees, like Italian Amarone Recioto. As rare and as exotic as they come. You tell meX 4086Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Solaire Reserve Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Noon Solaire Reserve Grenache Noon Winery $21-25 14/7/98 12/1/98 Noon Winery [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the ripe and concentrated juicy berry bouquet gives little hint of the almost unbelievably rich, concentrated and amazingly sweet palate. That sweetness is fruit and alcohol, and not unfermented sugar. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the ripe and concentrated juicy berry bouquet gives little hint of the almost unbelievably rich, concentrated and amazingly sweet palate. That sweetness is fruit and alcohol, and not unfermented sugar.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 NoonP Another blockbuster, although not as awe-inspiring as the Reserve Grenache. Drew Noon has followed in the footsteps of his father in one respect, at least, neither fining nor filtering this wine, and (again in Noon tradition) allowing it to reach 14.5 degrees alcohol. NAU Rich gameX 4087Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Noon Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Noon Winery $16-20 14/7/98 12/1/98 Noon Winery ([4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a concentrated briary/earthy bouquet with some blackberry fruit poking through. The ultra-concentrated palate is redolent with rich blackberry/blackcurrant fruit before moving into a fairly rough-cut finish. A full-on macho style. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a concentrated briary/earthy bouquet with some blackberry fruit poking through. The ultra-concentrated palate is redolent with rich blackberry/blackcurrant fruit before moving into a fairly rough-cut finish. A full-on macho style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Peter LehmannP 13.95 Brand extension is the name of the game these days, and so the Clancy's Classic Dry White had to come sooner or later. A blend of Semillon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, it is refreshingly free of oak.S Seafood pastaX 4088Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Clancy Classic Dry White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _(Peter Lehmann Clancy s Classic Dry White Peter Lehmann $11-15 14/7/98 12/1/98 Peter Lehmann [3wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a clean, gently sweet bouquet with tropical fruit is followed by clean, fresh well-made fruit-driven wine on the palate. A friendly, unthreatening style. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a clean, gently sweet bouquet with tropical fruit is followed by clean, fresh well-made fruit-driven wine on the palate. A friendly, unthreatening style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Port Phillip EstateP Yet another good wine from Port Phillip Estate, made without artifice and simply relying on the cool Mornington Peninsula climate.S NAU ShellfishX 4089Y 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _#Port Phillip Estate Sauvignon Blanc Port Phillip Estate $16-20 14/7/98 12/1/98 Port Phillip Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, light gently grassy bouquet is followed by a palate with good mouthfeel, gently flavoured gooseberry varietal character, and a clean, crisp finish. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, light gently grassy bouquet is followed by a palate with good mouthfeel, gently flavoured gooseberry varietal character, and a clean, crisp finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Barossa SettlersP 13.50QAMade from the best block of riesling on the substantial vineyard.S SweetbreadsX 4091Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Gully Winds Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _%Barossa Settlers Gully Winds Riesling Barossa Settlers $11-15 14/7/98 12/1/98 Barossa Settlers [4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium intensity with lime and some toast aromas lurking in the background. The palate is well balanced with sweet lime flavours, even a faint touch of peach; long, rich finish. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium intensity with lime and some toast aromas lurking in the background. The palate is well balanced with sweet lime flavours, even a faint touch of peach; long, rich finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 QuelltalerP Produced from a blend of Watervale and Polish Hill-grown grapes. Notwithstanding the emergence of three Quelltaler single vineyard Rieslings from the 97 vintage, Annie's Lane Riesling was good enough to gain the top gold medal in Class 1 at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show. 97U AsparagusX 4092Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Annie s Lane Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _ Quelltaler Annie s Lane Riesling Quelltaler $11-15 14/7/98 12/1/98 Quelltaler [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a solid, rich bouquet with a mix of lime, pastille and a hint of spice. The palate is powerful, with some toasty characters which will grow with age; a well judged touch of sugar on the finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a solid, rich bouquet with a mix of lime, pastille and a hint of spice. The palate is powerful, with some toasty characters which will grow with age; a well judged touch of sugar on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 KrondorfP &The vast majority of Barossa Valley Semillons are heavy, phenolic wines which seem to be masquerading as detuned Chardonnays. Worst of all is their tendency to develop alarmingly quickly, becoming fat and oily as they do so. The 96 vintage of this wine shows it is possible to avoid the trap. Avocado saladX 4093Y 14/7/98 Barossa Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Krondorf Semillon Krondorf $16-20 14/7/98 12/1/98 Krondorf [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is still attractive, fresh and lively, with lemony varietal fruit; the tangy palate has excellent length and mouthfeel, the oak barely perceptible. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is still attractive, fresh and lively, with lemony varietal fruit; the tangy palate has excellent length and mouthfeel, the oak barely perceptible.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Chestnut GroveP 17.90 A wine which adds weight to the argument that Pemberton is better suited to the Bordeaux varieties than it is to the Burgundian, and in particular Pinot Noir. The 95 won a strongly pointed silver medal (third in its class of over 70 wines) at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show. s fryX 4094Y 14/7/98a Pemberton Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Chestnut Grove Cabernet Merlot Chestnut Grove $16-20 14/7/98 12/1/98 Chestnut Grove [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is pleasant, with fragrant sweet red berry aromas and some cedary notes. The palate shows the same attractive blend of sweet cedary oak with faintly briary berry fruit, and tannins which are adequate to the task. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is pleasant, with fragrant sweet red berry aromas and some cedary notes. The palate shows the same attractive blend of sweet cedary oak with faintly briary berry fruit, and tannins which are adequate to the task.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Piccadilly FieldsP NAQwAlways made in a very delicate style, typified by the 96 which won a gold medal at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show. S NAU ShellfishX 4095Y 10/7/98a Adelaide Hills Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Piccadilly Fields Chardonnay Piccadilly Fields 10/7/98 12/1/98 Piccadilly Fields %[4wine glasses] 1996 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity, with very subtle oak. An extremely delicate and crisp palate, Chablis-like, and not exhibited the intense varietal fruit we are used to in Australia. For all that, very well crafted. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity, with very subtle oak. An extremely delicate and crisp palate, Chablis-like, and not exhibited the intense varietal fruit we are used to in Australia. For all that, very well crafted.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Hamelin BayP 18.10Q A blend of 50% Semillon and 50% Sauvignon Blanc, with 5% barrel-fermented in American oak, the remainder in stainless steel. 1997 was the first vintage, winning a gold, two silver and two bronze medals in wine shows in 1997.S TempuraX 4096Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _$Hamelin Bay Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Hamelin Bay $16-20 14/7/98 12/1/98 Hamelin Bay [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a fragrant bouquet with Sauvignon Blanc the dominant partner, and providing sweet gooseberry fruit over a more grassy undertone. The palate has good balance and fruit ripeness, with Sauvignon Blanc again driving the wine. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a fragrant bouquet with Sauvignon Blanc the dominant partner, and providing sweet gooseberry fruit over a more grassy undertone. The palate has good balance and fruit ripeness, with Sauvignon Blanc again driving the wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 EldredgeP *QPThe 95 was a trophy and gold medal winner at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show.S Barbecued lambX 4097Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Eldredge Cabernet Sauvignon Eldredge $11-15 14/7/98 12/1/98 Eldredge [5wine glasses] 1995 Strong red-purple; there is a mix of leaf, earth and blackberry aromas on the bouquet. The palate has excellent length and grip, again showing pristine varietal character as the main driving force; the oak is subtle throughout. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; there is a mix of leaf, earth and blackberry aromas on the bouquet. The palate has excellent length and grip, again showing pristine varietal character as the main driving force; the oak is subtle throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 EldertonP NAQ7Gold medal winner at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show.S VenisonX 4098Y 10/7/98a Barossa Valley Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Elderton Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Elderton 10/7/98 12/1/98 Elderton [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; somewhat unusually for Elderton, fruit, rather than oak-driven, with classic red and blackcurrant fruit supported by gentle cedary oak on both bouquet and the long palate. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; somewhat unusually for Elderton, fruit, rather than oak-driven, with classic red and blackcurrant fruit supported by gentle cedary oak on both bouquet and the long palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Pewsey ValeP In the late 60s and early 70s one of the great names in Australian Riesling, the 69 vintage still one to bewitch with. In recent times has simply not shone, and perhaps the price is part of the explanation. Quite why Yalumba is content, I quite frankly do not know. WhitingX 4099Y 14/7/98a Eden Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Pewsey Vale Riesling Pewsey Vale $11-15 14/7/98 13/1/98 Pewsey Vale [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with some floral citrus aromas together with hints of toast. The palate starts with the same promise as the bouquet, but really does lighten off distinctly on the back palate and finish. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with some floral citrus aromas together with hints of toast. The palate starts with the same promise as the bouquet, but really does lighten off distinctly on the back palate and finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Will TaylorP )We know the wine was produced from grapes grown on red loam over limestone and slate at an altitude of 436 metres, with a heat degree summation of 1770 and harvested 7-8 April 1997, being bottled on September 5 1997 with an awe-inspiring alcohol of 13.4 degrees. All we don't know is who made it. Chicken yakitoriX 4100Y 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Clare Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _!Will Taylor Clare Valley Riesling Will Taylor Wines $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 Will Taylor Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, full honeyed/toasty bouquet, quite advanced for its age. There is masses of soft tropical fruit with unusual touches of banana and honey. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a rich, full honeyed/toasty bouquet, quite advanced for its age. There is masses of soft tropical fruit with unusual touches of banana and honey.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Will TaylorP wOnce again, we know a great deal about the wine which was picked on 11 April 1997 from a vineyard at 340 metres established on sandstone over rich red clay, receiving a rainfall of 1000 mm and having a heat degree day summation of 1270. Eight per cent of the wine was fermented in new French barriques, the rest in stainless steel, and the wine was bottled 8 September 1997. OystersX 4101Y 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _*Will Taylor Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc Will Taylor Wines $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 Will Taylor Wines [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium green-yellow; the bouquet is quite full with a mix of gooseberry and nectarine, and the oak imperceptible. A pleasant well-balanced palate with pleasant limey/gooseberry fruit; dips a little on the mid palate, but does have length. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium green-yellow; the bouquet is quite full with a mix of gooseberry and nectarine, and the oak imperceptible. A pleasant well-balanced palate with pleasant limey/gooseberry fruit; dips a little on the mid palate, but does have length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Angove A blend of Shiraz grown on Angove's Anchorage and Nanya Vineyards on the Murray River (80%) and Padthaway Cabernet Sauvignon (20%). The wine spent 12 months in American oak hogsheads prior to bottling. S Light meat dishes or pastaX 4103Y 14/7/98a Riverland Mondiale Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia _!Angove s Mondiale Shiraz Cabernet Angove $11-15 14/7/98 13/1/98 Angove [3wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity with some berry and earth fruit. The palate is neither particularly rich or powerful, with minty berry fruit and minimal tannins. Barely perceptible oak. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity with some berry and earth fruit. The palate is neither particularly rich or powerful, with minty berry fruit and minimal tannins. Barely perceptible oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 9.95Q A blend of predominantly Semillon from the Barossa Valley and barrel-fermented Chardonnay from McLaren Vale, made in a full-bodied, boots-and-all style.S Fish and chipsX 4104Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale St Estelle Semillon Chardonnay White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia St Estelle Semillon Chardonnay Beresford Wines e under $10 14/7/98 13/1/98 Beresford Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Deep yellow, suggesting prolonged skin contact. The bouquet is solid and full, with buttery/peachy fruit on the bouquet leading into a very ripe peach, banana and pineapple-flavoured palate which works well in its style. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Deep yellow, suggesting prolonged skin contact. The bouquet is solid and full, with buttery/peachy fruit on the bouquet leading into a very ripe peach, banana and pineapple-flavoured palate which works well in its style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 9.95QyA blend of McLaren Vale, Padthaway, Barossa and Riverland fruit, 25% of which was taken through malolactic fermentation. S Chicken and chipsX 4105Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale M St Yvette Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia St Yvette Chardonnay Beresford Wines e under $10 14/7/98 13/1/98 Beresford Wines [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow; a solid and full bouquet with buttery fruit and toasty/chippy oak. The palate, likewise, has plenty of flavour in a buttery/peachy spectrum, again with that faintly resiny oak. However, there can be no complaints at the price. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow; a solid and full bouquet with buttery fruit and toasty/chippy oak. The palate, likewise, has plenty of flavour in a buttery/peachy spectrum, again with that faintly resiny oak. However, there can be no complaints at the price.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 3N LindemansP =A new and rather bizarre (in terms of design) label, which suggests that the Limestone Coast region is blessed with mountains, rivers and trees, whereas in fact 90% of it is laser-flat. Labelling peccadilloes to one side, the wine is also striking for the amount of oak used in such a competitively priced Chardonnay. Chicken pastaX 4106Y 14/7/98a Padthaway Limestone Coast Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Lindemans Limestone Coast Chardonnay Lindemans (Padthaway) $11-15 14/7/98 13/1/98 Lindemans (Padthaway) 8[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Glowing yellow-green; opulent, spicy barrel fermentation oak aromas are the first impression on the bouquet, although there is pleasant white and yellow peach fruit there. There is masses of flavour on the palate, but for me, at least, the oak is needlessly over the top. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; opulent, spicy barrel fermentation oak aromas are the first impression on the bouquet, although there is pleasant white and yellow peach fruit there. There is masses of flavour on the palate, but for me, at least, the oak is needlessly over the top.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Mount HorrocksP Made from two parcels of fruit harvested at different ripeness, with 20% undergoing malolactic fermentation in stainless steel, but little or no oak input. Overall, well away from the mainstream of Australian Chardonnay-style, but not doing much to change my mind about the lack of synergy between the Clare Valley and Chardonnay. Half the fruit is picked at 12.5 baum , the remainder in excess of 13 baum PastaX 4107Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Mount Horrocks Chardonnay Mount Horrocks $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 Mount Horrocks =[3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows a mix of melon fruit with some distinctly riper characters and a lifted edge which is distracting, and which also appears on the palate. It is a character which seems to be part of the style of Mount Horrocks, but I remain to be converted. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows a mix of melon fruit with some distinctly riper characters and a lifted edge which is distracting, and which also appears on the palate. It is a character which seems to be part of the style of Mount Horrocks, but I remain to be converted.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 Wandin Valley EstateP Like the Reserve Chardonnay, made in restricted quantities, typically 500 cases. A consistent show medal winner, but the 96 is absolutely the best wine to come from Wandin Valley since 1991.S Braised duckX 4108Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley WVE Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _3Wandin Valley Estate WVE Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Wandin Valley Estate $21-25 14/7/98 13/1/98 Wandin Valley Estate ([4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; abundant, lush, ripe cassis blackcurrant fruit is supported by pleasant oak on the bouquet. There is more of the same rich, ripe voluptuously textured sweet cassis fruit on the palate, with sweet vanillin oak in perfect harmony. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; abundant, lush, ripe cassis blackcurrant fruit is supported by pleasant oak on the bouquet. There is more of the same rich, ripe voluptuously textured sweet cassis fruit on the palate, with sweet vanillin oak in perfect harmony.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Chateau TahbilkP 16.95 Chateau Tahbilk has quite extensive plantings of chardonnay, both making wine under its own label and selling grapes (and bulk wine) to others. Obviously, Alister Purbrick selects the best material for Chateau Tahbilk's own use, and over the years has produced one or two quite lovely wines, one winning a major trophy at the Sydney Wine Show some years ago. Subtle use of French and American oak is a feature of the style. Rotisserie chickenX 4109Y 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Chateau Tahbilk Chardonnay Chateau Tahbilk $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 Chateau Tahbilk [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a big fruit-driven wine with ripe buttery/peachy fruit together with a few spicy oak notes on the bouquet. There is lots of mid to back palate flavour, again with pleasantly subtle oak, and finishes with good acidity. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a big fruit-driven wine with ripe buttery/peachy fruit together with a few spicy oak notes on the bouquet. There is lots of mid to back palate flavour, again with pleasantly subtle oak, and finishes with good acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Hungerford HillP 9A new arrival among the dazzling Hungerford Hill labels (and choices) but does fit neatly alongside the highly regarded Tumbarumba Sauvignon Blanc. With vineyards ranging between 580 and 850 metres, high in the Snowy Mountains, this is true cool-country Chardonnay which has happily received subtle oak treatment. MusselsX 4110Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Tumbarumba Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _%Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Chardonnay Hungerford Hill $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 Hungerford Hill >[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; delicate, crisp melon and fig fruit is supported by subtle oak on both bouquet and palate. The flavours are in the spectrum one would expect, veering between citrus and melon, and the wine likewise has the length of finish provided by naturally high acidity. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; delicate, crisp melon and fig fruit is supported by subtle oak on both bouquet and palate. The flavours are in the spectrum one would expect, veering between citrus and melon, and the wine likewise has the length of finish provided by naturally high acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 8N HillstoweP Produced from Hillstowe's Buxton Vineyard established on alluvial flats in the heart of McLaren Vale, and typically released with two to three years bottle age.S GnocchiX 4111Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Buxton Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Hillstowe Buxton Chardonnay c Hillstowe $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 % Hillstowe [4wine glasses] 1996 Bright yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with ample buttery/peachy fruit and subtle oak. The rounded palate has less length than the Udy's Mill Chardonnay, but has plenty of honest peachy/buttery flavour, and minimal oak. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with ample buttery/peachy fruit and subtle oak. The rounded palate has less length than the Udy's Mill Chardonnay, but has plenty of honest peachy/buttery flavour, and minimal oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 PenfoldsP Keeping up with the twists and turns of Penfolds development of a super-premium white wine to sit alongside Grange is not easy. Between 1992 and 1997 more than 12 experimental wines have been made by Penfolds, some commercially released, some not. In November 1997 there was a one-off release of Bin 94A, an extraordinarily complex wine produced from 90% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon Blanc grown in the Adelaide Hills (52%), Eden Valley (24%), Tumbarumba (21%) and Macedon (3%). It was totally B barrel-fermented in French oak (72% new) and matured on lees in those barrels for ten months, with 90% of the wine undergoing malolactic fermentation. A tasting note seems almost superfluous. Smoked chickenX 4112Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Reserve Bin Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Penfolds Reserve Bin Chardonnay Penfolds $26-50 14/7/98 13/1/98 Penfolds E[5wine glasses] 1994 Bin 94A. Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet is driven by extremely rich, complex and tangy fruit which has largely swallowed up the oak. That oak becomes a little more evident on the palate which is as full flavoured and complex as virtually any Australian Chardonnay could expect to be. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Bin 94A. Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet is driven by extremely rich, complex and tangy fruit which has largely swallowed up the oak. That oak becomes a little more evident on the palate which is as full flavoured and complex as virtually any Australian Chardonnay could expect to be.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Kangarilla RoadP Made by previous owner Graham Stevens from grapes grown partly on the estate vineyards and partly from two low-cropping vineyards in the Seaview and Blewitt Springs areas. Open fermentation was followed by maturation in American oak hogshead and barriques of varying ages. Barbecued beefX 4113Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Kangarilla Road Shiraz c!Kangarilla Road Vineyard & Winery $11-15 14/7/98 13/1/98 %!Kangarilla Road Vineyard & Winery [3wine glasses] 1995 Strong red-purple; slightly raw oak is not fully integrated and sits on top of the fruit. The palate is powerful but fairly disjointed in November 1997, surprising given the age of the wine. May come together with more bottle age. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; slightly raw oak is not fully integrated and sits on top of the fruit. The palate is powerful but fairly disjointed in November 1997, surprising given the age of the wine. May come together with more bottle age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 BrokenwoodP 18.50 First made in 1987, taking its name from the fact that the vineyard immediately adjacent to the Brokenwood winery was once the site of a cricket field. The wine in fact has had no greater connection than the name with that vineyard, as it has been sourced from grapes grown in various parts of Australia, typically McLaren Vale, Mount Barker, Cowra, Coonawarra and the Hunter Valley. To add spice to the mix, it is a blend of 48% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Shiraz. It stands apart frB9om most Brokenwood reds as a smooth early-drinking style. Pork spare ribsX 4114Y 14/7/98 Lower Hunter Valley Cricket Pitch Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Brokenwood Cricket Pitch Red Brokenwood $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 Brokenwood [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the clean and smooth bouquet shows ripe sweet fruit of medium intensity with well-balanced and integrated oak. The palate is clean and well balanced, with lively red berry and mint fruit, subtle oak and fine tannins. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the clean and smooth bouquet shows ripe sweet fruit of medium intensity with well-balanced and integrated oak. The palate is clean and well balanced, with lively red berry and mint fruit, subtle oak and fine tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Kangarilla RoadP BGraham Stevens planted zinfandel almost 30 years ago, sometimes releasing it as a straight varietal, but more often blending it with other reds. As the 96 shows, it is not only capable of producing an interesting wine, but a very good one, and once again raises the question why so little zinfandel is grown in Australia. Spiced Moroccan lambX 4115Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale N Zinfandel Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Kangarilla Road Zinfandel c!Kangarilla Road Vineyard & Winery $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 %!Kangarilla Road Vineyard & Winery )[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; there are most attractive tobacco and spice edges to the dark berry fruit of the bouquet. The palate is akin to a grenache with balls; emphatic blackberry, tobacco and cigar box flavours running through bright juicy berry fruit. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; there are most attractive tobacco and spice edges to the dark berry fruit of the bouquet. The palate is akin to a grenache with balls; emphatic blackberry, tobacco and cigar box flavours running through bright juicy berry fruit. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 SmithbrookP ,A debut release from 1995, which lends strong support to the view held by some that the Pemberton/Warren region is in fact better suited to the Bordeaux varieties than the Burgundian. Aged in 100% new French oak barriques, the wine won a series of gold medals following its first show in August 1997. Milk-fed vealX 4116Y 14/7/98a Pemberton Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Smithbrook Merlot Smithbrook $26-50 14/7/98 13/1/98 Smithbrook ;[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is smooth, with gently sweet/ripe fruit and cleverly balanced and integrated oak. There is a mix of sweet fruit, cedar and faintly chocolatey undertones on the palate; the major feature of the wine is its silky mouthfeel and structure. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is smooth, with gently sweet/ripe fruit and cleverly balanced and integrated oak. There is a mix of sweet fruit, cedar and faintly chocolatey undertones on the palate; the major feature of the wine is its silky mouthfeel and structure.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 St HubertsP One can but wonder how St Huberts attains such sweetness in difficult vintages. It is perfectly legal to incorporate 15% of wine from (say) Baileys at Glenrowan, and maybe this is the answer. However that may be, what is most important is the end result, which is impressive. Lamb kebabsX 4177Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia St Huberts Cabernet Merlot St Huberts $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 St Huberts [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the aromas are predominantly in the spicy/leafy spectrum, but there is some attractive cassis fruit there, if not quite of the same impressive quality as the Cabernet of the same vintage. The palate, however, shows much more of that cassis blackcurrant fruit, and is richer than the bouquet suggests. Fine, supple tannins and subtle oak round off an impressive achievement for a difficult vintage for the late-ripening varieties. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the aromas are predominantly in the spicy/leafy spectrum, but there is some attractive cassis fruit there, if not quite of the same impressive quality as the Cabernet of the same vintage. The palate, however, shows much more of that cassis blackcurrant fruit, and is richer than the bouquet suggests. Fine, supple tannins and subtle oak round off an impressive achievement for a difficult vintage for the late-ripening varieties.<t9h119.9997z7f (B2"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 9.95Q A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon from McLaren Vale and 45% Shiraz from Langhorne Creek, given only light oak treatment, and made as an early drinking style.S or terrineX 4118Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale M St Helene Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia St Helene Cabernet Shiraz Beresford Wines e under $10 14/7/98 13/1/98 Beresford Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple, bright and clear; there are fresh red berry and soft vanilla aromas leading logically into a lighter-style palate, with smooth red berry fruit and soft tannins on the finish. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple, bright and clear; there are fresh red berry and soft vanilla aromas leading logically into a lighter-style palate, with smooth red berry fruit and soft tannins on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Eyton-on-YarraP 19.50Q A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, all estate-grown on the home Eyton vineyard. The wine is given prolonged post-fermentation maceration for four weeks and is matured in a mix of French and American oak for two years. S Mature cheeseX 4119Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Eyton-on-Yarra Cabernets Eyton-on-Yarra $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 Eyton-on-Yarra [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; A clean, soft bouquet of medium intensity with well-balanced fruit and oak. The flavours are a mix of red berry, leaf, spice and mint; not particularly concentrated or complex, but easy drinking. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; A clean, soft bouquet of medium intensity with well-balanced fruit and oak. The flavours are a mix of red berry, leaf, spice and mint; not particularly concentrated or complex, but easy drinking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 MildaraP Released in late 1997 in a seemingly deliberate challenge to claim of Koppamurra Wines to the exclusive use of Koppamurra as a regional name, for this wine is indeed produced from Mildara's vineyards in the Koppamurra/Naracoorte Ranges area, and says so on its label. Matured in a mix of French and American oak barrels, the label and the press release are likely to cause more excitement than the wine itself. Lamb filletX 4120Y 10/7/98a Coonawarra Flanagan s Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _+Mildara Flanagan s Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Mildara (Coonawarra) 10/7/98 13/1/98 Mildara (Coonawarra) ,[3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; modest red berry fruit of light to medium intensity is supported by some cedar and vanilla oak, and a few spicy notes. A pleasant wine on the palate, of light to medium weight, with gentle red berry fruit, and touches of cedar here and there. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; modest red berry fruit of light to medium intensity is supported by some cedar and vanilla oak, and a few spicy notes. A pleasant wine on the palate, of light to medium weight, with gentle red berry fruit, and touches of cedar here and there.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Brangayne of OrangeP 14.15Q A silver medal winner in Class 3 at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show, and well-deserving of that award. Skilful winemaking, subtle use of oak and excellent cool-climate fruit are the ingredients.S CalamariX 4121Y 14/7/98a Orange Premium Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Brangayne of Orange Premium Chardonnay Brangayne of Orange $11-15 14/7/98 13/1/98 Brangayne of Orange ![4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is spotlessly clean, of light to medium intensity, with melon and citrus fruit; almost imperceptible oak. The palate is similarly lively, fresh and clean, with attractive melon and citrus flavours, and a clean finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is spotlessly clean, of light to medium intensity, with melon and citrus fruit; almost imperceptible oak. The palate is similarly lively, fresh and clean, with attractive melon and citrus flavours, and a clean finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 RiverinaP Produced from low-yielding grapes grown in the Riverina region, predominantly from vineyards owned by Riverina Wines. The second highest pointed gold medal in an extremely distinguished class of 1996 Cabernet Sauvignons at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show. Loin of lambX 4122Y 14/7/98a Riverina Warburn Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _*Riverina Warburn Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Riverina Wines e under $10 14/7/98 13/1/98 Riverina Wines [5wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; the bouquet shows first-class varietal character with a mix of cassis and more earthy notes. The palate is youthful but unforced, and has the balance to develop well. For how long is the question is much more difficult to answer. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; the bouquet shows first-class varietal character with a mix of cassis and more earthy notes. The palate is youthful but unforced, and has the balance to develop well. For how long is the question is much more difficult to answer.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Lengs & CooterP Produced from grapes grown on four small Clare Valley vineyards matured for 12 months in American oak. A silver medal winner at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show.S Rib of beefX 4123Y 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Clare Valley Old Vines Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _,Lengs & Cooter Clare Valley Old Vines Shiraz Lengs & Cooter $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 Lengs & Cooter [4wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; super sweet black cherry and chocolate fruit constitutes the core of the wine both on the bouquet and palate. There are fine tannins to provide structure and balance, and an attractive hint of mint also appears on the palate. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; super sweet black cherry and chocolate fruit constitutes the core of the wine both on the bouquet and palate. There are fine tannins to provide structure and balance, and an attractive hint of mint also appears on the palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Rocklea VineyardP This is the fourth vintage from the Deadman's Creek vineyard of Rockley, showing Bill Sneddon's contract winemaking skills to good advantage. S Flathead filletsX 4124Y 10/7/98 Norma Catherine Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _+Rocklea Vineyard Norma Catherine Chardonnay Rocklea Vineyard 10/7/98 13/1/98 Rocklea Vineyard '[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; light, crisp slightly lemony fruit is supported by a touch of charry oak on the bouquet. The palate is elegant and well balanced, with some minerally aspects along with the citrussy fruit. Good outcome for a difficult vintage. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; light, crisp slightly lemony fruit is supported by a touch of charry oak on the bouquet. The palate is elegant and well balanced, with some minerally aspects along with the citrussy fruit. Good outcome for a difficult vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Kim CrawfordP 24.95 VMade from grapes grown by Paul Tietjen, one of Gisborne's most respected viticulturists. His vineyard sits below the Ormond Hills, and is one of Gisborne's coolest. Oxidatively handled juice was barrel-fermented in new American oak, and kept in barrel for six months with weekly lees stirring. Malolactic fermentation occurred spontaneously. New Zealand whitebaitX 4125Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Tietjen Gisborne Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _(Kim Crawford Tietjen Gisborne Chardonnay Kim Crawford Wines $21-25 14/7/98 13/1/98 Kim Crawford Wines [5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; very well balanced and integrated fruit, oak and malolactic fermentation components on the bouquet are repeated to perfection on the palate. It has almost buttery viscosity, with subtle oak woven throughout; the malolactic component is judged to perfection, the acid persistent but soft on a long finish. Outstanding winemaking. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; very well balanced and integrated fruit, oak and malolactic fermentation components on the bouquet are repeated to perfection on the palate. It has almost buttery viscosity, with subtle oak woven throughout; the malolactic component is judged to perfection, the acid persistent but soft on a long finish. Outstanding winemaking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 GN Fox CreekP 30QLEstate-grown; a gold medal winner at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show.S Grilled beefX 4126Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Fox Creek Reserve Shiraz Fox Creek Wines $26-50 14/7/98 13/1/98 Fox Creek Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; there is masses of powerful, earthy shiraz on the bouquet and a mix of mint, black cherry and earthy varietal fruit on the palate, supported by strong tannins. The oak influence is subtle. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; there is masses of powerful, earthy shiraz on the bouquet and a mix of mint, black cherry and earthy varietal fruit on the palate, supported by strong tannins. The oak influence is subtle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 RiverinaP Produced from estate-grown grapes, and yet another gold medal winner for Riverina Wines at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show. What is more, it was the second highest pointed wine in the largest class in the show, 120 of the country's best 1996 Chardonnays. Fricassee of vealX 4127Y 14/7/98a Riverina M"Ballingal Estate Premium Selection Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _6Riverina Ballingal Estate Premium Selection Chardonnay Riverina Wines e under $10 14/7/98 13/1/98 Riverina Wines [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a complex and exceptionally intensely flavoured wine, particularly given its origins. Powerful fruit is supported by nutty, smoky bacon oak on a long, lingering finish. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a complex and exceptionally intensely flavoured wine, particularly given its origins. Powerful fruit is supported by nutty, smoky bacon oak on a long, lingering finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 OrlandoP Produced entirely from Padthaway-grown grapes with an ultra-careful process of selection. The partially clarified juice was barrel-fermented in new French oak barriques and given prolonged lees contact. The 1996, which may prove to be a one-off bottling, commenced its gold medal and trophy-winning career at the Adelaide Wine Show in 1996, winning the Bert Bear Memorial Trophy at the 1997 Royal Sydney Wine Show, and winning multiple trophies at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show includiBTng trophies for Best Dry White Table Wine of Show and Best White Table Wine of Show. Volute of chickenX 4128Y 10/7/98a Padthaway Jacobs Creek Limited Release Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _/Orlando Jacobs Creek Limited Release Chardonnay Orlando (Padthaway) 10/7/98 13/1/98 Orlando 7[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; an exceedingly complex bouquet with powerful white peach fruit and positively handled but well-integrated French oak. Equally complex and rich on the palate, with white peach and nectarine flavours, hints of cashew and the oak under restraint. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; an exceedingly complex bouquet with powerful white peach fruit and positively handled but well-integrated French oak. Equally complex and rich on the palate, with white peach and nectarine flavours, hints of cashew and the oak under restraint.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Riverina WinesP Another outstanding wine from estate-grown grapes which well and truly challenges the view that the Riverina region cannot produce first class red wines. Top gold medal in the Commercial Dry Red Firm Finish Class at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show.S Yearling beefX 4129Y 14/7/98a Riverina M Ridgewood Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _+Riverina Wines Ridgewood Cabernet Sauvignon Riverina Wines $11-15 14/7/98 13/1/98 Riverina Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Youthful purple; excellent cassis and earth Cabernet varietal aromas supported by subtle oak on the bouquet. A well-balanced wine on the palate with a mix of cassis, mint and earthy fruit flavours, supported by firm but not aggressive tannins. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Youthful purple; excellent cassis and earth Cabernet varietal aromas supported by subtle oak on the bouquet. A well-balanced wine on the palate with a mix of cassis, mint and earthy fruit flavours, supported by firm but not aggressive tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 TatachillaP 13.50 The inaugural release (1996) of Partners won a gold medal at the 1997 International Wine Challenge in London, an auspicious start. But this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, sourced from the relatively unfashionable South Australian Riverland and Adelaide Plains areas hit even greater heights with the 97 release, winning a gold medal at the Liquorland National Wine Show in Canberra in November 1997, before receiving the Arthur Kelman Trophy at the 1998 Royal Sydney Wine Show. Marinated beefX 4130Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Partners Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _-Tatachilla Partners Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Tatachilla $11-15 14/7/98 13/1/98 Tatachilla =[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Strong purple; a vibrant and intense wine, tending firm throughout both bouquet and palate, but neither excessively extractive nor astringent. Very clever winemaking, but one cannot help wonder whether an extra few months in barrel might not have produced an even-better wine. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Strong purple; a vibrant and intense wine, tending firm throughout both bouquet and palate, but neither excessively extractive nor astringent. Very clever winemaking, but one cannot help wonder whether an extra few months in barrel might not have produced an even-better wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 YalumbaP 14.95 Part of a new range of Yalumba wines released in 1997. Predominantly Barossa Valley fruit, with a lesser component from the Eden Valley. Won The Wine Society trophy for Best Dry Red Table Wine, Large Commercial Classes at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show. Rare beef filletX 4131Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Barossa Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Yalumba Barossa Shiraz Yalumba $11-15 14/7/98 13/1/98 Yalumba [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a soft, easy wine, with spice and plum fruit aromas supported by quite positive vanillin American oak. The palate shows more of the same, finishing with soft tannins, and with the oak input an integral part of the style. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a soft, easy wine, with spice and plum fruit aromas supported by quite positive vanillin American oak. The palate shows more of the same, finishing with soft tannins, and with the oak input an integral part of the style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Kim CrawfordP 19.95 Winning the top gold medal in Class 1 at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show, sweeping aside all of the Australian Rieslings, tells part of the story of a particularly unusual wine. The other part of the story comes from its chemistry: the grapes were left on the vine until 15 May, the Indian summer of 1997 preventing any botrytis infection. Yet the grapes were so ripe the wine has 13 degrees alcohol, very rare for a conventional Riesling, balanced 8 grams per litre of acidity and 7 gra ms per litre of residual sugar (thus technically dry, even by Australian show standards). The wine was cold-fermented, and fermentation stopped naturally with the subliminal sweetness evident, and coming from that touch of residual sugar. CalamariX 4132Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Marlborough Dry Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _%Kim Crawford Marlborough Dry Riesling Kim Crawford Wines $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 Kim Crawford Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a powerful, quite racy bouquet; a similarly intense palate with tastes of citrus, nettle and mineral; considerable structure and depth. A Riesling for Chardonnay drinkers. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a powerful, quite racy bouquet; a similarly intense palate with tastes of citrus, nettle and mineral; considerable structure and depth. A Riesling for Chardonnay drinkers.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 St HallettP 17.95Q A wine which burst from the ruck in 1997, winning a trophy at the 1997 Barossa Valley Wine Show, and then going on to win a gold medal in Class 1 at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show. Eden Valley Riesling at its best.S CrabX 4133Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Eden Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia St Hallett Eden Valley Riesling St Hallett $16-20 14/7/98 13/1/98 St Hallett [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a classic, dry minerally, toasty bouquet leads into a similarly classically constructed, reserved and long-flavoured palate. A wine which will mature magnificently in bottle. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a classic, dry minerally, toasty bouquet leads into a similarly classically constructed, reserved and long-flavoured palate. A wine which will mature magnificently in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 RiverinaP Part of the Riverina Wines juggernaut at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show, winning the only gold medal in (the relatively small) Class 6.S Roast chickenX 4134Y 14/7/98a Riverina M Ridgewood Semillon Chardonnay White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _&Riverina Ridgewood Semillon Chardonnay Riverina Wines e under $10 14/7/98 13/1/98 Riverina Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Extremely sophisticated winemaking evident, with a seamless marriage of fruit and oak in a wine with considerable power and length. Was 4.5 points clear of the next highest-pointed wine in the class. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Extremely sophisticated winemaking evident, with a seamless marriage of fruit and oak in a wine with considerable power and length. Was 4.5 points clear of the next highest-pointed wine in the class.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 RiverinaP In an almost embarrassing display, another wine to top its class (4.5 points clear of the next nearest wine, as was the case for the Semillon Chardonnay) at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show. S Pasta marinaraX 4135Y 14/7/98a Riverina M Ballingal Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Riverina Ballingal Semillon Riverina Wines e under $10 14/7/98 13/1/98 Riverina Wines M[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a complex, powerful and already quite developed bouquet with subtle oak supporting the fruit. There is plenty of ripe varietal flavour in a lemony spectrum balanced by a hint of sweetness which may come from fruit or a well-judged flick of residual sugar. Best now. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a complex, powerful and already quite developed bouquet with subtle oak supporting the fruit. There is plenty of ripe varietal flavour in a lemony spectrum balanced by a hint of sweetness which may come from fruit or a well-judged flick of residual sugar. Best now.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Seppelt Great WesternP First released in 1994, and made entirely from Great Western Riesling. Chronically under-appreciated and underpriced in the market, and deserves far more recognition. A gold and silver medal winner at national wine shows in 1996 and 1997. S Asian cuisineX 4136Y 10/7/98a Grampians Sheoak Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _%Seppelt Great Western Sheoak Riesling Seppelt Great Western 10/7/98 13/1/98 Seppelt Great Western 6[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium green-yellow; a wonderful mix of citrus, lime and more tropical notes on the bouquet, but the palate showing the tightness and restraint which will guarantee the wine a long life. The barest hint of residual sugar does no more than flesh out the finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; a wonderful mix of citrus, lime and more tropical notes on the bouquet, but the palate showing the tightness and restraint which will guarantee the wine a long life. The barest hint of residual sugar does no more than flesh out the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 St LeonardsP 6Part of the relaunch of the St Leonards label in late 1997. Produced from 77-year-old vines known as Mid Flats Shiraz, on a patch of the vineyard which has been subject to intermittent flooding. A trophy winner at the 1997 Rutherglen Wine Show and a gold medal winner at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show. Grilled chopsX 4137Y 14/7/98a Rutherglen M Wahgunyah Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia St Leonards Wahgunyah Shiraz St Leonards $21-25 14/7/98 14/1/98 St Leonards J[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; there is lots of dense fruit on the bouquet, with slightly raw American oak also present. Once again, the oak is aggressive and oppressive on the palate; a pity given the quality of the underlying fruit. Time may well help the balance of the wine but I am not convinced. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; there is lots of dense fruit on the bouquet, with slightly raw American oak also present. Once again, the oak is aggressive and oppressive on the palate; a pity given the quality of the underlying fruit. Time may well help the balance of the wine but I am not convinced.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 TatachillaP ;1995 was the first vintage under this label, produced from grapes grown at an altitude of 215 metres above the floor of McLaren Vale. The wine is made in open fermenters, pressed before dryness, and matured in a mix of predominantly French (80%) and American oak, half-new and half-used. A particularly good Merlot. Rack of vealX 4138Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Clarendon Vineyard Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _$Tatachilla Clarendon Vineyard Merlot Tatachilla $16-20 14/7/98 14/1/98 Tatachilla [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Deep red-purple; both bouquet and palate show excellent varietal definition with fresh earthy berry fruit. The structure of the wine is particularly pleasing, with fine tannins and subtle oak. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Deep red-purple; both bouquet and palate show excellent varietal definition with fresh earthy berry fruit. The structure of the wine is particularly pleasing, with fine tannins and subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 TN Delegat An outstanding Hawke's Bay Sauvignon Blanc, picked ripe and partially fermented in barrel, part in stainless steel, before being given up to six months barrel maturation. The oak handling is sophisticated and sensitive, and in no way threatens the fruit. One of the relatively rare Sauvignon Blancs which ages well, the 96 winning the only gold medal in the 1996 and Older Sauvignon Blanc Class at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show of Australia. AbaloneX 4139Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Proprietors Reserve Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _-Delegat s Proprietors Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Delegat s Wine Estate $16-20 14/7/98 14/1/98 Delegat s Wine Estate e[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; there is no sign of phenolic break-up, no sign of the weedy vegetable characters which often appear in aged Sauvignon Blanc. Both the bouquet and palate are fresh, with ripe, tropical gooseberry fruit, the oak contributing as much to the structure of the wine as it does to its flavour. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there is no sign of phenolic break-up, no sign of the weedy vegetable characters which often appear in aged Sauvignon Blanc. Both the bouquet and palate are fresh, with ripe, tropical gooseberry fruit, the oak contributing as much to the structure of the wine as it does to its flavour.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 SeaviewP Produced from Verdelho predominantly grown at one of the few verdelho vineyards in McLaren Vale, with a small component of Padthaway material. Unoaked and early-bottled. The 96 produced one of the major surprises of the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show, topping Class 22. Light Asian dishesX 4140Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Seaview Verdelho Seaview e under $10 14/7/98 14/1/98 Seaview [4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium straw-green; intense, tangy citrussy passionfruit aromas and fruit flavours mark a wine with unusual length and persistence of flavour. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium straw-green; intense, tangy citrussy passionfruit aromas and fruit flavours mark a wine with unusual length and persistence of flavour.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Ravenswood LaneP Produced from 2 hectares of estate Sauvignon Blanc, part of the first planting in 1993. A pleasant wine which in its early vintages will inevitably show some young vine character.S Prawns in the shellX 4141Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills The Gathering Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _-Ravenswood Lane The Gathering Sauvignon Blanc Ravenswood Lane Vineyard $16-20 14/7/98 14/1/98 Ravenswood Lane Vineyard *[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with pleasantly ripe gooseberry fruit aromas. The palate is of medium intensity with clearly articulated varietal character, but lacks the richness of the best wines, and finishes slightly short. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with pleasantly ripe gooseberry fruit aromas. The palate is of medium intensity with clearly articulated varietal character, but lacks the richness of the best wines, and finishes slightly short.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Chain of PondsP 19QrFirst produced in 1997, and met with immediate success, winning a gold medal at the 1997 Adelaide Hills Wine Show.S Crab mornayX 4142Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _'Chain of Ponds Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Chain of Ponds $16-20 14/7/98 15/1/98 Chain of Ponds [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Bright yellow-green; the aromatic sauvignon blanc component is obvious on the bouquet, but on the palate the two varieties mesh neatly together, producing a most attractive wine with excellent flavour and balance. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright yellow-green; the aromatic sauvignon blanc component is obvious on the bouquet, but on the palate the two varieties mesh neatly together, producing a most attractive wine with excellent flavour and balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 TalungaP NAQ7Estate-grown, rich and full; stainless steel fermented.S MusselsX 4143Y 10/7/98a Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Talunga Sauvignon Blanc Talunga 10/7/98 15/1/98 Talunga [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; ripe gooseberry/tropical aromas of medium to full intensity build further on a full-blown tropical/gooseberry palate. Good length. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; ripe gooseberry/tropical aromas of medium to full intensity build further on a full-blown tropical/gooseberry palate. Good length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Ravenswood LaneP Complex winemaking techniques and what is obviously a very promising vineyard have produced a spectacular first wine, one of only two gold medals in the strong Chardonnay Class at the 1997 Adelaide Hills Wine Show.S Wiener schnitzelX 4144Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Ravenswood Lane Chardonnay Ravenswood Lane Vineyard $26-50 14/7/98 15/1/98 Ravenswood Lane Vineyard [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a stylish bouquet with strong toasty oak and nutty malolactic fermentation influences are largely mirrored on the palate, where barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation both make a very strong statement. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a stylish bouquet with strong toasty oak and nutty malolactic fermentation influences are largely mirrored on the palate, where barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation both make a very strong statement. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Nepenthe VineyardsP Both wooded and unwooded versions of Chardonnay are produced by Nepenthe; the unwooded is inevitably less complex, but well crafted.S Blue swimmer crabX 4145Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Nepenthe Vineyards Unwooded Chardonnay Nepenthe Vineyards $11-15 14/7/98 15/1/98 Nepenthe Vineyards [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; fragrant, fine melon and apple fruit aromas are repeated on a delicately crisp palate with reasonable length. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; fragrant, fine melon and apple fruit aromas are repeated on a delicately crisp palate with reasonable length. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Ashton HillsP 22QjLike all the Ashton Hills wines, relatively slow-developing, progressively building complexity as it ages.S Roast vealX 4146Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Ashton Hills Chardonnay Ashton Hills $21-25 14/7/98 15/1/98 Ashton Hills [4wine glasses] 1995 Glowing yellow-green; now has very complex and toasty bottle-developed aroma; the palate shows similar complex, bottle-developed characters with fig and melon fruit under more toasty/buttery characters. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; now has very complex and toasty bottle-developed aroma; the palate shows similar complex, bottle-developed characters with fig and melon fruit under more toasty/buttery characters.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 GlenaraP Situated in the warmer, western side of the Adelaide Hills as Glenara is, it is not the least bit surprising that its Pinot Noir is very full-bodied. The 96 was good enough to win a silver medal at the 1997 Adelaide Hills Wine Show.S Strong red meat dishesX 4147Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Limited Release Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _"Glenara Limited Release Pinot Noir Glenara Wines $21-25 14/7/98 15/1/98 Glenara Wines >[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Excellent, strong red-purple; the bouquet is solid, with powerful ripe fruit, but tending to dry red in style. Substantial oak input comes through on the palate, but there is solid fruit there to sustain that oak. Will be greatly enjoyed by those who like fuller-bodied Pinots. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Excellent, strong red-purple; the bouquet is solid, with powerful ripe fruit, but tending to dry red in style. Substantial oak input comes through on the palate, but there is solid fruit there to sustain that oak. Will be greatly enjoyed by those who like fuller-bodied Pinots.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 ]N ParacombeP One of the few varietal Cabernet Francs being made in Australia, the others of note coming from Knappstein and Chatsfield. A silver medal winner at the 1997 Adelaide Hills Wine Show.S PastramiX 4148Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Cabernet Franc Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Paracombe Cabernet Franc Paracombe Wines $16-20 14/7/98 15/1/98 Paracombe Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; the sweet minty fruit aromas of the bouquet are repeated more or less precisely on the palate, which is ripe, with minty/berry flavours and a nicely judged touch of oak. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the sweet minty fruit aromas of the bouquet are repeated more or less precisely on the palate, which is ripe, with minty/berry flavours and a nicely judged touch of oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Ravenswood LaneP *A striking first-up red, with the Hardy winemaking stamp firmly on it, but also with some fruit characters reminiscent of the extreme southern end of the Napa Valley around a little town called Coombsville. The aroma and flavour is quite unique, and I have only encountered it once or twice before. Highly spiced red meatX 4149Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Reunion Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Ravenswood Lane Reunion Shiraz Ravenswood Lane Vineyard $26-50 14/7/98 15/1/98 Ravenswood Lane Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; powerful fruit on the bouquet is supported by strong charry toasty oak. The vibrant, youthful and juicy palate has lantana-like overtones, running into exotic oriental fruits. Unconventional but very interesting. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; powerful fruit on the bouquet is supported by strong charry toasty oak. The vibrant, youthful and juicy palate has lantana-like overtones, running into exotic oriental fruits. Unconventional but very interesting.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Galah WineP Although, as ever, the precise source of the wine is not stated, it is highly probable it is declassified Wendouree. What does not come up to the mark for Wendouree is better than most mortals would hope for.S Braised ox cheekX 4150Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Clare Valley Cabernet Malbec Cabernet Blends Z Australia _'Galah Wine Clare Valley Cabernet Malbec Galah Wine $11-15 14/7/98 22/1/98 Galah Wine [4.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is wonderfully rich and full, with sweet dark chocolate, dark plum and blackberry fruit, the palate rather more austere, with the Cabernet component dominant, and finishing with persistent, lingering tannins. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is wonderfully rich and full, with sweet dark chocolate, dark plum and blackberry fruit, the palate rather more austere, with the Cabernet component dominant, and finishing with persistent, lingering tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Galah WineP The base for this wine, Clare Valley Shiraz, spent five years in old oak before being tiraged (refermented) and ultimately being liqueured with Shiraz Vintage Port from 1976 and 1981. Not surprisingly, an extremely complex and stylish wine.S Cold smoked meatsX 4151Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Sparkling Shiraz X Sparkling Sparkling Red Z Australia Galah Wine Sparkling Shiraz Galah Wine $26-50 14/7/98 22/1/98 Galah Wine B[4wine glasses] 1992 Medium red; the bouquet has gently sweet, faintly earthy fruit with hints of vanilla, possibly coming from the old oak, possibly just from the age of the base wine. The palate is complex, with earthy Shiraz of medium weight and not too sweet; the wine picks up pace on a long finish. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1992 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet has gently sweet, faintly earthy fruit with hints of vanilla, possibly coming from the old oak, possibly just from the age of the base wine. The palate is complex, with earthy Shiraz of medium weight and not too sweet; the wine picks up pace on a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Catherine ValeP 12.80 Produced from 1.75 hectares of estate plantings, made in the traditional simple style, cold fermented in stainless steel and early bottled. S NAU ShellfishX 4152Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Catherine Vale Semillon Catherine Vale Vineyard $11-15 14/7/98 22/1/98 Catherine Vale Vineyard U[3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is solid, with some incipient honey aromas, and hints of that faintly medicinal character found in many Hunter Valley white wines, and in particular Semillons. The palate is of medium weight, with lemony/minerally flavours, and good acidity on a relatively long finish. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is solid, with some incipient honey aromas, and hints of that faintly medicinal character found in many Hunter Valley white wines, and in particular Semillons. The palate is of medium weight, with lemony/minerally flavours, and good acidity on a relatively long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Catherine ValeP 14.50Q Like the Semillon, drawn from 1.75 hectares of estate plantings, fermented in stainless steel and then transferred to small American oak for maturation.S Yakitori chickenX 4153Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Catherine Vale Chardonnay Catherine Vale Vineyard $11-15 14/7/98 22/1/98 Catherine Vale Vineyard S[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is solid, again with a hint of that slight medicinal character which detracts from the mix of toasty/buttery and peach fruit. The palate is nicely weighted and balanced, fruit driven with a mix of tangy peach and citrus flavours, balanced by a hint of vanillin oak. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is solid, again with a hint of that slight medicinal character which detracts from the mix of toasty/buttery and peach fruit. The palate is nicely weighted and balanced, fruit driven with a mix of tangy peach and citrus flavours, balanced by a hint of vanillin oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Diamond ValleyP 23.85 In 1995 Diamond Valley took a one-off decision to separately bottle each of the components of the wine which normally goes to make a Bordeaux-blend: namely Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot. It is an interesting exercise for the wine student, or anyone wishing to see what lies behind a blend of this kind. You can even have a dinner party and make a DIY blend as you go along. It just so happens that the Cabernet Sauvignon is by far the best of the four components. Marinated beefX 4154Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _(Diamond Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Valley Vineyards $21-25 14/7/98 22/1/98 Diamond Valley Vineyards [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is the richest of the four wines, with dark berry fruit touched by chocolate. The palate likewise having another dimension of power with blackberry, cherry and cedar nuances; good tannins, structure and length. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is the richest of the four wines, with dark berry fruit touched by chocolate. The palate likewise having another dimension of power with blackberry, cherry and cedar nuances; good tannins, structure and length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Dromana EstateP Estate-grown from immaculately tended vineyards, barrel-fermented and given eight months in barriques on its lees. If malolactic fermentation has been used, it is not obvious.S CrabX 4155Y 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Dromana Estate Chardonnay Dromana Estate $21-25 14/7/98 22/1/98 Dromana Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a clean, penetrating citrus blossom and mineral bouquet is followed by a lively, fresh citrussy/tangy palate with neatly balanced acidity. The oak is there, but very much in the background. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a clean, penetrating citrus blossom and mineral bouquet is followed by a lively, fresh citrussy/tangy palate with neatly balanced acidity. The oak is there, but very much in the background.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Dromana EstateP Like the Chardonnay, estate-grown. Also like the Chardonnay, showing to the full the impact of a magnificent vintage in the region. S Grilled quailX 4156Y 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Dromana Estate Pinot Noir Dromana Estate $26-50 14/7/98 22/1/98 Dromana Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; sweet, full plummy varietal fruit with hints of spice flood the bouquet; the palate is no less attractive, with delicious plum, cherry and spice fruit flavours showing exemplary varietal character. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; sweet, full plummy varietal fruit with hints of spice flood the bouquet; the palate is no less attractive, with delicious plum, cherry and spice fruit flavours showing exemplary varietal character.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Lauren BrookP Produced from grapes grown in small local vineyards in the vicinity of Bridgetown, and exhibiting promising varietal character.S Beef with olivesX 4157Y 14/7/98a Other Wineries of WA Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Lauren Brook Cabernet Sauvignon Lauren Brook $16-20 14/7/98 22/1/98 Lauren Brook :[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Bright purple-red; the fruit is clean, of medium intensity, the oak a fraction disjointed on the bouquet. The palate, however, shows good structure and equally good dark berry/cassis varietal character; youthful tannins are on the firm side but should settle down with age. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright purple-red; the fruit is clean, of medium intensity, the oak a fraction disjointed on the bouquet. The palate, however, shows good structure and equally good dark berry/cassis varietal character; youthful tannins are on the firm side but should settle down with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 MarribrookP A blend of equal portions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, which might have done with a touch more time in oak and more handling in the winery, but which attests to the capacity of the region to produce excellent Malbec.S Rib of beefX 4158Y 14/7/98a Great Southern Cabernet Malbec Cabernet Blends Z Australia Marribrook Cabernet Malbec Marribrook $16-20 14/7/98 22/1/98 Marribrook [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium purple-red; the bouquet is youthful and slightly unformed, but with plenty of clean, fresh fruit. Sweet juicy Malbec flavours, with some more chocolatey notes helps provide an unexpectedly sweet and soft palate, finishing with soft tannins. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the bouquet is youthful and slightly unformed, but with plenty of clean, fresh fruit. Sweet juicy Malbec flavours, with some more chocolatey notes helps provide an unexpectedly sweet and soft palate, finishing with soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 SeaviewP UThe premium sparkling wine from Seaview, first made in 1991. The 93 vintage is a blend of 72% Pinot Noir and 28% Chardonnay, sourced predominantly from the Adelaide Hills and Yarra Valley. The wine spends three years on yeast lees, and during 1996 and 1997 won two trophies and five gold medals in less than 12 months between 1996 and 1997. Salmon rouladeX 4159Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Edwards & Chaffey Pinot Chardonnay X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _*Seaview Edwards & Chaffey Pinot Chardonnay Seaview $21-25 14/7/98 22/1/98 Seaview .[5wine glasses] 1993 Strong yellow-green, with persistent fine bead; an extremely complex bouquet with toasty autolysis characters, almost charry yet not rough, is followed by an intense and still tight palate. Citrussy flavours run through a long finish with neatly balanced acidity. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1993 <f"Bembo">Strong yellow-green, with persistent fine bead; an extremely complex bouquet with toasty autolysis characters, almost charry yet not rough, is followed by an intense and still tight palate. Citrussy flavours run through a long finish with neatly balanced acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 St HallettP 13.95Q Fits in above Poacher's Blend, but, like it and Gamekeeper's Reserve, aimed fairly and squarely at the caf and brasserie market. Unwooded, of course.S Fish and chipsX 4160Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _#St Hallett Semillon Sauvignon Blanc St Hallett $11-15 14/7/98 22/1/98 St Hallett [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, fresh, light herbal bouquet and a fresh, lively tangy palate, with good length, all attest to early bottling (and early consumption). RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, fresh, light herbal bouquet and a fresh, lively tangy palate, with good length, all attest to early bottling (and early consumption).<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 St HallettP 28.95 Blackwell Shiraz, named after long-term winemaker Stuart Blackwell, fits in between Faith Shiraz and Old Block. On the evidence of the 95, it is in fact far closer to Old Block than to Faith, and had better keep its distance. S Lamb shanksX 4161Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley M Blackwell Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia St Hallett Blackwell Shiraz St Hallett $26-50 14/7/98 22/1/98 St Hallett ?[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a smooth bouquet with touches of chocolate and earth surrounded by obvious but well-balanced and integrated vanillin oak; the palate has an extra dimension, with plum, cherry and chocolate fruit, again supported by nicely judged oak. Finishes with soft tannins. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a smooth bouquet with touches of chocolate and earth surrounded by obvious but well-balanced and integrated vanillin oak; the palate has an extra dimension, with plum, cherry and chocolate fruit, again supported by nicely judged oak. Finishes with soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Stringy BraeP 17.50Q Not surprisingly, the 96 won a gold medal at the Clare Valley Regional Wine Show, and is comprehensively the best wine yet from Stringy Brae.S VenisonX 4162Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Stringy Brae Shiraz Stringy Brae $16-20 14/7/98 22/1/98 Stringy Brae -[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a potent bouquet with excellent dark liquorice, leather and boot polish varietal aromas is followed by a richly flavoured palate with abundant dark cherry and dark berry fruit, finishing with supple tannins. The oak is in restraint throughout. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a potent bouquet with excellent dark liquorice, leather and boot polish varietal aromas is followed by a richly flavoured palate with abundant dark cherry and dark berry fruit, finishing with supple tannins. The oak is in restraint throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Stanton & KilleenP /A rare grape variety brought to northeast Victoria around the turn of the century, and which may or may not be the same as California's petite syrah. Wherever grown, it makes a massively dense and potent wine, characteristics enhanced by the climate of northeast Victoria, to which it is ideally suited. GameX 4163Y 14/7/98a Rutherglen Durif Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Stanton & Killeen Durif Stanton & Killeen Wines $16-20 14/7/98 22/1/98 Stanton & Killeen Wines ][4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet runs through dark berry fruit with touches of both liquorice and chocolate, rich and intense. The palate is attractive, with sweet but not heavy or extractive dark chocolate and blackberry fruit supported by a hint of vanilla oak. Despite its size, has balance and style. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet runs through dark berry fruit with touches of both liquorice and chocolate, rich and intense. The palate is attractive, with sweet but not heavy or extractive dark chocolate and blackberry fruit supported by a hint of vanilla oak. Despite its size, has balance and style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Stanton & KilleenP A blend of Shiraz, Touriga and Durif, principally drawn from 75-year-old vines. Has been a prolific medal and trophy winner; the 92 vintage, released in 1998, won trophies for the Best Port at the Rutherglen Show in the year it was made and again in 1997, and has won 11 gold medals. NutsX 4164Y 14/7/98a Rutherglen Vintage Port X Fortified Z Australia Stanton & Killeen Vintage Port Stanton & Killeen Wines $16-20 14/7/98 22/1/98 Stanton & Killeen Wines .[5wine glasses] 1992 Dense red-purple; the bouquet has lovely spicy, dark forest fruits with fine Brandy spirit woven through. The palate is powerful and complex, with tannins running right through bitter chocolate, earth and spice flavours; well balanced, and not excessively sweet. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1992 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet has lovely spicy, dark forest fruits with fine Brandy spirit woven through. The palate is powerful and complex, with tannins running right through bitter chocolate, earth and spice flavours; well balanced, and not excessively sweet. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 ArrowfieldP Arrowfield releases both a Show Reserve Shiraz and a lower-priced varietal Shiraz. Four tastings of each on separate occasions, some in shows and competitions, throughout 1997 left the varietal Shiraz (admittedly from 1995, as opposed to the 94 of the Reserve) a long way in front. The varietal is a quite delicious wine, although one would be hard-pressed to guess that it came as it apparently does from the Hunter Valley. The 95 has won a trophy and several gold medals. Marinated beefX 4165Y 14/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Arrowfield Shiraz Arrowfield $21-25 14/7/98 22/1/98 Arrowfield 5[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; a complex, rich and concentrated bouquet with strong black cherry fruit and full-blooded vanillin oak. There is lots of dark berry, dark chocolate and vanilla oak on the palate, which is textured and layered with pronounced yet soft tannins. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a complex, rich and concentrated bouquet with strong black cherry fruit and full-blooded vanillin oak. There is lots of dark berry, dark chocolate and vanilla oak on the palate, which is textured and layered with pronounced yet soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 oN AugustineP NAQVRichly flavoured, juicy in typical Mudgee style and, of course, technically well made.S Steak and kidney pieX 4166Y 10/7/98a Mudgee Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Augustine Cabernet Sauvignon c Augustine 10/7/98 22/1/98 % Augustine [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a soft, gently plummy bouquet with some spice and earth notes. There is lots of sweet, juicy plummy fruit on the palate, rounded off with soft tannins. Nice mouthfeel. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a soft, gently plummy bouquet with some spice and earth notes. There is lots of sweet, juicy plummy fruit on the palate, rounded off with soft tannins. Nice mouthfeel.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 BianchetP As with all the Bianchet wines, estate-grown and made in limited quantities from two-year-old vines, but without the aid of any new oak.S Peking duckX 4167Y 10/7/98a Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Bianchet Pinot Noir Bianchet 10/7/98 22/1/98 Bianchet ][3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; a quite sweet bouquet with some relatively soft forest and briar notes. An unusual palate, with ripe five-spice flavours together with cherry and plum; I have seen these five-spice characters from time to time in the Yarra Valley, notably in a prior vintage (1990) of Coldstream Hills. Interesting. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; a quite sweet bouquet with some relatively soft forest and briar notes. An unusual palate, with ripe five-spice flavours together with cherry and plum; I have seen these five-spice characters from time to time in the Yarra Valley, notably in a prior vintage (1990) of Coldstream Hills. Interesting.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Cockfighter s GhostP 18.95 Made entirely from Shiraz grown on sandy loam soils in the Fordwich/Broke region. Following brief post-fermentation maceration the wine was transferred to oak, 30% of which was new American barriques, in which the wine spent eight months prior to being bottled. Made by Neil McGuigan. RavioliX 4168Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Cockfighter s Ghost Shiraz Cockfighter s Ghost Vineyard $16-20 14/7/98 22/1/98 Cockfighter s Ghost Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; a clean bouquet, essentially fruit driven with a mix of cherry and earth varietal fruit. The palate is quite powerful, with a mix of cherry, plum and earth; slightly unformed overall, and will benefit from time in bottle. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; a clean bouquet, essentially fruit driven with a mix of cherry and earth varietal fruit. The palate is quite powerful, with a mix of cherry, plum and earth; slightly unformed overall, and will benefit from time in bottle. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Cockfighter s GhostP 15.45Q Made in a no-frills fashion; given six hours skin contact, cold settled then cold fermented and held on lees until being filtered and bottled in July 1997. Made by Phillip Ryan.S Light Asian cuisineX 4169Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _'Cockfighter s Ghost Unwooded Chardonnay Cockfighter s Ghost Vineyard $11-15 14/7/98 23/1/98 Cockfighter s Ghost Vineyard [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a clean bouquet of medium intensity with a mix of melon, citrus and apple aromas, and a fresh palate with good acidity, but not a lot of mid-palate fruit or feel. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a clean bouquet of medium intensity with a mix of melon, citrus and apple aromas, and a fresh palate with good acidity, but not a lot of mid-palate fruit or feel. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 DemondrilleP Comprehensively the best of the Demondrille range, and an extremely good wine, made under the direction of Rodney Hooper before he moved on from Charles Sturt University. S Rare fillet of beefX 4170Y 14/7/98a Hilltops M The Raven Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Demondrille The Raven Shiraz Demondrille Vineyards $16-20 14/7/98 23/1/98 Demondrille Vineyards 2[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; attractive blackberry and dark chocolate fruit aromas are supported by subtle oak on the bouquet; the palate shows abundant and attractive sweet blackberry, plum and chocolate fruit, again supported by well-balanced oak and tannins. Delicious wine. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; attractive blackberry and dark chocolate fruit aromas are supported by subtle oak on the bouquet; the palate shows abundant and attractive sweet blackberry, plum and chocolate fruit, again supported by well-balanced oak and tannins. Delicious wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Eppalock RidgeP 22.50QnProduced from 2 hectares of estate plantings, and the only wine now coming out under the Eppalock Ridge label.S Light red meat dishesX 4171Y 14/7/98a Bendigo Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Eppalock Ridge Shiraz Eppalock Ridge $21-25 14/7/98 23/1/98 Eppalock Ridge [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a clean bouquet with pleasantly sweet fruit and soft American oak. The palate is of light to medium weight, clean and fresh, simply lacking complexity, but quite well put together. RATING: 76 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean bouquet with pleasantly sweet fruit and soft American oak. The palate is of light to medium weight, clean and fresh, simply lacking complexity, but quite well put together.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">76 Evans FamilyP Len Evans planted gamay in the vineyards surrounding his marvellous house in the Hunter in a gesture of defiance. The vines invariably bear a huge crop but in vintages such as 91 and 96 can produce remarkably attractive wine from this rarely seen variety. Smoked pork hock 4172Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chapel Gamay Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Evans Family Chapel Gamay Evans Family $16-20 14/7/98 23/1/98 Evans Family 4[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; there is quite surprising richness and character to the bouquet with a touch of liquorice and that earthy softness unique to the Hunter. On the palate there is abundant spicy/plummy fruit with echoes of liquorice; a really attractive wine. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; there is quite surprising richness and character to the bouquet with a touch of liquorice and that earthy softness unique to the Hunter. On the palate there is abundant spicy/plummy fruit with echoes of liquorice; a really attractive wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Evans & TateP 14.95Q As from 1997 this wine, previously labelled 'Western Australian', has been sourced entirely from (and labelled as) Margaret River. It incorporates fruit from Lionel's Vineyard at Jindong, Evans & Tate's newest vineyard in Margaret River. S Moroccan couscousX 4173Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _+Evans & Tate Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Evans & Tate $11-15 14/7/98 23/1/98 Evans & Tate 2[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a light, crisp slightly herbaceous bouquet with some gooseberry fruit; the palate is similarly crisp, with fruit predominantly in the lemony herbaceous spectrum, with some minerally characters. Neither fleshy nor exuberant, but does have length. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a light, crisp slightly herbaceous bouquet with some gooseberry fruit; the palate is similarly crisp, with fruit predominantly in the lemony herbaceous spectrum, with some minerally characters. Neither fleshy nor exuberant, but does have length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Cambewarra EstateP 18QyProduced from 1.5 hectares of estate plantings, and a wine which has had considerable show success for Cambewarra Estate.S Stir-fried porkX 4174Y 14/7/98a Shoalhaven Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Cambewarra Estate Verdelho Cambewarra Estate $16-20 14/7/98 23/1/98 Cambewarra Estate [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is solid with a mix of already quite developed buttery fruit salad aromas. The palate shows a mix of honeyed, tropical and banana flavours, with balanced acid on the finish preventing the wine from cloying. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is solid with a mix of already quite developed buttery fruit salad aromas. The palate shows a mix of honeyed, tropical and banana flavours, with balanced acid on the finish preventing the wine from cloying.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Cambewarra EstateP Half a hectare of estate plantings produced the first vintage in 1996. The wine is matured in French oak, and shows excellent varietal character. The 96 won a gold medal at the 1997 Cowra Wine Show, then going on to win the trophy for Best Table Wine in the Small Producers classes at the 1998 Royal Sydney Wine Show, an exceptional achievement for Cambewarra Estate and the Shoalhaven region. Illabo lambX 4175Y 14/7/98a Shoalhaven Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _$Cambewarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cambewarra Estate $26-50 14/7/98 23/1/98 Cambewarra Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a rich and full bouquet with potent cassis fruit and charry oak is followed by a palate packed with juicy berry fruit. A brawling youth at the moment, but the potential is undeniable. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a rich and full bouquet with potent cassis fruit and charry oak is followed by a palate packed with juicy berry fruit. A brawling youth at the moment, but the potential is undeniable.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Charles MeltonP Charles Melton is best known for his Shiraz and Rh ne-style reds, but also makes an exceptionally good Cabernet Sauvignon, which he skilfully moulds into the winery style one expects of the label without compromising varietal character.S NAU Braised ox cheek with demi glazeX 4176Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _!Charles Melton Cabernet Sauvignon Charles Melton $26-50 14/7/98 23/1/98 Charles Melton +[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a powerful, ripe dark chocolate, cigar box and cedar bouquet is followed by an exceptionally attractive, ripe textured palate reflecting all of the flavours promised by the bouquet, finishing with good tannins and equally good oak. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a powerful, ripe dark chocolate, cigar box and cedar bouquet is followed by an exceptionally attractive, ripe textured palate reflecting all of the flavours promised by the bouquet, finishing with good tannins and equally good oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 ArenbergP The name is conjured not from a specific grove of olive trees, but rather the olive trees that abound throughout McLaren Vale particularly along old creek beds and watercourses. Very much a Chardonnay made by a red winemaker, rich and opulent, but which has had considerable success in wine competitions, notably overseas. The 96 vintage won a gold medal at the Chardonnay du Monde competition in Burgundy in 1997. GnocciX 4178Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale The Olive Grove Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Arenberg The Olive Grove Chardonnay Arenberg $26-50 14/7/98 23/1/98 Arenberg 8[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a big, rich wine with lots of barrel-ferment characters and abundant ripe, peach and melon fruit on the bouquet. Less fat on the mid-palate than expected, and does have some minerally grip to the finish, helping the overall balance of the wine. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a big, rich wine with lots of barrel-ferment characters and abundant ripe, peach and melon fruit on the bouquet. Less fat on the mid-palate than expected, and does have some minerally grip to the finish, helping the overall balance of the wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 DelatiteP A most interesting varietal from Delatite, a long way removed from the powerful, dense wines of the Clare Valley, but still showing exemplary varietal character, a character which can only be described as jammy, yet not pejoratively so. S Devilled kidneys 4179Y 14/7/98a Central Victorian High Country Malbec Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Delatite Malbec Delatite $21-25 14/7/98 23/1/98 Delatite [4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium red, with just a touch of purple; a clean and clear bouquet with sweet, juicy/jammy berry fruit is tracked precisely by the palate, again showing jammy berry varietal character. Fine tannins and subtle oak do not get in the way. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red, with just a touch of purple; a clean and clear bouquet with sweet, juicy/jammy berry fruit is tracked precisely by the palate, again showing jammy berry varietal character. Fine tannins and subtle oak do not get in the way.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 GlenaraP |QQA new edition to the Glenara range, showing the Adelaide Hills to full advantage.S Asparagus and prosciuttoX 4180Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _ Glenara Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Glenara Wines $16-20 14/7/98 23/1/98 Glenara Wines E[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; there is a mix of gooseberry, herbal and passionfruit aromas on the medium-intensity bouquet; the extremely harmonious palate showcases all the flavours promised by the bouquet, with a long, pleasing finish. The sort of wine which invites the second glass. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there is a mix of gooseberry, herbal and passionfruit aromas on the medium-intensity bouquet; the extremely harmonious palate showcases all the flavours promised by the bouquet, with a long, pleasing finish. The sort of wine which invites the second glass.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 GralynP A pleasant Ros -style made from early-picked Cabernet Sauvignon. The 97 was a bronze medal winner at the 1997 Royal Perth Wine Show.S Summer saladsX 4181Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Cabernet Nouveau Z Australia Gralyn Cabernet Nouveau Gralyn Cellars $11-15 14/7/98 23/1/98 Gralyn Cellars [3wine glasses] 1997 Light red; a crisp, clean, very leafy bouquet showing obvious early-picked cabernet characters. The palate is commensurately light and crisp, with varietal leafy/earthy flavours. Dry finish. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light red; a crisp, clean, very leafy bouquet showing obvious early-picked cabernet characters. The palate is commensurately light and crisp, with varietal leafy/earthy flavours. Dry finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 KingtreeP 15.50QSProduced from half a hectare of estate plantings. Cold fermented and early bottled.S Sugar-cured tunaX 4182Y 14/7/98a Geographe Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Kingtree Riesling Kingtree Wines $11-15 14/7/98 23/1/98 Kingtree Wines T[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with faint tropical fruit and mineral aromas. The tropical/passionfruit/pineapple fruit comes through strongly on the palate, with mid-palate sweetness particularly evident, balanced by a moderately dry finish. Impressive first-up wine. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with faint tropical fruit and mineral aromas. The tropical/passionfruit/pineapple fruit comes through strongly on the palate, with mid-palate sweetness particularly evident, balanced by a moderately dry finish. Impressive first-up wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 QuelltalerP Carlsfield Vineyard was planted in 1935 on a sweeping hillside of red loam over limestone. The vineyard is situated just to the southeast of the Quelltaler winery at an elevation of 470 metres. The Riesling is the celebration Geisenheim clone.S Eggplant terrineX 4183Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Carlsfield Vineyard Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _'Quelltaler Carlsfield Vineyard Riesling Quelltaler $11-15 14/7/98 23/1/98 Quelltaler [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite rich with lime and tropical fruit aromas, almost into peach. The rich palate is balanced by good acidity and held together by excellent structure; while unashamedly generous, it is not phenolic. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite rich with lime and tropical fruit aromas, almost into peach. The rich palate is balanced by good acidity and held together by excellent structure; while unashamedly generous, it is not phenolic.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 QuelltalerP )The vineyard was planted in 1979 (by Wolf Blass) on a site of clay loam over the classic Polish Hill River slate. It matures several weeks later than the Watervale vineyards, and in classic Polish Hill River style, produces a tight, more restrained wine which has the capacity to age wonderfully. Grilled sardinesX 4184Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Polish Hill River Vineyard Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _.Quelltaler Polish Hill River Vineyard Riesling Quelltaler $11-15 14/7/98 23/1/98 Quelltaler [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet with sweet lime, mineral and hints of honey all intermingling leads into a long and intense palate with toasty/mineral undertones to lime fruit; very well structured, and a died-in-the-wool stayer. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet with sweet lime, mineral and hints of honey all intermingling leads into a long and intense palate with toasty/mineral undertones to lime fruit; very well structured, and a died-in-the-wool stayer.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 QuelltalerP The Prospect Vineyard is situated across the road from the Quelltaler winery on similar red soil over limestone to that of Carlsfield. At a slightly lower elevation, it is the earliest-ripening of the three vineyards.S Fresh asparagusX 4185Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Prospect Vineyard Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _%Quelltaler Prospect Vineyard Riesling Quelltaler $11-15 14/7/98 23/1/98 Quelltaler [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a classically restrained, almost delicate, lime and toast bouquet, and a very pure wine on the palate, intense, yet not the least bit heavy. Herb and fine lime/lemon fruit is followed by a dry, crisp finish. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a classically restrained, almost delicate, lime and toast bouquet, and a very pure wine on the palate, intense, yet not the least bit heavy. Herb and fine lime/lemon fruit is followed by a dry, crisp finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Robinsons FamilyP NAQhIn 1995, at least, distinctly the best of the Robinson reds, well balanced and with good fruit ripeness.S Roast beefX 4186Y 10/7/98a Granite Belt Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _#Robinsons Family Cabernet Sauvignon Robinsons Family Vineyards 10/7/98 23/1/98 Robinsons Family Vineyards [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite sweet overall, partly driven by well-handled vanilla oak, with attractive red berry fruit, with touches of mint and chocolate, coming up on the palate. The tannins are well balanced, the oak subtle. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite sweet overall, partly driven by well-handled vanilla oak, with attractive red berry fruit, with touches of mint and chocolate, coming up on the palate. The tannins are well balanced, the oak subtle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 SalitageP iYet another wine from Pemberton to make its debut after Pinot and Chardonnay, and similarly to suggest it may after all be the Cabernet family to which the region is best suited. Certainly possesses the strength and fruit flavour lacking from some of the other wines. For the record, it is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. VenisonX 4187Y 14/7/98a Pemberton Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Salitage Cabernet Merlot Salitage $26-50 14/7/98 23/1/98 Salitage [4.5wine glasses] Dense red-purple; a rich, dense chocolatey dark berry bouquet leads onto an amazingly rich, ripe and concentrated wine on the palate with abundant tannins running through on the mid to back palate. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 95 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; a rich, dense chocolatey dark berry bouquet leads onto an amazingly rich, ripe and concentrated wine on the palate with abundant tannins running through on the mid to back palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Scarpantoni EstateP 15QwYet another McLaren Vale Shiraz to score high points on my judging sheet in the 1997 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge.S Seared kangaroo filletX 4189Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Block 3 Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _!Scarpantoni Estate Block 3 Shiraz Scarpantoni Estate $11-15 14/7/98 23/1/98 Scarpantoni Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; powerful earthy berry fruit is cradled by vanilla oak on the bouquet, heralding an enormously flavoursome and rich wine on the palate, with a sensual mix of chocolate, red berry and sweet vanilla oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; powerful earthy berry fruit is cradled by vanilla oak on the bouquet, heralding an enormously flavoursome and rich wine on the palate, with a sensual mix of chocolate, red berry and sweet vanilla oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Seppelt Great WesternP 16.95 After a mercifully brief (and quite disastrous) flirtation with the Harpers Range label, the commercial Sparkling Shiraz from Seppelt has regained its primary brand label, for good measure being given the not-so-original Original Sparkling Shiraz label. Brand management carping to one side, this wine streaks the commercial Sparkling Burgundy field, an exceptional bargain at the price. A blend of Padthaway, Barossa and Coonawarra Shiraz, it spent 16 months in large oak before being tiraB,ged, and then spent 18 months on yeast lees. and gameX 4190Y 14/7/98a Grampians Original Sparkling Shiraz X Sparkling Sparkling Red Z Australia _/Seppelt Great Western Original Sparkling Shiraz Seppelt Great Western $16-20 14/7/98 23/1/98 Seppelt Great Western [4.5wine glasses] 1993 Medium to full red-purple; strong earthy varietal fruit, with hints of liquorice are followed by liquorice, earth and berry fruit flavours on the palate. Do not be the least bit hesitant to cellar this wine for a long time. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1993 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; strong earthy varietal fruit, with hints of liquorice are followed by liquorice, earth and berry fruit flavours on the palate. Do not be the least bit hesitant to cellar this wine for a long time.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Seppelt Great WesternP The Partalunga Vineyard in the Adelaide Hills region of South Australia was planted in 1982, but the on-again, off-again marketing of the various Seppelt wines has not done the quality of the fruit (or the resulting wines) any justice at all. At one time the label was headed for extinction, being saved at the last moment by winning a series of important trophies. On the other hand, one cannot quarrel with the decision to only release the wine in exceptional vintages; thus there was not ParB talunga Chardonnay in either 1994 or 1995. For the record, the wine is totally barrel-fermented in a mix of new and used French oak barriques. LobsterX 4192Y 14/7/98a Grampians Partalunga Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _+Seppelt Great Western Partalunga Chardonnay Seppelt Great Western $21-25 14/7/98 23/1/98 Seppelt Great Western 1[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-green; melon, fig and cashew are woven through subtle oak on a bouquet which is deceptively sweet, for the palate is a marvellously understated, elegant style with melon/mineral fruit and subtle oak. A most beautifully balanced and constructed wine. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; melon, fig and cashew are woven through subtle oak on a bouquet which is deceptively sweet, for the palate is a marvellously understated, elegant style with melon/mineral fruit and subtle oak. A most beautifully balanced and constructed wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Seville EstateP Brokenwood did not time its acquisition of a controlling interest in Seville Estate as well it might, running into the problem vintages (unusual vintage rainfall) of 1995 and 1996, a problem which was particularly severe for the late-ripening varieties. This makes the achievement with the 95 Cabernet Sauvignon all the more meritorious, perhaps emphasising once again what a marvellous grape the thick-skinned cabernet sauvignon is in adverse conditions. Rack of vealX 4193Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _!Seville Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Seville Estate $26-50 14/7/98 23/1/98 Seville Estate [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with perfectly ripened red fruit Cabernet aromas, and no herbal green overtones. A most attractive, unforced style on the palate with soft red fruits, subtle oak and fine tannins. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with perfectly ripened red fruit Cabernet aromas, and no herbal green overtones. A most attractive, unforced style on the palate with soft red fruits, subtle oak and fine tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 WestendP 19.95 Very ripe Semillon (typically around 24 baum ) is fermented and matured in new French oak; 1996 was the second vintage of this wine. It was awarded the trophy for the Best Sweet Wine at the Boutique Wines of Australia 1997 Awards. Fruit tartX 4194Y 14/7/98 Golden Mist Botrytis Semillon Sweet Sweet Z Australia _%Westend Golden Mist Botrytis Semillon Westend $16-20 14/7/98 23/1/98 Westend <[4wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-gold; the bouquet is crammed with succulent peach and apricot fruit aromas, with subtle oak. The palate is lusciously sweet and rich, with volatile acidity under tight control; there are flavours of honey and mead which run through the palate into a long finish. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-gold; the bouquet is crammed with succulent peach and apricot fruit aromas, with subtle oak. The palate is lusciously sweet and rich, with volatile acidity under tight control; there are flavours of honey and mead which run through the palate into a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 WestendP 16.95Q Drawn principally from estate plantings which yield 400 tonnes of grapes a year (not only Cabernet Sauvignon). The 1996 vintage won three gold and two silver medals during 1997.S LasagneX 4195Y 14/7/98 M 3 Bridges Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _$Westend 3 Bridges Cabernet Sauvignon Westend $16-20 14/7/98 23/1/98 Westend [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; voluminous American oak relentlessly drives both the bouquet and the palate, with masses of coconut and vanilla surrounding the pronounced mint eucalypt flavours of the palate. A splashy show style. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; voluminous American oak relentlessly drives both the bouquet and the palate, with masses of coconut and vanilla surrounding the pronounced mint eucalypt flavours of the palate. A splashy show style. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Wilderness EstateP The top of the range Chardonnay from Wilderness Estate, fermented and matured in French oak and given partial malolactic fermentation.S ScampiX 4196Y 10/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Wilderness Estate Reserve Chardonnay Wilderness Estate 10/7/98 23/1/98 Wilderness Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, and is rather innocuous, but the wine comes alive on the palate with attractive tight melon fruit, subtle oak and good length. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, and is rather innocuous, but the wine comes alive on the palate with attractive tight melon fruit, subtle oak and good length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 YalumbaP 14.95 LMade in uncompromising Barossa-style from fruit grown by the Hahn, Rozenzweig, Koch, Grossman and Johns families. The inaugural release won a gold medal at the 1997 Barossa Valley Wine Show, underlining how typical (and Teutonic) the style is, although it was also selected in the Top 100 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition. Smoked chickenX 4197Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Barossa Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Yalumba Barossa Semillon Yalumba $11-15 14/7/98 23/1/98 Yalumba [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is powerful and concentrated with lemon-butter aromas which come through on the generously flavoured palate; incipient honey notes augur well for medium-term cellaring. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is powerful and concentrated with lemon-butter aromas which come through on the generously flavoured palate; incipient honey notes augur well for medium-term cellaring.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 YalumbaP 14.95QuProduced from old (70-year) low-yielding bush vines on the Anderson, Burgermeister, Habermann and Waechter families. S Moroccan curryX 4198Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley M Bush Vine Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache Yalumba $11-15 14/7/98 23/1/98 Yalumba [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a full, glossy/juicy berry fruit bouquet runs into a no-holds-barred jammy/berry varietal fruit palate. Does show slightly hot alcohol on the finish (14.5 ) but this is all pretty much in mainstream style. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a full, glossy/juicy berry fruit bouquet runs into a no-holds-barred jammy/berry varietal fruit palate. Does show slightly hot alcohol on the finish (14.5 ) but this is all pretty much in mainstream style. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Grant BurgeP 17.35 Avant-garde packaging might suggest this is not a serious wine, but in fact it is just that, and does not use residual sugar to pander to palates.S SeafoodX 4199Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Virtuoso White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Grant Burge Virtuoso Grant Burge $16-20 14/7/98 24/1/98 Grant Burge [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a light, crisp clean bouquet with attractive, gently herbaceous fruit aromas. The palate precisely tracks the bouquet, with crisp herbaceous minerally fruit, neither phenolic nor sweet. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a light, crisp clean bouquet with attractive, gently herbaceous fruit aromas. The palate precisely tracks the bouquet, with crisp herbaceous minerally fruit, neither phenolic nor sweet.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 HeggiesP The wine upon which the Heggies fame, with its ever so distinctive label, was founded. As with Pewsey Vale, hasn't always lived up to its early reputation, but the 95 (on release at the end of 1997) is a very attractive wine.S Seafood saladX 4200Y 14/7/98a Eden Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Heggies Riesling Heggies Vineyard $16-20 14/7/98 24/1/98 Heggies Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium yellow-green; soft, bottle-developed toast, lime and kerosene aromas foreshadow a wine which combines bottled development with delicately toasty lemony fruit on the quite long palate. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; soft, bottle-developed toast, lime and kerosene aromas foreshadow a wine which combines bottled development with delicately toasty lemony fruit on the quite long palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 JenkeP >The revival in the fortunes of Mourvedre (or Mataro, as it used to be called) continues, with increasing amounts being diverted from fortified to table winemaking. As yet, straight varietal examples are few and far between, but d'Arenberg and Jenke in particular are showing just what can be achieved with the variety. GameX 4201Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley N Mourvedre Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Jenke Mourvedre Jenke Vineyards $11-15 14/7/98 24/1/98 Jenke Vineyards %[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; solid, concentrated ripe berry fruit on the bouquet introduces a rich, full-textured palate with abundant dark berry and dark chocolate fruit surrounded by soft tannins. You can really see the old vine influence at work here. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; solid, concentrated ripe berry fruit on the bouquet introduces a rich, full-textured palate with abundant dark berry and dark chocolate fruit surrounded by soft tannins. You can really see the old vine influence at work here.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 KaeslerP 30Q>One of the specialities of the winery since the 1992 vintage. S Pasta bologneseX 4202Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley M Old Vines Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Kaesler Old Vines Shiraz Kaesler $26-50 14/7/98 24/1/98 Kaesler [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a clean, smooth bouquet of light to medium intensity, with well-balanced fruit and oak. The palate shows pleasant, if slightly simple berry, earth and chocolate fruit flavours. Once again the oak is held in restraint. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean, smooth bouquet of light to medium intensity, with well-balanced fruit and oak. The palate shows pleasant, if slightly simple berry, earth and chocolate fruit flavours. Once again the oak is held in restraint.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Lowe FamilyP 20QmA cleverly named blend of Cabernet Sauvignon grown in Orange and Merlot grown at Broke in the Hunter Valley. S WeisswurstX 4203Y 14/7/98a Mudgee Orange Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Lowe Family Orange Red Lowe Family Wines $16-20 14/7/98 24/1/98 Lowe Family Wines [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; the cool-grown Cabernet component, with minty/leafy aromas seems to dominate the bouquet; the palate has life and freshness, with quite pronounced minty flavours. One would like to see a touch more ripeness to the fruit. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the cool-grown Cabernet component, with minty/leafy aromas seems to dominate the bouquet; the palate has life and freshness, with quite pronounced minty flavours. One would like to see a touch more ripeness to the fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 MaxwellP Maxwell produces two Shiraz-based wines, Ellen Street and (in much smaller volume) the Reserve. On occasions the Reserve has seemed over-extracted and over-oaked, but most certainly not in 1995.S Char-grilled rumpX 4204Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Maxwell Reserve Shiraz Maxwell Wines $26-50 14/7/98 24/1/98 Maxwell Wines O[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; a rich and concentrated bouquet with complex liquorice, briar and black fruit aromas. A sophisticated wine on the palate with excellent black cherry and liquorice varietal fruit supported by subtle but powerful tannins and forceful but convincing use of American oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a rich and concentrated bouquet with complex liquorice, briar and black fruit aromas. A sophisticated wine on the palate with excellent black cherry and liquorice varietal fruit supported by subtle but powerful tannins and forceful but convincing use of American oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 N MonichinoP QuA wine which bobbed up in the 1997 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge and performed very creditably on my score sheet.S Devilled kidneysX 4205Y 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Monichino Shiraz Monichino Wines $11-15 14/7/98 24/1/98 Monichino Wines E[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; solid, sweet American oak provides the first impact, but is supported by sweet earthy varietal fruit on the bouquet. On the palate the fruit swirls, with masses of sweet fruit followed by American oak and tannins. A substantial, chewy, generously proportioned wine. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; solid, sweet American oak provides the first impact, but is supported by sweet earthy varietal fruit on the bouquet. On the palate the fruit swirls, with masses of sweet fruit followed by American oak and tannins. A substantial, chewy, generously proportioned wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Mount AvocaP 20.60 A very well-made wine, with fermentation commenced in stainless steel and transferred at 4 baum to new medium toast oak hogsheads. Fifteen per cent is taken through malolactic fermentation, and the wine kept on lees (with stirring) for just over four months. Corn-fed chickenX 4206Y 14/7/98a Pyrenees Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Mount Avoca Chardonnay Mount Avoca Vineyard $16-20 14/7/98 24/1/98 Mount Avoca Vineyard ?[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, smooth bouquet of light to medium intensity with melon, cashew and subtle oak aromas intermingling. The palate is spotlessly clean, with good length and intensity, well balanced and fresh; creamy melon flavours hold the wine in good stead. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, smooth bouquet of light to medium intensity with melon, cashew and subtle oak aromas intermingling. The palate is spotlessly clean, with good length and intensity, well balanced and fresh; creamy melon flavours hold the wine in good stead.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 BabichP 14QkAn unashamedly commercial wine sourced from Gisborne (predominantly), Hawke s Bay and Martinborough grapes.S PastaX 4207Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area East Coast Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Babich East Coast Chardonnay Babich $11-15 14/7/98 24/1/98 Babich [3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a very light bouquet with mealy/nutty malolactic fermentation influence to the fore. The palate is light, the oak barely perceptible, and the malolactic fermentation characters tending to strip the sweetness out of the fruit and in the end result producing a rather simple, straightforward but perfectly pleasant wine. RATING: 76 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a very light bouquet with mealy/nutty malolactic fermentation influence to the fore. The palate is light, the oak barely perceptible, and the malolactic fermentation characters tending to strip the sweetness out of the fruit and in the end result producing a rather simple, straightforward but perfectly pleasant wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">76 BabichP The wine comes from the Fern Hill subregion of Hawke's Bay, and is barrel-fermented and matured in French oak (25% new) for eight months, being given the usual lees contact and malolactic-fermentation handling.S Avocado saladX 4208Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Mara Estate Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Babich Mara Estate Chardonnay Babich $16-20 14/7/98 24/1/98 Babich 3[4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a clean bouquet of medium intensity with cashew nut malolactic fermentation characters on moderately subdued fruit. The palate has much more style and fruit, with melon, citrus and cashew flavours on a long, ever so slightly edgy, finish. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a clean bouquet of medium intensity with cashew nut malolactic fermentation characters on moderately subdued fruit. The palate has much more style and fruit, with melon, citrus and cashew flavours on a long, ever so slightly edgy, finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 BabichP Generally regarded as one of New Zealand's best Shirazs, and certainly the best priced. The grapes are grown in the famed Gimblett Road region of Hawke's Bay, and (particularly in better vintages) the wine does gain genuine fruit ripeness and flavour.S Venison stew 4209Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Mara Estate Syrah Shiraz New Zealand Babich Mara Estate Syrah Babich $16-20 14/7/98 24/1/98 Babich [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; reasonably sweet and ripe berry and spice fruit on the bouquet is followed by a rather firmer and more astringent palate, but there is unquestioned berry and spice shiraz varietal character, and the oak has been gently played. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; reasonably sweet and ripe berry and spice fruit on the bouquet is followed by a rather firmer and more astringent palate, but there is unquestioned berry and spice shiraz varietal character, and the oak has been gently played.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 BrookfieldsP 16.95 Produced from vines grown on the stony river flats of Ohiti Estate, and typically harvested mid-April. Stainless steel fermented and early bottled.S NAU AntipastoX 4210Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Pinot Gris White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand Brookfields Pinot Gris Brookfields Vineyards $16-20 14/7/98 24/1/98 Brookfields Vineyards [4wine glasses] 1996 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is light, crisp and clean with minerally characters; there is much more mouthfeel than the bouquet promises, with light peach/pear flavours together with echoes of fruit spice. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is light, crisp and clean with minerally characters; there is much more mouthfeel than the bouquet promises, with light peach/pear flavours together with echoes of fruit spice. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 BrookfieldsP Like the Pinot Gris, grown on the gravelly soils of Ohiti Estate. An unusual style for New Zealand, made bone-dry and genuinely suited to food. S Asian cuisineX 4211Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Gewurztraminer White Traminer New Zealand Brookfields Gewurztraminer Brookfields Vineyards $16-20 14/7/98 24/1/98 Brookfields Vineyards [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; there is a mix of spice, lychee and rose petal aromas leading into a bone-dry, lightly spiced palate which will develop fruit fatness with age. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; there is a mix of spice, lychee and rose petal aromas leading into a bone-dry, lightly spiced palate which will develop fruit fatness with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 BrookfieldsP Produced from grapes grown on the Potaka Estate, on silty clay loam soil adjacent to the Ngarurora River. The wine is barrel-fermented in a mix of American and French oak, mostly used, but with a few new American barrels. Approximately one-third is taken through malolactic fermentation. Grilled chickenX 4212Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Brookfields Chardonnay Brookfields Vineyards $16-20 14/7/98 24/1/98 Brookfields Vineyards X[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a clean and smooth bouquet of light to medium intensity with pleasant peach and melon fruit and minimal oak. The well-balanced and composed palate shows more of that peach and melon fruit with a touch of vanilla and spice from the American oak component. A smooth and pleasant wine. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a clean and smooth bouquet of light to medium intensity with pleasant peach and melon fruit and minimal oak. The well-balanced and composed palate shows more of that peach and melon fruit with a touch of vanilla and spice from the American oak component. A smooth and pleasant wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 BrookfieldsP Draws upon 20-year-old vines at Potaka Estate, and is barrel-fermented in 100% new French oak (Allier from Francois Freres) in which it spends eight months with the usual lees contact and stirring. Two-thirds of the wine is taken through malolactic fermentation. Pan-fried vealX 4213Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Brookfields Reserve Chardonnay Brookfields Vineyards $26-50 14/7/98 24/1/98 Brookfields Vineyards m[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; notwithstanding all of the oak used, the influence is subtle on soft, peachy buttery fruit on the bouquet. In the mouth the wine is much richer texturally, long, smooth and round, rich yet not cloying. Peach and melon fruit on the excellent mid-palate are followed by a pleasantly drying finish. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; notwithstanding all of the oak used, the influence is subtle on soft, peachy buttery fruit on the bouquet. In the mouth the wine is much richer texturally, long, smooth and round, rich yet not cloying. Peach and melon fruit on the excellent mid-palate are followed by a pleasantly drying finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 BrookfieldsP Grown on the Ohiti Estate and a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. The wine spends 18 months in oak, 90% of which is new French (Nevers). The wine is neither fined nor filtered.S Wood-fired pizzaX 4214Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _&Brookfields Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Brookfields Vineyards $21-25 14/7/98 24/1/98 Brookfields Vineyards #[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with quite fragrant cedary/earthy/briary aromas. The palate is smooth, of medium intensity, with soft tannins and again those briary/earthy flavours. Neither lush nor particularly fruity. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with quite fragrant cedary/earthy/briary aromas. The palate is smooth, of medium intensity, with soft tannins and again those briary/earthy flavours. Neither lush nor particularly fruity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 BrookfieldsP TProduced from grapes grown on the hillside vineyard of Tukituki, across the road, as it were, from Te Mata. Not produced in lesser years (none made in 93 or 96), with production typically ranging between 300 and 500 cases in the top years. The wine spends 18 months in 95% new Nevers oak. The wine is eggwhite fined but not filtered. Fine New Zealand lambX 4215Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Gold Label Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand _&Brookfields Gold Label Cabernet Merlot Brookfields Vineyards $26-50 14/7/98 24/1/98 Brookfields Vineyards p[5wine glasses] 1995 Spectacular colour; exceptionally rich, almost voluptuous cassis/berry fruit is the driving force in the bouquet, and has swallowed up the new oak. An excellent palate showing a mix of cassis, spice, a hint of plum and a touch of meatiness. Despite all these flavours, the wine has elegance, finishing with well-balanced tannins. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Spectacular colour; exceptionally rich, almost voluptuous cassis/berry fruit is the driving force in the bouquet, and has swallowed up the new oak. An excellent palate showing a mix of cassis, spice, a hint of plum and a touch of meatiness. Despite all these flavours, the wine has elegance, finishing with well-balanced tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 C J PaskP 23.50 As with all the C J Pask wines, estate-grown. The wine was entirely barrel-fermented in Francois Freres French oak, and is given five months lees contact before being racked and cleaned up and returned to barrel for a further five months. Interestingly, and consistently with all of the Pask Chardonnays, does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Runner-up in the Fuller Bodied White Table Wine section at the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition. Blue-lipped mussels in sauceX 4216Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand C J Pask Reserve Chardonnay C J Pask Winery $21-25 14/7/98 24/1/98 C J Pask Winery [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-green; exceptionally sophisticated use of oak is immediately apparent on the complex and powerful bouquet, supported, however, by citrus/melon fruit. That same sophisticated oak use introduces and closes the palate with melon and grapefruit flavours peaking on the mid-palate. Just a fraction more fruit weight and concentration would lift it into the highest category, and if it develops like the 95, may achieve that height anyway. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; exceptionally sophisticated use of oak is immediately apparent on the complex and powerful bouquet, supported, however, by citrus/melon fruit. That same sophisticated oak use introduces and closes the palate with melon and grapefruit flavours peaking on the mid-palate. Just a fraction more fruit weight and concentration would lift it into the highest category, and if it develops like the 95, may achieve that height anyway.<t9h119.9997zB47f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 C J PaskP 0Typically picked in the last week of April, and after a traditional warm fermentation taken immediately to barrel where it spends 22 months in new American oak. Makes a very powerful case for the use of American oak to provide the element of sweetness and softness absent from many New Zealand Cabernets. Saddle of lambX 4217Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _#C J Pask Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon C J Pask Winery $21-25 14/7/98 24/1/98 C J Pask Winery ][4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; there is lots of aroma and spice on the sweet plummy berry bouquet which shows some barrel-ferment characters. The palate has the sweetness and suppleness missing from so many New Zealand Cabernets, yet is not egregiously oaky. Good tannins pick up on the finish; the wine should age well. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; there is lots of aroma and spice on the sweet plummy berry bouquet which shows some barrel-ferment characters. The palate has the sweetness and suppleness missing from so many New Zealand Cabernets, yet is not egregiously oaky. Good tannins pick up on the finish; the wine should age well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 N CairnbraeP As is appropriate, made in diametrically opposed style to the varietal Chardonnay. The Reserve uses the full gamut of barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation and opulent American oak.S Chinese chicken dishesX 4218Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Cairnbrae Reserve Chardonnay Cairnbrae Wines $21-25 14/7/98 24/1/98 Cairnbrae Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; both the bouquet and palate are dominated by assertive charry toasty oak which needs to tone down; the wine has fair length, and may conceivably rise above the oak, meriting higher points. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; both the bouquet and palate are dominated by assertive charry toasty oak which needs to tone down; the wine has fair length, and may conceivably rise above the oak, meriting higher points.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Cellier Le BrunP Cellier Le Brun branched out into table (i.e. non-sparkling) wines in 1995, and made a fairly inauspicious start. However, the follow-on vintage marked a much surer touch.S Salmon terrineX 4220Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Terrace Road Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _,Cellier Le Brun Terrace Road Sauvignon Blanc Cellier Le Brun $16-20 14/7/98 24/1/98 Cellier Le Brun [4wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is firm with a mix of herbal and more floral blossom notes. The palate is clean, firm and still fresh, with a mix of herbal mineral and some sweeter notes tracking those of the bouquet. Well balanced. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is firm with a mix of herbal and more floral blossom notes. The palate is clean, firm and still fresh, with a mix of herbal mineral and some sweeter notes tracking those of the bouquet. Well balanced.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 PlunkettP 12.95Q As Sam Plunkett himself observes, the 1996 vintage was a difficult one for Strathbogie Ranges red wines, but an unusually full-flavoured red came in the face of those vintage conditions.S NAU BratwurstX 4221Y 14/7/98 Central Victorian High Country Blackwood Ridge Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Plunkett Blackwood Ridge Shiraz Plunkett $11-15 14/7/98 27/1/98 Plunkett [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with chocolate and vanilla overtones from American oak. A pleasantly flavoured palate, with chocolate, earth and berry notes to nicely ripened fruit, finishing with soft tannins. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with chocolate and vanilla overtones from American oak. A pleasantly flavoured palate, with chocolate, earth and berry notes to nicely ripened fruit, finishing with soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 GlenaraP One unusual feature of this wine is that it is produced from organically grown grapes, albeit made using conventional techniques. Less unusual is its base of 100% Pinot Noir.S Light Asian dishesX 4223Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir Bottle Fermented X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _#Glenara Pinot Noir Bottle Fermented Glenara Wines $16-20 14/7/98 27/1/98 Glenara Wines [4wine glasses] 1995 Salmon pink; a powerful, if fractionally coarse, bouquet, but a much better, well-structured and balanced palate with strong varietal strawberry/spice flavours, good acidity and length. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Salmon pink; a powerful, if fractionally coarse, bouquet, but a much better, well-structured and balanced palate with strong varietal strawberry/spice flavours, good acidity and length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 NoonP fMade from old bush vine Grenache, packaged in one of those fashionable straight-sided bottles which seem to have more to do with olive oil than wine, and a major, albeit very pleasant, surprise. Described in small print as a vintage port style, it is exactly that or to be more precise, reminiscent of a Portuguese (as opposed to Australian) Vintage Port. CakeX 4224Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Chalice X Fortified Z Australia Noon Chalice Noon Winery $16-20 14/7/98 27/1/98 Noon Winery [4wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; a clean, balanced bouquet with berry and chocolate fruit aromas laced with subtle spirit. The palate is extremely well balanced, with a range of spicy, nutmeg and berry flavours with fine, soft Brandy spirit. The wine is neither aggressive nor too sweet, and is one of those relatively rare Australian Vintage Ports which I could contemplate drinking with enjoyment while it is young. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; a clean, balanced bouquet with berry and chocolate fruit aromas laced with subtle spirit. The palate is extremely well balanced, with a range of spicy, nutmeg and berry flavours with fine, soft Brandy spirit. The wine is neither aggressive nor too sweet, and is one of those relatively rare Australian Vintage Ports which I could contemplate drinking with enjoyment while it is young.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo"B HuiaP 22.50 Q|A pleasant, direct style, but I wonder whether there was either an element of over-cropping or young vine influence at work.S Asian prawnsX 4225Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Gewurztraminer White Traminer New Zealand Huia Gewurztraminer Huia $21-25 14/7/98 28/1/98 Huia [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a fairly light bouquet, with pleasant spicy notes and a touch of lychee is followed by a palate which has a little more fruit, with some lime and spice flavours, but which is fairly light. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a fairly light bouquet, with pleasant spicy notes and a touch of lychee is followed by a palate which has a little more fruit, with some lime and spice flavours, but which is fairly light. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 HuiaP 22.50 Q8Spotlessly clean, well made but relatively light-bodied.S NAU ShellfishX 4226Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Huia Sauvignon Blanc Huia $21-25 14/7/98 28/1/98 Huia Y[4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is light, fresh and spotlessly clean gooseberry and passionfruit aromas in mainstream spectrum. The palate, likewise, is at the dead centre of ripe Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc style, although not especially concentrated or rich, scoring more for its cleanness and freshness. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is light, fresh and spotlessly clean gooseberry and passionfruit aromas in mainstream spectrum. The palate, likewise, is at the dead centre of ripe Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc style, although not especially concentrated or rich, scoring more for its cleanness and freshness.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 MilltonP A full-blown style which, as the name indicates, is barrel-fermented (in French oak). Estate-grown and hand-picked, it is consistently at the rich end of the spectrum.S Pan-fried chicken breastX 4227Y 14/7/98a Gisborne Barrique Fermented Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _%Millton Barrique Fermented Chardonnay Millton Vineyard $26-50 14/7/98 28/1/98 Millton Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1996 Full yellow; a solid bouquet with ripe and smooth peachy/buttery fruit dominant; subtle oak. The palate is similarly rich and fat with masses of peachy flavour, and just a hint of botrytis evident. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full yellow; a solid bouquet with ripe and smooth peachy/buttery fruit dominant; subtle oak. The palate is similarly rich and fat with masses of peachy flavour, and just a hint of botrytis evident. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 MilltonP ZSaid to be a botrytised berry selection, which may or may not mean the individual picking of berries from the vine or by selection on a sorting table in the winery, but it really doesn't matter very much. The end result is an extraordinarily complex and massively botrytis-influenced wine, 80% of which is barrel-fermented for further complexity. Rich dessertsX 4228Y 14/7/98a Gisborne Tete du Cuv e (375 ml) Sweet Sweet New Zealand Millton Tete du Cuv e (375 ml) Millton Vineyard $26-50 14/7/98 28/1/98 Millton Vineyard [5wine glasses] 1994 Golden orange; intense mandarin and cumquat aromas, strongly reminiscent of the great sweet wines of the Loire Valley. A powerful, aristocratic and complex palate, with the lusciousness of the fruit balanced by powerful acidity. Marvellous stuff. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Golden orange; intense mandarin and cumquat aromas, strongly reminiscent of the great sweet wines of the Loire Valley. A powerful, aristocratic and complex palate, with the lusciousness of the fruit balanced by powerful acidity. Marvellous stuff.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Villa MariaP Made its debut in 1996 with grapes harvested from the Seddon Vineyard in Marlborough's Awatere Valley, and received high acclaim. The follow-on vintage is flavoursome, but a touch phenolic for my taste.S Steamed fish Chinese-styleX 4229Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Reserve Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Villa Maria Reserve Riesling Villa Maria $16-20 14/7/98 28/1/98 Villa Maria [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Glowing yellow-green; a big, spicy citrus and lime bouquet is matched by an equally big, strongly flavoured palate. It may be entirely unreasonable, but I would like to see a little more restraint in such a young wine. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; a big, spicy citrus and lime bouquet is matched by an equally big, strongly flavoured palate. It may be entirely unreasonable, but I would like to see a little more restraint in such a young wine. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Villa MariaP yAs the label suggests, made entirely from Marlborough region grapes drawn from Villa Maria's two best vineyards in the region, predominantly hand-picked. The wine is 100% barrel-fermented in a mix of new (60%) and one-year-old (40%) oak. Given eight months lees contact, with partial barrel stirring, and 25% malolactic fermentation. Sophisticated winemaking, to say the least. Coquilles St JacquesX 4230Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _*Villa Maria Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay Villa Maria $21-25 14/7/98 28/1/98 Villa Maria b[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a complex and stylish wine with attractive melon and nectarine fruit woven through spicy nutmeg oak. A similarly stylish and well-balanced palate of medium weight, with the oak obvious, and perhaps just a fraction too much so on the mid to back palate where the fruit lightens off fractionally. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a complex and stylish wine with attractive melon and nectarine fruit woven through spicy nutmeg oak. A similarly stylish and well-balanced palate of medium weight, with the oak obvious, and perhaps just a fraction too much so on the mid to back palate where the fruit lightens off fractionally.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Daniel SchusterP 26.95 (The Petrie Vineyard Selection is drawn from the best blocks on the estate Petrie Vineyard at Rakaia. Hand-harvested grapes are barrel-fermented and lees aged in a mix of new and used Vosges and Troncais barriques for 15 months with a spontaneous malolactic fermentation. Only 250 cases produced. Fresh abaloneX 4231Y 14/7/98a Canterbury Petrie Vineyard Selection Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _4Daniel Schuster Petrie Vineyard Selection Chardonnay Daniel Schuster $26-50 14/7/98 28/1/98 Daniel Schuster [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the gently complex bouquet runs through melon and fig fruit, some subtle cashew barrel ferment/malolactic fermentation aromas, with some more buttery/toasty aromas also present. A wine which grows and grows on you as you taste it, with melon, fig and cashew flavours, more of that subtle barrel-ferment oak, and an exceptional mouthfeel to the long finish. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the gently complex bouquet runs through melon and fig fruit, some subtle cashew barrel ferment/malolactic fermentation aromas, with some more buttery/toasty aromas also present. A wine which grows and grows on you as you taste it, with melon, fig and cashew flavours, more of that subtle barrel-ferment oak, and an exceptional mouthfeel to the long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Forrest EstateP Intensive viticulture (trimming, leaf-plucking and bunch-thinning to limit the yield to 10 tonnes per hectare is followed by 15% barrel fermentation, 30% malolactic fermentation and all of the wine held on yeast lees for six months.S Pan-fried vealX 4232Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _%Forrest Estate Marlborough Chardonnay Forrest Estate $16-20 14/7/98 28/1/98 Forrest Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; there are complex nectarine and spicy fruit characters on the bouquet, moving through nectarine and ripe guava on the powerful palate. An acid bite to the finish provides balance; minimal oak influence throughout. RATING: 87 [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Marlborough. Light to medium yellow-green, not showing excessive development; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity with light melon fruit and a subtle touch of barrel-ferment oak. BsThe palate is not overly complex, but does have fresh citrus and melon fruit, and a pleasant finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; there are complex nectarine and spicy fruit characters on the bouquet, moving through nectarine and ripe guava on the powerful palate. An acid bite to the finish provides balance; minimal oak influence throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Marlborough. Light to medium yellow-green, not showing excessive development; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity with B light melon fruit and a subtle touch of barrel-ferment oak. The palate is not overly complex, but does have fresh citrus and melon fruit, and a pleasant finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Forrest EstateP Semillon as only New Zealand can produce it, with many of the characteristics of Sauvignon Blanc. Over the years has been barrel-fermented, but more recently largely fermented in stainless steel.S OystersX 4233Y 14/7/98 Marlborough Semillon White Semillon New Zealand Forrest Estate Semillon Forrest Estate $11-15 14/7/98 28/1/98 Forrest Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light yellow-green; intensely pungent herbaceous fruit aromas logically introduce a fresh, crisp ultra-herbaceous palate; Sauvignon Blanc without the tropical notes. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; intensely pungent herbaceous fruit aromas logically introduce a fresh, crisp ultra-herbaceous palate; Sauvignon Blanc without the tropical notes. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 GiesenP 30Q}Estate-grown, and given the full winemaking treatment before being held back and given an extra year's bottle age to release.S Veal parmigianaX 4234Y 14/7/98a Canterbury M&Reserve Canterbury Burnham School Road Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _8Giesen Reserve Canterbury Burnham School Road Chardonnay Giesen Estate $26-50 14/7/98 28/1/98 Giesen Estate 5[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Deep yellow; a rich, complex and unexpectedly ripe yellow peach-fruited bouquet is followed by a striking palate, with many flavours and textures. Peach, fig and some more nutty notes, subtle oak and good balancing acid produce a high flavoured but not overblown wine. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Deep yellow; a rich, complex and unexpectedly ripe yellow peach-fruited bouquet is followed by a striking palate, with many flavours and textures. Peach, fig and some more nutty notes, subtle oak and good balancing acid produce a high flavoured but not overblown wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Mount RileyP Made in a classically uncomplicated fashion, night-harvested by machine and cold-fermented in stainless steel at low temperatures for three weeks. Both at juice and wine stage minimal intervention and maximum fruit protection pays handsome dividends. S ClamsX 4235Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc Mount Riley $11-15 14/7/98 28/1/98 Mount Riley 9[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; an intense, classic Marlborough fruit profile, with a mix of capsicum, redcurrant and gooseberry aromas; the palate is similarly fresh and pure, with all of the flavours promised by the bouquet. A wine which has weight, length and good acidity. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; an intense, classic Marlborough fruit profile, with a mix of capsicum, redcurrant and gooseberry aromas; the palate is similarly fresh and pure, with all of the flavours promised by the bouquet. A wine which has weight, length and good acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Mount RileyP Produced from grapes grown on the Old Renwick Road Vineyard, purchased by Mount Riley in 1993. Fermented in stainless steel, and given six months maturation in used French oak; 100% malolactic fermentation.S PastaX 4236Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Mount Riley Chardonnay Mount Riley $11-15 14/7/98 28/1/98 Mount Riley [3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a very light, slightly herbal bouquet is followed by a light, crisp palate which, while lacking intensity and complexity, shows competent winemaking. It is simply that the fruit base isn't really there. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a very light, slightly herbal bouquet is followed by a light, crisp palate which, while lacking intensity and complexity, shows competent winemaking. It is simply that the fruit base isn't really there.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Mount RileyP Produced from Merlot grown in Marlborough and Cabernet Sauvignon grown in Waipara. Open-fermented and hand-plunged, the wine is matured in a mix of American and French oak for 12 months. S Yearling beefX 4237Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand Mount Riley Cabernet Merlot Mount Riley $11-15 14/7/98 28/1/98 Mount Riley Q[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with leafy/earthy aromas and some herbaceous green characters. The palate, however, is much less green than the bouquet suggests, with attractive fresh red berry fruit and a touch of mint before slightly green tannins reappear on the finish. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with leafy/earthy aromas and some herbaceous green characters. The palate, however, is much less green than the bouquet suggests, with attractive fresh red berry fruit and a touch of mint before slightly green tannins reappear on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Omaka SpringsP 14.99 An interesting style, only half given oak treatment, and deliberately early bottled to provide maximum fruit freshness. It is an approach which works well.S Light brasserie foodX 4238Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand Omaka Springs Cabernet Merlot Omaka Springs Estate $11-15 14/7/98 28/1/98 Omaka Springs Estate *[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; a vibrantly fresh and youthful bouquet, with faintly earthy cabernet varietal fruit flows into an attractive palate with a mix of cassis/ribena flavours and more earthy notes. Supple, and while light-bodied and straightforward, not green. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a vibrantly fresh and youthful bouquet, with faintly earthy cabernet varietal fruit flows into an attractive palate with a mix of cassis/ribena flavours and more earthy notes. Supple, and while light-bodied and straightforward, not green.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Clearview EstateP Tim Turvey makes the most spectacular Chardonnays in New Zealand. A mini vertical tasting of the 93 to 96 Chardonnays in September 1997 was overwhelmingly impressive. These are monumental wines, whether one looks at the alcohol consistently exceeding 14 degrees, or the sheer volume and complexity of flavour. For the record, 30% to 50% is given between six and eight hours skin contact, and the rest is whole-bunch pressed. The wine is barrel-fermented in a cool room at 11 degrees for up to six weeks, and around 20% is taken through malolactic fermentation. Only a tiny fraction of the total production makes the Reserve label. SweetbreadsX 4239Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _#Clearview Estate Reserve Chardonnay Clearview Estate $26-50 14/7/98 28/1/98 Clearview Estate }[5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; as one would expect, a complex bouquet showing the sophisticated use of spicy oak and excellent melon and citrus fruit. The palate is still relatively tight for a wine of 14.3 degrees alcohol, with a mix of citrus, grapefruit and nectarine flavours running through an extremely long, beautifully balanced finish. RATING: 97 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; as one would expect, a complex bouquet showing the sophisticated use of spicy oak and excellent melon and citrus fruit. The palate is still relatively tight for a wine of 14.3 degrees alcohol, with a mix of citrus, grapefruit and nectarine flavours running through an extremely long, beautifully balanced finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">97 Clearview EstateP The second label of Clearview, and the only wine made in any significant volume. In 1996, for example, 4 tonnes of grapes went to make the few hundred cases of Reserve, and 25 tonnes were used in Beach Head. Fifty per cent of the wine is barrel-fermented in American oak, 50% in stainless steel. The second pressing of the Reserve wine and all of the other grapes are used in the wine. ClamsX 4240Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Beach Head Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _&Clearview Estate Beach Head Chardonnay Clearview Estate $16-20 14/7/98 28/1/98 Clearview Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fresh, with nicely controlled spicy American oak leading onto an elegant and remarkably long-flavoured palate. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fresh, with nicely controlled spicy American oak leading onto an elegant and remarkably long-flavoured palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Clearview EstateP The top of the range red from Clearview Estate which throws down the gauntlet to the Reserve Chardonnay in terms of absolute quality, and stands at the very head of the New Zealand quality tree. Token amounts of Merlot (4%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) are incorporated. Leg of lambX 4241Y 14/7/98 Hawke s Bay Basket Press Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _&Clearview Estate Basket Press Cabernet Clearview Estate 14/7/98 28/1/98 Clearview Estate &[4.5wine glasses] 1994 Strong purple-red; a spotlessly clean and sweet bouquet with fully ripe cabernet fruit is supported by first-class oak handling. The palate, similarly, has a mix of luscious cassis/berry fruit together with a touch of mint; supple tannins on the finish. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Strong purple-red; a spotlessly clean and sweet bouquet with fully ripe cabernet fruit is supported by first-class oak handling. The palate, similarly, has a mix of luscious cassis/berry fruit together with a touch of mint; supple tannins on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 CollardsP Q[The flag-bearer of the Collards Rieslings, until 1996 known simply as Marlborough Riesling.S SashimiX 4242Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Queen Charlotte Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _!Collards Queen Charlotte Riesling Collards $11-15 14/7/98 28/1/98 Collards 9[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a potent and concentrated bouquet with what may or may not be some botrytis influence, and a powerful palate with lime, lemon and more herbal flavours running through the mid-palate and into a long, lingering finish. Should develop superbly. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a potent and concentrated bouquet with what may or may not be some botrytis influence, and a powerful palate with lime, lemon and more herbal flavours running through the mid-palate and into a long, lingering finish. Should develop superbly. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 CollardsP Typically a blend of Hawke's Bay, Auckland and Marlborough grapes, but in 1996 missing the Marlborough component. Interestingly, there is no price differential between this wine and the Queen Charlotte, and indeed looking at the wine in the glass, why should there be? Seafood saladX 4243Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Collards Riesling Collards $11-15 14/7/98 28/1/98 Collards [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a concentrated bouquet with abundant lime and toast aromas leads onto a smooth but long lime juicy palate, finishing with excellent acidity and perfectly judged residual sugar. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a concentrated bouquet with abundant lime and toast aromas leads onto a smooth but long lime juicy palate, finishing with excellent acidity and perfectly judged residual sugar.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 CollardsP xThe grapes come from Collards Rothesay Vineyard in Waimauku in West Auckland, and challenges the notion that Sauvignon Blanc cannot produce the same intense varietal character so far north as it does conspicuously in Marlborough and Wairarapa, and also (in a fuller mode) Hawke's Bay. Made in a typical no-frills Collards fashion, stainless steel fermented and early bottled. CrabX 4244Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Rothesay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _!Collards Rothesay Sauvignon Blanc Collards $11-15 14/7/98 28/1/98 Collards E[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a spotlessly clean and crisp bouquet of medium intensity with herbal and gooseberry fruit. The tight palate, lively and fresh, with excellent grip and structure, is one of those unusual Sauvignon Blancs which actually give the impression of needing time in bottle. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a spotlessly clean and crisp bouquet of medium intensity with herbal and gooseberry fruit. The tight palate, lively and fresh, with excellent grip and structure, is one of those unusual Sauvignon Blancs which actually give the impression of needing time in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 CollardsP Almost diametrically opposed in style to the Collards Rothesay, positively leaping out of the glass and giving the impression that it will, like so many of its counterparts, be quick-developing. That said and done, an utterly delicious wine of the highest quality. Bluff oystersX 4245Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _$Collards Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Collards $11-15 14/7/98 28/1/98 Collards [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a fragrant, fresh passionfruit-accented bouquet leads into an utterly seductive palate, with an extra dimension of tropical passionfruit flavours cut and restrained by precisely judged acidity on the finish. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a fragrant, fresh passionfruit-accented bouquet leads into an utterly seductive palate, with an extra dimension of tropical passionfruit flavours cut and restrained by precisely judged acidity on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 CollardsP An unusual labelling exercise sees the word Reserve included as part of the grand name in better vintages. It is barrel-fermented, but most is removed from oak and held in stainless steel until bottling. All in all, a very elegant, unforced style.S Stir-fried prawnsX 4246Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Collards Hawke s Bay Chardonnay Collards $16-20 14/7/98 28/1/98 Collards $[4wine glasses] 1996 Reserve. Medium green-yellow; a complex and intriguing bouquet with echoes of Burgundy. The palate, while elegant and restrained has excellent feel and weight, driven primarily by the citrus/melon fruit, but just a touch of oak there in the background. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Reserve. Medium green-yellow; a complex and intriguing bouquet with echoes of Burgundy. The palate, while elegant and restrained has excellent feel and weight, driven primarily by the citrus/melon fruit, but just a touch of oak there in the background.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 CollardsP Justifiably regarded as the best New Zealand Chenin Blanc behind the top James Millton versions. Utterly reliable, year in, year out, and always possessing the flavour and character which so many chenin blancs miss through over cropping.S Pork filletsX 4247Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Hawke's Bay Chenin Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand _!Collards Hawke's Bay Chenin Blanc Collards $11-15 14/7/98 28/1/98 Collards [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Bright green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with soft tropical fruit aromas, leading logically into an attractive, soft tinned peach/pear-flavoured palate; has above average length. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity with soft tropical fruit aromas, leading logically into an attractive, soft tinned peach/pear-flavoured palate; has above average length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Coopers CreekP <A new arrival on the scene, destined to be made only in outstanding vintages. What is more, only 275 cases were made in the initial (1996) vintage, compared to around 2000 for the varietal version. Likewise grown at Jim Scotland's vineyard, the wine has 13.5 degrees alcohol and 13 grams per litre of residual sugar. Strong Asian foodX 4248Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Hawke s Bay Reserve Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _*Coopers Creek Hawke s Bay Reserve Riesling Coopers Creek $16-20 14/7/98 28/1/98 Coopers Creek [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is distinctly Alsatian in its complex aroma, and on the palate shares many of the characteristics of Alsatian Vendage Tardive. An extremely rich and striking wine, with some botrytis influence adding to the impact. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is distinctly Alsatian in its complex aroma, and on the palate shares many of the characteristics of Alsatian Vendage Tardive. An extremely rich and striking wine, with some botrytis influence adding to the impact.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Coopers CreekP This is the engine-room of the Coopers Creek winery, with 10,000 cases made in a no-frills, unwooded style. However, some complexity comes from the two differently sited vineyards providing the grapes.S 97U CrustaceaX 4249Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _)Coopers Creek Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Coopers Creek $11-15 14/7/98 28/1/98 Coopers Creek [4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a delicate, crisp and lively bouquet with a mix of passionfruit and herbal aromas, and a similar mix of flavours on the no less crisp, fresh and delicate palate, lengthened by lively acidity. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a delicate, crisp and lively bouquet with a mix of passionfruit and herbal aromas, and a similar mix of flavours on the no less crisp, fresh and delicate palate, lengthened by lively acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 CorbansP 1997 marked the first Cottage Block Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, making an exceptional auspicious debut. Whole-bunch pressing and partial barrel, partial stainless steel fermentation has produced a brilliant example of oaked Sauvignon Blanc.S Chinese prawnsX 4250Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Cottage Block Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _1Corbans Cottage Block Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Corbans (Marlborough) $16-20 14/7/98 28/1/98 Corbans (Marlborough) D[5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; highly fragrant bouquet with spicy nutmeg barrel ferment aromas evident but not dominant, with strong passionfruit also present. The sophisticated making comes through on the multiflavoured palate with spicy nutmeg oak and lush fruit balanced by acidity. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; highly fragrant bouquet with spicy nutmeg barrel ferment aromas evident but not dominant, with strong passionfruit also present. The sophisticated making comes through on the multiflavoured palate with spicy nutmeg oak and lush fruit balanced by acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Punters CornerP Produced from grapes grown on Punters Corner Victoria and Albert Block (more commonly known as the V & A Block) in the centre of Coonawarra. The wine is cold-settled, and then fermented in 100% new Seguin Moreau American oak hogsheads. S Honey prawnsX 4251Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Punters Corner Chardonnay Punters Corner $11-15 14/7/98 30/1/98 Punters Corner ;[4wine glasses] 1997 Glowing yellow-green; relatively light melon and citrus fruit intermingles with gently toasty vanilla oak on the bouquet. The palate is fresh and lively, driven by melon, nectarine and citrus fruit which has literally gobbled up the oak in which it was fermented and matured. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; relatively light melon and citrus fruit intermingles with gently toasty vanilla oak on the bouquet. The palate is fresh and lively, driven by melon, nectarine and citrus fruit which has literally gobbled up the oak in which it was fermented and matured. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Punters CornerP HSourced from both the Victoria and Albert Block and the Punters Corner Cellardoor Block, and employing sophisticated winemaking techniques. The V & A component is fermented on skins for four days, followed by barrel fermentation in new American oak, while the Cellardoor component is given extended post-fermentation maceration. Mushroom risottoX 4252Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Punters Corner Shiraz Punters Corner $16-20 14/7/98 30/1/98 Punters Corner [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; clean, fresh cherry, spice and mint fruit aromas come through on a palate led by cherry, mint, leaf and spice flavours, finishing with soft vanillin American oak, and even softer tannins. Seductive. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; clean, fresh cherry, spice and mint fruit aromas come through on a palate led by cherry, mint, leaf and spice flavours, finishing with soft vanillin American oak, and even softer tannins. Seductive.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Punters CornerP The sourcing and making of this wine is similar to the Shiraz. Part, coming from the V & A vineyard, is barrel-fermented; most comes from low-yielding old vines on the high-bank red soil on the Cellardoor Block, which is given extended maceration. S Yearling beefX 4253Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _!Punters Corner Cabernet Sauvignon Punters Corner $16-20 14/7/98 30/1/98 Punters Corner [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is spotlessly clean, with gentle red berry and cassis fruit aromas with a nice but gentle touch of oak. The palate has attractive cassis and redcurrant fruit with supple tannins; harmonious oak; adroit winemaking. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is spotlessly clean, with gentle red berry and cassis fruit aromas with a nice but gentle touch of oak. The palate has attractive cassis and redcurrant fruit with supple tannins; harmonious oak; adroit winemaking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Burge FamilyP A similar fruit base to the standard Draycott Shiraz, but given Rolls Royce treatment in new oak. The 96 was runner-up in the Shiraz Class at the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Competition, and perhaps a tad unlucky not to win its class.S Char-grilled rumpX 4255Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Draycott Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _$Burge Family Draycott Reserve Shiraz Burge Family Winemakers $26-50 14/7/98 30/1/98 Burge Family Winemakers [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Dense full red-purple; the bouquet is dark and concentrated, with brooding black fruits and masses of vanilla oak. The palate abounds with rich, black cherry fruit, spice and lashings of charry American oak bound around it. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense full red-purple; the bouquet is dark and concentrated, with brooding black fruits and masses of vanilla oak. The palate abounds with rich, black cherry fruit, spice and lashings of charry American oak bound around it. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 CorioleP Q~A blend of 70% Semillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in stainless steel and early bottled without the intrusion of oak. S St George whitingX 4256Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _ Coriole Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Coriole $11-15 14/7/98 30/1/98 Coriole [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a crisp and correct bouquet with lively herb, lemon and mineral aromas introduces an attractive wine, with good length and weight, finishing with gentle acid. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a crisp and correct bouquet with lively herb, lemon and mineral aromas introduces an attractive wine, with good length and weight, finishing with gentle acid.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 CorioleP Together with Montrose, Coriole has been one of the pioneers in the growing and making of Sangiovese in Australia, with no small input from winemaker Peter Hall. 1996 in fact marks the tenth vintage from Coriole. The wine is open-fermented and spends 12 months in old French and American oak barrels. I have not always been persuaded by earlier vintages, but perhaps it was in part due to my reluctance to accept certain aspects of the Sangiovese varietal character as manifested in Australia. BFCertainly the wine has a fine reputation, and the 96 vintage is good. NAU Osso bucoX 4257Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Sangiovese Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Coriole Sangiovese Coriole $11-15 14/7/98 30/1/98 Coriole [4wine glasses] 1996 Strong, bright red-purple; the bouquet is quite intense, with earthy/black forest varietal fruit, followed by unexpectedly sweet, minty fruit on the early and mid-palate, then showing pronounced tannins on the finish. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong, bright red-purple; the bouquet is quite intense, with earthy/black forest varietal fruit, followed by unexpectedly sweet, minty fruit on the early and mid-palate, then showing pronounced tannins on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 CorioleP Produced from estate plantings on red loam over ironstone and limestone subsoils. While the vines are new in comparison to those used to make Lloyd Reserve, they are in fact old by any normal standards, dating back to the late 1960s. This has always been a distinguished wine. Steak and kidney pieX 4258Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Coriole Shiraz Coriole $16-20 14/7/98 30/1/98 Coriole [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Strong red-purple; the bouquet is rich and full, with dark plum and cherry fruit supported by subtle oak. The equally rich multiflavoured palate has dark cherry, plum and some minty flavours, finishing with positive tannins. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; the bouquet is rich and full, with dark plum and cherry fruit supported by subtle oak. The equally rich multiflavoured palate has dark cherry, plum and some minty flavours, finishing with positive tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Cranswick EstateP Made from grapes produced by John Dal Broi, one of the best-known growers in the Riverina, and fermented and matured in a mix of new French and American oak barrels.S Creamy pastaX 4259Y 14/7/98a Riverina Young Vine Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Cranswick Estate Young Vine Chardonnay Cranswick Estate $16-20 14/7/98 30/1/98 Cranswick Estate &[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Full yellow-green; a rich and complex bouquet with potent oak and attractive peachy/buttery fruit; the palate starts promisingly, rich and buttery, but then oak phenolics grab on the finish and strip away some of that fruit. Less would have been better. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Full yellow-green; a rich and complex bouquet with potent oak and attractive peachy/buttery fruit; the palate starts promisingly, rich and buttery, but then oak phenolics grab on the finish and strip away some of that fruit. Less would have been better.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 N Fox CreekP Produced from roughly equaly quantities of grapes grown respectively at the Coona Vineyard and the new Fox Creek home vineyard. One-third of the wine was barrel-fermented in new American oak for 20 days, the remaining two-thirds fermented in stainless steel. The oak input is very subtle. PastaX 4261Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Fox Creek Verdelho Fox Creek Wines $11-15 14/7/98 1/2/98 Fox Creek Wines :[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with solid tropical peachy fruit and just the vaguest hint of oak. The palate is well balanced, of medium weight with fruit salad flavours and a soft, faintly creamy finish. Much more presence than an equivalently made Chardonnay. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with solid tropical peachy fruit and just the vaguest hint of oak. The palate is well balanced, of medium weight with fruit salad flavours and a soft, faintly creamy finish. Much more presence than an equivalently made Chardonnay.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 N Fox CreekP JSM are the initials of James Stanley Malpas (born 1873) and are cut into the stone lintel above the present-day tasting room, but which was his house after he had graduated from Roseworthy Agricultural College. The wine is a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, 70% of which is matured for 12 months in second-use American oak and 30% for 12 months in second-use French oak. Rib of beefX 4262Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Shiraz Cabernets Shiraz Blends Z Australia Fox Creek JSM Shiraz Cabernets Fox Creek Wines $16-20 14/7/98 1/2/98 Fox Creek Wines [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the intense bouquet is fruit-driven with strong earthy berry and chocolate aromas, the palate similarly rich and sweet with a mix of cassis, chocolate, berry and earth flavours. Subtle oak throughout. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the intense bouquet is fruit-driven with strong earthy berry and chocolate aromas, the palate similarly rich and sweet with a mix of cassis, chocolate, berry and earth flavours. Subtle oak throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 N Fox CreekP An imperious wine, which spent an awesome 52 days on its skins during the fermentation and post-fermentation maceration period, followed by maturation in new French oak for 12 months. The 96 was a gold medal winner at the 1997 Adelaide Wine Show.S Game pieX 4263Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _$Fox Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Fox Creek Wines $26-50 14/7/98 1/2/98 Fox Creek Wines =[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; the bouquet is concentrated and rich, with cassis, berry and chocolate fruit and soft oak. The palate is similarly rich and concentrated, with powerful cassis fruit, some almost chewy chocolate flavours, and strongly structured tannins on a lingering finish. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet is concentrated and rich, with cassis, berry and chocolate fruit and soft oak. The palate is similarly rich and concentrated, with powerful cassis fruit, some almost chewy chocolate flavours, and strongly structured tannins on a lingering finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 HardysP 21.99 In response to Hardys ever-growing wine empire, this top of the range sparkling wine is now sourced almost entirely from the Yarra Valley and Tasmania, and knowing sparkling winemaker Ed Carr's preference for these areas, is likely to remain so in the future. A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a little Pinot Meunier, and which spends almost three years on yeast lees. Some strong winemaker inputs are evident, not the least being the apparent adoption of higher than normal fermentation te BZmperatures with what may be unclarified juice. Whatever be the truth, a challenging style. Hors d'oeuvresX 4265Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Sir James Vintage X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Hardys Sir James Vintage Hardys $21-25 14/7/98 1/2/98 Hardys G[4.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full yellow-green; an extremely complex bouquet with what I can only describe as wet dog French characters. A powerful, intense and challenging wine, with unusual weight, and again some of those solids fermentation characters evident. Two bottles tasted, with identical notes. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; an extremely complex bouquet with what I can only describe as wet dog French characters. A powerful, intense and challenging wine, with unusual weight, and again some of those solids fermentation characters evident. Two bottles tasted, with identical notes.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 CorbansP Vintaged from Pinot Noir and a little Chardonnay grown not in Marlborough (as I had always supposed) but in Hawke's Bay. The 91 and 93 wines have all been outstanding, and the wine has now escaped from the dreadful packaging which did much to hide its light under a bushel. Shellfish, oystersX 2039Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Amadeus X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand Corbans Amadeus Corbans (Hawke's Bay) $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Corbans (Hawke's Bay) [4.5wine glasses] 1993 Medium straw-yellow; there are classic biscuity/toasty/bready Pinot Noir varietal aromas, undercut with some more minerally notes. The palate is very fine, with toasty/biscuity flavours and a long cleansing finish. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1993 <f"Bembo">Medium straw-yellow; there are classic biscuity/toasty/bready Pinot Noir varietal aromas, undercut with some more minerally notes. The palate is very fine, with toasty/biscuity flavours and a long cleansing finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Covell EstateP As with all the Covell Estate wines, made from organically grown, hand-picked fruit which was fermented in new Nevers oak and held on stirred lees for a daunting two years. One-third was taken through malolactic fermentation. An altogether challenging and interesting wine. HummusX 4273Y 14/7/98a Waikato and Bay of Plenty Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Covell Estate Chardonnay Covell Estate $21-25 14/7/98 4/2/98 Covell Estate -[3wine glasses] 1992 Medium to full yellow-green, excellent for age. Very youthful overall, with cashew/mineral characters and some slightly baggy oak. The palate is still ferociously acidic, with the fruit subdued and in fact fairly unlikely to poke its head much above the parapet. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1992 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green, excellent for age. Very youthful overall, with cashew/mineral characters and some slightly baggy oak. The palate is still ferociously acidic, with the fruit subdued and in fact fairly unlikely to poke its head much above the parapet.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Cross RoadsP A pleasant, no-frills style which uses the time honoured approach in New Zealand of the retention of a fair degree of residual sugar, but without losing balance.S Fresh pastaX 4274Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Cross Roads Dry Riesling Cross Roads Winery $11-15 14/7/98 4/2/98 Cross Roads Winery [3wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; the bouquet shows light lemon-tinged pastille fruit aromas; the palate similarly soft and easy with pastille, lime and lemon fruit balanced by threshold sweetness on the finish. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet shows light lemon-tinged pastille fruit aromas; the palate similarly soft and easy with pastille, lime and lemon fruit balanced by threshold sweetness on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 deRedcliffeP Introduced in 1995 to head up the deRedcliffe range. Barrel-fermented in French oak (70% new), with evident malolactic fermentation inputs, and spends eight months on yeast lees. Uses Hawke's Bay grapes.S Chinese fried riceX 4275Y 14/7/98 Dedication Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _!deRedcliffe Dedication Chardonnay De Redcliffe Estates $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 De Redcliffe Estates }[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; there are strong barrel-ferment and malolactic-ferment characters on the bouquet pushing the wine into a cashew nut spectrum. Those same strong cashew malolactic characters run through the palate which has pleasant texture and finish, but which dips somewhat on the mid-palate where sweet fruit is hard to find. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; there are strong barrel-ferment and malolactic-ferment characters on the bouquet pushing the wine into a cashew nut spectrum. Those same strong cashew malolactic characters run through the palate which has pleasant texture and finish, but which dips somewhat on the mid-palate where sweet fruit is hard to find.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Esk ValleyP Typically sourced from two vineyards, one near the Tutaekurai River, the other from the Gimblett Road area. The wine is barrel-fermented in French oak, taken fully through malolactic fermentation, and aged in barriques for ten months.S Chinese pork with cashew nutsX 4276Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Esk Valley Reserve Chardonnay Esk Valley Estate $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 Esk Valley Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a powerful and complex bouquet driven by the barrel ferment and malolactic ferment inputs is followed by a solidly constructed, well-balanced palate with peach and ripe fig fruit; soft finish. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a powerful and complex bouquet driven by the barrel ferment and malolactic ferment inputs is followed by a solidly constructed, well-balanced palate with peach and ripe fig fruit; soft finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Esk ValleyP ^A blend of 40% Merlot, 40% Malbec and 20% Cabernet Franc drawn from a single small terraced vineyard adjacent to the winery. Originally terraced in the 1940s, it was replanted with the Bordeaux varietal mix in 1988. Its spends 21 months in new French barriques. Only 200 cases of this celebrated wine were released, and sold only through cellar door. Char-grilled rumpX 4277Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay The Terraces Cabernet Blends New Zealand Esk Valley The Terraces Esk Valley Estate 14/7/98 4/2/98 Esk Valley Estate [5wine glasses] 1995 Almost impenetrable red-purple; an enormously powerful, dense, introverted bouquet fitting the winemaker's description of 'black and tarry'. The palate provides the concentration, structure and ripe tannins so seldom seen in New Zealand, almost to the point of excess. Black fruit, spice and some cedary oak round off a quite extraordinary and unique wine. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Almost impenetrable red-purple; an enormously powerful, dense, introverted bouquet fitting the winemaker's description of 'black and tarry'. The palate provides the concentration, structure and ripe tannins so seldom seen in New Zealand, almost to the point of excess. Black fruit, spice and some cedary oak round off a quite extraordinary and unique wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Esk ValleyP 13QWA modest, no-frills Sauvignon Blanc, made with discipline and which does not threaten. S NAU ShellfishX 4278Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Black Label Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _&Esk Valley Black Label Sauvignon Blanc Esk Valley Estate $11-15 14/7/98 4/2/98 Esk Valley Estate [3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, distinctly herbal in character. The palate is likewise in the herbal/mineral spectrum, in a dry, restrained style. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, distinctly herbal in character. The palate is likewise in the herbal/mineral spectrum, in a dry, restrained style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 CorbansP Straightforward making and early bottling; while the 96 was disappointing, and roundly criticised, the 97 deserves the Private Bin tag, and was the top wine in Cuisine's annual review Deep-fried calamariX 4279Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Private Bin Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _/Corbans Private Bin Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Corbans (Marlborough) $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Corbans (Marlborough) %[5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the very sophisticated use of a touch of spicy oak works extremely well on both bouquet and palate; the fruit, while not heavy, is perfectly ripened with sweeter passionfruit and gooseberry notes building towards the finish. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the very sophisticated use of a touch of spicy oak works extremely well on both bouquet and palate; the fruit, while not heavy, is perfectly ripened with sweeter passionfruit and gooseberry notes building towards the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Grove MillP A lower-priced version, partially barrel-fermented in French and American oak, and part stainless steel, the wine does not appear to have undergone any malolactic fermentation.S Slow-cooked salmonX 4280Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _!Grove Mill Marlborough Chardonnay Grove Mill $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Grove Mill 7[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; a light, fresh, clean and crisp bouquet with citrus/grapefruit aromas and the oak almost imperceptible is followed by an intensely flavoured palate with melon and grapefruit running through a long, lingering finish. The oak is no more than a whisper. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a light, fresh, clean and crisp bouquet with citrus/grapefruit aromas and the oak almost imperceptible is followed by an intensely flavoured palate with melon and grapefruit running through a long, lingering finish. The oak is no more than a whisper.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Herons FlightP Produced from 100% estate-grown grapes, barrel-fermented in new French oak, taken entirely through malolactic fermentation, and given extensive lees contact during 12 months oak maturation. S Moroccan chickenX 4281Y 14/7/98 Barrique Fermented Matakana Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _4Herons Flight Barrique Fermented Matakana Chardonnay Herons Flight $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 Herons Flight s[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Full yellow; uncompromising barrel ferment/malolactic fermentation characters drive both the bouquet and palate, with an array of aromas and flavours running through toast/butter/cashew and cigar box (even, dare I say, cigar butts). Really needs more fruit to carry all of these winemaker inputs, but undeniably makes a statement. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Full yellow; uncompromising barrel ferment/malolactic fermentation characters drive both the bouquet and palate, with an array of aromas and flavours running through toast/butter/cashew and cigar box (even, dare I say, cigar butts). Really needs more fruit to carry all of these winemaker inputs, but undeniably makes a statement.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Herons FlightP !A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot, separately vinified, and matured for 12 months in French oak barriques, 50% new. A wine which certainly supports the view that 94 can produce top-class red wine. No wine was made in either 1995 or 1996 owing to adverse vintage conditions. Butterly leg of lambX 4282Y 14/7/98 Matakana Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand _0Herons Flight Matakana Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Herons Flight $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 Herons Flight [4.5wine glasses] 1994 Dark red-purple; a most attractive bouquet with ripe fruit and cedar, cigar box and briary aromas all intermingling. A powerful Bordeaux-style palate with cassis and cedar neatly counterpoised, finishing with ripe tannins, a precious commodity. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Dark red-purple; a most attractive bouquet with ripe fruit and cedar, cigar box and briary aromas all intermingling. A powerful Bordeaux-style palate with cassis and cedar neatly counterpoised, finishing with ripe tannins, a precious commodity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Johanneshof CellarsP 16.50Q Fermented bone-dry which, say Edel Everling and Warwick Foley, makes it acceptable for diabetics . It is also a powerful food style for a wider audience.S Nasi GorengX 4283Y 14/7/98a Marlborough rztraminer White Traminer New Zealand _"Johanneshof Cellars Gew rztraminer Johanneshof Cellars $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Johanneshof Cellars [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Full yellow-green; the bouquet is strong and powerful, with intense spicy/rose petal varietal character and leads one to expect a bigger wine on the palate. In fact it is quite light and crisp, and bone-dry on the finish. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Full yellow-green; the bouquet is strong and powerful, with intense spicy/rose petal varietal character and leads one to expect a bigger wine on the palate. In fact it is quite light and crisp, and bone-dry on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Kemblefield EstateP %This wine was made with first crop from Kemblefield's vineyards at Mangatahi. The wine was barrel-fermented in French oak, given five months lees contact, and 70% was taken through malolactic fermentation. The net result is to produce a wine far closer to California than New Zealand in style. Diced chickenX 4284Y 14/7/98 Hawke s Bay Reserve Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _*Kemblefield Estate Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Kemblefield Estate $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Kemblefield Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; complex, rich, full and honeyed, with strong toasty notes. The palate is round and softly textured, with almost peachy/tropical fruit; as far removed from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc as one could imagine. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; complex, rich, full and honeyed, with strong toasty notes. The palate is round and softly textured, with almost peachy/tropical fruit; as far removed from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc as one could imagine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Kemblefield EstateP Produced from the small-berried Mendoza clone of chardonnay grown near the Tutaekuri River. It is 100% barrel-fermented in French oak, 25% new. Seventy five per cent undergoes malolactic fermentation, and is kept on lees for nine months prior to bottling, with fortnightly lees stirring. ed vealX 4285Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Kemblefield Estate Chardonnay Kemblefield Estate $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Kemblefield Estate ![4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, smooth, and of medium intensity, with gentle fruit and well-balanced and integrated oak. A quite elegant palate, well weighted and structured, needing just a touch more fruit concentration for higher points. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, smooth, and of medium intensity, with gentle fruit and well-balanced and integrated oak. A quite elegant palate, well weighted and structured, needing just a touch more fruit concentration for higher points.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Kemblefield EstateP 15QmLike the Chardonnay, produced from grapes grown near the Tutaekuri River; cold-fermented in stainless steel. S Chinese prawnsX 4286Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Gewurztraminer White Traminer New Zealand _!Kemblefield Estate Gewurztraminer Kemblefield Estate $11-15 14/7/98 4/2/98 Kemblefield Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Light yellow-green; there is voluminous spice and lychee varietal character on the bouquet, and plenty of weight and flavour on a rich palate; the touch of residual sugar works well in the wine. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; there is voluminous spice and lychee varietal character on the bouquet, and plenty of weight and flavour on a rich palate; the touch of residual sugar works well in the wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Kumeu RiverP 19.50 A wine made in utterly distinctive style, with a strong European touch to it. Wild, or indigenous yeasts are relied on, and the wine is entirely barrel-fermented and 100% taken through malolactic fermentation. The wine is all about secondary flavour and structure. Strong fish dishesX 4287Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Semillon White Semillon New Zealand Kumeu River Semillon Kumeu River Wines $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Kumeu River Wines $[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium yellow-green; a very complex, European-accented bouquet with downplayed fruit leads into a wine which reminds me of White Bordeaux from the old days (minus the excess sulphur dioxide). A crisp, structured wine and does have mouthfeel. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a very complex, European-accented bouquet with downplayed fruit leads into a wine which reminds me of White Bordeaux from the old days (minus the excess sulphur dioxide). A crisp, structured wine and does have mouthfeel. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Kumeu RiverP A blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Semillon, barrel-fermented, lees-aged and taken through a full malolactic fermentation. S Braised porkX 14/7/98a Auckland Area Sauvignon Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand Kumeu River Sauvignon Semillon Kumeu River Wines $21-25 14/7/98 4/2/98 Kumeu River Wines [4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; an intriguing bouquet with ripe stone fruit, ripe pear and apricot aromas, followed by a wine which is round and supple in the mouth, with the flavours even moving into melon. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; an intriguing bouquet with ripe stone fruit, ripe pear and apricot aromas, followed by a wine which is round and supple in the mouth, with the flavours even moving into melon. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Kumeu RiverP Produced from five different vineyard sites around Kumeu. Whole-bunch pressed direct to barrel, and relies upon indigenous yeasts. Twenty to twenty-five per cent new French oak is used, and the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and lees contact in barrel before being bottled just prior to the following vintage. The Brajkovichs regard the 96 as the best vintage in the past ten years, and it is not hard to see why. TroutX 4289Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Kumeu River Chardonnay Kumeu River Wines $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 Kumeu River Wines [5wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; a sophisticated bouquet with lively melon and grapefruit surrounded by gently spicy oak. An extremely elegant and intense yet almost delicate palate with exceptional balance and a very long finish; great breeding and class. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a sophisticated bouquet with lively melon and grapefruit surrounded by gently spicy oak. An extremely elegant and intense yet almost delicate palate with exceptional balance and a very long finish; great breeding and class.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Kumeu RiverP 32QzA blend of 70% Merlot, 15% Malbec and 15% Cabernet Franc, with new clones of merlot providing the major part of the wine. S NAU Osso bucoX 4290Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Merlot Malbec Cabernet Franc Cabernet Blends New Zealand _(Kumeu River Merlot Malbec Cabernet Franc Kumeu River Wines $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 Kumeu River Wines 7[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Excellent red-purple colour; the bouquet is fragrant with cedary/spicy notes to the red berry and mint fruit. There is much more fruit weight, extract and tannin on the palate than one would expect from the bouquet, all the components (including the tannins) being ripe. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Excellent red-purple colour; the bouquet is fragrant with cedary/spicy notes to the red berry and mint fruit. There is much more fruit weight, extract and tannin on the palate than one would expect from the bouquet, all the components (including the tannins) being ripe.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 N Mud HouseP A]A blend of 87% Sauvignon Blanc and 13% semillon, stainless steel fermented and early bottled. NAU ShellfishX 4291Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Mud House Sauvignon Blanc c Mud House $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Mud House/Le Grys {[5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity, with crisp minerally/herbal fruit. The palate has touches of riper fruit flavours (passionfruit and gooseberry) to give it both length and balance, and provide a pleasing contrast to the bouquet. A wine which flows and grows the more you taste it; beautifully crafted. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity, with crisp minerally/herbal fruit. The palate has touches of riper fruit flavours (passionfruit and gooseberry) to give it both length and balance, and provide a pleasing contrast to the bouquet. A wine which flows and grows the more you taste it; beautifully crafted.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 LincolnP What I take to be a new flagship wine for Lincoln, which appeared in several competitions and blind tastings at the end of 1997. A very heavily worked style which seems a bit overdone to me.S Sweet and sour porkX 4293Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area President s Selection Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _(Lincoln President s Selection Chardonnay Lincoln Vineyards $21-25 14/7/98 4/2/98 Lincoln Vineyards U[3wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; there is an array of biscuity, nutty and canned fruit aromas followed by a strongly flavoured palate with lots of spicy oak and similar canned fruit flavours. One suspects over-enthusiastic use of skin contact, and possibly some botrytis. The net result is a fairly phenolic style. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; there is an array of biscuity, nutty and canned fruit aromas followed by a strongly flavoured palate with lots of spicy oak and similar canned fruit flavours. One suspects over-enthusiastic use of skin contact, and possibly some botrytis. The net result is a fairly phenolic style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Matua ValleyP As with all the Shingle Peak wines, produced from nine hectares, and first made in 1995. Partial barrel fermentation and some lees contact, both sensitively used, add texture and interest, without submerging the fairly elusive and hard-to-describe varietal fruit of Pinot Gris. Clams or pippiesX 4294Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Shingle Peak Pinot Gris White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand _$Matua Valley Shingle Peak Pinot Gris Matua Valley $11-15 14/7/98 4/2/98 Matua Valley [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet has good fruit weight and density, with that spicy lemony minerally mix of the grape. There is lots of flavour on the palate, which has weight, richness and real character. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet has good fruit weight and density, with that spicy lemony minerally mix of the grape. There is lots of flavour on the palate, which has weight, richness and real character.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Matua ValleyP Gewurztraminer seems to do well wherever it is grown in New Zealand, combining flavour with delicacy when well handled as this wine is. S Ginger prawnsX 4295Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Hawke s Bay Gewurztraminer White Traminer New Zealand _'Matua Valley Hawke s Bay Gewurztraminer Matua Valley $11-15 14/7/98 4/2/98 Matua Valley [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; there are strong spicy lychee and peach aromas on the bouquet, and plenty more of that peach and lychee fruit on the palate which avoids the phenolic trap. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there are strong spicy lychee and peach aromas on the bouquet, and plenty more of that peach and lychee fruit on the palate which avoids the phenolic trap. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Matua ValleyP 16QlSourced from a number of growers in Hawke's Bay, simply cold-fermented in stainless steel and early bottled.S Vegetable terrineX 4296Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _(Matua Valley Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc Matua Valley $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Matua Valley :[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; there is ripe and generous gooseberry fruit on the bouquet which is of medium to full intensity. A nicely weighted and styled wine on the palate, again with predominant gooseberry flavours (and no passionfruit) and a touch of grip to the finish. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there is ripe and generous gooseberry fruit on the bouquet which is of medium to full intensity. A nicely weighted and styled wine on the palate, again with predominant gooseberry flavours (and no passionfruit) and a touch of grip to the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 McDonaldP Drawn from the full range of Montana's Hawke s Bay vineyards, part hand-harvested and whole-bunch pressed, part machine-harvested, crushed and given short skin contact. Fermented in a mix of new and used French and American oak barrels in the McDonald cool room, with partial malolactic fermentation and prolonged lees contact. Typically given seven months in oak, always producing a rich and complex wine. Creamy fettuccineX 4297Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Church Road Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand McDonald Church Road Chardonnay McDonald Winery $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 McDonald Winery K[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; there is abundant ripe fig and peach fruit with quite obvious barrel-fermentation characters in a solid bouquet. There is a hint of spice, possibly from the American oak, on top of rich, ripe peach and fig fruit on the palate; the malolactic influence is nicely muted. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; there is abundant ripe fig and peach fruit with quite obvious barrel-fermentation characters in a solid bouquet. There is a hint of spice, possibly from the American oak, on top of rich, ripe peach and fig fruit on the palate; the malolactic influence is nicely muted. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 McDonaldP 8A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, first made in 1994 with two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and one-third Merlot, but with the Cabernet component moving to 83% in 1995. The Esk Valley and Montana's Phoenix Estate are the fruit sources, and the wine spends 14 months in predominantly new French oak barriques. 95U Rare beefX 4298Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Church Road Reserve Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand _,McDonald Church Road Reserve Cabernet Merlot McDonald Winery $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 McDonald Winery [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with some quite sweet notes, together with hints of chocolate and earth. An elegant wine on the palate, but there is not as much mid-palate fruit as the bouquet promises, and the tannins do threaten the balance. For my palate, the 94 has better balance, with attractive cedary/chocolatey fruit. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with some quite sweet notes, together with hints of chocolate and earth. An elegant wine on the palate, but there is not as much mid-palate fruit as the bouquet promises, and the tannins do threaten the balance. For my palate, the 94 has better balance, with attractive cedary/chocolatey fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 McDonaldP Sometimes made with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon (6% in 1995, for example) and sourced from Montana's Fernhill Estate vineyard with a lesser but significant amount coming from the Esk Valley. After 12-14 days post-fermentation maceration the wine is run to new French medium-toast barriques where it spends 14 months, with regular aerobic rackings. It poses the question whether merlot is the grape for Hawke's Bay, but does not answer it. Braised oxtailX 4299Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Church Road Reserve Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand _#McDonald Church Road Reserve Merlot McDonald Winery $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 McDonald Winery [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium purple-red; the light to medium intensity bouquet shows earthy/berry fruit together with a hint of spicy oak, with rather more sweet berry, plum and cherry fruit coming through on the palate. A good wine, for sure, but not earthshaking. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the light to medium intensity bouquet shows earthy/berry fruit together with a hint of spicy oak, with rather more sweet berry, plum and cherry fruit coming through on the palate. A good wine, for sure, but not earthshaking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 McDonaldP A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (typically 85%) and Merlot (typically 15%) which is given extended post-fermentation maceration and then taken to French oak (one-third new) for 12 months. Frequent rackings are used to soften the tannins.S Char-grilled rib of vealX 4300Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Church Road Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand _$McDonald Church Road Cabernet Merlot McDonald Winery $21-25 14/7/98 4/2/98 McDonald Winery [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, initially showing briary, earth and mint aromas, but with some red berry characters unfolding. The palate has quite good structure, with chocolatey/briary fruit, but the tannins do rasp a little on the finish. At the end of the day, it s not so much the tannin level that is the problem; there simply isn't that extra bit of sweet fruit on the mid-palate to carry those tannins. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, initially showing briary, earth and mint aromas, but with some red berry characters unfolding. The palate has quite good structure, with chocolatey/briary fruit, but the tannins do rasp a little on the finish. At the end of the day, it s not so much the tannin level that is the problem; there simply isn't that extra bit of sweet fruit on the mid-palate to carry those tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCB#n"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Mills ReefP qThe flagship Chardonnay for Mills Reef (ranking above the Reserve), produced from grapes from Mere Road in Hawke's Bay. One hundred per cent barrel-fermented in new French oak, and 100% malolactic fermentation, followed by the usual lees contact and almost a full year in barrel. Despite this no-holds-barred treatment, an elegant style which should age extremely well. TurkeyX 4301Y 14/7/98 Waikato and Bay of Plenty Elspeth Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Mills Reef Elspeth Chardonnay Mills Reef Winery $21-25 14/7/98 4/2/98 Mills Reef Winery _[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean with a nice mix of biscuity/minerally secondary fruit flavours and faintly spicy oak. Tangy melon and citrus fruit comes through on the palate, which has considerable length, and which is neither overblown by the malolactic fermentation nor shrouded with oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean with a nice mix of biscuity/minerally secondary fruit flavours and faintly spicy oak. Tangy melon and citrus fruit comes through on the palate, which has considerable length, and which is neither overblown by the malolactic fermentation nor shrouded with oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Mills ReefP Like the flag-bearer Elspeth, given the full treatment of barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation, and is placed in the middle of the Mills Reef Chardonnay hierarchy. S Sweet and sour porkX 4302Y 14/7/98a Waikato and Bay of Plenty Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Mills Reef Reserve Chardonnay Mills Reef Winery $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Mills Reef Winery [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with quite complex barrel-ferment and malolactic fermentation inputs over moderate fruit. The palate shows some sweet and sour characters, with fractionally sweet/mawkish fruit on the mid-palate (mixed with some spicy oak) followed by reasonably pronounced acidity on the finish. May come together with time. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with quite complex barrel-ferment and malolactic fermentation inputs over moderate fruit. The palate shows some sweet and sour characters, with fractionally sweet/mawkish fruit on the mid-palate (mixed with some spicy oak) followed by reasonably pronounced acidity on the finish. May come together with time.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Matua ValleyP Part tank-fermented, part barrel-fermented and then held in oak (some new, but predominantly used) for eight months. It is a fruit-driven style, with the oak barely evident at the end of the day.S Cold meatsX 4303Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Shingle Peak Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _0Matua Valley Shingle Peak Marlborough Chardonnay Matua Valley $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Matua Valley [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a spotlessly clean, fresh and crisp bouquet with melon/citrus fruit and a similarly direct, fresh and light palate, almost veering to Riesling in style. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a spotlessly clean, fresh and crisp bouquet with melon/citrus fruit and a similarly direct, fresh and light palate, almost veering to Riesling in style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 MilltonP As with all of the Millton wines, estate-grown according to strict organic standards. The composition of the finished wine reads like a German Riesling: 10% alcohol, 8.6 grams per litre of acid (natural) and 18.3 grams per litre residual sugar. Just as James Millton endeavours to allow nature to run its course in the vineyard, so he also takes a non-interventionist role in the winery. In fact, the result is a beautifully balanced wine. Shellfish in creamy sauceX 4304Y 14/7/98a Gisborne Riesling Opou Vineyard White Riesling New Zealand Millton Riesling Opou Vineyard Millton Vineyard $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Millton Vineyard $[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium green-yellow; a quite firm bouquet with lime, passionfruit and some more toasty characters, the palate is smooth, soft, and with the acid and residual sugar in perfect balance. Gently honeyed, lime and peach fruit flavours linger on the finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium green-yellow; a quite firm bouquet with lime, passionfruit and some more toasty characters, the palate is smooth, soft, and with the acid and residual sugar in perfect balance. Gently honeyed, lime and peach fruit flavours linger on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MissionP Mission Vineyards was one of the first producers in New Zealand to market a Pinot Gris. One is left to wonder whether Hawke's Bay is the best area for this variety, or whether it needs an even cooler climate. At the price, however, it is hard to complain.S 4305Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Pinot Gris White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand Mission Pinot Gris Mission Estate Winery e under $10 14/7/98 4/2/98 Mission Estate Winery [3wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full yellow, with just a hint of straw-pink. The bouquet is soft, with faintly nutty/spicy fruit aromas, and a pleasant but unremarkable palate, fleshed out by just a touch of sweetness on the finish. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow, with just a hint of straw-pink. The bouquet is soft, with faintly nutty/spicy fruit aromas, and a pleasant but unremarkable palate, fleshed out by just a touch of sweetness on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 MissionP nA most unusual name for a blend of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, the Cabernet Franc coming from a vineyard in Ohiti Road and the Cabernet Sauvignon from a low-yielding vineyard at Moteo. The wine was fermented in an open fermenter with hand-plunging, and given extended post-fermentation maceration before spending 18 months in French oak barriques. Rump steakX 4306Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Jewelstone Franc Cabernet Cabernet Blends New Zealand _!Mission Jewelstone Franc Cabernet Mission Estate Winery $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 Mission Estate Winery [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is full and complex, with ripe earthy berry fruit and subtle oak. There is substantial extract evident on the palate, with earthy berry flavours and quite persistent tannins. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is full and complex, with ripe earthy berry fruit and subtle oak. There is substantial extract evident on the palate, with earthy berry flavours and quite persistent tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MontanaP First made in 1996; the name may be more of a mouthful than the wine, but the idea was (and is) to produce a richer, riper style (with higher alcohol) than the cheaper varietal stablemate. As the long name implies, achieved by careful vineyard block selection of the best parcels of fruit. Given the enormous resources available to Montana, and the ever-increasing competition which has long since knocked its varietal wine from the top of the tree, a sensible move. The 97 was the runner up iB^n the Best Lighter Bodied Dry White section of the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition. NAU AsparagusX 4307Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area M&Marlborough Reserve Vineyard Selection Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _>Montana Marlborough Reserve Vineyard Selection Sauvignon Blanc Montana Wines $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Montana Wines 0[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, crisp and fresh bouquet with classic asparagus, capsicum and gooseberry aromas of medium to full intensity. The palate is spotlessly clean and direct in its impact with a mix of minerally, toasty and riper fruit characters. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a clean, crisp and fresh bouquet with classic asparagus, capsicum and gooseberry aromas of medium to full intensity. The palate is spotlessly clean and direct in its impact with a mix of minerally, toasty and riper fruit characters. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MontanaP The 1996 vintage of this wine caused enormous excitement in New Zealand when it was announced that it had received one of the major trophies as one of the three white wines of the year at the 1997 International Wine Challenge in London. Overnight, it became unprocurable, but I did share a bottle in New Zealand with its makers within a day of the official announcement of the trophy, and have since tasted it in Australia. I stand by my tasting note; others, most obviously, profoundly disagreB9e. 1996, incidentally, was the debut vintage of the wine. PastaX 4308Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Marlborough Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _&Montana Marlborough Reserve Chardonnay Montana Wines $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Montana Wines [3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium green-yellow; both the bouquet and palate are dominated by coarse, rather resinous/chippy oak, which is not integrated and not balanced. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; both the bouquet and palate are dominated by coarse, rather resinous/chippy oak, which is not integrated and not balanced. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 MontanaP 16.95 5As will be perfectly evident, I have problems with the oak handling in several of the Montana Chardonnays (including Ormond Estate, for the record) but have no such problem with this wine. A modestly priced wine which showed particularly well in a number of tastings in Australia and New Zealand late in 1997. NAU$Herb and fetta cheese in filo pastryX 4309Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Saints Gisborne Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _"Montana Saints Gisborne Chardonnay Montana Wines $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Montana Wines %[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, smooth and not particularly complex, but with nicely balanced melon and cashew fruit and oak. The palate has good attack and length, with nice citrus melon fruit, and length to the finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, smooth and not particularly complex, but with nicely balanced melon and cashew fruit and oak. The palate has good attack and length, with nice citrus melon fruit, and length to the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Morton EstateP The style of this wine has oscillated wildly over the years, as has the quality. However, a core of ripe fruit (from Morton's River View Vineyard) and richness is a common thread.S Braised neck of porkX 4310Y 14/7/98a Waikato and Bay of Plenty White Label Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _0Morton Estate White Label Hawke s Bay Chardonnay Morton Estate $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Morton Estate [4wine glasses] 1998 Medium yellow-green; a rich and complex bouquet with ripe citrus and melon fruit and sweet oak leads into a richly flavoured palate with abundant white peach fruit, almost to the point of sweet canned fruit, and subtle oak on the close. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1998 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a rich and complex bouquet with ripe citrus and melon fruit and sweet oak leads into a richly flavoured palate with abundant white peach fruit, almost to the point of sweet canned fruit, and subtle oak on the close.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Morton EstateP 1996 was the debut vintage, produced from grapes grown on Morton Estate's Stone Creek Vineyard; barrel-fermented in French oak and matured (with the usual stirring) on lees for eight months. A highly stylised wine with lots of winemaker thumbprints on it.S Pasta carbonaraX 4311Y 14/7/98a Waikato and Bay of Plenty White Label Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _0Morton Estate White Label Marlborough Chardonnay Morton Estate $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Morton Estate 2[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows lots of cashew characters and charry French oak; on the palate the barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation run through a creamy cashew-flavoured wine. I would just like to see a bit more chardonnay fruit left. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows lots of cashew characters and charry French oak; on the palate the barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation run through a creamy cashew-flavoured wine. I would just like to see a bit more chardonnay fruit left.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 NautilusP 24QnAs the name suggests, a vineyard selection of the very best fruit available, and given top-end oak treatment. S Fresh salmonX 4312Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Nautilus Reserve Chardonnay Nautilus Wines $21-25 14/7/98 4/2/98 Nautilus Wines [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; sophisticated spicy oak is woven through melon and white peach fruit on both bouquet and palate. There is lots of flavour and intensity here, with crisp acidity giving the promise of reasonable longevity. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; sophisticated spicy oak is woven through melon and white peach fruit on both bouquet and palate. There is lots of flavour and intensity here, with crisp acidity giving the promise of reasonable longevity. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 N NgatarawaP -Estate-grown, hand-picked grapes are barrel-fermented in 100% new French oak, with extended time on yeast lees. Eighty per cent of the wine is taken through malolactic fermentation. The aim of Alwyn Corban is to take the wine into secondary flavours and textures, and he succeeds admirably in his aim. Smoked salmonX 4313Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Glazebrook Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Ngatarawa Glazebrook Chardonnay Ngatarawa Wines $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 Ngatarawa Wines 7[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a typically complex, rich and toasty bouquet with hazelnut and cashew aromas, the palate likewise predominantly running through the nutty/cashew/creamy/toasty spectrum. Strongly styled and well balanced, though not effusive in terms of varietal fruit. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a typically complex, rich and toasty bouquet with hazelnut and cashew aromas, the palate likewise predominantly running through the nutty/cashew/creamy/toasty spectrum. Strongly styled and well balanced, though not effusive in terms of varietal fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 N NgatarawaP For a relatively small producer, it is significant that Ngatarawa now has three levels of Chardonnay, with Stables in the middle, and Classic bringing up the rear. Partially barrel-fermented (20% new oak) predominantly taken through malolactic fermentation, and partly wood-matured. Pan-fried vealX 4314Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Stables Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Ngatarawa Stables Chardonnay Ngatarawa Wines $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Ngatarawa Wines [3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is tangy with an intriguing mix of melon, mead, herb and cashew, the palate complex, but slightly hard-edged throughout. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is tangy with an intriguing mix of melon, mead, herb and cashew, the palate complex, but slightly hard-edged throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 N NgatarawaP Not made every year, but when it is made and when conditions are right, scales the ultimate heights. The grapes are allowed to hang on the vines for long after normal harvest, with a mix of botrytis and raisining lifting the sugar levels over 40 degrees brix. Unusually, the wine is barrel-fermented and held in oak for 18 months, yet shows no sign either of oak or oxidation. Some of the great German botrytis wines are made this way, but relatively few in the New World. Dappled sunlightX 4315Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Alwyn Noble Harvest Sweet Sweet New Zealand Ngatarawa Alwyn Noble Harvest Ngatarawa Wines $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 Ngatarawa Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-green; the intensely perfumed bouquet has aromas of cumquat, peach, lime and honey, the palate offering some orange and lime peel flavours as well. Balanced acidity in a classy wine. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; the intensely perfumed bouquet has aromas of cumquat, peach, lime and honey, the palate offering some orange and lime peel flavours as well. Balanced acidity in a classy wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 NobiloP The grapes come from a single vineyard in the Awatere Valley in Marlborough. 1996 was not only the first vintage of this flagship wine, but amazingly was the first crop from the vineyard. The wine was whole-bunch pressed and then fermented in a mix of French and German oak, thereafter spending nine months on gross lees in barrel. Forty per cent of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation. How such a seemingly heavy-handed approach could produce such a wine as this, particularly from BSa first crop, is beyond my comprehension, but no one could quibble with the result. Japanese seafoodX 4316Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _$Nobilo Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Nobilo $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Nobilo [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with the barrel ferment and malolactic ferment components quite evident, yet miraculously restrained and subtle. The palate has marvellous flavour, complexity and structure, with passionfruit and spice running through a long and never heavy finish. Perhaps the relatively high acidity (over 9 grams per litre) is part of the secret. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with the barrel ferment and malolactic ferment components quite evident, yet miraculously restrained and subtle. The palate has marvellous flavour, complexity and structure, with passionfruit and spice running through a long and never heavy finish. Perhaps the relatively high acidity (over 9 grams per litre) is part of the secret.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 NobiloP Composed of equal portions of Gisborne and Marlborough Chardonnay, all Mendoza clone. Both portions utilised indigenous yeast; the Marlborough Chardonnay was pressed straight into new French oak, while the Gisborne portion was given brief skin contact before being fermented in new American oak. All of the wine went through malolactic fermentation, and was given prolonged lees contact for nine months. As with the Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, what can only be described as a spectacular resB Coloubiac of salmonX 4317Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Grand Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Nobilo Grand Reserve Chardonnay Nobilo $26-50 14/7/98 4/2/98 Nobilo [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; not surprisingly, spicy barrel-ferment oak characters are immediately obvious on the bouquet, but there is excellent melon, grapefruit and fig fruit there too. On the palate, a modern, fresh and lively wine showing the ultra-sophisticated use of oak, with its spicy nutmeg overtones, yet allowing the white peach, melon and cashew-accented fruit to shine through. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; not surprisingly, spicy barrel-ferment oak characters are immediately obvious on the bouquet, but there is excellent melon, grapefruit and fig fruit there too. On the palate, a modern, fresh and lively wine showing the ultra-sophisticated use of oak, with its spicy nutmeg overtones, yet allowing the white peach, melon and cashew-accented fruit to shine through.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 NobiloP Not, as one might expect, the ultimate Chardonnay statement from Nobilo, but positioned well under the Grand Reserve. Like the Grand Reserve, a blend of Marlborough and Gisborne fruit; the major part was barrel-fermented, part steel-fermented and 70% underwent malolactic fermentation. Chicken yakitoriX 4318Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Nobilo Icon Chardonnay Nobilo $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Nobilo 2[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with the barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation inputs obvious but not killing the fruit. On the palate, strong winemaker thumbprints appear all over a highly structured wine, which is almost Californian in style. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with the barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation inputs obvious but not killing the fruit. On the palate, strong winemaker thumbprints appear all over a highly structured wine, which is almost Californian in style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Daniel SchusterP 19.95Q Estate-grown on the Petrie Vineyard in Rakaia, South Canterbury. The wine was barrel-fermented and lees-aged in used French Troncais barriques until bottling in May 1997.S Grilled spatchcockX 4319Y 14/7/98a Canterbury Canterbury Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _%Daniel Schuster Canterbury Chardonnay Daniel Schuster $16-20 14/7/98 4/2/98 Daniel Schuster 7[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a soft, complex, buttery bouquet running into cigar box overtones. The palate commences with soft, toasty cigar box and cashew flavours, but then finishes with a strange aftertaste of honeycomb. One suspects all sorts of forces at work here. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a soft, complex, buttery bouquet running into cigar box overtones. The palate commences with soft, toasty cigar box and cashew flavours, but then finishes with a strange aftertaste of honeycomb. One suspects all sorts of forces at work here.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Rippon VineyardP Produced from estate-grown grapes, with Clones 5 and 6. Barrel-fermented in a mix of 80% new and 20% used medium toast French oak barriques; full malolactic fermentation, full lees stirring, maturation in oak for eight months prior to bottling.S Smoked troutX 4320Y 14/7/98a Otago Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Rippon Vineyard Chardonnay Rippon Vineyard $21-25 14/7/98 5/2/98 Rippon Vineyard -[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and fresh, with light melon and citrus fruit supported by subtle oak. The palate is fruit-driven, with citrus and melon flavours running through what is a long and intense wine. Excellent mouthfeel, and restrained oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and fresh, with light melon and citrus fruit supported by subtle oak. The palate is fruit-driven, with citrus and melon flavours running through what is a long and intense wine. Excellent mouthfeel, and restrained oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 N RiversideP Hand-harvested Hawke's Bay grapes are 100% barrel-fermented in a mix of one and two-year-old French oak barriques, followed by nine months ageing on yeast lees. Part of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation.S Salmon terrineX 4321Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _(Riverside Reserve Hawke s Bay Chardonnay Riverside Wines $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Riverside Wines g[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows complex barrel ferment/malolactic ferment cashew characters, yet is relatively smooth. There are winemaking thumbprints crawling all over the cashew and cream palate, yet they do not subdue some intense fruit which slowly grows on you as you retaste the wine. Good feel and finish. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows complex barrel ferment/malolactic ferment cashew characters, yet is relatively smooth. There are winemaking thumbprints crawling all over the cashew and cream palate, yet they do not subdue some intense fruit which slowly grows on you as you retaste the wine. Good feel and finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 N RiversideP 16QvA blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, matured for 12 months in a mix of French and American oak barriques.S Light green curry dishesX 4322Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand Riverside Cabernet Merlot Riverside Wines $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Riverside Wines [3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium red; a light, crisp slippery tamarillo-accented bouquet is followed by more of the same on the slightly vegetal, tamarillo-flavoured palate. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red; a light, crisp slippery tamarillo-accented bouquet is followed by more of the same on the slightly vegetal, tamarillo-flavoured palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 RongopaiP 20QIProduced from Te Kauwhata grapes, and aged for six months in French oak. S SaltimboccaX 4323Y 14/7/98a Waikato and Bay of Plenty Oak Aged Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _!Rongopai Oak Aged Sauvignon Blanc Rongopai Wines $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Rongopai Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow; a solid and rich bouquet with strong toasty oak characters is followed by a powerful, richly structured palate. Really needs food, for the phenolics quickly catch up with you. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow; a solid and rich bouquet with strong toasty oak characters is followed by a powerful, richly structured palate. Really needs food, for the phenolics quickly catch up with you.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 RongopaiP 31.95Q The grapes used to produce this wine are not specified, but we do know it was chiefly grown in Gisborne by D Dodds. Just for the record, it has 125 grams per litre of residual sugar and 10.5 grams per litre of acid.S Caramelised fruit tartX 4324Y 14/7/98a Waikato and Bay of Plenty Botrytis Reserve Sweet Sweet New Zealand Rongopai Botrytis Reserve Rongopai Wines $26-50 14/7/98 5/2/98 Rongopai Wines g[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Golden orange in colour, and pours viscously. A super-rich, intense, raisined cumquat and mandarin bouquet is followed by an equally intense apricot-flavoured bouquet balanced by cleansing acidity. Somewhere along the way, it does lighten off slightly, and I cannot make up my mind whether this is a good thing or not. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Golden orange in colour, and pours viscously. A super-rich, intense, raisined cumquat and mandarin bouquet is followed by an equally intense apricot-flavoured bouquet balanced by cleansing acidity. Somewhere along the way, it does lighten off slightly, and I cannot make up my mind whether this is a good thing or not.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Sacred HillP The inaugural vintage of this wine, which is in fact a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Malbec. The wine was given post-fermentation maceration for 21 days, and spent 15 months in new French barriques. A very well-made wine.S VenisonX 4325Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Brokenstone Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand Sacred Hill Brokenstone Merlot Sacred Hill $26-50 14/7/98 5/2/98 Sacred Hill [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium purple-red; positive sweet berry and cherry fruit notes and the scent of violets introduce a silky sweet wine on the palate with excellent fruit and structure; the long finish is only gently pushed by French oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; positive sweet berry and cherry fruit notes and the scent of violets introduce a silky sweet wine on the palate with excellent fruit and structure; the long finish is only gently pushed by French oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Sacred HillP One hundred per cent Cabernet Sauvignon; fermented and hand-plunged in small open fermenters, and given post-fermentation maceration. Fifteen months in predominantly new French barriques.S Mature cheddarX 4326Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Basket Press Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _+Sacred Hill Basket Press Cabernet Sauvignon Sacred Hill $21-25 14/7/98 5/2/98 Sacred Hill [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium purple-red; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity but shows quite classic cool-grown Cabernet aromas, with some cassis. The palate is clean and firm, but simply lacks flesh and fruit sweetness - at least by Australian standards. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity but shows quite classic cool-grown Cabernet aromas, with some cassis. The palate is clean and firm, but simply lacks flesh and fruit sweetness - at least by Australian standards.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 SelaksP 12.95Q Selaks has a multiplicity of Sauvignon Blanc brands and labels these days, but the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc which started it all continues to be its commercial flagship.S Stir-fried vegetablesX 4327Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _"Selaks Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Selaks Drylands Estate Winery $11-15 14/7/98 5/2/98 Selaks Drylands Estate Winery [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a clean and fresh bouquet with gentle asparagus, herb and gooseberry aromas is followed by a wine which does not make any dramatic statements, but has perfectly ripened sauvignon blanc in the mid-range of flavours, and excellent length. Rated high simply because it is so classic, and because of its very good finish and length. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a clean and fresh bouquet with gentle asparagus, herb and gooseberry aromas is followed by a wine which does not make any dramatic statements, but has perfectly ripened sauvignon blanc in the mid-range of flavours, and excellent length. Rated high simply because it is so classic, and because of its very good finish and length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Selaks Drylands EstateP 14.95Q Introduced in 1996, and barrel-fermented in a mix of French and American oak, with the usual attendant winemaking inputs, most notably malolactic fermentation and lees contact. A more than useful debut.S Chicken pieX 4328Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _!Selaks Drylands Estate Chardonnay Selaks Drylands Estate Winery $11-15 14/7/98 5/2/98 Selaks Drylands Estate Winery [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; a classy bouquet with nutty cashew creamy aromas and subtle oak. The palate is long, with nicely controlled malolactic fermentation inputs on melon, fig and cashew flavours. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a classy bouquet with nutty cashew creamy aromas and subtle oak. The palate is long, with nicely controlled malolactic fermentation inputs on melon, fig and cashew flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 SoljansP Produced from Hawke's Bay fruit, half fermented in stainless steel and half barrel-fermented in a mix of new and old French oak. The wine is matured in oak with lees contact for six months.S Pork chopsX 4329Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Barrique Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _#Soljans Barrique Reserve Chardonnay Soljans Wines $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Soljans Wines &[3wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a very ripe bouquet with tropical peachy pineapple fruit is followed by a fleshy, ripe slightly phenolic wine which is very reminiscent of the New Zealand Chardonnays of bygone days, but which certainly does have soft flavour. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a very ripe bouquet with tropical peachy pineapple fruit is followed by a fleshy, ripe slightly phenolic wine which is very reminiscent of the New Zealand Chardonnays of bygone days, but which certainly does have soft flavour.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Spencer HillP Produced in small quantities (375 cases in 1996) and the flagship wine for Spencer Hill. On the evidence of the 96, made with the philosophy that more is best.S Chicken fricasseeX 4331Y 14/7/98a Nelson s Vineyard Moutere Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _/Spencer Hill Evan s Vineyard Moutere Chardonnay Spencer Hill Estate $26-50 14/7/98 5/2/98 Spencer Hill Estate _[4wine glasses] 1996 Full straw-yellow; a very complex, rich and nutty bouquet with strong malolactic fermentation inputs is followed by a palate in which, once again, malolactic characters seem to drive the wine. There are opulent fruit flavours, with nuances of mandarin, suggesting a touch of botrytis was at work in the vineyard. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full straw-yellow; a very complex, rich and nutty bouquet with strong malolactic fermentation inputs is followed by a palate in which, once again, malolactic characters seem to drive the wine. There are opulent fruit flavours, with nuances of mandarin, suggesting a touch of botrytis was at work in the vineyard.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Spencer HillP Another wine from Philip Jones which strikes off in a very deliberate style of its own. It includes 15% Gewurztraminer, is partially barrel-fermented and is lees aged.S Sugar-cured tunaX 4332Y 14/7/98a Nelson Tasman Bay Nelson Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _'Spencer Hill Tasman Bay Nelson Riesling Spencer Hill Estate $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Spencer Hill Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Distinct straw tinges; discreet minerally/toasty aromas tinged with citrus merge into a lime blossom palate of light to medium weight with a mix of spice, apple and smoky flavours, with balanced sweetness on the finish. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Distinct straw tinges; discreet minerally/toasty aromas tinged with citrus merge into a lime blossom palate of light to medium weight with a mix of spice, apple and smoky flavours, with balanced sweetness on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Te Mata EstateP 18.85Q A single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc which is entirely barrel-fermented (20% new oak) and given lees contact but no malolactic fermentation. It is the richer and fuller of the two Te Mata Sauvignon Blancs. S Pan-fried whitebaitX 4333Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _)Te Mata Estate Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc Te Mata Estate $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Te Mata Estate j[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Bright, light green-yellow; a quite complex bouquet with obvious barrel-ferment inputs into ripe fruit which could almost be mistaken for a cool-climate Chardonnay, with hints of melon and fig. The oak is less assertive on the relatively delicate palate which is crisp and clean, with a tight, faintly smoky/spicy finish. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright, light green-yellow; a quite complex bouquet with obvious barrel-ferment inputs into ripe fruit which could almost be mistaken for a cool-climate Chardonnay, with hints of melon and fig. The oak is less assertive on the relatively delicate palate which is crisp and clean, with a tight, faintly smoky/spicy finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Te Mata EstateP 14.95Q Another single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, usually fermented in stainless steel, although in 1997 a percentage was barrel-fermented in old oak. Quite deliberately, a lighter, fresher style.S MusselsX 4334Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Castle Hill Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _*Te Mata Estate Castle Hill Sauvignon Blanc Te Mata Estate $11-15 14/7/98 5/2/98 Te Mata Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; a crisp, clean and tangy bouquet of medium intensity with herbaceous overtones to the fruit. The wine has good mouthfeel, with some citrus, a touch of passionfruit and just an echo of sweetness on the finish. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a crisp, clean and tangy bouquet of medium intensity with herbaceous overtones to the fruit. The wine has good mouthfeel, with some citrus, a touch of passionfruit and just an echo of sweetness on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Te Mata EstateP 29.50 One of New Zealand's most highly rated Chardonnays, drawn primarily from the Elston Vineyard, but also in part from a vineyard at Havelock North. It is given the full treatment in the winery, with 100% barrel fermentation in French oak, and 100% malolactic fermentation. High-quality fishX 4335Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Elston Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _ Te Mata Estate Elston Chardonnay Te Mata Estate $26-50 14/7/98 5/2/98 Te Mata Estate D[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; fine, elegant and classic were the first three words on my tasting sheet; then melon fruit with a background touch of oak spice. The palate has grip and focus, with a very complex array of cashew, mineral, melon and citrus flavours, with an almost piercing finish. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; fine, elegant and classic were the first three words on my tasting sheet; then melon fruit with a background touch of oak spice. The palate has grip and focus, with a very complex array of cashew, mineral, melon and citrus flavours, with an almost piercing finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Te Mata EstateP Introduced in 1995, and both in that year and in 1996 added a dimension to the understanding of Syrah in New Zealand, in much the same way as the first Coleraine did back in 1982. S Spiced lambX 4336Y 14/7/98 Hawke s Bay Bullnose Syrah Shiraz New Zealand Te Mata Estate Bullnose Syrah Te Mata Estate $26-50 14/7/98 5/2/98 Te Mata Estate v[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a fine and elegant bouquet with a dash of spice and pepper on top of classic black cherry varietal fruit on the bouquet. That same varietal character comes lancing through the palate,with liquorice, spice and pepper flavours, and an elegance which is missing from all of the other Hawke's Bay Syrahs I have tasted. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a fine and elegant bouquet with a dash of spice and pepper on top of classic black cherry varietal fruit on the bouquet. That same varietal character comes lancing through the palate,with liquorice, spice and pepper flavours, and an elegance which is missing from all of the other Hawke's Bay Syrahs I have tasted.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Vidal EstateP 18.50 The Bays range was introduced onto the market in early 1998, and mainly directed at the restaurant trade. It fits in between the Estate Range, and the obvious hope is to avoid retail price-cutting, thereby encouraging restaurants to list the wine. The wine is barrel-fermented at ambient temperatures, with some solids in the juice, and is matured in oak for nine months. Twenty per cent is taken through malolactic fermentation. An interesting style which, apart from the commercial considerat B8ions, can also be legitimately described as a food wine. NAU Full-flavoured white meat dishesX 4337Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay The Bays Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _ Vidal Estate The Bays Chardonnay Vidal Estate $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Vidal Estate s[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with subtle melon and cashew fruit with neatly balanced and integrated oak. The palate shows the ambient fermentation techniques, with flavours in the secondary, rather than the primary, spectrum, and pronounced cashew/creamy malolactic and lees contact characters. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with subtle melon and cashew fruit with neatly balanced and integrated oak. The palate shows the ambient fermentation techniques, with flavours in the secondary, rather than the primary, spectrum, and pronounced cashew/creamy malolactic and lees contact characters.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Vidal EstateP I remain to be convinced that anyone should be planting pinot noir in Hawke's Bay, particularly if they have the option of anywhere from Martinborough through to Central Otago. However, I have to admit to a sneaking regard for this wine.S QuailX 4338Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Vidal Estate Pinot Noir Vidal Estate $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Vidal Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fresh and bright, with fairly straightforward cherry and plum fruit, but the wine grabs attention on the well-structured palate, with ripe plum and cherry fruit, and a nice stemmy cut to the firm finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fresh and bright, with fairly straightforward cherry and plum fruit, but the wine grabs attention on the well-structured palate, with ripe plum and cherry fruit, and a nice stemmy cut to the firm finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Villa MariaP 14.95Q A blend of Marlborough, Te Kauwhata and Hawke's Bay grapes simply cold fermented in stainless steel, and with no tricks of any kind.S GazpachoX 4339Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _'Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc Villa Maria $11-15 14/7/98 5/2/98 Villa Maria [5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; stylish and fragrant with overtones of passionfruit on both bouquet and palate, complementing the more citrussy elements. Lively, fresh and well balanced. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; stylish and fragrant with overtones of passionfruit on both bouquet and palate, complementing the more citrussy elements. Lively, fresh and well balanced.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Villa MariaP A wine which made its first appearance in 1996 from grapes grown in the Awatere Valley. Both the 96 and 97 are notable for their depth and intensity of flavour, but do give all the signs of being fast-developing styles. The 97 was runner-up to its sister wine Reserve Wairau Valley Sauvignon Blanc in the Medium Bodied Dry White Table section of the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition. Prawn and avocado saladX 4340Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Reserve Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _0Villa Maria Reserve Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc Villa Maria $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Villa Maria [5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; powerful, ripe gooseberry, passionfruit, banana and melon fruit aromas on the bouquet lead into an extremely rich, full-flavoured succulent wine on the palate. Strikingly different to many Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; powerful, ripe gooseberry, passionfruit, banana and melon fruit aromas on the bouquet lead into an extremely rich, full-flavoured succulent wine on the palate. Strikingly different to many Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Villa MariaP Yet another good Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc, drawn from the Rapaura and Awatere Valley regions, and with just a small percentage given a touch of oak. S NAU Fish soupX 4341Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _,Villa Maria Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc Villa Maria $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Villa Maria [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a fresh and crisp bouquet with a mix of lemon, citrus and mineral aromas leads into a well-balanced moderately ripe citrus and gooseberry-flavoured palate. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a fresh and crisp bouquet with a mix of lemon, citrus and mineral aromas leads into a well-balanced moderately ripe citrus and gooseberry-flavoured palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Vidal EstateP An extraordinarily impressive wine given its price, but perhaps benefiting from a less-tricky approach to the winemaking. Oak-aged for only three months, with the fruit allowed to do the work.S Creamy pastaX 4342Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _#Vidal Estate Hawke s Bay Chardonnay Vidal Estate $11-15 14/7/98 5/2/98 Vidal Estate '[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium green-yellow; the bouquet is of medium intensity with melon and fig fruit supported by just a hint of oak. A stylish, elegant and understated wine on the palate, but excellent fruit and varietal character build on a long carry and finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; the bouquet is of medium intensity with melon and fig fruit supported by just a hint of oak. A stylish, elegant and understated wine on the palate, but excellent fruit and varietal character build on a long carry and finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Villa MariaP A neat blend of Gisborne and Marlborough grapes, 30% barrel-fermented and matured in oak for six months. The oak input has the typical Villa Maria stamp on it, and, for my palate at least, teeters on the edge of being overdone.S Ginger porkX 4343Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Cellar Selection Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _'Villa Maria Cellar Selection Chardonnay Villa Maria $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Villa Maria [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite complex with strong toasty barrel-ferment oak quite evident, but the palate is generously flavoured with ripe melon fruit and, inevitably, dollops of oak. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite complex with strong toasty barrel-ferment oak quite evident, but the palate is generously flavoured with ripe melon fruit and, inevitably, dollops of oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 West BrookP The top-of-the-line Sauvignon Blanc from West Brook, particularly good in 1996 (a gold medal at the 1997 Auckland Easter Show), but also good in 1997.S Prosciutto and melonX 4344Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Blue Ridge Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _%West Brook Blue Ridge Sauvignon Blanc West Brook Winery $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 West Brook Winery [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; clean, tropical gooseberry fruit of medium intensity with a hint of spice, possibly from a touch of oak. The palate has the tropical gooseberry and passionfruit flavours of the 96, but is not by any means as intense. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; clean, tropical gooseberry fruit of medium intensity with a hint of spice, possibly from a touch of oak. The palate has the tropical gooseberry and passionfruit flavours of the 96, but is not by any means as intense.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 West BrookP 95 vintage of this wine was made from Gisborne fruit, but the 96 comes from Henderson. Barrel-fermented in a mix of French and American oak, it shows highly skilled winemaking, although there is an echo of something in the wine which just holds it back a touch. SweetbreadsX 14/7/98a Auckland Area Barrique Fermented Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _(West Brook Barrique Fermented Chardonnay West Brook Winery $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 West Brook Winery v[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with cashew, melon and fig fruit supported by subtle oak. The palate has fresh nectarine fruit, some cashew characters and good balance; there is just an errant touch of burnt-matchstick character which haunts the end of the bouquet and the very finish of the palate. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with cashew, melon and fig fruit supported by subtle oak. The palate has fresh nectarine fruit, some cashew characters and good balance; there is just an errant touch of burnt-matchstick character which haunts the end of the bouquet and the very finish of the palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 WhitehavenP Multiple vineyard sites and multiple pickings are used by Simon Waghorn to add complexity to a wine which is then simply fermented in stainless steel and early bottled.S NAU CrustaceaX 4346Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc Whitehaven Wine Company $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Whitehaven Wine Company [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a clean, crisp, lemon-scented bouquet with some herbal notes also evident leads into a capsicum, lemon and lime-flavoured palate with a crisp, dry finish. No frills, but it doesn't need any. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a clean, crisp, lemon-scented bouquet with some herbal notes also evident leads into a capsicum, lemon and lime-flavoured palate with a crisp, dry finish. No frills, but it doesn't need any.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 BalnavesP Only produced when seasonal conditions permit; not made, for example, in either 1994 or 1995. Selected from estate-grown grapes from the highest and stoniest part of the Balnaves shiraz plantings. The fermentation in vinimatic is completed in new and second-use American oak barrels. Cotechino sausagesX 4348Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Balnaves Shiraz Balnaves of Coonawarra $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Balnaves of Coonawarra [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a most attractive bouquet, with rich, dark plum, chocolate and other sweet fruit aromas; an almost sumptuous wine on the palate, with rich, dark plum fruit flavours cradled in vanillin oak. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a most attractive bouquet, with rich, dark plum, chocolate and other sweet fruit aromas; an almost sumptuous wine on the palate, with rich, dark plum fruit flavours cradled in vanillin oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Briar RidgeP 21Q[The prestige Semillon from Briar Ridge, drawn from vineyards at Pokolbin and at Mountview. S Flathead filletsX 4349Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Stockhausen Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _ Briar Ridge Stockhausen Semillon Briar Ridge $21-25 14/7/98 5/2/98 Briar Ridge [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium to full intensity, quite tight and classic, with some minerally characters. The palate, too, is rather tighter, with lively lemony flavours and good length, finishing with crisp acidity. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium to full intensity, quite tight and classic, with some minerally characters. The palate, too, is rather tighter, with lively lemony flavours and good length, finishing with crisp acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Briar RidgeP The flagship Chardonnay from Briar Ridge, barrel-fermented and matured in new French oak for nine months. In some vintages the oak has been somewhat heavy-handed, but not 1997 a particularly good achievement given the difficult vintage conditions.S KasslerX 4350Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chairman Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Briar Ridge Chairman s Chardonnay Briar Ridge $21-25 14/7/98 5/2/98 Briar Ridge [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a complex bouquet with pronounced nutty/buttery oak. A powerful wine on the palate with strong oak inputs, but sufficient fruit there to justify that oak; good structure and acidity. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a complex bouquet with pronounced nutty/buttery oak. A powerful wine on the palate with strong oak inputs, but sufficient fruit there to justify that oak; good structure and acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Brown BrothersP 28.85 kThe Family Reserve range sits at the top of the Brown Brothers tree, the white wines held back for at least three years bottle age, the Cabernet-based reds for eight years. The Chardonnay is a vineyard selection from the King Valley, barrel-fermented in a mix of new and used French oak barriques, with 70% being matured in oak for eight months prior to bottling. Veal terrineX 4351Y 14/7/98a King Valley Family Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _(Brown Brothers Family Reserve Chardonnay Brown Brothers $26-50 14/7/98 5/2/98 Brown Brothers c[4.5wine glasses] 1994 Full yellow, still with a touch of green; a full, complex, pungent bottle-developed bouquet with strong buttery/toasty aromas. The palate, which has reached the peak of its development, has masses of peachy/buttery fruit and attractive toasty oak characters in support. It won three trophies in wine shows in 1997. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Full yellow, still with a touch of green; a full, complex, pungent bottle-developed bouquet with strong buttery/toasty aromas. The palate, which has reached the peak of its development, has masses of peachy/buttery fruit and attractive toasty oak characters in support. It won three trophies in wine shows in 1997.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Brown BrothersP 34.75 The Classic Release Cabernets are first marketed when five years old. Typically sourced from the best growers in the upper reaches of the King Valley, sometimes with a dash of Shiraz added to the blend. A wide spread of picking dates (from March until May) adds complexity, and the wine is partially barrel-fermented, and then matured for 18 months in a mix of French and American oak, some new, some old. Grilled veal chopsX 4352Y 14/7/98a King Valley Classic Release Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _1Brown Brothers Classic Release Cabernet Sauvignon Brown Brothers $26-50 14/7/98 5/2/98 Brown Brothers [4wine glasses] 1992 Medium to full red-purple; a fragrant bouquet with a mix of sweet fruit, more leafy notes, and cedar and vanillin oak, which is well integrated. A generously flavoured wine on the palate with sweet fruit, pleasant vanilla oak and soft tannins. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1992 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a fragrant bouquet with a mix of sweet fruit, more leafy notes, and cedar and vanillin oak, which is well integrated. A generously flavoured wine on the palate with sweet fruit, pleasant vanilla oak and soft tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Castle Rock EstateP Undoubtedly a slow-developing style, and, like the Riesling, often deceptively light in its youth. Vintage variation, too, plays a role, and some of the wines have lacked concentration. However, both the 94 and 97 are fine wines, the 97 due for release at the end of 1998. Marron or lobsterX 4353Y 14/7/98a Great Southern Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Castle Rock Estate Chardonnay Castle Rock Estate $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Castle Rock Estate R[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; showed particularly attractive melon and cashew fruit on both bouquet and palate shortly after bottling, and will undoubtedly go forward from here. The palate is elegant and fine, with citrus and cashew flavours; the wine has what can only be described as a 'dancing delicacy'. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; showed particularly attractive melon and cashew fruit on both bouquet and palate shortly after bottling, and will undoubtedly go forward from here. The palate is elegant and fine, with citrus and cashew flavours; the wine has what can only be described as a 'dancing delicacy'. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Castle Rock EstateP 7The wine is fermented in open tanks and matured for 12 months in French oak. There is no doubt that Pinot Noir in the Great Southern region is vintage-dependent. Castle Rock regards the 96 as the best Pinot Noir it has made, and it is not hard to see why. Yet, on the other hand, none at all was made in 1997. Smoked quailX 4354Y 14/7/98a Great Southern Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Castle Rock Estate Pinot Noir Castle Rock Estate $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Castle Rock Estate G[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red, with just a touch of purple; the bouquet is fragrant, with a mix of cherry and plum fruit set against more foresty/earthy characters. There is a similar mix on the palate, with plum, briar and forest flavours and above average weight and length. A major and pleasant surprise. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red, with just a touch of purple; the bouquet is fragrant, with a mix of cherry and plum fruit set against more foresty/earthy characters. There is a similar mix on the palate, with plum, briar and forest flavours and above average weight and length. A major and pleasant surprise.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 CassegrainP 14.95 Produced solely from grapes grown in various vineyards in the Hastings River region, and cold-fermented in traditional large oak vats. Given one month's lees contact and then racked and bottled mid-year. Traditional Semillon making. OystersX 4355Y 14/7/98a Hastings River Hastings River Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _"Cassegrain Hastings River Semillon Cassegrain $11-15 14/7/98 5/2/98 Cassegrain [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; an interesting mix of toast and herb aromas, almost going into tobacco. There is a similar range of honey and herb flavours on the palate, with well-balanced acidity. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; an interesting mix of toast and herb aromas, almost going into tobacco. There is a similar range of honey and herb flavours on the palate, with well-balanced acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Coolangatta EstateP Produced from estate-grown grapes. Chambourcin is particularly well suited to the relatively wet and humid conditions of the New South Wales coast, as it is a hybrid with strong disease resistance, and the ability to retain excellent colour.S PizzaX 4356Y 14/7/98a Shoalhaven Eileen Chambourcin Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _%Coolangatta Estate Eileen Chambourcin Coolangatta Estate $11-15 14/7/98 5/2/98 Coolangatta Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; rich, dark blackberry fruit aromas have a whisker of what may be charry vanilla oak in the background. On the palate rich, sweet, juicy blackberry fruit on the mid palate is followed by slightly fierce acid on the finish, suggestion the wine may not have undergone malolactic fermentation. Always best when young and fresh. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; rich, dark blackberry fruit aromas have a whisker of what may be charry vanilla oak in the background. On the palate rich, sweet, juicy blackberry fruit on the mid palate is followed by slightly fierce acid on the finish, suggestion the wine may not have undergone malolactic fermentation. Always best when young and fresh.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 %N DalfarrasP 16.95 While some of the Dalfarras wines do not seem particularly different in style from those of Chateau Tahbilk, this wine certainly does. Matured in new French and American oak barrels for 18 months, and made entirely from Goulburn Valley grapes, it is a rich, sweet and supple style. Steak and kidney pieX 4357Y 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Dalfarras Shiraz c Dalfarras $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 % Dalfarras |[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red; the bouquet is not particularly rich or robust, but does have attractive liquorice, game and earth varietal aromas with well-balanced oak. The palate is particularly harmonious and smooth, with berry and liquorice fruit flavours, and seems to have swallowed up the oak in which it was matured. Finishes with soft tannins. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red; the bouquet is not particularly rich or robust, but does have attractive liquorice, game and earth varietal aromas with well-balanced oak. The palate is particularly harmonious and smooth, with berry and liquorice fruit flavours, and seems to have swallowed up the oak in which it was matured. Finishes with soft tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 &N AuldstoneP Made in similar rich, dense and concentrated style to that of the Shiraz. Widely separated tastings in different circumstances come up with some similar taste descriptors for both wines, notably dried prune. Drawn from the heart of 6.5 hectares of estate plantings. Beef in red wine sauceX 4358Y 14/7/98a Glenrowan Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Auldstone Cabernet Sauvignon c Auldstone $11-15 14/7/98 5/2/98 % Auldstone [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Deep red; solid chocolaty, briary and dried prune aromas with varietal earthy overtones on the bouquet; a rich, full dark prune, berry and chocolatey-flavoured palate follows, with a slightly tough finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Deep red; solid chocolaty, briary and dried prune aromas with varietal earthy overtones on the bouquet; a rich, full dark prune, berry and chocolatey-flavoured palate follows, with a slightly tough finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 BindiP 27.75 Bindi produces complex rich and notably long-lived Chardonnay. A four-vintage mini vertical tasting in January 1998 produced top points for the still-youthful, complex and powerful 91 vintage (92 points), followed by the citrussy 94, with an exceptionally long, fine palate (87 points), then a curiously garlicky 95, which I did not like at all (73 points), and the very different 96, most deeply coloured of all of the wines, and showing what appears to be some botrytis influence. Corn-fed chickenX 4360Y 14/7/98a Macedon Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Bindi Chardonnay Bindi Wine Growers $26-50 14/7/98 5/2/98 Bindi Wine Growers 0[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Full, developed yellow-green; a voluminous bouquet with peach, apricot, butter and butterscotch aromas is followed by a fleshy, fruity wine, quite reminiscent of some New Zealand Chardonnays, and again pointing the finger of suspicion at some botrytis influence. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Full, developed yellow-green; a voluminous bouquet with peach, apricot, butter and butterscotch aromas is followed by a fleshy, fruity wine, quite reminiscent of some New Zealand Chardonnays, and again pointing the finger of suspicion at some botrytis influence. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Brangayne of OrangeP 16.65 +The best chardonnay, picked riper (13.5 degrees versus 13 degrees than the Premium Chardonnay) is barrel-fermented in a mix of Allier and Vosges French oak barriques, before spending five months on lees. Sophisticated winemaking with excellent base material has produced a spectacular first-up wine. Flathead filletsX 4361Y 14/7/98a Orange Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Brangayne of Orange Reserve Chardonnay Brangayne of Orange $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Brangayne of Orange 9[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a sophisticated bouquet, subtle yet complex, with melon and cashew aromas is followed by an even better palate. Cashew, fig and melon fruit is supported by quite beautiful oak handling; while by no means a heavyweight, has great development potential. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a sophisticated bouquet, subtle yet complex, with melon and cashew aromas is followed by an even better palate. Cashew, fig and melon fruit is supported by quite beautiful oak handling; while by no means a heavyweight, has great development potential.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Brangayne of OrangeP An impressive debut from 2.3 hectares of estate plantings. Meticulous attention to viticulture has resulted in perfect ripening of the fruit. Made in tiny quantities, and only briefly available at cellar door, but with increased quantities in the future.S Lamb filletsX 4362Y 14/7/98a Orange Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Brangayne of Orange Shiraz Brangayne of Orange $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Brangayne of Orange [4wine glasses] 1996 Bright red-purple; rich, ripe cherry fruit and vanilla oak on the bouquet are followed by more perfectly ripened cherry/berry fruit flavours on an exceptionally attractive palate for a first-crop wine. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright red-purple; rich, ripe cherry fruit and vanilla oak on the bouquet are followed by more perfectly ripened cherry/berry fruit flavours on an exceptionally attractive palate for a first-crop wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 CapercaillieP Elegantly packaged in the traditional tall, hock-style bottle, though in antique green which adds to the thoroughly modern feel of the label. An interesting wine which is made in a style which is likely to develop well.S Wonton soupX 4363Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _#Capercaillie Hunter Valley Semillon Capercaillie $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Capercaillie P[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is starting to show the emergence of some honey and toast aromas, but the palate is much more youthful, with relatively high acidity jagging slightly on the finish. The SO2 levels also seem quite high. Such wines usually develop marvellously with time in bottle. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is starting to show the emergence of some honey and toast aromas, but the palate is much more youthful, with relatively high acidity jagging slightly on the finish. The SO2 levels also seem quite high. Such wines usually develop marvellously with time in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 CapercaillieP The benchmark for Capercaillie, produced predominantly from 4.5 hectares of chardonnay which is now over 20 years old. Opulent oak handling is part of the style that will appeal more to some than others.S Spiced chickenX 4364Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _%Capercaillie Hunter Valley Chardonnay Capercaillie $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Capercaillie ~[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; very strong spicy/clove/nutmeg American oak is the first impression on a strikingly rich bouquet. The palate, too, is driven by sophisticated and largely successful use of American oak, although it does catch up a little on the finish, where coffee/toffee flavours overtake the vanilla and peach of the mid-palate. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; very strong spicy/clove/nutmeg American oak is the first impression on a strikingly rich bouquet. The palate, too, is driven by sophisticated and largely successful use of American oak, although it does catch up a little on the finish, where coffee/toffee flavours overtake the vanilla and peach of the mid-palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Cowra EstateP 13.99 .The obvious question is why Classic Bat (and a label depicting Victor Trumper). The answer, says John Geber, is because Trumper's unique cricketing style also personifies the very best of Cowra Estate wines: consistency, character and quality. Hmmm. Actually, this is a very decent wine at the price. PizzaX 4365Y 14/7/98a Cowra Classic Bat Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _(Cowra Estate Classic Bat Cabernet Merlot Cowra Estate $11-15 14/7/98 5/2/98 Cowra Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with pleasant chocolate, red berry and earth aromas of medium intensity. The palate is direct, but with plenty of attractive red berry, chocolate and mint-flavoured fruit; subtle oak. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with pleasant chocolate, red berry and earth aromas of medium intensity. The palate is direct, but with plenty of attractive red berry, chocolate and mint-flavoured fruit; subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Driftwood EstateP 16.20 EThe only such wine made in the Margaret River region; the severing of canes on the vine, allowing the fruit to raisin thereby increasing both sugar and acid levels is not uncommon in the Barossa and Clare Valleys, and is used in regions where botrytis does not occur. A most successful innovation for the Margaret River. Baked appleX 4366Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Cane Cut Semillon Sweet Sweet Z Australia _"Driftwood Estate Cane Cut Semillon Driftwood Estate $16-20 14/7/98 5/2/98 Driftwood Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Glowing yellow; the bouquet has rich honey and toffee aromas, with more style and intensity than expected. The palate is similarly rich, with peach and honey flavours balanced by crisp acidity on the finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow; the bouquet has rich honey and toffee aromas, with more style and intensity than expected. The palate is similarly rich, with peach and honey flavours balanced by crisp acidity on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Eyton-on-YarraP The NDC Reserve range (currently Merlot and Shiraz) was created in memory of Eyton's founder, Newell Cowan. The wines are considered to be premium selections, and spend 18 months in oak.S Braised beefX 4367Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley NDC Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _!Eyton-on-Yarra NDC Reserve Shiraz Eyton-on-Yarra $26-50 14/7/98 6/2/98 Eyton-on-Yarra ^[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; vanillin American oak is dominant on both bouquet and palate, although there is quite a deal of sweet fruit underneath that oak. An interesting wine, seemingly closer in style to traditional South Australian Shiraz than one normally encounters in the Yarra Valley. Flavoursome, if atypical. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; vanillin American oak is dominant on both bouquet and palate, although there is quite a deal of sweet fruit underneath that oak. An interesting wine, seemingly closer in style to traditional South Australian Shiraz than one normally encounters in the Yarra Valley. Flavoursome, if atypical.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Fyffe FieldP 10Q,Made from Verdelho in a clean, direct style.S SaladX 4368Y 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Diamond White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Fyffe Field Diamond White Fyffe Field e under $10 14/7/98 6/2/98 Fyffe Field E[3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet does not show a great deal of fruit varietal character, but is fresh and clean; the palate, likewise, is light, with crisp herbal notes and a clean, but not particularly varietal, finish. A bronze medal winner at the Ballarat Wine Show in 1997. RATING: 77 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet does not show a great deal of fruit varietal character, but is fresh and clean; the palate, likewise, is light, with crisp herbal notes and a clean, but not particularly varietal, finish. A bronze medal winner at the Ballarat Wine Show in 1997.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">77 Fyffe FieldP As the label itself proclaims, this is the second vintage of Shiraz from Fyffe Field's own vineyards, and is matured in American oak.S Lamb chopsX 4369Y 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Fyffe Field Shiraz Fyffe Field $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Fyffe Field [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; earthy shiraz varietal fruit, with faintly leafy overtones, is followed by a palate of light to medium weight, with fractionally astringent earthy berry fruit flavours, with fine tannins contributing to the length. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; earthy shiraz varietal fruit, with faintly leafy overtones, is followed by a palate of light to medium weight, with fractionally astringent earthy berry fruit flavours, with fine tannins contributing to the length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Hayward's Whitehead CreekP 12.50 The Goulburn Valley is capable of producing enormously powerful red wines, as wineries such as Chateau Tahbilk and Longleat have demonstrated over the years. This Shiraz follows in the same track, if not beyond, for it is a massive wine, picked at 14.3 baum in 1996. Barbecued beefX 4370Y 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _ Hayward's Whitehead Creek Shiraz Hayward's Whitehead Creek $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Hayward's Whitehead Creek N[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; a very ripe, concentrated blackberry bouquet is followed by a massively powerful and concentrated palate, with a somewhat briary/tough finish. There is a suspicion of aldehydes from low sulphur dioxide, and the wine might have been better had it been picked a little earlier. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; a very ripe, concentrated blackberry bouquet is followed by a massively powerful and concentrated palate, with a somewhat briary/tough finish. There is a suspicion of aldehydes from low sulphur dioxide, and the wine might have been better had it been picked a little earlier.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Hill of HopeP The grapes are sourced from dry-grown, low-yielding vineyards, machine picked at night and cool fermented in stainless steel. This, together with early bottling, is designed to retain maximum fruit flavour.S PastaX 4371Y 10/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Hill of Hope Verdelho Hill of Hope 10/7/98 6/2/98 Hill of Hope [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the medium intensity bouquet shows quite good varietal character with a mix of fruit salad, honey and a hint of straw; the smooth palate has more of those honeyed fruit salad flavours, not unlike mature Semillon. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the medium intensity bouquet shows quite good varietal character with a mix of fruit salad, honey and a hint of straw; the smooth palate has more of those honeyed fruit salad flavours, not unlike mature Semillon. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Laurel BankP 17QwProduced from 1 hectare of estate plantings, and raises the question why more Sauvignon Blanc is not grown in Tasmania.S CalamariX 4372Y 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Laurel Bank Sauvignon Blanc Laurel Bank $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Laurel Bank 2[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; there is quite potent herbal/grassy Sauvignon Blanc varietal character on the bouquet, which is of good depth. Likewise, the palate has excellent length and bite, with crisp, tangy lemon and herb flavours. An altogether attractive wine. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there is quite potent herbal/grassy Sauvignon Blanc varietal character on the bouquet, which is of good depth. Likewise, the palate has excellent length and bite, with crisp, tangy lemon and herb flavours. An altogether attractive wine. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Lenswood VineyardsP OAn extension to the Lenswood range of wines, and an impressive addition at that. Three-quarters of the wine is barrel-fermented in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak barriques, and kept on its lees for five months with fortnightly stirring. The balance is stainless steel fermented and kept in steel until blending and bottling. Pork rillettesX 4373Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Lenswood Vineyards Semillon Lenswood Vineyards $21-25 14/7/98 6/2/98 Lenswood Vineyards [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium green-yellow; rich, spicy barrel-ferment oak aromas are quite pronounced on the bouquet, but so is the rich fruit. The same dynamics are at work on the palate, with complex, tangy barrel-ferment flavours and lingering fruit on the finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium green-yellow; rich, spicy barrel-ferment oak aromas are quite pronounced on the bouquet, but so is the rich fruit. The same dynamics are at work on the palate, with complex, tangy barrel-ferment flavours and lingering fruit on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 PicardyP A wine which will only serve to intensify the debate over the suitability of the Pemberton area for Pinot Noir, as it provides support for those who say it is. An impressive first vintage.S Braised pheasantX 4375Y 10/7/98a Pemberton Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Picardy Pinot Noir Picardy 10/7/98 6/2/98 Picardy [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; a complex bouquet with stemmy/leafy/briary/foresty aromas leads onto a palate which shows plenty of forest floor and leafy characters, but which has good length and undeniable varietal character. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; a complex bouquet with stemmy/leafy/briary/foresty aromas leads onto a palate which shows plenty of forest floor and leafy characters, but which has good length and undeniable varietal character. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Windy RidgeP While given fairly extended oak maturation, not beyond reasonable bounds. A wine which suggests that the Windy Ridge site is quite well suited to Pinot Noir.S Pastrami saladX 4376Y 14/7/98a Gippsland Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Windy Ridge Pinot Noir Windy Ridge Vineyard $21-25 14/7/98 6/2/98 Windy Ridge Vineyard [3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red; the bouquet is clean, with fair varietal character and aromas in the stemmy/earthy/tobacco spectrum. On the palate green leaf and mint flavours go with the more sappy varietal fruit character; reasonably good balance overall. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is clean, with fair varietal character and aromas in the stemmy/earthy/tobacco spectrum. On the palate green leaf and mint flavours go with the more sappy varietal fruit character; reasonably good balance overall.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Fermoy EstateP The Fermoy Estate Reserve range is made in very limited quantities, the Chardonnay around 200 cases. One hundred per cent barrel-fermented in Vosges and Allier oak, with a small percentage of new barrels, and taken through malolactic fermentation. Made in a distinctly European-style. Veal scaloppine 4377Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Fermoy Estate Reserve Chardonnay Fermoy Estate $26-50 14/7/98 6/2/98 Fermoy Estate -[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a restrained yet solid bouquet; moderately intense, but not fruity, leads onto a structured wine with pronounced secondary creamy/nutty flavours. There is a slightly bitter grip to the finish, and at no time is the wine lush in its impact. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a restrained yet solid bouquet; moderately intense, but not fruity, leads onto a structured wine with pronounced secondary creamy/nutty flavours. There is a slightly bitter grip to the finish, and at no time is the wine lush in its impact.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Garden GullyP 17.50 Produced from the old, dry-grown vineyards surrounding the attractive cellar door. Unquestionably the best of the Garden Gully range, year in, year out. S Barbecued lambX 4378Y 14/7/98a Grampians Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Garden Gully Shiraz Garden Gully Vineyards $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Garden Gully Vineyards [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet has a marvellous array of dark chocolate, black cherry and spice fruit, the palate displaying the same flavours with that typical restrained power and super-fine tannin structure of Great Western. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet has a marvellous array of dark chocolate, black cherry and spice fruit, the palate displaying the same flavours with that typical restrained power and super-fine tannin structure of Great Western.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Garden GullyP 24.90Q The label is not specific about the fruit sources for this wine, which still clings to the soon-to-be-outlawed Sparkling Burgundy name. Notwithstanding its relatively short time on lees, a good example of the style.S BorschX 4379Y 14/7/98a Grampians Sparkling Burgundy X Sparkling Sparkling Red Z Australia Garden Gully Sparkling Burgundy Garden Gully Vineyards $21-25 14/7/98 6/2/98 Garden Gully Vineyards [4wine glasses] 1996 Dark purple-red; a youthful, potent bouquet with rich dark fruit aromas, and a fresh, well-balanced palate of medium weight exhibiting an array of plum, berry and spice flavours. Should develop well with extended cork age. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Dark purple-red; a youthful, potent bouquet with rich dark fruit aromas, and a fresh, well-balanced palate of medium weight exhibiting an array of plum, berry and spice flavours. Should develop well with extended cork age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 HansonP Produced in the typically elegant, restrained style of all of the Hanson and Tarrahill Vineyard wines. 1996 was an extremely difficult vintage for late-ripening varieties in the Yarra Valley, and the wine is inevitably in part a captive of that vintage.S Smoked beefX 4380Y 10/7/98a Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Hanson Cabernet Sauvignon Hanson 10/7/98 6/2/98 Hanson [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; the bouquet is clean, with earthy/leafy/briary aromas of medium intensity. The palate is light, with flavours in the earthy/stemmy/briary spectrum, followed by a clean but low-tannin finish. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is clean, with earthy/leafy/briary aromas of medium intensity. The palate is light, with flavours in the earthy/stemmy/briary spectrum, followed by a clean but low-tannin finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Hamelin BayP First made in 1996, but not made in 1997 (the Sauvignon Blanc was blended with Semillon in that year). Estate-grown and stainless steel fermented.S Char-grilled octopusX 4381Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Hamelin Bay Sauvignon Blanc Hamelin Bay $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Hamelin Bay [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a quite powerful and intense bouquet with a mix of herb and grass aromas is followed by a palate with plenty of depth, the flavours running from asparagus through to gooseberry, finishing with firm authority. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a quite powerful and intense bouquet with a mix of herb and grass aromas is followed by a palate with plenty of depth, the flavours running from asparagus through to gooseberry, finishing with firm authority.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Hamelin BayP 20.50 Between 25% and 50% of the wine is barrel-fermented in French oak, the remainder in stainless steel, lees contact and partial malolactic fermentation then follow. A light-bodied but well-constructed style.S Lemon chickenX 4382Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Hamelin Bay Chardonnay Hamelin Bay $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Hamelin Bay [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a fragrant bouquet with delicate white peach and nectarine fruit together with subtle oak is replicated on the palate. Light-bodied, but the flavours and mouthfeel are pleasant. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a fragrant bouquet with delicate white peach and nectarine fruit together with subtle oak is replicated on the palate. Light-bodied, but the flavours and mouthfeel are pleasant.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Hanging RockP A blend of Semillon grown in Geelong and the estate Jim Jim vineyard together with Sauvignon Blanc from the Strathbogie Ranges. Cool fermented and early bottled, it is by a considerable distance the best of the Victoria range released in 1998.S NAU ShellfishX 4383Y 14/7/98a Macedon Victoria Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _.Hanging Rock Victoria Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Hanging Rock Winery $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Hanging Rock Winery [4wine glasses] 1997 Light straw-yellow; an absolutely correct and crisp tangy/minerally bouquet is followed by a crisp, clean, gently tangy palate with considerable length. A restrained but stylish wine which shows its cool-grown origins to best advantage. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light straw-yellow; an absolutely correct and crisp tangy/minerally bouquet is followed by a crisp, clean, gently tangy palate with considerable length. A restrained but stylish wine which shows its cool-grown origins to best advantage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Honeytree EstateP 19QsA classic Hunter Semillon, in large measure reflecting the maturity of the vines, now approaching 30 years of age. S Thai chickenX 4384Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Honeytree Estate Semillon Honeytree Estate $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Honeytree Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is firm, crisp and clean, with classic youthful herbaceous semillon aromas; the palate likewise delicate, clean and crisp with perfectly balanced lemony fruit and acid. Still a baby. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is firm, crisp and clean, with classic youthful herbaceous semillon aromas; the palate likewise delicate, clean and crisp with perfectly balanced lemony fruit and acid. Still a baby.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Honeytree EstateP 18.50QyProduced from 2.4 hectares of estate plantings. A silver medal winner at the 1997 Hunter Valley Boutique Winemakers Show.S LasagneX 4385Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _#Honeytree Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Honeytree Estate $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Honeytree Estate 2[3wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium red; light, earthy cabernet fruit on the bouquet is accompanied by slightly sawdusty oak. The pleasant red berry fruit of the palate again shows slightly ordinary oak, which may conceivably settle down and integrate with a little more time in bottle. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red; light, earthy cabernet fruit on the bouquet is accompanied by slightly sawdusty oak. The pleasant red berry fruit of the palate again shows slightly ordinary oak, which may conceivably settle down and integrate with a little more time in bottle. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 LangmeilP 10.50 BThere are no tricks to Barossa Valley White Frontignac, which is (or should be) a celebration of the ability of this grape to produce wine which is so intensely fruity you are entitled to wonder whether you are tasting grape juice or wine. Relatively late harvesting and cold fermentation are the keys, as this wine shows. Spicy Asian dishesX 4386Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley White Frontignac White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Langmeil White Frontignac Langmeil Winery e under $10 14/7/98 6/2/98 Langmeil Winery [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a rich, intensely grapey lime and blossom bouquet leads into a fruity/grapey palate which, while perhaps a fraction soft overall, is pleasantly and appropriately dry on the finish. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a rich, intensely grapey lime and blossom bouquet leads into a fruity/grapey palate which, while perhaps a fraction soft overall, is pleasantly and appropriately dry on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 LangmeilP 13.50QbAlthough the front label does not say so, in fact unoaked. Simple and direct, without pretensions.S Kentucky Fried ChickenX 4387Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Langmeil Chardonnay Langmeil Winery $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Langmeil Winery [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a solid bouquet with a mix of peachy and more minerally aromas, repeated precisely on the palate, with its yellow peach fruit, and slightly minerally finish. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a solid bouquet with a mix of peachy and more minerally aromas, repeated precisely on the palate, with its yellow peach fruit, and slightly minerally finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 LangmeilP 19.50Q The team at Langmeil describe this wine as a classic example of the honest traditional Barossan Shiraz . No hyperbole here, that is exactly what the wine is.S Kangaroo filletX 4388Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Langmeil Shiraz Langmeil Winery $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Langmeil Winery [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a rich, ripe and luscious bouquet with abundant black cherry and mint fruit billows into the palate, which delivers the same in spades. Fruit-driven; the barest hint of oak. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a rich, ripe and luscious bouquet with abundant black cherry and mint fruit billows into the palate, which delivers the same in spades. Fruit-driven; the barest hint of oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 LangmeilP 13.50 There is some exceedingly complex family history involved in the antecedents of Langmeil, a small part of which is honoured with the name of the wine, deriving from Selwin Ernest Auricht, from the founding family of the area. This apart, this somewhat improbable blend works quite well in an unpretentious but friendly wine. Although it is not specifically stated, I suspect this wine has never been in oak. SausagesX 4389Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Selwin s Lot Cabernet Grenache Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _.Langmeil Selwin s Lot Cabernet Grenache Shiraz Langmeil Winery $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Langmeil Winery [3wine glasses] 1996 Youthful red-purple; a surprisingly attractive, zesty, sweet juicy berry fruit-driven bouquet is followed by a lively slightly minty palate, finishing with slightly sharp acid. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Youthful red-purple; a surprisingly attractive, zesty, sweet juicy berry fruit-driven bouquet is followed by a lively slightly minty palate, finishing with slightly sharp acid. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Mount HurtleP 9.99QuGeoff Merrill is a veteran Ros maker, particularly from Grenache, and this wine shows almost 30 years of experience.S Asian cuisineX 4390Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Grenache Z Australia Mount Hurtle Grenache Ros Mount Hurtle e under $10 14/7/98 6/2/98 Mount Hurtle [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; a fresh, crisp cherry/berry bouquet introduces a bright, breezy cherry-flavoured wine, finishing crisp and dry. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a fresh, crisp cherry/berry bouquet introduces a bright, breezy cherry-flavoured wine, finishing crisp and dry.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 PalmersP NAQDShowed extremely well at the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Competition.S NAU Osso bucoX 4391Y 10/7/98 Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Palmers Merlot Palmers 10/7/98 6/2/98 Palmers 2[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fragrant, with an attractive mix of minty berry, cassis and cedar. The palate shows very ripe fruit flavours, sweet and minty but is not over-extracted, with spicy cedary oak handling a feature in a wine with above-average texture. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fragrant, with an attractive mix of minty berry, cassis and cedar. The palate shows very ripe fruit flavours, sweet and minty but is not over-extracted, with spicy cedary oak handling a feature in a wine with above-average texture.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Reg DraytonP By far the greatest part of Drayton's Lambkin Estate is planted to semillon, with over 11 hectares under vine on the basically sandy alluvial soils so well suited to the variety. Unsurprisingly, this is Reg Drayton's best white wine.S Salmon rouladeX 4392Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Lambkin Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Reg Drayton Lambkin Semillon Reg Drayton Wines $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Reg Drayton Wines [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and smooth, with a mix of lemon/mineral and some sweeter notes of moderate intensity. A solidly structured wine, with good depth and length, and which will develop nicely over the medium term. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and smooth, with a mix of lemon/mineral and some sweeter notes of moderate intensity. A solidly structured wine, with good depth and length, and which will develop nicely over the medium term.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 IN Tim GrampP With the underlying philosophy of matching variety and region, it is not surprising Tim Gramp's Riesling comes from Watervale in the Clare Valley. Made in a bold, full-frontal style.S BouillabaisseX 4393Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley M Watervale Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Tim Gramp Watervale Riesling c Tim Gramp $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 % Tim Gramp [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a bouquet which falls on the full side of the Clare watershed, with a powerfully structured palate of lemon/citrus and mineral flavours, with a dry finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a bouquet which falls on the full side of the Clare watershed, with a powerfully structured palate of lemon/citrus and mineral flavours, with a dry finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Steins I know little of the background of this wine, except to say that it is an unusual style for Mudgee, and has almost certainly been made from grapes unaffected by botrytis. However, it succeeds admirably.S Prosciutto and melonX 4394Y 14/7/98a Mudgee Late Harvest Riesling 375 ml Sweet Sweet Z Australia _#Steins Late Harvest Riesling 375 ml Steins e under $10 14/7/98 6/2/98 Steins [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with quite intense lime fruit aromas, the palate similarly well balanced, clean and flavoursome, with richly sweet lime fruit balanced by appropriate acidity. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with quite intense lime fruit aromas, the palate similarly well balanced, clean and flavoursome, with richly sweet lime fruit balanced by appropriate acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 All SaintsP 12.50 \A wine which bears testimony to the common ownership of Brown Brothers, All Saints and St Leonards, for this is a variety which all three have produced from time to time, but which is otherwise extremely rare. Produces a great aperitif-style of wine for consumption when you simply want a glass of something cold to drink without accompanying food. Dappled sunlightX 4395Y 14/7/98a Rutherglen Orange Muscat White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia All Saints Orange Muscat All Saints $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 All Saints J[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is extremely fruity with strong floral spice aromas. The palate, too, is tangy and floral, akin to chewing the petals of a strongly scented flower, at once tangy and sweet. But it is fruit sweetness, not sugar sweetness, for the wine is quite dry. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is extremely fruity with strong floral spice aromas. The palate, too, is tangy and floral, akin to chewing the petals of a strongly scented flower, at once tangy and sweet. But it is fruit sweetness, not sugar sweetness, for the wine is quite dry.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 PizziniP NAQrNeedless to say, estate-grown, and produced from a carefully chosen, small portion of the output of the vineyard. S LasagneX 4396Y 10/7/98a King Valley Alfred Pizzini Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia _&Pizzini Alfred Pizzini Shiraz Cabernet Pizzini 10/7/98 6/2/98 Pizzini M[3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with a mix of earthy, gamey and faintly minty aromas. The wine has more weight on the palate than the bouquet suggests, with quite chewy chocolate, earth and mint flavours, finishing with subtle oak and attractively sweet tannins. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with a mix of earthy, gamey and faintly minty aromas. The wine has more weight on the palate than the bouquet suggests, with quite chewy chocolate, earth and mint flavours, finishing with subtle oak and attractively sweet tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Bald MountainP MQtTwo vintages of Shiraz ( 93 and 94) were available in 1998, both very attractive wines showing fully ripened fruit.S Beef in red wineX 4397Y 10/7/98a Granite Belt Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Bald Mountain Shiraz Bald Mountain 10/7/98 6/2/98 Bald Mountain [4wine glasses] 1993 Medium red-purple; sweet chocolate and berry aromas of medium to full intensity are supported by subtle oak on both bouquet and palate. Still quite youthful, well balanced and again with just a trace of lift. RATING: 85 [4wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; sweet, ripe chocolate, cherry and vanilla aromas are followed by a lively chocolate and berry-flavoured palate. A degree of volatile lift is more help than hindrance. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1993 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; sweet chocolate and berry aromas of medium to full intensity are supported by subtle oak on both bouquet and palate. Still quite youthful, well balanced and again with just a trace of lift. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; sweet, ripe chocolate, cherry and vanilla aromas are followed by a lively chocolate and berry-flavoured palate. A degree of volatile lift isB[ more help than hindrance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Bimbadgen EstateP Three vintages of Chardonnay were available from cellar door on 1998, the oldest being the 1994 vintage, the youngest from 1996.S PastaX 4398Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Bimbadgen Estate Chardonnay Bimbadgen Estate $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Bimbadgen Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1994 Full yellow; developed, honeyed buttery/peachy fruit on the bouquet is followed by a rich, full and soft wine which is more regional than varietal in character but which has plenty of flavour. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Full yellow; developed, honeyed buttery/peachy fruit on the bouquet is followed by a rich, full and soft wine which is more regional than varietal in character but which has plenty of flavour.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Bimbadgen EstateP 15QOAs with the Chardonnay, three vintages were available in 1998 from cellar door.S Stewed oxtailX 4399Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Bimbadgen Estate Shiraz Bimbadgen Estate $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Bimbadgen Estate i[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is ripe, with some of the hay/straw aromas encountered in old-time Hunter Shiraz, together with some gamey/boot polish varietal aromas. The palate is powerful, with more of those gamey/liquorice/boot polish characters together with some chocolate and earth flavours. Striking Shiraz. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is ripe, with some of the hay/straw aromas encountered in old-time Hunter Shiraz, together with some gamey/boot polish varietal aromas. The palate is powerful, with more of those gamey/liquorice/boot polish characters together with some chocolate and earth flavours. Striking Shiraz.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Bloodwood EstateP &So far as I am aware, the last grapes to be harvested in Australia in the years in which the wine is made. 1994 was the previous vintage, with the grapes harvested in July, those for the 97 vintage were picked on June 20. The quality of the wine justifies the patience and faith of the Doyles. Any fruit-based dessertX 4400Y 14/7/98a Orange Riesling (375 ml) Sweet Sweet Z Australia _&Bloodwood Estate Ice Riesling (375 ml) Bloodwood Estate $21-25 14/7/98 6/2/98 Bloodwood Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet shows an exotic mix of tropical peach, apricot and lime fruit; the palate is quite excellent, with intense tropical fruit salad flavours balanced by acidity. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; the bouquet shows an exotic mix of tropical peach, apricot and lime fruit; the palate is quite excellent, with intense tropical fruit salad flavours balanced by acidity. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Bloodwood EstateP A wine which attests to the ability of the Orange region to produce late-ripening red wine styles as handsomely as it does Chardonnay.S Rib of vealX 4401Y 14/7/98a Orange N Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Bloodwood Estate Cabernet Bloodwood Estate $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Bloodwood Estate [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity and fruit-driven with a mix of cassis, olive and herb aromas. The elegant palate shows the cool climate with cassis, mint and olive flavours supported by fine tannins. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity and fruit-driven with a mix of cassis, olive and herb aromas. The elegant palate shows the cool climate with cassis, mint and olive flavours supported by fine tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 CassegrainP 27.95 Top-of-the-range Chardonnay from the Hastings River vineyards, given full-blown winemaking treatment, including the relatively lavish use of new oak. NAU"Stir-fried prawns with cashew nutsX 4402Y 14/7/98a Hastings River Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Cassegrain Reserve Chardonnay Cassegrain $26-50 14/7/98 6/2/98 Cassegrain V[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is driven by strong, spicy/toasty barrel-ferment oak characters, with some more creamy fig and peach fruit. There is more of the same on the palate, with abundant spicy nutmeg oak blending with creamy/figgy/honeyed fruit. If you like oak, you will love the wine. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is driven by strong, spicy/toasty barrel-ferment oak characters, with some more creamy fig and peach fruit. There is more of the same on the palate, with abundant spicy nutmeg oak blending with creamy/figgy/honeyed fruit. If you like oak, you will love the wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Cobaw RidgeP SQrProduced from 2 hectares of estate plantings, and, like all the Cobaw Ridge wines, made and bottled on the estate.S Honey chickenX 4403Y 14/7/98a Macedon Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Cobaw Ridge Chardonnay Cobaw Ridge $21-25 14/7/98 6/2/98 Cobaw Ridge [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; there is rich, sweet peachy fruit on a bouquet with plenty of character, character which builds on the complex, ripe palate with hints of caramel and butterscotch on top of the peachy fruit. A mouthful. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; there is rich, sweet peachy fruit on a bouquet with plenty of character, character which builds on the complex, ripe palate with hints of caramel and butterscotch on top of the peachy fruit. A mouthful.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 DalwhinnieP Produced from 2.4 hectares of estate plantings, and a wine which I tasted without any foreknowledge. It came as a total surprise, and it was only when I subsequently read that it was made by Rick Kinzbrunner (of Giaconda) that the pieces fell into place.S GameX 4404Y 14/7/98a Pyrenees Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Dalwhinnie Pinot Noir Dalwhinnie $26-50 14/7/98 6/2/98 Dalwhinnie G[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; the bouquet is fragrant and extremely stylish, with sappy Pinot and obvious whole-bunch fermentation influences. The palate has excellent varietal character, with sappy, cherry fruit and the barest whiff of mint. A tour de force of winemaking given the origin of the grapes. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is fragrant and extremely stylish, with sappy Pinot and obvious whole-bunch fermentation influences. The palate has excellent varietal character, with sappy, cherry fruit and the barest whiff of mint. A tour de force of winemaking given the origin of the grapes.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 14.95Q Produced from dry-grown grapes from Merv Storton's vineyard in the Eden Valley. Between 1995 and 1997 this wine won a gold and four silver medals at Australian wine shows.S Grilled porkX 4405Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Storton Hill Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Storton Hill Riesling Dorrien Estate $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Dorrien Estate c[4wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet shows developed, toasty honeyed characters in that cross-over phase where one can be unsure whether the wine is Semillon or Riesling; the palate is rich and full, again with toasty honeyed characters predominant and just a hint of lime juice on the finish. Delicious flavour. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet shows developed, toasty honeyed characters in that cross-over phase where one can be unsure whether the wine is Semillon or Riesling; the palate is rich and full, again with toasty honeyed characters predominant and just a hint of lime juice on the finish. Delicious flavour.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 12.90QqFrom the vineyard of Chris and John Goodchild at Kalunga. The wine is barrel-fermented and matured in French oak.S FishX 4406Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley M Goodchild Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Goodchild Chardonnay Dorrien Estate $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Dorrien Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium intensity, quite complex yet in a basically restrained style, with melon and cashew fruit; the palate is light but well made, the fruit just a little herbaceous. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of medium intensity, quite complex yet in a basically restrained style, with melon and cashew fruit; the palate is light but well made, the fruit just a little herbaceous.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 15.95 The Rorhlach family have been growing grapes in the Barossa Valley for 50 years, although doubtless Merlot has been a relatively recent arrival on the scene. The wine is matured in a mix of American and French oak for 18 months; the 96 won a gold medal at Brisbane in 1997. Braised duckX 4407Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Rorhlach Reserve Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Rorhlach Reserve Merlot Dorrien Estate $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Dorrien Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; sweet juicy berry aromas intermingle with quite pronounced oak on the clean bouquet. The oak contribution is again quite prominent on the sweet, ripe redcurrant fruit of the palate. Attractive wine, but not particularly varietal. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; sweet juicy berry aromas intermingle with quite pronounced oak on the clean bouquet. The oak contribution is again quite prominent on the sweet, ripe redcurrant fruit of the palate. Attractive wine, but not particularly varietal.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 24.95 This is the first wine to be produced from Cellarmaster's substantial vineyard at Mount Benson, a new region within the Limestone Coast Zone of South Australia. Cellarmaster has much hope for the vineyard, and has spared no expense in the striking, avant-garde packaging. Mature cheddarX 4408Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Black Wattle Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Black Wattle Cabernet Sauvignon Dorrien Estate $21-25 14/7/98 6/2/98 Dorrien Estate e[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is potent and lively, with a mix of spicy, leafy, briary and cedary aromas. The palate flavours, which are also spicy and leafy, are the indications of a cool vintage in a cool region resulting in grapes which did not fully physiologically ripen. Nonetheless, very interesting. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is potent and lively, with a mix of spicy, leafy, briary and cedary aromas. The palate flavours, which are also spicy and leafy, are the indications of a cool vintage in a cool region resulting in grapes which did not fully physiologically ripen. Nonetheless, very interesting.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 +This wine was made from vines over 50 years of age grown at the Blewitt Springs vineyard and is the first release under the Di Fabio Estate label. Produced from hand-pruned and hand-picked bush vines, the wine spends 18 months in new American oak and was a gold medal winner at the Cowra Wine Show. Beef casseroleX 4409Y 10/7/98a Barossa Valley Di Fabio Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Di Fabio Shiraz Dorrien Estate 10/7/98 6/2/98 Dorrien Estate 2[4wine glasses] 1995 Dense red-purple; the bouquet is voluminous and rich, literally crawling with American oak. The palate, likewise, is front-end-loaded with American oak, but there is wonderfully rich fruit encased within that oak. A style which has particular appeal for some palates. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet is voluminous and rich, literally crawling with American oak. The palate, likewise, is front-end-loaded with American oak, but there is wonderfully rich fruit encased within that oak. A style which has particular appeal for some palates.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Geoff MerrillP As the label attests, drawn entirely from McLaren Vale vineyards, and to this extent different from many of the Geoff Merrill wines which have a multi-regional source. Stainless steel fermented and early bottled in the traditional Semillon style, and all the better for that. King George whitingX 4410Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Premium McLaren Vale Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _+Geoff Merrill Premium McLaren Vale Semillon Geoff Merrill $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Geoff Merrill Q[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows good varietal character with lemon and herb aromas of medium intensity. A well-structured, unforced wine on the palate, with more than sufficient fruit weight to carry its development for many years, while offering enough for immediate consumption. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows good varietal character with lemon and herb aromas of medium intensity. A well-structured, unforced wine on the palate, with more than sufficient fruit weight to carry its development for many years, while offering enough for immediate consumption.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Geoff MerrillP As at 1998, no less than five vintages, from 1991 to 1995, were available under the Reserve label, all priced at $26. There is considerable consistency across all vintages, with oak (and bottle age) the major factors in shaping that style.S Pan-fried chicken breastX 4411Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Geoff Merrill Reserve Chardonnay Geoff Merrill $26-50 14/7/98 6/2/98 Geoff Merrill =[3.5wine glasses] 1993 Full yellow, deep but bright; a rich and complex bouquet, in which the oak is dominant but which succeeds better than the other vintages. The palate is rich, with full peachy fruit and lots of toasty characters, partially bottle-developed, and partially deriving from the oak. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1993 <f"Bembo">Full yellow, deep but bright; a rich and complex bouquet, in which the oak is dominant but which succeeds better than the other vintages. The palate is rich, with full peachy fruit and lots of toasty characters, partially bottle-developed, and partially deriving from the oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Geoff MerrillP Effectively takes over from the wine previously simply labelled Cabernet Sauvignon, sharing with it the multi-regional source and the occasional dash of Cabernet Franc or Merlot. Those sources span Coonawarra, McLaren Vale and the Goulburn Valley. S Rack of lambX 4412Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _(Geoff Merrill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Geoff Merrill $26-50 14/7/98 6/2/98 Geoff Merrill ][4wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; a most attractive bouquet with characters and aromas reminiscent of Bordeaux, with a mix of earthy herbaceous characters at one extreme, and cedar and vanilla at the other. The palate has good weight, flavour and structure, with cedar, cassis and olive flavours, finishing with fine tannins. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a most attractive bouquet with characters and aromas reminiscent of Bordeaux, with a mix of earthy herbaceous characters at one extreme, and cedar and vanilla at the other. The palate has good weight, flavour and structure, with cedar, cassis and olive flavours, finishing with fine tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Geoff MerrillP Drawn from old, dry-grown McLaren Vale Shiraz, and first made in 1994. Something of a departure in style for Geoff Merrill, with far greater fruit weight and ripeness than most of the Geoff Merrill reds.S Kangaroo filletX 4413Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Geoff Merrill Reserve Shiraz Geoff Merrill $26-50 14/7/98 6/2/98 Geoff Merrill [4.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is redolent with ripe, dark cherry and liquorice-accented fruit of medium to full intensity. The palate delivers all of the promise of the bouquet with abundant dark cherry and plum fruit supported by soft tannins. Well-handled oak; good structure and weight, and - notwithstanding all this flavour - keeps the core of elegance of the Merrill style. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is redolent with ripe, dark cherry and liquorice-accented fruit of medium to full intensity. The palate delivers all of the promise of the bouquet with abundant dark cherry and plum fruit supported by soft tannins. Well-handled oak; good structure and weight, and - notwithstanding all this flavour - keeps the core of elegance of the Merrill style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Grant BurgeP dA new super-premium wine from Grant Burge, presented in a custom-made bottle with the Grant Burge seal embossed in the glass. Wine and the church have had a long history together, which is just as well given the name of this wine, and its launch date on 7 June 1998, which was Holy Trinity Sunday. The Trinity in the wine is Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre. Jugged hareX 4414Y 10/7/98a Barossa Valley The Holy Trinity Shiraz Blends Z Australia Grant Burge The Holy Trinity Grant Burge 17.02 10/7/98 6/2/98 Grant Burge /[4wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, smooth, with gently sweet berry aromas of light to medium intensity. An attractive, fruit-driven wine, silky smooth and sweet and not too jammy; the texture is very much akin to that of a Southern Rh ne Valley red. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, smooth, with gently sweet berry aromas of light to medium intensity. An attractive, fruit-driven wine, silky smooth and sweet and not too jammy; the texture is very much akin to that of a Southern Rh ne Valley red.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Helm'sP 16.50 :As the name suggests, a blend of Canberra District-sourced Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In 1996 presented a paradoxical contrast with the flagship The Helm, for the latter seemed far riper yet had only 12 degrees alcohol, the Cabernet Merlot, a finer style, had 13 degrees alcohol. One of those tricks of nature. Calf's liverX 4415Y 14/7/98a Canberra District Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Helm's Cabernet Merlot Helm's $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Helm's [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean but more restrained than The Helm, with earthy berry fruit and subtle oak. A stylish wine on the palate, with blackberry, cassis and chocolate flavours, fine tannins and subtle oak. Well made. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean but more restrained than The Helm, with earthy berry fruit and subtle oak. A stylish wine on the palate, with blackberry, cassis and chocolate flavours, fine tannins and subtle oak. Well made.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Hunter RidgeP 12.95QQCold fermented and early bottled to preserve maximum fruit flavour and freshness.S Kentucky Fried ChickenX 4416Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Hunter Ridge Verdelho Hunter Ridge $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Hunter Ridge [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows soft, tropical fruit salad aromas with mango, peach and passionfruit all present. There is more of the same on the soft, pleasantly fruity palate with its near-dry finish. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows soft, tropical fruit salad aromas with mango, peach and passionfruit all present. There is more of the same on the soft, pleasantly fruity palate with its near-dry finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Katnook EstateP 14.50Q The second label of Katnook which has progressively returned to a 100% Coonawarra fruit base. A wine which frequently offers excellent value for money, as it did in 1997.S MusselsX 4417Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Riddoch Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _&Katnook Estate Riddoch Sauvignon Blanc Katnook Estate $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Katnook Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a clean, authentic, gently ripe gooseberry-accented bouquet introduces a wine which undoubtedly lacks the intensity of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but is positively flavoured and nicely balanced. Won't frighten the horses. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a clean, authentic, gently ripe gooseberry-accented bouquet introduces a wine which undoubtedly lacks the intensity of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but is positively flavoured and nicely balanced. Won't frighten the horses.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 LirralirraP Lirralirra follows a variable roster with its Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, in some vintages presenting both as straight varietals, in other vintages releasing a blend. Doubtless the very low yields in 1997 precipitated the decision to make this wine in that vintage. Lobster bisqueX 4418Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _#Lirralirra Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Lirralirra Estate $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Lirralirra Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a quite potent bouquet with a clean mix of lemony and minerally aromas is followed by a palate with good intensity and weight to the lemon and herb flavours. Well-balanced acidity, and a wine which could age with grace. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a quite potent bouquet with a clean mix of lemony and minerally aromas is followed by a palate with good intensity and weight to the lemon and herb flavours. Well-balanced acidity, and a wine which could age with grace.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 LirralirraP Like so many Yarra Valley producers, Lirralirra produced a striking Pinot Noir in the low-yielding 1996 vintage, the tiny berries producing wines of unusually strong flavour and colour.S Smoked quailX 4419Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Lirralirra Pinot Noir Lirralirra Estate $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Lirralirra Estate /[4wine glasses] 1996 Amazingly deep purple-red; a clean, potent, powerful mint and cherry bouquet is replicated on the strongly flavoured palate. A wine which will appeal more to some than to others, scoring on the strength of its muscle rather than its finesse or varietal definition. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Amazingly deep purple-red; a clean, potent, powerful mint and cherry bouquet is replicated on the strongly flavoured palate. A wine which will appeal more to some than to others, scoring on the strength of its muscle rather than its finesse or varietal definition.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Matilda s MeadowP 17QpA pleasant wine which at once demonstrates the virtues of the region and the limitations of unwooded Chardonnay.S PastaX 4420Y 14/7/98a Great Southern Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Matilda s Meadow Unwooded Chardonnay Matilda s Meadow $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Matilda s Meadow [3wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a light bouquet with quite aromatic citrus and melon fruit is inexorably followed by a pleasant, gently sweet palate which is vaguely soporific. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a light bouquet with quite aromatic citrus and melon fruit is inexorably followed by a pleasant, gently sweet palate which is vaguely soporific.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Meerea ParkP Released under the so-called label introduced in 1996, and which - unlike the wines under the principal label - is a multi-region blend. This wine is in fact a blend of 70% McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon from the Barossa and Hunter Valleys. Twenty-five per cent of the Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in new French oak hogsheads for ten days. The 97 won a silver and three bronze medals in wine shows in 1997. Scallops in white sauceX 4421Y 10/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _$Meerea Park Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Meerea Park 10/7/98 6/2/98 Meerea Park [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft, with ripe sauvignon blanc fruit characters the major component, but with some more herbal notes also present. On the palate, the varietal character is quite evident, and just a hint of oak adding as much to the texture as the flavour. To be hypercritical, flattens off ever so slightly on the finish. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft, with ripe sauvignon blanc fruit characters the major component, but with some more herbal notes also present. On the palate, the varietal character is quite evident, and just a hint of oak adding as much to the texture as the flavour. To be hypercritical, flattens off ever so slightly on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Meerea ParkP Sourced from the Lindsay Hill vineyard situated in the Upper Hunter, adjacent to Rosemount's Roxburgh Vineyard. Sixty per cent of the wine is cold-fermented in stainless steel; the remaining 40% fermented in new Allier and Vosges hogsheads for three weeks. Caesar saladX 4422Y 10/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Lindsay Hill Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _!Meerea Park Lindsay Hill Verdelho Meerea Park 10/7/98 6/2/98 Meerea Park *[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the touch of oak is quite evident on the bouquet but well integrated with the herbal fruit. The palate attests to the winemaking skills with a hint of spicy oak and a long, crisp finish. Not the usual tutti frutti Verdelho by any means. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the touch of oak is quite evident on the bouquet but well integrated with the herbal fruit. The palate attests to the winemaking skills with a hint of spicy oak and a long, crisp finish. Not the usual tutti frutti Verdelho by any means.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Meerea ParkP Produced from Hunter Valley grapes, predominantly from the Upper Hunter. It is barrel-fermented in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak hogsheads, and spends eight months on yeast lees, with a naturally occurring malolactic fermentation.S AvocadoX 4423Y 10/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Meerea Park Chardonnay Meerea Park 10/7/98 6/2/98 Meerea Park /[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with lemony/charry oak evident but not overly assertive. The palate is well constructed and balanced; while not particularly rich, has attractive peachy citrussy flavours providing length and grip. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity with lemony/charry oak evident but not overly assertive. The palate is well constructed and balanced; while not particularly rich, has attractive peachy citrussy flavours providing length and grip.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Meerea ParkP QReleased under the Art label, and a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot grown in the Hunter Valley, Mudgee and Orange regions. The wine is given two weeks post-fermentation maceration, and matured in a mix of new and used American oak barrels. Won a gold, three silver and two bronze medals in capital city wine shows in 1997. Washed rind cheeseX 4424Y 10/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Meerea Park Cabernet Merlot Meerea Park 10/7/98 6/2/98 Meerea Park 4[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and smooth, with gently sweet ripe berry fruit of medium intensity. The palate, likewise of medium weight, is well balanced and composed, with a mix of berry, mint, leaf and earth flavours. The oak influence is subtle throughout. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean and smooth, with gently sweet ripe berry fruit of medium intensity. The palate, likewise of medium weight, is well balanced and composed, with a mix of berry, mint, leaf and earth flavours. The oak influence is subtle throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Moondah BrookP 17.99Q The back label is equivocal about the regional sources used to make this wine, but it is a fair bet they extend south. Whatever be the answer, a wine which shows the customary Moondah Brook flair.S Spiced lambX 4425Y 14/7/98a Swan District Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Moondah Brook Shiraz Moondah Brook $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Moondah Brook [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet unfolds chocolate and earth initially, then hints of leather followed by touches of spice; on the palate, chocolatey flavours come to the fore, supported by pleasant berry notes and utterly appropriate oak. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet unfolds chocolate and earth initially, then hints of leather followed by touches of spice; on the palate, chocolatey flavours come to the fore, supported by pleasant berry notes and utterly appropriate oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Mount HorrocksP 15.50Q I suspect this wine replaces the former Semillon Sauvignon Blanc. Certainly, it is made in a similar fashion, fermented and then matured in French oak barriques for six months on yeast lees. An outstanding success in 1997.S Pan-fried fishX 4427Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Mount Horrocks Semillon Mount Horrocks $11-15 14/7/98 6/2/98 Mount Horrocks >[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, but the fruit has soaked up the oak, and one suspects that only a fraction of it was new. On the palate, a tangy and stylish wine, with the extremely successful use of oak adding greatly to the texture without taking away the fruit. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, but the fruit has soaked up the oak, and one suspects that only a fraction of it was new. On the palate, a tangy and stylish wine, with the extremely successful use of oak adding greatly to the texture without taking away the fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Penley EstateP wNo region of origin claim is made on the front label, and the back label is equivocal as to its origin, contenting itself with saying that the wine is made from grapes grown on selected vineyard sites. Part, presumably, comes from the 5 hectares of Coonawarra chardonnay owned by Penley Estate. The wine is barrel-fermented, and 20% is taken through malolactic fermentation. Yakitori chickenX 4428Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Penley Estate Chardonnay Penley Estate $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Penley Estate R[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a restrained bouquet with subtle fruit and oak providing an interplay between mineral, nectarine and cashew aromas. The palate is in similar restrained style, with nutty cashew flavours from the partial malolactic fermentation providing much of the flavour. Overall, harmonious. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a restrained bouquet with subtle fruit and oak providing an interplay between mineral, nectarine and cashew aromas. The palate is in similar restrained style, with nutty cashew flavours from the partial malolactic fermentation providing much of the flavour. Overall, harmonious.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 ProvidenceP Particularly when tasted in the company of mainland-grown Chardonnays, shrieks its cool-climate origins, but in a far from unattractive fashion.S NAU ShellfishX 4429Y 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Providence Chardonnay Providence Vineyards $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Providence Vineyards [3wine glasses] 1996 Light yellow-green; intense floral frangipani/blossom cool-grown aromas on the bouquet are followed by a lively, citrussy herbaceous palate which challenges conventional notions about the taste of Chardonnay, but which is well made. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; intense floral frangipani/blossom cool-grown aromas on the bouquet are followed by a lively, citrussy herbaceous palate which challenges conventional notions about the taste of Chardonnay, but which is well made.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 ProvidenceP 20QKThe 96 was an exceptional achievement for a difficult vintage in Tasmania.S Tasmanian venisonX 4430Y 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Providence Pinot Noir Providence Vineyards $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Providence Vineyards )[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple, still bright; the bouquet shows excellent varietal character with solid plummy/foresty fruit, and there is more of the same on the powerful palate. Plummy/foresty flavours are there in abundance; the texture is, perhaps, fractionally hard. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple, still bright; the bouquet shows excellent varietal character with solid plummy/foresty fruit, and there is more of the same on the powerful palate. Plummy/foresty flavours are there in abundance; the texture is, perhaps, fractionally hard.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 SmithbrookP 22.50Q Has replaced Pinot Noir on the product roster and perhaps for good reason. A pleasant wine, though not in the same class as the varietal Merlot which sits alongside it. S Yearling steakX 4431Y 14/7/98a Pemberton Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Smithbrook Cabernet Merlot Smithbrook $21-25 14/7/98 6/2/98 Smithbrook [3wine glasses] 1995 Medium red; the bouquet is soft, with cedar, vanilla, chocolate and berry aromas intermingling. The palate is more earthy, lacking the richness of the Merlot, and with a fractionally green finish. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is soft, with cedar, vanilla, chocolate and berry aromas intermingling. The palate is more earthy, lacking the richness of the Merlot, and with a fractionally green finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 SorrenbergP Carries with it the almost forbidding strength and earthy undertone of all of the Sorrenberg wines, but, equally, has the individuality and character which they all display.S Smoked haddockX 4432Y 14/7/98a Ovens Valley Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _#Sorrenberg Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Sorrenberg $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Sorrenberg +[3wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; a solid bouquet with minerally/earthy characters, and relatively low fruit aroma. The wine has good fruit weight on the forepalate, and is clean and well balanced, although it does toughen up fractionally on the finish. Likely to age well. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a solid bouquet with minerally/earthy characters, and relatively low fruit aroma. The wine has good fruit weight on the forepalate, and is clean and well balanced, although it does toughen up fractionally on the finish. Likely to age well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 SorrenbergP pQxA blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 15% Merlot. Here the tendency to firmness works rather better.S Lamb chopsX 4433Y 14/7/98a Ovens Valley Cabernet Merlot Franc Cabernet Blends Z Australia _ Sorrenberg Cabernet Merlot Franc Sorrenberg $21-25 14/7/98 6/2/98 Sorrenberg [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red; the bouquet shows a mix of leafy, minty and more earthy overtones; the palate ranges through firm herbaceous/olive flavours into some attractive red fruits; subtle oak. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet shows a mix of leafy, minty and more earthy overtones; the palate ranges through firm herbaceous/olive flavours into some attractive red fruits; subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 TamburlaineP As the name suggests, the top-of-the-range Chardonnay release from Tamburlaine. Whether this much American oak is a good thing with Chardonnay is a matter of personal opinion.S Pork chopsX 4434Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley The Chapel Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _)Tamburlaine The Chapel Reserve Chardonnay Tamburlaine $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Tamburlaine =[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Full yellow-green, already advanced for its age. The bouquet opens with pungent, potent American oak which tends to initially swamp the fruit, but it fights back on a potent peach and vanilla palate, finishing with zingy acid. Whatever else, not short on flavour or character. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Full yellow-green, already advanced for its age. The bouquet opens with pungent, potent American oak which tends to initially swamp the fruit, but it fights back on a potent peach and vanilla palate, finishing with zingy acid. Whatever else, not short on flavour or character.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 TamburlaineP A blend of grapes grown in the Lower Hunter Valley and Orange, also released onto the market in the year of its vintage. They certainly move things through at Tamburlaine.S Marinated beefX 4435Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Cabernet Merlot Malbec Cabernet Blends Z Australia _"Tamburlaine Cabernet Merlot Malbec Tamburlaine $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Tamburlaine [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full red-purple; a clean, fresh, juicy bouquet with light cherry fruit is followed by a crisp, juicy berry palate, finishing with quite pronounced crisp acid. A white wine drinker's red wine. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a clean, fresh, juicy bouquet with light cherry fruit is followed by a crisp, juicy berry palate, finishing with quite pronounced crisp acid. A white wine drinker's red wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Wandin Valley EstateP 16QuMade in a no-frills unoaked style, in the wet 1997 vintage with only 10 degrees alcohol, but none the worse for that.S Hawkesbury oystersX 4436Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Wandin Valley Estate Semillon Wandin Valley Estate $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Wandin Valley Estate /[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a firm bouquet with good varietal character showing herbaceous citrus and mineral aromas of medium intensity. The palate is firm, with some faintly biscuity/toasty notes which marginally detract; pronounced crisp acid on the finish. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a firm bouquet with good varietal character showing herbaceous citrus and mineral aromas of medium intensity. The palate is firm, with some faintly biscuity/toasty notes which marginally detract; pronounced crisp acid on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Wandin Valley EstateP Whether James and Phillipa Daverne's granddaughter came first, I am not sure, but I suspect the wine was named in her honour. Whatever be the answer, a most attractive wine.S Moroccan lambX 4437Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Bridie Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _$Wandin Valley Estate Bridie s Shiraz Wandin Valley Estate $21-25 14/7/98 6/2/98 Wandin Valley Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a spotlessly clean bouquet of medium intensity, with cherry, vanilla and plum aromas leads into a wine which is ever so slightly on the oaky side, but has nice flavour and balance, with hints of spice, black cherry and plum. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a spotlessly clean bouquet of medium intensity, with cherry, vanilla and plum aromas leads into a wine which is ever so slightly on the oaky side, but has nice flavour and balance, with hints of spice, black cherry and plum.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 uN WillespieP 19.50 Estate-grown, and produced from a total of over 6 hectares of plantings of the two varieties. Made in straightforward, unwooded-style.S NAU ShellfishX 4438Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _"Willespie Semillon Sauvignon Blanc c Willespie $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 % Willespie [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a crisp, fresh bouquet with tangy herb and grass aromas is followed by a long, clean palate with some minerally notes adding to its structure, yet retaining a certain delicacy. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a crisp, fresh bouquet with tangy herb and grass aromas is followed by a long, clean palate with some minerally notes adding to its structure, yet retaining a certain delicacy.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 vN WillespieP As with all the Willespie wines, estate-grown, produced from 4 hectares of plantings. Made in the austere end of the Margaret River spectrum, but certainly very typical.S Butterfly leg of lambX 4439Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Willespie Cabernet Sauvignon c Willespie $21-25 14/7/98 6/2/98 % Willespie [[4wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with quite powerful blackberry and earth varietal fruit; subtle oak. The powerful and slightly austere palate has blackberry, earth and chocolate flavours on the mid-palate before moving through to a cedary/briary finish supported by quite persistent tannins. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with quite powerful blackberry and earth varietal fruit; subtle oak. The powerful and slightly austere palate has blackberry, earth and chocolate flavours on the mid-palate before moving through to a cedary/briary finish supported by quite persistent tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 YanwirraP 18.50Q A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 15% Merlot which spends 16 months in Allier oak, but which does not show it.S Saute d vealX 4440Y 14/7/98a Great Southern Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Yanwirra Cabernet Merlot Yanwirra $16-20 14/7/98 6/2/98 Yanwirra [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity, with a range of leafy/minty/earthy aromas. The palate has soaked up the oak, and tends herbaceous, with some minty flavours, and an overall crisp (arguably too crisp) mouthfeel. RATING: 78 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is clean, of light to medium intensity, with a range of leafy/minty/earthy aromas. The palate has soaked up the oak, and tends herbaceous, with some minty flavours, and an overall crisp (arguably too crisp) mouthfeel.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">78 Nepenthe VineyardsP Takes its grapes from 5 hectares of estate plantings. Expansive but skilled use of high-quality French oak and utilisation of all the winemaking techniques for Chardonnay has had the desired result.S Chinese steamed fishX 4442Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Nepenthe Vineyards Chardonnay Nepenthe Vineyards $26-50 14/7/98 12/2/98 Nepenthe Vineyards G[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the aromas ripple through melon and citrus to cashew and toast, with the oak influence subtle throughout. The palate is quite elegant and tight, with the sensitive use of barrel-ferment characters giving a mix of creamy cashew characters to the core of melon fruit. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the aromas ripple through melon and citrus to cashew and toast, with the oak influence subtle throughout. The palate is quite elegant and tight, with the sensitive use of barrel-ferment characters giving a mix of creamy cashew characters to the core of melon fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Nepenthe VineyardsP yQOLike the Nepenthe Chardonnay, shows the skilled use of high-quality French oak.S ed vealX 4443Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Nepenthe Vineyards Semillon Nepenthe Vineyards $21-25 14/7/98 12/2/98 Nepenthe Vineyards 9[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium green-yellow; the fruit, with intriguing hints of gooseberry, is surrounded with well-balanced and integrated spicy oak. The palate is highly sophisticated, with passionfruit overtones to the fruit threaded through delicately spicy oak. Utterly seductive. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; the fruit, with intriguing hints of gooseberry, is surrounded with well-balanced and integrated spicy oak. The palate is highly sophisticated, with passionfruit overtones to the fruit threaded through delicately spicy oak. Utterly seductive. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Fairhall Downs EstateP 13.75 1Draws upon 10 hectares of estate sauvignon blanc and 2.25 hectares of estate semillon; it represents only a small part of the vineyard output. Cold fermented in stainless steel, the wine has 4% Semillon included to add structure. A 20-day spread in harvest dates is also used to maximise fruit complexity. TempuraX 4444Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _%Fairhall Downs Estate Sauvignon Blanc Fairhall Downs Estate $11-15 14/7/98 13/2/98 Fairhall Downs Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a clean bouquet with a most attractive mix of passionfruit, gooseberry and nectarine aromas is followed by a well-balanced, fresh palate with a similar spread of flavours to the bouquet. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a clean bouquet with a most attractive mix of passionfruit, gooseberry and nectarine aromas is followed by a well-balanced, fresh palate with a similar spread of flavours to the bouquet.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Ashwell VineyardsP 17.50QLProduced from 1 hectare of estate plantings, and made in a ripe, lush style.S Prawns with gingerX 4445Y 14/7/98a Wairarapa Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _!Ashwell Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Ashwell Vineyards $16-20 14/7/98 13/2/98 Ashwell Vineyards [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; rich, ripe tropical gooseberry fruit aromas are repeated on similarly ripe, slightly soft, gooseberry-accented palate. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; rich, ripe tropical gooseberry fruit aromas are repeated on similarly ripe, slightly soft, gooseberry-accented palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 ChancellorP Labelled simply Sauvignon which some argue is the correct nomenclature. Produced from 5 hectares of estate plantings, and made in direct style from vines which are now fully mature.S OystersX 4446Y 14/7/98a Canterbury Waipara N Sauvignon White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Chancellor Waipara Sauvignon Chancellor Wines of Waipara $11-15 14/7/98 13/2/98 Chancellor Wines of Waipara [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp, with herbal/asparagus/capsicum aromas; the palate is lively, with minerally rather than fleshy structure and flavour, finishing with fresh acidity. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp, with herbal/asparagus/capsicum aromas; the palate is lively, with minerally rather than fleshy structure and flavour, finishing with fresh acidity. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 ChancellorP Like the Sauvignon, comes from the original plantings established in 1982, and which are now mature. A most interesting wine which demonstrates that with appropriate site selection, the Waipara/Canterbury region can produce ripe cabernet flavours.S Lamb shanksX 4447Y 14/7/98a Canterbury Waipara Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _%Chancellor Waipara Cabernet Sauvignon Chancellor Wines of Waipara $21-25 14/7/98 13/2/98 Chancellor Wines of Waipara [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet has ample fresh red berry/earthy fruit with subtle oak; the palate flavours run through herb, olive and red berry, and while firm, are not green, and the overall structure of the wine is good. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet has ample fresh red berry/earthy fruit with subtle oak; the palate flavours run through herb, olive and red berry, and while firm, are not green, and the overall structure of the wine is good.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Gibbston ValleyP 18.50 Right from the outset, Gibbston Valley has not hesitated to venture outside the confines of Central Otago to supplement its wine intake. In four vintages since 1992 it has made a Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough grapes, wines which have won four gold, two silver and two bronze medals in New Zealand wine shows, the most recent success going to the 97 which won a gold medal at the 1997 Liquorland Top 100 Wine Competition. 97U WhitebaitX 4448Y 14/7/98a Otago Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _+Gibbston Valley Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Gibbston Valley $16-20 14/7/98 13/2/98 Gibbston Valley [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is intense, with rich, sweet tropical/gooseberry fruit; a rich, mouthfilling and ripe wine on the palate, clean and very well made, and which does not cloy on the finish. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is intense, with rich, sweet tropical/gooseberry fruit; a rich, mouthfilling and ripe wine on the palate, clean and very well made, and which does not cloy on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Gibbston ValleyP Pinot gris was one of the first plantings at Gibbston Valley in 1981, and tiny quantities have been made and released by Gibbston Valley in every vintage other than 1996. Increased plantings will see increased production in the future, as there are now 4 hectares coming into bearing. Poached salmonX 4449Y 14/7/98a Otago Central Otago Pinot Gris White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand _(Gibbston Valley Central Otago Pinot Gris Gibbston Valley $16-20 14/7/98 13/2/98 Gibbston Valley [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is very floral, with spicy pear aromas, and the palate has considerable fruit flavour and intensity, again showing ripe pear flavours. Well balanced. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is very floral, with spicy pear aromas, and the palate has considerable fruit flavour and intensity, again showing ripe pear flavours. Well balanced. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Gibbston ValleyP cCalifornian-trained winemaker Grant Taylor came to Gibbston Valley in 1993, but has since returned to Oregon for the 1995 and 1996 vintages, and to Domaine Dujac in Burgundy for the 97 vintage. Two vintages a year working with Pinot Noir attest to Taylor's passion; the Reserve Pinots from Gibbston Valley attest to his skill. They are outstanding wines. VenisonX 4450Y 14/7/98a Otago Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _"Gibbston Valley Reserve Pinot Noir Gibbston Valley $26-50 14/7/98 13/2/98 Gibbston Valley &[5wine glasses] 1996 Excellent, strong red-purple; the bouquet is redolent with ripe, rich and sweet plummy/cherry fruit, yet avoids Portiness. A powerful wine on the palate, with outstanding structure, length and mouthfeel. Gold medal at the 1997 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. RATING: 96 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Excellent, strong red-purple; the bouquet is redolent with ripe, rich and sweet plummy/cherry fruit, yet avoids Portiness. A powerful wine on the palate, with outstanding structure, length and mouthfeel. Gold medal at the 1997 Air New Zealand Wine Awards.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">96 Kim CrawfordP 16.95 nProduced from grapes grown in Marlborough's Awatere Valley, emanating from low-yielding vines. Straightforward cold fermentation in stainless steel and early-bottling followed, the wine quality coming principally from the vineyard selection, and partly from the choice of yeast strain. Gold medal winner and Top 100 NZ Liquorland International Wine Competition 1997. Salmon terrineX 4451Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _(Kim Crawford Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Kim Crawford Wines $16-20 14/7/98 13/2/98 Kim Crawford Wines }[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium straw-green; the bouquet has both depth and complexity, with ripe gooseberry aromas dominant, but with hints of herb and capsicum. The palate is textured, with an array of flavours, starting with gooseberry, then some hints of lime and passionfruit, finally extending into white peach. A user-friendly wine in every respect. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium straw-green; the bouquet has both depth and complexity, with ripe gooseberry aromas dominant, but with hints of herb and capsicum. The palate is textured, with an array of flavours, starting with gooseberry, then some hints of lime and passionfruit, finally extending into white peach. A user-friendly wine in every respect.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Kim CrawfordP 26.95 +An extremely rich and complex oaked style of Sauvignon Blanc. Fifty per cent of the wine is barrel-fermented, lees aged and undergoes malolactic fermentation, with ten months maturation in new American oak. The remaining 50% is tank fermented and held in stainless steel until blending and bottling. Seafood chowderX 4452Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Awatere N Sauvignon White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Kim Crawford Awatere Sauvignon Kim Crawford Wines $26-50 14/7/98 13/2/98 Kim Crawford Wines 4[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; ripe gooseberry fruit is interwoven with strong toasty spicy oak on the bouquet; the palate is more fruit than barrel-ferment driven with textural complexity, and the oak spice being most evident on the finish of the wine. Lively and flavoursome. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; ripe gooseberry fruit is interwoven with strong toasty spicy oak on the bouquet; the palate is more fruit than barrel-ferment driven with textural complexity, and the oak spice being most evident on the finish of the wine. Lively and flavoursome.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Kim CrawfordP 16.95 #Produced from a single vineyard in Marlborough's cooler Omaka Valley region, and picked with very high levels of natural acidity. Taken through 100% malolactic fermentation in tank before stabilisation and bottling. Has greater structure and texture than most Australian unoaked Chardonnays. Chinese prawnsX 4453Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Marlborough Unoaked Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _+Kim Crawford Marlborough Unoaked Chardonnay Kim Crawford Wines $16-20 14/7/98 13/2/98 Kim Crawford Wines ^[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; delicate, fresh nectarine and peach fruit, with just a hint of cashew/hazel nut from the malolactic fermentation on the bouquet. The palate is very fresh and lively, with pure nectarine, peach and citrus fruit, and, once again, a happily subtle touch from the malolactic component. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; delicate, fresh nectarine and peach fruit, with just a hint of cashew/hazel nut from the malolactic fermentation on the bouquet. The palate is very fresh and lively, with pure nectarine, peach and citrus fruit, and, once again, a happily subtle touch from the malolactic component.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Moutere HillsP 14.50 Made from contract-grown grapes sourced from the Waimea Plains in the Richmond subdistrict. A silver medal in 1997 at the Christchurch Wine Show.S Scallops and gingerX 4454Y 14/7/98a Nelson Nelson Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Moutere Hills Nelson Riesling Moutere Hills Vineyard $11-15 14/7/98 17/2/98 Moutere Hills Vineyard e[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; there is a range of aromas running from minerally to spicy, with faintly dusty overtones, but which are clean and show no botrytis influence. The wine has considerable mouthfeel and weight, with the intelligent use of residual sugar to give an almost creamy feel, without compromising the balance. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; there is a range of aromas running from minerally to spicy, with faintly dusty overtones, but which are clean and show no botrytis influence. The wine has considerable mouthfeel and weight, with the intelligent use of residual sugar to give an almost creamy feel, without compromising the balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Moutere HillsP Sourced from just under half a hectare of estate plantings, and partly fermented and matured in French oak barriques. Notwithstanding the label name, shows only slight oak influence. S RatatouilleX 4455Y 14/7/98a Nelson Barrique Fermented Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _0Moutere Hills Barrique Fermented Sauvignon Blanc Moutere Hills Vineyard $16-20 14/7/98 17/2/98 Moutere Hills Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is ever so faintly sweaty, with passionfruit/tropical aromas, and in the mouth has that softer profile which is so much the mark of Nelson: gentle tropical fruit with hints of lingering sweetness. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is ever so faintly sweaty, with passionfruit/tropical aromas, and in the mouth has that softer profile which is so much the mark of Nelson: gentle tropical fruit with hints of lingering sweetness.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Palliser EstateP Every now and then New Zealand bobs up with a botrytised Chardonnay; Hunter's have done so with distinction from time to time and now Palliser has done so.S Fruit tartX 4456Y 10/7/98a Wairarapa Noble Chardonnay (375 ml) Sweet Sweet New Zealand _)Palliser Estate Noble Chardonnay (375 ml) Palliser Estate 10/7/98 18/2/98 Palliser Estate L[4wine glasses] 1997 Glowing yellow-green; a super-intense bouquet with an exotic array of lime apricot and peach fruit aromas is followed by a palate which is much less powerful and intense than the bouquet. There is plenty of tasty tropical fruit, however, and the acid is relatively soft, which may please some. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; a super-intense bouquet with an exotic array of lime apricot and peach fruit aromas is followed by a palate which is much less powerful and intense than the bouquet. There is plenty of tasty tropical fruit, however, and the acid is relatively soft, which may please some.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Seresin EstateP 18.90 To say sophisticated winemaking techniques have been used with what might seem a straightforward wine style is a masterly understatement. The wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (93%) and Semillon (7%), with the sauvignon blanc picked over an eight day period. Fourteen per cent of the wine was barrel-fermented and lees aged in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak barriques. Part of the remaining wine was fermented using cultured yeasts, part relying upon indigenous yeast. If this were nB ot enough, a small component of the barrel-fermented portion underwent malolactic fermentation. All this, and yet the end result is a wine in which Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, rather than winemaker's tricks, does the talking. Steamed crabX 4457Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Seresin Estate Sauvignon Blanc Seresin Estate $16-20 14/7/98 18/2/98 Seresin Estate h[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium green-yellow; a crisp and clean bouquet with a mix of asparagus, herb, mineral and a hint of gooseberry all make their mark is followed by a lively, flavoursome palate with textural complexity deriving from the barrel-ferment component, yet with no appreciable oak flavour. Very much a case of less being better. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium green-yellow; a crisp and clean bouquet with a mix of asparagus, herb, mineral and a hint of gooseberry all make their mark is followed by a lively, flavoursome palate with textural complexity deriving from the barrel-ferment component, yet with no appreciable oak flavour. Very much a case of less being better.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Seresin EstateP 19.90 As with all the Seresin Estate wines, a complex range of winemaking techniques are used to handle the estate-grown fruit. Forty per cent is barrel-fermented in French oak barriques, the remainder fermented in a large French oak vat. Part is fermented using cultured yeast, part using indigenous yeast; 70% is taken through malolactic fermentation, and all of the wine given extended lees contact. SweetbreadsX 4458Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Seresin Estate Chardonnay Seresin Estate $16-20 14/7/98 18/2/98 Seresin Estate n[4wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet showing the sophisticated use of barrel ferment and malolactic ferment influences well integrated with fig, cashew and melon fruit; very stylish. The palate is perhaps just a fraction light on, but is immaculately balanced, reflecting all of the flavours promised by the bouquet. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a complex bouquet showing the sophisticated use of barrel ferment and malolactic ferment influences well integrated with fig, cashew and melon fruit; very stylish. The palate is perhaps just a fraction light on, but is immaculately balanced, reflecting all of the flavours promised by the bouquet.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Seresin EstateP 25.90 The best of the estate-grown grapes are selected for the Reserve programme; the wine is barrel-fermented in 100% new French oak barriques, and is all taken through malolactic fermentation, with the usual lees contact and stirring.S Corn-fed chickenX 4459Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Chardonnay Reserve White Chardonnay New Zealand _!Seresin Estate Chardonnay Reserve Seresin Estate $21-25 14/7/98 18/2/98 Seresin Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; an extremely complex, full-on bouquet with cashew/hazelnut malolactic and barrel-ferment aromas; there is a cavalcade of nutty, figgy and toasty flavours on the palate which seem to build power and presence on the finish. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; an extremely complex, full-on bouquet with cashew/hazelnut malolactic and barrel-ferment aromas; there is a cavalcade of nutty, figgy and toasty flavours on the palate which seem to build power and presence on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Trinity HillP 13.95Q A one-off release from 1997. The grapes were hand-picked, trucked to Hawke s Bay from the Wairarapa region and whole-bunch pressed. It is ironic that it should be one of the best, if not the best, of the 96 and 97 vintage wines from Trinity Hill.S Japanese Nori rollsX 4460Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay M Wairarapa Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Trinity Hill Wairarapa Riesling Trinity Hill $11-15 14/7/98 18/2/98 Trinity Hill [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; an extremely fragrant bouquet with rich lime blossom and passionfruit aromas. The long palate replicates those flavours finishing with acidity (rather than the flick of residual sugar) uppermost. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; an extremely fragrant bouquet with rich lime blossom and passionfruit aromas. The long palate replicates those flavours finishing with acidity (rather than the flick of residual sugar) uppermost. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Trinity HillP 15.95 1The Shepherds Croft Vineyard, belonging to Jeff and Judy Whittaker, is situated in the cool Ngatarawa area, with light alluvial soils over deep river shingle. It produces one of the lighter styles of Sauvignon Blanc from Hawke s Bay, tending more to that of Marlborough in all except the warmest vintages. CrabX 4461Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Shepherds Croft Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _,Trinity Hill Shepherds Croft Sauvignon Blanc Trinity Hill $11-15 14/7/98 18/2/98 Trinity Hill [4wine glasses] 1997 Bright, light green-yellow; a light, spotlessly clean and crisp bouquet is followed on a crisp, clean palate with a mix of tangy citrus and gooseberry flavours which build on the back palate. Overall, in restrained style. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright, light green-yellow; a light, spotlessly clean and crisp bouquet is followed on a crisp, clean palate with a mix of tangy citrus and gooseberry flavours which build on the back palate. Overall, in restrained style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Trinity HillP 17.95 Like the Riesling, a one-off wine from the 1997 vintage, made simply because some high-quality fruit from a vineyard near Masterton became available. John Hancock says that Trinity Hill is a Hawke's Bay operation and that's where all of its wines will come from in the future. Smoked eelX 4462Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay M Wairarapa Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _!Trinity Hill Wairarapa Chardonnay Trinity Hill $16-20 14/7/98 18/2/98 Trinity Hill B[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; citrussy, slightly herbaceous, fruit aromas are supported by subtle oak and a hint of nutty malolactic fermentation character on the clean bouquet. The lively, tangy citrus and melon fruit of the palate are similarly supported by a hint of cashew and subtle oak. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; citrussy, slightly herbaceous, fruit aromas are supported by subtle oak and a hint of nutty malolactic fermentation character on the clean bouquet. The lively, tangy citrus and melon fruit of the palate are similarly supported by a hint of cashew and subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Trinity HillP 22.95 pWhile Trinity Hill has three distinct areas within Hawke's Bay Gimblett Road, Ngatarawa and Te Awanga the majority of the initial releases came from the Shepherds Croft Vineyard at Ngatarawa. Seventy-five per cent of the wine is barrel-fermented, and given the usual lees contact, although it is not easy to tell how much was taken through malolactic fermentation. TunaX 4463Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Shepherds Croft Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _'Trinity Hill Shepherds Croft Chardonnay Trinity Hill $21-25 14/7/98 18/2/98 Trinity Hill [4wine glasses] 1996 Glowing yellow-green; a stylish bouquet with spicy nutmeg oak leads into a lively wine with citrus, herb and melon flavours, finishing with bright acidity. Restrained malolactic influence throughout. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; a stylish bouquet with spicy nutmeg oak leads into a lively wine with citrus, herb and melon flavours, finishing with bright acidity. Restrained malolactic influence throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Trinity HillP 22.95Q An unusual blend, to say the least, but reflecting the fact that the Shepherds Croft Vineyard is a little too cool for cabernet sauvignon, which is grown at Gimblett Road. S Rack of vealX 4464Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Shepherds Croft Shiraz Merlot Cabernet Franc Shiraz Blends New Zealand _9Trinity Hill Shepherds Croft Shiraz Merlot Cabernet Franc Trinity Hill $21-25 14/7/98 18/2/98 Trinity Hill [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a clean bouquet of moderate intensity with cedary/leafy aromas is followed by an elegant palate with similar slightly herbaceous flavours. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a clean bouquet of moderate intensity with cedary/leafy aromas is followed by an elegant palate with similar slightly herbaceous flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Angove While I have reservations about the name Classic Reserve for a wine which is Angove's stock-in-trade basic and modestly priced varietal range, Angove's has a habit of coming up with workmanlike wines. More often it is the whites which shine; in 1996 it was the turn of the Shiraz. Simple red meat dishesX 4465Y 14/7/98a Riverland Classic Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Angove s Classic Reserve Shiraz Angove e under $10 14/7/98 18/2/98 Angove [3wine glasses] 1996 Bright red-purple; soft cherry, hints of caramel and mint aromas are followed by a soft, sweet berry fruit and vanilla oak-flavoured palate. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright red-purple; soft cherry, hints of caramel and mint aromas are followed by a soft, sweet berry fruit and vanilla oak-flavoured palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Boston BayP 12QEComes from 0.8 hectares of estate plantings, made in tiny quantities.S King George whitingX 4466Y 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Boston Bay Riesling Boston Bay Wines $11-15 14/7/98 18/2/98 Boston Bay Wines [3wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; a clean, lively and quite tight lemony bouquet is followed by a minerally/spicy/stony palate, clean although not particularly fruity. Classic food style. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; a clean, lively and quite tight lemony bouquet is followed by a minerally/spicy/stony palate, clean although not particularly fruity. Classic food style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Boston BayP The wine is barrel-fermented in a mix of two-year-old French and American oak, given seven months lees contact, and 25% is taken through malolactic fermentation. Sophisticated winemaking for a relatively light fruit base, which very nearly succeeds.S Simple seafood dishesX 4467Y 10/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Boston Bay Chardonnay Boston Bay Wines 10/7/98 18/2/98 Boston Bay Wines 7[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows some complexity with a range of secondary, nutty aromas and subtle oak, although not a great depth of fruit. The palate follows down the same track, with pleasant, light melon and cashew flavours; a touch of fresher oak might help. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows some complexity with a range of secondary, nutty aromas and subtle oak, although not a great depth of fruit. The palate follows down the same track, with pleasant, light melon and cashew flavours; a touch of fresher oak might help.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Chateau LeamonP 18Q?Produced from 30-year-old vines grown on the Big Hill Vineyard.S Deep-fried quailX 4468Y 14/7/98a Bendigo Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Chateau Leamon Shiraz Chateau Leamon $16-20 14/7/98 18/2/98 Chateau Leamon R[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red, with just a touch of purple; while only light to medium intensity, the bouquet is quite fragrant, with an appealing mix of leaf, cedar, mint and spice. The palate is similarly multiflavoured with spice (sweet, rather than peppery) to the fore; by no means a heavyweight, but flavoursome. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red, with just a touch of purple; while only light to medium intensity, the bouquet is quite fragrant, with an appealing mix of leaf, cedar, mint and spice. The palate is similarly multiflavoured with spice (sweet, rather than peppery) to the fore; by no means a heavyweight, but flavoursome.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 CofieldP Stands out as the best of the 96 red wine releases from Cofield, and a good wine by any standards. Estate-grown, with the vineyard utilising the Scott Henry trellis system which simultaneously increases yield and ripeness. S Marinated beefX 4469Y 14/7/98a Rutherglen Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Cofield Shiraz Cofield $11-15 14/7/98 18/2/98 Cofield Y[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid and full with dark berry fruit complexed by hints of liquorice and leather. The palate is in full-on Rutherglen style, but not extractive or excessively tannic; rich and powerful dark chocolate, blackberry and liquorice fruit flavours are there in abundance. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid and full with dark berry fruit complexed by hints of liquorice and leather. The palate is in full-on Rutherglen style, but not extractive or excessively tannic; rich and powerful dark chocolate, blackberry and liquorice fruit flavours are there in abundance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 CofieldP 14QGEstate-grown; a relatively rare varietal wine in the Rutherglen region.S VegetarianX 4470Y 14/7/98a Rutherglen Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Cofield Merlot Cofield $11-15 14/7/98 18/2/98 Cofield ][3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet shows authentic Merlot varietal aromas with a mix of spicy and more earthy characters; light to medium intensity. The palate replicates the bouquet, with a range of cedary/leafy/minty flavours, authentic to the variety. How much you like all of this is another matter. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet shows authentic Merlot varietal aromas with a mix of spicy and more earthy characters; light to medium intensity. The palate replicates the bouquet, with a range of cedary/leafy/minty flavours, authentic to the variety. How much you like all of this is another matter.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 CofieldP Both the varietal Merlot and the Cabernet Merlot blend suggest the Cofield site is particularly well suited to merlot, which is not at all what one would expect. Both are interesting wines.S Veal cutletsX 4471Y 14/7/98a Rutherglen Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Cofield Cabernet Merlot Cofield $11-15 14/7/98 18/2/98 Cofield [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red; the bouquet is clean, with a mix of leafy, berry and more minty notes. The palate opens with sweeter fruit than the bouquet suggests, though some more leafy/briary characters do come through on the finish. Light, cool-grown style. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is clean, with a mix of leafy, berry and more minty notes. The palate opens with sweeter fruit than the bouquet suggests, though some more leafy/briary characters do come through on the finish. Light, cool-grown style.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Darling ParkP Absolutely extraordinary labelling to one side, this is a most attractive Pinot Noir which shows the 97 Mornington Peninsula vintage to good effect.S Smoked quailX 4472Y 10/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Darling Park Pinot Noir Darling Park 10/7/98 18/2/98 Darling Park [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; a quite complex, fragrant bouquet with plum, black cherry and touches of spice, with a similar display of plum and spice flavours on the youthful, moderately weighted palate. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a quite complex, fragrant bouquet with plum, black cherry and touches of spice, with a similar display of plum and spice flavours on the youthful, moderately weighted palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 De BortoliP Arguably, the best-value Pinot Noir produced in Australia today. Said to be produced from Victorian-grown grapes, but usually contains a high proportion of Yarra Valley material, sometimes exclusively so.S Chinese dry-fried shredded beefX 4473Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Windy Peak Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _ De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Noir De Bortoli (Victoria) $11-15 14/7/98 18/2/98 De Bortoli (Victoria) [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite brisk, with earthy/sappy overtones to the cherry and plum fruit. The palate is almost classically austere, with stemmy/foresty notes surrounding plum and mint fruit flavours. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite brisk, with earthy/sappy overtones to the cherry and plum fruit. The palate is almost classically austere, with stemmy/foresty notes surrounding plum and mint fruit flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 DulcineaP 18QNA great achievement, and in many ways a landmark wine for Ballarat Pinot Noir.S Roast duckX 4474Y 14/7/98a Ballarat Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Dulcinea Pinot Noir Dulcinea $16-20 14/7/98 18/2/98 Dulcinea I[4wine glasses] 1997 Bright red-purple; the bouquet is solid, with excellent dark plum and mint fruit, the palate likewise exhibiting considerable power and depth to the dark, plummy fruit. Notwithstanding all that power, not the least bit extractive or heavy, and has the essential softness of good Pinot Noir. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright red-purple; the bouquet is solid, with excellent dark plum and mint fruit, the palate likewise exhibiting considerable power and depth to the dark, plummy fruit. Notwithstanding all that power, not the least bit extractive or heavy, and has the essential softness of good Pinot Noir.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 DulcineaP 16Q;Produced not from Ballarat-grown grapes, but from Bendigo. S Daube of beefX 4475Y 14/7/98a Ballarat Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Dulcinea Shiraz Dulcinea $16-20 14/7/98 18/2/98 Dulcinea [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a very smooth and clean bouquet with black cherry and subtle cedary oak introduces an attractive, mid-weight wine with more cherry and mint flavours. Dips fractionally on the back palate, perhaps. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a very smooth and clean bouquet with black cherry and subtle cedary oak introduces an attractive, mid-weight wine with more cherry and mint flavours. Dips fractionally on the back palate, perhaps.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 DulcineaP A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, somewhat surprisingly coming from Ballarat (rather than Bendigo). Clearly, it will only be in the better vintages (such as 1996) that the wine will achieve this degree of fruit sweetness and ripeness. LasagneX 4476Y 14/7/98a Ballarat Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Dulcinea Cabernet Sauvignon Dulcinea $16-20 14/7/98 18/2/98 Dulcinea ,[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a clean, fresh bouquet with sweet cassis/raspberry fruit of light to medium intensity leads into an attractively sweet and soft wine, with ripe raspberry cassis flavours. Not a great deal of structure, to be sure, but what you get is good. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean, fresh bouquet with sweet cassis/raspberry fruit of light to medium intensity leads into an attractively sweet and soft wine, with ripe raspberry cassis flavours. Not a great deal of structure, to be sure, but what you get is good. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 NormansP 24Q_A brand extension has seen Chais Clarendon extend its fiefdom to Padthaway, and to good effect.S Fricassee of vealX 4477Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Chais Clarendon Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"Normans Chais Clarendon Chardonnay Normans $21-25 14/7/98 19/2/98 Normans #[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant and aromatic with a mix of grapefruit and canned fruit aromas. There is lots of ripe melon and grapefruit on the palate with attractive mouthfeel and balance. Judicious oak handling throughout. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant and aromatic with a mix of grapefruit and canned fruit aromas. There is lots of ripe melon and grapefruit on the palate with attractive mouthfeel and balance. Judicious oak handling throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Oakridge EstateP hA wine which has attracted a great deal of attention, partly because of its excellent show record, and partly because of its daunting price. Some have criticised that price, but I am far from convinced that criticism is justified. For the record, was produced from mature vines which yielded one tonne per hectare, and has been given Rolls Royce oak treatment. Aged eye filletX 4478Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Reserve Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Oakridge Estate Reserve Merlot Oakridge Estate 14/7/98 19/2/98 Oakridge Estate f[5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red; the bouquet is at once complex and classy, with berry, leaf and mint varietal fruit having that haunting medicinal character of top-class Merlot; suave, cedary oak adds yet another dimension. The palate has great richness and texture; despite all of its fruit and all of its oak, retains suppleness. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red; the bouquet is at once complex and classy, with berry, leaf and mint varietal fruit having that haunting medicinal character of top-class Merlot; suave, cedary oak adds yet another dimension. The palate has great richness and texture; despite all of its fruit and all of its oak, retains suppleness.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Reynolds YarramanP Make no mistake about it, Orange is a cool region. This means site selection for the later-ripening varieties is important, and also that vintage conditions will be of greater than usual importance. Not everything went right in 1995, but it certainly did in 1996. Beef stroganoffX 4479Y 14/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Orange Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _+Reynolds Yarraman Orange Cabernet Sauvignon Reynolds Yarraman $21-25 14/7/98 19/2/98 Reynolds Yarraman [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is distinctly riper than the 95, with attractive sweet cassis fruit which comes through on the equally attractive palate. Cassis, cedar and fine but lingering tannins all go to make an elegant, delicious wine. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is distinctly riper than the 95, with attractive sweet cassis fruit which comes through on the equally attractive palate. Cassis, cedar and fine but lingering tannins all go to make an elegant, delicious wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Ribbon ValeP NAQ<Unoaked, but picked ripe from vines which are 15 years old. S Avocado and seafood saladX 4480Y 10/7/98a Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Ribbon Vale Sauvignon Blanc Ribbon Vale Estate 10/7/98 19/2/98 Ribbon Vale Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Dull straw colour; unexpectedly, the bouquet has lots of character with rich gooseberry/tropical varietal aroma. The palate, too, has abundant, soft tropical/gooseberry fruit, softening slightly on the finish. Would have received higher points were it not for the colour; the other 97 whites from Ribbon Vale suffer even more from this problem. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Dull straw colour; unexpectedly, the bouquet has lots of character with rich gooseberry/tropical varietal aroma. The palate, too, has abundant, soft tropical/gooseberry fruit, softening slightly on the finish. Would have received higher points were it not for the colour; the other 97 whites from Ribbon Vale suffer even more from this problem.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Ribbon ValeP Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon; a Cabernet Merlot is also made. Like the Sauvignon Blanc, produced from fully mature, low-yielding vines.S Ragout of beefX 4481Y 10/7/98a Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Ribbon Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Ribbon Vale Estate 10/7/98 19/2/98 Ribbon Vale Estate [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite ripe, with sweet, clean chocolatey/berry fruit and soft oak. The palate is powerful but well balanced, with blackberry, chocolate and earthy fruit. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite ripe, with sweet, clean chocolatey/berry fruit and soft oak. The palate is powerful but well balanced, with blackberry, chocolate and earthy fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 S Kidman WinesP The estate vineyards are now approaching 30 years of age, and hence fully mature. Given such base material, there is no need to play games in the winery, and the wine reflects the straightforward approach.S Barbecued lamb chopsX 4482Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia S Kidman Wines Shiraz S Kidman Wines $11-15 14/7/98 19/2/98 S Kidman Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fresh and youthful with earth and spice Shiraz varietal character supported by just a whiff of oak. The palate provides precisely the same, fresh and youthful, with spicy/earthy berry fruit. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fresh and youthful with earth and spice Shiraz varietal character supported by just a whiff of oak. The palate provides precisely the same, fresh and youthful, with spicy/earthy berry fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Zema EstateP First made in 1993. An estate-grown blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%) and the remainder Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The 96 is the best to this point of time.S Braised lambX 4483Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Cluny Cabernet Blends Z Australia Zema Estate Cluny Zema Estate $16-20 14/7/98 19/2/98 Zema Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; the sweet, ripe cherry and blackcurrant bouquet introduces a quite complex wine on the palate with mint and berry flavours, supple tannins and a long finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; the sweet, ripe cherry and blackcurrant bouquet introduces a quite complex wine on the palate with mint and berry flavours, supple tannins and a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Wyndham EstateP 25Q Due for release in October 1998.S Roast chickenX 4484Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Show Reserve Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _$Wyndham Estate Show Reserve Semillon Wyndham Estate $21-25 14/7/98 19/2/98 Wyndham Estate [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth, of medium intensity, with gently honeyed fruit. The palate is similarly pleasant and smooth, with a mix of honey, mineral and faintly herbaceous flavours. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth, of medium intensity, with gently honeyed fruit. The palate is similarly pleasant and smooth, with a mix of honey, mineral and faintly herbaceous flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 N MountadamP RAn elegantly packaged wine employing the ancient dumbbell bottle shape found with some of the oldest French Champagnes. I have not always taken to previous vintages, but the 92 is a delicious wine. Made from 80% Pinot Noir and barrel-fermented, it spends five years on lees, and no attempt is made to remove the colour of the Pinot Noir. SunlightX 4486Y 14/7/98a Eden Valley Pinot Chardonnay Brut X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Mountadam Pinot Chardonnay Brut c Mountadam $26-50 14/7/98 19/2/98 % Mountadam [4wine glasses] 1992 Rose pink; the bouquet is clean, with no excess aldehydes, exhibiting a mix of strawberry, vanilla and spice. The attractively fine but well-flavoured palate is strawberry-accented, with nuances of spice and citrus, and an appropriately long finish. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1992 <f"Bembo">Rose pink; the bouquet is clean, with no excess aldehydes, exhibiting a mix of strawberry, vanilla and spice. The attractively fine but well-flavoured palate is strawberry-accented, with nuances of spice and citrus, and an appropriately long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Beckett's FlatP NAQ:Skilfully contract-made, with no frills or embellishments.S Delicate white-fleshed fishX 4487Y 10/7/98a Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _'Beckett's Flat Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Beckett's Flat 10/7/98 19/2/98 Beckett's Flat ![3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is fresh and clean, and although relatively light, shows a nice balance of tropical and herbal fruit. The palate is likewise fresh, clean and crisp, and while not particularly intense, is well made and well balanced. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is fresh and clean, and although relatively light, shows a nice balance of tropical and herbal fruit. The palate is likewise fresh, clean and crisp, and while not particularly intense, is well made and well balanced.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Best'sP jA special release (marked by a red ribbon around the neck of the bottle) made from vines planted between 1867 and 1869. The back label modestly claims these to be the oldest pinot meunier vines in Australia; it is almost certain they are the oldest in the world. In recent years I have tasted vintages of this wine from the 1960s and 70s which were outstanding. Wild mushroom risottoX 4488Y 14/7/98a Grampians Pinot Meunier Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Best's Pinot Meunier Best's Wines $26-50 14/7/98 19/2/98 Best's Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red; the bouquet is sweet, with a mix of cedar, violets and more woody aromas. The palate has a similar hard-to-define mix of sweet/earthy/cedary flavours; soft tannins. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is sweet, with a mix of cedar, violets and more woody aromas. The palate has a similar hard-to-define mix of sweet/earthy/cedary flavours; soft tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Briagolong EstateP Always made in a very rich, full-blown mode. Not only is the wine picked late with substantial potential alcohol, but spends almost two years in oak before being bottled.S Yakitori chickenX 4489Y 14/7/98a Gippsland Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Briagolong Estate Chardonnay Briagolong Estate $21-25 14/7/98 19/2/98 Briagolong Estate )[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows a mix of nutty coconut/vanilla oak while still retaining some sweet peachy fruit. The palate has similar sweet notes (almost certainly from the alcohol), merging nutty vanillin oak with delicate peachy fruit flavours. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows a mix of nutty coconut/vanilla oak while still retaining some sweet peachy fruit. The palate has similar sweet notes (almost certainly from the alcohol), merging nutty vanillin oak with delicate peachy fruit flavours.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Bream CreekP Bream Creek is situated on one of the coldest sites in Tasmania, with a constant maritime influence. Conventional fruit ripeness will always be difficult to achieve.S Marinated scallopsX 4490Y 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Bream Creek Riesling Bream Creek Vineyard $11-15 14/7/98 19/2/98 Bream Creek Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a striking bouquet, with uncompromisingly cool-grown herb, grass and lime aromas. There are penetrating nettle, herb and lime flavours on the palate, finishing with trenchant acidity. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a striking bouquet, with uncompromisingly cool-grown herb, grass and lime aromas. There are penetrating nettle, herb and lime flavours on the palate, finishing with trenchant acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Brindabella HillsP In both 1996 and 1997 the most distinguished of the Brindabella Hills range. The 96 was placed first in the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Competition, and the 97 is of similar class and style. Chinese prawnsX 4491Y 14/7/98a Canberra District Vintage Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _,Brindabella Hills Vintage Reserve Chardonnay Brindabella Hills $16-20 14/7/98 19/2/98 Brindabella Hills E[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a complex bouquet with strong, toasty/charry/cinnamon barrel-ferment oak characters; the palate, likewise, shows substantial high toast barrel-ferment oak input, but does have elegant melon and peach fruit to justify this oak usage, and has a long finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a complex bouquet with strong, toasty/charry/cinnamon barrel-ferment oak characters; the palate, likewise, shows substantial high toast barrel-ferment oak input, but does have elegant melon and peach fruit to justify this oak usage, and has a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 BullersP 14.50QNAn attractive wine from the irrigated Beverford Vineyard on the Murray River. S Grilled chump chopsX 4493Y 14/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill White Label Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _&Bullers White Label Cabernet Sauvignon Bullers Beverford $11-15 14/7/98 19/2/98 Bullers Beverford [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite solid, with dusty/briary berry fruit, and just a tickle of astringency. A powerful, robust wine on the palate, with earthy/berry fruit and ample tannins. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite solid, with dusty/briary berry fruit, and just a tickle of astringency. A powerful, robust wine on the palate, with earthy/berry fruit and ample tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 BullersP Mondeuse was imported into Australia, and specifically to northeast Victoria, around the turn of the century by Francois De Castella, apparently because of its ability to retain acid in warm climates. Brown Brothers released the first Shiraz Mondeuse blend in the early 1960s (perhaps even earlier still) and Bullers have grown the variety for many decades. This is a wholly remarkable wine, a Vintage Port without the spirit, the 96 containing an awesome 15.9% alcohol. NAU Beef stewX 4492Y 14/7/98a Rutherglen Limited Release Shiraz Mondeuse Shiraz Blends Z Australia _'Bullers Limited Release Shiraz Mondeuse Bullers Calliope $16-20 14/7/98 19/2/98 Bullers Calliope ?[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; a dense, ripe and rich bouquet with an impenetrable mix of chocolate and berry fruit. The palate is no less rich, rather like chewing a dark chocolate bar spiced with plums; soft but persistent tannins are an essential part of the wholly imposing architecture. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; a dense, ripe and rich bouquet with an impenetrable mix of chocolate and berry fruit. The palate is no less rich, rather like chewing a dark chocolate bar spiced with plums; soft but persistent tannins are an essential part of the wholly imposing architecture.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 TorbreckP We are told the highland clans used a Runrig system to distribute land among their clansmen in a series of widely dispersed holdings, the emphasis not on any one farm, but rather the communal elements of the whole. Hence the wine, in which Shiraz from old dry-grown vineyards is blended with Viognier, in the words of Torbreck complementing the strength and complexities of these individual parcels of fruit, whilst giving the resulting wine a further dimension Braised wild duckX 4497Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley RunRig Shiraz Viognier Shiraz Blends Z Australia Torbreck RunRig Shiraz Viognier Torbreck Vintners $26-50 14/7/98 19/2/98 Torbreck Vintners #[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is rich and dense, with chocolate, berry and earth fruit aromas surrounded by charry, vanillin oak. The palate is multiflavoured with ripe fruit exhibiting gamey, minty and berry characters; fine tannin structure. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is rich and dense, with chocolate, berry and earth fruit aromas surrounded by charry, vanillin oak. The palate is multiflavoured with ripe fruit exhibiting gamey, minty and berry characters; fine tannin structure.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 TorbreckP NThe inspiration for the name, and the wine, is explained thus by Torbreck on a highland farm the collection of barns, stables and outbuildings is known as a steading. The varieties Grenache, Mourvedre and Shiraz all stand in their own right, however, in blending, their strengths create a complex wine of a solid, earthy structure. Lamb ProvencaleX 4498Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley The Steading Grenache Shiraz Shiraz Blends Z Australia _%Torbreck The Steading Grenache Shiraz Torbreck Vintners $21-25 17.01 14/7/98 19/2/98 Torbreck Vintners [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a fragrant, sweet juicy, jammy berry bouquet is replicated on the palate; of medium weight, showing good varietal characters throughout, and some tannins to close. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a fragrant, sweet juicy, jammy berry bouquet is replicated on the palate; of medium weight, showing good varietal characters throughout, and some tannins to close.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Cruickshank-CallatootaP 11.60QMA relatively unusual blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Cabernet Franc. S Smoked beefX 4499Y 14/7/98 Two Cabernets Bin CF4 Cabernet Blends Z Australia _,Cruickshank-Callatoota Two Cabernets Bin CF4 Cruickshank-Callatoota Estate $11-15 14/7/98 19/2/98 Cruickshank-Callatoota Estate [3wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; earthy, faintly gamey aromas of light to medium intensity build into something more appealing on the palate, which has some length and structure; cedar and tobacco flavours run through to a pleasant finish. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; earthy, faintly gamey aromas of light to medium intensity build into something more appealing on the palate, which has some length and structure; cedar and tobacco flavours run through to a pleasant finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Deakin EstateP 9.99Q Producing an early-bottled red wine from the Riverland and investing it with both flavour and structure is no easy task. In 1997 Deakin Estate succeeded admirably, particularly given the modest price of the wine.S Meat pieX 4500Y 14/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Deakin Estate Shiraz Deakin Estate e under $10 14/7/98 19/2/98 Deakin Estate #[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full red-purple; surprisingly concentrated and ripe earthy berry fruit aromas blossom in the glass. The palate, too, shows lots of black cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruit and avoids those hard tanky flavours of many early-bottled reds. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; surprisingly concentrated and ripe earthy berry fruit aromas blossom in the glass. The palate, too, shows lots of black cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruit and avoids those hard tanky flavours of many early-bottled reds.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Fern Hill EstateP Made in what can only be described as a somewhat old-fashioned style, with partial ageing in oak. The oak is less intrusive and better balanced than in the Chardonnay of the same vintage. Produced from a blend of McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley grapes.S Kentucky Fried ChickenX 4501Y 10/7/98a McLaren Vale Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Fern Hill Estate Semillon Fern Hill Estate 10/7/98 19/2/98 Fern Hill Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; a complex bottle-developed style, with quite rich, tangy fruit and subtle American oak on the bouquet. An honest, high-flavoured, mouthfilling Semillon in gumboots. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a complex bottle-developed style, with quite rich, tangy fruit and subtle American oak on the bouquet. An honest, high-flavoured, mouthfilling Semillon in gumboots. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 HappsP Merlot has for long been Erl Happ s speciality, and Happs stages an annual Merlot tasting corresponding to the Cabernet Sauvignon tasting of Cape Mentelle, the Chardonnay tasting of Cullen and the Pinot tasting of Wignalls and the Shiraz tasting of Peel Estate. Rib of beefX 4502Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Happs Merlot Happs $26-50 14/7/98 19/2/98 Happs a[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium to full intensity with solid briary/earthy aromas, with a no less powerful palate. Here that indefinable medicinal varietal character of merlot comes through with more briary flavours, finishing with strong tannins. A masculine Merlot, to say the least. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium to full intensity with solid briary/earthy aromas, with a no less powerful palate. Here that indefinable medicinal varietal character of merlot comes through with more briary flavours, finishing with strong tannins. A masculine Merlot, to say the least.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Hay Shed HillP 13QjA Ros made from unspecified varieties, but seemingly including Pinot Noir, which works brilliantly well. S Summer saladsX 4503Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Pitchfork Pink Z Australia Hay Shed Hill Pitchfork Pink Hay Shed Hill $11-15 14/7/98 19/2/98 Hay Shed Hill [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Pale rose; the attractive bouquet is clean, with sweet, gentle strawberry fruit aromas. The palate is well balanced, showing similar fruit-sweet strawberry flavours; excellent acidity gives the wine focus. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Pale rose; the attractive bouquet is clean, with sweet, gentle strawberry fruit aromas. The palate is well balanced, showing similar fruit-sweet strawberry flavours; excellent acidity gives the wine focus.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Heritage WinesP 11.50QxA wine which, from time to time, excels itself, as it has done in 1996. Produced from old, dry-grown Clare Valley vines.S Pasta with smoked salmonX 4504Y 14/7/98 Barossa Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Heritage Wines Riesling Heritage Wines $11-15 14/7/98 19/2/98 Heritage Wines J[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet has plenty of character, with rich, toast and lime fruit in abundance. In the mouth, attractively complex with toast, lime and honey flavours, finishing with good acidity. Perhaps tastes a little older than it is, but should comfortably see the distance out. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet has plenty of character, with rich, toast and lime fruit in abundance. In the mouth, attractively complex with toast, lime and honey flavours, finishing with good acidity. Perhaps tastes a little older than it is, but should comfortably see the distance out.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Heritage WinesP 15QwDrawn in part from 1 hectare of estate plantings. Conventionally matured in a mix of new and used American oak barrels.S Barbecued beefX 4505Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _!Heritage Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Heritage Wines $11-15 14/7/98 19/2/98 Heritage Wines t[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is full, ripe and dense with sweet blackcurrant fruit and subtle oak. A high-powered, dense and rich palate follows; there is an echo of the oak which detracts somewhat from the Shiraz of the same vintage (a curious putty character) but the fruit of the Cabernet is so strong it barely matters. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is full, ripe and dense with sweet blackcurrant fruit and subtle oak. A high-powered, dense and rich palate follows; there is an echo of the oak which detracts somewhat from the Shiraz of the same vintage (a curious putty character) but the fruit of the Cabernet is so strong it barely matters.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 ;Industry veteran James Irvine has been producing his Grand Merlot for many years now; almost all is sold overseas. Deluxe packaging is matched by deluxe oak handling; the wine spends over three years in oak. Its quality is not in doubt, but one might be hard-pressed to guess what the variety is in a blind tasting. Smoked lambX 4506Y 14/7/98a Eden Valley James Irvine Grand Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia James Irvine Grand Merlot Irvine 14/7/98 19/2/98 Irvine [4wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red; a scented, fragrant cedary bouquet is followed by a palate in which sweet cedar and vanilla oak and soft, silky tannins produce a seductive wine, with fruit an incidental extra. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red; a scented, fragrant cedary bouquet is followed by a palate in which sweet cedar and vanilla oak and soft, silky tannins produce a seductive wine, with fruit an incidental extra.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 KoppamurraP 17.50Q While Merlot (and Cabernet Merlot blends) have often produced the best Koppamurra wines, Cabernet Sauvignon outperformed the other varieties in 1996.S Beef BordelaiseX 4507Y 14/7/98a Koppamurra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Koppamurra Cabernet Sauvignon Koppamurra $16-20 14/7/98 19/2/98 Koppamurra [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; solid, dark berry/earthy varietal fruit on the bouquet; the palate is quite luscious, with sweet, intense red berry/cassis fruit, and just the barest touch of oak. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; solid, dark berry/earthy varietal fruit on the bouquet; the palate is quite luscious, with sweet, intense red berry/cassis fruit, and just the barest touch of oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Lake BreezeP Sold only from cellar door and by mail order, the initial release (of the 96 vintage) scheduled for release in September 1998.S Leave it in the cellarX 4508Y 14/7/98a Langhorne Creek Winemakers Selection Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _'Lake Breeze Winemakers Selection Shiraz Lake Breeze Wines $21-25 14/7/98 19/2/98 Lake Breeze Wines B[4wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; an extremely rich, dense and concentrated bouquet with ultra-ripe black cherry fruit and abundant oak. Improbable though it may seem, the palate actually steps up a notch, and might have been better had it not done so; the ultimate magimix essence of fruit and oak. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; an extremely rich, dense and concentrated bouquet with ultra-ripe black cherry fruit and abundant oak. Improbable though it may seem, the palate actually steps up a notch, and might have been better had it not done so; the ultimate magimix essence of fruit and oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Lake BreezeP Obviously enough, the sister wine to the Winemakers Selection Shiraz. Only 250 cases were made, and, like the Shiraz, is sold only through cellar door and by mailing list. The inaugural vintage was the top gold medal in its class at the 1997 McLaren Vale Wine Show. 96U Rare beefX 4509Y 14/7/98a Langhorne Creek Winemakers Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _3Lake Breeze Winemakers Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Lake Breeze Wines $21-25 14/7/98 19/2/98 Lake Breeze Wines [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a complex, full bouquet with sweet berry and mint fruit, and well-balanced oak. The palate is exceptionally rich and round, with luscious, sweet red berry fruit which more than holds its own against the oak. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a complex, full bouquet with sweet berry and mint fruit, and well-balanced oak. The palate is exceptionally rich and round, with luscious, sweet red berry fruit which more than holds its own against the oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Miranda Rovalley EstateP XProduced from grapes grown in the Riverina, the Barossa Valley and the King Valley, and given the full winemaking treatment. Cold-fermented in stainless steel, with the fermentation finishing in new French and American oak barrels, followed by malolactic fermentation and lees contact. Has been a consistent medal winner in national wine shows. Pasta carbonaraX 4510Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Grey Series Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _,Miranda Rovalley Estate Grey Series Semillon Miranda Rovalley Estate $11-15 14/7/98 20/2/98 Miranda Rovalley Estate Q[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is rich and full with tangy, lemony fruit and obvious but not aggressive oak. On the palate there are unusual, elevated tropical/tangy fruit flavours merging with sweet, spicy oak. In many ways a Semillon masquerading as a Chardonnay, but none the worse for that. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is rich and full with tangy, lemony fruit and obvious but not aggressive oak. On the palate there are unusual, elevated tropical/tangy fruit flavours merging with sweet, spicy oak. In many ways a Semillon masquerading as a Chardonnay, but none the worse for that.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Miranda Rovalley EstateP 9QdProduced in direct, but full-flavoured style. Again, a consistent bronze medal winner in wine shows.S Salmon rouladeX 4511Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Grey Series Eden Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _8Miranda Rovalley Estate Grey Series Eden Valley Riesling Miranda Rovalley Estate e under $10 14/7/98 20/2/98 Miranda Rovalley Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is big, broad and soft, with tropical lime fruit repeated on the full-flavoured, soft palate. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is big, broad and soft, with tropical lime fruit repeated on the full-flavoured, soft palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 SaltramP 35QqProduced from old, low-yielding, dry-grown Barossa Shiraz. Made in an extremely bold-style, with lashings of oak.S Richly sauced casseroleX 4512Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley No. 1 Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Saltram No. 1 Shiraz Saltram $26-50 14/7/98 20/2/98 Saltram [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; all American vanilla oak and rich fruit engage in an Indian armwrestle from the start of the bouquet to the finish of the palate, with the result inconclusive. Call back at the end of round 5 in five years time. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; all American vanilla oak and rich fruit engage in an Indian armwrestle from the start of the bouquet to the finish of the palate, with the result inconclusive. Call back at the end of round 5 in five years time.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 ShottesbrookeP A premium label introduced with the 1995 vintage, and named in honour of Eliza Harris, the daughter of Edward Harris who purchased the land upon which Shottesbrooke now stands from the Crown in 1847. Five hundred cases only of the wine are made.S Grilled calf's liverX 4513Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Eliza Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Shottesbrooke Eliza Shiraz Shottesbrooke $11-15 14/7/98 20/2/98 Shottesbrooke "[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a clean, fresh bouquet with red berry and mint fruit which progressively unfolded in the glass. Smooth cherry, plum and mint fruit is woven through attractive oak on the palate; harmonious and long, though by no means a heavyweight. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean, fresh bouquet with red berry and mint fruit which progressively unfolded in the glass. Smooth cherry, plum and mint fruit is woven through attractive oak on the palate; harmonious and long, though by no means a heavyweight.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 TaltarniP Produced from 8.35 hectares of estate plantings, part of the harvest going to provide this wine, and part the Merlot Cabernet. Taltarni was in fact one of the first producers in the country to release a varietal Merlot.S Veal saltimboccaX 4514Y 14/7/98a Pyrenees Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Taltarni Merlot Taltarni $21-25 14/7/98 20/2/98 Taltarni [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a most attractive and fresh bouquet with sweet berry fruit follows through to a palate which opens with great promise, showing more of those sweet red berry and mint fruit flavours, before Taltarni tannins zoom in to attack on the finish. One can only hope there is enough fruit there to sustain the wine until the tannins have ceased dropping their bombs. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a most attractive and fresh bouquet with sweet berry fruit follows through to a palate which opens with great promise, showing more of those sweet red berry and mint fruit flavours, before Taltarni tannins zoom in to attack on the finish. One can only hope there is enough fruit there to sustain the wine until the tannins have ceased dropping their bombs.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Terrace ValeP 12.50 Newly packaged with the bold 'T' design label of Terrace Vale, but made in traditional-style from vines now approaching 30 years of age.S Prawn saladX 4515Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Terrace Vale Semillon Terrace Vale $11-15 14/7/98 20/2/98 Terrace Vale [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite potent, with tangy, herbaceous fruit, the palate likewise with a minerally herbaceous grip, good length and good acidity. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite potent, with tangy, herbaceous fruit, the palate likewise with a minerally herbaceous grip, good length and good acidity. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Turkey FlatP First made in 1996, taking fruit from then 44-year-old (now 45-year-old) vines. Stainless steel fermented, and given no oak treatment, but does spend six months on lees. S Honey chickenX 4516Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Turkey Flat Semillon Turkey Flat $11-15 14/7/98 20/2/98 Turkey Flat [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and smooth with quite complex honey and faintly toasty fruit aromas. The palate is soft, with honey, lime and toast flavours; medium weight and medium length. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and smooth with quite complex honey and faintly toasty fruit aromas. The palate is soft, with honey, lime and toast flavours; medium weight and medium length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 WildwoodP ,Coincidentally or otherwise, the best Wildwood Chardonnay to date, and released at the same time as the very good 96 Pinot Noir. With the aid of Dr Who and his time machine, the wine was bottled and labelled in January 1998, yet was able to spend 12 months in barrel, or so the back label tells us. 97U CassouletX 4517Y 14/7/98a Sunbury Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Wildwood Chardonnay Wildwood $16-20 14/7/98 20/2/98 Wildwood [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a light, citrus-tinged bouquet with some spicy scents gives little hint of the extremely rich and concentrated palate, with almost viscous peach and citrus flavours attesting to its 13.6 degrees alcohol. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a light, citrus-tinged bouquet with some spicy scents gives little hint of the extremely rich and concentrated palate, with almost viscous peach and citrus flavours attesting to its 13.6 degrees alcohol.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Woodonga HillP A handful of red wines made from a grape which is normally used in sparkling wine (and of course in Champagne). Best s, derived from vines now 130 years old, is the most notable, but dotted around the country, makers are giving it a go. This wine, like some of its fellows, shows it is possible to obtain both colour and flavour from very ripe meunier, but that the price of doing so seems to be a loss of varietal character. For all that, interesting. QuailX 4518Y 14/7/98a Hilltops Meunier Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Woodonga Hill Meunier Woodonga Hill $11-15 14/7/98 20/2/98 Woodonga Hill D[3wine glasses] 1997 Strong red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with very ripe earthy/plummy fruit, the palate similarly showing exceptionally ripe vaguely plummy fruit. Basically a medium-bodied dry red; earlier picking might have produced more interesting flavours. The wine is also low in sulphur dioxide. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with very ripe earthy/plummy fruit, the palate similarly showing exceptionally ripe vaguely plummy fruit. Basically a medium-bodied dry red; earlier picking might have produced more interesting flavours. The wine is also low in sulphur dioxide.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 LamontP Jack Mann used to insist that all grapes, white or red, be left on the vine until the vine is no longer able to nourish them . Obviously enough, he favoured full bodied styles; the Lamont Verdelho is exactly as he would have wished it to be, and is an outstanding example of the variety. Rich pastaX 4519Y 14/7/98a Swan District Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Lamont Verdelho Lamont Wines $11-15 14/7/98 20/2/98 Lamont Wines [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a highly aromatic and wonderfully rich bouquet (boo-key in Mann-speak) with abundant fruit salad aromas is complemented by a rich palate, full of fruit flavour and fruit sweetness, finishing with balancing acidity. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a highly aromatic and wonderfully rich bouquet (boo-key in Mann-speak) with abundant fruit salad aromas is complemented by a rich palate, full of fruit flavour and fruit sweetness, finishing with balancing acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 LamontP Jack Mann was big on fruit, but not so much on oak, and in particular, new oak. This wine, however, might well have got through his guard, as the oak has been sensitively handled (much more so than in the Semillon of the same vintage).S Corn-fed chickenX 4520Y 14/7/98a Swan District Barrel Fermented Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"Lamont Barrel Fermented Chardonnay Lamont Wines $16-20 14/7/98 20/2/98 Lamont Wines [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth, with ripe melon, fig and peach fruit supported by subtle, slightly charry, oak. The palate is driven by attractive melon, citrus and yellow peach fruit; a touch of oak rounds off the finish. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth, with ripe melon, fig and peach fruit supported by subtle, slightly charry, oak. The palate is driven by attractive melon, citrus and yellow peach fruit; a touch of oak rounds off the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Long GullyP 11.30 [Yarra Ridge leapt out of the blocks and into the public consciousness with its first Sauvignon Blanc from the Yarra Valley. Subsequent releases have broadened their geographic base, and the wine has lost some of its impact. The Long Gully turns back the clock, as it were. Stainless steel fermented, without the intrusion of oak or residual sugar. CalamariX 4521Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Long Gully Sauvignon Blanc Long Gully Estate $11-15 14/7/98 20/2/98 Long Gully Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium green-yellow; a quite fragrant bouquet with a mix of gooseberry and more herbal aromas leads into a positively flavoured herb and gooseberry palate of medium weight, and a pleasantly soft finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium green-yellow; a quite fragrant bouquet with a mix of gooseberry and more herbal aromas leads into a positively flavoured herb and gooseberry palate of medium weight, and a pleasantly soft finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Lowe FamilyP 16.34 'The grapes for this wine come from 30-year-old vines growing on the Rothvale Vineyard at Pokolbin, on the classic sandy flats, long recognised as producing the best Semillon. The wine itself is made in a full-bodied style with what seems to be skin contact or some other accelerating influence. Fried chickenX 4522Y 14/7/98a Mudgee Unwooded Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Lowe Family Unwooded Semillon Lowe Family Wines $16-20 14/7/98 20/2/98 Lowe Family Wines ,[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow; the bouquet is very developed and big, with rich honeyed/buttery fruit, the palate delivering more of the same in a toasty honeyed style of the kind one would expect either from a ten-year-old unwooded wine or a two-year-old oaked wine. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow; the bouquet is very developed and big, with rich honeyed/buttery fruit, the palate delivering more of the same in a toasty honeyed style of the kind one would expect either from a ten-year-old unwooded wine or a two-year-old oaked wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Lyre Bird HillP The Lyre Bird Hill Pinot Noir comes in two forms: varietal and Cellar Reserve. The Cellar Reserve comes from selected barrels and is similar (although slightly better than) to the varietal wine.S NAU Wild duckX 4523Y 14/7/98a Gippsland Pinot Noir Cellar Reserve Pinot Noir Z Australia _(Lyre Bird Hill Pinot Noir Cellar Reserve Lyre Bird Hill $21-25 14/7/98 20/2/98 Lyre Bird Hill [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a complex, solid bouquet with a mix of briary, foresty and dark plum aromas. The palate, likewise, is full-bodied, with plum and mint fruit, and slightly extractive tannins on the finish. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a complex, solid bouquet with a mix of briary, foresty and dark plum aromas. The palate, likewise, is full-bodied, with plum and mint fruit, and slightly extractive tannins on the finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 MildaraP Given Mildara's penchant for creating new labels, the brand extension of Jamiesons Run into a Reserve Red comes as something of a surprise, but then Ray King has pulled many rabbits from the hat in his time as chief executive. The wine comes in its own branded, embossed bottle, and there is no doubt the first vintage ( 95) is significantly better than the standard release of that year. Porterhouse steakX 4524Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Jamiesons Run Reserve Red Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _!Mildara Jamiesons Run Reserve Red Mildara (Coonawarra) $26-50 14/7/98 20/2/98 Mildara (Coonawarra) [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, with dark berry, earth, subtle oak and a degree of lift. The palate is smooth and round, with sweet cassis/raspberry fruit, and judiciously balanced tannin and oak inputs. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, of medium intensity, with dark berry, earth, subtle oak and a degree of lift. The palate is smooth and round, with sweet cassis/raspberry fruit, and judiciously balanced tannin and oak inputs.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Mount BeckworthP Produced from 1.2 hectares of estate plantings. The 96 is an impressive wine, winning well-deserved silver medals at the 1997 Ballarat and Hobart Wine Shows. S Venison ragoutX 4525Y 14/7/98a Ballarat Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Mount Beckworth Pinot Noir Mount Beckworth $16-20 14/7/98 20/2/98 Mount Beckworth [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a solid bouquet with a mix of dark fruit, plum and foresty notes, but not the slightest bit green. The palate is very substantial with dark plum, almost into blackberry; while powerful, not abrasive. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a solid bouquet with a mix of dark fruit, plum and foresty notes, but not the slightest bit green. The palate is very substantial with dark plum, almost into blackberry; while powerful, not abrasive.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Paul OsickaP 19QfEstate-grown from vines which are up to 40 years old, and almost always the pick of the Osicka wines. S Kangaroo filletX 4526Y 14/7/98a Bendigo Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Paul Osicka Shiraz Paul Osicka $16-20 14/7/98 20/2/98 Paul Osicka [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean and ripe, with rich, intense black cherry and blackberry fruit. The palate provides precisely the same sweet fruit flavours in restrained abundance; fine but persistent tannins run throughout. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean and ripe, with rich, intense black cherry and blackberry fruit. The palate provides precisely the same sweet fruit flavours in restrained abundance; fine but persistent tannins run throughout.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Preston PeakP 2One assumes from the label that both Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (and conceivably Merlot) are used in making the wine, but no varieties are specified on either the front or back label. What is known is that only 200 cases of the wine were made, and that it spends a little under 18 months in oak. KebabsX 4527Y 14/7/98a Granite Belt N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Preston Peak Cabernets Preston Peak $16-20 14/7/98 20/2/98 Preston Peak [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red, with a tinge of purple; the relatively light bouquet is clean, with fresh, juicy berry fruit and some cedary oak notes. The palate is likewise fresh, with juicy, almost jammy, red berry fruit, but with attractive mouthfeel. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red, with a tinge of purple; the relatively light bouquet is clean, with fresh, juicy berry fruit and some cedary oak notes. The palate is likewise fresh, with juicy, almost jammy, red berry fruit, but with attractive mouthfeel. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 N BeresfordP 13.95Q A pleasant wine which, as the name indicates, is a blend of McLaren Vale and Padthaway material. It is barrel-fermented and given time on yeast lees, but the oak influence is barely perceptible.S White-fleshed fishX 4528Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale McLaren Padthaway Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Beresford McLaren Padthaway Chardonnay Beresford Wines $11-15 14/7/98 20/2/98 Beresford Wines [3wine glasses] 1997 Bright green-yellow; the light bouquet is clean, with smooth, melon and citrus fruit, the palate likewise of light to medium weight, with melon fruit and a slightly green finish. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright green-yellow; the light bouquet is clean, with smooth, melon and citrus fruit, the palate likewise of light to medium weight, with melon fruit and a slightly green finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 N BeresfordP 13.95Q Produced entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grown in McLaren Vale, matured in second-use French oak barrels. Rob Dundon has always favoured light-bodied wines, but this has good fruit character.S Grilled beefX 4529Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale McLaren Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _!Beresford McLaren Cabernet Merlot Beresford Wines $11-15 14/7/98 20/2/98 Beresford Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet shows some of the slightly green, slightly vegetal character which Merlot seems to provide when blended with Cabernet, but also has some sweeter fruit characters, leaving you guessing which way the wine will go in the mouth. In fact it comes right up, with solid dark berry fruit and nuances of chocolate and mint, closing with well-balanced tannins. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet shows some of the slightly green, slightly vegetal character which Merlot seems to provide when blended with Cabernet, but also has some sweeter fruit characters, leaving you guessing which way the wine will go in the mouth. In fact it comes right up, with solid dark berry fruit and nuances of chocolate and mint, closing with well-balanced tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Britannia FallsP _Produced from a little under 1 hectare of estate plantings, and typically held back for a number of years in bottle prior to release. Interestingly, but in my view correctly, the 95 was released prior to the 94, the latter being a better wine. The 90 Semillon is also due for future release, along with the 94, but is not travelling quite so well. Stuffed calamariX 4530Y 14/7/98 Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Britannia Falls Semillon Britannia Falls Estate $16-20 14/7/98 20/2/98 Britannia Falls Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full yellow-green; quite youthful, with distinctly herbaceous/grassy aromas. The palate, too, is potent and herbaceous, reminiscent of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, with good length and mouthfeel. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; quite youthful, with distinctly herbaceous/grassy aromas. The palate, too, is potent and herbaceous, reminiscent of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, with good length and mouthfeel.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Britannia FallsP Produced from 1 hectare of estate plantings; Charlie Brydon has elected to keep his Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc separate, rather than blend them. In 1998 the 94 was the current release.S Fish terrineX 4531Y 14/7/98 Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Britannia Falls Sauvignon Blanc Britannia Falls Estate $16-20 14/7/98 20/2/98 Britannia Falls Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows less sauvignon blanc character than the semillon does, but that varietal character comes through on the fresh, tangy/gooseberry palate, which is ageing most attractively. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows less sauvignon blanc character than the semillon does, but that varietal character comes through on the fresh, tangy/gooseberry palate, which is ageing most attractively. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 BurramurraP !A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot grown on the vineyard owned by Victorian Deputy Premier Pat McNamara, and spends 18 months in French and American oak. The striking label depicts Australia's first banknote, which shows the Goulburn Weir adjacent to the Burramurra property. Yearling beefX 4532Y 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Burramurra Cabernet Merlot Burramurra $16-20 14/7/98 20/2/98 Burramurra [3.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with earthy overtones together with subtle, cedary oak. The palate is clean, relatively light, with reserved briary/leafy flavours. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with earthy overtones together with subtle, cedary oak. The palate is clean, relatively light, with reserved briary/leafy flavours. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 N Ada RiverP 12QTOne of the rare Yarra Valley Gewurztraminers, and which is ageing surprisingly well.S Asian prawnsX 4533Y 14/7/98a Gippsland Yarra Traminer White Traminer Z Australia Ada River Yarra Traminer c Ada River $11-15 14/7/98 22/2/98 % Ada River [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant with pronounced spicy/lychee varietal character of medium intensity. The palate provides more of the same; fresh and light, with gentle spice and lychee flavours; well balanced. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is quite fragrant with pronounced spicy/lychee varietal character of medium intensity. The palate provides more of the same; fresh and light, with gentle spice and lychee flavours; well balanced.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Capel ValeP First produced under the top Reserve label in 1996, and drawn from Capel Vale's Whispering Hill Vineyard at Mount Barker. A particularly powerful wine was made in 1997, picked at 13.5 baum Thai cuisineX 4534Y 14/7/98 a Geographe Whispering Hill Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _#Capel Vale Whispering Hill Riesling Capel Vale $21-25 14/7/98 22/2/98 Capel Vale x[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a quite fragrant bouquet with lime, passionfruit and an extra touch of lift deriving from a touch of botrytis influence. The palate is intense, with lime and passionfruit flavours, and again just an echo of that botrytis on the finish. It is difficult to know whether this adds to or detracts from the wine. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a quite fragrant bouquet with lime, passionfruit and an extra touch of lift deriving from a touch of botrytis influence. The palate is intense, with lime and passionfruit flavours, and again just an echo of that botrytis on the finish. It is difficult to know whether this adds to or detracts from the wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Capel ValeP Another prestige wine for Capel Vale from its Whispering Hill Vineyard, grown on granitic soils. The wine spends 18 months in oak; 30% is new French, the balance being two-year-old French and American oak barriques. The wine was not filtered, but, in a world-first, was fined using (I kid you not) free-range eggwhites. It is presented in the biggest, heaviest bottle imaginable, like a giant tenpin bowling ball. Free-range eggs and bowling balls to one side, this is a terrific wine. Game pieX 14/7/98a Geographe Kinnaird Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Capel Vale Kinnaird Shiraz Capel Vale $26-50 14/7/98 22/2/98 Capel Vale [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red, with just a touch of purple. The intense bouquet is clean, with fully ripe sweet cherry fruit and subtle oak swelling into an opulent palate with waves of black cherry fruit and sophisticated spicy oak. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red, with just a touch of purple. The intense bouquet is clean, with fully ripe sweet cherry fruit and subtle oak swelling into an opulent palate with waves of black cherry fruit and sophisticated spicy oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Capel ValeP A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret River and 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc from Capel. The components were separately fermented, and matured in new French oak for 12 months prior to blending. The wine selected for the Howecroft reserve bottling then spent a further year in barrel before being bottled. Like the Kinnaird Shiraz, presented in a dreadnought-class bottle. Rare eye filletX 4536Y 14/7/98a Geographe M Howecroft Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _.Capel Vale Howecroft Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Capel Vale $26-50 14/7/98 22/2/98 Capel Vale [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is full and complex, with ripe blackberry and chocolate fruit supported by subtle oak. The palate is elegant, yet powerful, with restrained cassis and chocolate fruit flavours, followed by lingering tannins. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is full and complex, with ripe blackberry and chocolate fruit supported by subtle oak. The palate is elegant, yet powerful, with restrained cassis and chocolate fruit flavours, followed by lingering tannins. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Cockfighter s GhostP 15.95 5Two-thirds of the wine is fermented in stainless steel, the other third being matured in a mix of Allier and Troncais oak, and taken through malolactic fermentation with lees contact. We are not told for how long this component is left in oak, but the oak influence is barely perceptible in the finished wine. PastaX 4538Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Cockfighter s Ghost Chardonnay Cockfighter s Ghost Vineyard $11-15 14/7/98 22/2/98 Cockfighter s Ghost Vineyard [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a clean bouquet, with gentle peach and citrus fruit is followed by a clean, inoffensive, pleasant palate with no unexpected flavours. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a clean bouquet, with gentle peach and citrus fruit is followed by a clean, inoffensive, pleasant palate with no unexpected flavours.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Domaine ChandonP A relatively new direction for Domaine Chandon, but then not so surprising given the length of time such wines have to be left on yeast lees. The 92 spent five and a half years on yeast lees before disgorgement and release early in 1998.S Caviar, of courseX 4539Y 10/7/98a Yarra Valley Late Disgorged X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _#Domaine Chandon Late Disgorged Brut Domaine Chandon 10/7/98 22/2/98 Domaine Chandon v[5wine glasses] 1992 Bright, pale straw yellow; the bouquet is spotless, with wonderfully fresh yet exceptionally complex aromas of bread and brioche; powerful yet not heavy. The palate is no less complex, with outstanding balance and composition, ranging through ripe pear, citrus together with hints of spice and cake. The acidity and dosage are perfect. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1992 <f"Bembo">Bright, pale straw yellow; the bouquet is spotless, with wonderfully fresh yet exceptionally complex aromas of bread and brioche; powerful yet not heavy. The palate is no less complex, with outstanding balance and composition, ranging through ripe pear, citrus together with hints of spice and cake. The acidity and dosage are perfect.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Fishburn & O'KeefeP Greg O Keefe draws upon vineyards from both north and south Tasmania for his wines, relying entirely upon contract-grown fruit.S Tasmanian lobsterX 4540Y 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Fishburn & O'Keefe Riesling Fishburn & O'Keefe $11-15 14/7/98 22/2/98 Fishburn & O'Keefe 8[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite voluminous and floral, with spice and apple aromas. There are similar floral/spicy flavours on the forepalate, together with lime, but the finish, though not sweet, does seem to cloy a fraction, perhaps needing a touch more acid. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite voluminous and floral, with spice and apple aromas. There are similar floral/spicy flavours on the forepalate, together with lime, but the finish, though not sweet, does seem to cloy a fraction, perhaps needing a touch more acid.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 N HeemskerkP Together with pinot noir, riesling is the variety best suited to Tasmania's very cool climates, doing well in most vintages and in most regions. S ScallopsX 4541Y 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Heemskerk Riesling c Heemskerk $16-20 14/7/98 22/2/98 % Heemskerk [4wine glasses] 1997 Light straw yellow; the bouquet is tight and crisp, with lime/apple/citrus aromas running into more herbal/mineral characters. The palate is lively, with citrus, apple and herb flavours; good acidity and length. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light straw yellow; the bouquet is tight and crisp, with lime/apple/citrus aromas running into more herbal/mineral characters. The palate is lively, with citrus, apple and herb flavours; good acidity and length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 HollickP jWhile Brown Brothers pioneered Botrytis Riesling in Australia, Coonawarra (via Mildara) was one of the next areas to produce Botrytis Riesling, with some experimental wines in the 1960s. These days Tollana is the most regular producer of Botrytis Riesling from Coonawarra, but other producers chip in from time to time when conditions are right, hence this wine. Fruit tart 4542Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Botrytis Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia Hollick Botrytis Riesling Hollick $16-20 14/7/98 22/2/98 Hollick U[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-orange; solid lime/peach aromas with a hint of haystack and just a little volatility on the bouquet are followed by a richly flavoured palate with honey and lime on toast, which might have been better still had the crust been cut off, it is fractionally rough around the edges. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-orange; solid lime/peach aromas with a hint of haystack and just a little volatility on the bouquet are followed by a richly flavoured palate with honey and lime on toast, which might have been better still had the crust been cut off, it is fractionally rough around the edges.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Jasper HillP Georgia's Paddock is by far the larger of the two vineyard blocks, with 9.5 hectares of shiraz and 3 hectares of riesling (the latter of course going to make the varietal wine of that name). The vines are unirrigated, and are normally low-yielding, but yields were reduced even further in 1996 as a result of drought followed by the first frost in 22 years, which destroyed the bottom third of the paddock in December 1995. These calamities to one side, a perfect vintage which produced wines wB ith 14.5 degrees alcohol. 96U Wild duckX 4543Y 14/7/98a Bendigo Georgia s Paddock Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _$Jasper Hill Georgia s Paddock Shiraz Jasper Hill $26-50 14/7/98 22/2/98 Jasper Hill 6[5wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; a powerful, clean bouquet redolent of blackberry, liquorice, briar and earth fruit is followed by an equally powerful palate with ripe black cherry and mint fruit and appropriately strong tannins. Minimal oak influence throughout. Built to live forever. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; a powerful, clean bouquet redolent of blackberry, liquorice, briar and earth fruit is followed by an equally powerful palate with ripe black cherry and mint fruit and appropriately strong tannins. Minimal oak influence throughout. Built to live forever.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Jasper HillP Produced from 3 hectares of shiraz and 0.2 hectares of cabernet franc, the latter having an impact on style disproportionate to the area of grapes. Ron Laughton also suggests since 1992 he has endeavoured to move the wine towards a more elegant style, and I think he has succeeded admirably. In 1996, due mainly to low bunch numbers and the impact of the drought, only 100 cases of Emily s Paddock were produced. Rare eye fillet of beefX 4544Y 14/7/98a Bendigo Emily s Paddock Shiraz Cabernet Franc Shiraz Blends Z Australia _1Jasper Hill Emily s Paddock Shiraz Cabernet Franc Jasper Hill $26-50 14/7/98 22/2/98 Jasper Hill D[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is much sweeter than Georgia's Paddock, with more evident spicy vanilla oak. The palate, too, is slightly lighter, with a more supple texture to the mint, berry and leaf fruit flavours, though powerful tannins do come on the finish of the wine. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is much sweeter than Georgia's Paddock, with more evident spicy vanilla oak. The palate, too, is slightly lighter, with a more supple texture to the mint, berry and leaf fruit flavours, though powerful tannins do come on the finish of the wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 JenkeP eJenke regards this wine (and prices it accordingly) as its top red wine. The grapes come from old vines on the banks of Jacobs Creek, which are fermented in old concrete fermenters with traditional heading down boards. It spends 18 months in predominantly new American oak, much of that time on lees. For the record, Kym Jenke rates the 96 as the best yet. Barbecued rumpX 4545Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Jenke Shiraz Jenke Vineyards $21-25 14/7/98 22/2/98 Jenke Vineyards K[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Full red-purple; an exceptionally rich, ripe and dense bouquet with full-on blackberry, cherry and vanilla oak runs through to a massive, lusciously ripe juicy berry palate with quite charry American oak coming through on the finish. Needs time for the components to fully marry and soften. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; an exceptionally rich, ripe and dense bouquet with full-on blackberry, cherry and vanilla oak runs through to a massive, lusciously ripe juicy berry palate with quite charry American oak coming through on the finish. Needs time for the components to fully marry and soften.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Kangaroo Island VinesP Produced from grapes grown on the Florance Vineyard at Cygnet River. The first vintage was 1991, and the vines are now achieving mature flavours. S Salt-bush lambX 4546Y 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Florance Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _.Kangaroo Island Vines Florance Cabernet Merlot Kangaroo Island Vines $16-20 14/7/98 22/2/98 Kangaroo Island Vines [3wine glasses] 1996 Bright red-purple; the bouquet is quite sweet and rich, with minty/gamey fruit aromas. The palate, too, is powerful and concentrated, but the raw, earthy tannins do attack the mouth on the finish. Will improve with time in bottle. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright red-purple; the bouquet is quite sweet and rich, with minty/gamey fruit aromas. The palate, too, is powerful and concentrated, but the raw, earthy tannins do attack the mouth on the finish. Will improve with time in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 KellybrookP The very dry and warm conditions of 1997 resulted in excellent Pinot Noir (and other red varieties) from across the length and breadth of the Yarra Valley. S QuailX 4547Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Kellybrook Pinot Noir Kellybrook $16-20 14/7/98 22/2/98 Kellybrook [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with a mix of plum and more gamey characters, the palate with full plummy fruit, and again a touch of gaminess. Perhaps a little short in texture and length. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity, with a mix of plum and more gamey characters, the palate with full plummy fruit, and again a touch of gaminess. Perhaps a little short in texture and length.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Lawson HillP 19.50Q Produced from half a hectare of estate plantings which, as the name of the wine attests, are not irrigated, and are low-yielding. S Venison with juniper berriesX 4548Y 14/7/98 Dryland Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _&Lawson Hill Dryland Cabernet Sauvignon Lawson Hill $16-20 14/7/98 22/2/98 Lawson Hill [4wine glasses] 1994 Dense red; an extremely ripe and rich bouquet with blackcurrant/ribena fruit and some chocolate is logically followed by a ripe, full, dense cassis and chocolate-flavoured palate. Good handling of super-ripe material. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Dense red; an extremely ripe and rich bouquet with blackcurrant/ribena fruit and some chocolate is logically followed by a ripe, full, dense cassis and chocolate-flavoured palate. Good handling of super-ripe material.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Leeuwin EstateP 26.92 Inevitably, lives in the shade of Leeuwin Estate s Chardonnay, but this is a distinguished wine which once again shows how well Margaret River is suited to Sauvignon Blanc, particularly at the southern end. It is produced on 1.5 hectares of estate plantings; 70% is barrel-fermented in French oak and aged on lees for three months before being blended with the tank-fermented component. None of the oak used is new, and the oak influence is very subtle. 97U ShellfishX 4549Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Art Series Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _)Leeuwin Estate Art Series Sauvignon Blanc Leeuwin Estate $26-50 14/7/98 22/2/98 Leeuwin Estate [4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is light and crisp, moderately aromatic, with gentle gooseberry and herb fruit aromas. The palate is clean and fresh, quite delicate, with attractive mouthfeel and finish, but no aggression. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is light and crisp, moderately aromatic, with gentle gooseberry and herb fruit aromas. The palate is clean and fresh, quite delicate, with attractive mouthfeel and finish, but no aggression.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 McWilliam s Mount PleasantP Produced from grapes grown by McWilliam s long-serving winemaker Phillip Ryan. As with all Hunter Valley reds, does show vintage variation, but was a major success in 1996.S RabbitX 4550Y 10/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _!McWilliam s Mount Pleasant Merlot McWilliam s Mount Pleasant 10/7/98 22/2/98 McWilliam s Mount Pleasant D[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a relatively light but fragrant cedary, leafy, berry bouquet is followed by a wine which has excellent feel and balance in the mouth. There is a mix of leafy and sweeter berry fruit, with sensitively handled oak and soft tannins on the finish. As a Merlot should be. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a relatively light but fragrant cedary, leafy, berry bouquet is followed by a wine which has excellent feel and balance in the mouth. There is a mix of leafy and sweeter berry fruit, with sensitively handled oak and soft tannins on the finish. As a Merlot should be.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 N MountfordP 22.50 ?A blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, and yet another wine which adds growing weight to the argument that the Pemberton region is, after all, best suited to the Bordeaux varieties. Certainly, the wine has more weight and character than either the Chardonnay or Pinot Noir from Mountford. Devilled kidneysX 4552Y 14/7/98a Pemberton Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Cabernet Blends Z Australia _2Mountford Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc c Mountford $21-25 14/7/98 22/2/98 % Mountford [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Dense red-purple; the bouquet is strong and concentrated, with berry, earth and chocolate aromas. The palate is similarly powerful, displaying near-identical flavours to the bouquet. Promises to be long lived. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet is strong and concentrated, with berry, earth and chocolate aromas. The palate is similarly powerful, displaying near-identical flavours to the bouquet. Promises to be long lived.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 PalmaraP cSiegerrebe is a German-bred cross of gewurztraminer and a red table grape. Jancis Robinson comments the wine it produces is so rich and oppressively flavoured that it is usually a chore to drink . That may be so in Germany, but in Tasmania it produces a wine which is never less than interesting, reminiscent in many ways of Brown Brothers Orange Muscat. Prosciutto and melon X 4553Y 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Exotica White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Palmara Exotica Palmara $21-25 14/7/98 22/2/98 Palmara [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is intensely grapey, with succulent peach and apricot overtones, the palate as full-flavoured and rich as the bouquet promises. It is true the wine is slightly phenolic and heavy on the finish, however. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is intensely grapey, with succulent peach and apricot overtones, the palate as full-flavoured and rich as the bouquet promises. It is true the wine is slightly phenolic and heavy on the finish, however.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Peter LehmannP Produced from old, low-yielding shiraz vines grown in the Koonunga Hill district of the Barossa Valley. Imitation being the sincerest form of flattery, many years ago Peter Lehmann set out to essentially duplicate the Hardy Reynella style of Vintage Port, and has done so with verve. FriendsX 4554Y 10/7/98a Barossa Valley Bin AD2015 Vintage Port X Fortified Z Australia _%Peter Lehmann Bin AD2015 Vintage Port Peter Lehmann 10/7/98 22/2/98 Peter Lehmann o[4.5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is fragrant, indeed pungent, with penetrating earthy blackberry fruit and overtones of citrus and lantana. The palate is extremely well balanced, with chocolate, earth and berry fruit, substantial but not aggressive tannins, and a relatively dry finish the best feature of a good wine. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is fragrant, indeed pungent, with penetrating earthy blackberry fruit and overtones of citrus and lantana. The palate is extremely well balanced, with chocolate, earth and berry fruit, substantial but not aggressive tannins, and a relatively dry finish the best feature of a good wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Peterson HouseP :The label does not specify the percentage of the components, but it is a reasonable guess that Meunier represents only a small part of the blend, Pinot Noir a major part. No region of origin is claimed, but the wine does spend 12 months on lees, and is, without question, the best of the wines from Peterson House. Oysters or shellfishX 4555Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Pinot Chardonnay Meunier X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _'Peterson House Pinot Chardonnay Meunier Peterson House $21-25 14/7/98 22/2/98 Peterson House :[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Distinct straw; the bouquet is solid, although with a few faintly pongy/sweaty aromas of the kind one finds in lesser quality (French) Champagne. The palate is much better, with abundant biscuity/bready flavour, and good texture and structure to the back palate and finish. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Distinct straw; the bouquet is solid, although with a few faintly pongy/sweaty aromas of the kind one finds in lesser quality (French) Champagne. The palate is much better, with abundant biscuity/bready flavour, and good texture and structure to the back palate and finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Rothbury EstateP )One of three wines at the top of the quality tree for Rothbury, and, fittingly in my view, the best of the three (the other two being Chardonnay and Shiraz respectively). It seems almost superfluous to say it is made in the traditional fashion, cold-fermented in stainless steel and early bottled. SushiX 4556Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Brokenback Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _#Rothbury Estate Brokenback Semillon Rothbury Estate $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Rothbury Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is powerful, yet smooth, with lemony/herbaceous varietal fruit. The palate has good balance and style, showing citrus and lemon fruit, well-judged acidity and no characters from the wet vintage. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is powerful, yet smooth, with lemony/herbaceous varietal fruit. The palate has good balance and style, showing citrus and lemon fruit, well-judged acidity and no characters from the wet vintage.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Rothbury EstateP 24QiVintaged in the pre-Mildara Blass days, but selected and finished after the takeover. An attractive wine.S Shepherd's pieX 4557Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Brokenback Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _!Rothbury Estate Brokenback Shiraz Rothbury Estate $21-25 14/7/98 25/2/98 Rothbury Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid, with a mix of plum and earth fruit, the palate is of medium weight with more of those regional earthy flavours, some plum and soft tannins. Will gain complexity as it ages. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is solid, with a mix of plum and earth fruit, the palate is of medium weight with more of those regional earthy flavours, some plum and soft tannins. Will gain complexity as it ages. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Derwent EstateP 17.50Q Produced entirely from 1.5 hectares of estate plantings; typically picked at the end of the first week of May with yields of around 8 tonnes per hectare. Cold fermented to dryness and early bottled.S Avocado saladX 4558Y 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Derwent Estate Riesling Derwent Estate $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Derwent Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 The bouquet is clean, with a mix of herb, mineral and lime aromas; the palate is well balanced, with lime/lemon fruit of medium intensity, and a fractionally hard finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">The bouquet is clean, with a mix of herb, mineral and lime aromas; the palate is well balanced, with lime/lemon fruit of medium intensity, and a fractionally hard finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 RochecombeP 24.95Q Produced predominantly from Pinot Noir, with selected parcels of Chardonnay also, we are told. Reflects the sparkling wine expertise within the Heemskerk/Jansz/Rochecombe Group. (Will go to a separate winery entry in future editions.)S Tasmanian seafoodX 4559Y 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania N Sparkling X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Rochecombe RV Sparkling Rochecombe Vineyard $21-25 14/7/98 25/2/98 Rochecombe Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium straw-yellow; a fine, crisp bouquet with mineral, bread and biscuit aromas is followed by a lively palate with citrus, lemon and apple fruit running through a lingering finish; has considerable finesse. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium straw-yellow; a fine, crisp bouquet with mineral, bread and biscuit aromas is followed by a lively palate with citrus, lemon and apple fruit running through a lingering finish; has considerable finesse.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 RymillP 23QaA blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which spends two years on yeast lees prior to disgorgement.S AperitifX 4560Y 14/7/98a Coonawarra Coonawarra X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Rymill Coonawarra Brut Rymill $21-25 14/7/98 25/2/98 Rymill [4wine glasses] 1995 Light straw yellow, with good mousse; the bouquet is clean, and pleasantly fruity, with citrus peach aromas. The nicely balanced palate is fresh, with citrus and apple flavours, good length and good mouthfeel. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Light straw yellow, with good mousse; the bouquet is clean, and pleasantly fruity, with citrus peach aromas. The nicely balanced palate is fresh, with citrus and apple flavours, good length and good mouthfeel.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Stephen JohnP Stephen John's strength, these days, lies emphatically with the red wines, rather than the white. As with the Shiraz, fruit, rather than oak, drives the wine.S Braised beefX 4561Y 10/7/98a Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Stephen John Cabernet Sauvignon Stephen John Wines 10/7/98 25/2/98 Stephen John Wines [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a strong, dense blackberry, cassis and chocolate bouquet is followed by a smooth but flavoursome palate neither extractive or tannic. Despite its approachability now, will age well. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a strong, dense blackberry, cassis and chocolate bouquet is followed by a smooth but flavoursome palate neither extractive or tannic. Despite its approachability now, will age well.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Stumpy GullyP 18QJAnother powerful Pinot from the 97 vintage, perhaps a little too much so.S Coq au vinX 4562Y 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Stumpy Gully Pinot Noir Stumpy Gully $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Stumpy Gully f[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is concentrated, with briary/plummy fruit and a touch of meat extract. The palate is quite massive, with distinct briary/earthy notes, an echo of that meat extract character of the bouquet. For all that, does have character and may provide an interesting glass when at its peak. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is concentrated, with briary/plummy fruit and a touch of meat extract. The palate is quite massive, with distinct briary/earthy notes, an echo of that meat extract character of the bouquet. For all that, does have character and may provide an interesting glass when at its peak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Temple BruerP 14.70 Although labelled Cabernet Merlot, the wine is in fact a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, in 1995 59%, 28% and 13% respectively. S MoussakaX 4563Y 14/7/98a Langhorne Creek Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Temple Bruer Cabernet Merlot Temple Bruer $11-15 14/7/98 25/2/98 Temple Bruer [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with smooth, dark berry fruit and some caramel oak overtones. The palate is clean and soft, with pleasant dark berry fruit flavours and more of that gently sweet oak. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, with smooth, dark berry fruit and some caramel oak overtones. The palate is clean and soft, with pleasant dark berry fruit flavours and more of that gently sweet oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Tipperary HillP Comes from 1 hectare of estate plantings. Contrary to normal practice, the wine is matured in French (rather than American) oak.S Spiced lambX 4564Y 14/7/98a Bendigo Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Tipperary Hill Shiraz Tipperary Hill Estate $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Tipperary Hill Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red; an attractive marriage of sweet cherry fruit and vanilla oak on the bouquet, followed by lively cherry and mint fruit on a clean, albeit slightly short, palate. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red; an attractive marriage of sweet cherry fruit and vanilla oak on the bouquet, followed by lively cherry and mint fruit on a clean, albeit slightly short, palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Tipperary HillP A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, fermented in open fermenters and hand-plunged. Matured for 12 months in French oak (Troncais).S Beef spare ribsX 4565Y 14/7/98a Bendigo N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Tipperary Hill Cabernets Tipperary Hill Estate $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Tipperary Hill Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is quite ripe (and riper than the 96) with sweet blackberry/liquorice fruit. The palate, too, is quite rich, with ripe plum and blackberry fruit, allied with pronounced tannins. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is quite ripe (and riper than the 96) with sweet blackberry/liquorice fruit. The palate, too, is quite rich, with ripe plum and blackberry fruit, allied with pronounced tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Trentham EstateP Quite simply, a testament to Tony Murphy's winemaking skills, with far more character and weight than one normally associates with Riverland red wines.S PizzaX 4566Y 10/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Trentham Estate Shiraz Trentham Estate 10/7/98 25/2/98 Trentham Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red; the bouquet is rich, with blackberry, briar and liquorice varietal fruit, moving more to cherry, blackberry and mint on the palate. Gentle oak and soft tannins round off a pleasing wine. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red; the bouquet is rich, with blackberry, briar and liquorice varietal fruit, moving more to cherry, blackberry and mint on the palate. Gentle oak and soft tannins round off a pleasing wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Darlington EstateP 18.90Q Produced from a little over 1 hectare of estate plantings and spends 18 months in French oak. Has been one of the most successful of the Darlington Estate wines over the years.S Roast lambX 4567Y 14/7/98a Perth Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _$Darlington Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Darlington Estate $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Darlington Estate 5[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, showing varietal character in a fairly austere mode, with a mix of red berry, earth and briar aromas. The palate runs through the same spectrum, together with hints of leaf and olive, with a clean finish and aftertaste. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is clean, showing varietal character in a fairly austere mode, with a mix of red berry, earth and briar aromas. The palate runs through the same spectrum, together with hints of leaf and olive, with a clean finish and aftertaste.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Darlington EstateP 19.90 QiBarrel-fermented in French oak, and produced from 1.4 hectares of fully mature, steeply sloping vineyard.S Honey chickenX 4568Y 14/7/98a Perth Hills Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Darlington Estate Chardonnay Darlington Estate $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Darlington Estate [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; there is abundant spicy/charry oak on the bouquet with notes of honey and toast. The palate provides the same mix of charry oak, honey, and some mineral notes. Not fleshy, but well-enough made. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; there is abundant spicy/charry oak on the bouquet with notes of honey and toast. The palate provides the same mix of charry oak, honey, and some mineral notes. Not fleshy, but well-enough made.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Evans FamilyP 22.50 aProduced from the small hillside block in front of the Evans family home planted and subsequently managed to Brian Croser's specifications, conspicuously with permanent grass between the rows. The consequence has always been low-yielding vines, which in 1997 yielded around half a tonne to the acre. This is the Arnold Schwarzenegger of all Pinot Noirs. NAU Wild boarX 4569Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Hillside Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _ Evans Family Hillside Pinot Noir Evans Family $21-25 14/7/98 25/2/98 Evans Family [3wine glasses] 1997 Dense purple-red; the bouquet is as extraordinary as the colour, dense, and like a super-ripe Shiraz. The palate is massively powerful and massively tannic; unless I were not absolutely sure of its provenance, I could never believe this wine was made from Pinot Noir. Perhaps in 20 years its muscles will relax, and some varietal character creep out. I wonder whether Maurice O'Shea ever had material like this to work with, and what he might have done with it. RATIB NG: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Dense purple-red; the bouquet is as extraordinary as the colour, dense, and like a super-ripe Shiraz. The palate is massively powerful and massively tannic; unless I were not absolutely sure of its provenance, I could never believe this wine was made from Pinot Noir. Perhaps in 20 years its muscles will relax, and some varietal character creep out. I wonder whether Maurice O'Shea ever had material like this to work with, and what he might have done with it.<t9B>h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 RedgateP OFS is Our Finest Selection , coming from the best of the 3 hectares of estate plantings. It is an extremely interesting wine, showing characters far closer to the normal perception of Sauvignon Blanc, but in a soft mode.S Salmon mousseX 4570Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Redgate OFS Semillon Redgate $21-25 14/7/98 25/2/98 Redgate <[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; there are complex aromas, with hints of gooseberry and passionfruit and which are quite sweet. The palate is clean, with pleasant soft/tropical flavours, and a slightly short finish. All in all, unusual for Semillon, but an attractive mouthful. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there are complex aromas, with hints of gooseberry and passionfruit and which are quite sweet. The palate is clean, with pleasant soft/tropical flavours, and a slightly short finish. All in all, unusual for Semillon, but an attractive mouthful. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 RedgateP Comes from the best of the 3 hectares of estate plantings, and is barrel-fermented. The 97 came from a low-yielding year, with the crop 40% down on normal.S Stir-fried prawnsX 4571Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Reserve Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Redgate Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Redgate $21-25 14/7/98 25/2/98 Redgate B[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft, with sweet gooseberry fruit and evident but not intrusive oak. The palate shows the effect of barrel fermentation in the feel and texture as much as it does in terms of flavour, which is no bad thing. Once again, pleasant gooseberry fruit. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is soft, with sweet gooseberry fruit and evident but not intrusive oak. The palate shows the effect of barrel fermentation in the feel and texture as much as it does in terms of flavour, which is no bad thing. Once again, pleasant gooseberry fruit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Simon HackettP A special bottling named in memory of Simon Hackett's late brother. Appropriately, significantly the best of the current releases from Simon Hackett.S Spiced lambX 4572Y 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA McLaren Vale Anthony s Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _3Simon Hackett McLaren Vale Anthony s Reserve Shiraz Simon Hackett $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Simon Hackett 2[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is complex, with quite unusual dusty, clove/spice aromas together with hints of leaf. The palate has spicy/leafy/berry fruit flavours offset by pleasantly sweet American oak, but does show all of the signs of a cool McLaren Vale site. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is complex, with quite unusual dusty, clove/spice aromas together with hints of leaf. The palate has spicy/leafy/berry fruit flavours offset by pleasantly sweet American oak, but does show all of the signs of a cool McLaren Vale site.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Yarra YarraP A blend of 70% Semillon, fermented and aged for 15 months in 30% new, the remainder in older, French oak barriques. A number of different yeasts including wild yeasts are used and the wine is left on lees and stirred regularly.S Weiner schnitzelX 4573Y 14/7/98 Yarra Valley Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _$Yarra Yarra Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Yarra Yarra $21-25 14/7/98 25/2/98 Yarra Yarra [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows an attractive blend of gooseberry fruit and spicy oak, harmonious and balanced. The palate has abundant tangy, fresh fruit offset by nutmeg oak. Heaps of flavour, but not aggressive. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows an attractive blend of gooseberry fruit and spicy oak, harmonious and balanced. The palate has abundant tangy, fresh fruit offset by nutmeg oak. Heaps of flavour, but not aggressive.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Seppelt Great WesternP DFirst made in 1991, utilising grapes grown in premium cool-climate Victorian regions, and 100% barrel-fermented in new and one-year-old French oak barriques. Matured on its yeast lees for nine months. In 1996 the grapes came from Great Western, Strathbogie Ranges and Drumborg. A much under rated and under-appreciated wine. Fish mornayX 4574Y 14/7/98a Grampians Corella Ridge Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _.Seppelt Great Western Corella Ridge Chardonnay Seppelt Great Western $11-15 14/7/98 25/2/98 Seppelt Great Western %[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; obvious barrel-ferment oak inputs do not swamp the fruit on the bouquet, and on the palate tangy melon and citrus varietal flavours drive the wine through to a long finish with find acid. Here the oak input is very much in restraint. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; obvious barrel-ferment oak inputs do not swamp the fruit on the bouquet, and on the palate tangy melon and citrus varietal flavours drive the wine through to a long finish with find acid. Here the oak input is very much in restraint.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 N Ray-MondeP 24.90Q Made using what John Lakey describes as 'low technology', with open fermenters, hand-plunging, and ageing in French oak, part new, most first and second use.S Grilled Tasmanian salmonX 4575Y 14/7/98a Sunbury Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Ray-Monde Pinot Noir c Ray-Monde $21-25 14/7/98 25/2/98 % Ray-Monde @[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fragrant, with some slippery, almost citrussy overtones to the plum, berry and mint aromas of the bouquet. The palate has distinctive style and feel, lively and tingling, with plum, cherry and mint flavours. Just made it over the edge of ripeness. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is fragrant, with some slippery, almost citrussy overtones to the plum, berry and mint aromas of the bouquet. The palate has distinctive style and feel, lively and tingling, with plum, cherry and mint flavours. Just made it over the edge of ripeness.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 AskerneP 15.50Q Made with the clear intention of obtaining every ounce of fruit aroma and flavour, and succeeding in so doing, even if at the expense of some slow ferment characters.S Crab mornayX 4576Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Askerne Sauvignon Blanc Askerne $11-15 14/7/98 25/2/98 Askerne [4wine glasses] 1997 Light straw-yellow; a voluminous, highly charged bouquet with lots of passionfruit, and slightly sweaty overtones. The palate, too, is flavoursome in the extreme, with gooseberry and passionfruit, cloying fractionally on the finish. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light straw-yellow; a voluminous, highly charged bouquet with lots of passionfruit, and slightly sweaty overtones. The palate, too, is flavoursome in the extreme, with gooseberry and passionfruit, cloying fractionally on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 AskerneP 15.50QlRefreshingly different in style to the Sauvignon Blanc, although with substantially less flavour and impact.S MusselsX 4577Y 14/7/98 Hawke s Bay Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand _ Askerne Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Askerne $11-15 14/7/98 25/2/98 Askerne [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; light, crisp mineral aromas with just a touch of passionfruit lead into a lively, distinctly minerally and pleasantly dry palate, with a clean finish. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; light, crisp mineral aromas with just a touch of passionfruit lead into a lively, distinctly minerally and pleasantly dry palate, with a clean finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Clifford BayP 0Grown on river terraces adjoining the Awatere River, and not harvested until 1 May. Fifteen per cent of the wine is barrel-fermented in new French oak barriques, the remainder in stainless steel. A richly deserving winner of gold medals at the 1997 Air New Zealand National Wine Show and at Christchurch. Sugar-cured tunaX 4578Y 10/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc Clifford Bay 10/7/98 25/2/98 Clifford Bay _[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; delicious, soft gooseberry/passionfruit/tropical aromas are complexed by just a subtle hint of spicy oak on the bouquet. The multiflavoured palate is equally good, with a touch of herb to go along with the tropical fruit, that hint of oak spice, and perfect acidity on the finish. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; delicious, soft gooseberry/passionfruit/tropical aromas are complexed by just a subtle hint of spicy oak on the bouquet. The multiflavoured palate is equally good, with a touch of herb to go along with the tropical fruit, that hint of oak spice, and perfect acidity on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Cross RoadsP 20.40Q As one would expect, has distinctly more weight and complexity than the varietal release, benefiting from better fruit and obvious winemaker inputs through the full cavalcade of barrel ferment, lees contact and malolactic fermentation. S KasslerX 4579Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Cross Roads Reserve Chardonnay Cross Roads Winery $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Cross Roads Winery [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with abundant cashew and melon aromas, the palate likewise complex and structured, with strong cashew/hazelnut barrel ferment and malolactic ferment derivatives. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is complex, with abundant cashew and melon aromas, the palate likewise complex and structured, with strong cashew/hazelnut barrel ferment and malolactic ferment derivatives. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Cross RoadsP 20.40Q A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, with the clever use of oak to sweeten up the wine. A silver medal winner at the 1997 Air New Zealand Wine Show.S Grilled calf's liverX 4580Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand _#Cross Roads Reserve Cabernet Merlot Cross Roads Winery $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Cross Roads Winery @[3.5wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, quite sweet, with vanilla overtones. The soft, clean medium-bodied palate has cedar, leaf and berry flavours. May have suffered as a result of being tasted in the middle of a forest of Australian red wines. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-purple; the bouquet is of light to medium intensity, quite sweet, with vanilla overtones. The soft, clean medium-bodied palate has cedar, leaf and berry flavours. May have suffered as a result of being tasted in the middle of a forest of Australian red wines.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 de GyffardeP First made in 1995, with the third vintage moving closer to Rod Lofthouse's stated aim of winning a gold medal, the 1997 receiving a silver medal at the 1997 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. S Thai prawnsX 4581Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand de Gyffarde Sauvignon Blanc de Gyffarde $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 de Gyffarde "[4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp and clean, on the herbal side, with lemon and capsicum aromas. The palate shows some slightly riper flavours with gooseberry and lemon, and has particularly good mouthfeel and balance, and a long, clean finish. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is crisp and clean, on the herbal side, with lemon and capsicum aromas. The palate shows some slightly riper flavours with gooseberry and lemon, and has particularly good mouthfeel and balance, and a long, clean finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 FraminghamP 16.95Q Classic Riesling is the Jekyll of Jekyll and Hyde, formerly the first part of a single wine called Classic Dry Riesling. As from 1997 the Classic has its own life, produced with 10 grams per litre of residual sugar, just above threshold level.S GravlaxX 4582Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Classic Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Framingham Classic Riesling Framingham $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Framingham [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the aromas are quite complex, running through spice, lime and citrus, with similar flavours on the palate. That barely perceptible touch of residual sugar does flesh out the finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the aromas are quite complex, running through spice, lime and citrus, with similar flavours on the palate. That barely perceptible touch of residual sugar does flesh out the finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 FraminghamP 18.95Q The Dr Hyde of the split personality, with 5 grams per litre of residual sugar a distinction, incidentally, which is nowhere explained on the label (front or back) of the wines, which will no doubt add to the already considerable confusion.S NAU AsparagusX 4583Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Framingham Dry Riesling Framingham $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Framingham [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with mineral, spice and a hint of lime, of light to medium intensity. The palate is elegant, with light, spicy minerally/toasty flavours, and a particularly long finish. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with mineral, spice and a hint of lime, of light to medium intensity. The palate is elegant, with light, spicy minerally/toasty flavours, and a particularly long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 FraminghamP 16.95Q?Made in a no-frills style, but with some quite excellent fruit.S Fried oystersX 4584Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Framingham Sauvignon Blanc Framingham $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Framingham [4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; a spotlessly clean, crisp bouquet with mineral, herb and lemon aromas is followed a crisp palate with good length and structure, offering gooseberry and a touch of capsicum on the back palate. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; a spotlessly clean, crisp bouquet with mineral, herb and lemon aromas is followed a crisp palate with good length and structure, offering gooseberry and a touch of capsicum on the back palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Harrier RiseP The 2 hectares of estate Cabernet Franc is used to produce three wines: a 100% varietal, a premium half and half Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc blend, and as a 30% component in a Merlot (45%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) blend. The varietal Cabernet Franc is now matured in French oak. PastramiX 4585Y 10/7/98a Auckland Area Cabernet Franc Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand Harrier Rise Cabernet Franc Harrier Rise Vineyard 10/7/98 25/2/98 Harrier Rise Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a clean bouquet with a varietally correct mix of cedar, earth, forest and tobacco aromas, leads into an attractive, quite firm palate with red berry notes, tobacco, and soft, ripe tannins a valuable commodity in New Zealand. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a clean bouquet with a varietally correct mix of cedar, earth, forest and tobacco aromas, leads into an attractive, quite firm palate with red berry notes, tobacco, and soft, ripe tannins a valuable commodity in New Zealand.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Harrier RiseP As with the Cabernet Franc, the 3 hectares of estate merlot has split usage, partly as a varietal, and partly as the dominant portion of the Merlot Cabernets blend.S NAU Baby lambX 4586Y 10/7/98a Auckland Area M Uppercase Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand Harrier Rise Uppercase Merlot Harrier Rise Vineyard 10/7/98 25/2/98 Harrier Rise Vineyard ![4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is deliciously sweet with red berry fruit and perfectly integrated and balanced oak. The palate is similarly soft and sweet, with red berry/raspberry flavours; fully ripe, with no hint of the New Zealand greens. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is deliciously sweet with red berry fruit and perfectly integrated and balanced oak. The palate is similarly soft and sweet, with red berry/raspberry flavours; fully ripe, with no hint of the New Zealand greens.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Highfield EstateP Part of the newly introduced premium range from Highfield Estate, and a proverbial country mile better than the standard varietal release.S NAU&Fresh asparagus with hollandaise sauceX 4587Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Elstree Reserve Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _0Highfield Estate Elstree Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Highfield Estate $21-25 14/7/98 25/2/98 Highfield Estate $[4wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet is light, crisp and minerally, not especially fruity, but clean and without volatility. The palate is lively, with an attractive mix of capsicum, gooseberry and some faintly spicy characters. Finishes with bright acidity. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet is light, crisp and minerally, not especially fruity, but clean and without volatility. The palate is lively, with an attractive mix of capsicum, gooseberry and some faintly spicy characters. Finishes with bright acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Highfield EstateP A blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir which spends three years on yeast lees prior to disgorgement. Another wine in the Elstree range which deserves the premium rating.S Fresh shellfishX 4588Y 10/7/98a Marlborough Elstree X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand Highfield Estate Elstree Cuv Highfield Estate 10/7/98 25/2/98 Highfield Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1994 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with gentle autolysis characters and fruit neutral. The wine opens up on the palate, with intense citrus flavours on the back palate, and a classically long, lingering finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1994 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with gentle autolysis characters and fruit neutral. The wine opens up on the palate, with intense citrus flavours on the back palate, and a classically long, lingering finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Highfield EstateP 24.95 BThe classic blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc (together with a little Muscadelle) of Sauternes is surprisingly rare in Australasia; for some reason, Sauvignon Blanc does not often respond to botrytis. So not only is this an uncommon blend in this part of the world, but is an extremely interesting wine in style terms. NAU Rich cakeX 4589Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Elstree Botrytised Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Sweet Sweet New Zealand _<Highfield Estate Elstree Botrytised Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Highfield Estate $21-25 14/7/98 25/2/98 Highfield Estate =[4wine glasses] 1995 Deep burnished gold; the bouquet ranges through toffee, cumquat and mandarin, a cross between Sauternes and (Hungarian) Tokaji in style. Those cumquat toffee and mandarin flavours also come through on the richly flavoured palate, which is of moderate sweetness and good acidity. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Deep burnished gold; the bouquet ranges through toffee, cumquat and mandarin, a cross between Sauternes and (Hungarian) Tokaji in style. Those cumquat toffee and mandarin flavours also come through on the richly flavoured palate, which is of moderate sweetness and good acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Pegasus BayP The hand-picked grapes are whole-bunch pressed, and the wine is fermented in a mix of new and used French oak barriques. Part is not inoculated with yeast, but utilises indigenous yeast, and the wine undergoes a partial but natural malolactic fermentation on lees. Baked fishX 4592Y 14/7/98a Canterbury Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Pegasus Bay Chardonnay Pegasus Bay $26-50 14/7/98 25/2/98 Pegasus Bay 8[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is quite intense and complex, with nutty, ripe peach and melon fruit, together with subtle oak. The palate shows lots of winemaker work, but has slightly abrasive aspects to the nut and melon flavours; the overall acidity is high. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is quite intense and complex, with nutty, ripe peach and melon fruit, together with subtle oak. The palate shows lots of winemaker work, but has slightly abrasive aspects to the nut and melon flavours; the overall acidity is high.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Cliff HouseP The 1997 vintage played some strange tricks on Tasmanian Riesling, with all sorts of characters appearing, many unconventional but far from unattractive.S Spicy Asian foodX 4593Y 10/7/98a Northern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Cliff House Riesling Cliff House 10/7/98 25/2/98 Cliff House [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a very spicy, almost nutmeg-like aroma; striking. On the palate intense lime, spice and herb flavours flood the mouth. Formidable on its own, but excellent with the appropriate food. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a very spicy, almost nutmeg-like aroma; striking. On the palate intense lime, spice and herb flavours flood the mouth. Formidable on its own, but excellent with the appropriate food.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Sterling HeightsP Yet another Riesling from the 1997 vintage to show some unconventional but nonetheless attractive flavours, with the decision taken to retain considerable sweetness in the wine. Scored strongly at the 1998 Tasmanian Wines Show.S Pork with gingerX 4594Y 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Sterling Heights Riesling Sterling Heights $16-20 14/7/98 25/2/98 Sterling Heights [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; a potent spice and herb bouquet is followed by an exceptionally powerful palate with lots of extract, flavour and abundant fruit on the mid to back palate, augmented by significant residual sugar. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; a potent spice and herb bouquet is followed by an exceptionally powerful palate with lots of extract, flavour and abundant fruit on the mid to back palate, augmented by significant residual sugar.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 St MatthiasP 15.95 Yet another wine to show the use of substantial residual sugar to balance the high acidity of Northern Tasmanian Riesling in the 1997 vintage. Topped its class at the 1998 Tasmanian Wines Show, just edging out the Sterling Heights, although neither wine was awarded a gold medal. Chinese pork with gingerX 4595Y 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia St Matthias Riesling St Matthias $11-15 14/7/98 25/2/98 St Matthias [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth, with lime, citrus and passionfruit aromas, the palate having good weight and length, running through soft lime and lemon fruit, building towards the finish with some cleverly controlled sweetness. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth, with lime, citrus and passionfruit aromas, the palate having good weight and length, running through soft lime and lemon fruit, building towards the finish with some cleverly controlled sweetness.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Kinvarra EstateP 13.50Q Produced, needless to say, in minuscule quantities each year. Unusually, in 1997 the wine was made from cordon cut vines following a frost on April 14, which killed all the leaves.S NAU ShellfishX 4596Y 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Kinvarra Estate Riesling Kinvarra Estate $11-15 14/7/98 25/2/98 Kinvarra Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, with pronounced earthy/minerally characters, and the fruit somewhat diminished. The palate is delicate, but does have length, with crisp minerally flavours, finishing with pronounced acidity. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light, with pronounced earthy/minerally characters, and the fruit somewhat diminished. The palate is delicate, but does have length, with crisp minerally flavours, finishing with pronounced acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 BellinghamP Until mid-1997 Bellingham had small stocks of the 94 and 96 vintages of Riesling for sale at cellar door. A five-star review for the 1990 in Winestate magazine led to the immediate demise of the 1990, but micro stocks of the 94 and slightly better quantities of the 96 were still available in early 1998. The latter vintage received a well-deserved silver medal at the 1998 Tasmanian Wines Show. Spring rollsX 4597Y 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Bellingham Riesling Bellingham Vineyards e under $10 14/7/98 25/2/98 Bellingham Vineyards [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and smooth, and moderately intense, the palate following the same track with predominantly lime and toast flavours, and just a hint of Tasmanian mineral underneath. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and smooth, and moderately intense, the palate following the same track with predominantly lime and toast flavours, and just a hint of Tasmanian mineral underneath.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Hawley VineyardP Together with most other wine-writers and wine judges in Australia, I shrink at the very mention of unwooded Chardonnay, but every now and then one comes along which suggests the style has legitimacy. This is one such wine.S White-fleshed fishX 4598Y 10/7/98a Northern Tasmania Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _#Hawley Vineyard Unwooded Chardonnay Hawley Vineyard 10/7/98 25/2/98 Hawley Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; crystal clear, albeit light, melon varietal character is followed by a light, lively melon-flavoured palate. Given the terrible vintage, a first-class outcome. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; crystal clear, albeit light, melon varietal character is followed by a light, lively melon-flavoured palate. Given the terrible vintage, a first-class outcome.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 WellingtonP XProduced using freeze concentration of the unfermented juice in a stainless steel tank. Water freezes first, and is removed in solid form, lifting the sugar, acidity (and flavour) of the remaining juice which is then conventionally cold-fermented. Awarded the trophy for Best Unwooded Table Wine (Dry or Sweet) at the 1998 Tasmanian Wines Show. Poached peachesX 4599Y 10/7/98a Southern Tasmania Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia Wellington Iced Riesling Wellington 10/7/98 26/2/98 Wellington [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Bright, light green-yellow; both aromatic and flavoursome, with a beguiling mix of lime and white peach flavours, spotlessly clean and well balanced with pleasantly soft acidity. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Bright, light green-yellow; both aromatic and flavoursome, with a beguiling mix of lime and white peach flavours, spotlessly clean and well balanced with pleasantly soft acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 Moorilla EstateP So far as I am aware, a recent introduction into the Moorilla Estate range, and on the evidence of the 96 vintage, significantly superior to the varietal (or standard) release. S Breast of squabX 4600Y 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _"Moorilla Estate Reserve Pinot Noir Moorilla Estate $26-50 14/7/98 26/2/98 Moorilla Estate '[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red, with just a touch of purple. The clean but intense bouquet has strong varietal fruit, the palate depth, weight and considerable lusciousness to the solid plummy fruit. Some earthy foresty secondary characters are starting to build, too. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red, with just a touch of purple. The clean but intense bouquet has strong varietal fruit, the palate depth, weight and considerable lusciousness to the solid plummy fruit. Some earthy foresty secondary characters are starting to build, too.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Austin's BarraboolP AnA wine which distinguished itself (on my score sheet, at least) at the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Competition. Marinated scallopsX 4601Y 14/7/98a Geelong Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Austin's Barrabool Riesling Austin's Barrabool $11-15 14/7/98 26/2/98 Austin's Barrabool [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light but crisp, with fine lime and toast aromas, the palate with interesting lime/lemon tingle flavours; good weight, length and balance. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is light but crisp, with fine lime and toast aromas, the palate with interesting lime/lemon tingle flavours; good weight, length and balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 Tuck's RidgeP The warm and dry conditions of the 1997 vintage were ideal for the Mornington Peninsula, and in particular for the late-ripening Riesling. S GravlaxX 4602Y 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Tuck's Ridge Riesling Tuck's Ridge $16-20 14/7/98 26/2/98 Tuck's Ridge [3wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is solid and rich, with lime juice aromas, the palate likewise showing powerful spicy lime fruit, although there is gripping acidity on the finish. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is solid and rich, with lime juice aromas, the palate likewise showing powerful spicy lime fruit, although there is gripping acidity on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Lengs & CooterP 13.99Q\I applaud the decision to leave Semillon to its own devices, and not clutter it up with oak.S Seafood saladX 4603Y 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Clare Valley Unwooded Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _-Lengs & Cooter Clare Valley Unwooded Semillon Lengs & Cooter $11-15 14/7/98 26/2/98 Lengs & Cooter [3wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is powerful, with intense herbal/lemon varietal character. The palate, too, is powerful and long, albeit with a fraction of bitterness on the finish which may settle down with time. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is powerful, with intense herbal/lemon varietal character. The palate, too, is powerful and long, albeit with a fraction of bitterness on the finish which may settle down with time.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 Brindabella HillsP 16.50Q One hundred per cent estate-grown, with the components picked over a range of degrees of ripeness, cold fermented to dryness and early bottled. S GravlaxX 4604Y 14/7/98a Canberra District Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _*Brindabella Hills Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Brindabella Hills $16-20 14/7/98 26/2/98 Brindabella Hills [4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet has a range of aromas running from herbal through to lime and lemon blossom; medium intensity. The well-flavoured palate shows a similar mix of herbal and riper flavours, no doubt reflecting the varietal mix. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet has a range of aromas running from herbal through to lime and lemon blossom; medium intensity. The well-flavoured palate shows a similar mix of herbal and riper flavours, no doubt reflecting the varietal mix. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 TaitP A voluptuous, early-developing Barossa-style which stood out at the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Competition. It is hand-picked at around 14 baum , crushed and drained overnight and barrel-fermented for three to four weeks before being transferred to tank and bottled in August. Roast chickenX 4605Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Tait Chardonnay Tait Wines $11-15 14/7/98 1/3/98 Tait Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; a complex, rich and powerful bouquet with tangy fruit and spicy nutmeg oak. The palate is powerful and rich, with masses of peach and nectarine fruit flavour; there is a viscosity to the mouthfeel, and a long finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; a complex, rich and powerful bouquet with tangy fruit and spicy nutmeg oak. The palate is powerful and rich, with masses of peach and nectarine fruit flavour; there is a viscosity to the mouthfeel, and a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Pendarves EstateP While not looking good at the 1997 Hunter Valley Wine Show (prior to bottling), scored well at the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Competition, at once showing, yet rising above, the effects of the difficult, rain-affected vintage.S ed prawnsX 4606Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Pendarves Estate Chardonnay Pendarves Estate $16-20 14/7/98 1/3/98 Pendarves Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is powerful, with slightly herbaceous overtones to the tangy fruit. The palate has intensity and power, although admittedly in the green spectrum. Long finish; subtle oak. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is powerful, with slightly herbaceous overtones to the tangy fruit. The palate has intensity and power, although admittedly in the green spectrum. Long finish; subtle oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Arlewood EstateP 19QdThe only red wine from Arlewood Estate but on the evidence of the 1996, an extremely creditable one.S Braised beef with olivesX 4607Y 14/7/98a Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _"Arlewood Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Arlewood Estate $16-20 14/7/98 1/3/98 Arlewood Estate [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a rich and concentrated bouquet with cassis, berry and spice aromas with well-balanced oak. The palate ranges through flavours of spice, leaf, mint and cassis, finishing with quite firm but not overly aggressive tannins. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a rich and concentrated bouquet with cassis, berry and spice aromas with well-balanced oak. The palate ranges through flavours of spice, leaf, mint and cassis, finishing with quite firm but not overly aggressive tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 MaxwellP The prestige Cabernet from Maxwell, the 96 vintage being the runner-up in the Cabernet Class at the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Competition. Rare rump steakX 4608Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale M Lime Cave Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _$Maxwell Lime Cave Cabernet Sauvignon Maxwell Wines $11-15 14/7/98 1/3/98 Maxwell Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is dense, with masses of ripe blackberry/blackcurrant fruit, the palate showing similarly abundant sweet blackberry, blackcurrant and chocolate fruit supported by persistent tannins and nicely judged oak. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is dense, with masses of ripe blackberry/blackcurrant fruit, the palate showing similarly abundant sweet blackberry, blackcurrant and chocolate fruit supported by persistent tannins and nicely judged oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Coolangatta EstateP QaA surprise performer (on my score sheet at least) at the 1998 Winewise Small Makers Competition. S Beef stroganoffX 4609Y 14/7/98a Shoalhaven Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _"Coolangatta Estate Cabernet Shiraz Coolangatta Estate $16-20 14/7/98 1/3/98 Coolangatta Estate c[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite fragrant with seductive oak, so much so it is difficult to tell whether the spicy characters come from the fruit or the oak. The palate shows the similarly clever use of sweet spicy oak together with sweet red berry fruit and soft tannins. Good mouthfeel and length. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is quite fragrant with seductive oak, so much so it is difficult to tell whether the spicy characters come from the fruit or the oak. The palate shows the similarly clever use of sweet spicy oak together with sweet red berry fruit and soft tannins. Good mouthfeel and length. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 N BremertonP NAQyDraws upon a little over 20 hectares of estate plantings. Matured in a mix of new and two-year-old French oak barriques. S Steak and kidney pieX 4610Y 10/7/98a Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Bremerton Cabernet Sauvignon Bremerton Wines 10/7/98 1/3/98 Bremerton Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; solid, sweet blackberry and plum fruit aromas lead into an equally solid and sweet plum, blackberry and blackcurrant-flavoured palate, aided by soft, sweet oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; solid, sweet blackberry and plum fruit aromas lead into an equally solid and sweet plum, blackberry and blackcurrant-flavoured palate, aided by soft, sweet oak. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Stringy BraeP NAQANow produced entirely from 1.6 hectares of estate-grown Cabernet.S Chump chopsX 4611Y 10/7/98a Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Stringy Brae Cabernet Sauvignon Stringy Brae 10/7/98 1/3/98 Stringy Brae C[4wine glasses] 1996 Dark purple-red; the bouquet is powerful and complex with a range of briary/earthy/dark berry fruit aromas. The wine is quite sweet and succulent on the mid-palate, with dark chocolate and berry fruit before finishing with slightly hard tannins which will (hopefully) soften with age. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Dark purple-red; the bouquet is powerful and complex with a range of briary/earthy/dark berry fruit aromas. The wine is quite sweet and succulent on the mid-palate, with dark chocolate and berry fruit before finishing with slightly hard tannins which will (hopefully) soften with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Lengs & CooterP 17.99 lSwinton takes its name from a property established by the forefathers of the proprietors in 1849 in the Sturt River Gorge of the Coromandel Valley. The property was subdivided in the late 1960s, but a small planting of cabernet sauvignon was established in 1971, and it is this planting, blended with Shiraz and Merlot from Blewitt Springs, which produces Swinton. Leave it in the cellarX 4612Y 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Swinton Cabernet Blends Z Australia Lengs & Cooter Swinton Lengs & Cooter $16-20 14/7/98 1/3/98 Lengs & Cooter [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Dense red-purple; the bouquet shows massive fruit extract with dark berry/foresty/briary aromas, the palate exhibiting all these flavours together with liquorice and tannins. Truly, a 20-year proposition. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Dense red-purple; the bouquet shows massive fruit extract with dark berry/foresty/briary aromas, the palate exhibiting all these flavours together with liquorice and tannins. Truly, a 20-year proposition.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 CasellaP 14.95 Fully botrytised semillon was picked at 23 baum and cold fermented at 12 degrees in stainless steel. A powerful testament to the quality of Botrytis Semillon from the Riverina. Stuffed baked appleX 4613Y 14/7/98a Riverina Carramar Estate Botrytis Semillon Sweet Sweet Z Australia _)Casella Carramar Estate Botrytis Semillon Casella $11-15 14/7/98 5/3/98 Casella 2[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full yellow; rich mandarin, cumquat and apricot aromas precede a wine with complex honeycomb and cumquat flavour, well balanced by firm but not aggressive acidity. If there is any oak in the wine, it is not easy to see it, and it is none the worse for that. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow; rich mandarin, cumquat and apricot aromas precede a wine with complex honeycomb and cumquat flavour, well balanced by firm but not aggressive acidity. If there is any oak in the wine, it is not easy to see it, and it is none the worse for that.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Evans FamilyP 22.50Q The Evans Family continues to multiply, with an ideal aid to launching grandchildren. It may also prove to be the most appropriate end use for pinot noir from the estate. The statue, incidentally, is one of Len Evans' many creations.S Caviar and grandchildren 4614Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Statue Vineyard Pinot Noir thode Champenoise X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _;Evans Family Statue Vineyard Pinot Noir M thode Champenoise Evans Family $21-25 14/7/98 5/3/98 Evans Family [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Yellow-bronze colour, with no pink. The bouquet is solid and clean, with biscuity/nutty aromas, the palate full-flavoured, and good balance and length. The Pinot is far from aggressive, the wine well made. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Yellow-bronze colour, with no pink. The bouquet is solid and clean, with biscuity/nutty aromas, the palate full-flavoured, and good balance and length. The Pinot is far from aggressive, the wine well made.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Hermitage RoadP Produced from grapes grown on the Somerset Vineyard in Oakey Creek Road, with a yield of between 2 and 3 tonnes per acre. Cold fermented in stainless steel at 14 degrees for two weeks. The 97 vintage was picked mid-January, prior to the vintage rain.S Flathead filletsX 4615Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Reserve Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Hermitage Road Reserve Semillon Hermitage Road Wines $16-20 14/7/98 5/3/98 Hermitage Road Wines [4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; clean, classic, powerful semillon aromas with a mix of lemon, mineral and herb lead into a palate with considerable length and power, with citrussy undertones. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; clean, classic, powerful semillon aromas with a mix of lemon, mineral and herb lead into a palate with considerable length and power, with citrussy undertones. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Hermitage RoadP %One hundred per cent Hunter Valley Chardonnay, machine harvested at night. The major portion is barrel-fermented in new French and American oak barriques, with a lesser amount being taken through malolactic fermentation. Three months maturation in oak is followed by relatively early bottling. PastaX 4616Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Hermitage Road Reserve Chardonnay Hermitage Road Wines $11-15 14/7/98 5/3/98 Hermitage Road Wines *[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and aromatic with sweet peach and honey fruit. The palate has above average structure and length, with subtle oak handling a particular feature, and supporting the tangy, lightly peachy fruit; well-balanced acidity. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean and aromatic with sweet peach and honey fruit. The palate has above average structure and length, with subtle oak handling a particular feature, and supporting the tangy, lightly peachy fruit; well-balanced acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Hermitage RoadP Something of a surprise packet, coming (predominantly, one suspects) from the Upper Hunter Valley, and which spent 11 months in a mix of French and American oak. If the making method followed that of the 96 Reserve Merlot, a portion of the juice would have been run-off after pressing and before fermentation to concentrate the remaining wine. Whether or not this is so the 97, the wine shows an altogether surprising character and style. GoulashX 4617Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Reserve Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Hermitage Road Reserve Merlot Hermitage Road Wines $11-15 14/7/98 5/3/98 Hermitage Road Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; pronounced leafy/berry merlot varietal aromas, with that faintly green/gamey edge which merlot so often has; the palate, likewise, shows definite varietal character and structure, with good feel and length. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; pronounced leafy/berry merlot varietal aromas, with that faintly green/gamey edge which merlot so often has; the palate, likewise, shows definite varietal character and structure, with good feel and length. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 $N KraanwoodP The first vintage of Kraanwood Pinot Noir in 1996 yielded 22 bottles, the second, in 1997 soaring to 66 bottles. Frank van der Kraan was kind enough to send me one of those bottles, and I am glad he did so.S Peking duckX 4618Y 10/7/98a Southern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Kraanwood Pinot Noir c Kraanwood 10/7/98 5/3/98 % Kraanwood R[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium purple-red; the bouquet shows strong, striking foresty/briary/plummy/stemmy aromas suggesting totat whole-bunch maceration. The palate is intense and high-toned with spice, liquorice, briar and plum flavours, the finish being fractionally hard at this juncture. Impressive micro-winemaking. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium purple-red; the bouquet shows strong, striking foresty/briary/plummy/stemmy aromas suggesting totat whole-bunch maceration. The palate is intense and high-toned with spice, liquorice, briar and plum flavours, the finish being fractionally hard at this juncture. Impressive micro-winemaking.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 Peter RumballP 1Made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from unspecified areas. Aged on lees for two years prior to disgorgement. A special liqueur developed by Peter Rumball is added at disgorgement, and which I suspect has a significant influence on the wine, which is richer, softer and more full-bodied than most. Smoked salmon omelette X 4619Y 10/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Pinot Noir Chardonnay X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _(Peter Rumball Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut Peter Rumball Wines 10/7/98 5/3/98 Peter Rumball Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Glowing yellow-green; a solid, full bouquet with toasty, almost oaky, aromas. The palate is full flavoured and rich, with balanced acidity on the finish. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; a solid, full bouquet with toasty, almost oaky, aromas. The palate is full flavoured and rich, with balanced acidity on the finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 RochfordP Sourced from a number of vineyards in the Macedon Ranges. The full range of Chardonnay winemaking techniques is applied to the wine.S NAU Baked hamX 4620Y 14/7/98a Macedon Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Rochford Chardonnay Rochford $26-50 14/7/98 5/3/98 Rochford .[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; there are strong toasty malolactic fermentation aromas overlying a more minerally, citrussy base. A well-made wine on the palate, with delicate slightly grassy/herbal characters together with citrus and melon fruit; crisp, high-acid finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; there are strong toasty malolactic fermentation aromas overlying a more minerally, citrussy base. A well-made wine on the palate, with delicate slightly grassy/herbal characters together with citrus and melon fruit; crisp, high-acid finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 'N WendoureeP One hundred per cent estate-grown from vines of varying ages, but none immature. A varying percentage of the wine is declassified each year. Five hundred cases made.S NAU Aged beefX 4621Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Wendouree Shiraz c Wendouree $26-50 14/7/98 5/3/98 % Wendouree [5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is highly scented, with pungent earth and mint aromas. Black cherry flavours progressively appeared through the powerful, earthy and tightly knit palate; awesome tannins. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is highly scented, with pungent earth and mint aromas. Black cherry flavours progressively appeared through the powerful, earthy and tightly knit palate; awesome tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 (N WendoureeP A blend of 80% Shiraz and 20% Malbec, with the same rigid fruit selection from old vines which is invariable Wendouree practice. Two hundred and fifty cases made.S NAU Aged beefX 4622Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Shiraz Malbec Shiraz Blends Z Australia Wendouree Shiraz Malbec c Wendouree $26-50 14/7/98 5/3/98 % Wendouree L[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is similar to that of the Shiraz, but with slightly softer dark berry fruit blending into that faintly jammy character of Malbec. On the palate the rich, juicy Malbec contribution is quite evident, yet the predominant structure is provided by the Shiraz. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is similar to that of the Shiraz, but with slightly softer dark berry fruit blending into that faintly jammy character of Malbec. On the palate the rich, juicy Malbec contribution is quite evident, yet the predominant structure is provided by the Shiraz.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 )N WendoureeP A blend of 80% Shiraz and 20% Mourvedre (Tony Brady, ever the traditionalist, clings doggedly to the Mataro dialectic name) a time-honoured blend with a history stretching back well over 100 years in South Australia, and very nearly that long at Wendouree. 500 cases made. NAU Aged beefX 4623Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Shiraz Mataro Shiraz Blends Z Australia Wendouree Shiraz Mataro c Wendouree $26-50 14/7/98 5/3/98 % Wendouree [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is stylish, with berry, earthy, mint and leaf aromas, the palate again showing some minty notes and an exceptionally long finish supported, needless to say, by abundant tannins. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full purple-red; the bouquet is stylish, with berry, earthy, mint and leaf aromas, the palate again showing some minty notes and an exceptionally long finish supported, needless to say, by abundant tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 *N WendoureeP Classic old-vine Clare Cabernet, unforced by oak, and probably needing longer than all of the other Wendouree wines to reveal its true character. Two hundred and fifty cases made.S NAU Aged beefX 4624Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Wendouree Cabernet Sauvignon c Wendouree $26-50 14/7/98 5/3/98 % Wendouree ,[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; a pungent, scented bouquet with a mix of herbaceous, cassis and earth aromas; the potent, herbal palate has undertones of mint, olive and cassis; all fairly angular and hard at this juncture, but will undoubtedly soften and flower with age. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a pungent, scented bouquet with a mix of herbaceous, cassis and earth aromas; the potent, herbal palate has undertones of mint, olive and cassis; all fairly angular and hard at this juncture, but will undoubtedly soften and flower with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 +N YarrabankP Made almost entirely from Pinot Noir (80%), with a small component of the 93 Cuv e blended prior to tiraging. The wine spent four years on lees prior to disgorgement. The curious spelling of Ros e is unique to Yarrabank. S Poached salmonX 4625Y 10/7/98a Yarra Valley e Ros X Sparkling Sparkling Red Z Australia Yarrabank Cuv e Ros c Yarrabank 10/7/98 5/3/98 % Yarrabank X[4.5wine glasses] 1993 Pale salmon onion skin; the bouquet is clean and crisp, with a mix of faintly nutty/strawberry aromas. The palate has excellent feel and texture, with delicate strawberry and spice flavours, and none of those meaty/Bonox characters which predominantly Pinot-based sparkling wines can sometimes acquire. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1993 <f"Bembo">Pale salmon onion skin; the bouquet is clean and crisp, with a mix of faintly nutty/strawberry aromas. The palate has excellent feel and texture, with delicate strawberry and spice flavours, and none of those meaty/Bonox characters which predominantly Pinot-based sparkling wines can sometimes acquire. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 Yarra YeringP Only Bailey Carrodus could come up with a name such as this for the first micro (but official) release of his vintage port, made from the classic Portuguese varieties planted on a single, dedicated vineyard immediately abutting his original plantings. When I first came to the Yarra Valley and planted Coldstream Hills in 1985, Bailey suggested to me I should plant the port varieties. I thought he was joking. Now I know he was not. As many friends as possibleX 4626Y 10/7/98a Yarra Valley M Portsorts X Fortified Z Australia Yarra Yering Portsorts Yarra Yering 10/7/98 5/3/98 Yarra Yering [5wine glasses] 1996 Deep, dense purple; the bouquet is pungent and intense with pepper, spice and blackberry aromas and classy spirit. The palate is intense and long, with a perfectly amazing finish, which seems to go on forever. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Deep, dense purple; the bouquet is pungent and intense with pepper, spice and blackberry aromas and classy spirit. The palate is intense and long, with a perfectly amazing finish, which seems to go on forever. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 VavasourP Selected from the three finest estate blocks, some being hand-harvested and whole-bunch pressed, others crushed in the conventional manner. Eight per cent is fermented in older French oak and kept on lees until blending and bottling.S 97U ShellfishX 4627Y 10/7/98a Marlborough Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _'Vavasour Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc Vavasour Wines 10/7/98 8/3/98 Vavasour Wines [5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is quite tight and powerful, with secondary mineral aromas, and just a touch of passionfruit. The palate is much more tightly constructed and longer than the Dashwood, with layered flavours. Classy and sophisticated. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is quite tight and powerful, with secondary mineral aromas, and just a touch of passionfruit. The palate is much more tightly constructed and longer than the Dashwood, with layered flavours. Classy and sophisticated.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 VavasourP Produced from Mendoza clone chardonnay grown in the Awatere Valley, hand-picked and part whole-bunch pressed. Fermentation is completed in French oak barriques, 15% new; 100% malolactic fermentation. The wine spends nine months in oak before being bottled. Milk-fed vealX 4628Y 10/7/98 Marlborough Awatere Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _"Vavasour Awatere Valley Chardonnay Vavasour Wines 10/7/98 8/3/98 Vavasour Wines $[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is complex with citrus, nectarine and apple fruit aromas. The palate is of medium weight, with some spicy oak evident, and fractionally less luscious than the bouquet promises, tending more to citrus and mineral. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is complex with citrus, nectarine and apple fruit aromas. The palate is of medium weight, with some spicy oak evident, and fractionally less luscious than the bouquet promises, tending more to citrus and mineral.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 BabichP .Produced from relatively low-yielding vineyards on the shingle soils to the west of Hastings, and rated as a classic by both Bob Campbell and Michael Cooper. The wine receives the full winemaking treatment, being barrel-fermented and held on lees for nine months, with evident malolactic fermentation. Boned spatchcockX 4629Y 14/7/98a Auckland Area Irongate Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Babich Irongate Chardonnay Babich $26-50 14/7/98 8/3/98 Babich `[4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; there is quite prominent toasty barrel ferment oak on the bouquet, but the oak stops short of being aggressive or out of balance, and on the palate there is abundant melon and cashew fruit, well balanced with above average length. A genuinely stylish wine of international quality. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there is quite prominent toasty barrel ferment oak on the bouquet, but the oak stops short of being aggressive or out of balance, and on the palate there is abundant melon and cashew fruit, well balanced with above average length. A genuinely stylish wine of international quality.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Te Mania EstateP Produced from 1.5 hectares of sauvignon blanc estate-grown on the Te Mania home block situated in Pughs Road. The wine is cool fermented for four weeks and bottled in October in the year of vintage.S Marinated scallopsX 4630Y 14/7/98a Nelson Home Block Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _*Te Mania Estate Home Block Sauvignon Blanc Te Mania Estate $16-20 14/7/98 8/3/98 Te Mania Estate [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; a crisp, pungent bouquet with herbal/gooseberry fruit is followed by a powerful, herbal/green capsicum palate, with a quite powerful finish. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a crisp, pungent bouquet with herbal/gooseberry fruit is followed by a powerful, herbal/green capsicum palate, with a quite powerful finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 Te Mania EstateP Predominantly from the Pughs Road vineyard, with 1.5 hectares of Mendoza clone chardonnay. The wine spends nine months in predominantly French oak, and 100% is taken through malolactic fermentation. S Yakitori chickenX 4631Y 10/7/98a Nelson Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Te Mania Estate Chardonnay Te Mania Estate 10/7/98 8/3/98 Te Mania Estate b[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite complex, with sweet cashew nut and melon aromas; the oak is more evident on the bouquet, with lots of barrel-ferment and malolactic fermentation characters subduing the primary fruit. Interestingly, the wine has 12 grams of residual sugar but does not taste at all sweet. RATING: 84 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is quite complex, with sweet cashew nut and melon aromas; the oak is more evident on the bouquet, with lots of barrel-ferment and malolactic fermentation characters subduing the primary fruit. Interestingly, the wine has 12 grams of residual sugar but does not taste at all sweet.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">84 2N CairnbraeP Produced in limited quantities, and not exported to Australia. Was awarded five stars in Cuisine magazine, and it is not hard to see why. Very much a manifestation of Kim Crawford's approach to Riesling, with the emphasis on ripe fruit. SashimiX 4632Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Reserve Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Cairnbrae Reserve Riesling Cairnbrae Wines $16-20 14/7/98 8/3/98 Cairnbrae Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; there is wonderful, intense lime juice and passionfruit on the bouquet, the palate intense and full flavoured, with particularly attractive mid-palate richness. In New Zealand terms, dry at 5.5 grams per litre. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there is wonderful, intense lime juice and passionfruit on the bouquet, the palate intense and full flavoured, with particularly attractive mid-palate richness. In New Zealand terms, dry at 5.5 grams per litre.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 CorbansP The Corbans Estate is a new low-priced range of wines. The 97 made an extraordinarily auspicious debut. For the record it is near dry, with only 5 grams per litre of residual sugar.S MusselsX 4633Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _*Corbans Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Corbans (Marlborough) $11-15 14/7/98 8/3/98 Corbans (Marlborough) D[4wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, crisp and fresh with direct aromas of light to medium intensity; the usual passionfruit and gooseberry characters are present and correct. The palate has excellent freshness and balance, replicating the characters of the bouquet; good balance. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is clean, crisp and fresh with direct aromas of light to medium intensity; the usual passionfruit and gooseberry characters are present and correct. The palate has excellent freshness and balance, replicating the characters of the bouquet; good balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Isabel EstateP Unusually complex winemaking techniques are used to produce this wine, which is made up of a number of different components. The majority is cold fermented with a neutral yeast and aged on lees for three months. Fifteen per cent of the wine is fermented in French oak barriques and underwent a partial malolactic fermentation. A small portion was whole-bunch pressed directly to barrel and fermented warm. The finished wine has over 7 grams of acid and very low (2.3 grams) residual sugar. A clB assy act. Sugar-cured tunaX 4635Y 10/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _)Isabel Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Isabel Estate Vineyard 10/7/98 8/3/98 Isabel Estate Vineyard [5wine glasses] 1997 Light yellow-green; the bouquet has amazingly pungent, sweet gooseberry and passionfruit aromas, the palate similarly pungent and penetrating, crammed to the gills with delicious fruit, and finishing bone-dry on the palate. Something special. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light yellow-green; the bouquet has amazingly pungent, sweet gooseberry and passionfruit aromas, the palate similarly pungent and penetrating, crammed to the gills with delicious fruit, and finishing bone-dry on the palate. Something special.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Isabel EstateP Thirty per cent of the wine is fermented in new and used French oak barriques, then aged on lees with stirring for 14 months. The balance is cool fermented in tank, aged on lees, and allowed to go through a natural malolactic fermentation. S Crumbed brainsX 4636Y 10/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _$Isabel Estate Marlborough Chardonnay Isabel Estate Vineyard 10/7/98 8/3/98 Isabel Estate Vineyard 1[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows complex nutty/toasty barrel ferment and malolactic ferment influences which come through on the cashew and hazelnut flavoured palate. Concentrated and powerful, with an ever so slight alcohol catch (13.6 degrees) on the finish. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows complex nutty/toasty barrel ferment and malolactic ferment influences which come through on the cashew and hazelnut flavoured palate. Concentrated and powerful, with an ever so slight alcohol catch (13.6 degrees) on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Isabel EstateP CHand-picked fruit is hand-sorted, before being fermented in an open fermenter with hand-plunging and natural (wild) yeast activity. Pressed after dryness, and matured in oak (20% new) for 13 months. To be honest, the 96 is disappointing in comparison to some of the earlier wines made by other producers from Isabel fruit. Shanghai beefX 4637Y 10/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _$Isabel Estate Marlborough Pinot Noir Isabel Estate Vineyard 10/7/98 8/3/98 Isabel Estate Vineyard h[3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with cherry-accented fruit of medium intensity, the palate quite long but becomes increasingly grippy, green and stemmy towards the finish, and doesn't have enough sweet fruit to carry those green notes. One suspects the vintage may have prevented the fruit from fully ripening. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with cherry-accented fruit of medium intensity, the palate quite long but becomes increasingly grippy, green and stemmy towards the finish, and doesn't have enough sweet fruit to carry those green notes. One suspects the vintage may have prevented the fruit from fully ripening.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 MatarikiP 19.50 EThe first release from 1997 of Matariki Sauvignon Blanc holds much promise for the future. Part stainless steel fermentation and a well-judged portion of barrel fermentation produces a genuinely successful food style a phrase which is often no more than an excuse for lack of flavour, but is certainly not in this instance. Smoked haddock or eelX 4638Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Matariki Sauvignon Blanc Matariki Wines $16-20 14/7/98 8/3/98 Matariki Wines *[4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; all of the components are discreet and harmonious, with a mix of smoky barrel ferment, mineral and herb aromas on the bouquet. The palate has the same harmony and mouthfeel, with the various components working synergistically. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; all of the components are discreet and harmonious, with a mix of smoky barrel ferment, mineral and herb aromas on the bouquet. The palate has the same harmony and mouthfeel, with the various components working synergistically. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MatarikiP 19.50Q Like the Matariki Sauvignon Blanc, first made in 1997. While the full range of winemaking treatments has been used, it is fruit, rather than oak, which drives the wine.S Brains in black butterX 4639Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Matariki Chardonnay Matariki Wines $16-20 14/7/98 8/3/98 Matariki Wines [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; melon, peach and fig fruit aromas on the bouquet, move more to melon and cashew on the palate. Light to medium weight; good length and balance. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; melon, peach and fig fruit aromas on the bouquet, move more to melon and cashew on the palate. Light to medium weight; good length and balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 :N NgatarawaP RIn 1996 (and again in 1997) Alwyn Corban aged the Stables Sauvignon Blanc in seasoned oak puncheons for two months to add textural and structural complexity to the wine. For the prior decade it had simply been fermented in stainless steel and early bottled. Like all of Corban's wines, restrained, with the accent on secondary characters. Avocado saladX 4641Y 10/7/98a Hawke s Bay Stables Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _!Ngatarawa Stables Sauvignon Blanc Ngatarawa Wines 10/7/98 8/3/98 Ngatarawa Wines /[4wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; there is some oak influence evident on the bouquet, but far from dominant, with pleasantly tangy fruit. The palate is complex, with unusual touches of peach and guava together with some nutty characters; well structured, good acidity. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; there is some oak influence evident on the bouquet, but far from dominant, with pleasantly tangy fruit. The palate is complex, with unusual touches of peach and guava together with some nutty characters; well structured, good acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Waipara SpringsP Estate-grown; conventionally cool fermented at the on-site winery. Fermentation stopped with barely perceptible residual sugar (6.5 grams per litre).S NAU&Globe artichokes and hollandaise sauceX 4642Y 14/7/98a Canterbury Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Waipara Springs Riesling Waipara Springs Wines $11-15 14/7/98 8/3/98 Waipara Springs Wines [4wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; the clean bouquet shows clear varietal character with tight mineral lime fruit, the palate precisely tracking the bouquet. Plenty of depth and length; well balanced. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the clean bouquet shows clear varietal character with tight mineral lime fruit, the palate precisely tracking the bouquet. Plenty of depth and length; well balanced.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Waipara SpringsP Direct, no-frills winemaking places the primary emphasis on the very good fruit base. A silver medal winner at the 1997 Air New Zealand Wine Awards.S Deep-fried calamariX 4643Y 14/7/98a Canterbury Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Waipara Springs Sauvignon Blanc Waipara Springs Wines $11-15 14/7/98 8/3/98 Waipara Springs Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the clean, fruit-driven bouquet ranges through citrus, gooseberry and passionfruit aromas; the palate is lively, crisp and fresh with a mix of citrus and nectarine flavours running through to a most attractive finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the clean, fruit-driven bouquet ranges through citrus, gooseberry and passionfruit aromas; the palate is lively, crisp and fresh with a mix of citrus and nectarine flavours running through to a most attractive finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Waipara SpringsP 5One hundred per cent barrel-fermented in French oak, followed by eight months on lees, with partial malolactic fermentation. Reflects the cool climate and the strong winemaker inputs; wines such as this from New Zealand share many characteristics in common with those of the Mornington Peninsula of Australia. Blanquette of vealX 4644Y 14/7/98a Canterbury Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Waipara Springs Chardonnay Waipara Springs Wines $21-25 14/7/98 8/3/98 Waipara Springs Wines [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows strong nutty barrel-ferment/cashew aromas which are, however, quite stylish. An elegant wine in the mouth, albeit with the flavours all secondary, and with relatively little primary fruit still evident. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows strong nutty barrel-ferment/cashew aromas which are, however, quite stylish. An elegant wine in the mouth, albeit with the flavours all secondary, and with relatively little primary fruit still evident.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 >N NgatarawaP A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, which spends 15 months in new oak, 80% new. The fruit power absolutely swallows up that oak, which is not the least intrusive.S Rib of vealX 4646Y 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Glazebrook Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand _$Ngatarawa Glazebrook Cabernet Merlot Ngatarawa Wines $26-50 14/7/98 8/3/98 Ngatarawa Wines 6[4wine glasses] 1996 Bright red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with earthy Cabernet varietal fruit aromas to the fore. The palate is typically restrained, with earthy Cabernet, a touch of briar and forest; the oak is just there, giving some vanilla cedar hints; finishes with balanced tannins. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright red-purple; the bouquet is clean, with earthy Cabernet varietal fruit aromas to the fore. The palate is typically restrained, with earthy Cabernet, a touch of briar and forest; the oak is just there, giving some vanilla cedar hints; finishes with balanced tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Fairhall Downs EstateP 16.25 ?Q\Estate-grown, and a mix of the Mendoza clone and MVIG-1 clone. A pleasant, no-nonsense wine.S GarfishX 4647Y 14/7/98a Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _ Fairhall Downs Estate Chardonnay Fairhall Downs Estate $16-20 14/7/98 8/3/98 Fairhall Downs Estate -[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fresh and crisp, just a touch herbaceous, with a modest hint of oak. The palate is elegant but light, with crisp melon and citrus fruit, and again barely evident oak. Will fill out a little more with time in bottle. RATING: 83 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fresh and crisp, just a touch herbaceous, with a modest hint of oak. The palate is elegant but light, with crisp melon and citrus fruit, and again barely evident oak. Will fill out a little more with time in bottle.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">83 OrlandoP A super-premium blend of Shiraz from the Barossa Valley and Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra, the Shiraz being matured in new American oak hogsheads for 12 months and the Cabernet Sauvignon in new French oak for 16 months. The components were then blended, the finished blend then being matured for a further eight months in a new series of French oak hogsheads the so-called double oak technique. Beef spare ribsX 4648Y 10/7/98a Barossa Valley Jacobs Creek Limited Release Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia _4Orlando Jacobs Creek Limited Release Shiraz Cabernet Orlando 10/7/98 10/3/98 Orlando [5wine glasses] 1994 Medium to full red-purple; notwithstanding the elaborate oak treatment, a very elegant wine, beautifully built and structured, with intense black cherry and blackberry fruit running through to soft tannins on the finish. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; notwithstanding the elaborate oak treatment, a very elegant wine, beautifully built and structured, with intense black cherry and blackberry fruit running through to soft tannins on the finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 SaltramP The Metala label, originally that of Stonyfell (itself long-since subsumed into Saltram) has a great history, and in its (conventional) white background form was one of the most famous in the 1960s and 70s. Its strong calligraphic design still evokes potent memories for old-timers such as myself. The Black Label variant came into being when the oldest part of the Metala vineyards reached their centenary, and has been continued with limited production from the now more than 100-year-old viB Stewed venisonX 4649Y 10/7/98a Barossa Valley Metala Black Label Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _!Saltram Metala Black Label Shiraz Saltram 10/7/98 10/3/98 Saltram P[4wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the voluminous bouquet is full of ripe, very slightly jammy berry fruit, the palate providing similar amounts of mouth-coating, almost essency, berry fruit, and subtle oak. A wine which will probably live off this unusual sweetness and richness of the fruit for decades. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the voluminous bouquet is full of ripe, very slightly jammy berry fruit, the palate providing similar amounts of mouth-coating, almost essency, berry fruit, and subtle oak. A wine which will probably live off this unusual sweetness and richness of the fruit for decades.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 SaltramP As from the 1996 vintage, the Mamre Brook Red has split itself from a Cabernet Shiraz blend into its two component parts, with a Mamre Brook Shiraz and a Mamre Brook Cabernet Sauvignon. It has also reverted to a 100% Barossa origin.S Grilled calf's liverX 4650Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Mamre Brook Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Saltram Mamre Brook Shiraz Saltram $16-20 14/7/98 10/3/98 Saltram [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity with some slightly leafy, green canopy characters, but the palate has lively fruit, with bright cherry flavours tinged by the leaf and mint characters of the bouquet. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is of medium intensity with some slightly leafy, green canopy characters, but the palate has lively fruit, with bright cherry flavours tinged by the leaf and mint characters of the bouquet.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 SaltramP 16Q{The Mamre Brook Chardonnay, now being entirely Barossa-based, effectively replaces the earlier Barossa Reserve Chardonnay. S PastaX 4651Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Mamre Brook Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Saltram Mamre Brook Chardonnay Saltram $16-20 14/7/98 10/3/98 Saltram [3.5wine glasses] 1996 Mamre Brook. Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth, with peach and melon fruit and slight wafts of alcohol. The palate is full and flavoursome, with peachy fruit and oak which seems to hang around the mouth. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Mamre Brook. Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is smooth, with peach and melon fruit and slight wafts of alcohol. The palate is full and flavoursome, with peachy fruit and oak which seems to hang around the mouth. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 Elsewhere VineyardP 25QNWinner of the trophy for Best Sparkling Wine at the 1998 Tasmanian Wines Show.S Tasmanian salmonX 4653Y 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Methode Champenoise X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _&Elsewhere Vineyard Methode Champenoise Elsewhere Vineyard $21-25 14/7/98 10/3/98 Elsewhere Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1995 Medium straw-yellow; a complex bouquet with strong, biscuity notes from the Pinot Noir, together with hints of strawberry. A generously flavoured wine on the palate, with that extra degree of weight which presumably comes from a substantial Pinot Noir component, but with the softness on the finish which so distinguishes the sparkling wines made by Steve Lubiana. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium straw-yellow; a complex bouquet with strong, biscuity notes from the Pinot Noir, together with hints of strawberry. A generously flavoured wine on the palate, with that extra degree of weight which presumably comes from a substantial Pinot Noir component, but with the softness on the finish which so distinguishes the sparkling wines made by Steve Lubiana.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 Coldstream HillsP 1997 was the first varietal Sauvignon Blanc produced by Coldstream Hills. In prior years the Sauvignon Blanc was blended with a greater volume of Semillon to produce a wine labelled Fum Blanc. Twenty-five per cent of the wine was barrel-fermented in new French oak, the remainder fermented in stainless steel, both at low temperatures. The barrel-fermented portion was removed from oak immediately after the end of fermentation, and the components thereafter blended and bottled. It is a fruitB -driven style, with the low crops and warm growing conditions of the 1997 vintage manifest in the wine, which has above-average length and concentration. SaladX 4654Y 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _ Coldstream Hills Sauvignon Blanc Coldstream Hills $21-25 14/7/98 11/3/98 Coldstream Hills [0wine glasses] 1997 Bright green-yellow; the bouquet is concentrated and intense, neither tropical nor herbal, but in the mid ripeness spectrum of gooseberry and even a hint of blackcurrant. The palate is relatively powerful and rich, with gooseberry fruit flavours particularly evident on the mid to back palate. Firm acidity, but overall not an aggressive style of Sauvignon Blanc. RATING: NR @BM bold:1997 <f"Bembo">Bright green-yellow; the bouquet is concentrated and intense, neither tropical nor herbal, but in the mid ripeness spectrum of gooseberry and even a hint of blackcurrant. The palate is relatively powerful and rich, with gooseberry fruit flavours particularly evident on the mid to back palate. Firm acidity, but overall not an aggressive style of Sauvignon Blanc.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">NR PenfoldsP 79.95 TFirst released in the 1960s; made from Barossa Valley Shiraz and Mourvedre which is oak-matured in old barrels for decades, and which is finally blended from selection of very old and much younger material. Penfolds has always kept a tight rein on production, thus preserving the all-important old material which forms the base of the wine. CoffeeX 14/7/98` SH MOa Barossa Valleyb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Grandfather X Fortified Z Australia Penfolds Grandfather Port Penfolds Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Penfolds [4.5wine glasses] Medium to full tawny-red; exceedingly complex, with strong barrel-aged rancio characters and attractively earthy spirit. A long and richly flavoured wine, with the cleansing, drying finish which is so essential to the style. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx NV <f"Bembo">Medium to full tawny-red; exceedingly complex, with strong barrel-aged rancio characters and attractively earthy spirit. A long and richly flavoured wine, with the cleansing, drying finish which is so essential to the style. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 PenfoldsP OFirst released in 1994 to celebrate the 150th birthday of Penfolds. In a neat marketing gimmick, 1994 bottles were blended and bottled, utilising the very oldest and best stocks, dating back to the early years of the twentieth century. The concentration and power of the wine is reminiscent of the very old Seppelt Liqueur Tawny Ports. CoffeeX 14/7/98` SH MOa Barossa Valleyb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Great Grandfather X Fortified Z Australia Penfolds Great Grandfather Port Penfolds Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Penfolds =[5wine glasses] Deep tawny with an olive-green rim; both the bouquet and palate are extraordinarily concentrated and rich, very much into the liqueur style of Port which is unique to Australia. Shows the Brandy spirit which was used in the fortifying process, and which adds yet extra complexity. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Deep tawny with an olive-green rim; both the bouquet and palate are extraordinarily concentrated and rich, very much into the liqueur style of Port which is unique to Australia. Shows the Brandy spirit which was used in the fortifying process, and which adds yet extra complexity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Bullers CalliopeP Both the Rare Liqueur Muscat and Tokay are of extreme quality and of great age, with the older material in the blend dating back to the 1940s, and picked from Bullers 1920 Rutherglen dryland vineyard. The base wine is over 20 years old, and only 150 dozen 375 ml bottles are released each year to protect the integrity of the base material. Like the Liquid Gold Tokay, very smartly packaged in a 375 ml bottle. IndefiniteS NVU&Strictly unnecessary, a meal in itselfX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Rare Liqueur Tokay 375 ml X Fortified Tokay Z Australia _*Bullers Calliope Rare Liqueur Tokay 375 ml Bullers Calliope North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Bullers Calliope .[5wine glasses] Deep golden brown; a classic mix of sweet tea-leaf and cr me br e aromas is followed by an outstanding palate showing the complexity which only age (and first class base material) can bring; some nutty characters join the tea-leaf and cr me br e of the bouquet. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Deep golden brown; a classic mix of sweet tea-leaf and cr me br e aromas is followed by an outstanding palate showing the complexity which only age (and first class base material) can bring; some nutty characters join the tea-leaf and cr me br e of the bouquet.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Bullers CalliopeP 2Emerged from the shadows in spectacular fashion at the 1994 Sydney International Wine Competition, where it won the trophy for Best Wine of Show. A magnificent wine of great age and complexity. Originally released as Very Old Rutherglen Muscat, but now under the Rare Liqueur label, and in the new package. IndefiniteS NVU&Strictly unnecessary, a meal in itselfX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Rare Liqueur Muscat 375 ml X Fortified Muscat Z Australia _+Bullers Calliope Rare Liqueur Muscat 375 ml Bullers Calliope North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Bullers Calliope [5wine glasses] Deep brown with a touch of olive on the rim; full and deep, almost into chocolate, with intense raisined fruit; richly textured, with great structure to the raisined/plum pudding fruit flavours, and obvious rancio age. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Deep brown with a touch of olive on the rim; full and deep, almost into chocolate, with intense raisined fruit; richly textured, with great structure to the raisined/plum pudding fruit flavours, and obvious rancio age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 BullersP PRepackaged into the slender, clear glass olive oil type of 375 ml bottle much favoured these days, but done extremely well with an attractive label and capsule design. Externalities to one side, a beautiful expression of young Rutherglen Tokay, the sort of wine one should drink, rather than sip especially on a cold winter's night. Cake and coffeeX 4495Y 14/7/98a Rutherglen Liquid Gold Tokay 375 ml X Fortified Tokay Z Australia _ Bullers Liquid Gold Tokay 375 ml Bullers Calliope $16-20 14/7/98 19/2/98 Bullers Calliope [4.5wine glasses] Glowing golden brown; totally delicious, sweet tea-leaf and caramel varietal aromas leap from the glass, with the flavour precisely tracking the bouquet. Clean spirit, sweet but not the least bit cloying. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx NV <f"Bembo">Glowing golden brown; totally delicious, sweet tea-leaf and caramel varietal aromas leap from the glass, with the flavour precisely tracking the bouquet. Clean spirit, sweet but not the least bit cloying.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 BullersP The sister wine to the Tokay, again featuring relatively fresh material, and again in the style one can drink in generous quantities. Shares the same attractive packaging.S Walnuts and almondsX 4496Y 14/7/98a Rutherglen Liquid Gold Muscat 375 ml X Fortified Muscat Z Australia _!Bullers Liquid Gold Muscat 375 ml Bullers Calliope $16-20 14/7/98 19/2/98 Bullers Calliope [4.5wine glasses] Orange-brown; classic raisiny/grapey aromas lead into a young muscat at its very best, with intense raisiny fruit, just a hint of nuttiness, and finishing with clean spirit. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx NV <f"Bembo">Orange-brown; classic raisiny/grapey aromas lead into a young muscat at its very best, with intense raisiny fruit, just a hint of nuttiness, and finishing with clean spirit.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MN CampbellsP One of a pair of super-premium fortified wines produced by Campbells, the other being Campbells Merchant Prince Muscat. The Campbells wine is, and always has been, lighter and fresher than that of the other major producers, with more emphasis thrown on the underlying varietal fruit of the wines. It is a question of style rather than quality; these deluxe wines deserve their price. NAU'As fine an aperitif as it is a digestifX 10/7/98` Rutherglenb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Isabella Tokay X Fortified Tokay Z Australia Campbells Isabella Tokay c Campbells North-eastern Victoria 10/7/98 % Campbells [4.5wine glasses] Light tawny-gold; fragrant grapey, sweet tea-leaf aromas with clean spirit; the palate is luscious with sweet juicy berry and tea-leaf flavours, finishing with good acidity and a very clean aftertaste. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx NV <f"Bembo">Light tawny-gold; fragrant grapey, sweet tea-leaf aromas with clean spirit; the palate is luscious with sweet juicy berry and tea-leaf flavours, finishing with good acidity and a very clean aftertaste.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 NN CampbellsP 0A superbly balanced and constructed Muscat in a distinctly lighter mould than Baileys, Chambers or Morris, the big names of the district. For all that, it has an average age of 25 years, with the oldest component dating back over 60 years. One of those rare Muscats which actually invites a second glass. Coffee, high-quality biscuitsX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Merchant Prince Muscat X Fortified Muscat Z Australia _ Campbells Merchant Prince Muscat c Campbells North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 % Campbells [5wine glasses] Light to medium brown; intense but fragrant spice and raisin aromas with clean spirit. The palate is remarkably fresh and light given the age of the wine, with raisin, spice, malt and toffee flavours all intermingling, followed by cleansing acidity. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Light to medium brown; intense but fragrant spice and raisin aromas with clean spirit. The palate is remarkably fresh and light given the age of the wine, with raisin, spice, malt and toffee flavours all intermingling, followed by cleansing acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Cope-WilliamsP Made from estate-grown Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and now fully made at the property. The high altitude, very cool vineyard site produces exceptional quality base wine, and this has been reflected in the illustrious show record of the Cope-Williams sparkling wines over the past few years a record undimmed by the limited number of entries available to it because of restricted production. OystersX 14/7/98` CH PNa Macedonb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling R.O.M.S.E.Y. X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Cope-Williams R.O.M.S.E.Y. Brut Cope-Williams $21-25 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 Cope-Williams [4wine glasses] Bright full yellow with particularly good mousse; complex bready/yeasty autolysis over fresh citrussy fruit; the palate is complex with a nice blend of crisp fruit and yeast autolysis. The finish is long and the dosage low. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX NV <f"Bembo">Bright full yellow with particularly good mousse; complex bready/yeasty autolysis over fresh citrussy fruit; the palate is complex with a nice blend of crisp fruit and yeast autolysis. The finish is long and the dosage low.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 CullenP An estate-grown wine of the highest quality which since 1990 has been arguably the best Margaret River Cabernet Merlot blend. Up to 1995 both a varietal and a Reserve version were made, but as from that vintage the decision was taken to only release one wine. Consistently outstanding. A decade or moreS& 1995U Lamb, strong cheddarX 14/7/98` CS MTa Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Cullen Cabernet Merlot Cullen $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Cullen [5wine glasses] 1995 Reserve. Full red-purple; proclaims its class from the first second, with dark berry, dark chocolate and cedar oak skilfully interwoven; the palate is as concentrated as the bouquet promises with ripe, luscious fruit in a dark berry spectrum, perfectly balanced and integrated oak, and equally perfectly judged and controlled tannins. Retasted November 1997 (and subsequently); a once in a decade wine. RATING: 97 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Reserve. Full red-purple; proclaims its class from the first second, with dark berry, dark chocolate and cedar oak skilfully interwoven; the palate is as concentrated as the bouquet promises with ripe, luscious fruit in a dark berry spectrum, perfectly balanced and integrated oak, and equally perfectly judged and controlled tannins. Retasted November 1997 (and subsequently); a once in a decade wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"BemB bo">97 Notley GorgeP Produced from 0.6 hectares of 15-year-old cabernet sauvignon vines on the Glengarry Vineyard, together with a dash of merlot (from elsewhere). Matured for ten months in a mix of new and used French oak, and made for the first time by Andrew Hood in 1995. It resulted in what must be one of the best Cabernets ever to come from Tasmania, proving beyond a shadow of doubt that the Tamar Valley can produce gloriously ripe fruit flavours. Mike Beamish must be regretting his decision to remove a s 5ignificant portion of the cabernet sauvignon vines which were on Glengarry when he purchased it, although clearly the best vines remain. Winner of the Best Full Bodied Red at the 1997 Tasmanian Wines Show, and came within an eyelash of repeating that success at the 1998 show, where it won another gold medal. 1995U Grass-fed scotch filletX 3221Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Notley Gorge Cabernet Merlot Notley Gorge $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Notley Gorge [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Full purple-red; a rich, almost voluptuously ripe and concentrated bouquet with delicious blackcurrant and mulberry fruit leads on to a palate as rich and as mouthfilling as any cool-climate mainland Cabernet. Soft but persistent tannins add authority and structure and, together with that lovely ripe fruit, will guarantee a long life. Retasted February 1998; seems to have, if anything, gained fruit sweetness and weight. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Full purple-red; a rich, almost voluptuously ripe and concentrated bouquet with delicious blackcurrant and mulberry fruit leads on to a palate as rich and as mouthfilling as any cool-climate mainland Cabernet. Soft but persistent tannins add authority and structure and, together with that lovely ripe fruit, will guarantee a long life. Retasted February 1998; seems to have, if anything, gained fruit sweetness and weight.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>raB ting: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 RockfordP This, quite simply, is a great sparkling Shiraz, inspired by the Sparkling Burgundies of Colin Preece at Great Western, and made using fundamentally the same techniques. The base wine is matured in large old wood for three years before being tiraged, and then left on lees for a year before disgorgement and further cellaring prior to release. This particular bottle was part of the September 96 disgorgement. Almost impossible to procure; sold only through Adelaide retailers and by mailing l ist and cellar door, and sells out almost overnight with a limit of six bottles per customer. The unique personality of Robert O Callaghan comes rocketing through the newsletter, which at the end of the day is probably the best way of getting hold of these scarce wines. Needs no accompanimentX 3147Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Black Shiraz X Sparkling Sparkling Red Z Australia Rockford Black Shiraz Rockford $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Rockford c[5wine glasses] Dark red, but with some brick hues evident. There is an attractive mix of spice and earth aromas on the bouquet, but the palate is something else, with that fine, faintly spicy, faintly earthy taste of mature Shiraz of the old Great Western style. It is neither heavy nor sweet, and has tremendous balance and length. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Dark red, but with some brick hues evident. There is an attractive mix of spice and earth aromas on the bouquet, but the palate is something else, with that fine, faintly spicy, faintly earthy taste of mature Shiraz of the old Great Western style. It is neither heavy nor sweet, and has tremendous balance and length. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Geoff WeaverP BThe 3.5 hectares of chardonnay at Stafford Ridge are now over 15 years old, producing grapes with great intensity of flavour, but with a particular grapefruit citrus character which has been present since the very first vintage. The wine matures slowly and gracefully, and is always released with several years bottle age. SweetbreadsX 4655Y 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Stafford Ridge Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Geoff Weaver Stafford Ridge Chardonnay Geoff Weaver $26-50 14/7/98 19/3/98 Geoff Weaver 2[5wine glasses] 1995 As always, an extremely powerful, intense, cool-climate style that is slow-developing. A complex array of grapefruit, apple and melon fruit aromas introduces a full-bodied palate, with some bottle-developed complexity starting to show, but sustained by fresh acidity. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">As always, an extremely powerful, intense, cool-climate style that is slow-developing. A complex array of grapefruit, apple and melon fruit aromas introduces a full-bodied palate, with some bottle-developed complexity starting to show, but sustained by fresh acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 CullenP *An exceptionally complex wine which has really hit the heights since 1993; both that vintage and 1994 stand high among the more powerful, structured Chardonnays made in Australia. One hundred per cent barrel fermentation, 100% malolactic fermentation and prolonged lees contact all make their mark. R 5-7 yearsS 1995U SweetbreadsX 2156Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Cullen Chardonnay Cullen $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Cullen 4[5wine glasses] 1996 As befits this winery and its winemaker, Vanya Cullen, a wine of great character and presence. Full-on barrel fermentation and maturation characters are woven through rich fig and peach fruit, balanced by reasonably firm acidity on the finish. The best yet from Cullen. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">As befits this winery and its winemaker, Vanya Cullen, a wine of great character and presence. Full-on barrel fermentation and maturation characters are woven through rich fig and peach fruit, balanced by reasonably firm acidity on the finish. The best yet from Cullen.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 PetalumaP One of the more elegant and refined Australian Chardonnays which has, however, radically changed its geographic base since it was first made in 1977, starting in Cowra then moving to Coonawarra, then partly to the Clare Valley, and ultimately (since 1990) being made from Piccadilly Valley grapes. The style of the wine has been refined over the period, but has remained remarkably consistent given the quite radically changing regional base. 5 yearsS 1995U Slow-roasted Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Petaluma Chardonnay Petaluma $26-50 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Petaluma [5wine glasses] 1996 Spotlessly clean, it ripples with a marvellous array of fruit aromas and flavours ranging from stony-minerally through citrus-grapefruit to tropical, yet retains exceptional finesse and elegance. RATING: 96 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Spotlessly clean, it ripples with a marvellous array of fruit aromas and flavours ranging from stony-minerally through citrus-grapefruit to tropical, yet retains exceptional finesse and elegance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">96 MaglieriP Sourced primarily from estate-grown grapes in McLaren Vale and Blewitt Springs, but from time to time, incorporating a 10% Coonawarra component. Matured in American oak, and invariably rich and full-flavoured in style. A consistent show medal winner over the years, particularly in the better vintages. The 95 won the Shiraz Trophy at the very important and enormously influential 1997 International Wine Challenge in London. It was also a gold medal winner in the 1997 Great Australian ShirazB Challenge. R 3-7 yearsS 1995U RavioliX 2196Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Maglieri Shiraz Maglieri $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Full red-purple; ripe, voluminous black cherry fruit is woven through moderately toasty oak on a clean bouquet; there is lots of flavour input on the palate from both minty/black cherry fruit and charry oak, finishing with well-balanced tannins. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Full red-purple; ripe, voluminous black cherry fruit is woven through moderately toasty oak on a clean bouquet; there is lots of flavour input on the palate from both minty/black cherry fruit and charry oak, finishing with well-balanced tannins.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 MaglieriP Named after Maglieri owner and founder Steve Maglieri who left his native Abbruzzi, Italy, in 1964 aged 18, to join his father who had immigrated in 1956. Together with his father and grandfather (who died in 1992 aged 99, but who had a great influence on Steve Maglieri) he has built a thriving business. This wine is similar to the standard Shiraz, but is matured for 18 months in one-year-old American oak hogsheads. A prolific trophy and gold medal winner throughout the mid-1990s. The was a top gold medal winner at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show. The 95 won the 1997 Australian Shiraz Challenge. It also came first in the 1997 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge. R 10+ yearsS 1993, 1994, 1995U Bistecca fiorentinaX 2197Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Steve Maglieri Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Maglieri Steve Maglieri Shiraz Maglieri $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 [5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; a solidly rich bouquet with plenty of fruit, but also plenty of oak. The palate is no less rich, concentrated and complex with well-balanced American oak and dark chewy fruit flavour and texture. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; a solidly rich bouquet with plenty of fruit, but also plenty of oak. The palate is no less rich, concentrated and complex with well-balanced American oak and dark chewy fruit flavour and texture. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 PikesP The first commercial release of this wine was in May 1998, but it made a pre-release appearance at the Riesling Masterclasses conducted around Australia by Pikes' distributor, Negociants Australia. Thoroughly deserves its Reserve status.S Salmon rouladeX 4657Y 14/7/98a Clare Valley Reserve Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Pikes Reserve Riesling Pikes $16-20 14/7/98 19/3/98 Pikes [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; flowery apple blossom/apple cake aromas with some mineral undertones, even a hint of kerosene (desirable, that is) on the bouquet lead into a classically firm, dry, low phenolic-level palate. Built to stay. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; flowery apple blossom/apple cake aromas with some mineral undertones, even a hint of kerosene (desirable, that is) on the bouquet lead into a classically firm, dry, low phenolic-level palate. Built to stay.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 Rosemount EstateP Since 1983 the flagship of Rosemount Estate and, at least in some quarters, regarded as the premier Australian white. Throughout the 1980s the style was quite controversial but has become more conventional in the 1990s as more emphasis has been placed on fresh fruit. It is a single-vineyard wine, most of the fruit coming from two 3.5-hectare blocks at the top of the Roxburgh Vineyard planted on limestone-impregnated terra rossa soil. I am left to ponder whether time has passed the style byB R 3-5 yearsS! 1994U Veal, porkX 14/7/98` Upper Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Roxburgh Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Rosemount Estate Roxburgh Chardonnay c Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) $26-50 Upper Hunter Valley 14/7/98 % Rosemount Estate (Hunter Valley) ?[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Full yellow; the bouquet has voluminous ripe peach fruit and lots of toasty, charry barrel-ferment oak. The palate is mouthfilling, with unashamedly ripe peachy/buttery fruit, and again that slice of toasty oak. Made in a tried and true fashion, and also reflecting its terroir. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Full yellow; the bouquet has voluminous ripe peach fruit and lots of toasty, charry barrel-ferment oak. The palate is mouthfilling, with unashamedly ripe peachy/buttery fruit, and again that slice of toasty oak. Made in a tried and true fashion, and also reflecting its terroir.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 RotherhytheP 26.95 Grown on the banks of the Tamar River on a site with excellent exposure which produces far-riper flavours in all of the Rotherhythe reds than one finds in most Tasmanian vineyards. A wine seldom seen on the mainland, but being offered through wholesale channels in mid-995 in tiny quantities, of course. Absolutely dominated the Cabernet classes in the 1996, 1997 and 1998 Tasmanian Wines Shows, the 92 winning the trophy for Best Full Bodied Red at the 1998 show, looking better than ever. Now-5 yearsS 1992U Braised lamb shanksX 2315Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Rotherhythe Cabernet Sauvignon Rotherhythe $26-50 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 [5wine glasses] 1992 Strong red-purple; a powerful and concentrated bouquet in archetypal Rotherhythe-style with black fruits, cedar and cigar box aromas and flavours all present. Compellingly like a top-class Bordeaux red from a medium vintage. Retasted February 1998. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1992 <f"Bembo">Strong red-purple; a powerful and concentrated bouquet in archetypal Rotherhythe-style with black fruits, cedar and cigar box aromas and flavours all present. Compellingly like a top-class Bordeaux red from a medium vintage. Retasted February 1998.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 SeppeltP mDP90 has an average age of 21 years, blended from the reserve stocks of very old Tawny Port made from Barossa Valley Shiraz and Grenache, with a little Cabernet Sauvignon. Between 1968 and 1991 alone DP90 won 30 trophies and 106 gold medals at Australian wine shows, making it the most-awarded wine of any style. It is intermittently released in limited quantities. The ultimate winter aperitifX 14/7/98` SH GRa Barossa Valleyb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Tawny Port Bin DP90 X Fortified Z Australia _ Seppelt Show Tawny Port Bin DP90 Seppelt Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Seppelt 7[5wine glasses] Light golden-tawny; the bouquet is incredibly penetrating and fine, with intense rancio and an underlay of caramel and spice. The palate is relatively light-bodied, yet piercingly intense, with sweet faintly raisiny fruit on the mid-palate, finishing with cleansing acidity. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Light golden-tawny; the bouquet is incredibly penetrating and fine, with intense rancio and an underlay of caramel and spice. The palate is relatively light-bodied, yet piercingly intense, with sweet faintly raisiny fruit on the mid-palate, finishing with cleansing acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 SeppeltP Made from Barossa-grown Palomino and matured in a traditional flor Sherry solera system of small casks. The wine remains under a flor yeast for a minimum of seven years before the long process of final blending takes place. A prolific trophy and gold medal winner at Australian shows. The reduction to 15.5 degrees as the minimum legal level of alcohol has allowed James Godfrey to further refine and lighten the style, making it (if it were possible) better than ever. Consomm 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified M Show Fino Sherry Bin DP117 X Fortified Sherry Z Australia _"Seppelt Show Fino Sherry Bin DP117 Seppelt $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Seppelt ,[5wine glasses] Light straw-yellow; penetrating floor aromas which almost defy description, having a penetrating mineral and nutty aroma. The flavour is almost tingling in its dryness, and now has the combination of delicacy and pungency of the top Spanish Finos and Manzanillas. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Light straw-yellow; penetrating floor aromas which almost defy description, having a penetrating mineral and nutty aroma. The flavour is almost tingling in its dryness, and now has the combination of delicacy and pungency of the top Spanish Finos and Manzanillas.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 BannockburnP As with all the Bannockburn wines, 100% estate-grown from plantings made in 1974, 1981 and 1987 which are typically low-yielding and produce fully ripe grapes with very concentrated flavour. Made with what I describe as traditional French techniques, with roughly settled juice, barrel-fermented, natural yeast and natural malolactic fermentation, resulting in wines of great complexity. Up to 10 yearsS 1994U Rich white meat dishesX 14/7/98` Geelongb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Bannockburn Chardonnay Bannockburn Vineyards $26-50 Geelong 14/7/98 Bannockburn Vineyards S[4wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is typical, with lots of barrel ferment, malolactic ferment and oak inputs on top of richly concentrated fruit on both bouquet and palate. There is an ever so slightly burnt twist to the finish which probably comes from the oak, but does not enhance the wine. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full yellow-green; the bouquet is typical, with lots of barrel ferment, malolactic ferment and oak inputs on top of richly concentrated fruit on both bouquet and palate. There is an ever so slightly burnt twist to the finish which probably comes from the oak, but does not enhance the wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 KnappsteinP AThe result of quite complicated winemaking architecture. Ripe Clare Valley Sauvignon Blanc is barrel-fermented and lees stirred for four months, with a smaller portion tank fermented to provide freshness. The Semillon component is also barrel-fermented, and comes partly from Watervale and partly from the Adelaide Hills. Tartare of salmonX 4659Y 10/7/98a Clare Valley Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _#Knappstein Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Knappstein Wines 10/7/98 19/3/98 Knappstein Wines #[4wine glasses] 1997 Medium yellow-green; soft, gently honeyed, sweet passionfruit aromas on the bouquet are followed by a round, soft, fleshy mouthfilling honey and herb-flavoured palate. The impact of oak on both bouquet and palate is more textural than flavour oriented. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; soft, gently honeyed, sweet passionfruit aromas on the bouquet are followed by a round, soft, fleshy mouthfilling honey and herb-flavoured palate. The impact of oak on both bouquet and palate is more textural than flavour oriented.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 KnappsteinP NAQpA blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (dominant) and Merlot, 75% from the Clare Valley and 25% from the Adelaide Hills. R Drink nowS 1995U Roast vealX 10/7/98` CS MTa Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Knappstein Cabernet Merlot Knappstein Wines Clare Valley 10/7/98 Knappstein Wines [4wine glasses] 1996 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with a mix of herbaceous and riper blackberry fruit. Interesting flavours unfold on the palate, running through mint, blackcurrant and mulberry, with a touch of almost saccharine-sweet oak. RATING: 86 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite fragrant, with a mix of herbaceous and riper blackberry fruit. Interesting flavours unfold on the palate, running through mint, blackcurrant and mulberry, with a touch of almost saccharine-sweet oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">86 Huntington EstateP Small parcels of wine which Susan Roberts considers to be specially ageworthy are held back for release several years after the varietal releases, themselves given more bottle age than most.S VenisonX 4670Y 14/7/98a Mudgeef Special Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _(Huntington Estate Special Reserve Shiraz Huntington Estate $21-25 14/7/98 19/3/98 Huntington Estate o[5wine glasses] 1993 Bin FB29. Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is complex and concentrated with rich, dark berry/dark chocolate fruit, just starting to show a touch of softening. The palate is redolent with plum, chocolate and black cherry fruit, with the first sign of the earthy regional characters which will build as the wine slowly ages. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1993 <f"Bembo">Bin FB29. Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is complex and concentrated with rich, dark berry/dark chocolate fruit, just starting to show a touch of softening. The palate is redolent with plum, chocolate and black cherry fruit, with the first sign of the earthy regional characters which will build as the wine slowly ages.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 cN LindemansP (A blend of about 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot which shows that, if yields are controlled, Padthaway can produce red wines of equivalent quality to its white wines. The wine was matured in a mix of new and used French and American oak, and has an abundance of fruit substance and flavour. 1995U Fillet steakX 3156Z 14/7/98a Padthaway M Padthaway Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _#Lindemans Padthaway Cabernet Merlot Lindemans (Padthaway) $11-15 Coonawarra 14/7/98 dN LindemansP A wine with a long and at times very illustrious history. The style has changed somewhat over the years, starting off as a fruit-driven wine which aged well (winning a major national wine show trophy for mature Chardonnay along the way) then becoming very oaky, but with the 94 vintage returning to its very best, and providing one of the great bargains of 1995, before going on to win the most prestigious Chardonnay trophy in Australia at the Liquorland National Wine Show for two years in s uccession (1996 and 1997), recalling the feats of Wolf Blass and Cape Mentelle with the Jimmy Watson Trophy in Melbourne. For the record, it is entirely barrel-fermented in a mix of new and one-year-old French (Allier and Troncais) oak, and given extended lees contact. Now or in 5 yearsS 1996U Chinese prawns with cashew nutsX 2192Z 14/7/98a Padthaway M Padthaway Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Lindemans Padthaway Chardonnay Lindemans (Padthaway) $16-20 r Padthaway 14/7/98 Lindemans (Padthaway) [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; much livelier than the 95, with fragrant melon/grapefruit aromas and an attractive touch of spicy French oak. There are similarly lively tangy/melon/citrus/white peach fruit flavours, which invest the wine with length on the palate; well-handled oak rounds off an excellent commercial wine. Retasted October and November 97 with similar notes. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; much livelier than the 95, with fragrant melon/grapefruit aromas and an attractive touch of spicy French oak. There are similarly lively tangy/melon/citrus/white peach fruit flavours, which invest the wine with length on the palate; well-handled oak rounds off an excellent commercial wine. Retasted October and November 97 with similar notes.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 CraigleeP OProduced from 4 hectares of estate plantings, almost invariably producing wines of the highest imaginable quality, with wonderful cherry, pepper and spice aromas and flavours. The wines are fruit, rather than oak-driven; they are immaculately structured, having the fruit weight and vinous sweetness to balance the peppery/spicy tang. Conservatively, 7-10 yearsS& 1994U Italian cuisineX 14/7/98` Sunburyb 1 Red 5 Full-bodied dry redf Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Craiglee Shiraz Craiglee $21-25 Macedon/Sunbury t late note 14/7/98 Craiglee [4.5wine glasses] 1996 Bright red-purple; the bouquet is fresh and lively with the hallmark black cherry and spice fruit aromas, the palate likewise lively and fresh, with spicy flavours and soft tannins. Matured in 40% new French oak. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1996 <f"Bembo">Bright red-purple; the bouquet is fresh and lively with the hallmark black cherry and spice fruit aromas, the palate likewise lively and fresh, with spicy flavours and soft tannins. Matured in 40% new French oak.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 CraigleeP eHas stood in the shadow of the Craiglee Shiraz, but a vertical tasting late in 1997 with vintages back to 1982 showed it to be a very fine wine in its own right, and with true cellaring potential. Since 1991 the move to barrel fermentation in French oak and the exclusion of malolactic fermentation has both tightened the style, and increased its longevity. Pan-fried vealX 4671Y 10/7/98a Sunbury Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Craiglee Chardonnay Craiglee 10/7/98 19/3/98 Craiglee ;[5wine glasses] 1996 Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fresh and delicate, with citrus, melon and peach fruit; integrated and balanced French oak. The palate is smooth, with most attractive butterscotch nuances to the nectarine and melon fruit; impeccable acid balance on a long finish. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; the bouquet is fresh and delicate, with citrus, melon and peach fruit; integrated and balanced French oak. The palate is smooth, with most attractive butterscotch nuances to the nectarine and melon fruit; impeccable acid balance on a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 gN LindemansP This is the standard release, sourced from vineyards in the Pokolbin region, and matured in a mix of one and two-year-old French and American oak barrels for 12 months. S Marinated beefX 4672Y 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Hunter River Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Lindemans Hunter River Shiraz Lindemans (Hunter Valley) $16-20 14/7/98 19/3/98 Lindemans (Hunter Valley) 9[4wine glasses] 1994 Bin 8803. Dark red; the aromas are typically complex, with a mix of plum, sweet leather and earth fruit aromas. The palate is well balanced, with a mix of plummy and more earthy flavours, with those unmistakable tannins of the region, which become positively silky with age. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1994 <f"Bembo">Bin 8803. Dark red; the aromas are typically complex, with a mix of plum, sweet leather and earth fruit aromas. The palate is well balanced, with a mix of plummy and more earthy flavours, with those unmistakable tannins of the region, which become positively silky with age.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Leo BuringP As part of the 1996 revamp of the Leo Buring range, the old complex bin numbers have been abandoned. The best wines made from the Eden Valley and Clare Valley are held back as show reserve wines, and released with five or more years bottle age under the Leonay label. In a perverse and confusing marketing decision, the label design is identical to the split label commercial release of the current vintage. 10-15 yearsS& 1991U Asparagus and salmon saladX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked)f Leonay Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Leo Buring Leonay Riesling Leo Buring $16-20 Eden Valley t late note 14/7/98 Leo Buring E[4.5wine glasses] 1992 Watervale. Glowing yellow-green; a rich, soft and toasty bouquet with some citrus in the background and the first signs of varietal kerosene aromas developing. Now full, rich and flavoursome, with smooth lime and toast, seemingly reaching its peak, and will hold it for years to come. RATING: 92 @BM bold:XXXXx 1992 <f"Bembo">Watervale. Glowing yellow-green; a rich, soft and toasty bouquet with some citrus in the background and the first signs of varietal kerosene aromas developing. Now full, rich and flavoursome, with smooth lime and toast, seemingly reaching its peak, and will hold it for years to come.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">92 iN Ata RangiP DMade in a very different style from the other consistently great Pinot Noir from the Wairarapa, that of Martinborough Vineyard. Ata Rangi is bigger, richer and more fleshy; that of Martinborough tighter and perhaps more elegant. There should not be a question of choice between the two styles: both should be in your cellar. R 2-4 yearsS+ 1995U New Zealand venisonX 14/7/98a Wairarapa Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Ata Rangi Pinot Noir c Ata Rangi $26-50 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 % Ata Rangi u[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; a reversion to the concentration of the 94 and preceding vintages, awesome in the depth of its fruit. Plum, black cherry and spice run through both the bouquet and the palate, which finishes with just the right amount of tannins to sustain the wine as it matures and develops more foresty/gamey characters. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; a reversion to the concentration of the 94 and preceding vintages, awesome in the depth of its fruit. Plum, black cherry and spice run through both the bouquet and the palate, which finishes with just the right amount of tannins to sustain the wine as it matures and develops more foresty/gamey characters.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 StonyridgeP Although Te Mata would vigorously dispute this (and no doubt others, too) I would nominate this wine as New Zealand's best Bordeaux-blend. The blend varies from vintage to vintage in the manner of the great estate wines of Bordeaux, but will typically be not less than 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and Malbec varying between 10% and 18%, and then 5% to 6% of Cabernet Franc and a nominal 1% of Petit Verdot. Prolonged ageing in new French oak allows the wine to be bottled unfiltered. Up to 10 yearsS 1994U Fillet of beefX 2084Z 14/7/98a Waiheke Island Larose N Cabernets Cabernet Blends New Zealand Stonyridge Larose Cabernets Stonyridge Vineyard $26-50 ??? - Waiheke Island 14/7/98 Stonyridge Vineyard ~[5wine glasses] 1996 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is strikingly different to the 95, fully ripe, with mulberry, prune and plum aromas, and an intriguing edge of lavender. An exceptionally powerful and complex wine on the palate with layer upon layer of flavour and texture; cedar, vanilla, blackcurrant and chocolate announce a wine out of the ordinary. RATING: 97 @BM bold:XXXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is strikingly different to the 95, fully ripe, with mulberry, prune and plum aromas, and an intriguing edge of lavender. An exceptionally powerful and complex wine on the palate with layer upon layer of flavour and texture; cedar, vanilla, blackcurrant and chocolate announce a wine out of the ordinary.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">97 Te Mata EstateP 39.50 A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, clearly the flagship of Te Mata and, in the view of many, of New Zealand s red wines. No longer a single-vineyard wine (which it was between 1982 and 1988) but drawn from the best grapes grown predominantly on the north-facing slopes of Te Mata Peak. Given more new oak than its sister wine, Awatea, and not made every year. (None was made in either 1992 or 1993.) 5-15 yearsS New Zealand lambX 3394Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay M Coleraine Cabernet Franc Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand _.Te Mata Estate Coleraine Cabernet Franc Merlot Te Mata Estate $26-50 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Te Mata Estate [5wine glasses] 1995 Deep red-purple; a complex and concentrated mix of cassis, mint and green olive is supported by strong, sweetly charry oak on the bouquet. The palate delivers all the flavour the bouquet promises, with both oak and fruit tannins adding power and length to the finish. Retasted end 1997, and evolving slowly but surely, with virtually no change in the notes. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Deep red-purple; a complex and concentrated mix of cassis, mint and green olive is supported by strong, sweetly charry oak on the bouquet. The palate delivers all the flavour the bouquet promises, with both oak and fruit tannins adding power and length to the finish. Retasted end 1997, and evolving slowly but surely, with virtually no change in the notes.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Te Mata EstateP Like the Coleraine, no longer a single vineyard-based wine. It is made in a slightly lighter, more accessible style, although one would never guess that from the varietal mix, which is more strongly based on Cabernet Sauvignon, typically with only around 10% Merlot and a little Cabernet Franc from time to time. The oak input is, relatively speaking, less, but the wine has the same breed and finesse of the Te Mata Coleraine. New Zealand lambX 3395Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Awatea Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand _%Te Mata Estate Awatea Cabernet Merlot Te Mata Estate $26-50 14/7/98 19/3/98 Te Mata Estate [4.5wine glasses] 1995 Strong purple-red; abundant, sweet blackcurrant and blackberry fruit aromas with hints of mint and cherry on the bouquet leads on to a round and supple palate, with more of the sweet, fleshy fruit of the bouquet; spicy, toasty oak adds interest and structure throughout. Retasted end 1997, and evolving slowly but surely, with vitrually no change in the notes. RATING: 93 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Strong purple-red; abundant, sweet blackcurrant and blackberry fruit aromas with hints of mint and cherry on the bouquet leads on to a round and supple palate, with more of the sweet, fleshy fruit of the bouquet; spicy, toasty oak adds interest and structure throughout. Retasted end 1997, and evolving slowly but surely, with vitrually no change in the notes.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">93 Te MotuP +It never rains on Waiheke Island in the lead-up to vintage, but it did in 1995. Indeed, it rained virtually non-stop for a month, leading to the onset of botrytis in the red grapes, and precluding the use of pressings in this wine. A return to earth after the truly outstanding 93 and 94 vintages. Milk-fed lambX 4673Y 14/7/98a Waiheke Island Te Motu Cabernet Blends New Zealand Te Motu Te Motu Waiheke Vineyards $26-50 14/7/98 19/3/98 Te Motu Waiheke Vineyards [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite aromatic, but with distinctly sappy/leafy aromas, with similar leafy, minty flavours on the quite delicate palate. The temptation to over-extract or over-oak the wine has, at least, been avoided. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; the bouquet is quite aromatic, but with distinctly sappy/leafy aromas, with similar leafy, minty flavours on the quite delicate palate. The temptation to over-extract or over-oak the wine has, at least, been avoided.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Virgin HillsP An entirely estate-grown blend (in descending order) of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot, Malbec and occasionally a touch of Pinot Noir. Not only are the grapes organically grown, but since 1988 the wine has been made without the use of added sulphur dioxide. It is a brave move which makes world s best preservative-free red; only time will tell how these wines age over a decade. The 95 is a blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Shiraz, 4% Malbec and 4% Merlot; the grapes were picked betwB_een 13 April and 5 June, surely the longest period for any single estate anywhere in the world. I simply don t knowS5 1994U DuckX 14/7/98` CS SH MT MAa Macedonb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Virgin Hills Cabernet Blends Z Australia Virgin Hills Virgin Hills $26-50 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 Virgin Hills ?[4.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is fragrant, of moderate intensity, with cedar, cigar box, leaf and spice aromas. The palate is fine and elegant, with leaf, mint and spice flavours underlying the red cherry/berry fruit; fine-grained tannins on a delicate but long finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red-purple; the bouquet is fragrant, of moderate intensity, with cedar, cigar box, leaf and spice aromas. The palate is fine and elegant, with leaf, mint and spice flavours underlying the red cherry/berry fruit; fine-grained tannins on a delicate but long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 PenfoldsP In April 1998 the long-awaited White Grange was finally released, its name putting to rest forever the idea that there could possibly be a brand extension of what is, and always will be, a unique wine. A blend of 50% Adelaide Hills and 50% McLaren Vale Chardonnay, given Rolls Royce treatment from start to finish, including a full malolactic fermentation, it should disappoint no one. In 1997 it won numerous trophies at the Royal Sydney Wine Show, including the prestigious Tucker Seabrook B]Trophy for best wine (white or red) in the Australian show system in the preceding 12 months. 95U%Richer white meat dishes of all kindsX 4674Y 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Yattarna Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay Penfolds 14/7/98 19/3/98 Penfolds [5wine glasses] 1995 Glowing yellow-green; while the bouquet is undoubtedly complex and powerful, it has a subtlety and a smoothness which takes it separate and apart from all of the Trial and Reserve Bin whites previously released by Penfolds. The bouquet and palate have melon, fig, citrus and apple aromas and flavours with perfectly integrated and balanced oak. The word seamless was invented for wines such as this. RATING: 96 @BM bold:XXXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; while the bouquet is undoubtedly complex and powerful, it has a subtlety and a smoothness which takes it separate and apart from all of the Trial and Reserve Bin whites previously released by Penfolds. The bouquet and palate have melon, fig, citrus and apple aromas and flavours with perfectly integrated and balanced oak. The word seamless was invented for wines such as this.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"BemboB BaileysP For many, Muscat is the greatest expression of northeastern Victorian fortified wines. This particular wine shows the essential blending skills, with a balance of very old and younger material, simultaneously providing complexity and freshness. R IndefiniteS NAU#After coffee; alternative to CognacX 14/7/98` FRa Glenrowanb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Winemaker s Selection Old Liqueur Muscat X Fortified Muscat Z Australia _0Baileys Winemaker s Selection Old Liqueur Muscat Baileys of Glenrowan North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 3[5wine glasses] Dark brown tending to olive on the rim; complex, faintly earthy/spirity aromas, with an almost nutty edge to the raisined muscat fruit. A tremendously powerful and concentrated wine in the mouth with excellent balance and a wonderful finish. Iron fist in a velvet glove. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Dark brown tending to olive on the rim; complex, faintly earthy/spirity aromas, with an almost nutty edge to the raisined muscat fruit. A tremendously powerful and concentrated wine in the mouth with excellent balance and a wonderful finish. Iron fist in a velvet glove.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 BaileysP One possessed of what was arguably the most distinctive label in Australia, as visually powerful (with its diagonal Shiraz in such large typeface) as the wine in the glass is potent. The wine is deliberately made in the traditional northeastern Victorian style to emphasise the richness and power of the fruit. There is some vintage variation, but the current release is an outstanding wine. 10-15 yearsS 1992U Powerful red meat or cheeseX 14/7/98` SHa Glenrowanb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Classic Style Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Baileys Classic Style Shiraz Baileys of Glenrowan $11-15 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 PenfoldsP First made in 1964, with a hiatus between 1969 and 1976 as scarce supplies of Cabernet Sauvignon were diverted to Bin 389. Now made from a blend of Coonawarra, Barossa and Eden Valley grapes, vinified in a fashion similar to Grange, with the fermentation finished in American oak barrels. The 94 vintage won three trophies at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show, including the Dr Gilbert Phillips Trophy for Best Red Wine of the Show. Not made in 1995. 15-25 yearsS+ 1994U Rare scotch filletX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _#Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon Penfolds Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 PenfoldsP Penfolds Show red wines have been produced sporadically since 1962, typically in quantities of 500 dozen, and designed specifically for show purposes. These wines put the lie to those who sneer at show wines , for they include in their number the majority of the greatest reds made in Australia since 1962 greater even than Grange. The last release (Bin 920) was a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Shiraz from Coonawarra. Typically 20 - 30 yearsS 1990U Depends on the age of the wineX 14/7/98` CS SHa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Special Show Bin 920 Cabernet Blends Z Australia _!Penfolds Special Show Bin 920 Red Penfolds Barossa Valley 14/7/98 PenfoldsP First made in 1976, it is sourced from premium areas across South Australia (not including the Riverland) from a varying blend, with the Cabernet component usually ranging between 30% and 40%, but with a high of 48% and a low of 5% according to vintage. It is matured in real oak (no chips) and is not batch-bottled. Outstanding value for money, its integrity protected by the introduction at a lower price point of Rawson s Retreat. Desirably 5-15 yearsS 1995U Hearty fareX 14/7/98` SH CSa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia _&Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet Penfolds $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 PenfoldsP Made solely from the 5.2-hectare vineyard established on the site where Dr Christopher Rawson Penfold built his house in 1844. It is an estate wine in the fullest sense of the term, made at the historic Magill winery, which has been restored and refurbished. Situated within ten minutes of the centre of Adelaide, Magill Estate will become one of Australia s foremost viticultural landmarks. 7-12 yearsS 1992U Rack of lambX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Magill Estate Shiraz Z Australia Penfolds Magill Estate Penfolds $26-50 ?Adelaide Plains t late note 14/7/98 PenfoldsP One of the better Penfolds white wines, although it tends to become rather heavy and coarse with any bottle age. Definitely best drunk immediately on release, and might be better with less-intrusive oak handling.R 1995U s brainsX 14/7/98 Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Clare Estate Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Penfolds Clare Estate Chardonnay Penfolds $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 PenfoldsP Made from chardonnay grown in the Clare and Barossa Valleys, and now 100% barrel-fermented in a mixture of new and one-year-old French oak, in which it spends eight months. A fast-maturing style which derives a considerable amount of its impact from the oak. One cannot quibble about the value of the wine, but I do wonder whether in this instance more is indeed better. The Valleys was added to the label name in late 1995, part of a broad-ranging move towards greater regional identificatioB&n for the wines in this price bracket. R Drink nowS 1996U Pasta, chicken, turkeyX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) The Valleys Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Penfolds The Valleys Chardonnay Penfolds $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 PenfoldsP An interesting example of the changes underway at Penfolds, both in terms of labelling and brand identification (the dual recognition of the Barossa Valley and of the Old Vines origins) but also of first, the resurgence of interest in semillon as a variety and secondly, of attempts to refine the white wine style at the top end of the range. This is not in fact at the top end, but in some ways is being used as a trial horse, with substantial success. The 95 is an impressive wine at its priB Short termS 1995U Rich seafood, veal or hamX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Old Vine Barossa Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _)Penfolds Old Vine Barossa Valley Semillon Penfolds $11-15 Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 BasedowP 18.50Q Made in mainstream Barossa-style, with plenty of ripe fruit flavours and a reasonable dollop of oak; generous, hearty and quick-developing. R!Neither necessary nor recommendedS 1994U Avocado, pastaX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Barossa Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Basedow Barossa Chardonnay Basedow $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 BasedowP 12.60 For more than a decade, a wine which offered extraordinary value for money, and not infrequently, surprising style. Made from once-unfashionable Barossa Valley semillon, with significant oak influence. The wine is given 12 hours skin contact before fermentation is initiated in stainless steel tanks, and then transferred to new and one-year-old American oak hogsheads for completion of the fermentation, thereafter being left in oak on lees for three to four months. One hundred per cent BarosB sa Valley semillon. Better vintages - up to 5 yearsS 1996U:Full-flavoured white meat dishes; Italian, Chinese cuisineX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Oscar s Traditional White Burgundy White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _*Basedow Oscar s Traditional White Burgundy Basedow $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 BethanyP Made using the Cordon Cut technique, which involves cutting the cane on which the grapes hang, but leaving it on the vine for over a month (until May) during which time the grapes lose much of their moisture and may occasionally be infected by botrytis. R Short term onlyS 1996U Fresh fruitX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Special Select Late Harvest Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia _,Bethany Special Select Late Harvest Riesling Bethany Wines $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Birdwood EstateP 19.95 Produced in tiny quantities from a 5-hectare vineyard planted at an altitude of 450 metres to riesling, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. This release represents a quantum leap in quality over earlier vintages, and shows the delicate Adelaide Hills style to good advantage. The 95 was tasted both in the Winewise Small Makers Competition and the Adelaide Hills Wine Show in February 1996, and on both occasions came near the top of its class, winning a gold medal at tB5he Adelaide Hills Wine Show in distinguished company. R 1-4 yearsS 1995U Blue swimmer crabX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Birdwood Estate Chardonnay Birdwood Estate $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 ~N BleasdaleP Verdelho has been grown at Potts Bleasdale for a very long time, originally dedicated entirely to make a very distinctive fortified wine (which is still available from cellar door at $27 per bottle with an average age of 16 years). Part now goes to make an attractive dry table wine, renamed Sandhill in 1993. It is partially barrel-fermented in new French and American oak and given three months on yeast lees. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U AvocadoX 14/7/98` Langhorne Creekb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sandhill Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Bleasdale Sandhill Verdelho Bleasdale Vineyards $11-15 Langhorne Creek 14/7/98 N BleasdaleP WAnother recent introduction to the Bleasdale range, although both cabernet and malbec have long been grown in the Langhorne Creek area; it is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Frank Potts (1815-1890) was the founder of the vineyard, and it is appropriate that the wine should have received numerous gold medals. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Medium weight red meat dishesX 14/7/98` MA MTa Langhorne Creekb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Frank Potts Cabernet Malbec Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _,Bleasdale Frank Potts Cabernet Malbec Merlot Bleasdale Vineyards $16-20 Langhorne Creek 14/7/98 Boynton s Of BrightP A new arrival, earlier vintages being made only from Sauvignon Blanc. Made without oak input, the Semillon adding both flesh and flavour.R 1-2 yearsS 1993U Sugar-cured salmonX 14/7/98` SB SEa Ovens Valleyb 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _,Boynton s Of Bright Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Boynton's of Bright $11-15 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Boynton s Of BrightP NAlong with Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine which really established the reputation of Boynton s. The early vintages won numerous gold medals and trophies, all exhibiting very strong American oak influence. The current release is much less oaky, and I prefer it greatly, for it allows the very good varietal fruit flavour to come through. R 4-6 yearsS 1993U!Pasta with a tomato or meat sauceX 14/7/98` Ovens Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Boynton s Of Bright Shiraz Boynton's of Bright $11-15 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Brand s LairaP 16.95 vFirst made in 1971, and over the intervening years has produced some wonderful wines; the earlier vintages, in particular, were pacesetters. Since then the field has caught up and indeed passed Brand s, but the viticultural resources are there, and there is no doubting the honesty of the wine. Has been a consistent gold medal winner at national shows over recent vintages. 10 yearsS 1995U Barbecued red meatX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _ Brand s Laira Cabernet Sauvignon Brand s Laira $16-20 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Bream CreekP An interesting wine which shows just what can be achieved at this most difficult of vineyard sites. It would seem probable that some juice was run off to concentrate the must, and possibly used in the Cabernet Pinot of the same year.R 3-5 yearsS 1993U VenisonX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Bream Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Bream Creek Vineyard $11-15 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 Brindabella HillsP Like the Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, made from grapes grown in the Hilltops region, coming from the Nioka Ridge vineyard at Young. A particular feature of the wine is the very sophisticated use of American (Missouri) oak. R 5+ yearsS 1995U Richer Italian dishesX 14/7/98` Canberra Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Brindabella Hills Shiraz Brindabella Hills $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 BrokenwoodP First released under this label from the 1984 vintage, although the 1983 was made entirely from the Graveyard Block (within the Brokenwood estate vineyards) and earlier wines had an essentially similar fruit source. Even taking 1984 as the starting point, the wine has firmly staked its claim to be regarded as an Australian classic. The 94 won three trophies at the 1995 Hunter Valley Wine Show, including the trophy for Best Red Wine of Show. A magnificent wine. The 1996 wine was not releasB ed until May 1998. 7-15 yearsS+ 1995U Roast squabX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf M Graveyard Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz Brokenwood $26-50 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Brown BrothersP 16.95 A non-vintage blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown in the King Valley, much of it at Brown Brothers own Whitlands Vineyard, and which has been consistently good over the last three years. It is overshadowed by better-known brands, but always scores well in shows and blind tastings, with numerous gold medals to its credit. Received the accolade as Sparkling Wine of the Year (and of course the trophy) at the prestigious 1997 International Wine Challenge in London. R Drink nowS Hors d oeuvresX 14/7/98` PN CHa King Valleyb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Pinot Chardonnay Brut X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _'Brown Brothers NV Pinot Chardonnay Brut Brown Brothers $16-20 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Brown BrothersP 29.90 While Brown Brothers has always had its own fortified wine programme, and while it is anxious to keep the All Saints programme separate, the quality and complexity of the Brown Brothers releases seems to have increased since the All Saints acquisition. In any event, a lovely wine. The material used to make the wine averages ten years of age, with the oldest components between 20 and 25 years, the youngest between three and four years. After coffeeX 14/7/98` King Valleyb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Family Selection Very Old Tokay X Fortified Tokay Z Australia _.Brown Brothers Family Selection Very Old Tokay Brown Brothers $26-50 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Brown Brothers [5wine glasses] Medium to full tawny-red; very complex tea-leaf/plum pudding/malty aromas. High-quality Tokay varietal character on the palate, which is lively and intense, with strong tea-leaf/malt/butterscotch flavours, and good balance. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Medium to full tawny-red; very complex tea-leaf/plum pudding/malty aromas. High-quality Tokay varietal character on the palate, which is lively and intense, with strong tea-leaf/malt/butterscotch flavours, and good balance.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Burge FamilyP 11.80QXThe first release of Draycott Merlot from vines planted in 1987, and a promising start. R Early-drinking styleS 1993U Mild cheddarX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Draycott Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Burge Family Draycott Merlot Burge Family Winemakers $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Capel ValeP cSourced from a variety of vineyards spread from the Capel region to Mount Barker. Initially only one wine was released, but in recent years the wine comes out in three price and quality categories: CV at the bottom, standard varietal Chardonnay in the middle, and Special Reserve (now called Frederick) at the top end, with prices ranging from $15 to $28. Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Crab, shellfishX 14/7/98` CHa Geographeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Capel Vale Chardonnay Capel Vale $16-20 South-west Coastal Plain 14/7/98 Capel ValeP 14.50 Capel Vale continues to flourish and to grow in a fashion not dissimilar to Evans & Tate. The estate plantings now include 22 hectares around the winery at Capel, 40 hectares in Pemberton and 26 hectares on the Whispering Hill vineyard at Mount Barker, all supplied with drip irrigation. R 3-7 yearsS 1996U Caesar saladX 14/7/98` RIa Geographeb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Capel Vale Riesling Capel Vale $11-15 South-west Coastal Plain 14/7/98 CassegrainP 27.95 ECompelling proof that the Hastings Valley, on the north coast of New South Wales, can produce Chardonnay of exceptional quality. Initially sourced from a single vineyard bearing the Fromenteau name, but is now used simply to denote the best Chardonnay made each year, always in limited quantities (between 650 and 950 cases). Quick-developing style 1995U Rich chicken or vealX 14/7/98` Hastings Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Fromenteau Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Cassegrain Fromenteau Chardonnay Cassegrain $26-50 Hastings Valley 14/7/98 CassegrainP 15.95Q 1993 marked the first Hastings Valley release of Semillon, and a promising start, albeit with limited quantities made. The style reflects the warm climate, and will be quick-maturing. Fermented and matured for six months in large old oak.R Drink nowS 1995U Pasta marinaraX 14/7/98` Hastings Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) First Ridge Vineyard Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _(Cassegrain First Ridge Vineyard Semillon Cassegrain $11-15 Hastings Valley 14/7/98 CassegrainP 13.95 A French hybrid cross which is strongly resistant to downy and powdery mildew, and produces incredibly intensely coloured wines. Its disease resistance is the reason it was chosen for the Hastings Valley, where Cassegrain has the only significant planting in Australia. As the notes indicate, wine quality has varied wildly, and the wine rating is something of a compromise between the extremes. For all that, interesting. In 1994 a Reserve Chambourcin was made, with abundant aroma and flavourB5, which continued to drink very well throughout 1996. R 1-3 yearsS 1996U Italian cuisineX 14/7/98` Hastings Riverb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Chambourcin Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Cassegrain Chambourcin Cassegrain $11-15 Hastings Valley 14/7/98 Chapel HillP Fully deserves the Reserve label. It is sourced from premium vineyards in McLaren Vale, Padthaway and Coonawarra and barrel-fermented in high-quality French oak to produce a wine of great style which is a consistent medal winner in shows. R 1-5 yearsS 1995U Slow-cooked fresh salmonX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Chapel Hill Reserve Chardonnay Chapel Hill $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Chapel HillP A blend of McLaren Vale and Coonawarra Cabernet, matured in a mix of quality French and American oak. Consistently good over the years, peaking with the 92 vintage, which capped a distinguished show career by winning three trophies at the 1994 National Wine Show in Canberra, including Best Table Wine of Show. The 95 (a blend of 68% McLaren Vale and 32% Coonawarra) is a triumph for what was not the easiest of vintages. Now-10 yearsS 1995U!Full-flavoured cheddar, red meatsX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red McLaren Vale/Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _6Chapel Hill McLaren Vale/Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Chapel Hill $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Chapel HillP The Reserve appellation is kept for the best red wine of the year; in 1992 it was a blend of 67% Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% McLaren Vale Shiraz. Superb oak handling and premium quality fruit have produced a wine of the highest quality.R 15-20-year potentialS 1992U Rich game or meatX 14/7/98` CS SHa McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Reserve Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _#Chapel Hill Reserve Cabernet Shiraz Chapel Hill $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Charles SturtP One of the sporadic limited release wines of Charles Sturt University to scale the heights. The 93 vintage was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra and Shiraz from the Heathcote region of Victoria. There is no doubting Coonawarra s position as the pre-eminent producer of Cabernet Sauvignon; there is more than a little evidence to suggest that Heathcote produces the best full-bodied Shiraz in Australia. (The Great Western region produces a finer style.) The blend is thus bred in tBthe purple, and given Hooper s winemaking skills, it is not surprising that a cascade of gold medals descended on it. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Entrec te of beefX 14/7/98` Other Wineries of NSWb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _7Charles Sturt Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Charles Sturt University Winery $16-20 Bendigo 14/7/98 Chateau LeamonP An extraordinary wine made from pinot noir grown in the Strathbogie Ranges by Christopher Bennett and which reached 14.5 degrees. Matured in a mix of Vosges and Allier oak, and every bit as big as its chemical analysis would suggest. R Drink nowS 1995U Quail, duckX 14/7/98` Bendigob 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Chateau Leamon Pinot Noir Chateau Leamon $16-20 Bendigo 14/7/98 Blue Pyrenees EstateP 22.95 HThe former Chateau Remy has had a long struggle to convert from its original function of brandy production to sparkling and table wine. Notwithstanding the substitution of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for the original Trebbiano, the sparkling wines have failed to inspire. Vincent Gere perseveres, and this is the best release yet. Aperitif-styleX 14/7/98` CH PNa Pyreneesb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Blue Pyrenees Estate Brut Blue Pyrenees Estate $21-25 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Chateau TahbilkP 11.95 )Chateau Tahbilk is not particularly well known for its Riesling, yet has accumulated a trophy, 11 gold, 26 silver and 51 bronze medals for this wine since its introduction in 1980. As with all the Tahbilk wines, estate-grown, and again, as with all Tahbilk wines, particularly generous in flavour. Early-developing styleS 1995U Seafood saladX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Chateau Tahbilk Riesling Chateau Tahbilk $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 XanaduP 42.50Q Can be absolutely outstanding, as it was in 1991. That wine won the trophy for best Margaret River Red at the 1993 SGIO WA Wine Awards, and it is not hard to see why. 10 yearsS! 1993U Roast lambX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _!Xanadu Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Xanadu Wines $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 N ClevelandP &A far more difficult variety in the cool Macedon region, but flourishes in warm vintages such as 1991, albeit with unusual fruit flavours. In less favourable years, most vineyard sites (though not all) produce wines which are much leafier and tarter than most cool-climate Australian cabernets. R 3-5 yearsS 1993U Ripened brie or camembertX 14/7/98` Macedonb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Cleveland Cabernet Sauvignon c Cleveland $16-20 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 CoombendP `Situated adjacent to Freycinet, and shares the same remarkable site climate, proving yet again how difficult it is to generalise about the Tasmanian climate. Both the 1990 and 1991 Cabernets have won trophies in Tasmanian shows; it is arguably the best Cabernet Sauvignon in Tasmania. The 94 vintage won a silver medal at the 1997 Tasmanian Wine Show. R 4-7 yearsS 1994U Ragout of lambX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Coombend Cabernet Sauvignon Coombend Estate $21-25 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 Crabtree Of WatervaleP A new wine for Robert Crabtree, picking up both on the popularity of grenache and the reasonably ready availability of this variety in the Clare Valley. It is not hard to see why the grape has suddenly found such popularity.R Best drunk youngS 1996U Grilled calf s liverX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Crabtree Of Watervale Grenache Crabtree of Watervale $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 N CraigmoorP 11.95 In 1971 Craigmoor, together with Tyrrell s, vintaged a wine which was subsequently released and labelled Chardonnay. The two wines from that vintage were the first in Australia to be so labelled this century. Craigmoor in fact acted as the source block for much of the spread of chardonnay around Australia; it seems that the stock can be traced back to the original early 19th-century importations of Busby and Macarthur. R 1-3 yearsS 1995U Smoked chickenX 14/7/98` Mudgeeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Craigmoor Chardonnay c Craigmoor $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 ArenbergP A wine of exceptional and unusual quality, made from grapes picked at between 26 and 29 baum , heavily infected by botrytis. Interestingly, all come from McLaren Vale, not a region noted for this style. Trophy-winning wine.R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Virtually any rich dessertX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Noble Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia Arenberg Noble Riesling Arenberg $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 De BortoliP A wine which has on occasions (such as 1993) been astonishingly good given its price, and the volume in which it is made. It is produced almost entirely from Griffith region grapes, but reflects careful selection of the best available material.R Drink nowS 1995U Pasta marinaraX 14/7/98` Riverinab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Deen De Bortoli Vat 7 Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _+De Bortoli Deen De Bortoli Vat 7 Chardonnay De Bortoli e under $10 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 De BortoliP In the manner of Chateau d Yquem, a dry wine made from grapes partially infected by botrytis, and in effect the dry half of Noble One. The 85 (first vintage) was a magnificent wine, the 87 very good indeed, the 93 building nicely in bottle.R 5-10 yearsS 1993U*Interesting aperitif, prosciutto and melonX 14/7/98` Riverinab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Botrytis Semillon Sweet Sweet Z Australia _ De Bortoli Dry Botrytis Semillon De Bortoli $11-15 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 De BortoliP @A classic wine, without question the foremost example of barrel-fermented, wood-matured Botrytis Semillon in Australia. Every vintage made has won at least one trophy and innumerable gold medals. The 1994 won the trophy for Best Dessert Wine, with the 95 the runner-up at the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition. 3-10 yearsS& 1995U me br 14/7/98` Riverinab 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table winef M Noble One Botrytis Semillon Sweet Sweet Z Australia _&De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon De Bortoli $21-25 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 DelatiteP Produced from 1.4 hectares of estate plantings, and made sensibly enough without the use of oak. Sometimes lacking fruit intensity and varietal flavour, it comes into its own in better vintages such as 1994.R Drink nowS 1995U Fresh oystersX 14/7/98` Central Victorian High Countryb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Delatite Sauvignon Blanc Delatite $16-20 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 DelatiteP A blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc which, in most vintages, is by far my most preferred wine from Delatite, simply because the omnipresent mint aromas and flavours seem to work best with the wine.R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Leg of lambX 14/7/98` CS MT MA CFa Central Victorian High Countryb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Devil s River Cabernet Blends Z Australia Delatite Devil s River Delatite $21-25 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Devil s LairP An estate-grown Bordeaux blend, with the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc varying from year to year, but with the Cabernet component never less than 60%, and usually closer to 85%. Spends 18-20 months in French oak; a powerful, intense wine. Up to 7 yearsS 1992U Roast vealX 14/7/98` CS MTa Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Devil s Lair Cabernet Blends Z Australia Devil s Lair Devil's Lair $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Diamond ValleyP 29.75 jProduced in very limited quantities from a little over 1 hectare of estate vines, and first released in 1990. Typically intense, the wine is fruit, rather than oak-driven. The wine has won numerous gold medals since its first release in 1990. The 96 was a richly deserved trophy and gold medal winner at the 1997 Royal Adelaide Wine Show, and has a long future. 2-5+ yearsS Cold smoked troutX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Estate Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Diamond Valley Estate Chardonnay Diamond Valley Vineyards $26-50 Yarra Valley t late note 14/7/98 Domaine ChandonP Made from a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, again sourced from vineyards across southern Australia. Without question, it is by far the most serious Ros , albeit made in tiny quantities, and hard to find. R 1993U Poached salmon, Asian cuisineX 14/7/98` PN CHa Yarra Valleyb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparklingf X Sparkling Sparkling Red Z Australia Domaine Chandon Brut Ros Domaine Chandon $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Domaine ChandonP Made entirely from Yarra Valley grapes, partially estate-grown and partially from other major Valley growers. Typically a blend of 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay, and disgorged after three years on lees.R 1990U Fish, white meatsX 14/7/98` PN CHa Yarra Valleyb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparklingf Yarra Valley X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _"Domaine Chandon Cuv e Yarra Valley Domaine Chandon $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Domaine ChandonP Just as the Ros is the only serious example of its kind in Australia, so is the Cuv e Riche, an even-rarer style, based on pinot noir and with 50 grams per litre dosage a sugar level which is swallowed up by the wine, and seems far less on tasting. R Light cake-type dessertsX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparklingf e Riche X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Domaine Chandon Cuv e Riche Domaine Chandon $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Doonkuna EstateP As Doonkuna, Clonakilla, Lark Hill and Helm s most consistently show, Riesling is quite well suited to the Canberra district climate. This wine, produced from low-yielding, hand-pruned and hand-picked vines, is usually well made with consultancy advice from Gary Baldwin of Oenotech. Up to 5 yearsS 1996U"Green bean salad with hazelnut oilX 14/7/98` Canberra Districtb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Doonkuna Estate Riesling Doonkuna Estate $11-15 Canberra District 14/7/98 N Drayton 10.50Q Made in traditional Hunter-style, without resorting to oak and in particular to oak chips. It thus requires both patience and understanding to give of its best.R)Varies; usually but not always 7-10 yearsS PastaX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Drayton s Semillon c Drayton e under $10 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 N Drayton 12.80 (Year in, year out, this wine offers the best value in the Drayton range, as honest as the day is long, and with real depth to the fruit. In its youth it shows good varietal fruit characters, but will slowly change with age into a typically regional style, pleasing those who like old Hunter reds. Up to 15 yearsS 1994U Lamb casseroleX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Bin 5555 N Hermitage Shiraz Z Australia Drayton s Bin 5555 Hermitage c Drayton $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 N Drayton 7Made from a single block of old vines, and named in honour of William Drayton, the founder of the company, now carried on by his great-grandchildren. The packaging of the wine, and to a lesser degree, its quality, are a little disappointing given its high price, although the 91 reflects the great red vintage. 7-10 yearsS 1991U Rich red meatsX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red William Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Drayton s William Shiraz c Drayton $26-50 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 N Drayton 12.80Q A quiet performer with Cabernet Sauvignon, part estate-grown and part purchased, but all from relatively low-yielding, Lower Hunter vineyards. Vinification is straightforward, and the wine is driven by its fruit, rather than oak.R Up to 10 yearsS 1993U Soft ripened cheeseX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Drayton s Cabernet Sauvignon c Drayton $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Dromana EstateP As with all of the wines under the Dromana Estate label, entirely estate-grown (and, of course, made and bottled). A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot.R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Beef in red wine sauceX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Dromana Estate Cabernet Merlot Dromana Estate $21-25 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Wolf BlassP 10Q`Made in an unashamedly commercial mould, with skin contact and what appears to be American oak. R Drink nowS 1993U Pasta carbonaraX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) M Eaglehawk Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Wolf Blass Eaglehawk Chardonnay Wolf Blass e under $10 Clare Valley 14/7/98 EldertonP 17.95Q Elderton s strength lies in its 30 hectares of prime Barossa Valley vineyards, which produce consistently rich red wines that are made elsewhere under contract. Right from the outset, these wines have been consistent medal winners. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Rack of lambX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Elderton Shiraz Elderton $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 EldertonP 17.95 The Elderton red wines have always been full-flavoured, and have been consistent medal winners across the national show system, but it nonetheless must have come as a pleasant surprise to the Elderton team to win the 1993 Jimmy Watson Trophy (with the 92 vintage). 10 yearsS 1994U VenisonX 14/7/98 Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Elderton Cabernet Sauvignon Elderton $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Elsewhere VineyardP The 1991 and 1993 vintages of this wine rank among the best made anywhere in Australia in those vintages, and certainly in Tasmania. They both exhibited extraordinary colour, aroma and richness of fruit, attesting to the superb site climate enjoyed by Elsewhere. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Breast of duck with demi glazeX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Elsewhere Vineyard Pinot Noir Elsewhere Vineyard $21-25 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 N FergussonP 28.50 Named after the third of the Fergusson children, and produced from estate-grown grapes. Winemaker Chris Keyes has done a wonderful job with these three estate-produced wines, particularly given the difficult 1993 vintage for red wines in the Yarra Valley.R 7-10 yearsS 1995U Scotch filletX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Benjamin Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _%Fergusson Benjamin Cabernet Sauvignon c Fergusson $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 FraserP Made with meticulous attention to detail, and some of the early vintages outstanding. The wines always need time to settle down, typically showing the impact of new oak when released, and with that oak needing time to integrate and soften.R 3-4 yearsS 1995U Smoked chickenX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Fraser Chardonnay Fraser Vineyard $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 GalafreyP Invariably one of the richer and fuller Mount Barker Rieslings, and commensurately quicker-developing. A hint of sweetness adds to the commercial appeal, and more often than not is carried by the depth of the fruit, though not with the 95.R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Sweet and sour porkX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Galafrey Riesling Galafrey $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 GalafreyP 12.95 .Much of the attention to date has been focused on Mount Barker Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling, but there is every indication that it can regularly produce Shiraz of equally impressive quality. Inevitably, styles vary from lighter to fuller; that of Galafrey varies in weight according to the vintage. R 4-8 yearsS 1993U Washed rind cheeseX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Galafrey Shiraz Galafrey $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Gembrook HillP Immaculate viticulture, with great attention to detail and to canopy management and manipulation, neatly offsets the ultra-cool site climate at Gembrook. The Chardonnay always shows its cool climate origins, but is never thin or herbal.R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Crab, prawnsX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Gembrook Hill Chardonnay Gembrook Hill $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Gembrook HillP Tends to reflect the very cool climate, and the rich, red volcanic soils, rather more than the two white wines, but nonetheless has style and genuine appeal in a lighter mould. R Drink nowS 1994U Asian seafood dishesX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Gembrook Hill Pinot Noir Gembrook Hill $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Geoff MerrillP A blend of Chardonnay (86%) and Semillon (14%) grown in the McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley, fermented in a combination of American and French oak puncheons, and aged on lees before bottling. Always sold with an unusual number of years bottle age, developing tremendous richness. Multiple gold medal winner, the then-currently available 91 winning the trophy for Best Aged White Wine at the 1996 Royal Sydney Wine Show. Ready when soldS 1991U Poultry, rabbitX 14/7/98` SE CHa McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Premium Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Geoff Merrill Premium Chardonnay Geoff Merrill $16-20 McLaren Vale t late note 14/7/98 Geoff MerrillP 26.95 Although simply labelled Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine usually contains a dash of Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc. Usually two-thirds come from Coonawarra and one-third from McLaren Vale; the wine is aged in American oak puncheons for over two years before bottling. The 1989 won two gold, six silver and 20 bronze medals in Australian shows; the 90, too, has enjoyed considerable show success. Medium term - to 5 yearsS 1991U Veal scaloppineX 14/7/98` CS MTa McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _ Geoff Merrill Cabernet Sauvignon Geoff Merrill $26-50 McLaren Vale t late note 14/7/98 GlenaraP ]In fact a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the latter two varieties having been planted on the estate in 1987 and 1988, respectively, making their first contribution to the wine in 1990. The Glenara vineyards are established on the western-facing slopes of the Adelaide Hills in one of the warmest site climates of the region. R 2-3 yearsS 1992, 1993U SquabX 14/7/98` CS MT CFa Adelaide Hillsb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Glenara Cabernet Sauvignon Glenara Wines $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 GlenAyrP 2The Coal River region is a relatively new arrival on the scene in Tasmania, having been opened up in the wake of the supply of essential irrigation water, for the summers are exceptionally dry. A wine of exceptionally impressive quality given the tiny scale of production, and available only by mail order. R Drink nowS 1995U Tasmanian lobsterX 15/7/98` 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia GlenAyr Riesling GlenAyr $16-20 East Coast Tasmania 15/7/98 Gloucester RidgeP A lot of questions still remain to be answered about the Pemberton-Warren region, many turning on fruit intensity. Time alone will tell whether this is a young vine problem, or whether there are other factors at work. This wine neatly poses the question, however well it has been made. R Drink nowS 1996U Delicate seafoodX 14/7/98` SBa Pembertonb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _ Gloucester Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Gloucester Ridge Vineyard $11-15 r Pemberton 14/7/98 Goona WarraP As with all of the Goona Warra wines, estate-grown, but noteworthy both for its rarity as a straight varietal and also for its quality over the past four or five years. A very interesting wine for the wine student.R 2-4 yearsS 1994U CannelloniX 14/7/98` Sunburyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Franc Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Goona Warra Cabernet Franc Goona Warra Vineyard $21-25 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 GoundreyP This wine comes from 11 hectares of estate plantings, and is yet further evidence of the suitability of the variety to the Mount Barker region. Has struck a consistent, ultra-ripe style over the past four years. Over the years has won a number of trophies and gold medals. R 5-8 yearsS 1995U Osso bucoX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Goundrey Reserve Shiraz Goundrey $21-25 Great Southern t late note 14/7/98 HaselgroveP Like so many producers, Haselgrove has joined the Grenache bandwagon and to good effect. This is in fact a blend of 86% Grenache and 14% Shiraz, and can accordingly simply bear the Grenache brand on its front label.R Best youngS 1995U RavioliX 14/7/98` GR SHa McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Haselgrove Grenache Haselgrove $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 HeggiesP Made, needless to say, from 100% estate-grown grapes, barrel-fermented and always given time in bottle before it is brought on to the market. The result is a complex, rich wine, often sweet and toasty. R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Veal, turkeyX 14/7/98` Eden Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Heggies Chardonnay Heggies Vineyard $21-25 Eden Valley 14/7/98 HeggiesP CWhile viognier has been grown on the Mornington Peninsula, at Elgee Park, for many years, Yalumba (with a separate importation of clonal material) has been the first to commercialise viognier in Australia. The early vintages produced fairly thin, ordinary wines, but no one could accuse the 93 or 95 of lacking character. R Drink nowS 1995U Pork filletX 14/7/98` Eden Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Viognier White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Heggies Viognier Heggies Vineyard $21-25 Eden Valley 14/7/98 HighbankP 29.95 A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc made for Dennis Vice by Trevor Mast of Mount Langi Ghiran. A new entry on to the roster, adding to the very attractive Chardonnay tasted in previous years. The grapes for the wine are now organically grown. 7-10 yearsS 1993U Stuffed shoulder of lambX 14/7/98` CS MT CFa Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Basket Pressed Cabernet Blend Cabernet Blends Z Australia _&Highbank Basket Pressed Cabernet Blend Highbank $26-50 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Hill-Smith EstateP Chardonnay occupies the lion s share of the Air Strip Block with 17 hectares of grapes in production. The wine is barrel-fermented in Vosges oak and given extended lees contact. Vintages such as 1990 and 1993 show just what can be achieved from this Adelaide Hills vineyard. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Yabbies in hollandaise sauceX 14/7/98 Eden Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Hill-Smith Estate Chardonnay Hill-Smith Estate $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 N HillstoweP Drawn from various vineyard sources in McLaren Vale, principally from the 10 hectares planted at the Hillstowe vineyard. Made in the modern Australian style, with anaerobic juice handling, and partial barrel fermentation in French oak.R 2-4 yearsS 1993U AvocadoX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) McLaren Vale Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Hillstowe McLaren Vale Chardonnay c Hillstowe $16-20 Mclaren Vale 14/7/98 HollickP A brilliant piece of label design and name introduced in September 1993. There is both a Terra White (a blend of Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc) and a Terra Red, the latter a blend of 80% Shiraz and 20% Cabernet. Both are intended for simple, early, easy drinking. Short termS 1993U Brasserie-type dishesX 14/7/98` RI SBa Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) M Terra Red Shiraz Blends Z Australia Hollick Terra Red Hollick $11-15 Coonawarra 14/7/98 HollickP 18.30Q A wine which reflects the white winemaking skills, with a range of winemaking techniques employed including barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation. Tends more to elegance than power in style. Now labelled Reserve Short termS 1995U Antipasto, grilled fishX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Hollick Chardonnay Hollick $16-20 Coonawarra 14/7/98 HoughtonP 10.95 A wine with an extraordinary pedigree over its 60-year history, made from a blend of Chenin Blanc, Muscadelle, Semillon, Verdelho and Chardonnay primarily grown in the Swan Valley and at Gingin. Released and almost entirely consumed within 12 months of vintage, it invariably matures wonderfully well in bottle over a six- to eight-year period, leading to tiny releases of the Show Reserve Wines which accumulate innumerable gold medals and trophies. R 5-7 yearsS 1996U Fish, chicken, vealX 14/7/98` CB MU SE VE CHa Swan Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f White Burgundy White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Houghton White Burgundy Houghton e under $10 Swan Valley 14/7/98 HoughtonP 10.95 A hugely underrated wine, which has also suffered from something of an identity crisis, sometimes effectively being released as Semillon, other times as a Semillon Sauvignon Blanc. The blend has now settled down as a 50% Semillon, 50% Sauvignon Blanc blend from the Margaret River, Manjimup and Mount Barker regions. The 95 vintage was the top gold medal in its class at the 1995 Mount Barker Wine Show, and is quite outstanding; the 96 is good, but not in the same class. Best drunk youngS 1996U Coquilles Saint JacquesX 14/7/98` SE SBa Swan Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _!Houghton Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Houghton e under $10 Swan Valley 14/7/98 HoughtonP 15.95 {Made from estate-grown grapes from Houghton s Gingin vineyard sourced from a single vine found by Jack Mann in 1945 and first propagated in commercial quantities in the Swan Valley in 1950, in turn providing the stock used in establishing the Gingin vineyard. Legitimately regarded as one of the special varieties of the Swan Valley/Gingin area, and which ages particularly well. 5+ yearsS 1995U Lobster mornayX 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Gold Reserve Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Houghton Gold Reserve Verdelho Houghton $11-15 Swan Valley 14/7/98 Howard ParkP RThe strikingly labelled and named Madfish Bay was designed by Maxine Fumagalli, a Noongar artist who lives in Denmark, Western Australia. The name itself comes from a favourite fishing spot 15 kilometres west of Denmark. The white is an unwooded blend of 85% Chardonnay, 15% Semillon and 5% Sauvignon Blanc from the Great Southern region. R Drink nowS 1996U,All shellfish, fish, light white meat dishesX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Madfish Bay Premium N Dry White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _)Howard Park Madfish Bay Premium Dry White Howard Park $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Howard ParkP The red wine brother of the dry white, made from a blend of 55% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot and 15% Pinot Noir grown in the Great Southern region and the Warren Valley, Western Australia. Like the white, made to be consumed while young and fresh a bright, modern bistro-style. R Drink nowS 1995U#Pasta, most Italian-accented dishesX 14/7/98` CF MT PNa Great Southernb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Madfish Bay Premium Dry Red Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _'Howard Park Madfish Bay Premium Dry Red Howard Park $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 HugoP 14.5Q The 12 hectares of estate vineyards drawn upon for the label are situated in the foothills of the Mount Lofty Ranges, and were established in 1950 by Colin Hugo. The vineyard is not irrigated, and the fruit flavours are intense. R 4-6 yearsS 1995U Lamb shashlikX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Red 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Hugo Shiraz $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Hungerford HillP SFirst made in 1993 from Mudgee-grown grapes, with the emphasis on the fruit, and no oak used either in fermentation or maturation. In 1995 the regional source switched to Young as the volume of grapes from that region increased. (In fact some grapes had been sourced from Young and used for Southcorp group winemaking purposes since 1992.) Up to 4 yearsS 1996U Asian cuisine, pastaX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Young Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Hungerford Hill Young Semillon Hungerford Hill $11-15 Hilltops t late note 14/7/98 Hungerford HillP KFirst made in 1993. Cowra has long been recognised as a high-quality producer of Chardonnay, with many famous labels starting off with this base, including Petaluma. The wine has very substantial, and presumably expensive, oak input from barrel fermentation, surprising given the price (and, one must say, the weight of the fruit). R Drink nowS 1995U Chicken, turkeyX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Cowra Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Hungerford Hill Cowra Chardonnay Hungerford Hill $11-15 Cowra t late note 14/7/98 Huntington EstateP One of the first producers of Cabernet Merlot in Australia, with 1.2 hectares of merlot alongside 12.3 of cabernet sauvignon most of the cabernet going into the wine under that label. First made in 1977, it ages very well, which is exactly as one would expect. 10-12 years 1992U GameX 14/7/98` CS MTa Mudgeeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _!Huntington Estate Cabernet Merlot Huntington Estate $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 Iron Pot BayP Made from 4 hectares of immaculately tended estate plantings of chardonnay, part of the grapes being sold, and part made for the Iron Pot Bay label. It is made in an unwooded style.R 2-3 yearsS 1996U Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Northern Tasmaniab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Iron Pot Bay Unwooded Chardonnay Iron Pot Bay Wines $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 JenkeP 13.50 Produced from slightly less than 4 hectares of estate-grown grapes situated adjacent to the North Para River. Until 1996 the Semillon was oak-matured, but in that year Kym Jenke decided instead to use 24 hours skin contact followed by cold fermentation in stainless steel. The result was a particularly full-flavoured wine which won two trophies at the Barossa Valley Wine Show of the same year for Best Barossa Valley Semillon and Best Small Maker. A very convincing illustration of the fact tBThat these full-bodied Barossa white wines are often better without oak than with it. R Drink nowS 1996U PastaX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Jenke Semillon Jenke Vineyards $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 N Jim BarryP 11.50 VThe often outstanding quality of this wine in recent years can be attributed in part to skilled winemaking but more particularly to the acquisition by Jim Barry of the famed Florita Vineyard at Watervale, once a jewel in the Leo Buring crown, and sold during a dark period of the latter s history. Leo Buring s loss has been Jim Barry s gain. 7 years or moreS 1996U Ginger porkX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) M Watervale Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Jim Barry Watervale Riesling Jim Barry Wines $11-15 Clare Valley t late note 14/7/98 N Jim BarryP Produced from the extensive plantings owned by Jim Barry, amounting to over 120 hectares in all. Always made in a ripe fruit style with bright flavours which initially seem a little confection-like but which settle down nicely with a few years in bottle.R 4-7 years 1994U Spiced beefX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Personal Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _/Jim Barry Personal Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Jim Barry Wines $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 JingallaP Produced from 2 hectares of riesling, with two clones, including the so-called Geisenheim clone. Consistent performer, always exhibiting abundant fruit flavour. R 3-6 yearsS 1996U Chinese or Thai cuisineX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Jingalla Riesling Jingalla $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 JingallaP !There are 1.5 hectares of semillon on the hillside vineyard, situated on the northern slopes of the Porongurup Ranges. Over the years, uncertain use of oak (perhaps due to budgetary constraints) has not helped the quality of the wine, but the 94 represents a distinct turn for the better. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Deep-fried calamariX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Jingalla Semillon Jingalla $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 JingallaP The 1 hectare of verdelho has produced some of Jingalla s best wines over the years, wines which age very well. The 1990 vintage tasted in late 94 was quite delicious, still lively and with years in front of it. The wine is barrel-fermented.R 5-7 yearsS 1996U Richer, spicier Chinese foodX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Jingalla Verdelho Jingalla $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 KaeslerP dYet further evidence of the restoration in the fortunes of grenache, which was in fact the major variety to suffer during the days of the Vine Pull Scheme during the 1980s. Much of the material was previously used in fortified winemaking at one extreme, and a little Ros at the other. Most now goes to table wine, rather than the Ros as in this instance. R Drink nowS 1994U Asian seafoodX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red M Bush Vine Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Kaesler Bush Vine Grenache Kaesler e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 N Kara KaraP Produced from 2 hectares of estate-grown grapes, typically showing ripe to very ripe fruit flavours running more into the tropical banana spectrum than the classic herbal gooseberry, augmented by rather heavy oak. Will appeal to some for this very reason.R Drink nowS 1995U Seafood risottoX 14/7/98` Pyreneesb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Kara Kara Sauvignon Blanc Kara Kara Vineyard $11-15 Pyrenees 14/7/98 KarinaP The estate has 1.25 hectares of cabernet sauvignon, 0.25 hectares of merlot. Vintages prior to the 92 have often shown good extract, but have been slightly tough or undermade. With the 92 and 93 vintages winemaker/owner Graeme Pinney seems to have got everything together. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U s liverX 14/7/98` CS MTa Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Karina Cabernet Merlot Karina Vineyard $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 N KarrivaleP The vineyard, progressively planted between 1979 and 1989, principally to riesling (with some recent plantings of chardonnay) nestles under the Gibraltar Rock of the Porongurup Ranges, on a gentle slope. Meticulous attention to viticulture has produced Rieslings which have always been of high quality, reaching a peak with the 94 vintage, a trophy winner at the 1994 Mount Barker Wine Show. 5-10 yearsS 1995, 1996U Cold tomato and basil soupX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Karrivale Riesling c Karrivale $11-15 Great Southern t late note 14/7/98 N KarriviewP lDue to the ultra-close spacing of the vineyard, with exceedingly narrow rows, all of the work is done by hand, but the quality of the wine makes the effort worthwhile, even if the price asked is far too low. The 92 and 93 vintages, tasted in late 1994, were uniformly outstanding; the 94 vintage came as a disappointment, the 95 as a magnificent recovery. 5+ yearsS 1995U Marron, yabbiesX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Karriview Chardonnay c Karriview $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 N KarriviewP Multiple vintages are available for sale at the winery. At their best, these Pinots are quite superb; the style is always challenging, and I have to confess that I completely missed the quality of the 94 when I first tasted it. The wines are quite stemmy and not at all lush; they can either be compared to mid-year Burgundies or (in the Australian context) to the Bass Phillip style. R 3-4 yearsS 1995U Quail saladX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Karriview Pinot Noir c Karriview $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 KellybrookP {A lovely wine made during Peter Draper s brief tenure as winemaker for Kellybrook. Quantities are limited, as there is less than 1 hectare of shiraz grapes on the estate, but the wine is yet further proof of the suitability of the Yarra Valley to this grape, which is in fact relatively sparsely grown in the region. The 1994 wine won a gold medal at the 1995 National Wine Show. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Rack of lambX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Kellybrook Shiraz Kellybrook $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 KillawarraP 8.95Q A somewhat amorphous blend of grapes including pinot noir and chardonnay, but also with others drawn from regions across South Australia, including Coonawarra, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Riverland and McLaren Vale.R Drink nowS Hors d oeuvres, oystersX 14/7/98` PN CHa Barossa Valleyb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Non Vintage X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Killawarra Non Vintage Brut Killawarra e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 KillawarraP 12.95 The regional and varietal base of this wine has moved around somewhat over the years, but by 1993 had settled on a classically conventional blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Coonawarra and Padthaway. This vintage had accumulated three trophies and seven gold medals by March 1996. R Drink nowS 1994U Hors d oeuvres, Asian foodX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Premier X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Killawarra Premier Brut Killawarra $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Knight Granite HillsP A new direction for Knight Granite Hills, being a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot which spent 30 months in French and American oak, and one suspects additional time in tank, for in January 1996 it gave every appearance of having been fairly recently bottled. In the year of its vintage it won a top gold medal at the Melbourne Show, the following year winning a silver. R 3-5 yearsS 1991U Loin of lambX 14/7/98` Macedonb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Reserve N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia _&Knight Granite Hills Reserve Cabernets Knight Granite Hills $26-50 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 KoppamurraP PThe label of these wines adds to the geographic confusion by describing the location of Koppamurra as in the Naracoorte Ranges, one of the possible names which may be given to the Joanna area. Be that as it may, the 1.2 hectares of merlot were planted way back in the 1970s, and this wine (released only in 375 ml bottles) is a bargain. R 4-6 yearsS 1995U Veal shanksX 14/7/98` Koppamurrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Merlot (375 ml) Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Koppamurra Merlot (375 ml) Koppamurra $11-15 Limestone Coast 14/7/98 KrondorfP xA multi-district blend made in the manner Krondorf has always made its Chardonnays, with prolonged skin contact prior to pressing, which leads to considerable colour and flavour development early in the wine s life, and which can be described as fly now, pay later winemaking. It does, however, usually present a full-flavoured, ready-to-drink style immediately on release. R Drink nowS 1996U Pasta with a creamy sauceX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Family Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"Krondorf Family Reserve Chardonnay Krondorf $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 KrondorfP 'As the label says, made from Coonawarra Shiraz sourced from parent Mildara and contract growers. While not in the same league as Wynns Coonawarra Estate or Penfolds Bin 128, it is certainly competitively priced, well made and does show clean, if somewhat light regional/varietal characteristics. R Drink nowS 1995U PizzaX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Coonawarra Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Krondorf Coonawarra Shiraz Krondorf $16-20 Coonawarra 14/7/98 KrondorfP Obviously enough, the brother to the Show Reserve Chardonnay. The style has varied somewhat over recent years, the 90 being elegant and cedary, the 91 riper, and much more influenced by American oak.R 3-5 yearsS 1991U Beef WellingtonX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Show Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _(Krondorf Show Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Krondorf $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 N Lark HillP }Chardonnay occupies a major portion of the 4-hectare estate vineyard (with a 2-hectare satellite on a neighbouring property). The wines are barrel-fermented, and are taken through malolactic fermentation to produce a textured, complex style away from primary fruit flavours. The 1995 won three trophies at the 1996 Royal Canberra Regional Wine Show including Champion Wine of Show. R 3-6 yearsS 1995U Crispy chickenX 14/7/98` Canberra Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Lark Hill Chardonnay c Lark Hill $21-25 Canberra District 14/7/98 N Lark HillP bOver the past four years the Lark Hill Rieslings have accumulated a trophy, two gold, two silver and six bronze medals in wine shows. The 1994 was the top gold medal against Australia s best Rieslings in Class 1 at the Cowra Wine Show (open nationally). The tasting note is for the wine as at that show; note that some bottles show a slightly pink tinge. R 3-5 yearsS 1996U GazpachoX 14/7/98` Canberra Districtb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Lark Hill Riesling c Lark Hill $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 LeasinghamP 33.99 Like peas in a pod with the Classic Clare Shiraz, a massively at times dauntingly powerful wine with layer upon layer of fruit and layer upon layer of American oak, bound together with lashings of tannin and extract. In many ways, a throwback to older times. 10-20 years 1993U Rich red meat dishesX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Classic Clare Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _+Leasingham Classic Clare Cabernet Sauvignon Leasingham $26-50 Clare Valley t late note 14/7/98 LeconfieldP JMade in two styles, the unwooded version released earlier than the barrel-fermented (and typically elegant) wooded version from Leconfield. It will be interesting to see how the better of the current crop of unwooded Chardonnays mature in bottle, even though they are undoubtedly intended for consumption immediately upon release. R Drink nowS 1995U Robe lobsterX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Leconfield Chardonnay Leconfield $11-15 Coonawarra 14/7/98 LeconfieldP Many great Leconfield Cabernet Sauvignons have appeared over the years, the 78 and 80 vintages being landmarks of the time (made by octogenarian Sydney Hamilton, Leconfield s founder). Some of the vintages from the early 90s tended to show pronounced herbaceous/dimethyl sulphide characters which will appeal to some more than others. While 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, does have a small amount of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the blend. R 5-7 yearsS 1995U Yearling steak, mild cheddarX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Leconfield Cabernet Leconfield $16-20 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Leo BuringP Bin DWT18 is a constant bin number, which does not change from one year to the next, but its regional source can and does. Thus the 1991 was a blend of 55% Eden Valley and 45% Barossa Valley material, while the 93 and 94 vintages are pure Eden Valley wines. The 92 won the Collotype Trophy at the Adelaide Wine Show for Best Varietal White Table Wine in 1992, a remarkable performance for a wine selling for less than $10. Discontinued 1997. R 3-7 yearsS 1994U Sugar-cured tunaX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) M Bin DWT18 Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Leo Buring Bin DWT18 Riesling Leo Buring e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Leo BuringP The basic Riesling in the Leo Buring range sourced from the Clare Valley, and in particular the Watervale subdistrict. While not in the class of the best Leo Buring wines, is extremely honest, with generous flavour, and will in fact repay medium-term cellaring. Discontinued 1997. Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Char-grilled octopusX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Bin DW33 Watervale Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _&Leo Buring Bin DW33 Watervale Riesling Leo Buring e under $10 Clare Valley 14/7/98 N LillydaleP 15.95 JOne of the pioneers of Chardonnay, with Alex White then making a fruit-driven rather than oak-driven style. The early vintages were very good by the standards of their time, but were outpaced by many others in the latter part of the 1980s. The decision has been taken to continue the lightly oaked style established by Alex White. R 2-3 years 1996U AvocadoX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Lillydale Chardonnay Lillydale Vineyards $11-15 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Little Gewurztraminer is a relatively rare grape in the Hunter Valley, but suits Ian Little s style of winemaking which enhances the aromatics and leaves enough residual sugar to attract those who like a touch of distinct sweetness to their white wines.R Drink nowS 1996U Rockmelon, cakesX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Gewurztraminer White Traminer Z Australia Little s Gewurztraminer Little s Winery $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Little 0Ian Little learnt his winemaking at Chateau Reynella in the days of Geoff Merrill, and amongst other things witnessed first-hand the making of some of Australia s best vintage Ports. Thus Little s has always produced interesting wines in this style, even if the current release is of indeterminate style. R 2-3 yearsS 1991U Petits foursX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Vintage Port (375 ml) X Fortified Z Australia Little s Vintage Port (375 ml) Little s Winery $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Little Like all the Little s white wines, cold fermented to emphasise the fruit aromas and with some interesting tropical characters emerging. The French oak stipulated on the label does not appear to be of particularly distinguished origin, and makes only a minor contribution to the wine. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Quiche LorraineX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Little s Semillon Little s Winery $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Long GullyP 11.30 Produced from estate-grown grapes grown on 7 hectares of gentle north-facing slopes. A mini-vertical tasting in February 1997 covering the 92 to 96 vintages showed wines of extraordinarily consistent style which are ageing slowly and gracefully. They are of only light to medium body, and tend to show up the least imperfection in the oak, which indeed is not always perfect, and looked particularly awkward in the 96 vintage but which may settle down with time. R 3-5 yearsS 1996U AbaloneX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Long Gully Chardonnay Long Gully Estate $11-15 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 LongleatP 10.50Q Produced from grapes grown on the estate vineyard which totals 25 hectares, situated near Murchison on the banks of the Goulburn River. R 3-6 yearsS 1995U Full-flavoured Asian dishesX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Longleat Riesling Longleat e under $10 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 LongleatP 14.50Q Grown not at Murchison, but in the cooler King Valley region, and matured in a mix of French and American oak barrels. Typically fruit, rather than oak-driven, and again with plenty of flavour notwithstanding the cooler growing conditions.R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Chinese lemon chickenX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Longleat Chardonnay Longleat $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 LongleatP 15.50Q Produced from 7 hectares of cabernet sauvignon grown on the vineyard situated at Murchison on the banks of the Goulburn River. The relatively warm climate produces wines of great depth of colour, flavour and extract.R 5-10 yearsS 1992U Lamb casseroleX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Longleat Cabernet Sauvignon Longleat $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 N McAlisterP QA blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot produced from low-yielding vines. The intention was to produce a Bordeaux-style wine, and Peter Edwards has succeeded in his aim. The wines are invariably sinewy and tight, sometimes a little astringent, and very different from the mainstream lush Australian red style. 10 yearsS 1994U Roast lambX 14/7/98` CS CF MTa Gippslandb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red The McAlister Cabernet Blends Z Australia McAlister The McAlister McAlister Vineyards $26-50 r Gippsland 14/7/98 McGuigan BrothersP 12.5Q A very high-flavoured style, always released very early, and which gained considerable attention when it won a trophy at the 1994 Hunter Valley Wine Show, following earlier success at the New World International Wine Show in the United States.R Drink nowS 1994U Spiced lambX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Red 5 Full-bodied dry red Bin 2000 N Hermitage Shiraz Z Australia _$McGuigan Brothers Bin 2000 Hermitage McGuigan Brothers $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 McWilliam 13.95 Part of a range of wines which appear sporadically, utilising small parcels of premium quality fruit produced from top regions. This wine received the trophy for Best Dry White Riesling at the 1993 Australian National Wine Show in Canberra, and continues to develop very well. Up to 10 yearsS 1990U Caesar saladX 14/7/98` Riverinab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Eden Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _ McWilliam s Eden Valley Riesling McWilliam $11-15 Eden Valley 14/7/98 McWilliam 18.95 @McWilliam s winemaker Jim Brayne has mastered the technically very difficult production of this style of wine, and the releases pose a serious challenge to the supremacy of De Bortoli. They are slower developing, which is a good thing, and the wines have won a large string of trophies and gold medals in national shows. Up to 10 yearsS 1994U Rich, sweet fruit-based dessertsX 14/7/98` Riverinab 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine JJ McWilliam Riverina Botrytis Semillon Sweet Sweet Z Australia _3McWilliam s JJ McWilliam Riverina Botrytis Semillon McWilliam $16-20 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 McWilliam ZAn interesting wine which reflects changing attitudes within the McWilliam s management and winemaking group. Hitherto the accent was on wines with long periods of bottle maturation, even if the wines themselves did not merit this. This is a non-vintage blend of some old and some much younger material, and works exceptionally well at the price. R Drink nowS PastaX 14/7/98` SH CSa Riverinab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Inheritance Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia _'McWilliam s Inheritance Shiraz Cabernet McWilliam e under $10 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 McWilliam 39.95 4This wine, blended to a constant quality and style, has amassed four trophies and 42 gold medals in its show career. Very long ageing in barrel is the secret; the wines do not have the intense Muscat fruit character of those of north-eastern Victoria when young, but do attain tremendous complexity with age. A winter s nightX 14/7/98` Riverinab 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified MCW11 Liqueur Muscat X Fortified Muscat Z Australia _ McWilliam s MCW11 Liqueur Muscat McWilliam $26-50 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 MadewP 12.95Q Produced in both conventional and late-picked modes, the latter with expected sweetness (nicely balanced by acidity) the former with an unexpected touch of sweetness which is no doubt directed to the substantial Canberra-based tiny winery.R Short termS 1993U AntipastoX 14/7/98` Canberra Districtb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Madew Riesling Madew Wines $11-15 Canberra District 14/7/98 MarienbergP 14.95 Marienberg does not have any vineyards of its own, relying upon a spread of contract growers over the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. The wines are now made by Grant Burge, and, as one would expect, are invariably competently handled, and deliberately aimed at the commercial market. R Drink nowS 1996U Creamy pastaX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Marienberg Chardonnay Marienberg $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 MaxwellP There is in fact a Reserve Shiraz, which is in theory superior to the Ellen Street, but I have often preferred the latter wine for its outstanding varietal character. Once again, high-quality fruit does the work, with oak playing a pure support role.R 6-9 yearsS 1994U KangarooX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Ellen Street Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Maxwell Ellen Street Shiraz Maxwell Wines $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 MaxwellP ZMaxwell was one of the early experimenters with Merlot in McLaren Vale, blending it with Cabernet Sauvignon to produce a wine which is often powerful and full-flavoured, although the 93 is rather lighter and more elegant, reflecting the cool growing season. Matured in a mix of French and American oak, but a fruit, rather than oak-driven style. R 3-7 yearsS 1996U Scotch filletX 14/7/98` CS MT McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Maxwell Cabernet Merlot Maxwell Wines e under $10 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 MeadowbankP OOne of the wines to fulfil the promise for so long held out by Tasmania. The wine has come of age under the direction of former Normans winemaker Greg O Keefe, who acts as contract-winemaker for Meadowbank as well as a number of other growers throughout Tasmania. Made from estate-grown grapes, with 4 hectares of pinot in production. R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Tasmanian venisonX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Meadowbank Pinot Noir Meadowbank Wines $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 N MerrivaleP Draws upon 2 hectares of estate cabernet sauvignon and 2 hectares of estate shiraz; the wine has always been full-flavoured, but the 91 vintage in particular seemed to suffer from a surprising degree of neglect. The 92 vintage shows no such problems.R 4-7 yearsS 1992U Braised lamb shanksX 14/7/98` CS SHa McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Tapestry Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _"Merrivale Tapestry Cabernet Shiraz Merrivale Wines $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 N MerrivaleP Again, produced from 2 hectares of estate-grown grapes. It is an extremely powerful wine which borders on toughness, possibly due to low sulphur levels which have led to somewhat inconsistent tasting notes.R'Uncertain; theoretically up to 10 yearsS 1993U Strong red meat dishesX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Tapestry Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _%Merrivale Tapestry Cabernet Sauvignon Merrivale Wines $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 MildaraP The premium Bordeaux-blend from Mildara, utilising estate-grown cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. It is made in a slow-developing style, which takes time to knit together; this may be why it is not released until it is at least four years old. 5-10 yearsS 1992U Lamb loinX 14/7/98` CS MT CFa Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Alexanders Cabernet Blends Z Australia Mildara Alexanders Mildara (Coonawarra) $21-25 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 MildaraP Arguably the most famous Coonawarra red of the past 30 years, and certainly the best from Mildara. Tasted at the Legends of Coonawarra dinner held in Sydney in late 1994, still drinking superbly and still showing those hallmark flavours. Long nicknamed Peppermint Pattie R Drink nowS Fine cheddar, parmesanX 10/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red 1963 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _*Mildara 1963 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Mildara (Coonawarra) Coonawarra 10/7/98 MiramarP "At the end of 1994, Ian MacRae was still offering the 1988 Cabernet Sauvignon, which in his words, Has been a slow learner but in the last year or so has really come together . Only in Mudgee could one find a Cabernet of this quality and age at this price. He has now passed on to the 7-12 yearsS 1994U Mild cheddarX 14/7/98` Mudgeeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Miramar Cabernet Sauvignon Miramar $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 MiramarP Miramar has been one of the leading producers of Chardonnay in the Mudgee district for many years. What is more, the wines are unusually long-lived, winning trophies and gold medals at up to ten years of age. The wine is sometimes delicate when young, peachy and rich when old. Up to 10 yearsS 1994U Deep-fried calamariX 14/7/98` Mudgeeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Miramar Chardonnay Miramar $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 MirandaP 10.99 The 1993 vintage was sourced from the Riverina (40%), Eden Valley (20%), Barossa Valley (17%), King Valley (13%), and Hunter Valley (10%). Just to add further complexity, it is 85% Chardonnay, 13% Semillon and 2% Sauvignon Blanc. Surprisingly, given a wine of this price, it was barrel-fermented in new American oak barriques and aged in those barrels for seven months. This wine has won four medals in national shows. R Drink nowS 1993U Ginger porkX 14/7/98` CH SEa Riverina b 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Wyangan Estate Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Miranda Wyangan Estate Chardonnay Miranda e under $10 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 MitcheltonP 15.95 Introduced in 1993 with a very distinctive oval label, yet another demonstration of the skills of graphic design artist Brian Sadgrove. Made from a blend of Marsanne, Grenache and Viognier, grown in the Goulburn Valley, with Marsanne the major component.R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Mediterranean-style seafoodX 14/7/98` MR GR VIa Goulburn Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) M III White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Mitchelton III White Mitchelton $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 MitcheltonP 22.95 No particular region of origin is claimed for the wine, nor is any given in the promotional material. Instead Don Lewis says, over several years I have identified a number of vineyard sites producing chardonnay grapes of extraordinary quality . It is a reasonable assumption that these include sites in both the Goulburn River and the Yarra Valley. The 92 vintage, incidentally, won seven trophies and innumerable gold medals. R 4-7 yearsS 1993U Crumbed brainsX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Victoria Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Mitchelton Victoria Reserve Chardonnay Mitchelton $21-25 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 MitcheltonP 15.95Q First made in 1992 as a partner to the Mitchelton III White and, like its partner, a Rh ne-inspired blend of Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvedre, all grown in the Goulburn Valley. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Braised duckX 14/7/98` SH GR MOa Goulburn Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red III Red Shiraz Blends Z Australia Mitchelton III Red Mitchelton $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Moondah BrookP 14.95 Stakes a strong claim as Australia s best Chenin Blanc. Produced entirely from Moondah Brook s Gingin Vineyard, the 92 won the White Wine of the Year Award in the 1993 Wine magazine International Wine Challenge in London. The 93, by contrast, came from a perfect vintage. The wines are cold fermented and then matured in new American oak for six months. As the 87 Show Reserve demonstrated in 1994, ages into a buttery, unctuous wine. Up to 7 yearsS 1995U Prosciutto and figsX 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Chenin Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Moondah Brook Chenin Blanc Moondah Brook $11-15 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Moondah BrookP 14.95 <Sourced predominantly from the Gingin Vineyard, but with a smaller contribution from the Margaret River. It is cold fermented in stainless steel, and not given any oak maturation. The wine can develop wonderful secondary characters given time in bottle, with attractive tropical and citrus fruit aromas and flavours. Up to 6 yearsS 1996U Sugar-cured tunaX 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Moondah Brook Verdelho Moondah Brook $11-15 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Moorilla EstateP ZFor many years Moorilla Estate harboured the ambition to produce great Pinot Noir, and indeed to become a Pinot Noir specialist. For whatever reason, and despite the immaculate tending of the 4 hectares of estate grapes, it has been a reluctant performer a fact recognised by Moorilla in the pricing of the wine at the bottom end of the scale. R 3-4 yearsS 1993U QuailX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Moorilla Estate Pinot Noir Moorilla Estate $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Moorooduc EstateP Produced from 1 hectare of estate plantings with two clones: D2V5 and D5V12. Typically very fragrant, sappy and spicy, excelling in vintages such as 1992. R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Asian meat dishesX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Moorooduc Estate Pinot Noir Moorooduc Estate $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 MorningsideP ;Produced from ultra-close-planted vines, with 1.8 metres between the rows, and 1.25 metres between the vines. The concentration of flavour no doubt partially reflects this very close planting, but also the northeast-facing slopes, which are only 100 metres above sea level, and which have a limestone-based subsoil. R 2-3 yearsS 1993U HareX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Morningside Pinot Noir Morningside Wines $11-15 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 MorrisP 15.95 ]Made from the muscadelle grape, used as a minor component in Sauternes, but nowhere else in the world used to make fortified dessert wines. In this version, which contains a greater percentage of younger material (two to four years old) than the premium labels, the accent is thrown firmly onto the very distinctive varietal character of muscadelle. NAU)Either aperitif or at the end of the mealX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Liqueur Tokay X Fortified Tokay Z Australia Morris Liqueur Tokay Morris $11-15 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Morris :[4.5wine glasses] Light to medium golden-brown; a fragrant bouquet with fresh tea-leaf varietal aroma. There is masses of flavour on the palate, yet the wine is quite fresh with archetypal cold tea and butterscotch flavours, with the mid-palate sweetness followed by a cleansing, crisp finish. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx NV <f"Bembo">Light to medium golden-brown; a fragrant bouquet with fresh tea-leaf varietal aroma. There is masses of flavour on the palate, yet the wine is quite fresh with archetypal cold tea and butterscotch flavours, with the mid-palate sweetness followed by a cleansing, crisp finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MorrisP 13.95 WAs with the Tokay in the same range, the accent is thrown onto the varietal character of Muscat, otherwise known as Brown Frontignac. The style differs from that of Baileys, which tends to be sweet and in some ways more complex, but with less clarity of varietal character. Which of the two one prefers is very much a matter of personal taste. Aperitif or digestifX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Liqueur Muscat X Fortified Muscat Z Australia Morris Liqueur Muscat Morris $11-15 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Morris [4.5wine glasses] Light to medium red-brown; clearly articulated, lively, raisiny muscat varietal aromas. In the mouth you can literally taste the grapes, as if one were chewing on an explosively rich raisin; great length, and perfect balance. RATING: 91 @BM bold:XXXXx NV <f"Bembo">Light to medium red-brown; clearly articulated, lively, raisiny muscat varietal aromas. In the mouth you can literally taste the grapes, as if one were chewing on an explosively rich raisin; great length, and perfect balance. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">91 MorrisP 41.95 +Here the component of old material is much greater than in the less-expensive standard Liqueur range. The blending of young, middle-aged and very old wines lies at the heart of the style, with a tiny percentage of 30 and 40-year-old wood-aged material having a disproportionate impact on the blend. Coffee, petits foursX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Old Premium Liqueur Muscat X Fortified Muscat Z Australia _!Morris Old Premium Liqueur Muscat Morris $26-50 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Morris F[5wine glasses] Medium to full tawny, with a hint of olive on the rim. A rich bouquet with complex caramel, toffee and coffee aromas intermingling with the raisins. The palate shows more of the raisiny varietal fruit, although the complexity of the bouquet does repeat itself. A great example of blending. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Medium to full tawny, with a hint of olive on the rim. A rich bouquet with complex caramel, toffee and coffee aromas intermingling with the raisins. The palate shows more of the raisiny varietal fruit, although the complexity of the bouquet does repeat itself. A great example of blending.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 Mount HurtleP 12.95 As is the case with the Sauvignon Blanc, drawing upon a wide variety of fruit sources and regions, and tailored to the needs and requirements of a particular market sector. The 94 vintage was composed of 45% McLaren Vale, 25% Mildura, 25% Coonawarra and 5% Goulburn Valley material. R Drink nowS 1995U Grilled spatchcockX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Mount Hurtle Chardonnay Mount Hurtle $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Mount HurtleP 14.95Q Yet more of the same from Mount Hurtle; an immaculately made wine which is sufficiently light and fresh to be enjoyed immediately upon release, and which is not intended to be cellared, but simply enjoyed.R Drink nowS 1994U Italian cuisineX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Mount Hurtle Shiraz Mount Hurtle $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Mount HurtleP 14.95Q A blend of 54% Goulburn Valley, 27% McLaren Vale and 13% Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, rounded off with 6% of Merlot from McLaren Vale. A wine deliberately fashioned in a drink-now style.R 1994U RisottoX 14/7/98` CS MTa McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Mount Hurtle Cabernet Merlot Mount Hurtle $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Mount MaryP /The first Yarra Valley Pinot Noir I tasted, and was largely responsible for my move to the Yarra Valley seven or eight years later. The wine remains one of the classics of the region, deceptively elegant when young, and with a totally surprising capacity to age if the vintage conditions have been kind. R 3-7 yearsS 1994U Breast of squabX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Red 4 Light-bodied dry redf Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Mount Mary Pinot Noir Mount Mary $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Mount MaryP First made in 1977; one of few wines in Australia to include in its makeup the five classic grape varieties of Bordeaux: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. This wine is Mount Mary s finest; at its best the ultimate expression of the style, at its least showing that the climate of the Yarra Valley can treat the later-ripening varieties with harshness. 5-15 yearsS! Boned loin of lambX 14/7/98` CS MT CF MA PVa Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Cabernets Quintet Cabernet Blends Z Australia Mount Mary Cabernets Quintet Mount Mary $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Nicholson RiverP Produced from half a hectare of 18-year-old vines, producing 150 180 cases of wine a year. Arguably the most powerful and complex Chardonnay made in Australia today. The wine has everything: concentrated fruit, abundant use of French oak, deliberately challenging winemaking techniques which place the emphasis on structure and weight, and away from primary fruit characters. It is a style which polarises opinion. The wine is matured in a mix of French-coopered barrels, 30% new. For seven yeaBWrs in a row, it was the most popular white wine at the Victorian Winemakers Exhibition. R 3-7 yearsS 1996U Pheasant with trufflesX 3376Z 14/7/98` CHa Gippslandb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Nicholson River Chardonnay Nicholson River $26-50 r Gippsland t late note 14/7/98 Nicholson RiverP While a traditional Hunter Valley blend, rare elsewhere: only Montara uses the two grapes together in Victoria on a regular basis. This wine works surprisingly well.R Drink nowS 1994U Smoked quailX 14/7/98` CS MT CFa Gippslandb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Pinot Noir Shiraz Blends Z Australia _!Nicholson River Shiraz Pinot Noir Nicholson River $16-20 r Gippsland 14/7/98 NormansP 22.95 Like the Chais Clarendon Shiraz, primarily sourced from the Clarendon region high in the southern end of the Adelaide Hills. All of the wines in the Chais Clarendon range receive some new oak which adds a dimension not possessed by the other Normans wines. R 6-8 yearsS! 1995U Fillet of beef with bone marrowX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Chais Clarendon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _*Normans Chais Clarendon Cabernet Sauvignon Normans $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 NormansP Only 5% of Normans crush is estate-grown. The remainder (including the grapes for this wine) are supplied by contract-growers. It is a wine which can rise way above its station, as it did in 1992, showing the consummate skills of winemaker Brian Light.R 3-6 yearsS 1993U Veal kidneysX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _)Normans Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Normans $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 OrlandoP 11.95 Sourced from botrytised Semillon grown in the Griffith region, and a marked departure in style from the original dessert table wines made from semillon which were released under the briefly famous Goldbeeren label, made from cane-cut, late-harvested (and non-botrytised) Barossa semillon. R 1-2 yearsS 1993U me br 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Gramp Botrytis Semillon (375 ml) Sweet Sweet Z Australia _*Orlando Gramp s Botrytis Semillon (375 ml) Orlando $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 PanoramaP Produced entirely from pinot noir grown on the 3 hectares of estate vineyards, which are close planted and part organic, with no pesticides of any description used.R Up to 5 yearsS 1993U Coq au vinX 14/7/98` Southern Tasmaniab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Panorama Pinot Noir Panorama $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Passing CloudsP Contrary to what one might expect, 1992 marked the first release of a 100% Shiraz from Passing Clouds; prior to that time the Shiraz was used in the various Shiraz Cabernet blends. It is an extremely auspicious start, albeit from a very good vintage.R 10+ yearsS 1994U CassouletX 14/7/98` Bendigob 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Passing Clouds Shiraz Passing Clouds $16-20 Bendigo 14/7/98 Passing CloudsP >A special limited release selected by Tasmanian wine merchant Ben Vaughan, who chose one barrel each of late-picked Shiraz and middle-vintage Cabernet Sauvignon for their outstanding quality and compatibility. The blend works exceptionally well, underpinning the very high quality of the 92 vintage at Passing Clouds. R 10+ yearsS 1992U Lamb casseroleX 14/7/98` SH CSa Bendigob 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red s Blend Cabernet Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _*Passing Clouds Ben s Blend Cabernet Shiraz Passing Clouds $16-20 Bendigo 14/7/98 PattersonsP The second string to the Pattersons bow, although the Pinot Noir can be good in some years. Normally offered with at least three years bottle age, and usually with one or two vintages available concurrently at cellar door.R 4-7 yearsS 1994U Duck casseroleX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Pattersons Shiraz Pattersons $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 PaulettP WProduced from 4 hectares of estate plantings on the Polish Hill River slopes. While in classic Clare-style, often develops a little more quickly than many of the other Rieslings of the district, which is no bad thing. The 95 was a classic, topping the Premium Riesling class at the 1996 Royal Sydney Wine Show; the 96 is very nearly as good. R 2-6 yearsS 1996U Quiche LorraineX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Paulett Riesling Paulett $11-15 Clare Valley t late note 14/7/98 PaulettP 14.5Q Consistently one of the best of the Paulett range, always full-flavoured. It comes from a little over 3 hectares of estate-grown grapes. R 5-8 yearsS 1995U Beef casseroleX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Paulett Shiraz Paulett $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 PaulettP 14.5Q A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, predominantly coming from estate-grown grapes. Made in a direct style, and definitely at the lighter edge of the spectrum of Clare Valley reds. Matured in predominantly French oak for 15 months. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Beef shashlikX 14/7/98` CS MTa Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Paulett Cabernet Merlot Paulett $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Pendarves EstateP nThe flagship wine of Pendarves in the sense that, along with Chardonnay, it occupies pride of place in the vineyard, with just under 4.5 hectares of vines. Dr Philip Norrie is a tireless advocate of the variety, which was much in favour around the turn of the century before largely disappearing, and is now undergoing a substantial renaissance in the Hunter Valley. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Seafood saladX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Pendarves Estate Verdelho Pendarves Estate $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Pendarves EstateP A star at the 1994 Winewise Small Makers Competition, and likewise at the 1993 Hunter Valley Small Winemakers Show. The Merlot and Malbec components come from estate-grown grapes; the Cabernet Sauvignon is purchased from contract growers. The 92 was an exceptionally good wine given the intermediate status of the vintage across the Hunter Valley for red wines, the 93 being the best performer of the Pendarves entries at the 1995 Hunter Valley Wine Show. R 2-4 yearsS 1993U Steak DianeX 14/7/98` CS MT MAa Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Malbec Cabernet Blends Z Australia _'Pendarves Estate Cabernet Merlot Malbec Pendarves Estate $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Peter LehmannP What's in a name? Prior to 1993, the Peter Lehmann Riesling was made from 100% Eden Valley fruit, even though the label itself stated Barossa reflecting the historic view that the Eden Valley district of the eastern Barossa Ranges was part of the Barossa Valley. Then, as from 1993 a component of Barossa floor riesling was introduced into the wine, and the 1994 vintage is a blend of 60% Eden Valley and 40% Barossa Valley material. The label now states this, and has also dropped the word B Rhine , a move to be applauded. R 2-6 yearsS 1996U Grilled bream, whitingX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Barossa Eden Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _#Peter Lehmann Barossa Eden Riesling Peter Lehmann $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 PikesP 14.95 zSauvignon blanc has always been an important variety for Pikes: the vineyards have a little over 3.5 hectares each of sauvignon blanc, riesling and shiraz, with lesser quantities of other varieties. There is no question that the wine performs better in some years than in others: the suspicion is that the Clare Valley is not as well suited to the variety as (say) McLaren Vale. R Drink nowS 1995U Shellfish, crabX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Pikes Sauvignon Blanc Pikes $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 PikesP 18.95 Produced from 3.5 hectares of estate plantings. The 1993 is slightly out of the mainstream, and very much the product of a cooler vintage, but is nonetheless particularly attractive as a lighter example of Clare Valley Shiraz; the 94 is a total contrast, being much riper in style. &R 3-7 yearsS 1994U Mature cheddar, Kraft parmesanX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Pikes Shiraz Pikes $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Pipers BrookP First made in 1981. Pipers Brook is now able to draw upon three distinct estate-owned vineyard sources: Pipers Brook Vineyard, Pellion Vineyard and Ninth Island Vineyard. The expanded base has strengthened an already distinguished wine which is made using the full range of techniques including barrel fermentation and partial malolactic fermentation. The style is always elegant, and longer-lived than Australian Chardonnays grown in warmer regions. Incidentally, these wines typically achieveB4 high sugar (and hence alcohol) levels of about 13%. R 4-7 yearsS 1995U Veal in white sauceX 14/7/98` Northern Tasmaniab 2 White 'c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Pipers Brook Chardonnay Pipers Brook Vineyard $26-50 Northern Tasmania t late note 14/7/98 Pipers BrookP 18.15Q One of the most exotic blends to be found in Australia: 80% Pinot Noir, and 20% Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Very much a caf /brasserie style, crisp, cleansing and, above all else, different.R Drink nowS 1995U Seafood saladX 14/7/98` PN SE SBa Northern Tasmaniab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Ninth Island Straits Dry White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _+Pipers Brook Ninth Island Straits Dry White Pipers Brook Vineyard $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 PirramimmaP Not a common blend in the McLaren Vale, drawing upon a little under 3 hectares of estate Semillon in addition to the Chardonnay component. Like the Chardonnay, there is little or no oak influence on the wine, which represents good value.R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Smoked eelX 14/7/98` SE CHa McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon Chardonnay White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Pirramimma Semillon Chardonnay Pirramimma e under $10 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 PlantagenetP 21.95 Usually draws upon four different vineyards in the Mount Barker region deliberately harvested at varying levels of ripeness to increase the flavour complexity. It is barrel-fermented in a mix of Vosges, Allier and Troncais oak, with a percentage taken through malolactic fermentation. It is invariably a generously proportioned wine, while still retaining some of the tighter, cool-grown characters one would expect. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Breast of chickenX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Mount Barker Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _#Plantagenet Mount Barker Chardonnay Plantagenet $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 PlantagenetP 22.95 YIt draws upon 4 hectares of estate plantings, the style varying with the vintage. In cooler years the vibrant pepper/spice characters are to the fore, in warmer years it tends more to liquorice, dark cherry and berry. The one consistent feature is the quality of the wine. Spends 18 months in 100% French oak, the majority first and second use. 5-10 yearsS! 1994U Hare, squabX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Plantagenet Shiraz Plantagenet $21-25 Great Southern t late note 14/7/98 PlantagenetP 19.50 7Made from the classic blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the 1990 vintage being entirely made at Plantagenet and deservedly winning the trophy for Best Sparkling Wine at the 1994 Mount Barker Wine Show. The quality of the wine is indeed outstanding, and adds another string to the bow of this fine wine region. ,R Drink nowS 1990U AperitifX 14/7/98` CH PNa Great Southernb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Mount Barker X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Plantagenet Mount Barker Brut Plantagenet $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Poole s RockP LRight from the outset, this 100% estate-grown wine has been made in full-blown fashion by contract winemaker Iain Riggs (of Brokenwood). The propensity of Hunter Valley Chardonnay to produce a rich, buttery, peachy wine was given free rein, complexed by partial malolactic fermentation and maturation in French Vosges oak barriques. R 1-2 yearsS 1995U%Full-flavoured chicken or veal dishesX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Poole s Rock Chardonnay Poole s Rock $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Port Phillip EstateP QThe 1.5 hectares of pinot noir were planted in 1987 and 1988, with two clones (D2V5 and D5V12) being used. The early wines were relatively light-bodied, but with good varietal character, since 1994 they have become much more intense, reflecting the increasing maturity of the vineyards and the skill of contract-winemaker Lindsay McCall. R Drink nowS 1995U QuailX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Port Phillip Estate Pinot Noir Port Phillip Estate $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Port Phillip EstateP iYet another wine which points up a strange phenomenon: while the Mornington Peninsula may be a difficult region in which to find the right place to grow cabernet sauvignon and merlot, it seems able to produce striking shiraz in a wide variety of sites. The wine has abundant fruit character which effectively swallows up the American oak in which it is matured. R 3-6 yearsS 1994U Stewed oxtailX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Port Phillip Estate Shiraz Port Phillip Estate $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 PortreeP A very interesting wine which has some parallels with the wines of Chinon in the Loire Valley. The grape variety is the same (cabernet franc), and the climate similar. The best thing about the wine is that it is a genuine Ros style, rather than a thin red wine. R Drink nowS 1995U Yakitori chickenX 14/7/98 Macedonb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Damask Z Australia Portree Damask Portree $11-15 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 Primo EstateP The original Primo Estate late harvest dessert wines were made using rack-dried, artificially botrytised grapes. Since 1991 the style (and the source) has changed radically, now utilising Eden Valley Riesling which is either naturally botrytised, or naturally raisined. Says Joe Grilli This wine is not a study in how concentrated can a sweet wine be ... we are aiming for a wine that is delicious to drink R 2-5 yearsS 1995U Orange souffl 14/7/98` Adelaide Plainsb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Botrytis Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia Primo Estate Botrytis Riesling Primo Estate $21-25 Adelaide Plains 14/7/98 RedgateP Draws upon 5 hectares of estate plantings; the estate Merlot and Cabernet Franc are included in the softer Bin 588 Cabernet. The Cabernet Sauvignon is made in an uncompromising firm, slightly gravelly style which is very typical of the region. R 5-10 yearsS 1993U Mature cheddarX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Redgate Cabernet Sauvignon Redgate $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 RenmanoP For years made in a totally distinctive, fast-maturing, over-the-top style, loaded with peachy/buttery fruit and oak which could look hugely attractive when very young, but which became fat and blowsy after a year or two. A change in the winemaking team led to a radical transformation with the 96 wine, which won three trophies at the 1996 Adelaide Wine Show, including the Miller Trophy for Best White Table Wine in Show. Winemaker Glenn James has produced a much finer wine style, though stB ill not destined for long cellaring. Showed it is still travelling well by winning a gold medal at the Liquorland National Wine Show in November 1997. R Drink nowS 1996U Braised porkX 14/7/98` CHa Riverlandb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chairman s Selection Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _'Renmano Chairman s Selection Chardonnay Renmano e under $10 Murray Valley 14/7/98 Ribbon ValeP Produced from 2 hectares of semillon grown on the uniquely shaped estate which is only 150 metres wide and 1.5 kilometres long hence the name. Always herbaceous in style, it comes into its own in years such as 1993.R 2-4 yearsS 1996U Marron or yabbiesX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Ribbon Vale Semillon Ribbon Vale Estate $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 Richard HamiltonP Made from grapes grown on loamy soil at Willunga, with the inclusion of a small proportion of sauvignon blanc. An unwooded, modern, bright caf -style with plenty of flavour. R 1-4 yearsS 1994, 1995U Seafood, Asian cuisineX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Farm Block Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _$Richard Hamilton Farm Block Semillon Richard Hamilton $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Richard HamiltonP First produced in 1979 from grapes planted in 1975, and one of the first wines of its variety made in McLaren Vale, if not the first. The style has wandered around somewhat over the years, but really came into its own in 1992 and 1993, and returned to that form in 1996. R 2-5 yearsS 1996U Blue swimmer crabX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Richard Hamilton Chardonnay Richard Hamilton $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Richard Hamilton Richard HamiltonP Named in honour of Burton Hamilton (1904 1994), who was Richard Hamilton s father. He established his McLaren Vale vineyards in 1947, providing the base material for the best of the Richard Hamilton red wines. Released under this label since the early 1990s, the wine is a blend of Grenache and Shiraz, with the percentage of Grenache varying between 60% and 70% according to vintage conditions. Rich and mouthfilling, like all of the best of these wine styles, its character derives strictly fB0rom the fruit, with no discernible oak flavour. R 2-5 yearsS 1995U Mild Indian curryX 14/7/98` GR SHa McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Burton s Vineyard Grenache Shiraz Shiraz Blends Z Australia _2Richard Hamilton Burton s Vineyard Grenache Shiraz Richard Hamilton $11-15 17.01 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Richmond GroveP 12.95 gThe initial release of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon under the Richmond Grove label, matured in a mix of French and American oak casks for 18 months before blending and bottling. It is a wine of light to medium intensity, not surprising given its modest price. The 94 was a (somewhat lucky, perhaps) gold medal winner at the 1996 Canberra National Wine Show. R Drink nowS 1994U Lamb cutletsX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _,Richmond Grove Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Richmond Grove $11-15 Coonawarra 14/7/98 9N RivendellP 12.50Q Made from the initial 2-hectare plantings of semillon and sauvignon blanc established in 1987, and the first wine made (in 1990) in a direct style, without the intervention of oak, and typical of the Margaret River region. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Lobster bisqueX 14/7/98` SE SB Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _"Rivendell Semillon Sauvignon Blanc c Rivendell $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 RiverinaP 7.50Q An unashamedly commercial wine which is modestly priced, which has plenty of flavour, and which has sufficient residual sugar to capture its target audience.R Drink nowS 1994U Sweet and sour porkX 14/7/98` CHa Riverina b 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Ballingal Estate Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Riverina Ballingal Estate Chardonnay Riverina Wines e under $10 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 RiverinaP Made in the only way possible, with extensive use of stainless steel tanks and judicious use of oak chips. The result is a very fresh, fruity wine which, like the Chardonnay, suits its market very well.R Drink nowS 1995U Spaghetti bologneseX 14/7/98` CSa Riverina b 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Ballingal Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _,Riverina Ballingal Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Riverina Wines e under $10 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 Robinsons FamilyP Produced from a little over 4 hectares of estate vineyards, which wend their way up hill and down dale, through patches of eucalyptus forest and scrub. An important wine for Robinsons, and won the 1994 Sheraton/Courier-Mail Award for Best Queensland Dry White. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Queensland mud crabX 14/7/98` Granite Beltb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Robinsons Family Chardonnay Robinsons Family Vineyards $11-15 Granite Belt 14/7/98 =N RobinvaleP Made from certified biodynamic, estate-grown grapes, but vinified using conventional techniques, including the incorporation of American and French oak. R Drink nowS 1994U Roast chickenX 14/7/98` Murray Darling and Swan Hillb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Robinvale Chardonnay c Robinvale $11-15 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 >N RobinvaleP >The provenance of the Zinfandel is not stated; it is a very rare grape in Australia, and I have not previously heard of it being grown on the Murray River Robinvale Wines, however, has 1 hectare planted. The blend with Merlot makes the wine even more unusual, the exotic label being matched by the wine in the glass. R Drink nowS 1995U Highly spiced meatsX 14/7/98` ZI MTa Murray Darling and Swan Hillb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Zinfandel Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Robinvale Zinfandel Merlot c Robinvale $11-15 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 Rosabrook EstateP Rosabrook Estate is still in its early days, and Dan Pannell (son of Bill and Margaret Pannell) has not been long in charge of winemaking for Perth-based owners Dr John Shepherd and wife Joan. However, the 1991 and 1992 Cabernet Merlots, made from estate-grown grapes, show considerable promise, particularly the latter wine, which really is outstanding; still available from cellar door in January 1996. R 4-7 yearsS 1992U Roast vealX 14/7/98` CS MTa Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _ Rosabrook Estate Cabernet Merlot Rosabrook Estate $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 Rothbury EstateP "Originally sourced from the Lower Hunter Valley, but now increasingly taken from the Denman plantings and from other parts of south-eastern Australia. It is not particularly complex, and does not aspire to greatness or a long life, but is well made and well flavoured, providing good value. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Wiener schnitzelX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Silver Label Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _'Rothbury Estate Silver Label Chardonnay Rothbury Estate e under $10 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Rothbury EstateP 18.50 aFirst made in 1990, and an overnight success, although that particular wine has developed disconcertingly quickly. Initially intended for the export market, it is now sold both domestically and overseas, achieving great distinction with the 1992 vintage which won the Bert Bear Trophy for Best One Year Old Table Wine at the 1993 Royal Sydney Wine Show. R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Loin of porkX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Barrel Fermented Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _+Rothbury Estate Barrel Fermented Chardonnay Rothbury Estate $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Rothbury EstateP Another wine to undergo various metamorphoses over the years, the most significant being with the wonderful 1993 vintage which received a gold medal at the 1994 London Wine Challenge in the Rh ne Style Dry Red class. Up to that year the label specified that the wine was from the Hunter Valley; no claim is made for the 93 which is, quite evidently, a very classy regional blend incorporating some cool-climate Shiraz, presumably from Victoria. 5-10 yearsS 1994U Beef bourguignonX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Rothbury Estate Shiraz Rothbury Estate $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Rothbury EstateP Produced only in the very best vintages, with three wines made since its inception in 1989 that year, 1991 and 1993. Powerful fruit from low-yielding Lower Hunter estate Shiraz is cleverly married with quality American oak to produce a wine in radically different style from anything produced by Rothbury prior to 1989. The 93 vintage is a particular favourite of Len Evans, who believes it will develop in similar fashion to the famous 1959 Lindemans Bin 1590. R 10+ yearsS 1993U Entrecote of beefX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Reserve Hunter Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _,Rothbury Estate Reserve Hunter Valley Shiraz Rothbury Estate $26-50 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Rouge HommeP While in price terms the flagship of the range, does not seem to have the quality edge over the other wines that one might expect. Certainly it is well made, coming as it does from 100% Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, and being matured in French oak hogsheads for 15 months. The weight and concentration of the wine has increased significantly in recent vintages. The 96 was a gold medal winner at the 1997 Liquorland National Wine Show. R 3-6 yearsS 1993U Roast leg of lambX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Rouge Homme Cabernet Sauvignon Rouge Homme $16-20 Coonawarra t late note Changed 14/7/98 Rouge HommeP 12.95 SAs with so many of the Southcorp group wines, you get a surprising amount for your dollars. Seventy per cent of the blend was barrel-fermented in new French oak hogsheads and matured on its lees for three months before being matured in a mix of those barrels and one-year-old Troncais and Allier barriques for seven months before bottling. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Pan-fried vealX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Richardson White Block White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _$Rouge Homme Richardson s White Block Rouge Homme $11-15 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Rouge HommeP This is the descendant of Rouge Homme Claret, for long the mainstay of the Rouge Homme brand. Originally made entirely from Shiraz, it is now a 50/50 blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon matured in French and American oak barrels for an average period of 12 months. Up to 5 yearsS 1994U King Island cheddarX 14/7/98` SH CSa Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia Rouge Homme Shiraz Cabernet Rouge Homme $16-20 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Rouge HommeP The influence of Lindemans chief winemaker Phillip John has been instrumental in the development of the style and quality of this wine, the only example of its kind from Coonawarra to have impressed. At the price it is a bargain, although one cannot help but be impressed at the number of trophies and gold medals won by the 1993 and 1994 vintages at national wine shows. It is not that it is not a good wine clearly it is, but it is a fraction on the hard side. The full gamut of winemaking Bqtechniques has been used including whole-bunch fermentation and subsequent barrel fermentation in new French oak. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Char-grilled salmon, quailX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Rouge Homme Pinot Noir Rouge Homme $11-15 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Miranda Rovalley EstateP 11.95 A complex blend which shows just how far Miranda/Rovalley are prepared to go in sourcing the wines. It is a blend of Hunter Valley (56%), Riverina (35%), with components from the Barossa Valley, King Valley, Mudgee and Cowra making up the balance. What is more, it is a varietal blend of over 90% Chardonnay, with a touch of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. The wine was cold fermented, given some oak maturation and partial malolactic fermentation. All this in a wine selling for $11.95. R Drink nowS 1993U Crumbed lamb s brainsX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Rovalley Ridge Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _1Miranda Rovalley Estate Rovalley Ridge Chardonnay Miranda Rovalley Estate $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Miranda Rovalley EstateP 16.95 Sourced entirely from a single vineyard in the upper Eden Valley and barrel-fermented in new American oak barriques, before being given seven months lees contact in the same barrels. The 92 was a winner of three gold and two silver medals at Australian wine shows, including gold medals at Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide, three of the toughest shows. The 94 vintage won a trophy and three gold medals at Australian wine shows. Short termS 1994U Roast turkeyX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Show Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _/Miranda Rovalley Estate Show Reserve Chardonnay Miranda Rovalley Estate $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Miranda Rovalley EstateP 18.95 A blend of 79% Shiraz and 21% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from two vineyards in the Eden Valley, and matured in new American oak barrels for 16 months prior to bottling. A wine which had phenomenal show success, winning three trophies, six gold medals and innumerable other show medals. Up to 10 yearsS 1991U Peking duckX 14/7/98` SH CSa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Show Reserve Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia _4Miranda Rovalley Estate Show Reserve Shiraz Cabernet Miranda Rovalley Estate $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 RymillP 13.95Q Made in a deliberately direct, unwooded-style, with the gently crisp, faintly herbaceous style one has come to expect from this variety grown on Coonawarra s terra rossa soils.R 1995U Seafood, shellfishX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Rymill Sauvignon Blanc Rymill $11-15 Coonawarra 14/7/98 RymillP During each vintage, a small quantity of the best fruit is selected for special oak maturation and eventual release under the Rymill label. For many years Rymill sold the grapes from the vineyard, and the label first appeared on a small quantity of experimental wine made under contract. It won instant show success, and persuaded Peter Rymill to enter commercial winemaking on an ever-increasing scale. This wine shows why. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Mushroom risottoX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Rymill Cabernet Sauvignon Rymill $21-25 Coonawarra 14/7/98 SandalfordP 13.95 The striking 1840 Collection label was introduced in 1993 emphasising that Sandalford was in fact founded in 1840, although its winemaking activities did not commence until this century. The Classic Dry White is a Margaret River estate-grown blend of unspecified varieties, but presumably drawing upon the estate plantings of sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc, semillon, verdelho and riesling. R Drink nowS 1996U West Australian crayfishX 14/7/98a Swan Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) 1840 Collection Classic Dry White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _,Sandalford 1840 Collection Classic Dry White Sandalford $11-15 Swan Valley 14/7/98 SandalfordP 16.95 Produced from 14.5 hectares of estate plantings; next to riesling (56 hectares) and cabernet sauvignon (25 hectares) verdelho is the most important grape in the Margaret River province. While predominantly cold-fermented in stainless steel, a portion is barrel-fermented in French-coopered American oak barriques. Top 100 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition, and the Ted Radke Trophy for Best Other White Varietal. R 3-5 yearsS 1996U Prosciutto and melonX 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Margaret River Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _"Sandalford Margaret River Verdelho Sandalford $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 SandalfordP 18.95 .A blend of Mount Barker and Margaret River grapes which have been barrel-fermented in high-quality oak to produce a wine of real style and substance, worthy of Bill Crappsley s skills as a winemaker. The 94 was very good, the 95 simply outstanding. Top 100 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition. R 3-4 yearsS 1995U MarronX 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Margaret River Mount Barker Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _1Sandalford Margaret River Mount Barker Chardonnay Sandalford $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Sand HillsP Received a bronze medal at the 1994 New South Wales Small Winemakers Wine Show, and is a sound wine, interesting for its unusual region of origin.R 2-3 yearsS 1996U Spiced sausageX 14/7/98` Other Wineries of NSWb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Sand Hills Shiraz Sand Hills Vineyard e under $10 r"Other New South Wales Wine Regions 14/7/98 ScarboroughP WOnly 500 cases of Pinot are produced from the 1 hectare of estate plantings, and are made simply to present some variety at cellar door. Ian Scarborough is a skilled winemaker, and cannot help but make an attractive red wine, even if it does not have a great deal of Pinot varietal character. As of 1996, the Pinot Noir had become non-vintage. R 2-3 yearsS 1990U RabbitX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Scarborough Pinot Noir Scarborough $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 SeaviewP bFirst made in 1992, with no release in 1993, returning with the 1994 and 1995 vintages. Sourced entirely from premium McLaren Vale vineyards, the wine spends a year in 100% new French oak an interesting departure from the normal pattern of American oak for big, rich South Australian Shiraz. Right from the first vintage, a wine of exceptional quality. 10-15 yearsS 1995U Fillet of kangarooX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Edwards & Chaffey Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _ Seaview Edwards & Chaffey Shiraz Seaview $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 SeaviewP The sister wine to the Edwards & Chaffey Shiraz of the same year, made from old, low-yielding McLaren Vale cabernet and matured in new French oak for 18 months. Won three trophies and three gold medals in 1994, and shows that anything Wynns or Penfolds can do, so can Seaview. The 94 was a trophy winner at the 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition and a gold medal winner at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show. 10-15 yearsS 1994U Leave it in the cellarX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Edwards & Chaffey Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _,Seaview Edwards & Chaffey Cabernet Sauvignon Seaview $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 SeaviewP 12.95 A very complex blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay sourced predominantly from Coonawarra, Padthaway and the Eden Valley in South Australia, but with small components from the New South Wales alps, Strathbogie Ranges of Victoria and Adelaide Hills. It spends two years on yeast lees before disgorgement. The 1994 vintage continued the gold medal winning tradition of the label at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show. 1994U OystersX 14/7/98` PN CHa McLaren Valeb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Pinot Chardonnay thode Champenoise X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _,Seaview Pinot Chardonnay M thode Champenoise Seaview $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 SeaviewP 12.95 rFirst made in 1991, and immediately caught the eye. It is made from 100% Chardonnay grown in the Adelaide Hills and Eden Valley, and spends 18 months on yeast lees before disgorgement. The 92 vintage was a trophy and gold medal winner at national wine shows, while the 93 was the runner-up in the sparkling wine class at the 1996 Sydney International Wine Competition. R Drink nowS 1994U Aperitif, sweeter seafood dishesX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Chardonnay thode Champenoise X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _&Seaview Chardonnay M thode Champenoise Seaview $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 SeppeltP Based upon the Seppelt Dorrien Vineyard in the Barossa Valley from which it takes its name, sometimes including small components of Coonawarra and Langhorne Creek, and a dab of Merlot here and there. A prolific trophy and gold medal show winner in every vintage between 1988 and 1992 inclusive. Two years maturation in French Nevers oak always gives the wine tremendous impact. Only released when the quality is considered sufficiently high. 10-15 yearsS 1992U"The richest possible red meat dishX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Dorrien Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _"Seppelt Dorrien Cabernet Sauvignon Seppelt $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 SeppeltP [Reintroduced as a vintage-dated wine in 1992, when the 1976 wine was released. Henceforth a 15-year-old vintage Para will be released each year, the 1977 being released in late 1993 and the 1979 in early 1995. It is made from shiraz and grenache grown in the Barossa Valley, and is a quite unique style. More information in the Classic Wine entry. 1979U Coffee and petits foursX 14/7/98` SH GRa Barossa Valleyb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortifiedf Para Liqueur Vintage Tawny Port X Fortified Z Australia _'Seppelt Para Liqueur Vintage Tawny Port Seppelt $26-50 Barossa Valley t late note 14/7/98 Sevenhill CellarsP ]Packaged in the distinctive ceramic glass bottle, and an unusual blend of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Verdelho, the latter one of the larger plantings on the Sevenhill Cellars vineyards. The 94 and 95 vintages of this wine have all been good, particularly the 95, which won a silver medal at the Canberra Australian National Wine Show. R Drink nowS 1996U Grilled spatchcockX 14/7/98` CB CH VEa Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) St Aloysius White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Sevenhill Cellars St Aloysius Sevenhill Cellars $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Sevenhill CellarsP As with all of the Sevenhill reds, made in an heroic style. It is taken from just under 10 hectares of estate vineyards, with mature and relatively low-yielding vines adding to the authority of the wine which needs patience.R 10+ yearsS Leave it in the cellarX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _$Sevenhill Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Sevenhill Cellars $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 SkillogaleeP A cellar-door special; it is extraordinary how much wine of this style is sold ex-cellar door tastings, and how little through the retail trade. As ever, it would seem people talk dry and drink sweet.R 2-3 yearsS 1993U Smoked trout mousseX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Late Picked Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia _ Skillogalee Late Picked Riesling Skillogalee $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Stanton & KilleenP 25QdA blend of all of the great years going back to the early 1960s, and worth every cent of its price. R Rich cakesX 14/7/98` Rutherglen 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Special Old Liqueur Muscat X Fortified Muscat Z Australia _,Stanton & Killeen Special Old Liqueur Muscat Stanton & Killeen Wines $21-25 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 St HallettP 11.95Q An unoaked blend of Barossa Valley Chenin Blanc, Semillon and Chardonnay, deliberately made in a medium dry white style, and intended to be drunk immediately on release.R 1996U SatayX 14/7/98` CB SE CHa Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Poacher s Blend White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia St Hallett Poacher s Blend St Hallett $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 St HallettP 11.95 Designed as a twin to the Poacher s Blend, and similarly designed for early consumption. Made from a blend of Grenache, Touriga, Shiraz and Mourvedre, all stalwarts of the Barossa Valley. A wine which precisely meets it purpose.R Drink nowS 1995U Tandoori chickenX 14/7/98a Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Gamekeeper s Reserve Shiraz Blends Z Australia St Hallett Gamekeeper s Reserve St Hallett $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 St HubertsP 94 vintage received the Trophy for Best Chardonnay at the 1994 Lilydale Show, open to all southern Victorian wines. Estate-grown and barrel-fermented, this is a superior wine in all respects, although it did no more than confirm the reputation of prior (and subsequent) vintages. The 95 is another very good wine, although inevitably not in the class of the 94, the former vintage being a great one, the latter very ordinary. Up to 5 years 1995U YabbiesX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia St Huberts Chardonnay St Huberts $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 St LeonardsP St Leonards has come up with some very interesting late harvest wines over the years, making a spectacular Late Harvest Chenin Blanc in the early 1980s. This is a wine of similar quality and style.R 3-4 yearsS 1994, 1995U Stuffed baked appleX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Late Harvest Semillon Sweet Sweet Z Australia _!St Leonards Late Harvest Semillon St Leonards $11-15 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Stone RidgeP A wine which is sometimes made from Malbec, and sometimes from a blend of Cabernet and Malbec, but which either way shows the typical jammy fruit characters of malbec with minimal oak influence.R Not certainS 1994U GoulashX 14/7/98` Granite Beltb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Malbec Cabernet Blends Z Australia Stone Ridge Cabernet Malbec Stone Ridge $11-15 Granite Belt 14/7/98 Stone RidgeP A wine which seems to reflect the varying conditions of vintage more than most, sometimes with pronounced pepper and spice characters, at other times with more sappy notes, and sometimes assuming the role of a Hunter Valley look-alike. R 3-4 yearsS 1994U Pan-fried vealX 14/7/98` Granite Beltb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Stone Ridge Shiraz Stone Ridge $16-20 Granite Belt 14/7/98 Sutherland ySutherland always makes big, rich wines, and in drought years such as 1991, big becomes bigger still. The white wines from this vintage were never destined to be long-lived, and this does not break the rules. However, vintage does play a role here as everywhere, and the 95, tasted at the 1995 Hunter Valley Wine Show, was far lighter in body, and was not ready to be bottled. R Drink nowS 1993U Pork with gingerX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Sutherland Chardonnay Sutherland $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 TamburlaineP Produced from 2 hectares of estate semillon, made without oak, and fleshed out with a hint of sugar. Notwithstanding bushfires, 94 produced many fine whites in the Hunter Valley, and this wine does the reputation of the vintage no harm. Still available January 1996. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U TripeX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Tamburlaine Semillon Tamburlaine $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 TamburlaineP 16QsGrown at Belford on soil said to contain limestone. Made without oak, and shows tremendous depth of fruit flavour. R Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Carpaccio of Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Tamburlaine Verdelho Tamburlaine $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 HansonP ,Draws upon the various estate plantings of Ian Hanson and is the first release of the three principal Bordeaux varieties. Made very much in the fragrant tobacco leaf/cedar mould of all of the Tarrahill wines; received a silver medal at the 1994 Victorian Wine Show. Sixty per cent Cabernet Sauvignon. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U PastramiX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Hanson Cabernets Hanson $11-15 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 TaylorsP NMade solely from the low-yielding Mendoza clone used throughout the substantial 90 hectares of estate plantings (with further plantings in progress). A portion of the wine was fermented in French oak, which has had a pronounced impact on the overall blend as from 1993. A formerly innocuous wine which is now very much on the improve. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U GuacamoleX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Taylors Chardonnay Taylors e under $10 Clare Valley 14/7/98 TaylorsP 7The 120 hectares of cabernet sauvignon attest to the fact that for at least half of its life Taylors was predominantly a red wine producer, indeed initially exclusively so. The wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and is matured in predominantly American oak, with increasing amounts of French oak being introduced. R 5-7 yearsS 1995U Mixed grillX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Taylors Cabernet Sauvignon Taylors $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Temple BruerP 11.75 While Temple Bruer has its winery and viticultural base in Langhorne Creek, it has not hesitated to go to the Eden Valley for the source of its Rieslings, which both in dry and sweet form have been impressive in recent years.R 3-5 yearsS 1992U Fish terrineX 14/7/98` Langhorne Creekb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Temple Bruer Riesling Temple Bruer $11-15 Langhorne Creek 14/7/98 Temple BruerP Made from riesling grapes which were 40% botrytis affected, and picked at just under 16 baum , with a little over 3 baum residual sugar, giving the wine Auslese sweetness. Temple Bruer has occasionally made much sweeter and more intense totally botrytis-affected Rieslings. This wine was followed in mid-1995 by a non-vintage blend (from 92 and 93) which was pleasant, but not in the same class. R Drink nowS iU(Excellent aperitif, fruit-based dessertsX 14/7/98` Langhorne Creekb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Botrytis Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia Temple Bruer Botrytis Riesling Temple Bruer $21-25 Langhorne Creek 14/7/98 Temple BruerP [A blend of 70% Shiraz and 30% Malbec from the 1.5 hectares of shiraz and half a hectare of malbec, both estate plantings. A traditional Langhorne Creek-blend which works very well. The wine is made in old-style open fermenters, and matured in American oak, but without that oak making more than a subliminal contribution, which is all to the good. R 4-5 yearsS 1991, 1992U Mediterranean-style dishesX 14/7/98` SH MAa Langhorne Creekb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Malbec Shiraz Blends Z Australia Temple Bruer Shiraz Malbec Temple Bruer $11-15 Langhorne Creek 14/7/98 GallantP eQuealy and McCarthy are firm believers in the virtues of Unwooded Chardonnay, but recognise the paramount necessity of fully ripe grapes which are largely free from botrytis. Made from selected contract-growers across the length and breadth of the Mornington Peninsula, the wine typically has sufficient alcohol to give it the requisite flesh and character. R 2-5 yearsS 1995U Sweet white-fleshed fishX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Gallant Unwooded Chardonnay c T'Gallant $16-20 Mornington Peninsula t late note 14/7/98 GallantP IAll of the T Gallant wines feature brilliant packaging and label designs, none more so than the reverse see-through Holystone label featuring its roses. The wine is a blend of whole-bunch pressed Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, very deliberately made in a European food-style, and quite different from anything else on the market. R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Asian cuisine of all kindsX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red M Holystone Pinot Noir Z Australia Gallant Holystone c T'Gallant $11-15 Mornington Peninsula t late note 14/7/98 Thistle HillP Produced from 3 hectares of low-yielding estate plantings, and remarkably consistent in style and quality over the years. Generously flavoured and constructed, it ages into a full-blown traditional Australian cross of regional and varietal character what we used to call White Burgundy. R 4-7 yearsS Veal cutletsX 14/7/98` Mudgeeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Thistle Hill Chardonnay Thistle Hill $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 Thistle HillP The 5 hectares of cabernet sauvignon amount to half the total estate plantings; this is the most important wine in the Thistle Hill stable, ageing gracefully into a gently earthy but always-rich regional style.R 4-7 yearsS 1990U English cheddarX 14/7/98` Mudgeeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Thistle Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Thistle Hill $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 oN Tim AdamsP Prior to the 1993 vintage Tim Adams acquired 2 hectares of 40-year-old grenache, which now produces The Fergus. It is made in a no-holds-barred style; the 1993 vintage achieved 14.5% alcohol. Whatever else, Grenache has many faces. R 3-4 yearsS 1994U Braised duckX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red The Fergus Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Tim Adams The Fergus Grenache c Tim Adams $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 pN Tim AdamsP As the abbreviated name suggests, in fact a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) and Cabernet Franc (20%). As with all of the Tim Adams reds, generously proportioned with fully ripened fruit.R 5-10 yearsS 1994U Beef casseroleX 14/7/98` CS CFa Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Tim Adams Cabernet c Tim Adams $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 KnappsteinP 13.20 Only made intermittently when vineyard conditions permit or dictate, five times in the last 15 years. Initially the wine started as an artificially inoculated, rack-matured wine, but the cost of this led to its cessation. All of the recent vintages have been outstanding. Up to 5 years, even moreS 1994U&Poached peaches with King Island creamX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Botrytised Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia Knappstein Botrytised Riesling Knappstein Wines $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 KnappsteinP 21.5Q Drawn in part from 10 hectares of estate cabernet sauvignon, but also incorporating one-third Adelaide Hills material. Typically a lighter style, but invested with a little more weight than usual in 1994.R 3-5 yearsS& 1994U Mild cheeseX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Knappstein Cabernet Sauvignon Knappstein Wines $21-25 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Tingle-WoodP Produced from 1.5 hectares of very low-yielding vines, and of the highest possible quality. Incredibly this wine was still available in January 1997 at a mere $12 a bottle.R Up to 10 yearsS 1991U Sashimi, fuller-flavoured fishX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Yellow Tingle Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _"Tingle-Wood Yellow Tingle Riesling Tingle-Wood $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Tingle-WoodP A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Shiraz deriving from 0.75 of a hectare of each variety. A very elegant style which ages marvellously well, and still available by mailing list in 1996.R 7 yearsS 1990, 1991U Roast lambX 14/7/98` CS SHa Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Red Tingle Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Tingle-Wood Red Tingle Shiraz Tingle-Wood $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 TollanaP _Made from heavily botrytised Coonawarra and Eden Valley material, usually predominantly from Coonawarra, and sometimes containing a little Gewurztraminer. A much-underrated wine outside of the show ring; it has won an awesome number of medals since the 1992 vintage in wine shows. The 96, tasted prior to release, promises to be one of the best yet. R Drink nowS 1994U Very sweet, rich dessertsX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Botrytis Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia Tollana Botrytis Riesling Tollana $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 TollanaP ^Another Tollana classic with a proud history. Made entirely from Eden Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, it is matured in new and one-year-old American and French oak for 15 months. Like the Riesling, it has been a prolific and consistent gold medal winner. The 95 fully deserved its gold medals at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show and the 1997 Adelaide Wine Show. R 5-7 yearsS! 1995U Braised lambX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Bin TR222 Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _$Tollana Cabernet Sauvignon Bin TR222 Tollana $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Trentham EstateP 10.95 Produced from 6 hectares of estate-grown grapes, which account for 20% of the total plantings of around 30 hectares. Skilfully made, using predominantly French oak. A silver medal winner at the 1994 Australian National Wine Show at Canberra.R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Avocado saladX 14/7/98` Murray Darling and Swan Hillb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Trentham Estate Chardonnay Trentham Estate e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 s RidgeP CFirst made in 1991, but really hit the jackpot with the 1994 vintage, which was outstanding right from the time it left the fermenter, and went on to be the only gold medal winner for the Mornington Peninsula at the 1995 Royal Melbourne Wine Show, and for good measure was the equal highest-pointed Pinot Noir in that show. R 2-5 yearsS 1995U Smoked duckX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia s Ridge Pinot Noir Tuck's Ridge $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 yN Tyrrell 18.50 These individually named vineyard wines were first released in 1994, and both in that year and 1995 produced outstanding wines. The Brookdale Vineyard was planted by the Drayton family in 1967 on the yellow sandy clay loams of Pokolbin. The individual vineyard Brookdale label was first introduced in 1994, and will hopefully be a continuing one. One thousand cases were made of an outstanding wine. The Lost Block is in fact part of the famous HVD Vineyard, and was so named after the 1993 vinBjtage when the grapes were mistakenly allowed to ripen longer than normal, i.e. someone forgot about them. A decade or moreS 1996U CalamariX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 White yc)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Brookdale/Lost Block Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _'Tyrrell s Brookdale/Lost Block Semillon c Tyrrell $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 zN Tyrrell 13.50 A wine which is as much a testament to the production skills of the Tyrrell s winemaking team as to the vast storehouse of accumulated knowledge in handling this variety. It is deliberately made in a richer, earlier-maturing style than Vat 47, and perhaps for this reason is often very nearly as well-treated in wine shows as a young wine, being a prolific medal winner. The message is, drink it, don t cellar it. For the record, 90% comes from the Hunter Valley and the Liverpool Plains, 10% fB rom South Australia. R Drink nowS 1996U Ginger porkX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Old Winery Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Tyrrell s Old Winery Chardonnay c Tyrrell $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 {N Tyrrell First made in the appalling vintage of 1971, sharing with the Craigmoor wine of the same year the honour of being the first Chardonnay labelled as such and sold this century. Has since unequivocally stamped itself as one of the great marques, with recent vintages going from strength to strength, the 95 winning the Bert Bear Trophy for Best One Year Old White Wine at the 1996 Royal Sydney Wine Show, and topping its class in the same show in 1997. The 97 followed in the footsteps of the 6 wine, winning the very significant Bert Bear Memorial Trophy for Best Current Vintage White Wine at the 1998 Royal Sydney Wine Show. 5-15 yearsSD 1995U Fresh, slow-cooked salmonX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Vat 47 Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Tyrrell s Vat 47 Chardonnay c Tyrrell $26-50 Lower Hunter Valley t late note 14/7/98 |N Tyrrell 17.50 nFirst released in 1962, and has been the flagship of the Tyrrell s Shiraz production since that time. Based on the two old blocks of vineyard known as the four and eight-acre blocks on the righthand side of the winery driveway . A fruit-driven style, but in recent years the addition of little new French oak has added both to the complexity and appeal of the wine. 10-15 yearsS& 1995U VenisonX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Vat 9 Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Tyrrell s Vat 9 Shiraz c Tyrrell $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley t late note 14/7/98 }N Tyrrell 13.50 Sourced entirely from Hunter Valley Shiraz, and made in the traditional fashion in the old, wax-lined concrete vats at Tyrrell s, hand-plunged, then matured in large oak casks for 12 months before being given a brief period in one and two-year-old French oak barriques prior to bottling. Always a complex wine; a regular gold medal winner; the 1991 was, of course, an outstanding vintage. R 5-8 yearsS 1993U Smoked cheeseX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Old Winery Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Tyrrell s Old Winery Shiraz c Tyrrell $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 WaningaP Produced from what are now relatively old estate vineyards, first planted in 1974. In mainstream Clare-style, except that the 93 was late-picked and made fairly sweet, no doubt useful at cellar door. Made by Jeffrey Grosset.R 4-6 yearsS 1995U AsparagusX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Skilly Hills Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Waninga Skilly Hills Riesling Waninga $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 WaningaP Produced from mature, low-yielding vines which are encouraged to fully ripen the fruit. Again, shows the philosophy of contract-winemaker Tim Adams.R 5 yearsS 1994U Rump steakX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Waninga Cabernet Sauvignon Waninga $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 WarrenmangP Produced from 3 hectares of very low-yielding estate plantings, vines which have tended to produce wines of awesome power and extract, needing a light touch in the winery. Recent releases have headed in the right direction.R 10 yearsS 1994U Strong cheese or red meat 14/7/98` Pyreneesb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Estate Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Warrenmang Estate Shiraz Warrenmang Vineyard $21-25 Pyrenees 14/7/98 WarrenmangP A deliberately lighter style, predominantly Cabernet and Shiraz, and with a little Dolcetto adding sweet fruit complexity. A direct style, made with minimum oak intrusion, which works very well. R 2-3 yearsS 1993U Osso bucoX 14/7/98` CS SH DOa Pyreneesb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Bazzani Cabernet Shiraz Dolcetto Cabernet Blends Z Australia _+Warrenmang Bazzani Cabernet Shiraz Dolcetto Warrenmang Vineyard $11-15 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Water WheelP Produced predominantly from new plantings of cabernet sauvignon established when the Cumming family took over control of Water Wheel. Right from the outset these plantings produced wines with intense fruit flavours. A small percentage (15%) of Cabernet Franc and Merlot adds complexity. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Mild Indian curryX 14/7/98` Bendigob 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Water Wheel Cabernet Sauvignon Water Wheel $11-15 Bendigo 14/7/98 WignallsP A relatively new arrival on the scene for Wignalls, which does show an extra degree of weight and concentration. However, like the standard Pinot Noir, it does tend to develop relatively quickly, with cellaring a doubtful proposition. R Short termS 1993U GuineafowlX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Wignalls Reserve Pinot Noir Wignalls Wines $26-50 Great Southern 14/7/98 WildwoodP ]The 92 is a thoroughly impressive wine, and the best made yet at Wildwood. 1992 was an excellent ripening season, important in the uncompromisingly cool climate of the Macedon region, even at this low altitude. The 93 was something of a let-down, showing some porty, overripe fruit characters, the 94 veering in the opposite direction altogether. 5 yearsS 1994U CannelloniX 14/7/98` MT CFa Sunburyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Merlot Cabernet Franc Cabernet Blends Z Australia Wildwood Merlot Cabernet Franc Wildwood $21-25 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 N WillespieP 19.50 EIn many ways, the flag-bearer for Willespie. The typical Margaret River herbaceous characters are usually accompanied by a riper gooseberry spectrum, particularly in outstanding vintages such as 1993 and 1995. Twenty per cent of the wine was briefly fermented in high toast American oak, but it barely registers in the wine. R 1-3 yearsS 1995U ShellfishX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Willespie Sauvignon Blanc c Willespie $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Willow BendP 19.50Q An extremely rich wine in a full-blown show style which develops quite quickly. Produced from fully ripened grapes, it spends ten months in German and French oak on yeast lees. R Drink nowS 1993U Pork chopsX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Willow Bend Chardonnay Willow Bend $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Willow BendP 19.50Q A blend of 35% Shiraz, 35% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc, all produced on the Semmler Barossa Valley Vineyard (1991 Vineyard of the Year) which spent two years in French and American oak hogsheads before being bottled in mid-1994. R 4-6 yearsS 1993U Beef casseroleX 14/7/98` SH MT CS CFa Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Merlot Cab Shiraz Blends Z Australia Willow Bend Shiraz Merlot Cab Willow Bend $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Willow CreekP ,Produced from 4.5 hectares of estate plantings, and technically well made. Has been produced in both oaked and unoaked versions, the latter working better. Made in the newly fashionable unwooded-style from the pick of estate-grown grapes; much of the Willow Creek production is sold to other makers. R Drink nowS 1996U ed scallopsX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Willow Creek Unwooded Chardonnay Willow Creek $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 WilsonP As I have written many times, chardonnay is an unusually difficult variety to grow and handle in the Clare Valley. This wine represents a major departure in style for the Wilson Vineyard; after a gap in 1993 when no wine was made, John Wilson has moved from barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation and lees contact to a much more direct, fruity-style which receives only limited exposure to oak and is early-bottled without malolactic fermentation. R 1-3 yearsS 1996U CrabX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Wilson Chardonnay Wilson Vineyard $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Wilton EstateP 17.95 =The 1992 vintage is a magnificent wine which has swept all before it in the wine shows, being rated above the De Bortoli Noble One on many occasions. It has accumulated a De Bortoli-like string of trophies and gold medals, leaving no doubt that Griffith is clearly the best region in Australia for this style of wine. Now-3 yearsS 1992U me br 14/7/98` SEa Riverina b 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Botrytis Semillon Sweet Sweet Z Australia Wilton Estate Botrytis Semillon Wilton Estate $16-20 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 Wirra WirraP Named after a one-tonne bell which used to ring at St Ignatius Church, Norwood; a Trott whimsy for The Angelus is only made in ring the bell vintages four in total up to 1992, including the 91 which received national acclaim as the top wine at the 1992 Sydney International Wine Competition. The precise source varies from year to year; the 95 is 65% McLaren Vale and 35% Coonawarra material. It spends 20 months in French oak. Up to 10 yearsS 1995U Fillet of beefX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red The Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _*Wirra Wirra The Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon Wirra Wirra $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Wolf BlassP qThis really is an amazing wine, basically consigned to the wine lists of Asian restaurants around Australia, but deserving far more recognition. It never misses, and in years like 1996 is just amazing. Made from a blend of Traminer and Riesling sourced from the Clare, Barossa and Eden valleys; only blind prejudice (against such blends) prevents it getting top rating. R Drink nowS 1996U Asian cuisineX 14/7/98` TR RIa Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Traminer Riesling White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Wolf Blass Traminer Riesling Wolf Blass $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 N WoodstockP Produced from a little over 6.5 hectares of estate plantings. The vines are old, and the fruit concentration substantial. Like the Shiraz, has been incredibly consistent over the years, and represents great value. The Stocks is the premium (and higher-priced) release. Up to 10 yearsS 1995U Game pieX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Woodstock Cabernet Sauvignon c Woodstock $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 N WoodstockP Made from botrytis-affected chenin blanc and riesling grapes, sometimes with lesser amounts of semillon and/or frontignan. Part of the fermentation is on skins (unusual) and the wine is given brief oak maturation.R 2-4 yearsS 1995U me br 14/7/98` CB RIa McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Botrytis Sweet White (375 ml) Sweet Sweet Z Australia _'Woodstock Botrytis Sweet White (375 ml) c Woodstock $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Wynns Coonawarra EstateP 9A blend of Cabernet and Shiraz, with a little Merlot added since the end of the 1980s. It is aged in a mixture of new and used American and French barrels for 15 months, and the aim is to produce a more elegant and slightly lighter style of red wine than that offered by the other red wines under the Wynns label. Now-3 yearsS 1993U Yearling beefX 14/7/98` CS SHa Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _.Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Wynns Coonawarra Estate $11-15 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 Wynns Coonawarra EstateP First made in 1982, and only vintaged in the best years, and then from the finest material available. It is matured in new French and American oak hogsheads for 12 15 months, and is a wine of enormous concentration and power. Vertical tastings over the past few years have shown that at somewhere around seven years of age the wine typically undergoes a remarkable transformation, opening up almost overnight. We are still to see how long the ensuing plateau will last, for none of the wines baB5ck to 1982 have started to decline. Not made in 1995. 15-25 yearsS! 1993U Leave it in the cellarX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _7Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon Wynns Coonawarra Estate Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 YalumbaP An interesting, unwooded varietal blend which, when first introduced, incorporated Viognier, but is now made from Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Marsanne. It has also been mirrored by an up-market version at twice the price the strikingly labelled Antipodean. The gold medal awarded to 94 Christobels at the 1994 Brisbane Wine Show suggested that Christobels might be the better value. The tables were comprehensively turned in 1995, with the Christobels rather bitter, the Antipodean far betB R Drink nowS 1996U Seafood saladX 14/7/98` SE SB MRa Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Christobels Dry White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Yalumba Christobels Dry White Yalumba e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 YalumbaP Sits underneath the Show Reserve Chardonnay; both are very well priced, but as with the Christobels/Antipodean contrast, one has to say that the Family Reserve offers the best value for money. The wine has often shown rather a lot of oak, but the 93 seems to have got the balance right. R 2-4 yearsS 1993U CalamariX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Family Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Yalumba Family Reserve Chardonnay Yalumba $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 YellowglenP 6A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay sourced from cool regions across southeastern Australia, but predominantly Coonawarra, Eden Valley, Yarra Valley and Ballarat. It first hit the headlines with the 90 vintage, which was truly delicious, and the 92 was very much in the same mould, the 94 slightly less so. R Drink nowS OystersX 14/7/98` PN CHa Ballaratb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Vintage Pinot Chardonnay X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _(Yellowglen Vintage Pinot Chardonnay Brut Yellowglen $11-15 Bendigo 14/7/98 YellowglenP _It would seem that Cuv e Victoria is regarded by Yellowglen as a proprietary brand name which no longer has any geographical base or meaning. For the 92 is a blend of 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir sourced not from Victoria, but from the Adelaide Hills and Eden Valley or so the literature says. Whatever, it is usually a totally delicious wine. 1993U ShellfishX 14/7/98` PN CHa Ballaratb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Vintage Cuv e Victoria X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _!Yellowglen Vintage Cuv e Victoria Yellowglen $21-25 Bendigo 14/7/98 YellowglenP First released in 1994 with a package blatantly copied from the Sonoma Valley s Chateau Jordan s J. Equally interesting or controversial is the base wine, an assemblage of 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir from the 1990 and 1991 vintages, with part matured in French oak barriques before tiraging and three years lees maturation. The grapes were sourced from Coonawarra, Yarra Valley, Eden Valley and Ballarat. For the 1996 release the base has changed, and is now utilising wines from the 92,B/ 93 and 94 vintages with Chardonnay dominant. R Drink nowS AperitifX 14/7/98` CH PNa Ballaratb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Yellowglen Y Yellowglen $16-20 Bendigo 14/7/98 Stumpy GullyP The second vintage of Marsanne from Stumpy Gully, and an excellent rendition of the variety. Beautifully made, with 30% barrel-fermented, although this does not really show in the finished wine, which is fruit-driven.R 3+ yearsS 1996U Spiced Asian seafoodX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Marsanne White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Stumpy Gully Marsanne Stumpy Gully $11-15 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Stumpy GullyP 18Q}The first Merlot from Stumpy Gully, and an absolutely delicious wine, which set new standards for Mornington Peninsula reds. R 1-3 yearsS 1993U Peking duckX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Stumpy Gully Merlot Stumpy Gully $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Aquila Estate 17.5Q The first release from Aquila Estate, produced in very limited quantities, and launched in October 1993. Barrel-fermented in French oak, and certainly shows the handling.R 1-2 yearsS 1994U ScampiX 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Aquila Estate Chardonnay Aquila Estate $16-20 South-west Coastal Plain 14/7/98 Aquila EstateP 17.95Q Made from Margaret River cabernet sauvignon, and a silver medal winner at the 1994 Mount Barker Wine Show. An unusual wine, with strong oak impact from French oak barriques.R 2-4 yearsS 1993U Spiced beefX 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _ Aquila Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Aquila Estate $16-20 South-west Coastal Plain 14/7/98 Arthurs CreekP 23.65 4Produced from 1.5 hectares of estate plantings. The two initial releases were 1988 and 1990, which came on to the market in late 1993. As with the Cabernet Sauvignon, winemaking has been done at Mitchelton since 1992 and the quality and consistency of the vintages since that time have been wholly admirable. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Veal fricasseeX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Arthurs Creek Chardonnay Arthurs Creek Estate $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 N BremertonP 13.5Q A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Shiraz and 12% Merlot which has been matured in predominantly new American oak. A wine which shows Langhorne Creek at its best.R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Devilled kidneysX 14/7/98` CS SHa Langhorne Creekb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Bremerton Blend Cabernet Blends Z Australia Bremerton Bremerton Blend Bremerton Wines $11-15 Langhorne Creek 14/7/98 N BremertonP 28QXOne of the two flag-bearers for Bremerton Lodge, the other being the Cabernet Sauvignon.R 5 yearsS 1994U Soft ripe cheeseX 14/7/98` Langhorne Creekb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Old Adam Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Bremerton Old Adam Shiraz Bremerton Wines $26-50 Langhorne Creek 14/7/98 Carabooda EstateP 12.50 `Principally made from 1 hectare of estate plantings. When I read Terry Ord s remark, I believe too much emphasis has been placed on making wines to a formula , I cringed, for it almost invariably means I am going to taste something that bears not even a passing resemblance to wine. That is certainly not the case with the 93 Carabooda Estate Shiraz. R 3-5 yearsS 1993U Braised oxtailX 14/7/98` Swan Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Carabooda Estate Shiraz Carabooda Estate $11-15 South-west Coastal Plain 14/7/98 Carbunup EstateP Made in an unwooded style, and of consistent quality. The 1993 vintage won a silver medal at the Mount Barker Wine Show (the first show entry for Carbunup Estate) and the 1994 won a bronze medal at the 1994 Mount Barker Wine Show.R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Scallop terrineX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Vasse River Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Carbunup Estate Vasse River Chardonnay Carbunup Estate $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 Charley BrothersP Produced from 2.2 hectares of estate plantings. The style is not dissimilar to that of the Hunter Valley, reflecting the warm growing conditions, and is relatively fast-maturing.R 1-3 yearsS 1996U Moreton Bay bugsX 14/7/98` Hastings Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Charley Brothers Chardonnay Charley Brothers $11-15 Hastings Valley 14/7/98 Charley BrothersP 'With the high humidity and high rainfall of the region, viticulture (and winemaking) will always pose challenges particularly in years such as 1992. But in years such as 1991 and 1993, very pleasant wines can be made, as this Shiraz demonstrates. It comes from 2 hectares of estate plantings. R 3-4 yearsS 1993U Firm cheddarX 14/7/98` Hastings Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Charley Brothers Shiraz Charley Brothers $11-15 Hastings Valley 14/7/98 Charley BrothersP A blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot, made from the first crop of the estate plantings. No longer available, but interesting because it indicates just what can be achieved if the vintage conditions are right. R 4-6 yearsS 1991U Chinese duck with mushroomsX 14/7/98` CS MTa Hastings Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _ Charley Brothers Cabernet Merlot Charley Brothers $11-15 Hastings Valley 14/7/98 Coolangatta EstateP 13.90 The Scott Henry trellis system used at Shoalhaven is ideal for high vigour vineyards, particularly where (as in the case of Shoalhaven) the risk of summer rainfall is high. The canopy is split vertically, allowing sunlight and wind penetration, optimising air movement and reducing disease. For all that, the tempering effect of the nearby Shoalhaven River delays maturity, for vintage typically does not get under way until mid-March. R 1-2 yearsS 1993U WhitebaitX 14/7/98` SE SBa Shoalhavenb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _+Coolangatta Estate Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Coolangatta Estate $11-15 South Coast Zone 14/7/98 EldredgeP Like the Eldredge Riesling, a full-bodied, early-maturing style made with the cellar door in mind by contract-winemaker Tim Adams. R Drink nowS 1996U Quiche LorraineX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _!Eldredge Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Eldredge $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 EldredgeP I do not know the derivation of the New Age name, but the style is certainly that, incorporating as it does American oak with the rich grenache fruit.R 1-3 yearsS 1996U Stir-fried beefX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red New Age Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Eldredge New Age Grenache Eldredge $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Hotham ValleyP 14.99 I thought the 94 was one of the outstanding 1994 white wines at the Mount Barker Wine Show, although it is fair to say that my fellow judges did not altogether share my enthusiasm, the wine ultimately being given a strong bronze medal. It was not a flash in the pan; the 1993 vintage was judged the Outstanding White Wine from the Perth Hills Region at the Annual State SGIO Wine Competition. The 95 once again performed strongly at the 1995 Mount Barker Wine Show. Up to 5 yearsS 1996U Salads, cold meatsX 14/7/98` Other Wineries of WAb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Hotham Valley Semillon Hotham Valley Estate $11-15 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Hotham ValleyP 12.99 An unspecified blend of what I take to be Chenin Blanc, Riesling and possibly a little Semillon and Chardonnay which, like the Semillon, was also a bronze medal winner at the 1994 Mount Barker Wine Show. Once again, I was rather more generous in my points. R 1-2 yearsS 1996U Pasta with creamy sauceX 14/7/98a Other Wineries of WAb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Classic Dry White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Hotham Valley Classic Dry White Hotham Valley Estate $11-15 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Hotham ValleyP 12.99 ,Yet another success at the 1994 Mount Barker Wine Show, on this occasion topping the small class of Chenin Blancs, but in so doing, besting both Moondah Brook and Houghton. Here the boot was on the other foot, with my fellow judges liking it rather more than I; it no doubt deserved its silver medal. R Drink nowS 1996U PorkX 14/7/98` Other Wineries of WAb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chenin Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Hotham Valley Chenin Blanc Hotham Valley Estate $11-15 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Hotham ValleyP 16.99 James Pennington has learnt his craft at an extraordinarily impressive rate, no doubt assisted by the consultancy of Gary Baldwin. While I find the Chardonnay a little oaky, others will in all probability like it for precisely this reason; it was one of a quartet of medal-winning wines at the 1994 Mount Barker Wine Show, winning a silver medal, second-highest pointed wine in its large class. R 1-3 yearsS 1995U Chicken with cashew nutsX 14/7/98` Other Wineries of WAb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Hotham Valley Chardonnay Hotham Valley Estate $16-20 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Hugh HamiltonP 15.50 (Made in the modern unwooded style, and cool fermented. When tasted at the Sydney International Wine Competition in September 1994, shortly after it had been bottled, it still showed a lot of fermentation esters, but there was marvellous fruit underneath, and the wine may well improve over 1995. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Smoked salmonX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Hugh Hamilton Chardonnay Hugh Hamilton $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Lauren BrookP Where Stephen Bullied learned his winemaking I do not know, but wherever, he has learned it well, for this is a very well-made wine which shows Blackwood Valley Riesling to best effect.R 3-5 yearsS 1996U Chinese stir-fryX 14/7/98` Other Wineries of WAb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Lauren Brook Riesling Lauren Brook $11-15 r Pemberton 14/7/98 Lennards Brook EstateP uOne of two very good wines made by Lennards Brook entered in the 1994 Mount Barker Wine Show, the other being its 1994 Fine White. The verdelho received the ultimate accolade from Swan Valley veteran John Kosovich, who knows more about the variety than most, and received a gold medal competing against both Houghton and Moondah Brook, to which it sells much of its grapes. Up to 5 yearsS 1994U Pan-fried vealX 14/7/98` 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Lennards Brook Estate Verdelho Lennards Brook Estate $11-15 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Harewood EstateP The first wine to be made for Harewood Estate in anything approaching a commercial quantity, although smaller amounts of various wines have been made in prior years for the library/museum. Produced from 2.5 hectares of estate plantings.R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Hare, of courseX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Harewood Estate Pinot Noir Harewood Estate $26-50 Great Southern 14/7/98 N MountfordP The wine is made under contract at Frankland Estate, as the newly constructed Mountford winery is only set up for red winemaking. It incorporates 15% Semillon from the Margaret River and is a particularly pleasant well-made wine.R 1-2 yearsS 1994U Deep-fried calamariX 14/7/98` SB SEa Pembertonb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _"Mountford Sauvignon Blanc Semillon c Mountford $11-15 r Pemberton 14/7/98 N MountfordP 15.50Q As from 1994 the red wines have been made at Mountford by Andrew Mountford, the 92 having been made at Chateau Xanadu. The prime movers in opening up the Pemberton region were and are convinced that it can make great Pinot Noir. Time will tell.R 2-3 yearsS 1993U Spiced chickenX 14/7/98` PNa Pembertonb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Mountford Pinot Noir c Mountford $11-15 r Pemberton 14/7/98 Abbey ValeP MOne hundred per cent semillon picked from Abbey Vale s Wildwood Road vineyard, cold fermented in stainless steel and bottled early (without oak) in traditional fashion. Right from the outset, Abbey Vale has always produced high-quality Semillon, and the 96 is one of the best yet. Top 100 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition. R Drink nowS 1989U Mousseline of whitingX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Abbey Vale Semillon Abbey Vale $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 AlkoomiP TPredominantly made from estate-grown shiraz, with a significant percentage of cabernet sauvignon, and small amounts of merlot, malbec and cabernet franc. It is the shiraz which drives the wine; it is not surprising that each release of this wine sells out long before the next becomes available. The 93 is an outstanding wine at the price. R 2-3 yearsS 1993U Steak DianeX 14/7/98` SH CSa Great Southernb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Classic Red Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Alkoomi Classic Red Alkoomi $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Baldivis EstateP 14.95 &Baldivis releases both a wooded (in fact lightly oaked) and unwooded Chardonnay. Both won bronze medals at the 1994 Mount Barker Wine Show, both in turn showing light and basically overcropped fruit characters. There is no problem with the winemaking, and in fact the unwooded style works best. R Drink nowS 1995U Fish consomm 14/7/98` South West Coastb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _#Baldivis Estate Unwooded Chardonnay Baldivis Estate $11-15 South-west Coastal Plain 14/7/98 Broke EstateP Draws upon 8 hectares of estate vineyards, the management of which is under the direction of the high-profile viticultural consultant Dr Richard Smart. The quality of the fruit from both the red and white grape plantings has never been in doubt, although one wishes there had been a little less extravagant use of oak. The wines are emphatically a drink now proposition and do not age well. R Drink nowS 1995U Fish in black butter sauceX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Limited Edition Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _'Broke Estate Limited Edition Chardonnay Broke Estate $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Canobolas-SmithP While the major part of the estate plantings are cabernet sauvignon (2.2 hectares) there is a quarter of a hectare of merlot. One might have expected Murray Smith to have blended the two, but in 1992 he elected to keep the merlot separate, and it is perhaps not hard to see why. In other years Murray Smith will blend the two grapes together. The wine, incidentally, is graced with one of the most evocative and striking labels imaginable. R 2-3 yearsS 1992U Veal kidneysX 14/7/98` Orangeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Canobolas-Smith Merlot Canobolas-Smith $16-20 Orange 14/7/98 Cape ClairaultP KMade from a little over half a hectare of estate plantings. Riesling has always been a temperamental variety in the Margaret River, producing a range of unpredictable flavours. This wine, however, seems to have the structure and capacity to develop more in the style of Mount Barker Rieslings than typical Margaret River Rieslings. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U AvocadoX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Cape Clairault Riesling Cape Clairault $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 Charles MeltonP 13.90 VIt should come as no surprise that, having recognised the virtues of dry-grown, low-yielding Barossa grenache over five years ago when he introduced Nine Popes, that Charlie Melton should now be making a straight varietal. The style of the wine is not unlike Nine Popes, with slightly more fresh red berry fruit flavours. Very much la mode. Now-2 yearsS 1994U High-class hamburgerX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Charles Melton Grenache Charles Melton $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 ChatsfieldP While it may not be the most trendy variety, this wine shows exemplary varietal character in a light mould. It has not been propped up with residual sugar, and ages remarkably well, as the 1990 vintage showed at the 1994 Mount Barker Wine Show. R Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Asian cuisineX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Gewurztraminer White Traminer Z Australia Chatsfield Gewurztraminer Chatsfield $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 ChatsfieldP 14QFA classic Riesling which, like the best of its region, ages superbly. R 5-8 yearsS! 1996U Mild Thai soupX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Mount Barker Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _ Chatsfield Mount Barker Riesling Chatsfield $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Clarendon HillsP Whether the much-touted comparisons with 92 Chateau Pichon-Laland and 61 Chateau Latour are or were justified is not terribly important. The fact is that since 1990, Clarendon Hills has come up with powerful wines of impressively consistent style, and which take no prisoners. 10-15 years 1993U Leave it aloneX 10/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _"Clarendon Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Clarendon Hills Winery McLaren Vale 10/7/98 HardysP 22.99 Made from very ripe, low-yielding McLaren Vale shiraz, fortified using a very particular brandy spirit made by Hardys. Just as with Portuguese Vintage Port, there is much debate about the relative input and importance of the base wine on the one hand and the fortifying spirit (and fortifying techniques) on the other. What is certain is that this is Australia s finest Vintage Port, the best vintages of which age superbly. Up to 30 years or moreS+ 1982U CoffeeX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortifiedf Vintage Port X Fortified Z Australia Hardys Vintage Port Hardys $21-25 McLaren Vale t late note 14/7/98 N LindemansP FLindemans has had a stop-start relationship with Riesling in Coonawarra, for a considerable period of time, consigning the wine to the anonymity of blend proprietary products. However, wines such as the extraordinary 1975 Nursery Rhine Riesling, still as fresh as a daisy, leave the fundamental merit of the wine in no doubt. 5+ yearsS 1995U Artichoke saladX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Coonawarra Vineyard Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _&Lindemans Coonawarra Vineyard Riesling Lindemans (Coonawarra) $11-15 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 N LindemansP ~Lindemans has had verdelho planted in its Padthaway vineyards right from the outset, but there have been only intermittent releases over the years. It is reasonable to expect that this wine will now be a permanent part of the range. It is barrel-fermented in new and one-year-old French oak hogsheads, and given two months oak maturation, strongly influencing the shape of the wine. R 1-2 yearsS 1994U Rich chicken or veal dishesX 14/7/98` Coonawarrab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) M Padthaway Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Lindemans Padthaway Verdelho Lindemans (Coonawarra) $11-15 r Padthaway 14/7/98 N LindemansP 12.7Q Lindemans first release of Sauvignon Blanc from Coonawarra, and forming part of the new Coonawarra Vineyard range. Made without oak in a modern, crisp style.R Drink nowS 1996U South Australian whitingX 14/7/98` Coonawarra 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Coonawarra Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _-Lindemans Coonawarra Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Lindemans (Coonawarra) $11-15 Coonawarra t late note 14/7/98 N LindemansP iAt its best (as it was in the 1960s and as it has the potential to be in the future) one of Australia s great classics. Labels, times and wine styles are all changing, making the link between present and past tenuous, hence separate entries for two strands of the wine. Since 1992, indeed, around 15% of Semillon has come from the Central Tablelands near Young. 5-30 yearsS0 1994U Strictly depends on the ageX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Hunter River Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Lindemans Hunter River Semillon Lindemans (Hunter Valley) $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley t late note 14/7/98 N LindemansP 33.50 XAs from 1986, a special selection has been made of the best Semillon, and held back for maturation and shows. The 1986 Bin 6855 was released as part of the Classic Release programme in 1994, and the multi-trophy winning 1987 Bin 7071 was released in late 1995. Produced principally from the School Block Vineyard adjacent to the Ben Ean winery. 10-15 yearsS 1987U Lobster, crabX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Hunter River Classic Release Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _/Lindemans Hunter River Classic Release Semillon Lindemans (Hunter Valley) $26-50 Lower Hunter Valley t late note 14/7/98 N LindemansP 17.95 From the long-established Lindemans-owned Steven Vineyard, which is a consistent producer of very typical but generously flavoured Shiraz (or Hermitage as it is still called on the label). The wine is matured in American oak hogsheads for 12 months, but typically shows little impact from the oak. Occasionally, as in 1994, the wine is released under a Reserve Bin number. For the record, this wine was matured in new American oak, and shows it. 7-12 yearsS 1994U Mild mature cheeseX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Steven N Hermitage Shiraz Z Australia Lindemans Steven Hermitage Lindemans (Hunter Valley) $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 McWilliam s Mount PleasantP Like the wines made by Colin Preece at Seppelt Great Western during the 1940s and 1950s, those made by Maurice O Shea between 1930 and 1956 rank among the greatest Australia has seen. The wines occasionally appear in auctions and at great wine dinners; at their best, they are jewels. 10/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Maurice O Shiraz Z Australia _)McWilliam s Mount Pleasant Maurice O McWilliam s Mount Pleasant Lower Hunter Valley 10/7/98 N MountadamP 'The precise source of the Cabernet Sauvignon is not stated, but does come from the general Eden Valley region. The Shiraz under this label has been consistently outstanding, and the 93 Cabernet is in much the same league. Matured for one year in used French oak, and demands time in the bottle. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Boned loin of lambX 14/7/98` Eden Valley 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red David Wynn Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _'Mountadam David Wynn Cabernet Sauvignon c Mountadam $11-15 Eden Valley 14/7/98 N AllanmereP Allanmere has no vineyards of its own, but has long-term grower contracts in the Hunter Valley, and has always been able to source chardonnay (and other grapes) of high quality. Geoff Broadfield s skill, together with the opulent use of oak, produces a wine of great opulence. Short term quick developingS 1994U Smoked chickenX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Durham Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Allanmere Durham Chardonnay c Allanmere $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 All SaintsP 19.50 An exceptionally good wine at the price, with an average blend age of eight years. The varietal definition is excellent, the blend a delightful amalgam of old and young material.R Not requiredS Try it as an aperitifX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Classic Release Tokay X Fortified Tokay Z Australia _ All Saints Classic Release Tokay All Saints $16-20 North East Victoria 14/7/98 All Saints [5wine glasses] Light golden-brown; rich and sweet malt and tea-leaf aromas with barely perceptible fortifying spirit. The palate is of medium to full weight, with malty/toffee/caramel/tea-leaf flavours, finishing with well-balanced acidity. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Light golden-brown; rich and sweet malt and tea-leaf aromas with barely perceptible fortifying spirit. The palate is of medium to full weight, with malty/toffee/caramel/tea-leaf flavours, finishing with well-balanced acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 All SaintsP 19.50 The blend has an average age of ten years, and, even if not showing the same outstanding varietal character as its sister wine, the Liqueur Tokay, is an impressive wine, attesting to the depth of the fortified stocks still held at All Saints. Won two trophies at the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition, including the Millers Trophy for runner-up to Best Wine of Show. With a price of $19.50 retail, it was placed in the top ten Best Value Wines. Not requiredS Coffee and chocolatesX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Classic Release Muscat X Fortified Muscat Z Australia _!All Saints Classic Release Muscat All Saints $16-20 North East Victoria 14/7/98 All Saints [4.5wine glasses] Medium tawny with just a hint of brown on the rim; soft, raisiny varietal muscat with fractionally earthy spirit. The palate is quite luscious, with good raisined fruit, starting sweet and finishing with cleansing acidity. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx NV <f"Bembo">Medium tawny with just a hint of brown on the rim; soft, raisiny varietal muscat with fractionally earthy spirit. The palate is quite luscious, with good raisined fruit, starting sweet and finishing with cleansing acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 All SaintsP 14.90 First made in the 1994 vintage and which immediately had show success, promptly winning two gold and two silver medals. Follow-on vintages (particularly the 96) have been of a similarly high quality.R Drink nowS 1996U Sweet, fruit-based tartsX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Late Harvest Semillon Sweet Sweet Z Australia _ All Saints Late Harvest Semillon All Saints $11-15 North East Victoria 14/7/98 All SaintsP fWhile some of the best stocks of All Saints were sold to other purchasers before Brown Brothers completed the acquisition of the entire property, certain of the very best material remained. This has in turn formed the base of this show blend, which has an average age of 20 years, and which has already accumulated a large number of trophies and gold medals. Not requiredS A meal in itselfX 14/7/98` Rutherglenb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Show Reserve Tokay X Fortified Tokay Z Australia All Saints Show Reserve Tokay All Saints North East Victoria 14/7/98 All Saints [5wine glasses] Deep golden-brown; wonderfully concentrated and rich caramel, toffee and molasses aromas lead on to a sensuously luscious and complex toffee, tea-leaf and butterscotch-flavoured palate. RATING: 96 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Deep golden-brown; wonderfully concentrated and rich caramel, toffee and molasses aromas lead on to a sensuously luscious and complex toffee, tea-leaf and butterscotch-flavoured palate. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">96 Amberley EstateP Made without oak, which is understandable, and bolstered by a touch of residual sugar, likewise understandable but less desirable, perhaps. For all that, a pleasant wine.R Drink nowS 1994U Stuffed mussels 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Amberley Estate Sauvignon Blanc Amberley Estate $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Amberley EstateP 17.50Q A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Both the 91 and 92 vintages show great concentration and backbone, the 93 a little less so, the 94 back in mainstream style.R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Rack of lambX 14/7/98` CS MT CFa Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Amberley Estate Cabernet Merlot Amberley Estate $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 ArrowfieldP The fruit source varies from year to year; in the past, a blend of Cowra and Hunter Valley grapes, but in 1995 reverting to a 100% Hunter Valley base. Between 2500 and 4200 cases are made of the wine.R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Moreton Bay bugsX 14/7/98` Upper Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Show Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"Arrowfield Show Reserve Chardonnay Arrowfield $21-25 Upper Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Bridgewater MillP 15.5Q Seemingly the focus of most of the attention of the Bridgewater Mill label these days; there is not a great deal of activity on other fronts. The wine is made without oak, and is drawn from grapes grown in Coonawarra, the Clare Valley and Currency Creek.R Drink nowS 1996U Smoked trout mousseX 14/7/98` Adelaide Hillsb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _ Bridgewater Mill Sauvignon Blanc Bridgewater Mill $11-15 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 YaldaraP 11.90 A blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Semillon. It is made in archetypal Lakewood-style with plenty of fruit and with significant sweetness from residual sugar. There is no question that this is what the legion of Lakewood consumers want, and it is what they will get. R Drink nowS 1995U PaellaX 14/7/98` SB SEa Barossa Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Lakewood Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _)Yaldara Lakewood Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Yaldara $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 YaldaraP 12.95 rOne would have been surprised if Lakewood had not capitalised on the sudden popularity of Grenache, and likewise had it not been able to source an old dry-grown vineyard. Mark Whitmore s vineyard is just that, producing dry-grown 14 baum Grenache, fermented in open fermenters under heading boards. The emphasis is on the ripe fruit, not oak, which is as it should be. R Drink nowS 1994U Stir-fried beefX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Lakewood Whitmore Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _"Yaldara Lakewood Whitmore Grenache Yaldara $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 YaldaraP Jim Irvine believes in making a statement with Merlot, and has certainly done so with this wine. You can buy a 6-litre double magnum for $480 if you wish. The Merlot achieved 15 baum , with the fruit said to be in perfect physiological condition. R 10+ yearsS Best left in the cellarX 14/7/98` 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M The Farms Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Yaldara The Farms Merlot Yaldara Wines $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 CraigleeP NOver a 20-year span I have been privileged to taste the 1872 Craiglee Shiraz on several occasions, the most recent at a dinner at Labassa House in Melbourne on 13 February 1994 organised by Andrew Wood and Darren Harris, noted Melbourne connoisseurs. It is the oldest Australian wine I have tasted. 10.1% alcohol; nine-year-old vines. 1872U&Loin of milk-fed lamb poached in stockX 10/7/98` Sunburyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Craiglee 1872 Shiraz Craiglee Macedon/Sunbury 10/7/98 Darling ParkP 15.50 Sourced from a total of 1 hectare of vineyards on two sites, which provided two components at markedly different ripeness levels, one very ripe, the other not so ripe. The result is a complex wine of good quality.R Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Ragout of sweetbreadsX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Darling Park Chardonnay Darling Park $11-15 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 David TraegerP Produced from three vineyards in the Nagambie area, with a total of 10 hectares under vine. The American oak handling has been sensibly restrained.R 4-6 yearsS 1994U Wild duckX 14/7/98` Goulburn Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia David Traeger Shiraz David Traeger $16-20 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 David TraegerP Sourced from vineyards in Nagambie and the King Valley. Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, with lesser amounts of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, matured in used French oak. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Lamb casseroleX 14/7/98` CS CF MTa Goulburn Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia David Traeger Cabernet David Traeger $16-20 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Donnelly RiverP (An elegant wine which has performed well in shows, the 1991 vintage being a Sheraton Award winner; the 1993 a bronze medal winner at the 1994 Mount Barker Wine Show (scoring strong silver medal points on my score sheet); while the 1994 vintage won a gold medal at the 1995 Mount Barker Wine Show. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U CalamariX 14/7/98` CHa Pembertonb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Donnelly River Chardonnay Donnelly River Wines $16-20 r Pemberton 14/7/98 HappsP Produced from 1.7 hectares of grapes on the Dunsborough Vineyard, and barrel-fermented, even though the oak influence is minimal, and the oak quite evidently had only a small (if any) percentage of new barrels.R 3-4 yearsS 1996U Scallop mousselineX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Happs Chardonnay Happs $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 HickinbothamP 19.95Q From the Hickinbotham estate plantings which include an unusual number of clones of chardonnay taken from the CSIRO collection at Merbein. Fruit-driven, and very much in the mainstream of Mornington Peninsula-style.R 3-4 yearsS 1994U Chinese prawns with cashew nutsX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Hickinbotham Chardonnay Hickinbotham $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Jane BrookP 17.80Q A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot grown in the Swan Valley. Conventionally fermented, albeit pressed before dryness, and matured in French oak hogsheads for 12 months.R 1-3 yearsS 1995U Milk-fed vealX 14/7/98` CS MTa Swan Districtb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Jane Brook Cabernet Merlot Jane Brook Estate $16-20 Swan Valley 14/7/98 Kings CreekP 1Predominantly sourced from the Kings Creek vineyards, but from time to time incorporating up to one-third purchased from an adjoining grower, and the wines are of greater than usual complexity and intensity. The wine is barrel-fermented, and matured in French oak for eight to nine months before bottling. R 3-4 yearsS 1994U Stir-fried chickenX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Kings Creek Chardonnay Kings Creek Vineyard $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Kings CreekP Estate-grown, and vinified using a range of Burgundian techniques including 20% whole bunches in the fermentation. Matured for ten months in French oak and, like the Chardonnay from Kings Creek, a wine of real complexity and style, with many medals to its credit. R Drink nowS Chinese duck with mushroomsX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Kings Creek Pinot Noir Kings Creek Vineyard $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 LillypillyP 11.95Q A modest enough wine, but then so is the price. Robert Fiumara has always known how to make white wines well, and any lack of varietal fruit is a reflection of the vineyards, not winery technique.R Drink nowS 1993U White-fleshed fishX 14/7/98` Riverinab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Lillypilly Chardonnay Lillypilly Estate $11-15 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 Lillypilly EstateP 12.50 Depending on the vintage, Lillypilly releases one or more of a Botrytised Traminer, a Botrytised Semillon and a Botrytised Riesling. The Riesling, in particular, is frequently released with some bottle age. R Short termS 1994U Poached peachesX 14/7/98` Riverinab 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Noble Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia _ Lillypilly Estate Noble Riesling Lillypilly Estate $11-15 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 LirralirraP Like its sister wine from the 94 vintage, made without the use of oak, and hence much improved. It comes from half a hectare of estate plantings. R 1-2 yearsS 1996U CrabX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Lirralirra Sauvignon Blanc Lirralirra Estate $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 LirralirraP A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot, 50% coming from the half a hectare of cabernet sauvignon at Lirralirra and 50% from Halcyon Daze vineyard.R 3-4 yearsS 1994U Roast lambX 14/7/98` CS CFa Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Yarra Valley N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia _!Lirralirra Yarra Valley Cabernets Lirralirra Estate $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Moss BrothersP A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, all estate-grown, which spent 20 months in small oak before bottling. A wine with plenty of character.R 3 yearsS 1994U Beef WellingtonX 14/7/98` CS MT CFa Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Moss Brothers Cabernet Merlot Moss Brothers $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 De BortoliP AFirst made in 1994, with immediate success. Against all the odds, won the Yeringberg Award and Victorian Wine Centre Trophy at the 1994 Lilydale Wine Show for Best White Wine in all Classes Other Than Chardonnay. Against all the odds, because young Semillon seldom shows to advantage against other more obvious varieties. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Fresh seafoodX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia De Bortoli Semillon De Bortoli (Victoria) $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 N InglewoodP 14.50Q Only 750 cases of this wine are made; it really is a Show Reserve wine in every respect. There is abundant barrel-ferment character evident in the wine, which has been well made, and which draws upon the best of 80 hectares of estate plantings.R Drink nowS 1994U Chinese porkX 14/7/98` Upper Hunter Valleyb 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Show Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Inglewood Show Reserve Chardonnay Inglewood Vineyards $11-15 Upper Hunter Valley 14/7/98 N InglewoodP An interesting wine which has a Padthaway component (or at least, did so in 1993). The 93 won several bronze medals, and the 94 is of similar style and quality. It may receive a brief flick of oak, but it is not evident in the wine, which happily survives on its fruit. R Drink nowS 1994U ed prawnsX 14/7/98` SE SBa Upper Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Two Rivers Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _-Inglewood Two Rivers Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Inglewood Vineyards e under $10 Upper Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Mornington EstateP Produced from a little over 3 hectares of estate-grown grapes, and made by Kevin McCarthy at T Gallant Winery. One of the outstanding 1994 chardonnays from the Mornington Peninsula; a barrel sample of the 95 seemed to show some green fruit characters when tasted in November 1995. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Garnished lobsterX 14/7/98` 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Mornington Estate Chardonnay Mornington Vineyards $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Paringa EstateP NProduced entirely from half a hectare of estate plantings, and 100% barrel-fermented in 100% new Vosges and Allier French oak barriques of the highest quality. Typically, 10% (and no more) is taken through malolactic fermentation, and the wine spends almost a year on yeast lees before bottling. The style is opulent and concentrated. R 3-6 years 1995U%Pan-fried veal with abalone mushroomsX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Paringa Estate Chardonnay Paringa Estate $21-25 Mornington Peninsula t late note 14/7/98 Paringa EstateP 28.95 The most strikingly individual style in the Paringa range, and arguably the most controversial, although its formidable show record, strewn with trophies and gold medals, would not suggest any great element of controversy. It is very pungent, with herb and spice aromas and flavours attesting to the very cool climate, yet to my palate it has the requisite vinosity and sweet fruit. R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Wild duck, gameX 14/7/98` Mornington Peninsulab 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Paringa Estate Pinot Noir Paringa Estate $26-50 Mornington Peninsula t late note 14/7/98 Salisbury EstateP aChambourcin is a French-bred hybrid hitherto mainly produced by Cassegrain in the Hastings Valley of northern New South Wales, where its resistance to the mildews comes in very handy. The Castle Crossing wine comes from 4 hectares of contracted shareholder vineyards in northwest Victoria. It shares the same vivid colour of the Cassegrain Chambourcins. R Drink nowS 1996U Pasta, eggplantX 14/7/98` Murray Darling and Swan Hillb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Castle Crossing Chambourcin Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _,Salisbury Estate Castle Crossing Chambourcin Salisbury Estate e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 Salisbury EstateP _Notwithstanding the inability to spell Mourvedre on the label or the supporting press material, this is an interesting wine of real quality and style. It is a blend of 50% Shiraz, 33% Malbec and 17% Mourvedre grown on the newly acquired Alambie Vineyard at New Residence near Loxton, planted by French owners 25 years ago hence the Rh ne varieties. R Drink nowS 1993, 1994U CassouletX 14/7/98` SH MA MOa Murray Darling and Swan Hillb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Castle Crossing Shiraz Malbec Mourvedre Shiraz Blends Z Australia _8Salisbury Estate Castle Crossing Shiraz Malbec Mourvedre Salisbury Estate e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 SaltramP 49.95Q One of Australia s best-known Tawny Ports made from Barossa Shiraz and Grenache, and judiciously using a blend of very old and much younger material. R After dinnerX 14/7/98` SH GRa Barossa Valleyb 4 Fortifiedc 7 Fortified Mr Pickwick Tawny Port X Fortified Z Australia Saltram Mr Pickwick Tawny Port Saltram $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Simon HackettP 12.99Q A traditional, reasonably full-bodied Barossa semillon style, using skin contact prior to pressing and then fermentation and three months maturation in American oak.R Drink nowS 1994U Deep-fried chickenX 14/7/98` Other Wineries of SAb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Simon Hackett Semillon Simon Hackett $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Simon HackettP 15.99Q One of two Chardonnays produced in 1994 by Simon Hackett, the other from Barossa Valley fruit. Both are fairly oaky styles, but the greater fruit intensity of the McLaren Vale version makes it the better of the two.R Drink nowS 1994U Sweet and sour porkX 14/7/98` Other Wineries of SA 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) McLaren Vale Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _%Simon Hackett McLaren Vale Chardonnay Simon Hackett $11-15 Mclaren Vale 14/7/98 Simon HackettP 15.99Q As with the white wines, ready to go. There is, indeed, almost a role reversal: whereas the white wines are relatively full-bodied, this is a pleasantly light-bodied McLaren Vale Cabernet.R Drink nowS 1992U Italian, Mediterranean cuisineX 14/7/98` Other Wineries of SAb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _-Simon Hackett McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Simon Hackett $11-15 Mclaren Vale 14/7/98 PalmersP 19.50 vThe barrel-fermented Chardonnay has been enormously successful for Palmers. Up until 1993 it was made by Dr Michael Peterkin, the 1991 vintage winning the Qantas Trophy for Best White Wine at the 1993 Mount Barker Wine Show. Eddie Price of Amberley Estate took over winemaking from 1994, and promptly came up with a gold medal-winning wine of absolutely outstanding quality. Up to 5 yearsS 1996U Ragout of sweetbreadsX 14/7/98` 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Palmers Chardonnay Palmers $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Pepper TreeP A Chardonnay-dominant blend made in traditional Hunter-style, rich and generous. It offers particularly good value for money, particularly when compared to the other Pepper Tree wines.R 1-2 yearsS 1993U Pan-fried pork filletX 14/7/98` Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Frost Hollow White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Pepper Tree Frost Hollow Pepper Tree e under $10 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 SalitageP With less than 1 hectare planted, the Sauvignon Blanc will not be a major part of the Salitage production. It is tank fermented, neither needing nor, indeed, being able to stand up to oak.R Drink nowS 1995U Asparagus saladX 14/7/98` SBa Pembertonb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Salitage Sauvignon Blanc Salitage $16-20 r Pemberton 14/7/98 SalitageP Pemberton has had various prophets, notably Dr John Gladstones and Gerard Potel, co-owner of the distinguished Burgundy producer Domaine de la Pousse d Or, not to mention Salitage s owner and founder John Horgan. The jury is emphatically out on the whole subject of Pemberton/Warren Valley and its suitability for Pinot Noir. Rapid ageing seems a common problem across many producers, regardless of soil type. R 3-4 yearsS 1995U Barbecued quailX 14/7/98` PNa Pembertonb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Salitage Pinot Noir Salitage $26-50 r Pemberton 14/7/98 ServentyP Produced from 1.5 hectares of estate shiraz in one of the coolest parts of the Margaret River. The style is very consistent: vibrantly, fragrantly spicy/peppery, intense but fairly light-bodied. The 92 vintage was awarded a gold medal at the 1993 Mount Barker Wine Show. R 1-2 years 1995U Asian beef dishesX 14/7/98` Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Serventy Shiraz Serventy $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 SmithbrookP The 1992 Pinot Noir paralleled the success of its sister wine, winning the trophy for Best Red Wine of Region at the November 1993 SGIO Wine Show Awards. The dry-grown pinot noir yields very small bunches of intensely coloured fruit, and should hold much promise for the variety. However, the 93 and 94 vintages (tasted January 1996) can only be described as totally disappointing, lacking both fruit intensity and varietal character. I am at a loss to understand why this should be so. R 1-2 yearsS 1994U Grilled quailX 14/7/98` PNa Pembertonb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Smithbrook Pinot Noir Smithbrook $26-50 r Pemberton 14/7/98 Stanley BrothersP 16.5Q Made from contract-grown Barossa Valley grapes, and treated in a thoroughly traditional fashion with quite pronounced use of American oak.R 5-7 yearsS 1993U Mild hard cheeseX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Thoroughbred Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _0Stanley Brothers Thoroughbred Cabernet Sauvignon Stanley Brothers $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 N Tim GrampP 14.5Q Introduced with the 1993 vintage, fermented in new American oak, and made in the typical full-blooded style which has made the Tim Gramp label so well known in such a short period of time. A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Shiraz.R Short term - up to 3 yearsS 1995U Richly sauced casserolesX 14/7/98` Clare Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Grenache Shiraz Shiraz Blends Z Australia Tim Gramp Grenache Shiraz c Tim Gramp $11-15 17.01 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Turkey FlatP Peter Schulz, who effectively runs Turkey Flat, is a vigneron, not a winemaker, and from the word go has had the Turkey Flat wines made by experts. The Grenache is made by Chris Ringland of Rockford and right from its first release has been a cult wine. It is not hard to see why. 3-10 yearsS 1995U Maggie Beer s game pieX 14/7/98` Barossa Valleyb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Grenache Noir Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Turkey Flat Grenache Noir Turkey Flat $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Wirilda CreekP While not a heavyweight by any means, it shows good varietal character. A limited quantity of Rare Shiraz (only available through cellar door) is also made.R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Italian cuisineX 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Wirilda Creek Shiraz Wirilda Creek $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Wirilda Creek [2.5wine glasses] 1995 Medium red-purple; earthy/leathery aromas are marked by considerable astringency, which carries through on to the palate. RATING: 70 @BM bold:XXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; earthy/leathery aromas are marked by considerable astringency, which carries through on to the palate.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">70 YanwirraP 12.50Q Produced from 0.35 of a hectare of Lyre Trellis-trained sauvignon blanc, with a percentage of estate-grown semillon added. A particularly rich wine for young vines, promising well for the future.R Drink nowS 1996U Pasta with cream sauceX 14/7/98` Great Southernb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Yanwirra Sauvignon Blanc Yanwirra $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Yarra Valley HillsP 18QuProduced from grapes grown at the Log Creek vineyard, made in a direct, unwooded style with threshold residual sugar.R Drink nowS 1996U SeafoodX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) M Log Creek Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _,Yarra Valley Hills Log Creek Sauvignon Blanc Yarra Valley Hills $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Yarra Valley HillsP Like the Chardonnay, made primarily from Kiah and Yallambee vineyards grapes. Usually light-bodied, but typically shows authentic varietal character and regional style. Quite where the 96 came from is not easy to determine.R 1-2 yearsS 1996U Chicken, quailX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red M Log Creek Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _'Yarra Valley Hills Log Creek Pinot Noir Yarra Valley Hills $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Yarra Valley HillsP From the Kiah and Yallambee vineyards. Not a heavyweight by any means, but does show authentic Yarra Valley cool-climate fruit flavours, and should mature quite well.R 3-4 yearsS 1996U Crab, lobsterX 14/7/98` Yarra Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Kiah Yallambee Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _,Yarra Valley Hills Kiah Yallambee Chardonnay Yarra Valley Hills $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 PertaringaP 19.95Q Pertaringa has some of the finest vineyards in the McLaren Vale/Adelaide foothills region, and is a renowned supplier of high-quality grapes to others. This wine shows why Pertaringa is held in such regard.R 4-10 yearsS 1991U Barbecued beef or lambX 1009Z 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Pertaringa Cabernet Sauvignon Pertaringa $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 PertaringaP Produced from the substantial Pertaringa vineyard established by Geoff Hardy and Ian Leask in the cool climate of the foothills of the South Adelaide Hills (behind McLaren Vale). Most of the grapes are sold to others; a small amount is kept and made for release as Pertaringa . The wine has been made in consistent style over the 1990s, with barrel fermentation in American oak making a major impact on the wine. R Drink nowS 1996U Honey-glazed ham, served warmX 1010Z 14/7/98` McLaren Valeb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Barrel Fermented Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _$Pertaringa Barrel Fermented Semillon Pertaringa $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 VirageP A cocktail blend of the kind so favoured in the Margaret River, but which seems to work well no matter what the particular ingredients and percentages may be.R Drink nowS 1995U Scallop terrineX 1012Z 14/7/98` SE SB CHa Margaret Riverb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon Chardonnay White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Virage Semillon Chardonnay Virage $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 VirageP One can see Bernard Abbott s years at Vasse Felix come through in this wine, which is elegant, crisp, and has been picked earlier rather than later. Whether one sees it as too green and herbal (or not) is a purely personal decision.R 3-6 yearsS 1993U Veal shanksX 1013Z 14/7/98` CS MTa Margaret Riverb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Virage Cabernet Merlot Virage $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 PetalumaP It was the desire to make a great sparkling wine which primarily drew Brian Croser to the Piccadilly Valley in the first instance. The climate is very cool, and ideally suited to the production of the fine base wine for Croser. First made in 1984 from 100% Chardonnay, but quickly moved to its current mix of approximately 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, although the mix between the two varies from 35% 65% (either side) according to the vintage. Up to 5 yearsS 1994U CaviarX 14/7/98` CH PNa Adelaide Hillsb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Croser X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Petaluma Croser Petaluma $26-50 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Seppelt Great WesternP Seppelt s flagship M thode Champenoise. Both the varietal composition and the regional base has varied substantially over the years; the 92 vintage base is a complex blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Tumbarumba in the Snowy Mountains of New South Wales, the Yarra Valley and Drumborg in Victoria, and Adelaide Hills in South Australia. Salinger is typically disgorged progressively during its 12-month release span. 1992U Aperitif, oysters, shellfishX 1015Z 14/7/98` PN CH PMa Grampiansb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Salinger thode Champenoise X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _2Seppelt Great Western Salinger M thode Champenoise Seppelt Great Western $21-25 Great Western 14/7/98 Seppelt Great WesternP &A wine made intermittently by Colin Preece (who was much given to blending) and which disappeared altogether between 1975 and 1983 inclusive. Since its reappearance, it has been sourced principally from a very old block of shiraz adjacent to the winery, which produces wine of tremendous style. 5-20 yearsS0 1992U Herbed rack of lambX 1016Z 14/7/98` SHa Grampiansb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf N Hermitage Shiraz Z Australia Seppelt Great Western Hermitage Seppelt Great Western $26-50 Great Western 14/7/98 [5wine glasses] 1993 Vivid purple-red; a wonderfully rich bouquet with berry and spice aromas intermingling with high quality French oak. The palate is elegantly structured for a young wine, with fine tannins and good acidity. A classic in the making. RATING: 94 @BM bold:XXXXX 1993 <f"Bembo">Vivid purple-red; a wonderfully rich bouquet with berry and spice aromas intermingling with high quality French oak. The palate is elegantly structured for a young wine, with fine tannins and good acidity. A classic in the making.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">94 Seppelt Great WesternP Ever so rarely, some of these wines may come up at auctions in Australia. If ever you see the distinctive white label with its Seppelt crest and simple black typing, and the wine in the bottle is not unduly ullaged, be prepared to offer a lot for the wine and still expect to get a bargain. These wines are some of the greatest made this century, standing alongside the masterpieces of Maurice O Shea, Roger Warren and Max Schubert. Australian parmesanX 1018Z 10/7/98` SHa Grampiansb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Colin Preece Dry Red Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _*Seppelt Great Western Colin Preece Dry Red Seppelt Great Western Great Western 10/7/98 Wynns Coonawarra EstateP Tragically, now included only as a Classic wine, for production has been suspended. Only limited quantities of the wine were made, and the demand so far exceeded supply that Wynns decided it was losing more on the swings than it was gaining on the roundabouts. A second reason for the discontinuation were doubts about the Ovens Valley label, as this is likely to become a recognised Geographical Area. The 1992 was the last vintage made. Up to 20 yearsS5 Beef Proven 1019Z 10/7/98` Coonawarrab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry redf Ovens Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _+Wynns Coonawarra Estate Ovens Valley Shiraz Wynns Coonawarra Estate North-eastern Victoria 10/7/98 Abbey ValeP A blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc which is deliberately left with a touch of residual sugar, and unashamedly aimed at cellar-door sales, relying on the oldest of wine truths that people talk dry, but drink sweet. While not the sort of wine that one normally expects to do well in wine shows, the 95 vintage only narrowly missed out on a gold medal at the 1995 Mount Barker Wine Show. Perhaps the most interesting feature of the wine is its ability to marry that touch of sweetness into aBK Semillon Sauvignon Blanc framework, for the marriage is often discordant. R 1-3 yearsS 1995U Pasta carbonaraX 2120Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Festival White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Abbey Vale Festival White Abbey Vale $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 [4wine glasses] 1995 Bright yellow-green; a tangy, citrussy fruit-spicy bouquet leads on to a fresh and lively palate with strongly varietal grassy/herbal flavours, and the sweetness evident but neither excessive nor discordant. RATING: 88 [wine glasses] RATING: @BM bold:XXXX 1995 <f"Bembo">Bright yellow-green; a tangy, citrussy fruit-spicy bouquet leads on to a fresh and lively palate with strongly varietal grassy/herbal flavours, and the sweetness evident but neither excessive nor discordant.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 @BM bold: <f"Bembo"><t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo"> Abbey ValeP This has been one of Abbey Vale s most successful wines in recent years, winning a gold medal at the 1996 SGIO Western Australian Winemakers Awards, a gold medal at the 1996 Adelaide Wine Show and a silver at the Cowra Wine Show. It also performed very well at the 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition, just missing out on the Top 100. Both in 1995 and 1996 produced an exceptionally full-flavoured wine. Up to 5 yearsS 1996U Honey-baked hamX 2121Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Verdelho White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Abbey Vale Dry Verdelho Abbey Vale $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Abbey ValeP 18QnThe first red wine from Abbey Vale to catch the eye, performing creditably at the 1995 Mount Barker Wine Show.R 3-5 yearsS 1993U BeefX 2122Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Abbey Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Abbey Vale $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 AlkoomiP 17.5Q Yet another wine to underline the quality of Great Southern Shiraz. As with all the Alkoomi wines, made exclusively from estate-grown grapes, of which there are 6 hectares. Not a powerhouse style by any means, but with clear varietal definition.R 3-6 yearsS 1995U Lamb filletX 2123Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Alkoomi Shiraz Alkoomi $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 N AllandaleP Long established as a stalwart in the Allandale range, with a consistent style developed over the years. Part of the primary fermentation is completed in new American oak, and the wine is matured in American oak, drawing (no doubt) on the example of Grange Hermitage and, closer to home, Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz. The oak always makes a major contribution to the flavour of the wine, and will appeal greatly to those who enjoy the sweet vanilla flavours which result. R 5-8 yearsS 1995U Smoked beefX 2125Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Matthew Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Allandale Matthew Shiraz c Allandale $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Ashbrook EstateP Produced from a little over 3 hectares of estate plantings. The wine is 50% fermented in new French oak barriques, and spends approximately six months maturing in wood before being bottled. Immaculate winemaking produces an immaculate wine. R 2-4 yearsS 1996U Grilled spatchcockX 2128Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay Ashbrook Estate $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 N BalgownieP A blend of grapes sourced from Victoria and Coonawarra, although one imagines the Victorian contribution is diverse. An interesting and very keenly priced wine.R Drink nowS 1995U Chinese porkX 2129Z 14/7/98a Bendigo Premier Cuv Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"Balgownie Premier Cuv e Chardonnay Balgownie Estate $21-25 Bendigo 14/7/98 BasedowP 9.95QtA star performer at the 1996 Sydney International Wine Competition, and a remarkably well-made wine given its price.R 2-5+ yearsS 1995U TortelliniX 2132Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Oscar s Traditional Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _$Basedow Oscar s Traditional Semillon Basedow e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 BethanyP 13.9Q 95 was a silver medal winner at the 1995 Barossa Wine Show, and shows far more subtle oak handling than preceding vintages, and in particular the 94. The 96 (bronze medal) seems a reversion to the more obviously oaked style.R 2-5 yearsS 1996U Caesar saladX 2134Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley M Wood Aged Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Bethany Wood Aged Semillon Bethany Wines $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 BethanyP 14.6Q Another string to the Bethany bow; like all of the wines under the label, very competently made. The wine is made from grapes grown on the Old Home Block and at the Trial Hill Vineyard, and is totally barrel-fermented in American oak.R Drink nowS 1996U Poached salmonX 2135Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Bethany Chardonnay Bethany Wines $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 BrokenwoodP cIn the Brokenwood tradition, a complex regional blend of Sauvignon Blanc from McLaren Vale (67%), Cowra (11%), King Valley (8%) and Semillon from McLaren Vale (14%). Lightly wooded with a touch of American oak, the wine has received high praise from the critics, and the 95 vintage came second in its class in the South Africa v Australia Wine Challenge. R Drink nowS 1996U!All seafood and white meat dishesX 2138Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Cricket Pitch Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _1Brokenwood Cricket Pitch Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Brokenwood $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 BrokenwoodP 18.50 1995 was the first release of this unwooded Chardonnay, made entirely from Hunter Valley grapes. One of those wines which elegantly demonstrates you have to have very good chardonnay fruit to be able to dispense with oak. R 1-2 yearsS 1996U Pasta with smoked salmonX 2139Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Cricket Pitch Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _,Brokenwood Cricket Pitch Unwooded Chardonnay Brokenwood $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 BrokenwoodP 18.50 bBrokenwood wanders the country in search of appropriate parcels of cabernet sauvignon with which to fashion this wine; in some years it has reached as far as Mount Barker in Western Australia for a component, while in other years it has deigned to use some grapes from the Hunter. In 1993 the wine came from Coonawarra, McLaren Vale and the Yarra Valley. R 4-8 yearsS 1993U Ragout of beefX 2140Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Brokenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Brokenwood $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Calais EstatesP Quite evidently, made from specially selected parcels of grapes from the 2 hectares of estate shiraz. The lesser-quality Shiraz is often blended with Pinot Noir.R 5-10 yearsS 1994U Beef spare ribsX 2144Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Calais Estates Reserve Shiraz Calais Estates $26-50 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 N CampbellsP 13.90Q First introduced in 1994 under this label, although there was a varietal release in 1993. All in all, something of a surprise packet.R Drink nowS 1994U Sweet and sour porkX 2145Z 14/7/98a Rutherglen Bobbie Burns Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Campbells Bobbie Burns Chardonnay c Campbells $11-15 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Castle RockP A wine which shows that the Cabernets of Castle Rock age as slowly as the Rieslings, and are particularly deceptive, for one would not imagine that relatively light-bodied and slightly herbal wines would develop in the way the 91 and 92 vintages have done. R 5-7 yearsS 1992U Veal chopsX 2148Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Castle Rock Cabernet Sauvignon Castle Rock Estate $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Chittering EstateP 14.95 A relatively new arrival for Chittering, which traditionally released a varietal Sauvignon Blanc. Also something of a departure in style, for it has far more fruit flavour and is much more in mainstream Australian white wine style than earlier vintages. A blend of 60% Semillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented cool and made without the use of oak. Fresh, crisp and direct, with good flavour and in conventional style. R 2-5 yearsS 1995U CalamariX 2151Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of WA Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _*Chittering Estate Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Chittering Estate $11-15 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Clarendon HillsP NAQRFirst made in 1994, and in the massive style for which Roman Bratasiuk is famous. R 10+ yearsS 1994U Beef and olives in red wineX 2152Z 10/7/98a McLaren Vale Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Clarendon Hills Cabernet Merlot Clarendon Hills Winery McLaren Vale 10/7/98 Coolangatta EstateP 13.90Q Named after the wife of Alexander Berry, one of the founders of Coolangatta Estate. Competent contract-winemaking at Tyrrell s has produced a light but pleasant wine.R Drink nowS 1994U Italian cuisineX 2154Z 14/7/98a Shoalhaven Elizabeth Berry Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _5Coolangatta Estate Elizabeth Berry Cabernet Sauvignon Coolangatta Estate $11-15 South Coast Zone 14/7/98 Crawford RiverP 19.4Q Newly introduced from the 93 vintage, and a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder Merlot and Cabernet Franc. A wine which will inevitably reflect vintage conditions, for this is a distinctly cool region for these varieties.R 5-7 yearsS 1993, 1994U Rib of vealX 2155Z 14/7/98a Far South West Victoria Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Crawford River Cabernet Merlot Crawford River Wines $16-20 Far South Western Victoria 14/7/98 N DalfarrasP 15.75 >Dalfarras offers two Chardonnays, one unoaked and released within 12 months of vintage; the other, barrel-fermented, and held back for a number of years prior to release. The contrast in style is absolute, the unoaked version being as one would expect fresh and fruity, the barrel-fermented tending to the baroque. Now-3 yearsS 1996U PastaX 2157Z 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Unoaked Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Dalfarras Unoaked Chardonnay c Dalfarras $11-15 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 N DalfarrasP 19.95Q While the style of the Dalfarras wines is intended by Alister Purbrick to be different from those of Chateau Tahbilk, he obviously likes his red wines to have plenty of muscle and character.R 7-12 years 1993U Marinated beefX 2158Z 14/7/98a Goulburn Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Dalfarras Cabernet Sauvignon c Dalfarras $16-20 Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 DennisP Has been made in very consistent style over the years, full, rich and peachy, and always with the evidence of some good-quality French oak. The core of the wine comes from 1.2 hectares of estate plantings.R Early-developing styleS 1996U Roast porkX 2160Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Dennis Chardonnay Dennis $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Devil s LairP Has always been made in an extremely rich, concentrated full-bodied Margaret River-style as befits its estate-grown origins. The generous use of oak goes well with the intense fruit. Low-yielding vineyards (never more than 2.5 tonnes per acre) and barrel fermentation and maturation in a mix of new and one-year-old Vosges and Alliers barriques from Dargaud & Jaegle and Francois Freres. Partial malolactic fermentation adds yet another level of complexity. Alcohol levels running up to 14.5 deB"grees complete a powerful picture. Not really neededS 1995U Rich white meatX 2161Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Devil s Lair Chardonnay Devil's Lair $26-50 Margaret River t late note 14/7/98 Dromana EstateP Produced from 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay grown on the Tolpuddle Vineyard in the Coal River region of Tasmania, partly owned by Garry Crittenden. Made at Domaine Chandon, and aged on yeast lees for 24 months before disgorgement.R Drink nowS AperitifX 2164Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Schinus Longest Lunch X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _)Dromana Estate Schinus Longest Lunch Brut Dromana Estate $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Elgee ParkP Produced in very limited quantities from the small estate plantings, part of the chardonnay now going to make the Cuv e Brut. In recent times released under the Family Reserve label, and as competently made by Tod Dexter as one would imagine.R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Tasmanian salmonX 2165Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Elgee Park Chardonnay Elgee Park $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Elgee ParkP 17.5Q|Like the Chardonnay, made in tiny quantities; again, as with the Chardonnay, part of the production goes to the Cuv e Brut. R Short termS 1995U QuailX 2166Z 20/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Elgee Park Pinot Noir Elgee Park $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 20/7/98 GilbertP Chardonnay, with a little under 2.5 hectares, accounts for the largest proportion of the Gilbert vineyard plantings, but invariably sells out first. It is made in a very disciplined style, without much new oak input, and with an unusual capacity to age.R Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Grilled fishX 2169Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Gilbert Chardonnay Gilbert $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Hanging RockP Produced from the 1.4 hectares of estate plantings of sauvignon blanc, and right from the word go has been a supremely impressive wine. The flavours are remarkably intense, reflecting the low yields of the relatively low vigour vineyard.R Drink nowS 1996U Highly flavoured seafood dishesX 2170Z 14/7/98a Macedon The Jim Jim Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _(Hanging Rock The Jim Jim Sauvignon Blanc Hanging Rock Winery $16-20 14/7/98 Hanging RockP A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay principally sourced from 2.6 hectares of estate pinot noir and 1.8 hectares of estate chardonnay. A wine made in a deliberately idiosyncratic style, which right from the outset has polarised opinions. The most contentious feature is the deliberate use of aldehydes to add complexity; more recent releases, and in particular, the Cuv e 92, have suggested winemaker John Ellis has pulled back on the more extreme manifestation of the style. R Drink nowS Oysters KilpatrickX 2171Z 14/7/98a Macedon Macedon X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Hanging Rock Macedon Cuv Hanging Rock Winery $26-50 14/7/98 Hay Shed HillP Produced from 1.2 hectares of estate plantings, and a new direction for Hay Shed Hill. As with so many of its wines, sells out very quickly and is not available (even at cellar door) for much of the year.R Drink nowS 1995U Peking duckX 14/7/98a Margaret River Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Hay Shed Hill Pinot Noir Hay Shed Hill $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 HeggiesP 14.95 KSome exceptionally good wines have appeared under this label over the years; the Yalumba group as a whole were one of the pioneers of botrytis riesling. Not made every vintage, but when it does appear, is of high quality. The 94 is right at the threshold of Trockenbeerenauslese weight, with 350 grams per litre of residual sugar. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Poached fruit or fruit tartX 2178Z 14/7/98a Eden Valley Botrytis Riesling Sweet Sweet Z Australia Heggies Botrytis Riesling Heggies Vineyard $11-15 Eden Valley 14/7/98 Hotham ValleyP 16.99 The only red wine in the Hotham Valley portfolio, but every bit as impressive as the majority of the white wines. A silver medal winner at the 1995 Mount Barker Wine Show. R 5-8+ yearsS 1994U Rib of beefX 2180Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of WA N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Hotham Valley Cabernets Hotham Valley Estate $16-20 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Brian BarryP Has been one of the main releases for the Jud s Hill label over the years, ever-reliable and seldom overstated. The 92 was one of the more powerful examples.R Up to 6 yearsS 1994U Steak and kidney pieX 2183Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley s Hill Handpicked Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _4Brian Barry Jud s Hill Handpicked Cabernet Sauvignon Brian Barry Wines $11-15 Clare Valley t late note 14/7/98 Kay Bros AmeryP "Q_Produced from a 1.3-hectare estate planting, and has really come into its own in recent years. R Medium term - 5+ yearsS 1994U Stir-fried beefX 2185Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _!Kay Bros Amery Cabernet Sauvignon Kay Bros Amery $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Kay Bros AmeryP The 1993 vintage was produced not from 100-year-old vines, but from 101-year-old vines and hand-picked into the bargain. It is comprehensively the best wine yet to come from Kay Brothers.R As long as you likeS 1994U Jugged hareX 2186Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Block 6 Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Kay Bros Amery Block 6 Shiraz Kay Bros Amery $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Lennards Brook EstateP The sole entry from Lennards Brook at the 1995 Mount Barker Wine Show. There is no question that Lennards Brook makes some of the most interesting wines to come from the Gingin/Darling Range area.R Short termS Yabbies or marronX 2188Z 14/7/98 Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Lennards Brook Estate Chardonnay Lennards Brook Estate $11-15 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Lenton Brae EstateP Has been one of the star performers for Lenton Brae over the past few years, with excellent wines made in both 1994 and 1995. Draws upon 2 hectares of estate plantings, although part goes to the Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blend.R 2-3 yearsS 1996U Sugar-cured tunaX 2190Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _"Lenton Brae Estate Sauvignon Blanc Lenton Brae Estate $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Lenton Brae EstateP In a similar mould to the Sauvignon Blanc, although more complex. The 95 thoroughly deserved the gold medal it won at the Mount Barker Wine Show of that year.R Up to 4 yearsS 1996U Asian dishesX 2191Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _+Lenton Brae Estate Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Lenton Brae Estate $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 'N LindemansP 9.99Q First released in 1995, and representing a brand extension for the long-established Nyrang label. Interestingly, this unoaked wine is sourced entirely from Padthaway fruit, and is made for early consumption.R Short term onlyS 1995U All pasta and white meat dishesX 2194Z 14/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill Nyrang Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Lindemans Nyrang Semillon Lindemans (Karadoc) e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 (N Lindemans Another Lindemans cellar-style label with a long and proud history going back to the 1960s. The style, and the varietal provenance, of the wine has varied over the years, historically often being released with many years bottle age. Typically a blend of Clare, Eden and Barossa valleys, it is matured in a mix of predominantly American oak, almost half in one- or two-year-old barrels. All in all, throws down the gauntlet to the Penfolds red wines. R+Could be a surprise packet - up to 10 yearsS 1995U Strong red meat dishesX 2195Z 14/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill Nyrang Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Lindemans Nyrang Shiraz Lindemans (Karadoc) e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia t late note 14/7/98 MaglieriP xLike the Shiraz, made primarily from grapes grown on estate vineyards in McLaren Vale and Blewitt Springs, and with an intermittent component from Coonawarra. The 1990 vintage was an outstanding wine, if in a slightly old-fashioned style, winning Steve Maglieri the Bushing King title in McLaren Vale in 1992 for Best Wine of Show. Matured in a mix of French and American oak. R 5-7 yearsS 1995U Parmesan cheeseX 2198Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Maglieri Cabernet Sauvignon Maglieri $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Marsh EstateP vMade from late-harvested semillon fruit which was quite evidently significantly botrytis-affected. A freakish wine which won a gold medal at the 1995 Hunter Valley Wine Show, the only late-harvest style to do so. Marsh Estate is quite obviously on to something special, for its 1995 wine repeated the exercise at the 1996 Hunter Valley Wine Show, and is really quite superb. Now-4 yearsS 1995U Any rich dessertX 2199Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Semillon Sauternes (375 ml) Sweet Sweet Z Australia _(Marsh Estate Semillon Sauternes (375 ml) Marsh Estate $21-25 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 McWilliam s Mount PleasantP 24.95 Now named after the Lovedale Vineyard from which it comes, but in earlier times called . Only released when fully mature, and then only from exceptional vintages. The 1984 vintage, which has won innumerable trophies and gold medals, was not released until 1995, and will live for another decade at least. Simply a superb wine. The 1986 is another magnificent wine, festooned with trophies and gold medals. As long as the corks lastS! 1986U Fine fish dishesX 2201Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Lovedale Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _,McWilliam s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon McWilliam s Mount Pleasant $21-25 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Merricks EstateP Always an intense and striking wine which, right from the word go, has shown strong cool-climate characteristics with lots of spice and lots of leafy characters. The 93 vintage won a gold medal at the Royal Melbourne Wine Show early in its life.R Medium termS 1995U RisottoX 2202Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Merricks Estate Shiraz Merricks Estate $21-25 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Millinup EstateP 12.50Q A tight, classic Mount Barker Riesling, slow-developing, produced from estate plantings near the Millinup Pass in the Porongurups at an altitude of 350 metres.R Medium term - 5+ yearsS 1995U Green bean saladX 2203Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Twin Peaks Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _#Millinup Estate Twin Peaks Riesling Millinup Estate $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 Mornington EstateP 18.50 Produced from 2.3 hectares of estate vineyards, and has performed well in tastings over the past three years, the 94 and 95 vintages in particular.R Short termS 1995U Smoked duck breastX 2206Z 20/7/98 Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Mornington Estate Pinot Noir Mornington Vineyards $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 20/7/98 Mount PriorP 13.50QkProduced from 15 hectares of estate plantings, and competently made into a relatively fast-maturing style. R Drink nowS 1994, 1995U Milk-fed vealX 2209Z 14/7/98a Rutherglen Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Mount Prior Chardonnay Mount Prior Vineyard $11-15 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Mount PriorP &A rare grape variety, originally bred in the Rh ne Valley in the 1880s by a Dr Durif, and which has made a special home for itself in northeast Victoria. The wines made from it by Morris, Mount Prior and others are very consistent in style: massively concentrated, ripe, dense and often tannic. Long term - 10+ yearsS 1994U Richest meat or strongest cheeseX 2210Z 14/7/98a Rutherglen Durif Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Mount Prior Durif Mount Prior Vineyard $16-20 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Padthaway EstateP 16.99Q As with all of the Padthaway Estate wines, made in the old stone woolshed winery on the premises. Barrel-fermented and aged in French oak for one year, the wine has been made in an extremely slow-developing style.R Up to 5 yearsS 1992U Breast of chickenX 2215Z 14/7/98a Padthaway Eliza Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Padthaway Estate Eliza Chardonnay Padthaway Estate $16-20 r Padthaway 14/7/98 PattersonsP ;Produced from a little under 1 hectare of estate plantings, with part of the output sold to Plantagenet, and which indeed formed part of the much-awarded 1994 Plantagenet Pinot Noir. The 94 vintage of Pattersons is a marvellous wine in its own right, easily winning a gold medal at the 1995 Mount Barker Wine Show. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Smoked duckX 2218Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Pattersons Pinot Noir Pattersons $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 PertaringaP Sprang into national prominence when the 93 vintage won the Great Australian Shiraz Challenge, run by Chateau Tahbilk with major sponsorship from Qantas. In doing so it was placed first among 100 currently available Australian Shirazs drawn from the length and breadth of the country. 5-10+ yearsS 1993U Rich red meat dishesX 2221Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Geoff Hardy Kuitpo Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _$Pertaringa Geoff Hardy Kuitpo Shiraz Pertaringa $16-20 ???Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 4N PetersonsP 18.50Q There have been some marvellous Petersons Chardonnays over the years, most famously the 86, a Qantas Cup winner. The 95, tasted twice at the 1995 Hunter Valley Wine Show, promises much if cleaned up prior to going to bottle.R Short termS 1995U YabbiesX 2222Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Petersons Chardonnay c Petersons $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 5N PetersonsP A special selection from the oldest plantings of shiraz on the picturesque Mountview vineyards of Petersons, and an extremely good wine. R Long term 7-12 yearsS 1993, 1994U Angus beefX 2223Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Back Block Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Petersons Back Block Shiraz c Petersons $26-50 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Piesse BrookP Entirely estate-grown (shiraz forms part of the total vineyard area of 4 hectares) and which has always been good, but never better than the Medium term 5+ yearsS 1993U Beef casseroleX 2225Z 14/7/98a Perth Hills Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Piesse Brook Shiraz Piesse Brook $11-15 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Poplar BendP Pineau is the old spelling of pinot. It and the sparkling chloe share the 1 hectare of estate vineyard (making it the smallest licensed winery in Australia, say the Dunstans) and the same unforgettable label.R Drink nowS 1994U Quail saladX 2227Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Pineau Chloe Pinot Noir Z Australia Poplar Bend Pineau Chloe Poplar Bend $11-15 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 PortreeP UProduced from 3 hectares of estate plantings. An interesting vertical tasting in October 1996 included all of the vintages made between 1991 and 1995, the 91 and 93 being particularly good and demonstrating the ageing capacity of the wine. It certainly suggests that the 95, which is still fairly light, has its best years in front of it. R 1-3 yearsS 1995U Fish terrineX 2228Z 14/7/98a Macedon Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Portree Chardonnay Portree $16-20 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 RedbankP Produced from a single vineyard planted in 1993 to cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and malbec, and named in honour of Neill Robb s wife Sally, who has been partner in the Redbank Winery since day one. The unirrigated vineyard is very low-yielding, and the wine is as long-lived as one would expect, although wine quality is somewhat variable, exhilarating at best and frustrating at other times. Up to 20 yearsS! 1995U VenisonX 2230Z 14/7/98a Pyrenees Sally s Paddock Cabernet Blends Z Australia Redbank Sally s Paddock Redbank Winery $26-50 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Salisbury EstateP 9.95Q Shows the high-yielding side of Grenache, long-used around the world to make cask and flagon styles, and is attractive for that reason particularly because the wine has not been forced or propped up with the use of oak chips.R Drink nowS 1995U Mediterranean bistro foodX 2232Z 14/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill Milburn Park Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _&Salisbury Estate Milburn Park Grenache Salisbury Estate e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 ;N SandstoneP Prior vintages of this wine have often shown pronounced American oak influence which has added to the impact of the wine but was not really to my taste. Since 93 vintage the strong varietal fruit has been allowed to make its own statement. R 5+ yearsS 1995U Avocado with seafoodX 2234Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Sandstone Semillon c Sandstone $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 St FrancisP 11.9QeProduced from a single vineyard in McLaren Vale, and a pleasant wine showing good varietal character.R Drink nowS 1995U Brasserie, Italian cuisineX 2239Z 14/7/98 McLaren Vale Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia St Francis Grenache St Francis $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 St FrancisP Acquired from Roseworthy Agricultural College when Roseworthy ceased commercial winemaking and has an average age of 25 years. Its quality is underlined by winning a bronze medal in the hugely competitive museum class at the 1995 Canberra National Wine Show. ForeverS After dinnerX 2240Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Old Mr Boston Collectors X Fortified Z Australia _(St Francis Old Mr Boston Collectors Port St Francis $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 St HallettP 16.95Q A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc and 14% Merlot, all Barossa Valley sourced, and matured in a mix of American and French oak. The best yet under this label.R Medium term 5+ yearsS 1994U Lamb kebabs 2241Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _3St Hallett Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Merlot St Hallett $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 StevensP 11.5Q Produced from 1.4 hectares of estate plantings; competently made, although the oak in which it spends four months is somewhat questionable.R 2-3 yearsS 1996U Smoked chickenX 2243Z 14/7/98 Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Stevens Chardonnay Stevens Estate $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 StevensP 18.5Q A deluxe version of the Stevens Shiraz, produced from the grapes of three long-established vineyards in the McLaren Vale region. Made in very limited quantities.R Medium term 5+ yearsS 1993U Mature cheddarX 2244Z 14/7/98 Three Vineyards Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Stevens Three Vineyards Shiraz Stevens Estate $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 StevensP Graham Stevens has a quarter of a hectare of zinfandel, established way back in the mid-70s. It does not always produce wine good enough to be bottled as a single varietal; indeed, in most years it does not. Thus it has been variously blended with Cabernet Sauvignon ( 78 and 85); made into a M thode Champenoise ( 87); into a Nouveau style ( 88 and 89); and in other years simply incorporated into a dry red (since 1980). In 1993 it was made into a single varietal, and Graham Stevens believB@es it to be the best ever made. Limited cellar- door sales only. Up to 4 yearsS 1993U Spiced beefX 2245Z 14/7/98 N Zinfandel Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Stevens Zinfandel Stevens Estate $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 TullochP 10.95 A highly unusual release of a blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Ruby Cabernet and 22% Cabernet Franc, grown in the Hunter Valley and Cowra. Ruby Cabernet is mainly found in the Riverland; it is a vinifera cross which was bred in California by Professor Harold Olmo, and is noted for its good colour. The components come together very satisfactorily in this wine. The wine was matured in one- and two-year-old French and American oak barrels. R 2-4 yearsS 1993U s liverX 2249Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Tulloch Cabernets Tulloch e under $10 Lower Hunter Valley t late note 14/7/98 TullochP First released in 1995, and is in fact a blend of grapes grown in Gundagai (on the Great Dividing Range west of Canberra) and the Hunter Valley. The 95 was a good wine, the 96 better still.R Short termS 1995U Creamy pastaX 2250Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Unoaked Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Tulloch Unoaked Chardonnay Tulloch $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley t late note 14/7/98 Vasse FelixP A blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, one of the many variants which are used by Margaret River vignerons (often incorporating Chenin Blanc somewhere along the way). All of these blends appear to have some of the characteristics of a shotgun marriage, and I cannot help but be amused at the Classic Dry White descriptor. This wine, however, works better than most, winning a gold medal and trophy for best full-bodied non-wooded white wine at the 1995 Sheraton WA Wine Awards. B-The 96 is not in the same outstanding class. Short termS 1996U Rich fish dishes or pastaX 2252Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Classic Dry White White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Vasse Felix Classic Dry White Vasse Felix $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Voyager EstateP 25.53Q Draws upon 2.6 hectares of bearing cabernet sauvignon (a further 5 hectares were planted in 1995) and 0.8 hectare of merlot. Has consistently produced a strongly flavoured, structured style. The 93 won a gold medal at the Royal Perth Show in 1995.R 10+ yearsS 1993U Beef in red wine sauceX 2256Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot Voyager Estate $21-25 Margaret River 14/7/98 Wa De LockP 15.95 The 1995 vintage was released under a new label, which will in future be used on all Wa De Lock wines. The label change coincided with an enormous improvement in the quality of the Sauvignon Blanc thanks to the exclusion of the indifferent oak which had been used between 1991 and 1994. R Drink nowS 1995U Seafood pastaX 2257Z 14/7/98a Gippsland Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Wa De Lock Sauvignon Blanc Wa De Lock $11-15 r Gippsland 14/7/98 GN WestfieldP <John Kosovich will soon have to open a trophy room at his winery to accommodate all of the trophies and gold medals which his Chardonnays have accumulated over recent years; virtually every vintage since 1988 has been showered with gold. The 1994 vintage is simply the most recent in a long succession of such wines. Each way - now or up to 7 yearsS Virtually allT 1995U Marron or crayfishX 2259Z 14/7/98a Swan District Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Westfield Chardonnay c Westfield $16-20 Swan Valley 14/7/98 Willow CreekP bDrawn from 4 hectares of estate pinot noir; as with all of the varieties at Willow Creek, a significant portion of the grapes are sold to other Mornington Peninsula winemakers. Competent making by the Quealy/Harris team does the rest. A star at the 1996 Winewise Small Makers Competition, topping the strong field of 25 Pinot Noirs from around Australia. Short termS 1995U Gently spiced Asian foodX 2260Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Willow Creek Pinot Noir Willow Creek $21-25 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 IN WoodstockP 16QzProduced from a little over 6.5 hectares of estate plantings. The vines are old, and the fruit concentration substantial. R Up to 10 yearsS 1993U Game pieX 2261Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Woody NookP Came unheralded and unexpectedly to sweep the 1995 Mount Barker Wine Show, winning the trophy for Best White Wine of Show, having previously topped its class. Yet another testament to the wonderful white wine vintage the Margaret River region enjoyed in 1995. R Drink nowS 1995U Sugar-cured tunaX 2262Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Woody Nook Sauvignon Blanc Woody Nook $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Avalon VineyardP -Produced from estate-grown grapes, but bottled and tiraged for Avalon by Howard Anderson at Anderson Winery in Rutherglen. An interesting wine which strongly supports the view that the King Valley is particularly well suited to the production of pinot noir and chardonnay destined for sparkling wine. Valley is particularly well suited to the production of pinot noir and chardonnay destined for sparkling wine. LR 2-3 yearsS 1993U AperitifX 2269Z 14/7/98a King Valley Pinot Noir thode Champenoise X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _.Avalon Vineyard Pinot Noir M thode Champenoise Avalon Vineyard $16-20 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Boston BayP NProduced from 1 hectare of estate plantings, which are in fact matched by 1 hectare of cabernet sauvignon. In earlier vintages the production was blended, but on the evidence of the 92 and 93 Merlots, I can only agree with the decision to keep the wine separate. This is a very interesting and very good example of varietal Merlot. R 3-5 yearsS 1993U Pastrami, smoked beefX 2271Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Boston Bay Merlot Boston Bay Wines $11-15 Southern Eyre Peninsula 14/7/98 Chateau PatoP Produced from the 2 hectares of estate plantings, just across the road from Brokenwood s Graveyard Vineyard. Amazingly, virtually every vintage between 1986 and 1994 were still available at cellar door in January 1996 at very reasonable prices. R 10+ yearsS 1995U Barbecued beefX 2276Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Chateau Pato Shiraz Chateau Pato $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Currency CreekP mMade from a small portion of the grapes harvested from over 11 hectares of estate plantings. Year in, year out these vineyards produce sauvignon blanc of the highest quality, eagerly sought by other makers in the region. The 1993 vintage won the J G Kelly Memorial Trophy for Best Aromatic White Wine at the McLaren Vale Wine Show, and the 95 is every bit as good. R Drink nowS 1996U Grilled whitingX 2278Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Currency Creek Sauvignon Blanc Currency Creek Wines $11-15 Langhorne Creek 14/7/98 Darling EstateP Chardonnay does particularly well in the King Valley, producing grapes (and wines) which have flavour, notwithstanding the relatively high yields which all wineries achieve in the fertile soils and ultra-favourable growing conditions. This particular wine is barrel-fermented at ambient temperature, which puts its (not unpleasant) fingerprint on the wine. As with most of the Darling Estate wines on offer in 1998, a number of vintages are available through the mailing list. R 3-4 yearsS 1994U Salmon pancakesX 2279Z 14/7/98a King Valley M Koombahla Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _#Darling Estate Koombahla Chardonnay Darling Estate $11-15 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 DulcineaP QQUA simple, well-made direct style showing cool but not excessively cool-grown origins.R Drink nowS 1995U ShellfishX 2281Z 14/7/98a Ballarat Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Dulcinea Sauvignon Blanc Dulcinea $11-15 Bendigo 14/7/98 Karl SeppeltP Contract-made at Petaluma, and coming from the 4.56 hectares of estate plantings, part of which is also used for the sparkling wines. Tank fermented, and made in what Karl Seppelt describes as a lightly wooded style. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U PastaX 2282Z 14/7/98a Eden Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Karl Seppelt Chardonnay Karl Seppelt $16-20 Eden Valley 14/7/98 Karl SeppeltP Drawn from 2.75 hectares of estate plantings. The vines are now fully mature, and, in vintages such as 1991, produce grapes of tremendous concentration, and wine of commensurate power and extract. R 10+ years 1992U Rare rump steakX 2283Z 14/7/98a Eden Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Karl Seppelt Cabernet Sauvignon Karl Seppelt $16-20 Eden Valley 14/7/98 Karl SeppeltP }Made by Petaluma at Bridgewater Mill, and given extended lees contact, being progressively disgorged after not less than three years on lees. As the name suggests, left bone-dry after disgorgement and works exceedingly well. A version with conventional dosage has also been released from the 92 vintage and, as one would expect, is not dissimilar in style, simply a touch sweeter. Not requiredS 1992U AperitifX 2284Z 14/7/98a Eden Valley Brut Sauvage X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Karl Seppelt Brut Sauvage Karl Seppelt $16-20 Eden Valley 14/7/98 Heritage WinesP Once again, Steve Hoff has pulled something out of the ordinary at a mouthwateringly low price. Sometimes it is a Riesling, sometimes a Chardonnay, sometimes the Cabernet Malbec.R Each way, now or in 7 years timeS 1994U Beef in red wineX 2287Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Cabernet Malbec Cabernet Blends Z Australia Heritage Wines Cabernet Malbec Heritage Wines $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 IdyllP 18.35 Another mainstream wine from Idyll, which has always elected to blend its cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, and shows no signs of changing its tradition. On the evidence of the 93 vintage, there is no reason why it should do so; this is the best red wine from Idyll for many years. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U!Medallions of beef with mushroomsX 2289Z 14/7/98a Geelong Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia Idyll Cabernet Shiraz Idyll Vineyard $16-20 Geelong 14/7/98 IdyllP 15.50 Idyll Vineyard has always produced Gewurztraminer with an unusual depth of flavour and varietal character. This has shone through even when the wine has been oak-matured, although I much prefer the straightforward approach adopted in more recent years, and in particular with the Now-3 yearsS 1996U Asian cuisineX 2288Z 14/7/98a Geelong Classic Dry Gewurztraminer White Traminer Z Australia _ Idyll Classic Dry Gewurztraminer Idyll Vineyard $11-15 Geelong 14/7/98 JenkeP ~This is the third varietal release from Jenke Vineyards, produced from grapes grown on its Golf Links Vineyard. It is made in open fermenters, finishes its primary fermentation in Vosges oak barriques and then spends 12 months on lees. These interesting winemaking techniques are commonplace in Burgundy but rarely used with the Bordeaux varieties. They in fact work extremely well. Medium term 3-5 yearsS 1995U Braised lambX 2290Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Cabernet Franc Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Jenke Cabernet Franc Jenke Vineyards $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 JenkeP Another wine from Jenke showing skilled and sensitive winemaking techniques away from the mainstream. Produced from a now fully mature vineyard (planted in 1980), the wine spent 19 months on its lees before racking and bottling. R 5-10 yearsS 1995U Rib of beefX 2291Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Jenke Cabernet Sauvignon Jenke Vineyards $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 LiebichweinP EA blend of Riesling and late-picked Gewurztraminer from Ron Liebich s vineyard at Rowland Flat. Notwithstanding that it was awarded a trophy at the 1993 Barossa Valley Wine Show, and that it continues to drink and develop quite beautifully, was still available ex cellar door and by mailing list in 1996 at a give-away price. R Drink nowS 1996U Asian of all kindsX 2295Z 14/7/98 Riesling Traminer White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Liebichwein Riesling Traminer Liebichwein e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 LiebichweinP A blend of 60% Barossa Valley-grown material (from Rowland Flat) together with 40% Clare Valley material. Relatively quick-developing in style, but none the worse for that.R Short termS 1994U Salmon tartareX 2296Z 14/7/98 Riesling Of The Valleys White Riesling Z Australia _#Liebichwein Riesling Of The Valleys Liebichwein e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Lillypilly EstateP Tramillon is a trade-marked, proprietary name for a blend of traminer and semillon which propelled winemaker Robert Fiumara and Lillypilly Estate to overnight fame when the first vintage won the gold medal and trophy for Small Producers White Wine at the Royal Sydney Show in the early 1980s. It is, to put it mildly, an unusual blend, but does make a very pleasant cellar-door style. The 95 vintage is the best version for many, many years. R Drink nowS 1995U Gently spiced Asian dishesX 2298Z 14/7/98a Riverina Tramillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Lillypilly Estate Tramillon Lillypilly Estate e under $10 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 ]N NarkoojeeP An opulently flavoured wine, showing the full range of winemaking techniques, but always at the baroque end of the spectrum, and in a rapidly developing style. Short termS 1995U Salmon pizzaX 2299Z 14/7/98a Gippsland Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Narkoojee Chardonnay c Narkoojee $16-20 r Gippsland 14/7/98 Red Hill EstateP 18Q=A light, fresh uncomplicated Pinot to be consumed when young.R Drink nowS 1994U s trotter in crepinetteX 2301Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Red Hill Estate Pinot Noir Red Hill Estate $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Spring ValeP Spring Vale has had a hard time of it with frost damage in recent years, even though the vineyard is sited in an area not usually prone to frosts. Thus the quality of the 95 Chardonnay came as a welcome relief to the Lyne family.R Short termS 1995U Veal or porkX 2310Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Spring Vale Chardonnay Spring Vale Vineyards $16-20 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 Iron Pot BayP XSo far as I am aware, the only commercial Pinot Grigio (or, if you prefer, Pinot Gris) from Tasmania. 1995 was the first vintage from a small planting at the immaculately tended Iron Pot Bay vineyards. This really is an exciting grape for cool climates; the 95 has continued to develop very well, while the 96 is a more than worthy follow-on. R Drink nowS 1996U AntipastoX 2311Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Pinot Grigio White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia Iron Pot Bay Pinot Grigio Iron Pot Bay Wines $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 WellingtonP <Produced from grapes grown near Cambridge in the Coal River Valley close to Andrew Hood s winery, with both the 1994 and 1995 vintages in the top echelon of Tasmanian Pinots. It consistently shows strong, dark plum fruit reminiscent of the east coast Pinot Noirs, and quite different from those of northern Tasmania. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Tasmanian venisonX 2312Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Wellington Pinot Noir Wellington $16-20 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 Cliff HouseP 94 was near the top end of an extremely strong class of 1994 Pinot Noirs exhibited at the 1996 Tasmanian Regional Wine Show, a class which leaves no doubt about the potential of Tasmania for Pinot Noir if vintage conditions are right. The best wines in the class shared a depth of colour, depth of fruit and intensity of flavour not often encountered, and which should guarantee the wines above-average life expectancy. The 95 was not in the same class, but is certainly a serviceable winB 3-5 years, perhaps moreS 1994U Wild duckX 2313Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Cliff House Pinot Noir Cliff House $11-15 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 RotherhytheP The 1994 vintage of this wine was the star performer at the 1996 Tasmanian Wine Show, receiving unanimous gold medal points from the three judges, and a rare 19 points from myself. The Rotherhythe red wines have never lacked authority and power, but in this wine (and many of the more recent Cabernets) the astringency which was sometimes also present has been eliminated. It has been said that Steven Hyde makes Pinot Noirs for Cabernet drinkers, and there may be an element of truth in this, B=but no lover of Pinot could fail to be impressed by the 5+ yearsS 1995U GameX 2314Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Rotherhythe Pinot Noir Rotherhythe $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Brown BrothersP 16.85 Sourced from Brown Brothers estate in Milawa and Mystic Park Vineyards, the balance coming from contract growers in the King Valley. Typically harvested over a long period running from mid-March to late April, which invests the wine with an extra degree of complexity. American oak is used at a level which is in the mainstream of Australian commercial red winemaking. Both the 93 and 94 vintages are particularly good examples of the style. R 2-5 yearsS 1994U Braised beef Chinese-styleX 2316Z 14/7/98a King Valley M Victorian Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Brown Brothers Victorian Shiraz Brown Brothers $16-20 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Brown BrothersP 17.10 QDrawn from vineyards at various altitudes in the King Valley and hence harvested over a prolonged period running from early March until early May. Part barrel-fermented in a mix of new and one-year-old French and American oak barrels, and small components taken through malolactic fermentation. Typically given six months oak maturation. R 1-3 yearsS 1996U Steamed snapperX 2317Z 14/7/98a King Valley Family Selection King Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _6Brown Brothers Family Selection King Valley Chardonnay Brown Brothers $16-20 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Chain Of PondsP \Perhaps the most interesting of all of the Chain of Ponds wines because, while ripe and opulent, it does retain good varietal character. This suggests the vineyard site climate is at that finely balanced point where it is possible to produce both early-ripening and later-ripening varieties without sacrificing fruit richness or varietal character. R 2-3 yearsS 1993U Smoked kangarooX 2324Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Chain Of Ponds Pinot Noir Chain of Ponds $21-25 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Chain Of PondsP Amadeus may have been the second Christian name of Mozart, but it is also old Latin for Amadio, and hence its adoption for what the Amadios clearly see as their flagship red wine. Like all of the Chain of Ponds wines, estate-grown, and extremely competently made. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Rib of beefX 2325Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Amadeus Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _)Chain Of Ponds Amadeus Cabernet Sauvignon Chain of Ponds $26-50 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Hay Shed HillP An opulent barrel-fermented style which almost invariably works very well for Hay Shed Hill, produced from 3.5 hectares of estate plantings.R 2-4 yearsS 1996U LobsterX 2328Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Hay Shed Hill Semillon Hay Shed Hill $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Craig AvonP kMade in limited quantities from now-mature estate plantings. Right from the outset the wines have been well crafted, but the 1995 is by far the most successful, showing particularly well in the 1996 Winewise Small Makers Competition. Interestingly, has more direct, bright fruit and less malolactic influence than the majority of Mornington Peninsula Chardonnays. Short termS 1995U Prosciutto and melonX 2331Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Craig Avon Chardonnay Craig Avon Vineyard $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 MaxwellP `Another shining star (on my score sheet, at least) at the 1996 Winewise Small Makers Competition. Indeed, of the 200 wines I tasted at that competition, it received the highest points. The full gamut of winemaking techniques have been used, and the wine is opulently oaky, but an excellent example of the style. The 96 is another quite excellent wine. Short termS 1996U Grilled scampiX 2332Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Maxwell Chardonnay Maxwell Wines $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 CiavarellaP A surprise packet from the King Valley which performed exceptionally well at the 1996 Winewise Small Makers Competition. At the end of the day, it does reflect the high yields which are par for the course in the King Valley, but is quite beautifully made. R Drink nowS 1994U YabbiesX 2333Z 14/7/98a King Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Ciavarella Chardonnay Ciavarella $11-15 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 WilsonP <The 94 vintage was placed first in the 75-strong class of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet blends at the 1996 Winewise Small Makers Competition. This was the strongest and most numerous class in the competition, with many of the best-known small wineries contesting the class, so the win was especially meritorious. 10-15 yearsS 1994U Char-grilled T-boneX 2334Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Gallery Series Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _(Wilson Gallery Series Cabernet Sauvignon Wilson Vineyard $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 HugoP 14.5Q Marks a (partial) return to form for Hugo, building on the good fruit of its wines from the 92 vintage, and recalling some of the glory days of the 1980s. As ever, there has been skilled use of American oak to add to the total impact and flavour.R 3-7 yearsS 1995U Beef casseroleX 2335Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 MintaroP An enormously powerful wine which, tasted blind, seems to have almost as much density and extract as the wines of Wendouree. Was runner-up in the Cabernet class at the 1996 Winewise Small Makers Competition. 15-20 yearsS 1994U Leave it in the cellarX 2336Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Mintaro Cabernet Sauvignon Mintaro Wines $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Wirilda CreekP When first tasted in 1995, the wine was simply called Cabernet Malbec Shiraz (being in fact a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec and 25% Shiraz). It has now succumbed to the d Arenberg disease and is called Trinity The Blend , and the price has risen slightly. Each way - now or in 5 yearsS 1994U Beef goulashX 2338Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Trinity The Blend Cabernet Blends Z Australia _!Wirilda Creek Trinity The Blend Wirilda Creek $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Chittering EstateP Quite obviously made using the full array of Burgundian winemaking techniques with barrel fermentation of cloudy juice, lees contact, malolactic fermentation and prolonged barrel ageing. A complex wine is the result, with flavours well into the secondary spectrum. R 3-4 yearsS 1994U Smoked chickenX 2341Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of WA Hill Top Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _-Chittering Estate Hill Top Reserve Chardonnay Chittering Estate $21-25 Perth Hills 14/7/98 Boneo PlainsP 13Q;An impressive early release in full-frontal regional style.R Short termS 1995U Pasta carbonaraX 2342Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Boneo Plains Chardonnay Boneo Plains $11-15 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 HawleyP Produced from 4 hectares of estate plantings and made under contract at Pipers Brook by Andrew Pirie and his winemaking team. If oak has been used, it is not obvious in the wine.R 2-4 yearsS 1995U AbaloneX 2343Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Rubicon Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Hawley Rubicon Chardonnay Hawley Vineyard $21-25 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 JardeeP Made in minuscule quantities from grapes purchased from other growers in the Pemberton region around Manjimup. Given the tiny quantity, the winemaking is extraordinarily good.R 2-3 yearsS 1995U CalamariX 2344Z 14/7/98a Pemberton Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Jardee Chardonnay Jardee $21-25 r Pemberton 14/7/98 KellybrookP Although 1995 was not the easiest of vintages, Kellybrook did well with this wine, made in a direct, simple fruit-driven style. It is said to have spent six months in oak, but the oak impact is barely perceptible. R 2-4 yearsS 1996U Yarra Valley yabbiesX 2345Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Kellybrook Chardonnay Kellybrook $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Kingston EstateP Chief winemaker Bill Moularadellis, who graduated from Roseworthy Agricultural College in 1985, has been responsible for the excellent quality of so many of the Kingston Estate wines. The Chardonnays, in particular, develop quickly, in typical Riverland style, but by their very nature are designed to be consumed when young. A surprisingly wide range of fermentation techniques are used on small parcels of fruit which are then blended to make the fine wine; a portion is barrel-fermented in A merican oak, but the wine is essentially fruit, rather than oak-driven, and all the better for that. Over the years has won both trophies and gold medals. R Drink nowS 1996U Veal in white sauceX 2346Z 14/7/98a Riverland Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Kingston Estate Chardonnay Kingston Estate e under $10 Murray Valley t late note 14/7/98 Kingston EstateP Only limited quantities of the Reserve wines are made, typically between 500 1000 cases, representing but a tiny fraction of the Kingston Estate output. The 91 Reserve Chardonnay won the prestigious Hyatt Advertiser Trophy for Best South Australian Chardonnay in 1994, and at its peak was a quite lovely wine. The wine is given some skin contact and is fermented in one-year-old French oak puncheons, and given extended lees contact. Whether the style is to be preferred to the more restrained varietal wine, and whether the price differential is always justified, will depend partly on the year and partly on the eye of the beholder. Short termS 1993U Roast stuffed chickenX 2347Z 14/7/98a Riverland Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"Kingston Estate Reserve Chardonnay Kingston Estate $11-15 Murray Valley t late note 14/7/98 Kingston EstateP uYet another wine from Kingston Estate which reflects the skills of chief winemaker Bill Moularadellis, who manages to achieve the maximum result from Riverland Cabernet. Complexity is achieved by selecting grapes in small batches from a number of different vineyards and fermenting these separately. The wine is matured in American oak for 18 months but is not over-wooded. Short termS 1994U Spring lamb in filo pastryX 2348Z 14/7/98a Riverland Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _"Kingston Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Kingston Estate e under $10 Murray Valley t late note 14/7/98 MarribrookP 12.95Q Made in the modern unwooded style, and showing the very high-toned and attractive fruit aroma and flavour of the region and, more particularly, of the 1995 vintage. R 3-5 yearsS 1996U Marron, of courseX 2350Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Marribrook Unwooded Chardonnay Marribrook $11-15 Great Southern 14/7/98 OakvaleP WOakvale produces both wooded and unwooded Chardonnay, and I have a strong preference for the latter. For one thing, the Hunter can produce generously flavoured Chardonnay without the use of oak; for another, once again it shows that if you are going to use oak in the making of Chardonnay, the quality and type of oak chosen are all-important. Short termS 1996U Fillet of pork 2351Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Peach Tree Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Oakvale Peach Tree Unwooded Chardonnay Oakvale $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 PetalumaP The Petaluma Sharefarmers wines now bear the word Coonawarra on their label as the battle over the precise delineation of the boundaries of Coonawarra intensifies. The Sharefarmers vineyard has the misfortune to be on the wrong side of the road (according to some) and it is over this vineyard more than any other that the debate and probable court proceedings will centre. That apart, this wine is a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, typically with around 30% eB ach of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10%+ Cabernet Franc. Deliberately and very successfully made for early consumption. Short termS 1994U Italian, light meatX 2352Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Sharefarmers Red Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Petaluma Sharefarmers Red Petaluma $11-15 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Reilly s CottageP 11QiProduced from an old, low-yielding vineyard, which may explain the extra weight and softness of the wine.R 3-5 yearsS 1996U AntipastoX 2353Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley M Watervale Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _#Reilly s Cottage Watervale Riesling Reilly s Cottage $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Wantirna EstateP A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, the ultimate Bordeaux-blend. The wine is given three weeks maceration on skins at the end of fermentation, and spends two years in a mix of new and used central-France barriques before being bottled. 5-10 yearsS 1993U Roast vealX 2357Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Wantirna Estate Cabernet Merlot Wantirna Estate $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 WinsteadP 14.5Q Produced from a little over half a hectare of estate plantings. The 1995 vintage won a silver medal at the 1996 Tasmanian Wine Show, coming second in its class.R Each way; now or laterS 1996U Steamed asparagusX 2358Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Winstead Riesling Winstead $11-15 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 WildwoodP .The 93 was the winner of a gold medal at the Royal Melbourne Wine Show in 1993 as an unbottled wine, but has made the grade through bottling and bottle maturation. Very much preferable to the Merlot Cabernet Franc of the same year. While the 94 is not so impressive, once again it has more substance. R 3-5 yearsS 1993U OxtailX 2360Z 14/7/98a Sunbury N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Wildwood Cabernets Wildwood $16-20 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 Browns Of PadthawayP 13.50 Made in traditional style, with American oak making a significant contribution to the overall flavour and impact of the wine. The wine is said to be matured in a mix of French and American oak but, as so frequently happens, it is the latter which dominates in sensory terms. R 3-6 yearsS 1994U Beef casseroleX 2363Z 14/7/98a Padthaway M T-Trellis Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _$Browns Of Padthaway T-Trellis Shiraz Browns of Padthaway $11-15 r Padthaway 14/7/98 Browns Of PadthawayP A wine which picks up where the Shiraz leaves off, with very considerable fruit and oak extract. A plush, opulent show style which has won a number of medals, including a gold medal, at national wine shows.R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Marinated beefX 2364Z 14/7/98a Padthaway Myra Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _:Browns Of Padthaway Myra Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Browns of Padthaway $16-20 r Padthaway 14/7/98 Constable & HershonP 19.95Q In early 1997, both 92 and 93 vintages were on offer under this label, as well as an attractive 1996 unwooded Chardonnay which topped its class at the 1996 Hunter Valley Wine Show.R Drink nowS 1993U Chinese chicken and cashew nutsX 2366Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Constable & Hershon Chardonnay Constable & Hershon $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Driftwood EstateP 19.35Q Draws upon 4 hectares of estate plantings, and likely incorporating a little Merlot. A blood brother to the white wines, rich, mouthfilling and immediately attractive.R 5-8 yearsS 1995U Lamb shanksX 2370Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _#Driftwood Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Driftwood Estate $16-20 Margaret River 14/7/98 Marybrook EstateP Semillon is the sole wine of Marybrook Estate, made under contract by Peter Stark at Cape Clairault. The 95 vintage won a silver medal at the 1995 Mount Barker Wine Show.R Up to 5 yearsS 1995U Pasta carbonaraX 2371Z 14/7/98 Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Marybrook Estate Semillon Marybrook Estate $11-15 Margaret River 14/7/98 Mount GisborneP 19.5QhProduced from 3 hectares of estate plantings, with both the 93 and 94 vintages on sale in early 1996. R Up to 5 yearsS 1993, 1994U YabbiesX 2372Z 14/7/98a Macedon Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Mount Gisborne Chardonnay Mount Gisborne Wines $16-20 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 Stephen JohnP It would indeed be a surprise and a disappointment if Stephen John was not able to produce a first-class Riesling from the estate plantings. The wine is made in a full-bodied style, which once again is what one might expect given his prior winemaking experience. 3-6+ yearsS 1995U Steamed asparagusX 2375Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley M Watervale Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Stephen John Watervale Riesling Stephen John Wines $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 TatachillaP A blend of Grenache and Shiraz, the 94 vintage won the trophy for Best Lighter Bodied Dry Red Table Wine at the 1996 Sydney International Wine Competition, receiving top points from all nine judges. It is made from dry-grown 60-year-old bush-pruned McLaren Vale grenache and shiraz vines, open fermented, and matured for 12 months in a mix of new American and used French hogsheads. The 96 is another extremely good wine. Each wayS 1996U Roast pigeon breastX 2378Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Keystone Shiraz Blends Z Australia Tatachilla Keystone Tatachilla $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Deakin EstateP Draws upon 43 hectares of estate plantings; while the region is far better suited to white grapes (and hence white wines) than reds, Deakin Estate winemaker Mark Zeppel has done a pretty good job with this wine. The 1996 comes partly off 15-year-old vines, and partly off a new planting of cabernet which shows considerable promise. It suffers some of the slightly closed characters of early-release wines. R 1-2 yearsS 1996U Lighter red meat dishesX 2382Z 14/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _ Deakin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Deakin Estate e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 Lake BarringtonP A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, estate-grown, and made for Lake Barrington Estate by specialist sparkling winemaker Steve Lubiana. The 93 topped the sparkling wine class at the 1996 Tasmanian Wine Show. At the 1997 Tasmanian Wine Show the 94 followed in the footsteps of the 93, winning the trophy for Best Sparkling Wine in the open classes, while the 93 won the trophy for Best Museum Wine (Still or Sparkling). R Drink nowS 1994U AperitifX 2383Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania M Alexandra thode Champenoise X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _-Lake Barrington Alexandra M thode Champenoise Lake Barrington Estate $21-25 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Fishburn & O KeefeP 1In the tradition of the majority of the fine sparkling wines of the world, a complex blend drawn from vineyards across Tasmania and a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir contribution is evident from start to finish. As the label attests, co-owner Mike Fishburn is a fanatical fly-fisherman. Not requiredS Oysters, shellfishX 2384Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Trout X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Fishburn & O Keefe Trout Brut Fishburn & O'Keefe $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 WharncliffeP ;Slightly less than half a hectare of Chardonnay established in 1990 produced a mere 36 cases of wine in 1995, but certainly proved that small can be beautiful, being the second highest-pointed wine in the 1995 Chardonnay class at the 1996 Tasmanian Regional Wine Show, and only narrowly missing out on a gold medal. R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Cold-smoked Tasmanian salmonX 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Wharncliffe Chardonnay Wharncliffe $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Chateau TahbilkP As the label indicates, made entirely from a single planting of vines established in 1860. First made in 1979, and seldom producing more than 400 cases. The vines yield between half a tonne to one and a half tonnes per acre, depending on the year, and the wine is made in much the same fashion as all of the Chateau Tahbilk reds, except that from 1991 onwards, 10% new wood has been used. 1991U Marinated venisonX 2388Z 14/7/98a Goulburn Valleyf 1860 Vines Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _!Chateau Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz Chateau Tahbilk Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Chateau TahbilkP A wine with a proud history, numbering among its past vintages some of the most memorable full-bodied Australian dry reds made since the Second World War. In earlier decades, oscillated between a shiraz pressings and a cabernet sauvignon base, but has now settled upon cabernet sauvignon. Approximately 500 cases are made each vintage, but this is very much dependent on the year, and in fact none was made in either 1987 or 1989. The next release will be of the 1988 vintage in 1997 (the 86 hB$aving been released before the Up to 20 yearsS5 1985U Rich red meat dishesX 2392Z 14/7/98a Goulburn Valleyf Special Bin Dry Red Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _#Chateau Tahbilk Special Bin Dry Red Chateau Tahbilk Central Goulburn Valley 14/7/98 Queen AdelaideP <The Treasure Chest series of Coonawarra Clarets (meaning shiraz) spans the 1949 to 1956 vintages, and are as legendary for their quality as for their superb engraved parchment labels, the most beautiful (and expensive) ever created in this country. All in all, rare jewels in the showcase of Australian wine history. R Drink nowS Milk-fed lamb or vealX 2393Z 10/7/98a Barossa Valleyf Woodley Treasure Chest Claret Shiraz Z Australia _,Queen Adelaide Woodley Treasure Chest Claret Queen Adelaide Barossa Valley 10/7/98 Black RidgeP pMade from the unquestionably inferior bachtebel clone, yet a wine which has abundant colour, flavour and varietal character. It makes one wonder what might be achieved on this most southerly commercial vineyard in the world if one of the top clones of pinot noir were to be used. The 94 is the best yet, winning a silver medal at the 1995 Royal Easter Show, Auckland. R 1-2 yearsS 1994, 1995U Grilled rabbitX 14/7/98` Otagob 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Black Ridge Pinot Noir Black Ridge $21-25 Otago 14/7/98 Cellier Le BrunP 26.95Q Made entirely from hand-picked pinot noir, and described by Daniel Le Brun as a red wine drinker s sparkler . It is held on yeast lees for two years before disgorgement and is typically rich and full-bodied.R Drink nowS Fish, veal or chicken dishesX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling X Sparkling Sparkling Red New Zealand Cellier Le Brun Ros Cellier Le Brun $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Cellier Le BrunP 0Made entirely from chardonnay, and given almost three years on yeast lees prior to disgorgement. In the mainstream of the Cellier Le Brun style, rich and full of flavour. Has been particularly successful in New Zealand wine shows, and is recognised as a Classic in the 1996 New Zealand Annual Wine Guide. R Drink nowS 1991U$Rich seafood with beurre blanc sauceX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Blanc De Blancs X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand Cellier Le Brun Blanc De Blancs Cellier Le Brun $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Allan ScottP An elegant demonstration of the capacity of Marlborough to produce botrytis rieslings of the highest quality if the conditions are right as they were in 1993. This is an extremely good wine by any standards.R 2-4 yearsS Poached nectarinesX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Autumn Riesling Sweet Sweet New Zealand Allan Scott Autumn Riesling Allan Scott Wines $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Chard FarmP 21.00 The very unusual climate of southern New Zealand, with its long summer daylight hours, but a relatively short growing season interspersed with occasionally very hot days and cold nights, poses a question for any grape variety. It certainly does so for pinot noir, although the majority of winemakers who ply their trade here believe the variety is indeed suited to the climate. This wine supports that view. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Breast of duckX 14/7/98` Otagob 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Chard Farm Pinot Noir Chard Farm $21-25 Otago 14/7/98 Cloudy BayP 31.50 The extensive chardonnay plantings of Cloudy Bay (almost 35 hectares in total) are increasingly directed to the production of Pelorus, with the newer plantings dedicated to this purpose. However, Cloudy Bay produces a Chardonnay of real stature and complexity, made using prolonged yeast lees contact, malolactic fermentation and ageing in French oak. About 70 80% of the wine is barrel-fermented, 20% in new French oak. R 3-5 yearsS 1995U SweetbreadsX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked)f Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Cloudy Bay Chardonnay Cloudy Bay $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Conders BendP :Produced from 3 hectares of sauvignon blanc now owned by the Gass family, and stood out as one of the top three wines at a major regional tasting (under show conditions) held in Marlborough in the second half of 1994. An absolutely delicious wine which would please even those who do not much like Sauvignon Blanc. R Drink nowS 1994U CalamariX 14/7/98` 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Conders Bend Sauvignon Blanc Conders Bend $11-15 ??Marlborough - intro 14/7/98 BabichP 15.95 xA new label from Babich, dropping the word blanc from the varietal name, but doubly identifying itself as of Hawke s Bay origin by the principal brand name of Mara Estate and the subtitle Gimblett Road . A luscious style neatly pinpointing the dramatic difference between Hawke s Bay and Marlborough sauvignon blanc; barrel-fermented and aged on yeast lees for nine months. R Drink nowS 1994U Richer seafood, white meatsX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Mara Estate N Sauvignon White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Babich Mara Estate Sauvignon Babich $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 N Blue RockP A wine which shows the hazards of vintage generalisations in New Zealand (or anywhere else, for that matter). The 93 (from a vintage with a terrible reputation) is a very attractive wine, the 94 not so.R Drink nowS 1995U Salad Ni oiseX 14/7/98` SBa Wairarapa 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Blue Rock Sauvignon Blanc Blue Rock Vineyard $11-15 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Coopers CreekP 16.5Q Made in similar style with similar winemaking philosophies apparent in the Hawke s Bay Chardonnay and in the deluxe Swamp Reserve Chardonnay. Full-blown, ripe fruit drives a highly commercial style.R Drink nowS 1995U Veal goulashX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Gisborne Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _!Coopers Creek Gisborne Chardonnay Coopers Creek $16-20 Gisborne/Poverty Bay 14/7/98 Coopers CreekP )A blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, partially barrel-fermented. The rich and full flavours which result have caught the attention of show judges and wine-writers alike; the 93 was a gold medal winner at the 1994 New Zealand Royal Easter Show, while the 94 is in much the same class. R 1-2 yearsS 1994, 1995U Asian prawn dishesX 14/7/98` SB SEa Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Gisborne Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand _!Coopers Creek Gisborne Fum Blanc Coopers Creek $16-20 Gisborne/Poverty Bay 14/7/98 CorbansP 13.95 Draws upon 22 hectares of estate plantings to produce an elegant wine with the highly perfumed fruit which distinguishes New Zealand Rieslings from those of Australia. However, as the performance of the 91 vintage at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards demonstrates, ages magnificently, the wine walking away with the trophy for Champion Riesling. The 95 vintage is well-enough crafted, but simply proves what a difficult year 1995 was for Riesling. R 2-5 yearsS 1995U Fish terrineX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Stoneleigh Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Corbans Stoneleigh Riesling Corbans (Marlborough) $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 CorbansP *The Cottage Block range is a new one for Corbans Marlborough winery; all of the wines are at the top end, and all are produced in limited quantities. This is a heavily botrytis-infected style which works very well. Added yet another gold medal to its tally at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. R 3-5 yearsS 1991U Fruit tartX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Cottage Block Noble Riesling Sweet Sweet New Zealand _$Corbans Cottage Block Noble Riesling Corbans (Marlborough) $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 CorbansP Alan McCorkindale has shown particular flair in handling pinot noir and merlot, not varieties one immediately associates with Marlborough. This is a quite delicious wine with pure fruit flavours to the fore.R 3-6 yearsS 1994U New Zealand spring lambX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cottage Block Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand Corbans Cottage Block Merlot Corbans (Marlborough) $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 CorbansP A famous label in New Zealand with a (relatively) long history of high-class wine production. For many years, indeed, it was the leading Chardonnay in New Zealand. Released with considerable bottle age, it shows both concentration and complexity.R 3-5 yearsS 1991U Deep-sea fishX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Cooks Winemaker s Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _,Corbans Cooks Winemaker s Reserve Chardonnay Corbans (Auckland) $16-20 Auckland Area 14/7/98 CorbansP The Longridge range is very much the product of the marketing genius of Corbans general manager Noel Scanlan, and sits alongside the Stoneleigh Marlborough wines in terms of price and market perception. The style is honest and relatively full-bodied, without being especially exciting. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Pork filletsX 14/7/98` Hawke s Bayb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Longridge Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _(Corbans Longridge Hawke s Bay Chardonnay Corbans (Hawke's Bay) $16-20 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Cross RoadsP A relatively unusual style for Hawke s Bay, which normally produces fleshy, opulent white wines by New Zealand standards. The winemaker s thumbprint is on the wine.R 1-3 yearsS 1995U ShellfishX 14/7/98` Hawke s Bayb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Cross Roads Sauvignon Cross Roads Winery $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 deRedcliffeP 15.95 TYet another Auckland district Chardonnay to prove its worth, coming from the 6.5-hectare home vineyard of deRedcliffe, which is largely planted to chardonnay. The wine is made in a restrained style, with the accent on the fine fruit. The 94 was the second highest pointed New Zealand wine at the 1996 Sydney International Wine Competition. R Drink nowS 1995U Breast of chickenX 14/7/98` 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Mangatawhiri Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _#deRedcliffe Mangatawhiri Chardonnay De Redcliffe Estates $11-15 Auckland?? 14/7/98 deRedcliffeP A relatively new wine for deRedcliffe, which has hitherto tended to blend Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon. A pleasant wine of medium weight, showing an interesting array of varietal aromas and flavours.R 2-4 yearsS 1993U Soft ripened cheeseX 14/7/98` MT CSb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red M Proprietor s Reserve Hawke s Bay Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand _3deRedcliffe Proprietor s Reserve Hawke s Bay Merlot De Redcliffe Estates $21-25 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Esk ValleyP Made from contract-grown grapes sourced throughout the Hawke s Bay region. In 1994, both standard and Reserve bottlings were produced, the standard wine being every bit as attractive in its youth as the Reserve version, and of course, being substantially cheaper. R Drink nowS 1995U Pan-fried troutX 14/7/98` Hawke s Bayb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _&Esk Valley Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc Esk Valley Estate $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Esk ValleyP 3The Esk Valley chenin blanc is matured for four months in previously used French and American oak casks, and is described as wood-aged on the label. In fact the oak impact is barely perceptible, but does add to the texture of the wine. It ages well, and a range of vintages are available at the cellar door. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Pork fillet with apricotsX 14/7/98` Hawke s Bayb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Private Bin Hawke s Bay Chenin Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand _/Esk Valley Private Bin Hawke s Bay Chenin Blanc Esk Valley Estate $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Giesen EstateP Made from heavily botrytis-infected estate-grown grapes picked in May at 38 brix. A stylish wine which showed particularly well at the 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition.R Drink nowS 1995U Homemade fruit ice-creamX 14/7/98` Canterburyb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Late Harvest Riesling Sweet Sweet New Zealand _#Giesen Estate Late Harvest Riesling Giesen Estate $16-20 Canterbury 14/7/98 Giesen EstateP Until 1992, the Reserve Chardonnays from Giesen Estate were all produced from Canterbury grapes and released under the Burnham School Road label. Between 1992 and 1994 the wine was made from grapes purchased from the Isabel Estate of Marlborough, but since 1995 has reverted to Canterbury. The full gamut of winemaking techniques is used, including malolactic fermentation, lees contact and 50% new French oak. R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Smoked chickenX 14/7/98` Canterburyb 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _ Giesen Estate Reserve Chardonnay Giesen Estate $26-50 Canterbury 14/7/98 Chard FarmP 15.00Q A wine which reflects Rob Hay s three years study in Germany (after graduating from Otago University with a Bachelor of Science degree). Hay went to Germany to study winemaking in a genuinely cool climate he says. Chard Farm certainly possesses that.R Drink nowS 1995U Delicate Asian dishesX 14/7/98` Otagob Weekends 10-6cYTraminer, Semillon, Chardonnay, Verduzzo, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. Gewurztraminer White Traminer New Zealand Chard Farm Gewurztraminer Chard Farm $11-15 Otago 14/7/98 Hunter 19.95 kThe 93 was a surprise packet from Hunter s; I have tasted numerous prior vintages, and been unimpressed. The wine has basically been sold in the United Kingdom, where it has widespread acceptance. If there were more vintages like the 93, the wine would no doubt enjoy international acceptance. The 95, it has to be said, is more in the mould of prior vintages. R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Saddle of hareX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Hunter s Pinot Noir Hunter s Wines $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Jackson EstateP 15.95Q As with the Sauvignon Blanc, estate-grown (from 4 hectares of vines) and, again as with the Sauvignon Blanc, showing an unusual degree of ripeness and softness. Perhaps some of these fruit characters derive from the fact that the vines are not irrigated.R 1-4 yearsS 1994U Trout mousseX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 White c)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Jackson Estate Riesling Jackson Estate $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Kumeu RiverP Michael Brajkovich holds firmly to the Auckland region, from whence all of the grapes for the various Kumeu River wines come. Eighty per cent are estate-grown, but the intake is supplemented for the Brajkovich Signature range in particular. His faith in the Auckland region is understandable when it comes to Chardonnay and Cabernet Merlot, but is rather more debatable with varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc. R 2-3 yearsS 1994, 1995U White-fleshed fishX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Brajkovich Signature N Sauvignon White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _*Kumeu River Brajkovich Signature Sauvignon Kumeu River Wines $11-15 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Lintz EstateP VLabelled Barrique Matured but in fact far more fruit, than oak-driven. In the 1994 Winewise Magazine Small Makers Competition it stood out like a beacon in the class because of the intensity of the fruit and the varietal character compared to the Australian entries. (The show was in fact open to both Australian and New Zealand producers.) R 3-5 yearsS 1995U Spiced Asian cuisineX 14/7/98` SBa Wairarapab 2 WhitecfChardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sanderson Sparkling. Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Lintz Estate Sauvignon Blanc Lintz Estate $16-20 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Matua ValleyP 27.50 @First introduced in 1991, the Ararimu label has become the flagship of the large Matua Valley range. It was based on the best grapes produced on the Judd Estate in Gisborne, as is the 94 vintage, although there was a release from 1993 which came from Auckland fruit, subtitled Waimauku (and which was a useful wine). R Drink nowS 1995U Veal Italian-styleX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Ararimu Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Matua Valley Ararimu Chardonnay Matua Valley $26-50 ??Gisborne 14/7/98 Matua ValleyP 17.90 dJudd Estate is not a Matua Valley-owned vineyard, but is in fact owned by Morris Judd. It has long produced what Ross Spence regards as special fruit and even though less fashionable than Hawke s Bay provided Matua Valley with its flagship wine for many years. It has now been effectively relegated by Ararimu, but remains a better-than-average wine. R 1-2 yearsS 94, 1995U Pasta with creamy sauceX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Judd Estate Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _#Matua Valley Judd Estate Chardonnay Matua Valley $16-20 ??Gisborne 14/7/98 MerlenP BNot surprisingly, Almuth Lorenz makes her Chardonnays using what might loosely be called European techniques, including barrel fermentation of partially clarified juice, lees contact for five to six months and partial malolactic fermentation of between 25% and 35% of the total blend. It will spend up to 18 months in oak. R Drink nowS 1993, 1994U KasslerX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Merlen Chardonnay Merlen Wines $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 Merlen Wines [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with well-integrated, subtle oak, but the fruit is not expressive. The palate follows down the same track, a pleasant, fault-free wine which simply doesn't command attention. RATING: 79 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; the bouquet is clean, with well-integrated, subtle oak, but the fruit is not expressive. The palate follows down the same track, a pleasant, fault-free wine which simply doesn't command attention. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">79 MerlenP 15.50 _While semillon is grown quite extensively in Marlborough, it is seldom produced as a straight varietal. Most is blended (in proportions of between 10% and 20%) with Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, this blend being one of Cloudy Bay s so-called secrets. This wine from Merlen is a very typical example of the variety grown in the cool Marlborough climate. R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Tandoori chickenX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon New Zealand Merlen Semillon Merlen Wines $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 MontanaP 12.95 JFirst made in 1981, and for long the leading sparkling wine to come from New Zealand, although now overtaken by Deutz. It is made from pinot noir and chardonnay grown in Gisborne, Hawke s Bay and Marlborough, and matured on yeast lees for 18 months. The release on the market in early 1997 was of exceptional quality at the price. Not requiredS Aperitif, shellfishX 14/7/98` PN CHa Auckland Areab 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparkling Lindauer X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand Montana Lindauer Brut Montana Wines $11-15 Auckland Area 14/7/98 MontanaP 22.95 yMontana s Brancott Estate must be one of the most photographed vineyards in the world; it can also boast being the birthplace of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. What is more, the aged-vintage releases of Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc (along with the principal Montana label and Cloudy Bay) demonstrate that, given the appropriate vintage conditions, the wines can age very well. R 2-7 yearsS 1993U Bluff oystersX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _'Montana Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc Montana Wines $21-25 Auckland Area 14/7/98 MontanaP 35.95 2The Fairhall Estate of Montana is primarily planted to red grapes, and a small section provides by far the best Marlborough red wine to be released by Montana. It retains unmistakable cool-climate characteristics, but has more flesh and ripeness than the standard Marlborough Cabernet Sauvignon of Montana. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Leg of lambX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Fairhall Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _*Montana Fairhall Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Montana Wines $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Daniel SchusterP 14.95Q The grapes are supplied under an ongoing contract, whole-bunch pressed on site at Hawke s Bay and transported to the Omihi Hills winery for barrel fermentation and ageing on yeast lees for 11 months in used Vosges and Troncais barriques.R 2-4 yearsS 1994, 1995U Roast turkeyX 14/7/98` Canterburyb 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Hawke s Bay Chenin Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand _(Daniel Schuster Hawke s Bay Chenin Blanc Daniel Schuster $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Daniel SchusterP 24.95 A mere 250 cases produced, sourced from Omihi Hills Vineyard in Waipara and the old vines block of St Helena, contracted to Daniel Schuster. The wine is made using Burgundian techniques and aged for 15 months in a mixture of one- and two-year-old Troncais barriques. (Not made in 1994.) R 1-2 yearsS 1993U Grilled quailX 14/7/98` Canterburyb 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _"Daniel Schuster Reserve Pinot Noir Daniel Schuster $21-25 ?? (Waipara) 14/7/98 Rippon VineyardP Produced in minuscule quantities, and these days packaged in the same tall Italian bottle favoured by Chard Farm. Packaging to one side, this is an extraordinarily opulent and rich wine, with consistent character showing through from one year to the next.R 2-3 yearsS 1994, 1995U Marinated venisonX 14/7/98` Otagob 1 Redc 4 Light-bodied dry red Pinot Noir Selection Pinot Noir New Zealand _$Rippon Vineyard Pinot Noir Selection Rippon Vineyard $26-50 Otago 14/7/98 N St NesbitP Produced from 4 hectares of low-yielding grapes, especially low-yielding in 1989 when birds destroyed much of the cabernet, forcing the release of a Merlot Cabernet, rather than a Cabernet Merlot, for that year. The wines are given extended bottle age before release, and benefit marvellously from it, as a mini vertical tasting of the 89 to 91 vintages showed in late 1994. Unhappily, no St Nesbit Cabernet Merlot was produced between 1992 and 1995, with only a tiny crop in 1996. 7-15 yearsS 1990U Loin of lambX 14/7/98` CS MTa Auckland Areab 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand St Nesbit Cabernet Merlot c St Nesbit $26-50 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Seifried EstateP 15.50 2A blend of highly botrytised riesling and gewurztraminer, although neither the Germans nor Hermann Seifried s native Austrians would approve of the use of the term Ice Wine , even if freeze concentration has been used in its making. The 94 was a gold medal winner at the Sydney s 1995 Royal Easter Show. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Fruit tartX 14/7/98` RI TRa Nelsonb 2 Whitec 3 Sweet white table wine Ice Wine Sweet Sweet New Zealand Seifried Estate Ice Wine Seifried Estate $11-15 Nelson 14/7/98 Vidal EstateP 11.50 The principal difference between the Private Bin and the Reserve Gewurztraminer lies in the amount of residual sugar: the Private Bin has 7.5 grams per litre (still technically dry under Australian wine show rules), the Reserve Bin is below the taste threshold at 3.85 grams per litre. No doubt, too, slightly lower-yielding or better-quality fruit is used in the Reserve Bin range. For all that, I think the Private Bin works better. R Drink nowS 1994, 1995U Japanese cuisineX 14/7/98` Hawke s Bayb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Private Bin Gewurztraminer White Traminer New Zealand _'Vidal Estate Private Bin Gewurztraminer Vidal Estate $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Vidal EstateP 11.50Q Partially barrel-fermented, and made entirely from Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc. The 94 was a gold medallist and in the Top 100 of the 1995 Sydney International Wine Competition. R 1-2 years 1995U Seafood terrineX 14/7/98` Hawke s Bayb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Private Bin Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand _#Vidal Estate Private Bin Fum Blanc Vidal Estate $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Vidal EstateP Consistently one of New Zealand s top red wines; the currently available 92 vintage was rated number five in Cuisine magazine s Top Ten New Zealand Reds for 1994, and was a finalist in the 1995 Sydney International Wine Competition. Not made in 1993, 1994 or 1995. R 3-5 yearsS 1992U Grilled calf s liverX 14/7/98` CS MTa Hawke s Bayb 1 Redc 5 Full-bodied dry red Reserve Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand _$Vidal Estate Reserve Cabernet Merlot Vidal Estate $26-50 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Villa MariaP A totally delicious wine which was one of Villa Maria s four gold medal winners and Top 100 successes in the 1995 Sydney International Wine Competition. An outstanding wine in its price category.R Now-3 yearsS 1996U Asparagus with prosciuttoX 14/7/98` Auckland Areab 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Private Bin Rhine Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _&Villa Maria Private Bin Rhine Riesling Villa Maria $11-15 Auckland Area 14/7/98 N CairnbraeP CArguably the most interesting, if not quite the best, of the Cairnbrae wines, simply because it shows less of the extreme herbal/hay/straw characters which so often seem to disfigure Marlborough Semillons. Quite frankly, I have no idea how it will develop, but it does appear to have the structure to age nicely in bottle. R 1-4 yearsS 1994, 1995 Angels on horsebackX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Semillon White Semillon New Zealand Cairnbrae Semillon Cairnbrae Wines $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 N CairnbraeP A powerful, fruit-driven style which relies neither on oak nor on prolonged skin contact to give it the depth of flavour it possesses. Like all New Zealand Chardonnays, will develop reasonably quickly, but is no more than pleasantly mature at two years of age. 1995U Stuffed musselsX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Cairnbrae Chardonnay Cairnbrae Wines $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Lake ChaliceP 14.50 The Falcon Vineyard was selected for its potential to produce outstanding fruit, say the partners. It is, even by Marlborough standards, extremely stony and free-draining. The 94 vintage does not show the concentration one might expect, though it is a pleasant enough wine. R Drink nowS 1994U ShellfishX 14/7/98` Marlboroughb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Lake Chalice Sauvignon Blanc Lake Chalice Wines $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Lawsons Dry HillsP This was the top-pointed wine among 15 Rieslings from the 93 and 94 vintages which I encountered during a major regional Marlborough wine-tasting in 1994. Perfection. (Not made in 1995.)R 2-5 yearsS 1994U Asparagus saladX 14/7/98` 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Lawsons Dry Hills Riesling Lawsons Dry Hills $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Rosebank EstateP 18.5Q Made in Canterbury from Marlborough-grown grapes by consultant winemaker Mark Rattray, and a quality wine in all respects. The 1994 vintage was a consistent silver medal winner in three consecutive New Zealand wine shows.R 2-3 yearsS 1994U AntipastoX 1002Z 14/7/98` Canterburyb 2 Whitec)1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) Marlborough Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _$Rosebank Estate Marlborough Riesling Rosebank Estate $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Clearview EstateP The same sophisticated oak handling evident in the Clearview barrel-fermented Chardonnays appears in the Fum Blanc. It adds a dimension to the wine without detracting from the fruit, and works wonderfully well. R 1-2 yearsS 1994U Salmon tartareX 1003Z 14/7/98` Hawke s Bayb 2 White c)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand Clearview Estate Fum Blanc Clearview Estate $16-20 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Clearview EstateP Shares some of the same deliciously ripe fruit characters of the Fum Blanc although, in this instance, unadorned by oak. This is the type of wine to melt the heart of the most hardened foe of Sauvignon Blanc.R Drink nowS 1994, 1995U Mussels in white wine sauceX 1004Z 14/7/98` Hawke s Bayb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) M Te Awanga Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _*Clearview Estate Te Awanga Sauvignon Blanc Clearview Estate $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Voss EstateP Unlike the early Voss Estate wines, made from Martinborough fruit, and although perhaps showing some young vine characters, has been very cleverly made. R Drink nowS 1994U WhitebaitX 1005Z 14/7/98` SBa Wairarapab 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Voss Estate Sauvignon Blanc Voss Estate $16-20 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 RongopaiP 13.95Q Very much an expression of the Te Kauwhata region climate, with ripe, tropical, slightly botrytis-influenced flavours. It is a wine which will appeal to those who do not like the more steely Marlborough-style.R Drink nowS 1994U Sweet and sour porkX 1006Z 14/7/98` Waikato and Bay of Plentyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Rongopai Sauvignon Blanc Rongopai Wines $11-15 Te Kauwhata 14/7/98 N Ata RangiP IA blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with the 15% of Syrah always making a major contribution. Typically, the wine shows ripe and robust fruit flavours, a light-year removed from the thin, weedy, and grassy red wines of lesser makers (and regions). Like the Pinot Noir, is the creation of Clive Paton. Up to 5 yearsS 1994U Barbecued lambX 2000Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Celebre Cabernet Blends New Zealand Ata Rangi Celebre c Ata Rangi $26-50 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 ChifneyP Cabernet Sauvignon has always been the winery specialty, although none was produced from the cool 1992 and 1993 vintages. The 86 was an outstanding wine, and the 94 can consider itself unlucky not to have won more than a bronze medal at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. R 4-7 yearsS 1994U Beef casseroleX 2004Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand Chifney Cabernet Sauvignon Chifney $21-25 r Wairarapa 14/7/98 ChifneyP Stan Chifney once threatened to remove his chardonnay and replace it with cabernet franc and merlot, apparently because of poor set (and hence low yields). On the evidence of the 1995 wine, this would be a great pity.R 1-3 yearsS 1995U New Zealand whitebaitX 2003Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Chifney Chardonnay Chifney $16-20 r Wairarapa 14/7/98 Cellier Le BrunP A blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir which, in the typical fashion of the top-end Cellier Le Brun wines, is given extended time on lees before disgorgement. R Not requiredS 1991U Blue-lipped musselsX 2002Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Vintage X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand Cellier Le Brun Vintage Brut Cellier Le Brun $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Chard FarmP Made from contract-grown grapes from Marlborough, a neat insurance policy as the vintage conditions in the two regions are often quite different. Skilful use of barrel fermentation has largely overcome the problems of the 1995 vintage in Marlborough.R Drink nowS 1995U Grilled fishX 2006Z 14/7/98a Otago Southern Lakes Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _$Chard Farm Southern Lakes Chardonnay Chard Farm $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Clearview EstateP Outside of the Chinon Region of the Loire Valley, only a few brave souls attempt to make a varietal wine from cabernet franc, a variety often somewhere between cabernet sauvignon and merlot, but without the best features of either. Clearview, however, shows that a high-quality wine can be made from the grape. A silver medal winner at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. None was made in 1995 or 1996. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Lamb Proven 2008Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Cabernet Franc Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand _'Clearview Estate Reserve Cabernet Franc Clearview Estate $21-25 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Clifton RoadP The first Cabernet Sauvignon was produced in 1992; after a difficult 1993 vintage, the 1994 demonstrates the potential of the vineyard, winning a silver medal at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Rack of lambX 2009Z 10/7/98a Hawke s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand Clifton Road Cabernet Sauvignon Clifton Road Hawke s Bay 10/7/98 Coopers CreekP ^Deservedly broke through at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards to provide Coopers Creek with its first red wine gold medal, for good measure being the only gold medal winner in the 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon class. It was an award with which I found myself in total agreement, showing the ripe, sweet fruit characters of Hawke s Bay to full advantage. R 4-6 yearsS 1994U Lamb shoulderX 2012Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Hawke s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _,Coopers Creek Hawke s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Coopers Creek $26-50 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Coopers CreekP Added yet another gold medal to an incredibly distinguished and consistent show career at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. Not surprisingly, recognised as a Classic in Bob Campbell s 1996 New Zealand Wine Annual. Up to 3 yearsS 1994U Fruit tartX 2013Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Late Harvest Riesling Sweet Sweet New Zealand _#Coopers Creek Late Harvest Riesling Coopers Creek $16-20 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Cross RoadsP 20.40Q A new direction for Cross Roads, produced both in a standard and reserve version in 1994, the latter winning a bronze medal at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards.R 1-2 yearsS 1994U Breast of duckX 2014Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Cross Roads Reserve Pinot Noir Cross Roads Winery $16-20 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 N Delegat A wine which simultaneously underlines the consistency of the Delegat s range and the capacity of Hawke s Bay to produce high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon. Top 100 place in the 1996 Sydney International Wine Competition, showing strongly against Australian red wines. R 5-7 yearsS 1994U Teriyaki beefX 2015Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Proprietors Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _0Delegat s Proprietors Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Delegat s Wine Estate $21-25 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 deRedcliffeP !Winemaker Mark Compton prides himself on his knowledge of the wine-styles of the world, being an indefatigable taster. It is not altogether surprising, then, that he should have essayed one of the first Semillon Chardonnay blends from New Zealand, taking a leaf out of the Australian book. R 1-3 yearsS 1994U Lobster mornayX 2016Z 14/7/98 Semillon Chardonnay White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand deRedcliffe Semillon Chardonnay De Redcliffe Estates $16-20 Te Kauwhata 14/7/98 deRedcliffeP 13.95Q From the newly acquired deRedcliffe Marlborough vineyard, and yet another testament of the ability of that region to produce quality riesling. A strong performer in the Top 100 of the 1996 Sydney International Wine Competition.R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Seafood saladX 2017Z 14/7/98 Marlborough Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _ deRedcliffe Marlborough Riesling De Redcliffe Estates $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Forrest EstateP dA blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc which spends 12 months in American oak barriques. The use of American oak in this instance seems to work very well, providing subliminal sweetness without creating a jangling sweet and sour effect, which is sometimes the case. Not made in 1995; next release (a 96) was due in late 1997. Medium term; 3-5 yearsS 1994U Shoulder of lambX 2020Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Gibsons Creek Cabernet Blends New Zealand Forrest Estate Gibsons Creek Forrest Estate $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 N GladstoneP Typically harvested in early May from the small estate plantings, and made with a skill and discipline not often encountered in very small wineries. As the cellaring notes indicate, a very tight, long-lived style.R Up to 10 yearsS 1995U Salad Ni oiseX 2025Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Gladstone Riesling Gladstone Vineyard $16-20 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 N GladstoneP Notwithstanding strong protestations to the contrary from makers such as Benfield & Delamere, there is overwhelming evidence that the Wairarapa region is ideally suited to the production of white wines and of Pinot Noir, and a more marginal proposition with the Bordeaux family. This is a good wine by New Zealand s standards, as the silver medal at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards attests, but is unmistakably New Zealand in provenance. R 3-4 yearsS 1994U Grilled calf s liverX 2026Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand Gladstone Cabernet Sauvignon Gladstone Vineyard $21-25 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Grove MillP rOne of a series of Grove Mill single-variety, single-vineyard wines coming from the Bladen Vineyard of Dave Macdonald and Chris Lowes. Tastings over several years of a number of vintages leave only one conclusion: the wine demands at least 18 months in bottle, during which time it transforms itself into an exceptionally complex drink with distinct Alsatian overtones. 3-6 plus yearsS 1994, 1995U Asian cuisine of all kindsX 2029Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Winemakers Reserve Gewurztraminer White Traminer New Zealand _,Grove Mill Winemakers Reserve Gewurztraminer Grove Mill $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 Gunn EstateP A confidently made wine showing use of the full range of winemaking techniques, but intelligently applied. Tasted very early in its life, and already impressive.R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Smoked salmonX 2031Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Gunn Estate Chardonnay Gunn Estate $16-20 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 CorbansP 11.00 DPart of the Robard & Butler range which extends as far as Australia, and which in the past has taken in Champagne (i.e. from France). The Mendoza name refers to the grapevine clone; interestingly, this wine is made without the use of oak, although one would never guess it from the overall complexity and weight of the wine. R 2-3 yearsS 1996U Chicken filletsX 2032Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Robard & Butler Mendoza Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _*Corbans Robard & Butler Mendoza Chardonnay Corbans (Auckland) $11-15 Auckland Area 14/7/98 CorbansP +The quality of Gisborne Chardonnay has long been recognised by New Zealand s winemakers, but not so readily by the wine-buying public. This wine shows one face of Gisborne Chardonnay; the Cottage Block another. Both the 1993 and 1994 vintages won gold medals at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Roast porkX 2033Z 14/7/98a Gisborne Private Bin Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Corbans Private Bin Chardonnay Corbans (Gisborne) $21-25 Gisborne/Poverty Bay 14/7/98 CorbansP IHawke s Bay is to cabernet sauvignon in New Zealand what Coonawarra is to cabernet in Australia: unchallenged as the premier producing area. Only in Hawke s Bay in New Zealand do the Cabernet Sauvignons escape the green tannins, although the wines do not generally have the density and sweetness of their Australian counterparts. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Yearling steakX 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Private Bin Hawke s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _2Corbans Private Bin Hawke s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Corbans (Hawke's Bay) $21-25 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 CorbansP 18.00Q A high-quality Riesling coming from the Amberley district near Christchurch in the South Island. A wine which has been consistently good, previously appearing under the Robard & Butler label, but now elevated to the Private Bin range. R Up to 7 yearsS 1994U Seafood saladX 2036Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Amberley Private Bin Riesling White Riesling New Zealand _%Corbans Amberley Private Bin Riesling Corbans (Auckland) $16-20 ??? Near Christchurch 14/7/98 CorbansP An interesting wine which is well-enough made but which, at the end of the day, simply goes to reinforce the point that pinot noir does better in Marlborough than it does in Hawke s Bay.R Drink nowS 1994U GameX 2037Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Private Bin Hawke s Bay Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _*Corbans Private Bin Hawke s Bay Pinot Noir Corbans (Hawke s Bay) $21-25 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Huthlee EstateP (Cabernet sauvignon was the last variety planted in the vineyard but on the evidence of the 1994 wine, might well have been the first. Aged for 12 months in a mix of French and American oak, it is a wine which shows why Hawke s Bay stands as the best producer of Cabernet Sauvignon in New Zealand. R 3-6 yearsS 1994U Rib of beefX 2040Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _!Huthlee Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Huthlee Estate $16-20 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Jackson EstateP 0Normally only one Chardonnay is produced at Jackson Estate, but in 1994 a decision was taken to make and release a small quantity of wine under the Reserve label. One hundred per cent barrel-fermented in 70% new French oak, and taken through 100% malolactic fermentation, the wine is exceedingly complex. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Guinea fowl or turkeyX 2041Z 10/7/98a Marlborough Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _!Jackson Estate Reserve Chardonnay Jackson Estate Marlborough 10/7/98 KindaleP NAQ]Made by Kym Rayner at the Glenmark Winery in Waipara, Canterbury, and extremely well-crafted.R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Pasta marinaraX 2042Z 10/7/98a Marlborough Willowbrook Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Kindale Willowbrook Chardonnay Kindale Wines Marlborough 10/7/98 Lintz EstateP Yet another Pinot Noir from Marlborough suggesting that with appropriate yield limitation and clonal selection, this region can become a very important producer of quality Pinot Noir.R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Saddle of hareX 2046Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Lintz Estate Pinot Noir Lintz Estate $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Mark RattrayP The 1994 vintage was made from first-crop fruit grown on a newly established vineyard. Notwithstanding its 14% alcohol, it is distinctly lighter and less complex than the far richer 93 (which to confuse the issue contains only 12% alcohol).R 2-4 yearsS 1994U King prawnsX 2047Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Waipara Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Mark Rattray Waipara Chardonnay Mark Rattray Vineyards $21-25 Canterbury 14/7/98 Mark RattrayP 21.95 The 1993 vintage of this wine won a gold medal at the International Wine Challenge in London in 1995, no mean feat. It underlines the suitability of the Waipara region for this variety. R 2-3 yearsS 1993U"Roast duck with black cherry sauceX 2048Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Waipara Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Mark Rattray Waipara Pinot Noir Mark Rattray Vineyards $21-25 ?? Waipara 14/7/98 Matua ValleyP Estate-grown on Matua Valley s Waimauku vineyard from which it takes its name. The only gold medal winner in its class at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards, and a country mile in front of the next wines in the class, which only received bronze medals. R 3-7 yearsS 1993U Eye filletX 2049Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Waimauku Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _(Matua Valley Waimauku Cabernet Sauvignon Matua Valley $26-50 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Matua ValleyP Received a bronze medal at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards, but I thought deserved better treatment. Has loads of fruit flavour, if in a quick-developing style. It is sourced from Hawke s Bay vineyards.R Drink nowS 1995U Wiener SchnitzelX 2050Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Cellar Selection Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _(Matua Valley Cellar Selection Chardonnay Matua Valley $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 MerlenP Made with the same European approach of all of Almuth Lorenz s wines, looking more to elegance and complexity than primary fruit. Lorenz varies her winemaking technique according to the vintage; typically between 7% and 10% of Semillon is included, and in better years, such as 1994, skin contact (six hours or so) is used, but none in more difficult vintages such as 1995. In fact Almuth Lorenz did particularly well with her 95 wine, which I prefer to the R Drink nowS 1995U ShellfishX 2051Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Merlen Sauvignon Blanc Merlen Wines $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Merlen Wines Z[3.5wine glasses] 1997 Light to medium yellow-green; pronounced dried straw, herb and grass characters are mixed with slightly riper fruit aromas on the bouquet, followed by potent herbal, green capsicum and gooseberry flavours on the palate. Tasted on a number of occasions with identical notes. Broader, older-style Sauvignon. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; pronounced dried straw, herb and grass characters are mixed with slightly riper fruit aromas on the bouquet, followed by potent herbal, green capsicum and gooseberry flavours on the palate. Tasted on a number of occasions with identical notes. Broader, older-style Sauvignon.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 MerlenP Says Almuth Lorenz, For me a Riesling should be very delicate, austere, light and very shy, so you will have to look closely to find all the subtleties. Try and age the wine. In fact the Rieslings are made with between 10 and 12 grams per litre of residual sugar, so they are certainly not dry; on the other hand, the intense fruit and relatively high acid of Marlborough Riesling seems to gobble up the sugar and one cannot accuse these wines of being soft or cloying. Merlen s best wine by B#some distance, and very age worthy. 5-8 years. 1996U Pork with gingerX 2052Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Merlen Riesling Merlen Wines $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 Merlen Wines [4.5wine glasses] 1997 Light green-yellow; the bouquet is fragrant, with attractive lime and passionfruit aromas. The palate is powerful and concentrated, with more of that lime juice fruit of the bouquet, the impact heightened by the deliberate use of considerable sweetness on the finish. You can go either way with a wine such as this; much will depend on the circumstances of consumption. RATING: 90 @BM bold:XXXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; the bouquet is fragrant, with attractive lime and passionfruit aromas. The palate is powerful and concentrated, with more of that lime juice fruit of the bouquet, the impact heightened by the deliberate use of considerable sweetness on the finish. You can go either way with a wine such as this; much will depend on the circumstances of consumption.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">90 MissionP Sits at the bottom of the price range, with St Peter Chanel Vineyard Chardonnay in the mid-price range, and Jewelstone at the top. Notwithstanding its modest place in life, vintages such as 92 and surprisingly 95 make it a wine worth watching for, and a bargain at the price. R Drink nowS 1995U Salmon pizzaX 2054Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Mission Chardonnay Mission Estate Winery $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 MontanaP 19.95 Arguably the most distinguished of all of the wines produced by Montana. Hand-picked grapes are pressed in the square Coquard Champagne press and fermented much in the manner of Champagne at 20 C, and are blended with the assistance of Christian Rouguenant of Champagne Deutz. The wine spends two and a half to three years minimum on yeast lees, and given further cork age prior to release. Made almost entirely from Chardonnay, with a small percentage of Pinot Noir. Not requiredS 1990U AperitifX 2056Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Deutz Blanc De Blanc X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand Montana Deutz Blanc De Blanc Montana Wines $16-20 Auckland Area ??? Marlborough 14/7/98 MontanaP 19.95 dA blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay (it varies slightly from year to year) from the Renwick and Fairhall vineyards of Montana (both in Marlborough). As with the Blanc de Blanc, hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed in the French Coquard press; the wine spends between 18 and 24 months on yeast lees, and then given further cork age prior to release. R Drink nowS Oysters, shellfishX 2057Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Deutz Brut Marlborough Cuv X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand _$Montana Deutz Brut Marlborough Cuv Montana Wines $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Morton EstateP @A complex wine fermented in new French oak barriques, and aged on yeast lees for 14 months. Twenty-five per cent was fermented without any yeast or sulphur addition, and underwent malolactic fermentation. The 94 and 95 vintages are all wines of the highest quality at the very forefront of New Zealand Chardonnay. R 2-4 yearsS 1995U Roast turkeyX 2058Z 14/7/98a Waikato and Bay of Plenty Black Label Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _$Morton Estate Black Label Chardonnay Morton Estate $26-50 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 NautilusP Made from 75% pinot noir and 25% chardonnay, all Marlborough-sourced. As one would expect, 100% malolactic fermentation precedes secondary fermentation and 18 months on yeast lees prior to disgorgement.R Drink nowS Aperitif, oystersX 2061Z 14/7/98a Marlborough e Marlborough X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand Nautilus Cuv e Marlborough Brut Nautilus Wines $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Okahu EstateP The intriguingly named Kaz Shiraz richly deserves the silver medal it won at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. Lushly ripe, it confirms the suitability of this region for shiraz.R 3-6 yearsS 1994U Lamb casseroleX 2065Z 10/7/98a Northland and Matakana Shiraz Shiraz New Zealand Okahu Estate Kaz Shiraz Okahu Estate Auckland Area 10/7/98 Greenhough VineyardP Sophisticated winemaking sees 30% of the grapes destemmed and crushed followed by six hours skin contact, and 70% whole-bunch pressed, followed by the usual ultra-cool fermentation for up to six weeks. In the manner of so many New Zealand Rieslings, has much higher residual sugar than one would expect in Australia, typically between 25 and 30 grams per litre. Both the 93 and 94 wines have won gold medals. R 3-6 yearsS 1994U Crab bisqueX 2070Z 14/7/98a Nelson Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Greenhough Vineyard Riesling Greenhough Vineyard $16-20 Nelson 14/7/98 Pleasant ValleyP Produced from Hawke s Bay grapes and first made in 1994. Complex winemaking techniques do tend to threaten the fruit a little bit, but one suspects the shortcomings lie (in the case of 1995) with the vintage, rather than the winemaking.R 1-3 yearsS 1995U PastaX 2072Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Signature Selection Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _.Pleasant Valley Signature Selection Chardonnay Pleasant Valley Wines $16-20 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Pleasant ValleyP First made in 1995, receiving immediate recognition with a bronze medal at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards just about its station in life, but then the price is right.R Drink nowS 1995U SeafoodX 2073Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _+Pleasant Valley Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc Pleasant Valley Wines $11-15 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Rosebank EstateP 21.75Q Made, as the name indicates, from Marlborough-grown grapes. It is fermented and matured in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak barriques; 40% is taken through malolactic fermentation. Consistent bronze medal winner.R 1-3 yearsS 1994U Quiche LorraineX 2075Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _&Rosebank Estate Marlborough Chardonnay Rosebank Estate $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 Rosebank EstateP Varying fruit sources have been used; the 94 vintage came from a new vineyard with first-crop fruit, the 93 vintage from an older vineyard. The 94 has a remarkable 14% alcohol, which in no way shows on the palate.R 1-3 yearsS 1994U CalamariX 2076Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Waipara Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _"Rosebank Estate Waipara Chardonnay Rosebank Estate $21-25 Canterbury 14/7/98 Seifried EstateP 11.50 TMade from estate-grown grapes drawn from Seifried s Upper Moutere and Redwood Valley vineyards, often picked late in the season; in 1993 the grapes were not harvested until mid-May. A wine made in the uncompromising tradition and style also favoured by Giesen with its Dry Riesling; a wine for Riesling heroes, but with great staying power. R 5-7 yearsS 1993U Salad, antipastoX 2077Z 14/7/98a Nelson Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Seifried Estate Riesling Seifried Estate $11-15 Nelson 14/7/98 SelaksP OSubtitled Mate Selak , who died in 1991, who not only drove Selaks to its present position of importance, but also was one of the leaders in the development of New Zealand M thode Champenoise. Whole-bunch pressed chardonnay from the Brighams Creek Vineyard of Selaks at Kumeu, Auckland, the wine spent over three years on yeast lees. R Drink nowS Grilled white-fleshed fishX 2078Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Blanc De Blanc thode Champenoise X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand _)Selaks Blanc De Blanc M thode Champenoise Selaks Wines - Auckland $26-50 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Spencer Hill EstateP The grapes for this wine in fact come not from Nelson but from Marlborough; Philip Jones purchases grapes from a number of regions and, in best Australian tradition, does not hesitate to blend them. This complex and rich wine has done very well in New Zealand tastings. Made in a most interesting, if not downright challenging, style with a mix of European, Californian, Australian and New Zealand influences. One hundred per cent malolactic fermentation. Courageously (but commendably) uses a synthetic cork. Received the Mission Hill Trophy for Best Chardonnay Worldwide at the 1997 Wine & Spirit Competition in Bristol, England. Winner of the Riedel Crystal Trophy for Fuller Bodied Dry White Table Wine at the 1998 Sydney International Wine Competition. R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Spiced prawnsX 2079Z 14/7/98a Nelson Tasman Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _)Spencer Hill Estate Tasman Bay Chardonnay Spencer Hill Estate $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 St Helena EstateP 12.50 First made in 1984, but has had a chequered career; no wine was made in 1992, 1993 or 1994 because of frost damage, and even the 95 yielded 1 tonne per hectare. One needs to have a considerable sense of humour or a healthy bank balance to sustain such an endeavour. The vagaries of nature to one side, 20% of the wine was barrel-fermented in new Demptos oak and added back to the remaining portion. R 1-3 years 1995U TortelliniX 2080Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Pinot Gris White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand St Helena Estate Pinot Gris St Helena Estate $11-15 Canterbury 14/7/98 St Helena EstateP 9.50Q An interesting wine, 50% of which is given brief wood contact and which seems to have many things in common with Chenin Blanc. A vertical tasting of three vintages ( 90 and 95) showed that the wine cellars well.R Up to 5 yearsS 1995U SaladX 2081Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Pinot Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand St Helena Estate Pinot Blanc St Helena Estate e under $10 Canterbury 14/7/98 St Helena EstateP 17Q~Given the full treatment, with whole-bunch pressing, 90% fermented in new oak, and 80% taken through malolactic fermentation. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Blanquette of vealX 2082Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand St Helena Estate Chardonnay St Helena Estate $16-20 Canterbury 14/7/98 St Helena EstateP sThe most famous of the St Helena wines, with a lineage going back to the days of Danny Schuster as winemaker. Much work has been done in the vineyard recently to increase fruit exposure and hence colour and flavour in the mature grapes. The full range of fermentation techniques are used other than the use of whole bunches; open fermenters and hand-plunging are the key. R Relatively short term: 1-3 yearsS 1995U Breast of squabX 2083Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand St Helena Estate Pinot Noir St Helena Estate $16-20 Canterbury 14/7/98 VavasourP 28.75 ?Only tiny quantities of the wine are made, and then only in a few vintages, with production typically around 400-500 cases. Five per cent whole bunches are used in a hot fermentation peaking at 35 C, with a total of six to seven days on skins. Yet another demonstration that Marlborough can make world-class Pinot Noir. Now-3 yearsS 1996U Seared Tasmanian salmonX 2089Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand Vavasour Pinot Noir Vavasour Wines $26-50 Marlborough 14/7/98 Villa MariaP Universally recognised as one of New Zealand s finest red wines, gaining top rating from all of the major writers. It shows Hawke s Bay at its best, and also the winemaking skills of the Villa Maria team. Matured for 20 months in a mix of French, American and German oak, partly new and partly one year old, it has all of the requisite ripeness of fruit, and develops stylishly over a five six-year period. R 5-7 yearsS 1990, 1991U Lamb shoulderX 2093Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon New Zealand _&Villa Maria Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Villa Maria $26-50 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Villa MariaP First made its debut in 1991, sweeping all before it. The succeeding vintages have simply confirmed this as being a Botrytis Riesling of world quality, the 94 winning the trophy for Champion Medium Sweet or Sweet Wine at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. Up to 5 yearsS 1994U CheesecakeX 2094Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Reserve Noble Riesling (375 ml) Sweet Sweet New Zealand _+Villa Maria Reserve Noble Riesling (375 ml) Villa Maria $21-25 Auckland Area 14/7/98 Waipara Springs WinesP First made in 1990, and a consistent performer since that time. Only very limited quantities are made as little as 70 cases in 1993. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U Smoked quailX 2095Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _ Waipara Springs Wines Pinot Noir Waipara Springs Wines $16-20 Canterbury 14/7/98 Highfield EstateP Made from very late harvested riesling picked in early June at 35 brix. The level of botrytis infection was in fact low, with the intensity coming as much from raisining and dehydration as from botrytis. Fermentation took several months because of the high sugar, and was stopped at a massive 13.8% alcohol, yet still with residual sugar of 110 grams per litre and acidity of 9.4 grams per litre. Trophy winner 1996 Sydney International Wine Competition. R 3-5 yearsS 1994U Marinated dried stone fruitX 2102Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Late Harvest Riesling Sweet Sweet New Zealand _&Highfield Estate Late Harvest Riesling Highfield Estate $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 SandihurstP Harvested at 22 brix from the estate vineyards, and taken through a prolonged fermentation at low temperatures. The ancient sandy riverbed soils on which Sandihurst is situated (and from which it takes its name) produce delicate, crisp styles.R Drink nowS 1995U Delicate Asian seafoodX 2104Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Reserve Gewurztraminer White Traminer New Zealand _!Sandihurst Reserve Gewurztraminer Sandihurst Wines $16-20 Canterbury 14/7/98 Sandihurst Wines [3.5wine glasses] 1995 Light to medium yellow-green; bell-clear varietal character is immediately apparent on the bouquet of light to medium intensity, with lychee and spice aromas. The palate is light, crisp and clean, and again varietally precise; a long way from Alsace in terms of weight, and perhaps does indeed need a touch more flesh. Retasted July 1997 and has developed excellently. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx 1995 <f"Bembo">Light to medium yellow-green; bell-clear varietal character is immediately apparent on the bouquet of light to medium intensity, with lychee and spice aromas. The palate is light, crisp and clean, and again varietally precise; a long way from Alsace in terms of weight, and perhaps does indeed need a touch more flesh. Retasted July 1997 and has developed excellently.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 Saint Clair EstateP As with the Riesling, vineyard and site selection, coupled with the almost awesome skills of Kim Crawford, have produced a wine which rises well above the reputation of the vintage.R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Pan-fried vealX 2106Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _)Saint Clair Estate Marlborough Chardonnay Saint Clair Estate $16-20 ??Marlborough 14/7/98 Chard FarmP >Another wine to uncompromisingly reflect the cool climate (and for that matter craggy beauty) of Chard Farm. It takes up where Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc leaves off; piercingly crisp in style in cooler years, richer and riper in outstanding vintages such as 1995 (outstanding in Central Otago, which missed the rain). R 1-2 yearsS 1995U Oysters, musselsX 14/7/98a Otago Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Chard Farm Sauvignon Blanc Chard Farm $16-20 Otago 14/7/98 GlenmarkP 14.00 Riesling has been one of the most consistent medal winners for Glenmark, which is part of a much larger mixed farming venture with crops, Corriedale sheep and one of the foundation herds of Santa Gertrudis cattle. Rayner s Australian background has left its mark on this wine. R 4-7 yearsS 1994, 1995U Seafood saladX 14/7/98a Canterbury Weka Plains Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Glenmark Weka Plains Riesling Glenmark Wines $11-15 Canterbury 14/7/98 Highfield EstateP .A piercingly pure, no-frills Marlborough style, very consistent from one year to the next. Against all odds, I marginally preferred the 93 over the 94 in a major tasting held in Marlborough, but that was more to the credit of the former than the discredit of the latter. The 95 reflects the vintage. R 1-3 yearsS U ShellfishX 14/7/98a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _ Highfield Estate Sauvignon Blanc Highfield Estate $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Highfield EstateP oThe 4 hectares of estate chardonnay are partly directed to the production of sparkling wine (in turn destined for Japan), but small quantities are made as a table wine under the Highfield Estate label. It relies on elegance rather than power for its appeal, with 20% barrel-fermented in new oak, and 10% taken through malolactic fermentation. The 94 is the best yet. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U New Zealand crayfishX 14/7/98a Marlborough Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Highfield Estate Chardonnay Highfield Estate $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 Highfield EstateP KProduced from 5 hectares of estate-grown grapes and has been praised by all and sundry since its debut. It is another convincing demonstration that the Marlborough region is far more suited to merlot than it is to cabernet sauvignon not surprising given the temperature summation but even merlot tests the climate to its limit. Relatively short termS 1994U Grilled kidneysX 14/7/98a Marlborough Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand Highfield Estate Merlot Highfield Estate $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Lintz EstateP Optima is one of the specialised German crossings (bred as recently as 1970) and specifically created for late-harvest styles. Lintz Estate has the only commercial plantings in Australasia. There are two reasons: Late Harvest and tiny quantities of intensely sweet Noble Selection. R 2-4 yearsS 1994U Apricot souffl 14/7/98a Wairarapa Optima Noble Selection Sweet Sweet New Zealand _#Lintz Estate Optima Noble Selection Lintz Estate Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Goldwater EstateP Produced from the 11-hectare Dog Point Vineyard in Marlborough, established by Goldwater Estate some years ago. A luscious and striking wine; Kim Goldwater may be without technical training, but certainly knows how to make wine.R Drink nowS 1996U New Zealand whitebaitX 3001Z 14/7/98a Waiheke Island Dog Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _6Goldwater Estate Dog Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Goldwater Estate $21-25 Marlborough 14/7/98 Martinborough VineyardP The combined efforts of Martinborough, Dry River and Ata Rangi leave the Martinborough/Wairarapa region without any serious challengers as New Zealand s best location for Pinot Chardonnay. This magnificent wine was not released until March 1997, having amassed a string of trophies and other accolades, including the Chairman s Trophy (in fact mine) at the 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition. They don t come much better than this from anywhere in the world. Up to 5 yearsS 1994U New Zealand venisonX 3002Z 14/7/98a Wairarapa Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _)Martinborough Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir Martinborough Vineyard $26-50 Wellington/Wairarapa 14/7/98 Villa MariaP 12.95Q Like many of the kaleidoscopic array of wines in the Villa Maria stable, prone to rise way above its station, as it did (spectacularly) at the 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition. R Now-2 years 1996U Creamed scallopsX 3006Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Private Bin Gisborne Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _+Villa Maria Private Bin Gisborne Chardonnay Villa Maria $11-15 Gisborne/Poverty Bay 14/7/98 Mount HorrocksP 19QxFirst produced in 1982. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the Sevenhill area and 25% Merlot from Watervale.R Now-5 yearsS Spring lambX 3008Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Mount Horrocks Cabernet Merlot Mount Horrocks $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Yarra BurnP 49.99 The Bastard Hill duo of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were launched in November 1996. The provocative and evocative name comes from the breathtakingly steep hillsides of the Hoddles Creek vineyard acquired by Hardys in 1993. According to the vineyard workers, the slopes are not only a bastard to walk up, but also a bastard to walk down. Much of the production goes to sparkling wine, but in excellent vintages such as 1994, limited quantities of high-quality table wine are produced. Five hunB dred cases made. R Drink nowS 1994U Game pieX 3012Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Bastard Hill Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _"Yarra Burn Bastard Hill Pinot Noir Yarra Burn $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 HardysP A new superbly packaged and presented premium range from Hardys, simultaneously replacing and upgrading the now discontinued Bankside range. Made from McLaren Vale shiraz, open-fermented and basket-pressed, it spends two years in a combination of French and American oak. Up to 7 yearsS 1994U Beef in black bean sauceX 3014Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Tintara Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Hardys Tintara Shiraz Hardys $21-25 McLaren Vale t late note 14/7/98 Cowra EstateP ]I am always uneasy about names such as this: did the Directors choose the wine in a blind tasting? Was it reserved for them? If so, why is it being sold? Still, it is better than the concept of the Personal Cellars of Ernest and Julio Gallo , cellars housing 80 million cases of wine or thereabouts. That said, this wine is a cut above the average. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Rack of vealX 3016Z 14/7/98a Cowra Directors Reserve Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _%Cowra Estate Directors Reserve Merlot Cowra Estate $11-15 Cowra 14/7/98 Briar RidgeP Part of the portfolio of wines which garnered Briar Ridge very significant show success in the various Hunter Valley wine shows held during 1996, contributing to the tally of one trophy, two gold, three silver and six bronze medals at the Hunter Valley Wine Show (a gold medal there) and to an even greater haul at the Hunter Valley Small Winemakers Show, where 20 out of 21 entries won medals. R 2-3 yearsS 1994U LambX 3018Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Briar Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Briar Ridge $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 ArenbergP Presumably the repository of the bits and pieces from the innumerable d Arenberg labels which do not quite make the grade. Sometimes predominantly Shiraz, at other times a blend of Shiraz and Grenache (in 1995 52% Shiraz, 48% Grenache) it can represent extraordinary value for money. 1995U BarbecueX 3024Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale M Red Ochre Shiraz Blends Z Australia Arenberg Red Ochre Arenberg e under $10 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 ArenbergP Produced from a single 1.5-hectare block of mourvedre (or mataro, as it used to be called in Australia) originally planted in the 1880s and replanted in the 1920s. Until 1995 the wine was simply blended in with other d Arenberg reds, but in that year (and 1996) the decision was taken to make and release it as a single varietal wine. Fashion trend it may be, but the wine has real intrinsic worth. For the record, it spent eight months in a mix of new and old French and American oak barriquesB 1996U Thick, rare rumpX 3025Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Twenty Eight Road N Mourvedre Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Arenberg Twenty Eight Road Mourvedre Arenberg $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 MaglieriP Produced from grapes grown by Maglieri at its Blewitt Springs vineyard, and which is one of the better examples from McLaren Vale, reflecting the overall high-level winemaking and production skills at Maglieri.R 2-3 yearsS 1996U Diced chickenX 3028Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Maglieri Semillon Maglieri $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Scarpantoni EstateP 10.5Q Produced from 2 hectares of estate-grown sauvignon blanc, and made without the use of oak (or oak chips). Good value at the price.R Drink nowS 1996U SashimiX 3029Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _"Scarpantoni Estate Sauvignon Blanc Scarpantoni Estate e under $10 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Scarpantoni EstateP Gamay (the grape of Beaujolais, France) is extremely rare in Australia; why more plantings have not been tried is something of a mystery. That mystery deepens when you strike a wine such as this, produced from 2 hectares owned by Scarpantoni.R Drink nowS 1996U Italian cuisineX 3030Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Gamay Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Scarpantoni Estate Gamay Scarpantoni Estate e under $10 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Scarpantoni EstateP A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Shiraz and 10% Merlot; the best of the Scarpantoni red wines, and this wine at least is unaffected by the shadow of the agglomerate corks often used by the winery.R Up to 5 yearsS 1994U Osso bucoX 3031Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale School Block Cabernet Blends Z Australia Scarpantoni Estate School Block Scarpantoni Estate $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 HaselgroveP zAn outstanding wine which puts the lie to the belief that unwooded Chardonnays are all inferior to wooded Chardonnays. This may usually be the case, but is most certainly not in this instance; this is a significantly better wine than the standard wooded version (Picture Label) from Haselgrove of the same year. It deservedly won a gold medal at the 1996 McLaren Vale Wine Show. Up to 3 yearsS Smoked trout risottoX 3033Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Haselgrove Unwooded Chardonnay Haselgrove $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 HaselgroveP 17.90QBA distinguished wine which thoroughly deserves its Reserve status.R 1-4 yearsS 1995U Avocado and prawn saladX 3034Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _!Haselgrove Reserve Chardonnay Haselgrove $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Scarpantoni EstateP PWhile not, perhaps, quite in the same league as the Haselgrove Unwooded Chardonnay of the same year, an excellent wine which underlines the capacity of McLaren Vale to produce seriously good Chardonnay. It comes from 2 hectares of estate plantings, and is a significantly better wine than the wooded versions to appear from Scarpantoni. R Drink nowS 1996U Smoked salmonX 3035Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _&Scarpantoni Estate Unwooded Chardonnay Scarpantoni Estate e under $10 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 TatachillaP 15QnProduced from a blend of McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills material, and given a relatively light touch of oak. R Short termS 1996U Sweet and sour porkX 3036Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Tatachilla Chardonnay Tatachilla $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Rosemount EstateP When Rosemount acquired the Ryecroft winery in 1991, Ryecroft had a brand simply called Traditional . Rosemount has continued using the name, applying it to, what in Bordeaux, France would be described as a traditional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot . As with the GSM, the percentage will vary from one year to the next, but is typically 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Likewise as with the GSM, the components are separately fermented and maturB0ed, blending taking place after oak maturation. 3-13 yearsS 1995U Char-grilled beefX 3039Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Traditional Cabernet Blends Z Australia Rosemount Estate Traditional Rosemount Estate (McLaren Vale) $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 N MerrivaleP Drawn primarily from the 4 hectares of estate plantings situated at Bakers Gully. The Tapestry label is used for the premium range drawn from individual vineyards throughout the foothills of the Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale. S 1995U LasagneX 3041Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Tapestry Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Merrivale Tapestry Shiraz Merrivale Wines $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 N MerrivaleP The recently introduced top-of-the-range wine, adding a third name to the labels (and perhaps to the confusion of simple-minded wine-writers). This is a selection of the very best fruit which has been matured in new oak, resulting in high-quality wine which has won many accolades. Was the top wine in the 1996 McLaren Vale Wine Show, winning the coveted Bushing King title for winemaker Brian Light. 1994U Leg of lambX 3042Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Brian Light Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _$Merrivale Brian Light Reserve Shiraz Merrivale Wines $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Chapel HillP 9Yet another outstanding red wine from Chapel Hill, utilising grapes grown at Bakers Gully (halfway up the Adelaide Hills escarpment), at Blewitt Springs, and at Chapel Hills home vineyard. The wine spent 15 months in American oak, 20% new, the remainder first and second use. As ever, made with a flawless touch. 1995U Grilled calf s liverX 3043Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Chapel Hill Shiraz Chapel Hill $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Chapel HillP 1A blend of 85% McLaren Vale and 15% Coonawarra grapes, the varietal mix being 56% Cabernet Sauvignon and 44% Shiraz. The wine spent 22 months in a mix of American and French oak. There are no prizes for guessing the inspiration for the name of the wine. Top 100 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition. 1994U Beef BordelaiseX 3044Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale M The Vicar Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia _%Chapel Hill The Vicar Cabernet Shiraz Chapel Hill $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 PirramimmaP Yet another wine attesting both to the strength of the raw material available to Pirramimma, and also to some very competent winemaking.S 1994U Rare roast beefX 3046Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon Pirramimma $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 N AllandaleP 14.50 Produced from grapes grown in the Hilltops region of New South Wales near Young. First made in 1995, with a follow-up in 1996. R Short termS 1996U Prosciutto and melonX 3048Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Hilltops Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Allandale Hilltops Riesling c Allandale $11-15 Hilltops 14/7/98 Barossa Valley EstateP The flagship of Barossa Valley Estate, made from grapes grown on a number of low-yielding vineyards from the northeastern corner of the unirrigated vineyards, planted on ironstone-laced soil over a limestone base, yields as little as 1 tonne per acre, and the grapes are hand-picked when very ripe. Notwithstanding the implication of the name, pepper and spice are not aromas or flavours to be found in this luscious, traditional Barossa style. 1994U Rich red meat dishesX 3053Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Plains E & E Black Pepper Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _/Barossa Valley Estate E & E Black Pepper Shiraz Barossa Valley Estate $26-50 ?? Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Bloodwood EstateP 8Bloodwood has always used its malbec to produce a Ros , with consistent and convincing results. Malbec tends to crop heavily, and while it has high colour potential, tends to be hollow on the mid to back palate when made as a varietal red wine. On the other hand, the juicy flavours are very well suited to Ros R Drink nowS 1996U Mediterranean eggplantX 3054Z 14/7/98a Orange Of Malbec Z Australia Bloodwood Estate Ros Of Malbec Bloodwood Estate $11-15 Orange 14/7/98 Bloodwood EstateP Usually made as a dry style, but occasionally (as in 1994) produces a spectacular late-harvest style the 94 was picked on 5 July in the wake of April frosts and winter snows, and was justifiably called Ice Riesling . However, the normal treatment is as in 1996. Up to 5 yearsS 1996U Grilled scallopsX 3055Z 14/7/98a Orange Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Bloodwood Estate Riesling Bloodwood Estate $11-15 Orange 14/7/98 Boynton s Of BrightP Cabernet sauvignon is the most widely planted variety on the estate, with 4 hectares under vine. It provides some of the richest of the Boynton reds.S 1994U Yearling beefX 3057Z 14/7/98a Ovens Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _&Boynton s Of Bright Cabernet Sauvignon Boynton's of Bright $11-15 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Boynton s Of BrightP Kel Boynton elects to keep his Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot separate, rather than blending the two together. The wine is produced from 1 hectare of estate plantings.S 1995U Vegetable terrineX 3058Z 14/7/98a Ovens Valley Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Boynton s Of Bright Merlot Boynton's of Bright $11-15 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Boynton s Of BrightP The front label of this wine says it all far more eloquently than I could, although, having made a Botrytis Chardonnay in 1995 myself, I wholly empathise. It says, Our noble wines are never much fun to make; thankfully they can only be made in really wet years when the fruit gets the noble rot or botrytis. I m never too sure about the noble bit. Harvest is by hand and is incredibly sticky. Fermentation never wants to stop and the wine never wants to clear. But hey! The results are great and well worth the effort. 1996U Fresh fruitX 3059Z 14/7/98a Ovens Valley Noble Chardonnay (375 ml) Sweet Sweet Z Australia _-Boynton s Of Bright Noble Chardonnay (375 ml) Boynton's of Bright $16-20 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 Broke EstateP A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc which, in appropriate years without too much rain, can produce good, sometimes very good, wine.S 1994U Smoked lambX 3060Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Limited Edition N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia _&Broke Estate Limited Edition Cabernets Broke Estate $21-25 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 BrokenwoodP 28.50 gThe evocative Graveyard name derives from the fact that the vineyard, situated to the south of the winery and acquired from Hungerford Hill in 1978, was once (in the 19th century) consecrated as a graveyard, though never used as such. It is the source of the far more famous Graveyard Shiraz, and also supplied limited quantities of high-quality chardonnay. R 2-3 yearsS 1995U Terrine of salmonX 2141Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley M Graveyard Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Brokenwood Graveyard Chardonnay Brokenwood $26-50 Lower Hunter Valley t late note 14/7/98 Capel ValeP 19.95Q}Sourced from the spread of Capel Vale s Western Australia vineyards, which spread inland to Mount Barker, and very well made.R Drink nowS 1996U ShellfishX 3061Z 14/7/98a Geographe Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Capel Vale Sauvignon Blanc Capel Vale $16-20 South-west Coastal Plain 14/7/98 Charles SturtP Produced from Charles Sturt s own vineyards surrounding the winery at Wagga Wagga. Barrel-fermented and matured in a mix of new and used French oak barriques for seven months. Outstanding value for money.R Drink nowS 1996U TurkeyX 3063Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of NSW Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Charles Sturt Chardonnay Charles Sturt University Winery $11-15 Hilltops 14/7/98 Clarendon HillsP First released in February 1996. A single-vineyard Shiraz, asking to be compared with the super Cuv es of Guigal of the Rh ne Valley. Many have been prepared to do so, and the asking price did not stop the wine selling like hot cakes.S 1995U Leave it in the cellarX 3064Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Astralis Shiraz Z Australia Clarendon Hills Astralis Clarendon Hills Winery McLaren Vale 14/7/98 CullenP Introduced in 1994, another glorious wine from Cullen. While priced at the level of the Reserve Cabernet Merlot, and of equivalent quality, is simply called Cabernet Sauvignon, for there will only be one release of it each vintage.S 1994U Barbecued lamb chopsX 3068Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon Cullen $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 DelatiteP In vintages such as 1994, marked by low yields and an excellent autumn, this wine comes to the fore, showing excellent cool-climate characteristics.S 1994U Peking duckX 3070Z 14/7/98a Central Victorian High Country Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Delatite Shiraz Delatite $21-25 King Valley/High Country 14/7/98 +N Drayton Another wine to score solidly at the 1996 Hunter Valley Wine Show, with plenty of varietal fruit flavour in that softer Hunter Valley style.R Drink nowS 1995U SweetbreadsX 3073Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Drayton s Chardonnay c Drayton $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Part of the hugely successful Italian range produced by Garry Crittenden, and a Ros by any other name. A blend of Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon which spent a brief time ageing in old oak barriques. Not a style which usually appeals to me, but this one did. R Drink nowS 1996U AnythingX 3074Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Garry Crittenden i Rosato Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Garry Crittenden i Rosato Dromana Estate $11-15 ??? MP or King Valley 14/7/98 Farrell s Limestone CreekP -QoA blend of 90% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc which performed creditably at the 1996 Hunter Valley Wine Show.S 1996U Balmain bugsX 3076Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _"Farrell s Limestone Creek Semillon Farrell s Limestone Creek $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 GilbertP 18QeAll the wines of Gilbert are made in tiny quantities, none more so than the Shiraz which is a pity.S 1994U Seared beefX 3077Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Gilbert Shiraz Gilbert $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 GlenaraP A wine which shows that Glenara is situated in the warmest part of the Adelaide Hills, and can achieve flavours not unlike those of the Barossa Valley with late-ripening varieties. S 1994U Duck casseroleX 3078Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Glenara Shiraz Glenara Wines $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 GralynP %Obviously enough, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz matured in predominantly new French and American oak barrels. Won a gold medal in Class 14 at the 1996 Perth Wine Show, remembering that these are open classes with the wine competing (incognito) against wines from all over Australia. 1995U Smoked lambX 3080Z 14/7/98a Margaret River Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Blends Z Australia Gralyn Cabernet Shiraz Gralyn Cellars $26-50 Margaret River 14/7/98 Hanging RockP Based on low-yielding shiraz grown predominantly in Central Victoria. Has not appeared every year, but at its best is a magnificent example of the style, as it was in 1994. S 1994U Marinated beefX 3082Z 14/7/98a Macedon Victoria Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Hanging Rock Victoria Shiraz Hanging Rock Winery $16-20 Macedon/Sunbury 14/7/98 HardysP RA new superbly packaged and presented premium range from Hardys, simultaneously replacing and upgrading the now discontinued Bankside range. Produced from unirrigated old vine McLaren Vale grenache, it spends 18 months in a mix of French and American oak, and is a powerful testament to the character and quality of McLaren Vale grenache. 1994U Very rich meat dishesX 3083Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Tintara Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Hardys Tintara Grenache Hardys $21-25 McLaren Vale t late note 14/7/98 Hungerford HillP LProduced, as the label indicates, from a blend of Young and Cowra Cabernet Sauvignon, emphasising the rapid spread of viticulture and the varietal choice from the inland regions of New South Wales. Matured in a mix of one- and two-year-old American oak hogsheads for 14 months, and has already proved its capacity to age with grace. 1994U Veal cutletsX 3085Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Young/Cowra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _.Hungerford Hill Young/Cowra Cabernet Sauvignon Hungerford Hill $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley t late note 14/7/98 Jane BrookP 16.50Q Made from grapes grown both at the home vineyards surrounding the winery in the Swan Valley and from grapes sourced in the foothills of the Darling Ranges (also known as the Perth Hills).R Drink nowS 1995U Fricasee of chickenX 3087Z 14/7/98a Swan District Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Jane Brook Chardonnay Jane Brook Estate $16-20 Swan Valley 14/7/98 JingallaP Produced from 1.5 hectares of low-yielding, dry-grown vines, and a selection of the best barrels, bottled after two years in wood. The remaining Shiraz is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon to produce Jingalla s Great Southern Red. S 1994U PastramiX 3088Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Jingalla Reserve Shiraz Jingalla $16-20 Great Southern t late note 14/7/98 HoughtonP 10.95Q Cheaper version of the very good Gold Reserve, and sourced from what is described as the cool southern regions of Western Australia, no doubt meaning Margaret River, Great Southern and Pemberton. Very often outstanding value.S 1994U Rack of lambX 3089Z 14/7/98a Swan District Red Stripe Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _&Houghton Red Stripe Cabernet Sauvignon Houghton e under $10 Swan Valley 14/7/98 KominosP SShiraz is arguably the best variety grown in the Granite Belt region, almost always producing wines with attractive spicy varietal character. It forms a significant part of the 10-hectare Kominos estate vineyards, and the 94 vintage won a silver medal at the Brisbane show competing in open classes against wines from all over Australia. 1994U Smoked emuX 3090Z 14/7/98a Granite Belt Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Kominos Shiraz Kominos $11-15 Granite Belt 14/7/98 Laurel BankP 19.50Q Like the Pinot Noir, produced from half a hectare of estate plantings. The 1992 and 1993 wines are of contrasting style, the 93 more powerful and extractive, the 92 more elegant. By a whisker, I preferred the 1993U Rack of vealX 3092Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Laurel Bank Cabernet Merlot Laurel Bank $16-20 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Leo BuringP 10.95Q Sourced from a range of vineyards in the Clare Valley, and extremely well priced. It was undoubtedly lucky at the Brisbane Wine Show in 1996 where it won a gold medal, but is still a good wine at the price.S 1996U Char-grilled octopusX 3094Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Clare Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _ Leo Buring Clare Valley Riesling Leo Buring e under $10 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Lawson HillP There is only one place in Australia which could produce a Merlot with such amazing depth of colour and concentration of flavour, and that is Mudgee. It is true that it is not particularly varietal, but there is so much else happening in the wine, few will be critical. 1994U Char-grilled steakX 3095Z 14/7/98 Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Lawson Hill Merlot Lawson Hill $16-20 Mudgee 14/7/98 MintaroP 20QnAnother wine in the no-holds-barred Mintaro red wine style, but extremely impressive in the heavyweight class.S 1995U Leave it in the cellarX 3098Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Mintaro Shiraz Mintaro Wines $16-20 Clare Valley 14/7/98 OakridgeP A wine which deserves its Reserve tag, and which is a marvellous achievement for a difficult Yarra Valley vintage. The wine was barrel-fermented and matured in 100% new French oak, but the rich fruit (13.5 degrees) has swallowed up that oak.S 1995U Scallops or fish in white sauceX 3104Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Oakridge Reserve Chardonnay Oakridge Estate $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 OakvaleP By and large, I prefer the unwooded wines from Oakvale to the wooded wines, and in the case of the Chardonnays, prefer the younger to the older wines. However, this unwooded Semillon, which won a bronze medal at the 1996 Hunter Valley Wine Show, doubtless has the capacity to age. 1996U Grilled fishX 3106Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Peach Tree Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Oakvale Peach Tree Semillon Oakvale $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Passing CloudsP The blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon was first made in 1980. There has been some confusion (principally in my mind) about the origin of the name; it is in fact Graeme Leith's blend, and no one else s. S! 1994U Yearling steak or vealX 3107Z 14/7/98a Bendigo Graeme s Blend Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Blends Z Australia _-Passing Clouds Graeme s Blend Shiraz Cabernet Passing Clouds $16-20 Bendigo 14/7/98 Pepper TreeP A classic Hunter Semillon, made in a direct, unwooded style, and which won a strong bronze medal in the highly competitive 1996 Hunter Valley Wine Show.S 1996U Hawkesbury River oystersX 3110Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Reserve Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Pepper Tree Reserve Semillon Pepper Tree $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 @N PetersonsP cAn immensely distinguished wine in terms of its history, the 85 vintage winning its class in the famous (or infamous) Qantas Cup held in the Hunter Valley in 1987, involving a head-to-head challenge between Australia and California. That 85 is still drinking well, incidentally, as was the 91 entered in the museum class at the 1996 Hunter Valley Show. 1996U Yamba prawnsX 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Petersons Semillon c Petersons $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Red Hill EstateP A most interesting wine which has received considerable effort and attention from Red Hill Estate over the years. While non-vintage, this particular wine was tasted in October 1996, and one might guess that the base wine was predominantly from 1994 and/or 1995. R Drink nowS Aperitif or light seafoodX 3114Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Sparkling Pinot X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Red Hill Estate Sparkling Pinot Red Hill Estate $26-50 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Saddlers CreekP 22.95Q The top-end of the Saddlers Creek range, with all of the rich fruit one expects from good Hunter Chardonnay, allied with some good French oak.R Drink nowS 1995U Loin of porkX 3117Z 14/7/98 Lower Hunter Valley Marrowbone Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _$Saddlers Creek Marrowbone Chardonnay Saddlers Creek $21-25 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 SaltramP 20QGAnother in the Barossa Reserve quartet, fashioned in a generous mould. S 1994U Lamb shanksX 3119Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Barossa Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Saltram Barossa Reserve Shiraz Saltram $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Scotchmans HillP 18.5QwLike all of the Scotchmans Hill wines, estate-grown, made in a direct, unwooded-style, with particular success in 1996.R Drink nowS 1996U Blue swimmer crabX 3120Z 14/7/98a Geelong Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Scotchmans Hill Sauvignon Blanc Scotchmans Hill $16-20 Geelong 14/7/98 Scotchmans HillP 19.95 Estate-grown; the 1995 vintage was not an easy one, and the apricot characters running through the wine are no doubt a product of the vintage (rather than anything happening in the winery).R Drink nowS 1995U Sweet and sour porkX 3121Z 14/7/98a Geelong Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Scotchmans Hill Chardonnay Scotchmans Hill $16-20 Geelong 14/7/98 Scotchmans HillP 19.95Q Estate-grown; the most distinguished of the Scotchmans Hill wines in most vintages, but the southern-most parts of Victoria did not have an easy time of it in 1995 or 1996, with very cool summers. R Drink nowS 1995U SquabX 3122Z 14/7/98a Geelong Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Scotchmans Hill Pinot Noir Scotchmans Hill $16-20 Geelong 14/7/98 s RidgeP Not for the first time, Tuck s Ridge produced a striking Semillon in 1996. The Mornington Peninsula must be one of the most difficult places in Australia in which to ripen Semillon, and the style of the wine certainly reflects the climate but is positively bursting with character. R Drink nowS 1996U Lime-marinated seafoodX 3127Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Semillon White Semillon Z Australia s Ridge Semillon Tuck's Ridge $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 s RidgeP 18QjA wine which reflects a very late, cool and wet vintage, but which has some really interesting characters.R Drink nowS 1995U Thai cuisineX 3128Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia s Ridge Chardonnay Tuck's Ridge $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 IN Tyrrell Not to be confused, though it inevitably is, with Lindemans Steven Shiraz. The obvious scope for confusion with the names is exacerbated by the fact that for many years Lindemans purchased the grapes from the Stevens Vineyard, and it was not until the first half of the 1990s that Tyrrell s took the grapes. What was Lindemans loss was undoubtedly Tyrrell s gain, for this is a first-class vineyard, and in 1994 produced what must surely be one of the most interesting Shirazes to come out of B the Hunter Valley in the last 20 years, looking for all the world like a very cool-grown Shiraz from central or southern Victoria. A gold medal winner, which I have tasted on five occasions in 1996 with consistent notes. 1994U Moroccan lambX 3130Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Stevens Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Tyrrell s Stevens Shiraz c Tyrrell $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Wandin ValleyP A most interesting blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot and Ruby Cabernet, not normally the stuff of which dreams are made, but which scored a richly deserved gold medal at the 1996 Hunter Valley Wine Show, and is a testament to the winemaking skills of Geoff Broadfield. 1995U Beef sirloinX 3131Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Pavilion Dry Red Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Wandin Valley Pavilion Dry Red Wandin Valley Estate $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 WignallsP This is the first Wignalls Cabernet Sauvignon I can remember tasting, and came as a major surprise. So, I should add, did a Pinot Cabernet-blend from 1994, a wine which defies all of the rules but which actually works surprisingly well.S 1994U Seared lambX 3133Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Wignalls Cabernet Sauvignon Wignalls Wines $21-25 Great Southern 14/7/98 Wolf BlassP In his days at the helm, Wolf Blass did not jump on bandwagons, but built and started them. One way or another, it was inevitable that the company which bears his name should jump on the Grenache Shiraz gravy train, and do so pretty well.R Drink nowS 1996U Italian, brasserie foodX 3134Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Grenache Shiraz Shiraz Blends Z Australia Wolf Blass Grenache Shiraz Wolf Blass $11-15 17.01 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Yarra RidgeP 4Many observers believe that merlot (rather than cabernet sauvignon) will be the Bordeaux grape most suited to many of the newer sites in the Yarra Valley, and certainly to the less-warm sites. This lovely wine, which won a gold medal and trophy at the Adelaide Wine Show in 1996, gives credence to that view. 1995U Rack of vealX 3138Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Yarra Ridge Merlot Yarra Ridge $16-20 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Mount AvocaP Produced from 5 hectares of existing plantings, with further vineyard area to come on stream in future vintages. Is always made in a concentrated style, and has from time to time been quite outstanding.R 2-3 yearsS 1996U Blanquette of vealX 14/7/98` Pyreneesb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Mount Avoca Sauvignon Blanc Mount Avoca Vineyard $11-15 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Mount AvocaP Produced from a little over 6 hectares of relatively low-yielding estate plantings. The style has varied over the years; the 1993 vintage was a relatively cool one, producing quite intense spicy/peppery characters. Matured in new French oak for 18 months.R 3-5 yearsS Marinated beefX 2211Z 14/7/98a Pyrenees Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Mount Avoca Shiraz Mount Avoca Vineyard $11-15 Pyrenees 14/7/98 Bridgewater MillP 32.5Q Produced from chardonnay grown in the Adelaide Hills and in the Clare Valley, barrel-fermented in French oak barriques of unspecified age, but fairly evidently, not new. A pleasant, simple and direct style.S 1995U WhitingX 3139Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Bridgewater Mill Chardonnay Bridgewater Mill $26-50 Adelaide Hills t late note 14/7/98 Bridgewater MillP 18.5Q Made from shiraz grown in McLaren Vale and at Langhorne Creek, said to be from low-cropping vines; I am not quite certain what low-cropping means in the context of Langhorne Creek, however. The wine is matured in French oak barriques for one year.S 1994U Lamb shanksX 3140Z 14/7/98 Adelaide Hills M Millstone Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _!Bridgewater Mill Millstone Shiraz Bridgewater Mill $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Kingston EstateP 9.95Q The second release of this wine, which is a blend of 60% Semillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. Cold fermented in stainless steel, with the semillon given extended skin contact, the wine has no oak.R Drink nowS 1996U CalamariX 3142Z 14/7/98a Riverland Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _(Kingston Estate Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Kingston Estate e under $10 Murray Valley 14/7/98 KnappsteinP FA new addition to the Knappstein range, and a most interesting one. Almost all the full-bodied Shiraz wines from the Clare Valley are hidden in swathes of American oak (Wendouree being a most honourable exception). Here is a wine with all of the voluptuous fruit one could wish for, and in which oak plays only a support role. 1994U Beef WellingtonX 3143Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Enterprise Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _$Knappstein Enterprise Reserve Shiraz Knappstein Wines $21-25 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Paradise EnoughP An interesting wine made, so we are informed, without filtration or chemical clarification, and fully grown, made and bottled at Paradise Enough. R Drink nowS 1995U Pork spare ribsX 3144Z 14/7/98a Gippsland Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"Paradise Enough Reserve Chardonnay Paradise Enough $21-25 r Gippsland 14/7/98 RockfordP Only Rocky O Callaghan could possibly make a wine like this, sourced from two high and remote old vineyards in the Eden Valley which are late-picked. Starting with that raw material, O Callaghan then gives the juice skin contact, pushing it in a direction diametrically opposed to that of most Australian Riesling-makers. It all works very well if you like full-flavoured wines, and that is precisely the maker s aim. 1996U KasslarX 3145Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Eden Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Rockford Eden Valley Riesling Rockford e under $10 Eden Valley 14/7/98 RockfordP One of the (many) cult wines from Rockford, and always limited to six bottles per customer. A traditional Barossa-style, as honest and generous as the day is long.S 1994U Smoked beefX 3146Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Basket Press Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Rockford Basket Press Shiraz Rockford $21-25 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Highland HeritageP Produced from 1 hectare of estate plantings, and underlines the suitability of the Orange district for the variety. Mount Canobolas, incidentally, should not be confused with Canobolas-Smith.S 1995U Loin of porkX 3150Z 14/7/98a Orange Mount Canobolas Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _,Highland Heritage Mount Canobolas Chardonnay Highland Heritage Estate $16-20 Orange 14/7/98 Jackson s HillP Jackson s Hill is the only winery I know of in Australasia to have chosen cabernet franc as its sole red grape (and hence wine). This wine is produced from 1.5 hectares of estate plantings (Jackson s Hill also has 1 hectare of semillon). S 1995U Smoked lambX 3151Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Cabernet Franc Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Jackson s Hill Cabernet Franc Jackson's Hill $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Jane BrookP 17.5Q Made from 3 hectares of fully mature vines planted adjacent to the winery, the wine is matured in a mix of French and American oak.S 1995U OxtailX 3152Z 14/7/98a Swan District Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Jane Brook Shiraz Jane Brook Estate $16-20 Swan Valley 14/7/98 JenkeP GIf you are looking for a Chardonnay to drink with Dolly Parton, this is it. It has 15 degrees alcohol, is barrel-fermented and matured on lees for seven months. As winemaker Kym Jenke truly says, it is like one of my reds, big fruit with plenty of alcohol . Not normally a style which appeals to me, but this one really works. R Drink nowS 1995U Sweet and sour porkX 3153Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Jenke Chardonnay Jenke Vineyards $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 KoppamurraP Produced from 1.5 hectares of estate plantings, and full of engaging, if slightly erratic, personality. As with all the Koppamurra wines, one can hardly complain at the price.S 1996U Chinese prawnsX 3154Z 14/7/98a Koppamurra Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Koppamurra Riesling Koppamurra e under $10 Limestone Coast 14/7/98 Lenswood VineyardsP qOnly a side-line for Lenswood Vineyards, coming from 1.2 hectares of cabernet sauvignon, 0.8 hectares of merlot and 0.4 hectares of malbec less than 10% of the total plantings. Nonetheless, confirms what Henschke s Abbott s Prayer has already suggested given appropriate vintage conditions, this part of the Adelaide Hills can produce very good Bordeaux-style wine. 1994U Braised duckX 3155Z 14/7/98 Adelaide Hills N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Lenswood Vineyards Cabernets Lenswood Vineyards $26-50 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 MorrisP 13.95QxRutherglen is Kelly country, but it is also big red wine country. And what Baileys can do, so can Morris, it would seem.S 1994U Haunch of beefX 3160Z 14/7/98a Rutherglen Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Morris Shiraz Morris $11-15 North-eastern Victoria 14/7/98 Ashton HillsP First made in 1992; the 94 is a blend of 75% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir which was bottle-fermented and spent almost two years on yeast lees. The Pinot Noir base wine was obviously strongly coloured, and makes a significant contribution to all aspects of the wine. R Drink nowS 1994U Hors d oeuvresX 3162Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Hills Salmon X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Ashton Hills Salmon Brut Ashton Hills $16-20 Adelaide Hills 14/7/98 Barossa Valley EstateP ,The wine comes from two vineyard estates, both of which are regarded as outstanding, one with very old vines, the other with newer plantings. This wine, recently joined by E & E Black Pepper Sparkling Shiraz, is the flagship of Barossa Valley Estate, and is in keen demand notwithstanding its price. 5 years or moreS 1994U Lamb, rabbit or hareX 14/7/98a Adelaide Plains Ebenezer Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia _%Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Shiraz Barossa Valley Estate $26-50 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Brand s LairaP 12.95 #Just when one makes up one s mind that growing riesling in Coonawarra is a capital offence, or at the very least a terrible waste of rare and finite resource (Coonawarra terra rossa), a wine such as this comes along to confound you. The yet-to-be-released 97 does not show the same quality. 1996U Caesar saladX 3163Z 14/7/98a Coonawarra Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Brand s Laira Riesling Brand s Laira $11-15 Coonawarra 14/7/98 aN CraigmoorP 12.5QYAn interesting wine, if only because it is so similar to premium quality Hunter Semillon.S 1996U AntipastoX 3165Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Craigmoor Semillon c Craigmoor $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 Doonkuna EstateP Very well made, and without the errant characters of the 96 Riesling from Doonkuna. Estate-grown, and produced without the use of oak.R Drink nowS Snowy Mountains troutX 3166Z 14/7/98a Canberra District Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Doonkuna Estate Sauvignon Blanc Doonkuna Estate $16-20 Canberra District 14/7/98 Duncan EstateP Produced from a little over half a hectare of estate plantings, and hence in very restricted quantities. Barrel-fermented in French oak, and has abundant character.S 1996U Corn-fed chickenX 3167Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Duncan Estate Chardonnay Duncan Estate $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Reynolds YarramanP The grapes for this wine are sourced primarily from the estate Yarraman Vineyard in the Upper Hunter Valley, supplemented with grapes from other small vineyards in the district. Picked ripe (13 degrees) and taken through malolactic fermentation, but given only the barest touch of oak. 1996U Seafood, light pastaX 3168Z 14/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _*Reynolds Yarraman Hunter Valley Chardonnay Reynolds Yarraman $16-20 Upper Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Stoney VineyardP 1The core of this wine comes from a small planting of 25-year-old cabernet sauvignon planted by Stoney Vineyard s founder George Park in the early 1970s. The wine is given extended maturation in new French oak barriques and is, without question, the best wine to be produced each year from Stoney Vineyard. 1994U Tasmanian venisonX 3170Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania M Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _,Stoney Vineyard Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon Stoney Vineyard $26-50 East Coast Tasmania 14/7/98 fN St Mary A clean, well-made wine which nonetheless raises the question whether it is more sensible to grow and make Cabernet Sauvignon in Coonawarra than Riesling.S 1995U Seafood saladX 3171Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA Riesling White Riesling Z Australia St Mary s Riesling c St Mary's $11-15 Coonawarra 14/7/98 Andrew HarrisP Drawn from a little over 20 hectares of estate plantings; the oak handling is less flamboyant and opulent than in the Reserve range, but is certainly ample. S 1995U Fillet of porkX 3174Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Premium Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Andrew Harris Premium Chardonnay Andrew Harris Vineyards $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 Andrew HarrisP Produced from 20 hectares of estate plantings; as with the Chardonnay, the oak handling is less pronounced than in the Reserve range, but here the choice is less clear-cut. Both styles will have their proponents. The Premium wine is matured in a mix of used French and American oak. 1995U Illabo lambX 3175Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Premium Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _(Andrew Harris Premium Cabernet Sauvignon Andrew Harris Vineyards $11-15 Mudgee 14/7/98 Andrew HarrisP As with the Premium Cabernet Sauvignon, made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon coming from the 20 hectares of estate plantings of this variety. Matured in a mix of new French and American oak, and a gold medal winner at the 1995 Adelaide Wine Show.S 1994U Porterhouse steakX 3176Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _(Andrew Harris Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Andrew Harris Vineyards $21-25 Mudgee 14/7/98 Cape JaffaP The sole wine to so far come from the Cape Jaffa vineyards; given the youth of the vines, it augurs well for the future. The climate is described by Derek Hooper as being Coonawarra by the sea , with 4 C less variation of temperature in the growing season. Four and a half hectares of cabernet sauvignon have so far been planted; so far the other Bordeaux varieties (accounting for 3.5 hectares) are still coming into production. 1995U Yearling beefX 3177Z 14/7/98a Mount Benson and Robe Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia Cape Jaffa Cabernet Sauvignon Cape Jaffa Wines $16-20 Mount Benson 14/7/98 HollyclareP Produced from the Gate and Gully Blocks at Hollyclare. Both a wooded and unwooded Chardonnay are produced from the 1.9 hectares; as the label correctly asserts, the wooded version is only lightly oaked.S 1996U ed vealX 3179Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Hollyclare Chardonnay Hollyclare $11-15 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Mariners RestP 18.5Q A rich, generous bottle-developed wine which in fact predates the establishment of the Mariners Rest label, harking back to the days of Golden Rise.S 1994U PastaX 3182Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Mariners Rest Chardonnay Mariners Rest $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Mariners RestP 17.5Q Another excellent wine under the Mariners Rest label from the 1994 vintage, which won silver medals at both the 1995 and 1996 Mount Barker Wine Shows. S 1994U Braised duckX 3183Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Mariners Rest Pinot Noir Mariners Rest $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 Mount BeckworthP Made from half a hectare of estate plantings, and a winner of medals at both the Ballarat and Victorian Wine Shows, and Seymour (a silver medal).S 1995U Marinated beefX 3185Z 14/7/98a Ballarat Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Mount Beckworth Shiraz Mount Beckworth $11-15 Ballarat 14/7/98 Mount BeckworthP A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot roughly corresponding to the plantings of 1 hectare of cabernet and half a hectare of merlot. Like the Shiraz, a consistent medal winner at Victorian wine shows.S 1995U Gippsland blue cheeseX 3186Z 14/7/98a Ballarat N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Mount Beckworth Cabernets Mount Beckworth $11-15 Ballarat 14/7/98 Reg DraytonP Produced from 5 hectares of estate plantings on the Pokolbin Hills vineyard, and matured in a mix of new (30%) and predominantly one-year-old American oak barrels. Yet another consistent show medal winner.S 1995U Roast lambX 3191Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Ivanhoe Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Reg Drayton Ivanhoe Shiraz Reg Drayton Wines $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 RimfireP Sourced entirely from estate-grown grapes, and a blend of Verdelho with a lesser proportion of Chardonnay. Partially barrel-fermented in older French oak, and once again well made. Quite why it should be the most expensive white wine in the range is not easy to see. 1996U Moreton Bay bugsX 3193Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of Qld Family Reserve Verdelho Chardonnay White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _*Rimfire Family Reserve Verdelho Chardonnay Rimfire Vineyards $16-20 Queensland Zone 14/7/98 RimfireP PRimfire utilises both estate-grown grapes and grapes purchased throughout the southeast Queensland region, notably the Granite Belt. An extremely well-made wine, part cold-fermented in stainless steel and a portion barrel-fermented in a mix of French and American oak, the latter given additional time on lees before being back-blended. 1996U Chinese-style prawn dishesX 3194Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of Qld Reserve Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia Rimfire Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Rimfire Vineyards $11-15 Queensland Zone 14/7/98 RimfireP 95 vintage of this wine was a multiple trophy winner (Sheraton/Courier-Mail and two trophies at the 1996 Australian Small Winemakers Competition), and made from shiraz grown, one assumes, both in Queensland and elsewhere. As with all of the Rimfire wines, impressively put together. 1995U Angus beefX 3195Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of Qld Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Rimfire Shiraz Rimfire Vineyards $11-15 Queensland Zone 14/7/98 Violet CaneP Produced from 1 hectare of estate merlot grown on two planting densities and trellises: the first on 1.8-metre row spacing with 1 metre between vines (high density) and the second on a one by one spacing and a very low trellis. The latter is the traditional spacing of Bordeaux and Burgundy and is the highest density planting of merlot in Australia. The wine was matured in new American oak. 1995U Char-grilled kangarooX 3196Z 14/7/98 Granite Belt Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Violet Cane Merlot Violet Cane Vineyard $21-25 Granite Belt 14/7/98 Daniel SchusterP 19.95Q Produced from a mix of estate-grown and contract-grown grapes from the greater Canterbury region, and made in a fresh, delicate early-drinking style.S 1996U Grilled salmonX 3197Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Canterbury Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _%Daniel Schuster Canterbury Pinot Noir Daniel Schuster $16-20 Canterbury 14/7/98 Omihi HillsP 1995 marked the first single-vineyard, estate-grown vintage from Omihi Hills, due for release in November 1997. An intriguing wine tasted not long after it was bottled, and will undoubtedly settle down before release.S 1995U VenisonX 3198Z 14/7/98 Waipara Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir New Zealand _&Omihi Hills Waipara Reserve Pinot Noir Omihi Hills $26-50 Canterbury 14/7/98 Kumeu RiverP Effectively the third tier of Chardonnay, ranked after Mat Vineyard and Kumeu Chardonnay, made with the same philosophy, but without new oak.S 1995U Corn-fed chickenX 3199Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Brajkovich Signature Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _+Kumeu River Brajkovich Signature Chardonnay Kumeu River Wines $16-20 Auckland Area 14/7/98 MontanaP 16.95 3Another wine which shows the ever-growing sophistication of the Montana winemaking techniques. The grapes are crushed and then given several hours skin contact before pressing; one-third of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation, while a small portion was barrel-fermented. Excellent value at the price. 1996U White-fleshed fishX 3202Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Gisborne Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Montana Gisborne Chardonnay Montana Wines $16-20 Gisborne 14/7/98 Morton EstateP Picked over a two-week period from the end of March to mid-April, the spread of picking intended to capture the widest possible range of flavours. Cold fermented in stainless steel and bottle fresh.R Drink nowS 1996U GravlaxX 3203Z 10/7/98a Waikato and Bay of Plenty White Label Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _5Morton Estate White Label Hawke s Bay Sauvignon Blanc Morton Estate Hawke s Bay 10/7/98 Morton EstateP Produced from merlot coming from the lowest-yielding section of Morton Estate s Riverview Vineyard, and matured for 15 months in French oak barriques.S 1995U Yearling beefX 3204Z 10/7/98a Waikato and Bay of Plenty Black Label Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends New Zealand _ Morton Estate Black Label Merlot Morton Estate Hawke s Bay 10/7/98 Selaks Drylands EstateP 14.95Q A blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Semillon, partly barrel-fermented and partly fermented in stainless steel, and given some oak maturation. A very complex wine, which happily remains fruit, rather than oak-driven.S 1995U Sugar-cured tunaX 3205Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Semillon White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand _;Selaks Drylands Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Selaks Drylands Estate Winery $11-15 Marlborough 14/7/98 CassegrainP 27.95Q Part of the Hastings Valley Reserve range of Cassegrain, only produced in better vintages, and coming from selected vineyards throughout the Hastings River region. The wine spends 15 months in barriques of unspecified age and type. S Lamb shanksX 3208Z 14/7/98a Hastings River Reserve Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia _"Cassegrain Reserve Cabernet Merlot Cassegrain $26-50 Hastings Valley 14/7/98 TatachillaP XPerversely bottled in a pale green claret-shaped bottle, but shows the difference between McLaren Vale proper and the Clarendon area halfway up the escarpment of the Adelaide Hills. Riesling in McLaren Vale is a hit-and-miss affair, missing more often than hitting, and tending to be rather heavy. No such accusation could be made of this wine. 1996U Caesar saladX 3211Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Clarendon Vineyard Riesling White Riesling Z Australia _&Tatachilla Clarendon Vineyard Riesling Tatachilla $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 De BortoliP In the manner of Socrates dissatisfied, Stephen Webber has until recently pronounced himself unhappy with the De Bortoli Pinot Noirs. However, the 95 won the prestigious Wine Press Club trophy for Best Mature Pinot Noir at the National Wine Show, and both the 96 and 97 wines are better than the 95. Partial cold maceration prior to fermentation, and partial barrel fermentation in 100% French oak are key techniques which have led to the improvement in style. 1996U Duck casseroleX 3212Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia _"De Bortoli Yarra Valley Pinot Noir De Bortoli (Victoria) $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 De Bortoli (Victoria) Sterling HeightsP 17QOA complex wine which was a bronze medal winner at the 1997 Tasmanian Wine Show.S 1995U SweetbreadsX 3213Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Sterling Heights Chardonnay Sterling Heights $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Iron Pot BayP 1Another (so far) unique blend for Iron Pot Bay, however common it may be on the Australian mainland. Ripening semillon is no easy task in Tasmania, but the immaculate viticulture at Iron Pot Bay is equal to the task. The 96 won the trophy for the Best Unwooded White Wine at the 1997 Tasmanian Wine Show. 1996U Fresh asparagusX 3215Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _%Iron Pot Bay Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Iron Pot Bay Wines $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Moorilla EstateP Over the years Moorilla Estate has produced some quite exhilarating Botrytis Rieslings, always in tiny quantities, and available only from the cellar door or by mail order, released in 375 ml bottles. These wines are great when young, but even better with bottle age. 1996U Poached fruitX 3216Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania Botrytis Riesling (375 ml) Sweet Sweet Z Australia _*Moorilla Estate Botrytis Riesling (375 ml) Moorilla Estate $21-25 Southern Tasmania 14/7/98 Notley GorgeP 19.5Q Produced from 3 hectares of estate plantings; the 93 was a gold medal winner, but the 95 is even better, winning the trophy for Best Light to Medium Bodied Red Wine at the 1997 Tasmanian Wine Show.S 1995U Duck casseroleX 3217Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Notley Gorge Pinot Noir Notley Gorge $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Sterling HeightsP A wine which shows excellent fruit character, even if a little straightforward in terms of structure. The 95 vintage, incidentally, was not a success, and certainly not in the class of the 1994U KangarooX 3218Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Sterling Heights Pinot Noir Sterling Heights $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Lake BarringtonP Like the excellent M thode Champenoise from Lake Barrington, made in tiny quantities, but the site climate of Lake Barrington, softened by the waters of the adjacent lake from which it takes its name, is well suited to the production of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. R Drink nowS 1995U Prosciutto, pastramiX 3219Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Lake Barrington Pinot Noir Lake Barrington Estate $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 RochecombeP 19.95 In 1995 produced in both wooded and unwooded form; one suspects this was a response to the vintage, for the unwooded version is very light and lacking concentration, and presumably the best material was used to produce the conventional (i.e. wooded) version. 1995U Ragout of venisonX 3220Z 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Rochecombe Pinot Noir Rochecombe Vineyard $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 Rochecombe Vineyard [3.5wine glasses] 1997 Medium red-purple; both the bouquet and palate show distinctly Burgundian characters in a slightly vegetal/spicy mould which you would expect with a five-year-old wine. Intriguing and flavoursome, but not to be cellared under any circumstances. RATING: 82 @BM bold:XXXx 1997 <f"Bembo">Medium red-purple; both the bouquet and palate show distinctly Burgundian characters in a slightly vegetal/spicy mould which you would expect with a five-year-old wine. Intriguing and flavoursome, but not to be cellared under any circumstances.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">82 Trentham EstateP Taminga is a grape variety which was bred by the CSIRO by crossing traminer with a sultana cross with an extraordinarily obscure variety, planta pedralba. Although high-yielding, it has consistently performed well in the production of botrytised, late-harvest styles. R Drink nowS 1996U Fruit flanX 3222Z 14/7/98a Murray Darling and Swan Hill Noble Taminga Sweet Sweet Z Australia Trentham Estate Noble Taminga Trentham Estate e under $10 Murray/Sunraysia 14/7/98 Peter LehmannP Peter Lehmann has joined the ever-swelling band of grape growers producing Grenache, and doing particularly well with the first release under his label.S 1996U Italian cuisineX 3223Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Peter Lehmann Grenache Peter Lehmann $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Yarra BurnP 49.99 The Bastard Hill duo of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were launched in November 1996. The provocative and evocative name comes from the breathtakingly steep hillsides of the Hoddles Creek vineyard acquired by Hardys in 1993. According to the vineyard workers, the slopes are not only a bastard to walk up, but also a bastard to walk down. The 95 was a gold medal winner at the 1996 Sydney Wine Show. 1995U Richly sauced fishX 3224Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley Bastard Hill Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _"Yarra Burn Bastard Hill Chardonnay Yarra Burn $26-50 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Barossa Valley EstateP As with all of the Ebenezer range, opulently oaked, but very successfully so, with the 1996 vintage a gold medal winner at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show in strong class of wines.R Drink nowS 1996U GnocchiX 3225Z 14/7/98a Adelaide Plains Ebenezer Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _)Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Chardonnay Barossa Valley Estate $16-20 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Andrew HarrisP Produced from 20 hectares of estate plantings; as with all of the Andrew Harris wines, very much a selection of the best. Barrel-fermented in a mixture of new and used French oak, and yet another highly pointed wine from the 1997 Sydney Wine Show.S 1995U Roast porkX 3226Z 14/7/98a Mudgee Reserve Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _ Andrew Harris Reserve Chardonnay Andrew Harris Vineyards $21-25 Mudgee 14/7/98 OrlandoP Orlando RF Chardonnay (the RF stands for Roland Flat, the site of the Orlando winery in the Barossa Valley) was one of the first large-volume, low-priced Chardonnays to be marketed in Australia in the 1980s. For a while it was also the quality leader, and the resurgence in the quality of the 1996 vintage (top gold medal winner in the 60-strong Class 26 Light to Medium-Bodied Premium White at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show), while a stunning victory, also had an element of nostalgia. 1996U CalamariX 3227Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Orlando RF Chardonnay Orlando e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Wolf BlassP Now made at Wolf Blass by Wendy Stuckey, and uses grapes grown in various parts of southeast Australia. In 1996 produced an outstanding wine, a gold medal winner at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show. 1996U Terrine of scallopsX 3229Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley M Eaglehawk Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Wolf Blass Eaglehawk Riesling Wolf Blass e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Osborns HarwoodP Produced from 2.3 hectares of chardonnay situated on the north-facing slope of a small valley in the warmer part of the Mornington Peninsula. The wine style is absolutely in the mainstream of Mornington Peninsula style, with the hallmark malolactic influence. 1995U ed scallopsX 3330Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Osborns Harwood Chardonnay Osborns Harwood Vineyard $16-20 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Maritime EstateP Made in both wooded and unwooded versions. This wine, barrel-fermented in French oak, won a silver medal at the 1996 Melbourne Wine Show and the gold medal at the 1996 French Chamber of Commerce Concours des Vin du Victoria the latter a very significant award. It, together with the Unwooded Chardonnay, is produced from 1 hectare of vines established in 1988; a further 0.8 hectares of chardonnay was planted in 1995. 1995U Grilled spatchcockX 3332Z 14/7/98a Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Maritime Estate Chardonnay Maritime Estate $21-25 Mornington Peninsula 14/7/98 Barrington EstateP The names of the first two wines released bear witness to part of the reasons for the Penfolds demise: apart from the lack of irrigation, many of the varieties were planted on the wrong soils. Part of the vineyard rationalisation have seen white varieties, and in particular chardonnay, established on the black clay river flats, and the red varieties on the more sandy soils of the hillsides. For the time being, the wines are being made at Rosemount Estate (to which most of the grapes are beB,ing sold) under the direction of David Lowe. 1996U Stuffed spatchcockX 3334Z 14/7/98a Upper Hunter Valley Yarraman Road Black Clay Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _5Barrington Estate Yarraman Road Black Clay Chardonnay Barrington Estate $21-25 Upper Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Dowie DooleP Produced from a blend of 76% Semillon and 24% Sauvignon Blanc, both grown on the 25-hectare California Road vineyard owned by Norm Doole. The grapes were night-harvested at high baum , producing a wine with tremendous depth of flavour, and 13.7 degrees alcohol. 1996U Mushroom risottoX 3335Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Semillon Sauvignon Blanc White Y Other White Varietals and Blends Z Australia _$Dowie Doole Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Dowie Doole $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Water WheelP 7Peter Cumming has always made generously flavoured and constructed wines, and the Chardonnay is very much in the mainstream of his style. The high alcohol gives the wine a particular sweetness and richness, and it is the fruit (not the oak) which drives the wine. For the record, air-dried American oak is used. 1996U Roast porkX 3338Z 14/7/98a Bendigo Bendigo Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Water Wheel Bendigo Chardonnay Water Wheel e under $10 Bendigo 14/7/98 Stringy BraeP 11.5Q Produced from grapes grown on 0.8 hectare of vines at the Stringy Brae vineyard supplemented by grapes grown on the Slate Creek vineyard, Watervale. An extremely powerful and concentrated wine, made from very ripe grapes.S 1996U Asian foodX 3339Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Stringy Brae Riesling Stringy Brae $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Clos ClareP 12.5Q Produced from the unirrigated, old vine Villa Block on the famed Florita Vineyard, and shows all of the power and concentration one would expect. S 1996U Thai cuisineX 3340Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Clos Clare Riesling Clos Clare $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Matilda s MeadowP A wine which adds support to the view that the Denmark/Albany subregion of the Great Southern has the potential to produce excellent Pinot Noir once the vineyards become mature, and the seasonal conditions are right.S 1995U JapaneseX 3341Z 14/7/98a Great Southern Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Z Australia Matilda s Meadow Pinot Noir Matilda s Meadow $16-20 Great Southern 14/7/98 AllindaP 22.50 Notwithstanding the name Cabernets is in fact almost entirely made from Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is fermented at relatively low temperatures, and left on skins for a further eight days after the end of fermentation. It is matured in a mix of French and American oak barriques, but is fruit, rather than oak-driven. Low yields produced a wine of astonishing colour and flavour in the relatively cool and moist 1995 vintage. 1995U Char-grilled beefX 3343Z 14/7/98a Yarra Valley N Cabernets Cabernet Blends Z Australia Allinda Cabernets Allinda $21-25 Yarra Valley 14/7/98 Stefano LubianaP ;Made by Steve Lubiana at the substantial winery he has established on the banks of the Derwent River, and produced from the classic blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The strength of the wine is that Lubiana manages to avoid the excessively acid finish which dogs some otherwise very good Tasmanian sparkling wine. NVU ShellfishX 3345Z 14/7/98a Southern Tasmania X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Stefano Lubiana NV Brut Stefano Lubiana $16-20 Northern Tasmania 14/7/98 QuelltalerP The semillon vines at Quelltaler are clonal selections from the Hunter Valley, and have an average age of 45 years. Grown on red loam over limestone, hand-pruned and hand-picked, they have always produced a white wine of exceptional concentration and character. The wine is cool-fermented, and 50% matured in two-year-old French oak on its lees for a period of six weeks, giving a barely subliminal hint of oak. A consistent medal winner in national wine shows; Top 100 1997 Sydney InternationaB l Wine Competition. 1996U Poached salmonX 3351Z 14/7/98a Clare Valley Annie s Lane Semillon White Semillon Z Australia _ Quelltaler Annie s Lane Semillon Quelltaler $11-15 Clare Valley 14/7/98 Pepper TreeP *Entirely sourced from Pepper Tree s jointly owned Coonawarra vineyard, and picked particularly late to ensure maximum ripeness hence the 13.6 degrees alcohol. Interestingly, notwithstanding the ripeness, no acid adjustment was made. Not far short of what can be achieved with Unwooded Chardonnay. 1996U ed vealX 3356Z 14/7/98a Lower Hunter Valley Coonawarra Unwooded Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _*Pepper Tree Coonawarra Unwooded Chardonnay Pepper Tree $16-20 Lower Hunter Valley 14/7/98 Richmond GroveP 9.95QjSourced from the very large and modern Cowra vineyard of Richmond Grove, and made in a no-frills fashion. S 1995U Creamy pastaX 3357Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Cowra Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia Richmond Grove Cowra Chardonnay Richmond Grove e under $10 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Simon HackettP 12.99 As the name tells you, produced from old, low-yielding grenache vines grown in McLaren Vale. It is given a brief sojourn in used American oak for three months, more to soften the fruit than modify its flavour, which is as it should be. A first class example of juicy Grenache. While youngS 1996U RavioliX 3358Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of SA McLaren Vale Old Vine Grenache Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _,Simon Hackett McLaren Vale Old Vine Grenache Simon Hackett $11-15 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Wolf BlassP hA blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay coming from McLaren Vale (35%), Yarra Valley (30%), Adelaide Hills (20%) and Eden Valley (15%). The full range of sparkling winemaking techniques is used, including whole-bunch pressing, solids fermentation, barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation and the use of Reserve wine. There isn t much else you can do. U!Tartare of fresh Tasmanian salmonX 3360Z 14/7/98a Barossa Valley Vintage X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Wolf Blass Vintage Brut Wolf Blass $11-15 Barossa Valley 14/7/98 Andrew GarrettP cAn interesting wine made from pinot noir and chardonnay grown in the Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale. Whole-bunch pressed, but part of the base wine was barrel-fermented to add complexity; that component is barely evident in the finished wine. It spent several years on yeast lees prior to disgorgement. Top 100 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition. R Drink nowS 1994U AperitifX 3362Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Vintage Pinot Chardonnay X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _'Andrew Garrett Vintage Pinot Chardonnay Andrew Garrett $16-20 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 CorbansP While significant quantities of semillon are grown in New Zealand (chiefly in Marlborough and Gisborne) relatively little is released as a varietal wine; most is blended with Sauvignon Blanc, which it in fact closely resembles. Doubtful clonal selection and a tendency to overcrop has not helped the cause. However, with appropriate winemaking inputs, good wines can be obtained, as this wine demonstrates. Fermented in a mix of French and American oak barriques and aged on lees for six monthsBk; a small percentage undergoes malolactic fermentation. Top 100 1997 Sydney International Wine Competition. 1995U Strong-flavoured fishX 3366Z 14/7/98a Gisborne Huntaway Reserve Semillon White Semillon New Zealand _!Corbans Huntaway Reserve Semillon Corbans (Gisborne) $16-20 Gisborne/Poverty Bay 14/7/98 HawkesbridgeP The Hawkesbridge wines are contract-made by one of New Zealand s most talented winemakers, and whose skills show across the range, even if I prefer the finer Sauvignon Blancs to the more opulent Chardonnays.S PastaX 3370Z 14/7/98a Marlborough Sophie s Vineyard Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _)Hawkesbridge Sophie s Vineyard Chardonnay Hawkesbridge Wines $21-25 Marlborough t late note 14/7/98 Moutere HillsP 18.5QIA very competently made wine, barrel-fermented and matured in French oak.S 1996U SweetbreadsX 3371Z 14/7/98a Nelson Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand Moutere Hills Chardonnay Moutere Hills Vineyard $16-20 Nelson 14/7/98 Moutere HillsP A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, half coming from the Moutere Hills own vineyard, the remainder from a vineyard nearby at Richmond. Bottled very early, but not without some justification.S 1996U Pan-fried vealX 3372Z 14/7/98a Nelson Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Blends New Zealand Moutere Hills Cabernet Merlot Moutere Hills Vineyard $16-20 Nelson 14/7/98 HaselgroveP The elegantly labelled Reserve series are the top wines produced by Nick Haselgrove, and are genuinely superior. Fermented in open fermenters and basket-pressed, it is an extremely concentrated wine in the style of John Riddoch.S 1994U Char-grilled rumpX 3375Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Z Australia _)Haselgrove Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Haselgrove $26-50 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 Nicholson RiverP Montview is the second Chardonnay in the Nicholson River stable, occasionally released with the Special tag. It was the only wine made in 1990.R 3-7 yearsS 1995U Soft, mature Gippsland cheeseX 14/7/98a Gippsland Montview Chardonnay White Chardonnay Z Australia _#Nicholson River Montview Chardonnay Nicholson River $16-20 r Gippsland 14/7/98 Rosemount EstateP Rosemount has been making a Reserve Shiraz from low-yielding McLaren Vale vines for many years now. It in fact pre-dates the acquisition of the Ryecroft vineyard and winery which now constitutes the Rosemount base in McLaren Vale. It also pre-dates the development of the super-premium Balmoral Syrah, which uses similar (albeit the very top) fruit sources. The majority of the vines are between 50 and 100 years of age. It is matured in a mix of new and one-year-old American oak barrels for 2B 0 months. 1994U Marinated beef 3776Z 14/7/98a McLaren Vale Reserve Shiraz Shiraz Z Australia Rosemount Estate Reserve Shiraz Rosemount Estate (McLaren Vale) $21-25 McLaren Vale 14/7/98 N NarkoojeeP A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with the vines dating back to 1981. In 1995 the wine reached 13.5 degrees alcohol, and is beautifully made.S 1995U Gippsland lambX 3777Z 14/7/98a Gippsland Cabernets Merlot Cabernet Blends Z Australia Narkoojee Cabernets Merlot c Narkoojee $21-25 r Gippsland 14/7/98 N NarkoojeeP A special bottling of limited quantities of varietal Merlot, named in the memory of Harry Friend s father, Athelstan Hardcastle Friend. Another delicious wine, and true to variety.S 1995U Veal chopsX 3778Z 14/7/98a Gippsland The Athelstan Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia Narkoojee The Athelstan Merlot c Narkoojee $21-25 r Gippsland 14/7/98 RiverinaP Merlot is one of the 14 varieties included in the 1100 hectares of Riverina Wines Ballingal Estate vineyards, making it the largest vineyard owner in the Riverina region. This particular wine won a well-deserved top gold medal at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show. 1995U SaltimboccaX 3779Z 14/7/98a Riverina Ballingal Estate Merlot Other Red Varietals and Blends Z Australia _ Riverina Ballingal Estate Merlot Riverina Wines e under $10 Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area 14/7/98 Sacred HillP The Reserve Barrel Fermented name for this wine suggests it will be strongly oak-driven, but that is not the case with the 96. Altogether a lighter style from the Dartmoor Valley district of Hawke s Bay.S CrabX 3379Z 10/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _4Sacred Hill Reserve Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc Sacred Hill Hawke s Bay 10/7/98 Sacred HillP 19.95 @Produced from the small-berried Mendoza clone, which is a far more controllable clone in Hawke s Bay than it is in Marlborough, and which provides greater intensity and density of fruit than Clone 5. It also lends itself to the whole-bunch pressing technique used to make this wine, which is fermented in new French oak. Pasta carbonaraX 3380Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Barrel Fermented Hawkes Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _:Sacred Hill Reserve Barrel Fermented Hawkes Bay Chardonnay Sacred Hill $16-20 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Sacred HillP The Whitecliff range of Sacred Hill is moderately priced; while quality has fluctuated, recent investment in both winemaking facilities and in grape supply resources should pay dividends in the future.S ScallopsX 3381Z 10/7/98a Hawke s Bay Whitecliff Hawke s Bay Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _-Sacred Hill Whitecliff Hawke s Bay Chardonnay Sacred Hill Hawke s Bay 10/7/98 Sacred HillP A throw-back to the days of oceans of New Zealand white wine made from a blend of Riesling and M ller Thurgau, but of altogether superior quality. Sixty-six per cent Riesling and 34% M ller Thurgau was picked when fully botrytised to make a luscious dessert-style. None made in 1997. Fruit tartX 3382Z 14/7/98a Hawke s Bay Reserve Noble Selection Sweet Sweet New Zealand _#Sacred Hill Reserve Noble Selection Sacred Hill $21-25 Hawke s Bay 14/7/98 Coopers CreekP &First made in 1994, using the best grapes available to Coopers Creek from Marlborough. It is fermented in stainless steel, but aged on lees in oak (American) for seven months. Just to add a touch of the exotic, chardonnay lees are added to the wine, and partial malolactic fermentation is used. Asian prawnsX 3385Z 14/7/98a Auckland Area Oak Aged Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _2Coopers Creek Oak Aged Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Coopers Creek $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 Holmes BrothersP The varietal composition of the wine is not specified, but is presumably pinot noir, conceivably with the inclusion of some white grapes. A style which is simple, but works well.S NAU AntipastoX 3389Z 14/7/98a Nelson Richmond Plains New Zealand _$Holmes Brothers Richmond Plains Ros Holmes Brothers e under $10 Nelson 14/7/98 Hungerford HillP 14.50 eSouthcorp (chiefly through the agency of Seppelt) has quite extensive vineyard holdings and contract arrangements in the Southern Alps around Tumbarumba, and a high-quality Sauvignon Blanc was released several years ago under one of the multitudinous Seppelt labels. Part of the production is now permanently dedicated to the Hungerford Hill varietal range. R Drink nowS 1995U Seafood risottoX 14/7/98` SE CHa Lower Hunter Valleyb 2 Whitec)2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) Tumbarumba Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc Z Australia _*Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Sauvignon Blanc Hungerford Hill $11-15 r ?Hilltops t late note 14/7/98 Spencer Hill EstateP +A blend of 64% Sauvignon Blanc and 37% Semillon, predominantly sourced from the Gisborne and Nelson regions, with small amounts from Marlborough and Hawke s Bay. Barrel-fermented, and spends seven months in a mix of French and American oak. According to the label it also had s contact [sic]. R Drink nowS NAU AntipastoX 3393Z 14/7/98a Nelson Tasman Bay Reserve White Y Other White Varietals and Blends New Zealand _+Spencer Hill Estate Tasman Bay Reserve Fum Spencer Hill Estate $11-15 Nelson 14/7/98 TorlesseP Made, as the name indicates, from grapes grown in the Waipara subdistrict of the Canterbury region, and more proof if any was needed that riesling is extremely well suited to the climate and soils of the Waipara Valley.S 1995U Fish with slightly sweet sauceX 3396Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Waipara Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Torlesse Waipara Riesling Torlesse $16-20 Canterbury 14/7/98 TorlesseP uSauvignon Blanc can be grown satisfactorily in the Canterbury region, but its supplies are limited, while those of Marlborough are immense. It is thus no surprise to find wineries such as Torlesse sourcing their grapes from the Marlborough region; in the hands of Kym Rayner, first-class wine is the result, which won a silver medal at the 1996 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. R Drink nowS 1996U Smoked salmonX 3397Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc White Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand _$Torlesse Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Torlesse $16-20 Marlborough 14/7/98 TorlesseP 18.3Q Although the label is not totally specific on the matter, almost certainly a blend of Marlborough and Canterbury grapes. A wine which shows considerable winemaking skills, with a range of techniques used.S Rib of vealX 3398Z 14/7/98a Canterbury South Island Chardonnay White Chardonnay New Zealand _ Torlesse South Island Chardonnay Torlesse $16-20 Canterbury 14/7/98 Sandihurst WinesP 10.45Q Riesling has proved itself well suited to the Canterbury climate, producing a range of wines from bone-dry to intensely sweet. Botrytis, it would seem, is a relatively common visitor, and has certainly made its mark on this wine.S Seafood bisqueX 3781Z 14/7/98a Canterbury Riesling White Riesling New Zealand Sandihurst Wines Riesling Sandihurst Wines e under $10 14/7/98 Sandihurst Wines [3wine glasses] 1996 Medium yellow-green; there is a potent mix of tropical/pineapple aromas on the bouquet, with similar soft, tropical fruit flavours on the mid-palate. The botrytis influence contributes both to the aroma and flavour and to a slightly edgy finish. RATING: 75 @BM bold:XXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Medium yellow-green; there is a potent mix of tropical/pineapple aromas on the bouquet, with similar soft, tropical fruit flavours on the mid-palate. The botrytis influence contributes both to the aroma and flavour and to a slightly edgy finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">75 Cope-WilliamsP Made entirely from Macedon Ranges grapes, but not estate-grown as is the case with R.O.M.S.E.Y. Brut. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir which spends two years on yeast lees.S Hors d oeuvresX 3802Z 10/7/98a Macedon Macedon Ranges X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _!Cope-Williams Macedon Ranges Brut Cope-Williams 10/7/98 Cope-Williams +[4wine glasses] Light straw-yellow; a complex and stylish bouquet with a mix of bready/toasty characters deriving from the time on lees, allied with a hint of mandarin. The wine has excellent mouthfeel and balance, with clean citrus/sweet apple fruit flavours and a long finish. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX NV <f"Bembo">Light straw-yellow; a complex and stylish bouquet with a mix of bready/toasty characters deriving from the time on lees, allied with a hint of mandarin. The wine has excellent mouthfeel and balance, with clean citrus/sweet apple fruit flavours and a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 MiramarP Winemaker Ian MacRae has long since proved his expertise in white wine making, most conspicuously with Chardonnay, but also (as this wine shows) his skills extend to Semillon.S PastaX 3811Z 10/7/98a Mudgee Semillon White Semillon Z Australia Miramar Semillon Miramar 10/7/98 RochecombeP One of surprisingly few Rieslings to be grown in northern Tasmania, and which stands well apart from mainland Riesling in its style.S Caesar saladX 4072Y 14/7/98a Northern Tasmania Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Rochecombe Riesling Rochecombe Vineyard $16-20 14/7/98 7/1/98 Rochecombe Vineyard [4wine glasses] 1996 Light green-yellow; a fragrant mix of herb, thyme and spice aromas are strikingly different; the palate is similarly herbaceous, appealing in a Germanic fashion. A crisp, clean low phenolic finish is a logical conclusion. RATING: 88 @BM bold:XXXX 1996 <f"Bembo">Light green-yellow; a fragrant mix of herb, thyme and spice aromas are strikingly different; the palate is similarly herbaceous, appealing in a Germanic fashion. A crisp, clean low phenolic finish is a logical conclusion.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">88 Eling ForestP 13.50 While Joadja sources much of its output from estate-grown grapes, the Eling Forest Riesling comes from a 2.5-hectare vineyard planted three years ago at the historic Eling Forest property at Sutton Forest, near Berrima in the southern highlands. It produces a very interesting wine. Avocado saladX 2292Z 14/7/98a Other Wineries of NSW Riesling White Riesling Z Australia Eling Forest Riesling Eling Forest Winery $11-15 14/7/98 23/1/98 SeppeltP I have now finally come to terms with the olive oil bottles used to package this great wine, and find on looking through my tasting notes that I accorded it the highest points of any wine in wine shows I judged in 1997, when I gave it 19.5 (perilously close to 100 points on the 100-point scale) at the 1997 Sydney Wine Show. Yet, on a side-by-side basis, I'm not too sure that I don't prefer the Tokay. Dried fruitsX 4191Y 10/7/98a Barossa Valley Show Reserve DP63 Muscat X Fortified Muscat Z Australia _ Seppelt Show Reserve DP63 Muscat Seppelt 10/7/98 23/1/98 Seppelt '[5wine glasses] Deep mahogany brown, with an olive green rim; an exceptionally concentrated and infinitely complex wine in which very old material is interwoven with fresher, intensely raisined fruit. Plum pudding, Christmas cake, caramel and toffee all in a glass together. RATING: 98 @BM bold:XXXXX NV <f"Bembo">Deep mahogany brown, with an olive green rim; an exceptionally concentrated and infinitely complex wine in which very old material is interwoven with fresher, intensely raisined fruit. Plum pudding, Christmas cake, caramel and toffee all in a glass together.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">98 Cellier Le BrunP Made from 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Meunier, and typically given two years on yeast lees. An extremely bold style.S Pan-fried scallopsX 4219Y 10/7/98a Marlborough Methode Traditionnelle X Sparkling Sparkling White New Zealand _&Cellier Le Brun Methode Traditionnelle Cellier Le Brun 10/7/98 24/1/98 Cellier Le Brun [4wine glasses] Full straw-yellow; a powerful, but clean, bouquet with toasty butter and butterscotch aromas. The palate has distinctive fruit sweetness and richness with biscuit and butterscotch flavours balanced by strong acidity on the finish. RATING: 89 @BM bold:XXXX NV <f"Bembo">Full straw-yellow; a powerful, but clean, bouquet with toasty butter and butterscotch aromas. The palate has distinctive fruit sweetness and richness with biscuit and butterscotch flavours balanced by strong acidity on the finish. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">89 DelatiteP 27.50 A non-vintage blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay typically released at an average age of three years, and typically including base wine from two vintages. Produced in very limited volumes (around 900 cases) and available only through cellar door and by mailing list. Hors d'oeuvresX 4222Y 14/7/98a Central Victorian High Country Delmelza Pinot Chardonnay X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia _"Delatite Delmelza Pinot Chardonnay Delatite $26-50 14/7/98 27/1/98 Delatite [3.5wine glasses] Light straw-yellow; a fine, citrussy bouquet with some bready/biscuity notes which are quite dominant on the palate, no doubt deriving from the Pinot Noir component. While not especially complex, the wine has fair length and good acidity. RATING: 81 @BM bold:XXXx NV <f"Bembo">Light straw-yellow; a fine, citrussy bouquet with some bready/biscuity notes which are quite dominant on the palate, no doubt deriving from the Pinot Noir component. While not especially complex, the wine has fair length and good acidity.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">81 HardysP A curiously named and somewhat curiously packaged non-vintage wine of unspecified varieties and unspecified regions, selling for a song and which almost inevitably attracted little attention from wine-writers and critics until in an unprecedented run it won gold medals in successive capital city wine shows in 1997 at Brisbane, Melbourne and Adelaide respectively. The frustration of non-vintage sparkling wines is, of course, that one does not know which batch or disgorgement the wine come s from unless as in this case Hardy has affixed replicas of the gold medals on the label. One assumes that once the next major blend comes along, the gold medal claim will disappear. Certainly, the wine tasted was a very credible gold medal winner. AperitifX 4264Y 14/7/98a McLaren Vale X Sparkling Sparkling White Z Australia Hardys Omni Hardys e under $10 14/7/98 1/2/98 Hardys 1[4wine glasses] Bright green-yellow; a clean, smooth melon and citrus bouquet, not showing much complexity of yeast autolysis characters, but bright and attractive. The palate is very crisp and clean in a Blanc de Blanc style; a polar opposite to the Sir James Vintage sparkling wine. RATING: 87 @BM bold:XXXX NV <f"Bembo">Bright green-yellow; a clean, smooth melon and citrus bouquet, not showing much complexity of yeast autolysis characters, but bright and attractive. The palate is very crisp and clean in a Blanc de Blanc style; a polar opposite to the Sir James Vintage sparkling wine.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">87 N AuldstoneP When the Reids acquired the run-down and phylloxera-affected vineyard from Baileys of Glenrowan, Muscat was the first wine they made. That first wine won a gold medal for the Best Current Vintage Muscat at the Rutherglen Show of that year. The commercial release of Boweya is a blend of base wines between two and four years old, very different to most Glenrowan/Rutherglen Muscats, which are typically released with much greater age. An interesting and valid alternative style. Winter aperitif or with coffeeX 4359Y 14/7/98a Glenrowan Boweya Muscat X Fortified Muscat Z Australia Auldstone Boweya Muscat c Auldstone $11-15 14/7/98 5/2/98 % Auldstone [3.5wine glasses] Light red-brown; a fairly spirity bouquet, but with grapey/raisiny muscat varietal character evident. The palate follows down the same track, with youthful raisiny/grapey flavours and slightly fierce spirit. RATING: 80 @BM bold:XXXx NV <f"Bembo">Light red-brown; a fairly spirity bouquet, but with grapey/raisiny muscat varietal character evident. The palate follows down the same track, with youthful raisiny/grapey flavours and slightly fierce spirit. <t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">80 MirandaP NAQpProduced from heavily botrytised semillon grapes grown in the Riverina region, and a prolific show medal winner.S NAU Pecan pieX 4551Y 10/7/98a Riverina Botrytis Semillon Sweet Sweet Z Australia Miranda Botrytis Semillon Miranda 10/7/98 22/2/98 Miranda [4wine glasses] 1997 Glowing yellow-green; a very ripe, almost raisiny bouquet with honeyed toffee cumquat aromas moving into a more tangy grapefruit marmalade palate, which is lively and fresh, with pronounced acidity on a long finish. RATING: 85 @BM bold:XXXX 1997 <f"Bembo">Glowing yellow-green; a very ripe, almost raisiny bouquet with honeyed toffee cumquat aromas moving into a more tangy grapefruit marmalade palate, which is lively and fresh, with pronounced acidity on a long finish.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">85 Seppelt Great WesternP Made from old vine Shiraz grown at Seppelt Great Western, matured in large oak casks for one year before tiraging, and then on yeast lees for nine to ten years before disgorgement. Always an exceptionally complex wine, which will live for decades, as the classic wine notes demonstrate. Up to 20 yearsS: 1985U BorschtX 1017Z 14/7/98` SHa Grampiansb 3 Sparklingc 6 Sparklingf Sparkling Burgundy X Sparkling Sparkling Red Z Australia _-Seppelt Great Western Show Sparkling Burgundy Seppelt Great Western Great Western 14/7/98 Seppelt Great Western f[5wine glasses] 1986 Medium to full red; a complex mix spice, plum, game and earth claim the varietal origin of the wine. A marvellously balanced palate with spice, liquorice, game and earth flavours, with a dash of dark chocolate thrown in for good measure, and most impressively of all, without undue sweetness. Winner of 16 gold medals. RATING: 95 @BM bold:XXXXX 1986 <f"Bembo">Medium to full red; a complex mix spice, plum, game and earth claim the varietal origin of the wine. A marvellously balanced palate with spice, liquorice, game and earth flavours, with a dash of dark chocolate thrown in for good measure, and most impressively of all, without undue sweetness. Winner of 16 gold medals.<t9h119.9997z7f"Frutiger-BoldCn"><\t>rating: <t0h100z8f"Bembo">95 All SaintsP -5495Y 24/7/98 Vintage Blackjack Cabernet Merlot 24/7/98 24/7/98 All SaintsP -5495Y 24/7/98 Vintage /7/98 WINE STYLE Pro 2.0 - 2.1F! Pro 3.0 - 4.0 UKENGLSH.MPR Spelling PaulaDictionary FMRLA SORTA spell print open tasting notes open wineries winery name classic wine region Export CD Data Update Book Wine Selection Update Book Text Tasting Notes Update Book Tagged Tasting Notes Update In Book Status Find/Create Wine for Vintages DB New User Wine New User Wine Name by Splitting Find Wine x New User Wine x Find Wine for Vintages DB Import Web Wines Split Wine Name Export User FMP Find Chosen Wine ID Delete this Wine Delete Unused Chosen Wine Remove Unused User Wines open tasting notes open wineries spell print winery name classic wine region Export CD Data Update Book Wine Selection AFUpdate the Book Winery Names (for Book relationship used in Winery DB) """""" 333333 DDDDDD UUUUUU ffffff wwwwww Update Book Text Tasting Notes A"Performed on the current found setB ) + 1 'A Update Book Tagged Tasting Notes A"Performed on the current found set .Now update all the single tasting notes text. [To save time, first we copy ('replace=') the fields, which only copies values from the first repeating field. We then follow this up by finding the records with >1 tasting notes (vintages) and update remaining values tediously with the external scripts. ] """""" 333333 DDDDDD UUUUUU ffffff wwwwww """""" 333333 DDDDDD UUUUUU ffffff wwwwww F.Now update all the multiple tasting notes text x New User Wine Update In Book Status +A Find/Create Wine for Vintages DB 0 = 0 x Find Wine for Vintages DB script "Find Wine for Vintages DB" uses the Vintage field 'Requested Wine Name' and returns the Wine ID in 'Vintages::Wine ID'. If not found this field is set to 0. ) + 1 Import Web Wines 5016* 333333 UUUUUU ffffff wwwwww .A Find Wine B3Doesn't work, because it finds by word matches onlyC! ) = 0) New User Wine New User Wine Name by Splitting Split Wine Name A7Find the wine and return the Wine ID, or 0 if not foundB! QE/This may not have found the exact wine requiredFA ) > 0 ) = 0 ) > 0 Export User FMP Find Chosen Wine ID All Saints Shiraz ) = 0) Delete this Wine &A[Try to match the winery name, starting every word, then trying a decreasing number of wordsB! 7 = 0 <> 0 7 - 1 GKWe have found a winery name of 'count' words, or we haven't (and count = 0)H Try to match the variety by locating known words. Look for less common words first (see the step immediately following) -- then see if any of our common variety words come earlier (following script steps) "Barbera" "Barbera" "Blanc" "Blanc" "Botrytis" "Botrytis" "Brut" "Brut" "Burgundy" "Burgundy" "Cabernet" "Cabernet" "Cabernet" "Cabernet" "Chambourcin" "Chambourcin" "Chardonnay" "Chardonnay" "Chenin" "Chenin" "Claret" "Claret" "Classic" assic" "Colombard" "Colombard" "Coonawarra Red" "Coonawarra Red" "Cuv "Cuv "Dry" "Dry" "Durif" "Durif" "Franc" "Fran "Frontignac" "Frontignac" "Fum "Fum "Gamay" "Gamay" "Gew rztraminer" "Gew rztraminer" "Grenache" "Grenache" "Hermitage" "Hermitage" "Liqueur" "Liqueur" "Malbec" "Malbec" "Marlborough" "Marlborough" "Marsanne" "Marsanne" "Merlot" "Merlot" "Methode" "Methode" "Meunier" "Meunier" "Mourvedre" "Mourvedre" "Muscat" "Muscat" thode" thode" "Oaked" "Oaked" "Old" "Old" "Petit" "Petit" "Pinot" "Pinot" "Port" "Port" "Rosato" "Rosato" "Ros "Ros "Roussanne" "Roussanne" "Sangiovese" "Sangiovese" "Sauvignon" "Sauvignon" "Semillon" "Semillon" "Sherry" "Sherry" "Shiraz" "Shiraz" "Sparkling" "Sparkling" "Sweet" "Sweet" "Syrah" "Syrah" "Taminga" "Taminga" "Tawny" "Tawny" "Tokay" "Tokay" "Traminer" "Traminer" "Unoaked" "Unoaked" "Unwooded" "Unwooded" "Verdelho" "Verdelho" "Viognier" "Viognier" "White" "White" "Zinfandel" "Zinfandel" 999 )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) Barbera Barbera Blanc Blanc Botrytis Botrytis Burgundy Burgundy Cabernet Cabernet Cabernet Cabernet Chambourcin Chambourcin Chardonnay Chardonnay Chenin Chenin Claret Claret Classic Classic Colombard Colombard Coonawarra Red Coonawarra Red Durif Durif Franc Franc Frontignac Frontignac Gamay Gamay rztraminer rztraminer Grenache Grenache Hermitage Hermitage Liqueur Liqueur Malbec Malbec Marlborough Marlborough Marsanne Marsanne Merlot Merlot Methode Methode Meunier Meunier Mourvedre Mourvedre Muscat Muscat thode thode Oaked Oaked Petit Petit Pinot Pinot Rosato Rosato Roussanne Roussanne Sangiovese Sangiovese Sauvignon Sauvignon Semillon Semillon Sherry Sherry Shiraz Shiraz Sparkling Sparkling Sweet Sweet Syrah Syrah Taminga Taminga Tawny Tawny Tokay Tokay Traminer Traminer Unoaked Unoaked Unwooded Unwooded Verdelho Verdelho Viognier Viognier White White Zinfandel Zinfandel 222222222222222222222222222222222 222222222222222222222222222 "Bin " 1) > 0 "Bin " 1) < "Bin " "Blanc" 1) > 0 "Blanc" 1) < "Blanc" Blanc Blanc Blanc "Burgundy" 1) > 0 "Burgundy" 1) < "Burgundy" Burgundy Burgundy Burgundy "Cabernet" 1) > 0 "Cabernet" 1) < "Cabernet" Cabernet Cabernet Cabernet "Chardonnay" 1) > 0 "Chardonnay" 1) < "Chardonnay" Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay "Coonawarra" 1) > 0 "Coonawarra" 1) < "Coonawarra" Coonawarra Coonawarra Coonawarra "Cuv 1) > 0 "Cuv 1) < "Cuv "Dry" 1) > 0 "Dry" 1) < "Dry" "Franc" 1) > 0 "Franc" 1) < "Franc" Franc Franc Franc "Fum 1) > 0 "Fum 1) < "Fum "Grenache" 1) > 0 "Grenache" 1) < "Grenache" Grenache Grenache Grenache "Liqueur" 1) > 0 "Liqueur" 1) < "Liqueur" Liqueur Liqueur Liqueur "Malbec" 1) > 0 "Malbec" 1) < "Malbec" Malbec Malbec Malbec "Merlot" 1) > 0 "Merlot" 1) < "Merlot" Merlot Merlot Merlot "Muscat" 1) > 0 "Muscat" 1) < "Muscat" Muscat Muscat Muscat "Pinot" 1) > 0 "Pinot" 1) < "Pinot" Pinot Pinot Pinot "Port" 1) > 0 "Port" 1) < "Port" "Riesling" 1) > 0 "Riesling" 1) < "Riesling" Riesling Riesling Riesling "Sauvignon" 1) > 0 "Sauvignon" 1) < "Sauvignon" Sauvignon Sauvignon Sauvignon "Semillon" 1) > 0 "Semillon" 1) < "Semillon" Semillon Semillon Semillon "Tokay" 1) > 0 "Tokay" 1) < "Tokay" Tokay Tokay Tokay "White" 1) > 0 "White" 1) < "White" White White White 5 = 999 9) - 5 + 1 ))) Ph2a{Now we know the number of words found for the wine name (might be 0 if not found) AND the variety (might be 0 if not found)b) 6 = 0 9) - 6 <= 3 9) - 7 + 1 9) - Delete Unused Chosen Wine Remove Unused User Wines A-First find all wines with ID < 0 (user wines)BN ) = 0) ) > 0) ) = 0 Helvetica Geneva Bookman Times Arial MT Condensed Light Dingbats Footnote (RPTH ) > 0 ,RPTH MSPC FPTHA,4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Classic Wines:Classics 4Tune Classics FMP3FMP3 Classic Wines ,4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Classic Wines:Classics John's Power Piece (see?) 4Tune John Cook MSPCA NAMEA Classics RPTHA ::Classic Wines:Classics FPTHA(4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wines:Classic Data 4Tune Classic Data FMP3FMP3 Wines (4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wines:Classic Data John's Power Piece (see?) 4Tune John Cook MSPCA NAMEA Classic Data RPTHA Classic Data 4Tune Classic Data FMP3FMP3 Wines (4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wines:Classic Data John's Power Piece (see?) 4Tune John Cook RPTH FPTHA Zip Tools 4.3:Wine:Tasting Notes FaliA Zip Tools 4.3 Tasting Notes bFMP3FMP3 Zip Tools 4.3:Wine:Tasting Notes .SC/IOMEGA MSPCA NAMEA Tasting Notes RPTHA Tasting Notes alisA Zip Tools 4.3 Tasting Notes bFMP3FMP3 Zip Tools 4.3:Wine:Tasting Notes .SC/IOMEGA FPTHA Paula:Comp 98:Tasting Notes MSPCA NAMEA Tasting Notes RPTHA Tasting Notes 4Tune Classics FMP3FMP3 Classic Wines ,4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Classic Wines:Classics John's Power Piece (see?) 4Tune John Cook MSPC FPTHA Paula:Comp 98:Wineries MSPCA NAMEA Wineries RPTHA Wineries Paula Wineries M7FMP3FMP3 Comp 98 Paula:Comp 98:Wineries Paula Paula Paula Paula >RPTH FPTHA>4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintage Paula Tasting Notes FMP3FMP3 Comp 98 Paula:Comp 98:Tasting Notes Paula Paula Paula Paula >RPTH FPTHA>4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintage 4Tune Vintage FMP3FMP3 Databases >4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintage Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Vintage RPTHA Vintage 4Tune Vintage FMP3FMP3 Databases >4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintage Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Vintage RPTHA Vintage 4Tune Vintage FMP3FMP3 Databases >4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintage Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune CMSPC FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Tastings.WOR MSPCA NAMEA Tastings.WOR RPTHA Tastings.WOR ngs.WOR FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Tastings.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Tastings.WOR RPTHA Tastings.WOR 4Tune Vintage FMP3FMP3 Databases >4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintage Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune CMSPC FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Tastings.WOR MSPCA NAMEA Tastings.WOR RPTHA Tastings.WOR ngs.WOR FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Tastings.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Tastings.WOR RPTHA Tastings.WOR breeze wines chalice wines lake's folly lalla gully vineyard lamont wines langmeil winery CMSPC FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Tastings.WOR MSPCA NAMEA Tastings.WOR RPTHA Tastings.WOR ngs.WOR FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Tastings.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Tastings.WOR RPTHA Tastings.WOR rattray vineyards marribrook marsh estate martinborough vineyard marybrook estate massoni creek matariki wines matawhero wines matilda's meadow matua valley maxwell wines mcalister vineyards mcdonald winery mcguigan brothers mcwilliam's mcwilliam's mount pleasant meadowbank wines meerea merlen wines merricks estate merrivale wines mildara coonawarra millinup estate mills winery millton vineyard mintaro wines miramar miranda miranda rovalley estate mission estate winery CRPTH FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Classics.fp3 4Tune Classics.fp3 G3>FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Classics.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Classics.fp3 RPTHA Classics.fp3 hollyclare holmes brothers honeytree estate hotham valley estate CMSPC FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Wineries.WOR MSPCA NAMEA Wineries.WOR RPTHA Wineries.WOR ies.WOR M7FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Wineries.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Wineries.WOR RPTHA Wineries.WOR 4Tune Classics.fp3 G3>FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Classics.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune CMSPC FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintages.WOR MSPCA NAMEA Vintages.WOR RPTHA Vintages.WOR ges.WOR FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintages.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Vintages.WOR RPTHA Vintages.WOR redbank winery redgate redman drayton wines reilly's cottage renmano reynell reynolds yarraman ribbon estate richard hamilton richmond grove rimfire vineyards rippon vineyard rivendell riverina wines riverside wines robinsons family vineyards robinvale rochecombe vineyard rochford rockford CMSPC FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintages.WOR MSPCA NAMEA Vintages.WOR RPTHA Vintages.WOR ges.WOR FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintages.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Vintages.WOR RPTHA Vintages.WOR taylors kairanga wines mania estate estate waiheke vineyards temple bruer terrace thistle adams gramp tingle-wood tipperary estate tollana torbreck vintners torlesse trentham estate trinity tuck's ridge tulloch CMSPC FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:VarClass.WOR MSPCA NAMEA VarClass.WOR RPTHA VarClass.WOR ass.WOR ;2FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:VarClass.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA VarClass.WOR RPTHA VarClass.WOR sandstone scarborough scarpantoni estate scotchmans seaview seifried estate selaks drylands estate winery selaks wines auckland seldom vineyard seppelt seppelt great western seresin estate serventy sevenhill cellars seville estate shantell smith shottesbrooke simon hackett skillogalee smithbrook soljans wines sorrenberg spencer estate spring vineyards francis hallett CMSPC FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Wineries.WOR MSPCA NAMEA Wineries.WOR RPTHA Wineries.WOR ies.WOR M7FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Wineries.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Wineries.WOR RPTHA Wineries.WOR helena estate CMSPC FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Tastings.WOR MSPCA NAMEA Tastings.WOR RPTHA Tastings.WOR ngs.WOR FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Tastings.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Tastings.WOR RPTHA Tastings.WOR cope-williams corbans auckland corbans gisborne corbans hawke's corbans marlborough coriole covell estate cowra estate crabtree watervale craig vineyard craiglee craigmoor cranswick estate crawford river wines cross roads winery CMSPC FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintages.WOR MSPCA NAMEA Vintages.WOR RPTHA Vintages.WOR ges.WOR FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Vintages.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Vintages.WOR RPTHA Vintages.WOR whitehaven company wignalls wines wilderness estate wildwood taylor wines willespie willow willow creek wilson vineyard wilton estate windy ridge vineyard winstead wirilda creek wirra wirra wither hills vineyards blass woodonga woodstock woody wyndham estate wynns coonawarra estate xanadu wines yaldara yaldara wines BRPTH FPTHAB4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:User_Wn.fp3 4Tune User_Wn.fp3 FMP3FMP3 Databases B4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:User_Wn.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook MSPCA NAMEA User_Wn.fp3 RPTHA User_Wn.fp3 nautilus wines nepenthe vineyards neudorf vineyards vineyard ngatarawa wines nicholson river nobilo winery normans notley gorge oakridge estate oakvale okahu estate river omaka springs estate omihi hills orlando orlando padthaway osborns harwood vineyard padthaway estate palliser estate palmara palmers panorama paracombe wines paradise enough paringa estate parker coonawarra estate passing clouds pattersons conti osicka paulett pegasus pendarves estate penfolds penley estate pepper pertaringa (LIST LISTAs Drink now 2-3 years 2-5 years 5-7 years Up to 5 years Up to 10 years Short term Medium term Leave it in the cellar VDEFA( (LIST Light to medium yellow-green; Medium yellow-green; Medium to full yellow-green; Light green-yellow; Light yellow-green; Medium red-purple; Light to medium red-purple; Medium to full red-purple; Medium purple-red; Full red-purple; Deep purple-red; Deep red-purple; Dense red-purple; Dense purple-red; Full purple-red; VDEFA( (LIST LISTA Delete Changed 4Tune User_Wn.fp3 FMP3FMP3 Databases B4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:User_Wn.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook (LIST LISTA%1 Red 2 White 3 Sparkling 4 Fortified VDEFA( (LIST LISTA 1 Aromatic light bodied white (non-oaked) 2 Full-bodied dry white (oaked/non-oaked) 3 Sweet white table wine 4 Light-bodied dry red 5 Full-bodied dry red 6 Sparkling 7 Fortified VDEFA( (LIST Light to medium yellow-green; Medium yellow-green; Medium to full yellow-green; Light green-yellow; Light yellow-green; Medium red-purple; Light to medium red-purple; Medium to full red-purple; Medium purple-red; Full red-purple; Deep purple-red; Deep red-purple; Dense red-purple; Dense purple-red; Full purple-red; VDEFA( (LIST LISTA VDEFA( VDEFA( (LIST LISTA#White Sparkling Sweet Fortified VDEFA( (LIST Riesling Chardonnay Semillon Traminer Sauvignon Blanc White blends Other White Varietals and Blends Sparkling white Pinot Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz blends Cabernet blends Other Red Varietals and Blends Sparkling red Muscat Tokay Tawny Port Vintage Port Sherry Other VDEFA( (LIST LISTAHDrink now 0-2 Years 2-5 Years 5-8 Years 8-10 Years 10-15 Years 15+ Years VDEFA( (LIST LISTA-under $10 $11-15 $16-20 $21-25 $26-50 VDEFA( (LIST LISTA 98 book VDEFA( Cellaring ListC Tasting Note ListD Status ListE Wine Type ListF Wine Style ListG Tasting Note 3 ListH cellaringI Wine StyleJ styleK Cellaring SearchL Price GroupN 98 bookO ChangedP classicR checkedS lateT countryU CD noteV 99 bookW MarkedX book tagY Variety FMRLA SORTA FMRLA FMRLA FMRLA FMRLA SORTA( FMRLA SORTA (LIST LISTA Changed VDEFA( (LIST LISTA VDEFA( (LIST LISTA classic VDEFA( (LIST LISTA checked VDEFA( (LIST LISTA late note VDEFA( (LIST LISTA Australia New Zealand VDEFA( (LIST LISTA CD note VDEFA( (LIST LISTA 99 book VDEFA( (LIST LISTA Marked VDEFA( (LIST LISTA book tag VDEFA( (LIST VDEFA( FMRLA SORTA FMRLA Tasting NotesB Classic DataC WineriesE varieties CompI Tasting Notes [Book; Descending]J Book Tasting Notes [Ascending]L Vintages [Descending]N Book Vintages [Ascending]O Guessed Winery charles sturt university winery charley brothers chateau leamon chateau arendon hills winery clearview estate cleveland clonakilla cloudy clover cobaw ridge cockfighter's ghost vineyard coldstream hills collards coolangatta estate coopers creek cope-williams corbans gisborne corbans hawke's corbans marlborough coriole covell estate cowra estate cranswick estate crawford river wines cross roads winery d'arenberg dalfarras dalrymple dalwhinnie daniel schuster darling david traeger bortoli bortoli victoria redcliffe estates deakin estate delatite delegat's estate demondrille vineyards peake FPTHA alisA alisA FaliA alisA alisA alisA alisA VDEFA FMRLA ) > 0 quintet reserve riche riesling riesling sauvignon sauvignon blanc semillon shiraz tawny zinfandel merlot@ sweet white blanc blends cabernet cabernet blends cabernet sauvignon chardonnay other other varietals blends pinot pinot sauvignon sauvignon blanc shiraz shiraz blends traminer varietals white BzIf no vintages exist, and it is a user create wine (then it might be a mistake so delete it). Don't delete any of JH winesC; myra@ nicholson orange@ padthaway estate eliza chardonnay@ parker coonawarra estate first growth cabernet sauvignon@ pegasus sauvignon blanc semillon penfolds valleys chardonnay@ peter lehmann ad2015 vintage port@ pierro chardonnay pinot plantagenet shiraz@ prayer yalumba christobels white@ yarra yarra semillon sauvignon blanc@ adams avalon vineyard@ bellingham vineyards@ bowen brookfields cambewarra estate@ chapel clifford cooter cruickshank-callatoo@ derwent elgee@ estate fishburn o'keefe giesen estate@ grove hayward's whitehead creek hillsD hunter's wines kairanga knappstein wines@ lawsons hills lindemans karadoc@ marlborough meadow mitchelton mount helen@ noon@ paracombe wines peterson house punters@ ridge rosebank sandihurst smith stephen wines@ waiheke vineyards@ valley@ abbey abbey river adams adelaide alkoomi saints allan allan scott allandale allanmere allinda amberley amberley estate amery andrew andrew garrett andrew harris angove's apsley apsley gorge aquila aquila estate ariki arlewood arlewood estate arrowfield arthurs arthurs creek ashbrook ashbrook estate ashtonD ashton hillsD ashwell ashwell vineyards askerne rangi augustine@ bindi@ brian bullers cellars@ clair coonawarra currency@ domaine chandon estate farrell's limestone creek@ ghost estate@ hermitage road@ honeytree@ jane@ kingston@ family@ mcdonald@ moondah moutere hills@ osborns@ pepper phillip estate@ richmond rosemount scarpantoni estate smith stonier's tipperary vidal estate@ warramate blass@ 1960s marked first cottage block marlborough sauvignon 5-hectare 5-hectare lovely during peter draper's brief tenure wines gilbert quantities vintage mamre brook split itsel@ botrytis-infected@ distinctly@ first sauvignon blanc having decided sauvignon blanc hunter resisted temptation chardonnay grapes grown loamy willunga ninth island previous tasmania overwhelmingly@ produced hectares estate plantings pokolbin@ received bronze medal zealand sourced vineyards victoria always containing falcon vineyard selected potential produc@ abbey vale's successful wines vines@ years virtually virtually itself@ angus@ asian australian parmesan@ barbecued steak@ blanquette@ braised dishes@ casserole cheese chinese coffee petits fours@ mussels daube dishes english cheddar@ cheddar@ fresh abalone@ full-flavoured@ gippsland cheese@ grilled flounder@ herb@ jugged provencale@ light green curry dishes@ margaret river chevre mature cheese mushrooms pan-fried whitebait pasta salmon@ pizza ginger quail adelaide hills auckland barossa barossa valley clare coonawarra great hawke's hills lower hunter valley@ margaret marlborough mclaren mornington nelson VU_gqH? Helvetica Geneva Bookman Times Arial MT Condensed Light Dingbats Footnote (RPTH FPTHFPTHTHFPTHTHFPTHTHFPTHTHFPTHTH abbey river alkoomi saints allan scott wines allandale allanmere allinda amberley estate andrew garrett andrew harris vineyards angove's apsley gorge vineyard aquila estate arlewood estate arrowfield buring liebichwein lillydale vineyards lillypilly estate lincoln vineyards lindemans coonawarra lindemans hunter valley lindemans karadoc lindemans padthaway linden estate lintz estate lirralirra estate little's winery gully estate longleat family wines ndindi normans oakridge estate river orlando orlando padthaway palmara parker coonawarra estate pattersons conti penfolds peter lehmann pierro pikes pipers brook vineyard pirramimma plantagenet plunkett phillip estate primo estate redman richard hamilton richmond grove rivendell robinsons family vineyards rochford rosemount estate hunter valley rothbury estate rotherhythe rouge homme rymill kidman wines sacred saddlers creek saint clair estate salisbury estate salitage saltram hills vineyard sandalford sandihurst wines estate seaview seifried estate selaks drylands estate winery selaks wines auckland seldom vineyard seppelt seppelt great western seresin estate serventy sevenhill cellars seville estate shantell smith shottesbrooke simon hackett skillogalee smithbrook soljans wines sorrenberg spencer estate spring vineyards francis hallett arthurs creek estate ashbrook estate ashton hills ashwell vineyards askerne rangi augustine auldstone austin's barrabool avalon vineyard babich baileys glenrowan mountain baldivis estate balgownie estate balnaves coonawarra bannockburn vineyards barossa settlers barossa valley estate barratt barrington estate barwang vineyard basedow phillip beckett's bellingham vineyards beresford wines best's wines bethany wines bianchet bimbadgen estate bindi growers birdwood estate black ridge blackjack vineyards bleasdale vineyards bloodwood estate pyrenees estate vineyard boneo plains boston wines botobolar evans family evans eyton-on-yarra fairhall downs estate farrell's limestone creek fergusson fermoy estate estate fishburn o'keefe forrest estate creek wines foxes island wines framingham frankland estate fraser vineyard freycinet fyffe field galafrey galah garden gully vineyards gembrook geoff merrill geoff weaver giaconda gibbston valley giesen estate karina vineyard katnook estate killerby knappstein wines knight granite hills koppamurra kyeema estate breeze wines lake's folly lalla gully vineyard leasingham leconfield leeuwin estate lenswood vineyards madew wines maglieri ridge estate majella malcolm creek margrain vineyard marienberg mariners maritime estate marribrook marsh estate martinborough vineyard marybrook estate massoni creek matariki wines matawhero wines matilda's meadow matua valley maxwell wines mcalister vineyards mcdonald winery mcguigan brothers mcwilliam's mcwilliam's mount pleasant meadowbank wines meerea merlen wines merricks estate merrivale wines mildara coonawarra millinup estate mills winery millton vineyard mintaro wines miramar miranda miranda rovalley estate mission estate winery petaluma peter lehmann peter rumball wines peterson house petersons ields pierro pikes pipers brook vineyard pirramimma pizzini plantagenet plunkett ponder estate phillip estate preston primo estate providence vineyards punters corner quelltaler ravenswood vineyard estate redman drayton wines reynell reynolds yarraman ribbon estate richard hamilton richmond grove rimfire vineyards rippon vineyard rivendell riverina wines riverside wines robinsons family vineyards rochford rocklea vineyard rongopai wines rosemount estate hunter valley rosemount estate mclaren rossetto tyrrell's vasse felix vavasour wines vidal estate estate voyager estate wairau river wines walker estate walnut ridge wandin valley estate waninga wantirna estate warramate warrenmang vineyard water wheel wellington wendouree westend wignalls wines wilderness estate wildwood taylor wines wilson vineyard winstead wirilda creek wirra wirra wither hills vineyards blass woodstock woody wyndham estate wynns coonawarra estate xanadu wines yaldara yalumba yarra yarra yarra ridge yarra yarra yarra yering yarrabank yering station yeringberg estate gilbert gillan wines gladstone vineyard glenara wines glenayr glenmark wines gloucester ridge vineyard golders vineyard goldwater estate goona warra vineyard winery happs hardys hardys padthaway harewood estate haselgrove heemskerk heggies vineyard helm's henschke hillstowe hollick houghton howard hunter's wines huntington estate ingoldby jackson estate barry wines karina vineyard katnook estate killerby knappstein wines knight granite hills koppamurra kyeema estate breeze wines lake's folly lalla gully vineyard laurel lawsons hills leasingham leconfield leeuwin estate lenswood vineyards mitchell mitchelton monichino wines montana wines montrose moondah brook moorilla estate moorooduc estate morningside wines mornington vineyards morris morton estate brothers mount avoca vineyard mount beckworth mount gisborne wines mount helen mount horrocks mount hurtle mount mount langi ghiran vineyards mount mount prior vineyard mount riley mountadam mountford moutere hills vineyard estate palmara palmers paracombe wines paringa estate parker coonawarra estate passing clouds pattersons conti pegasus penfolds penley estate pepper goundrey gralyn cellars grant burge greenhough vineyard grosset grove estate hamelin hanging winery hanson happs hardys hardys padthaway harewood estate harrier vineyard haselgrove ariki wines hawkesbridge wines hawley vineyard hayward's whitehead creek heemskerk heggies vineyard helm's henschke heritage wines hermitage wines herons flight hickinbotham highbank highfield estate highland heritage estate hill-smith estate hillstowe hollick rothers honeytree estate hotham valley estate houghton howard hamilton hungerford hunter ridge hunter's wines huntington estate huthlee estate 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